Lonely Planet’s Experience guides
are not your traditional guidebooks.

We’ve done away with pages of
listings, opening hours and phone
numbers that are better checked
online. Inside this book is a curated
collection of unforgettable
experiences, so you can create a
unique trip that suits your interests
and fits your schedule.

On these pages we introduce you
to local experts, surprise you with
things you hadn’t thought of and
offer fresh perspectives on the
well-known sights.

IRELAND

Isabel Albiston, Brian Barry, Yvonne Gordon, Úna-Minh Kavanagh,
Noelle Kelly, Fionán McGrath, Orla Smith & Neil Arthurs

Discover Gaelic culture and
celebrate ancient Celtic festivals. Follow
in the footsteps of literary greats. Hike
along the coast, splash in the sea and
kayak around peaceful loughs. Take the
scenic route through moody mountains.
Feel exhilarated by soaring sea cliff s,
pristine beaches and the wild Atlantic
Ocean. Spot nesting seabirds and marine
mammals. Sip pints of creamy stout. Feast
on fresh local produce. Tap your feet to
trad music. See the North’s complicated
history refl ected on its painted walls.

This is Ireland.

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Contents

Best Experiences 4

Calendar 22

Trip Builder 30

7 Things to
Know About Ireland 42

Read, Listen,
Watch & Follow 44

Dublin 46

Fair City of
Food & Stout 52

Family Fun
in the Park 56

Revolutionary Dublin 60

Key Players
in a Revolution 62

A Nation Divided 64

Sea Air
Around Dalkey 66

Dublin Bay Wildlife 68

Hiking in Howth 70

Cultural Dublin 72

Listings 74

Wicklow 78

Gardens & Homes 84

The Garden of Ireland 88

Seaside Ventures 90

Wandering Wicklow 92

Listings 96

The Southeast 98

Wexford Beach Life 104

When Spielberg
Stormed Curracloe 108

Family Thrills
in Kilkenny 110

The Game of Hurling 112

Copper Coast
& Mahon 116

Breathtaking
Waterford 118

Listings 120

Cork 122

The Culinary Capital 128

The Wonderful
Wild West 130

Castles &
Stately Homes 134

Islands & Beaches 138

Stroll Through
Cork City 142

Charting the
English Market 144

Listings 146

Kerry 148

Slea Head Drive
Scenery 152

Walking the Camino 156

Beaches & Islands 158

Celebrations of Old 162

Dingle Views
& Bar Pews 164

The Emerald Galaxy 168

Wildlife of Kerry 170

The Dolphin that put
Dingle on the Map 172

Listings 174

Meander
the Shannon 176

West of Ireland 180

Galway Pubs & Reels 186

Cruising the Cliffs 188

Walk the
Rocky Burren 192

Wildlife of the Burren 194

Grace O’Malley:
The Pirate Queen 196

Surf Sessions
in Sligo 198

Listings 200

Festival Fever 204

Ulster 206

Belfast’s
Painted Walls 210

Murals & Street Art 212

Titanic Belfast 214

FEIFEI CUI-PAOLUZZO/GETTY IMAGES ©

Above Waterville, Kerry

Fermanagh’s
Lakelands 216

On Location 220

Heaney’s Homeland 222

Hiking the Causeway 224

Daring Scrambles
& Leaps 226

Wild &
Wonderful Donegal 228

Donegal’s
Favourite Beaches 232

Listings 234

Practicalities 236

Arriving 238

Getting Around 240

Safe Travel 242

Money 243

Responsible Travel 244

Accommodation 246

Essentials 248

Language 250

ESSAYS

A Nation Divided 64

When Spielberg
Stormed Curracloe 108

Charting the
English Market 144

The Emerald Galaxy 168

The Dolphin that put
Dingle on the Map 172

Grace O’Malley:
The Pirate Queen 196

Titanic Belfast 214

On Location 220

VISUAL GUIDES

Key Players
in a Revolution 62

Dublin Bay Wildlife 68

Breathtaking
Waterford 118

Wildlife of Kerry 170

Wildlife of the Burren 194

Murals & Street Art 212

Donegal’s
Favourite Beaches 232

PREVIOUS SPREAD: DAMIENJKENNEDYPHOTOGRAPHY/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

GAELIC

CULTURE

Gaelic culture encompasses the
Irish language, literature, storytelling
and folklore, Irish dancing and trad
music, Gaelic sports, traditional arts and
crafts, and the celebration of ancient
Celtic festivals. In certain areas of the

country, Gaelic culture thrives: locals
regularly speak Irish, pubs buzz with trad
sessions, and hurling and Gaelic football
are part of community life. The best way
to experience Gaelic culture is to visit a
Gaeltacht (Irish-speaking region).

IRISH
LANGUAGE
STATS

The total popu-
lation of the Gael-
tacht is 96,090.

In Ireland 73,803
people speak
Irish daily.

The county
with the highest
percentage of
Irish speakers is
Galway (49%).

→ THE
GAELIC REVIVAL

The 19th-century Gaelic
revival was a resurgence
of interest in the Irish
language, literature,
folklore and sports. A
key proponent was
WB Yeats.

Left Sign indicating a Gaelic-speaking
area, Galway Right Irish poet WB
Yeats Below Camogie match, Cork

FESTIVALS

Ancient Celtic festivals such as Imbolc (the beginning of
spring) are still celebrated across Ireland. Rituals include
mountain pilgrimages, parties and parades.

↑ GAELIC SPORTS

The Gaelic Athletic Association (GAA) promotes Ireland’s
Gaelic games of hurling and Gaelic football, as well as
camogie, handball and rounders.

Best Gaelic Culture
Experiences

► Watch hurling being played
or have a go yourself. (p112)

► Join the festivities at one
of Ireland’s ancient Celtic
celebrations. (p162)

► Hear trad music in Galway’s
pubs. (p186)

► Learn about Gaelic culture in
Dublin’s museums. (p72)

► Visit the Irish-speaking
Gaeltacht of Corca Dhuibhne
(Dingle Peninsula; p153) and
the Donegal Gaeltacht (p229).

EVERETT COLLECTION/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

RIGHT: D. RIBEIRO/SHUTTERSTOCK ©
LEFT: TIM GRAHAM/GETTY IMAGES ©

↘ CRAFT
STOUTS

Blacks Brewery
World’s End

Burren Brewery
Burren Black

Galway Bay
Brewery Buried
at Sea

Lineman Astral
Grains Foreign
Extra Stout

Porterhouse
Around the Clock
Imperial Stout

STOUT OF

ORDER

For many, experiencing Ireland means finding
out for themselves whether Guinness really tastes
better in its native land. While Guinness has become
synonymous with stout, in Ireland Murphy’s and
Beamish also compete for business. It’s no surprise
that stouts are also something of a speciality among
Ireland’s craft brewers.

Best Beer
Experiences

► Search out the
perfect pint in Dub-
lin, where Guinness
is brewed. (p52)

► Order a Murphy’s
with your meal in
Cork. (p128)

► Sample stout on
a Galway pub crawl.
(p186)

► Top off a Dingle
adventure with a pint
of the black stuff.
(p164)

ALEXANDRALAW1977/SHUTTERSTOCK ©,

CONTEMPO-
RARY IRISH
FICTION

Sally Rooney
Conversations
with Friends
(2017)

Colm Tóibín
Brooklyn (2009)

Eimear McBride
A Girl is a Half-
Formed Thing
(2013)

Naoise Dolan
Exciting Times
(2020)

POETS &

SCHOLARS

Listen to Irish people speak and you’ll hear a
distinct rhythm and an often poetic turn of phrase.
Ireland’s strong tradition of storytelling is reflected in
its remarkable literary output, which includes works
by James Joyce, Oscar Wilde, WB Yeats, Samuel Beckett
and Seamus Heaney.

Best Literary
Experiences

► Visit the County
Derry locations that
inspired Seamus
Heaney’s poetry.
(p222)

► Explore Ireland’s
literary connections
in Dublin at the MoLI
and Dublin Writers
Museum. (p72)

► Discover the
isolated beauty of
Kerry’s Great Blas-
ket Island, depicted
in books by three
islanders. (p158)

ARNDALE/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

THRILLS &

SPILLS

What better way to experience
Ireland’s wild beauty than to embrace
the great outdoors? Options for activities
abound. Follow waymarked hiking
trails up mountains, over blanket bog
and along the coast, cycle traffic-free

greenways and mountain bike through
woodland, splash in the ocean, jump on
a surfboard or kayak around Ireland’s
peaceful loughs. Family-friendly fun is
guaranteed.

→ HIKING

The Ireland Way (the
irelandway.ie) is a
1000km walking trail
from County Cork to the
Antrim coast. Further
trails are listed on spor-
tireland.ie/
outdoors and walkni.
com.

Left Surfer, Mullaghmore Right Rope
bridge, Carrick-a-Rede Below Cyclists,
Killarney National Park

SURFING

One of the world’s biggest waves breaks at Mullaghmore
in County Sligo. In 2020, Irish surfer Conor Maguire surfed
towering 18m-high waves here.

↑ CYCLING

The Atlantic Coast Route (atlanticonbike.ie) passes
through some wild and rugged landscapes in the north-
west. Many forest parks have mountain bike trails.

Best Active
Experiences

► Leap off rocks and bob in
wave pools on a Causeway
Coast coasteering session.
(p226)

► Kayak or canoe out to Lough
Erne’s monastic islands.
(p216)

► Hike the beautiful Kerry
Camino. (p156)

► Surf the wild Atlantic waves
off the coast of County Sligo.
(p222)

► Cycle the Waterford
Greenway at the Copper Coast.
(p116)

LAUZ83/GETTY IMAGES ©

RIGHT: GABRIEL12/SHUTTERSTOCK ©
LEFT: IANMITCHINSON/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

ONES TO
WATCH

Red deer Roam
the hillsides of
the Wicklow
Mountains and
Glenveagh
National Park.

Dolphins,
porpoises and
whales Can be
spotted off the
coast.

Puffins Nest
in colonies on
coastal cliffs.

Breeding
seabirds
Include gannets,
kittiwakes and
fulmars.

WILDLIFE

WONDERS

Ireland’s land mammals are fairly
low-key; they include hares, hedgehogs
and red deer. When it comes to wildlife
watching, it’s the visiting species that
draw the crowds. Nesting seabirds
include remarkable colonies of puffins,

while Ireland is also a stopover for
migrating birds. Minke whales can be
spotted off the west coast in the summer,
followed by fin whales and humpback
whales later in the year.

→ BIRD SPOTTING

Spring and autumn are
the seasons to spot
migratory birds (mainly
waders and warblers) on
their way to and from the
Arctic, Africa and North
America.

Left Red deer, Glenveagh National
Park Right Razorbill Below Round-
leaved sundew

MARINE MAMMALS

The Irish Whale and Dolphin Group (iwdg.ie) records sight-
ings and campaign for Irish waters to be declared a whale
and dolphin sanctuary.

↑ BOG LIFE

Ireland’s areas of blanket bog – particularly prevalent in
Counties Mayo and Donegal – support a rich diversity of
plant and animal species.

Best Wildlife
Experiences

► Spot whales and dolphins
from Mizen Head in County
Cork. (p130)

► Look out for falcons, golden
eagles and red deer in Glen-
veagh National Park. (p230)

► Admire the abundant
flora and fauna of the Burren.
(p194)

► Observe seabirds at Little
Skellig, the Kerry island that’s
a birdwatching haven. (p158)

► Take a ferry to the Saltees,
where an abundance of sea-
birds nest. (p107)

JAKUB WOJCIECHOWSKI/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

RIGHT: SIMON GRAY/500PX/GETTY IMAGES ©
LEFT: DVLCOM/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

IRELAND’S
NATIONAL
PARKS

Ballycroy
County Mayo

The Burren
County Clare

Connemara
County Galway

Glenveagh
County Donegal

Killarney
County Kerry

Wicklow
Mountains
County Wicklow

THE SCENIC

ROUTE

The Irish landscape can be both
brooding and breathtakingly beautiful.
The country’s spectacular coastline gets
the most attention, but Ireland’s moody
mountains, rolling green pastures and
atmospheric loughs and rivers are

evocative in their own way. Changeable
weather adds to the allure: low-lying
mists and pretty sunsets bring a touch of
romance.

→ DARK SKIES

Ballycroy National Park
is a designated Dark Sky
Park (mayodarkskypark.ie).
From the visitor centre,
a boardwalk leads to a
viewpoint for spectacu-
lar stargazing.

Left Wicklow Mountains Right
Ballycroy National Park Below Ring
of Kerry

INLAND WATERWAYS

Taking a slow trip along Ireland’s rivers and waterways
allows the beauty of the country’s varied landscapes to
seep in.

↑ DRIVING

Negotiating winding rural roads through wild terrain while
dodging sheep is all part of the experience. Ireland’s
signed coastal driving routes are simply spectacular.

Best Scenic
Experiences

► Meander down the River
Shannon in a boat. (p176)

► Admire Wicklow’s elegant
gardens and historic homes.
(p84)

► Experience County Done-
gal’s brooding mountains and
wild terrain. (p228)

► Paddle the waterways
of Lough Erne in County
Fermanagh. (p216)

► Walk through forests, up
mountains and around loughs
in County Wicklow. (p92)

GARETH MCCORMACK/ALAMY STOCK PHOTO ©

RIGHT: GREENS AND BLUES/SHUTTERSTOCK ©
LEFT: BENCEMOR/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

ICONIC

CLIFFS &
BEACHES

Ireland has one of the world’s
most stunning shorelines. Rugged
cliffs are interspaced with secluded
coves and sandy bays that are perfect
for surfing. Vibrant green grass and
wildflowers grow right up to the cliff
edge, where sure-footed sheep graze
perilously above crashing waves. On
the western coast, the Wild Atlantic
Way is a signed driving route from
Kinsale to Derry.

Coastal Donegal

Cliffs and beaches

The Sliabh Liag cliffs are
among Europe’s highest. See
them from the water on a
guided boat trip, or brave the
narrow One Man’s Path along
the top. Nearby are some
of Ireland’s most beautiful
beaches. ► p232

50-minute drive from
Donegal town to Sliabh Liag

Cliffs of Moher

Soaring sea cliffs

On the coast of County Clare,
these magnificent cliffs stretch
for 8km. Join the crowds who
come to gawp in wonder. The
best views are on the trail from
Hag’s Head, or from a boat.
► p188

40-minute drive from Ennis

Dingle Peninsula

Secluded sandy coves

Jutting into the wild Atlantic
Ocean at mainland Ireland’s
most westerly point, the Dingle
Peninsula offers craggy cliffs,
surf-pounded rocks and pretty
beaches. Take a hike at Dunmore
Head for spectacular views over
the Blasket Islands. ► p164

50-minute drive from Tralee
to Dingle town

Beara Peninsula

Wild and unspoilt headland

County Cork’s beguilingly
rugged headland is quieter
than the often crowded Ring of
Kerry. For breathtaking views,
take the Healy Pass across the
Caha Mountains, then stop for
a swim at Ballydonegan beach.
► p130

2½-hour drive from Cork
city to Ballydonegan beach

D. RIBEIRO/SHUTTERSTOCK ©, MICHAEL THALER/SHUTTERSTOCK ©,
JOE DANIEL PRICE/GETTY IMAGES ©

Giant’s Causeway

Dramatic hexagonal
columns

The north Antrim coast is
famous for the unusual basalt
rock formations of the Giant’s
Causeway, one of Ireland’s
most atmospheric landscape
features and a Unesco World
Heritage Site. Don’t miss the
neighbouring beaches and
wild-flower-strewn clifftops.
► p224

1½-hour drive from
Belfast

Wexford Beaches

Family-friendly strands

Bucket-and-spade beaches
line the coast of County
Wexford. Take a walk along
the seemingly endless white
sands of Curracloe Beach,
then stop for an ice cream.
Stand-up paddleboarding and
kitesurfing are also popular
here.
► p104

Two-hour drive from Dublin

IRISH
SPECIALITIES

Boxty Starchy
potato cake from
Ulster.

Seafood
chowder Rich,
creamy broth
filled with the
flavours of the
sea.

Guinness bread
Malty loaf made
with the black
stuff.

Irish stew
Comforting bowl
of meat and
potatoes.

MODERN IRISH

GRUB

Ireland’s thriving culinary scene
is closely linked to the quality of its
local produce. Swathes of lush farming
country produce a bounty of meats and
cheeses, while fresh seafood is available
from the surrounding ocean. From

gourmet sandwiches and takeaway
fish-and-chips to Michelin-starred fine
dining, Ireland has some excellent
restaurants at all price points.

→ BALLYMALOE
HOUSE

Since the 1960s, this
restaurant and cookery
school in Cork has
been at the forefront
of Ireland’s local food
movement. (p129)

Left Seafood chowder Right Jams
from Ballymaloe Cooking School
Below Cashel Blue cheese

MARKETS

Buy direct from producers at food-led markets such as St
George’s Market in Belfast and the weekend markets in
Dublin’s suburbs.

↑ LOCAL PRODUCE

Local cheeses include Cashel Blue, Corleggy and Gub-
been. In Ulster, try Armagh apples, Comber potatoes and
Lough Neagh eel (if you’re brave enough).

Best Food Experiences

► Dine out in Kinsale, Ireland’s
culinary capital. (p128)

► Feast on the fruit of the land
in Wicklow. (p98)

► Take your pick of options
from fine-dining restaurants to
food trucks in Dublin. (p52)

► Shop for local produce at
the English Market in Cork.
(p144)

OLIVER STREWE/GETTY IMAGES ©

RIGHT: STEPHEN BARNES/SHUTTERSTOCK ©
LEFT: FREESKYLINE/GETTY IMAGES ©

TRAD PLAYLIST

Old Hag You
Have Killed Me
The Bothy Band

Star of
County Down
The Chieftains

Dónal na Gréine
Gráinne Holland

The Wren’s Nest
De Dannan

Whiskey in
the Jar
The Dubliners

PINTS & TRAD

SESSIONS

Catching a trad session in an Irish
pub is an experience that will long linger
in your senses. From foot-tapping reels
to evocative ballads, trad music creates
an atmospheric soundtrack to a night

out. Skilled musicians can be heard at
even the most casual of venues; spend
enough time there and you might even
find yourself joining in.

→TRAD
INSTRUMENTS

The uillean pipes (Irish
bagpipes) are played by
squeezing bellows under
the elbow. Pub sessions
usually feature fiddles,
flutes, tin whistles, accor-
dions and bouzoukis.

Left Trad music session, Galway Right
Tin whistle Below Bodhrán

TRAD RHYTHMS

Trad music includes jigs, reels and hornpipes (which
sound similar but have different timings), polkas and slow
airs or ballads.

↑ BEAT OF THE BODHRáN

Trad music is often accompanied by a bodhrán, a tradi-
tional Irish drum made with goatskin stretched over a
wooden frame.

Best Music Experiences

► Join in the dancing at trad
sessions on Donegal’s Tory
Island. (p228)

► Hear some of the country’s
best trad musicians in Galway.
(p186)

► Tap your feet to the beat in
Dingle’s pubs. (p164)

► Whet your whistle and hear
some reels on a Dublin pub
crawl. (p52)

TOPNAT/GETTY IMAGES ©

RIGHT: ROBIN MACGREGOR/SHUTTERSTOCK ©
LEFT: KEITH CORCORAN/ALAMY STOCK PHOTO ©

MURALS & NEW

BEGINNINGS

Ireland’s turbulent history is
explored in some excellent museums
across the country, and provides the
context for the art on display in Irish
galleries and castles. In the North,
echoes of past conflicts and current

tensions are reflected in political
murals. These days, Ireland’s artistic
output reflects its increasingly diverse
population, and Belfast’s vibrant street
art scene is rooted in a non-sectarian
celebration of place.

→ REVOLUTION

Dublin is the best place
to learn about Ireland’s
revolutionary move-
ments. It’s where the
most significant events
took place in the fight for
independence.

Left Mural by the artist ’Smug One’,
Belfast Right GPO building, Dublin
Below Artist and musician Patsy Dan
Mac Ruaíri (Rodgers), Tory Island

MURAL THEMES

Murals often depict themes connected to identity. Look
for references to Celtic mythology in Republican murals
and to Belfast’s industrial past in Unionist murals.

↑ TORY ISLAND NAIVE ART

This remote island in County Donegal is known for its
distinctive school of self-taught painters, whose work has
been exhibited worldwide.

Best Cultural
Experiences

► Check out political murals
and creative street art in
Belfast. (p210)

► Immerse yourself in art at
Dublin’s National Museum of
Ireland – Decorative Arts and
History. (p72)

► Learn about Ireland’s revolu-
tionary movements at the GPO
Museum in Dublin. (p60)

► Take in the striking murals
of the People’s Gallery in
Derry. (p212)

JOHN W BANAGAN/GETTY IMAGES ©

RIGHT: RICHARD WAYMAN/ALAMY STOCK PHOTO ©
LEFT: CHARLES MCQUILLAN/GETTY IMAGES ©

↓ Kilkenny Festivals

The Cat Laughs Comedy
Festival in June attracts the
country’s top comedians; the
August Arts Festival is one of
Ireland’s best.

► p204

Schools are closed in
July and August. Sea-
side towns and resorts
are busy as families
head to the coast.

Avoid Northern Ireland during
the Orange Order marches
of 12 July (a public holiday),
when tensions run high.

↑ Galway
International
Arts Festival

Held in the last two
weeks of July, Ireland’s
most important arts
festival features music,
drama and more.

► giaf.ie

JUNE

Average daytime max: 18°C
Days of rainfall: 10

JULY

Ireland in

SUMMER

PANASPICS/SHUTTERSTOCK ©, NURPHOTO/NURPHOTO VIA GETTY IMAGES ©,
DAVID FITZGERALD/SPORTSFILE VIA GETTY IMAGES ©,PIARAS Ó MíDHEACH/
SPORTSFILE VIA GETTY IMAGES ©, MICA STOCK/SHUTTERSTOCK ©,
YOUNGGOGO/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

↓ All-Ireland Finals

Late summer sees the finals
of the hurling and Gaelic
football championships at
Dublin’s Croke Park.

► p112

↑ Galway Races

This summer festival is
not just about the horses,
it’s also about the food,
fashion and elaborate
hats.

► Galway

► p204

AUGUST

Average daytime max: 20°C
Days of rainfall: 11

Average daytime max: 19°C
Days of rainfall: 12

Demand for accommodation
peaks during July and August.
Book tours and overnight
adventures in advance at
lonelyplanet.com/ireland/
activities..

Packing Notes

Sandals for warm
weather; trainers, a
sweater and a jacket
for rainy days.

← Puck Fair

This ancient three-day
festival takes place in
August and involves the
crowning of a goat king.

► Killorglin

► p162

Check out the
full calendar of
events

Though it’s always unpredictable,
September can be a good time to
glimpse the Northern Lights from
County Donegal.

↓ Cork Jazz Festival

The musicians spill out onto
the streets at Cork’s annual
jazz festival, held in late
October.

► p204

← Electric Picnic

Held in early September,
this three-day arts and
music festival features
an eclectic mix of inter-
national acts.

► Stradbally Hall,
County Laois

► p204

Forage for wild blackberries and
feast on local seasonal produce
including mushrooms, oysters
and Armagh apples.

SEPTEMBER

Average daytime max: 17°C
Days of rainfall: 10

OCTOBER

Ireland in

AUTUMN

KIERAN FROST/REDFERNS VIA GETTY IMAGES ©, YE CHOH WAH/SHUTTERSTOCK
©, BENKRUT/GETTY IMAGES ©, CHARLES MCQUILLAN/GETTY IMAGES ©,
MIKROMAN6/GETTY IMAGES ©

October is prime leaf-peeping time,
when many trees in parks and
forests turn vivid shades of red,
yellow and orange.

↓ Derry Halloween

This annual extravaganza
attracts visitors from
across the globe. Events
include a carnival parade
and live music.

► derryhalloween.com

↑ Belfast International Arts Festival

Held in October, this huge arts festival
encompasses everything from visual
arts to dance.

► belfastinternationalartsfestival.com

NOVEMBER

Average daytime max: 14°C
Days of rainfall: 12

Average daytime max: 10°C
Days of rainfall: 12

Autumn is the best time for
whale watching on the west
coast. Look out for Minke,
fin whales and humpbacks.

Packing Notes

A waterproof jacket
and a backpack to
carry extra layers in
changeable weather.

Christmas dominates December:
shops are busy, while pubs and
restaurants host office holiday
parties. On 25 December shops
and businesses close.

↓ Christmas Markets

Festive Christmas markets are
held in Belfast, Galway and Cork.

← Winterval

Ireland’s biggest
Christmas festival features
a Santa’s grotto, carnival
games, and craft and food
market stalls.

► Waterford

► winterval.ie

Falling on or around
21 December, the winter
solstice is the shortest day of
the year, with less than eight
hours of sunlight.

DECEMBER

Average daytime max: 9°C
Days of rainfall: 13

JANUARY

Ireland in

WINTER

APRILANTE/SHUTTERSTOCK ©, ORIETTA GASPARI/GETTY IMAGES ©,
ANTON_IVANOV/SHUTTERSTOCK ©, JU_SEE/SHUTTERSTOCK ©, INVIZBK/
GETTY IMAGES ©, SARA WINTER/SHUTTERSTOCK ©, R-MAC PHOTOGRAPHY/
SHUTTERSTOCK ©

↓ Cultural Dublin

The winter months are
a good time to explore
Dublin’s museums and
galleries, out of the cold.

► p72

↓ Galway’s Pubs

Ireland’s pubs are cosi-
est in the wintertime,
when short chilly days
tempt you inside to sit
by the fire.

► p186

↑ Imbolc

Also called
St Brigid’s Day,
1 February marks
the beginning of
spring; festivities
involve processions
and straw hats.

► Killorglin

► p162

FEBRUARY

Average daytime max: 8°C
Days of rainfall: 13

Average daytime max: 8°C
Days of rainfall: 10

← Causeway Coast

Winter is a quieter time
to visit popular places
such as the Giant’s
Causeway in County
Antrim.

► p224

Packing Notes

A winter coat, woolly
hat, scarf, gloves,
warm socks and
waterproof boots.

← St Patrick’s Day

On 17 March Ireland celebrates
St Patrick’s Day with parades
and events across the country.
The biggest celebrations are in
Dublin.

► stpatricksday.ie

The puffin breeding season
usually starts in late March.
From then until July or August,
look out for puffins around
Ireland’s craggy coastline.

Hedgerows and hillsides turn
bright yellow as the fragrant
flower of the gorse bush blooms.

Summer festivities begin with
events on the May Bank Holiday
(the first Monday in May).

MARCH

APRIL

Average daytime max: 12°C
Days of rainfall: 11

Ireland in

SPRING

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DEREK WILSON/ALAMY STOCK PHOTO ©, MAYDAYS/GETTY IMAGES ©, MARTIN
FOWLER/SHUTTERSTOCK ©, MIKROMAN6/GETTY IMAGES ©

→ May the 4th Festival

Kerry’s connection to Star Wars
is celebrated with recitals of the
score and Irish dancing.

► Baile an Fheirtéaraigh
(Ballyferriter)

► p168

↓ North West 200

This huge motorcycle
racing event takes place
in May in the triangle
between Portrush,
Portstewart and Coleraine
on the Causeway Coast.

► northwest200.org

→ Kerry Camino

Join the annual group
walk of the Kerry
Camino on the holiday
weekend in early May.

► Tralee

► p156

MAY

Average daytime max: 15°C
Days of rainfall: 11

Average daytime max: 15°C
Days of rainfall: 11

← The Burren

May is the best time to
see the wild-flowers in
bloom on a walk in the
Burren.

► County Clare

► p192

Packing Notes

Trainers, light layers,
a scarf, a waterproof
jacket and sunglasses
for bright days.

AROUND
DUBLIN

Trip Builder

TAKE YOUR PICK OF MUST-SEES
AND HIDDEN GEMS

Ireland’s capital city offers
world-class dining, culture and
nightlife. But within an hour’s
drive of the metropolis lie peaceful
mountain passes, brooding loughs
and pretty seaside towns. Pack for a
night out on the town, a mountain
hike and a day at the beach.

Trip Notes

Hub town Dublin

How long Allow a week

Getting around Public transport within
Dublin is excellent, and preferable to
negotiating the city’s traffic and parking
challenges. The DART runs to Bray, Dalkey
and Howth. Buses connect main towns,
but don’t serve all rural areas. It’s easiest
to reach the Wicklow Mountains by car.

Tips Consider basing yourself in Dublin
and visiting the surrounding sights on
day trips.

Dublin

Dine out at the city’s excellent
restaurants and drink in Dub-
lin’s famous pubs. Allow time
to visit museums and galleries.
Stroll the city’s elegant parks.

3-4 days

Blessington Lake

Visit the grand stately home at
Russborough House & Park-
lands, which has views over the
picturesque Blessington Lake.

½ day

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Howth

Stroll along the cliff
path to the lighthouse,
check out the castle,
wander around the
harbour and feast on
fresh seafood.

½ day

Dalkey

Take a day trip to the
heritage town of Dalkey.
Walking trails, refreshing
sea breezes, castle ruins
and forest parks await.

½ day

Bray

Admire the gardens, views
and waterfall at Powerscourt
Estate. The nearby town of
Bray is the starting point of
the Bray Head coastal walk.

½ day

Wicklow Mountains

Climb mountains, hike
through forests and
glens, and marvel at
Glenmacnass Waterfall.
Nearby is the monastic
site at Glendalough, one of
Ireland’s most well-known
attractions.

1-2 days

COASTAL
SOUTH-
WEST

Trip Builder

TAKE YOUR PICK OF MUST-SEES
AND HIDDEN GEMS

Surf breaks, hiking trails, trad
pubs, wonderful wildlife, medieval
castles, Ireland’s best restaurants and
simply spectacular scenery: a trip to
the coastlines of Counties Kerry and
Cork has it all. Keep your camera
handy.

Trip Notes

Hub towns Tralee, Cork

How long Around a week

Getting around The best way to
experience the peninsula driving loops
is behind the wheel. Public transport to
remote areas is limited. Take boat tours to
the islands.

Tips Boat trips to the Skelligs only
operate mid-May to September, weather
permitting. Numbers of visitors are limited
so book well in advance.

Valentia Island

Cross the bridge to beautiful
Valentia Island. Hike the loop
walk at Bray Head or climb
Geokaun Mountain for views
of the surrounding islands.

1 day

Skellig Islands

Take a boat trip to the re-
mote monastery on Skellig
Michael, featured as Luke
Skywalker’s Jedi temple
in Star Wars, and spot
gannets on Little Skellig.

1 day

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Dingle Peninsula

Drive around Slea Head, surf
or catch the sunset at the
Maharees and relax in Dingle’s
pubs. Allow three days to hike
the Kerry Camino.

2-3 days

Beara Peninsula

Drive over Healy Pass and
clock the jaw-dropping views.
Stop at beaches and pretty
villages, and at the end of the
peninsula take the cable car to
Dursey Island.

1 day

Cork

Stroll around the city, sample
restaurants and visit the
English Market. Take day trips
to Cork’s medieval castles,
country houses and beaches.

2-3 days

Mizen Head Peninsula

Get off the beaten track in
Cork’s wild west. Visit ancient
stone circles and take a detour
to the remote Sheep’s Head
Peninsula.

1 day

THE
NORTH

Trip Builder

TAKE YOUR PICK OF MUST-SEES
AND HIDDEN GEMS

Head north for a mix of vibrant
cities and peaceful backwaters. This
trip promises opportunities to hike,
cycle and kayak your way through
varied scenery, with chances to better
understand local history and feast on
good food along the way.

Trip Notes

Hub towns Belfast, Derry

How long Around 10 days

Getting around Hire a car in Belfast.
Alternatively, buses link main towns.
Cycling is an excellent option: National
Cycle Route 93 connects Belfast and
Derry; the Inishowen 100 is a 100-mile
(160km) cycle around the peninsula; the
Kingfisher Trail passes Lough Erne.

Tips The 120-mile (193km) Causeway
Coastal Route is a signed driving tour from
Belfast to Derry.

Glenveagh National Park

Wonder at the beauty of
brooding mountains and
loughs. Hike or cycle through
an unspoilt landscape. Spot
wildlife and take a tour of
Glenveagh Castle.

1 day

Lough Erne

Canoe or kayak out to the
monastic islands of Lower
Lough Erne. Explore the
quieter waters of Upper Lough
Erne. Visit the island town of
Enniskillen.

1-2 days

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Inishowen Peninsula

Feel the sea spray at
Malin Head, Ireland’s
most northerly point. Visit
castles and hidden coves.
Savour the peacefulness
and look out for rare birds.

1-2 days

Giant’s Causeway

Allow time to visit the
Causeway and nearby
sights; hiking is a great
way to explore. Marvel
at castle ruins and sip
Bushmills whiskey.

1-2 days

North Antrim Coast

Explore the cliffs and
beaches of the Antrim
coast and stop at Game of
Thrones filming locations.
Take a detour through the
beautiful Antrim Glens.

1-2 days

Derry

Walk the city walls and see the
People’s Gallery murals. Visit
the city’s excellent museums.
Dine out on local seafood and
craft beer.

1 day

Belfast

Make the most of Belfast’s
restaurants and nightlife, and
check out the city’s museums
and Titanic-related sights. The
city makes a good base for
day trips.

2-3 days

SUNNY
SOUTH-
EAST

Trip Builder

TAKE YOUR PICK OF MUST-SEES
AND HIDDEN GEMS

A trip to Ireland’s Southeast
might involve surfing, sea kayaking,
cycling and walking – or simply
relaxing with an ice cream on one of
the sandy beaches along the coasts
of Counties Wexford and Waterford.
In the rolling hills of neighbouring
Kilkenny are a number of family-
friendly attractions.

Trip Notes

Hub towns Kilkenny, Wexford, Waterford

How long Around 4 or 5 days

Getting around Trains connect Wexford
town, Waterford city and Kilkenny city with
Dublin. Cycling is popular in the region. A
car is the easiest option.

Tips The Passage East Ferry from
Ballyhack to Passage East saves a long
detour – handy if travelling along the
coast between Wexford and Waterford by
bike or car.

Waterford

Gawp at waterfalls, splash
in the sea and stroll down
sandy beaches on the
Waterford coast. Cycling
the Waterford Greenway is
a fun excursion.

1 day

Copper Coast

Explore the vivid land-
scapes of the Copper
Coast Geopark. Allow time
to discover the area’s
hidden coves and beaches.
Pick up trail cards for
self-guided walks.

1 day

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Kilkenny

Catch a game of hurling
in Kilkenny city, home of
the Cats. Take the family
to Castlecomer Discovery
Park and other local
attractions.

1 day

Wexford Beaches

Feel the sand between
your toes on Wexford’s
beaches. In sunny weather
allocate extra time for
lazing on the dunes and
eating ice cream.

1-2 days

Hook Head

Join a sunset kayaking trip
and keep a look out for seals
and dolphins. The drive from
Fethard-on-Sea to Hook Head
passes ruined castles, seclud-
ed bays and a lighthouse.

½ day

Saltee Islands

Take a ferry to the uninhabited
Saltee Islands to see seals
and spot puffins and other
seabirds.

½ day

WILD
WEST
COAST

Trip Builder

TAKE YOUR PICK OF MUST-SEES
AND HIDDEN GEMS

Ireland’s northwest offers
unspoilt natural beauty: wild and
remote headlands where winding
coastal paths look out over jagged
cliffs, lonely lighthouses and long
sandy bays. Gaelic culture thrives in
the Irish-speaking regions, where trad
music sessions take place most nights.

Trip Notes

Hub towns Galway, Sligo

How long Around a week

Getting around Hiring a car is the best
option since public transport doesn’t
serve the most remote areas. Tory Island
and Clare Island are reached by ferry.

Tips The Wild Atlantic Way
(wildatlanticway.com) coastal driving
route traverses Ireland’s west coast. The
signage is helpful but the route can be
congested; if possible avoid the busy
summer months.

Tory Island

Walk the island’s rugged
coastline and spot puffins on
the cliffs. Stay on the island
overnight to join in the danc-
ing at a trad session.

1-2 days

Clare Island

Follow in the footsteps of
Ireland’s pirate queen Grace
O’Malley and look for her
family motto at Clare Island
Abbey. Back on the mainland,
climb Croagh Patrick.

1 day

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Donegal Beaches

Relax on the sand, splash in
the sea or go surfing. Refuel
at the restaurants and bars in
Dunfanaghy, a good base for
exploring the coast.

1-2 days

Sliabh Liag

Hike over the cliff top or view
the sea cliffs from the water on
a boat trip. Explore the nearby
headlands and bays.

1 day

Fanad & Rosguill Pen-
insulas

Loop around Fanad
Peninsula then take the
bridge over to the Rosguill
Peninsula for more stun-
ning driving (or cycling)
past rocky headlands and
beaches.

1 day

Sligo Coast

Ride beginner breaks at
Enniscrone or join the
big-wave surfers at Mul-
laghmore. Get back in the
water for a sea-kayaking
session.

1 day

Galway

Hear some of Ireland’s best
musicians playing trad music
in Galway’s pubs and sample
fresh oysters from Galway Bay.
Take day trips to Connemara
and around.

2 days

WATER-
WAY TO
THE WEST

Trip Builder

TAKE YOUR PICK OF MUST-SEES
AND HIDDEN GEMS

The River Shannon waterway
offers a peaceful, slow-paced trip
through the rolling landscapes of
inland Ireland. Where the river meets
the Atlantic, the scenery is dramatic:
raggedly beautiful Loop Head, the
vertical Cliffs of Moher and the
mesmerising landscapes of the Burren.

Trip Notes

Hub towns Carrick-on-Shannon, Limerick

How long Around a week

Getting around Follow the path of the
River Shannon by car, bike or boat.
Carrick-on-Shannon is a good place to
begin boat trips since it has convenient
public transport links.

Tips Hire a liveaboard motor cruiser for a
holiday on the River Shannon. No licence
is required; the boats travel very slowly
(most have a maximum speed of 10 to 15
knots).

Cliffs of Moher

Walk along the coast to ex-
perience the breathtaking
beauty of these vertical
sea cliffs, or view them
from a boat. Catch a trad
session at a Doolin pub.

½ day

Loop Head

Taste salt on the breeze
as the Shannon meets the
Atlantic. Photo ops abound
at this spectacular spot;
get your camera out at the
Kilkee Cliffs and Bridges
of Ross.

1 day

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Lough Ree

Splash with the family at
an inflatable water park
and look out for migratory
birds, including whooper
swans and curlews.

1 day

The Burren

Hike through a remarkable
landscape of barren grey
limestone in the Burren.
The area’s ancient sites,
wildlife and starkly
beautiful scenery can be
explored via numerous
walking trails.

1-2 days

Lough Derg

Visit the monastic settle-
ment at Inis Cealtra by boat
to see high crosses, a round
tower and several church-
es. History buffs will enjoy
the sights of picturesque
Killaloe.

1 day

Foynes

Stop at the village of
Foynes to learn about
its connection to the first
commercial transatlantic
passenger flight.

½ day

7

Things to Know About

IRELAND

INSIDER TIPS TO HIT THE GROUND RUNNING

1  The
Gaeltacht

Gaeltachtaí are
regions where
Irish (Gaeilge)
is the primary
spoken language.
They include
large areas
of Counties

Donegal, Mayo, Galway and Kerry and parts of Counties
Cork, Meath and Waterford. Here you are likely to hear
Irish being spoken among locals, although everyone will be
able to speak English, too. In the summer, several places in
Gaeltachtaí offer Irish language courses for all levels.

2 Making
Conversation

Irish people are
generally friendly but
often reserved, and
tend to avoid topics
that might cause
embarrassment.
Don’t be too direct
too soon, especially
if discussing politics,
which can be a touchy
subject. Humour is the
exception: ribbing can
get quite personal but
it’s usually not meant to
offend. The Irish sense
of humour can be quite
dark, and few topics are
off limits when it comes
to making a joke.

3 Time for Tea

Tea is the unofficial
national drink and many Irish
people drink several cups
a day. Expect to be offered
a cuppa upon entering
someone’s home. Biscuits
will be provided for dunking.

4 Eat Early

Restaurants tend
to close much earlier than
elsewhere in Europe. In rural
areas kitchens may shut as
early as 8pm; plan ahead.

See more about Irish
cuisine on p16

5 Expect Rain

Ireland’s climate is
generally mild and change-
able. Rain is a possibility
almost every day of the
year – but so is sunshine.
Bring a raincoat (umbrellas
aren’t much help in the wind)
and wear layers you can take
off when the sun comes out.
Sometimes it snows for a
few days in winter, but not
always.

See more about the
seasons on p22

6 Local
Lingo

Banjaxed Broken beyond repair or very drunk.

Bold Naughty; usually used with children (‘don’t be
bold’).

Craic Fun. Can be used in a greeting (‘what’s the craic?’),
to describe a good time (‘great craic’) or for someone fun
to hang out with (’she’s good craic’).

Dander Walk (‘let’s take a dander to the shops’).

Eejit An idiot or fool. Often used affectionately (‘you big
eejit’).

Gas Funny; can be used to describe a person or situation.

Grand Great, good or fine (‘you’re grand’).

Lash Many uses, including to go out drinking (‘out on the
lash’) or for rain (‘it’s lashing down’).

Quare Used for emphasis (‘there’s a quare wind
blowing’).

Yoke Any nearby object.

Many Irish people swear a lot so be prepared to hear
some colourful language. Curse words can be part of
everyday speech and are not necessarily intended to be
insulting or cause offence.

See the Language chapter on p250

7 Pub Culture

Pubs are where people in Ireland
gather to share stories and drink pints.
It’s usual for friends to take turns to buy
a round of drinks for the whole group.
Local musicians often gather for informal
trad sessions, which usually take place at
a pub table.

See more about pints and trad
sessions on p18

Read, Listen,
Watch & Follow

READ

Milkman
(Anna Burns; 2018)
A darkly funny
perspective on life
during the Troubles.

Don’t Touch My
Hair (Emma Dabiri;
2019) Dabiri uses
hair to examine
slavery, colonisation
and cultural
appropriation.

Angela’s Ashes
(Frank McCourt;
1996) A bleak story
of poverty-stricken
childhood in
Limerick.

The Sea
(John Banville;
2005) An engrossing
meditation on grief
and memory, set in
Wexford.

LISTEN

Go Bravely
(Denise Chaila;
2020) Thought-pro-
voking hip-hop by
a Zambian-Irish
rapper, poet and
singer.

First Prize Bravery
(Sorcha Richard-
son; 2019) Poppy,
breezy folk music by
an up-and-coming
singer-songwriter
from Dublin.

A Hero’s Death
(Fontaines DC; 2020;
pictured right) The
Dublin post-punk
band’s follow-up
to their hit album
Dogrel has the same
sense of urgency and
rage.

Irish History
Podcast
Fin Dwyer’s podcast
covers everything
from the Norman
Invasion to the Great
Famine.

The Blindboy Podcast
Hosted by Blindboy of comedy hip-hip duo
the Rubberbandits, with interviews, short
fiction and comedy.

DAVID WOLFF - PATRICK/GETTY IMAGES ©,

WATCH

Normal People (2020) TV series based on
Sally Rooney’s 2018 novel, set in Sligo and
Dublin.

Derry Girls (2018–present) Derry
schoolgirls are the stars of this TV comedy
set in the 1990s.

Wolfwalkers (2020) The third animation
in Kilkenny-based Cartoon Saloon’s Irish
folklore trilogy.

Good Vibrations (2013) The story of
record-label owner Terri Hooley and
Belfast’s punk rock scene.

Michael Collins (1996) Liam Neeson stars
in Neil Jordan’s Oscar-winning biopic.

FOLLOW

@Ireland

Curated by a new
person each week
on Twitter.

The Taste

(thetaste.ie)
Food, drink and
travel, including
reviews.

The Life of Stuff

(thelifeofstuff.
com) Irish travel,
culture and
lifestyle blog.

@DiscoverIreland

Photos and
tourism news on
Twitter.

@Chrishillphotographer

Inspiring
Instagram
account.

Sate your Ireland
dreaming with a
virtual vacation

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TRADEMARK OF CARTOON SALOON/MELUSINE. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED.

BOTTOM: GETTY IMAGES/HANDOUT ©

DUBLIN

CULTURE | HISTORY | COAST

Experience
Dublin
online

► Fair City of Food &
Stout (p52)

► Family Fun in
the Park (p56)

► Revolutionary
Dublin (p60)

► Key players in a
Revolution (p62)

► A Nation
Divided (p64)

► Sea Air Around
Dalkey (p66)

► Dublin Bay
Wildlife (p68)

► Hiking in Howth (p70)

► Cultural Dublin (p72)

► Listings (p74)

Bonus Online Experiences

► The Sound of Dublin

► Dublin Spectres and
Spirits

pawel.gaul/Getty Images ©

Look for the herd of deer and
soak up nature in Phoenix
Park (p56)

2 hr

Learn about Dublin’s
revolutionary history at the
GPO Museum (p60)

1½ hr

Travel through 300
years of history at
14 Henrietta Street
house museum (p73)

2 hr

View rare books and manuscripts
at the Chester Beatty library
museum (p72)

2 hr

Admire international
art and emerging
Irish artists at the
RHA Gallery (p73)

2 hr

DUBLIN

Trip Builder

Explore the city on foot, dipping into
museums, galleries, old pubs or live performances,
or pack a picnic and take a day trip out of the city
for some coastal walks and sea air, perhaps spotting
some wildlife along the way.

Explore bookable
experiences in
Dublin online

DAWID K PHOTOGRAPHY/SHUTTERSTOCK ©,
DERICK HUDSON/GETTY IMAGES ©,
JAKE BURNS PHOTOGRAPHY/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Spy seals, Irish hares and
seabirds at North Bull
Island (p68)

½ day

Try a pint of Guinness at
Mulligan’s of Poolbeg St
(p55)

1 hr

Walk the Cliff Path from
Howth Harbour to the Baily
Lighthouse (p70)

½ day

Explore sea views and hilly
trails in Killiney Hill Park
(p59)

½ day

Visit Blackrock village for
poké bowls or Michelin-star
dining (p53)

½ day

Practicalities

ARRIVING

Dublin Airport The Airlink Express bus to Dublin
city centre costs €6 online (dublinbus.ie) or €7
from the airport. Aircoach buses to the city cost
€8 and also run to various suburbs. Taxis to the
city centre cost from €25 to €40.

Heuston & Connolly Stations Trains from the
south and west of Ireland arrive into Heuston,
which connects to bus routes and the Luas tram.
Trains from the north and southeast of Ireland
arrive into Connolly, which also connects to the
DART and Luas.

HOW MUCH
FOR A

Cup of tea
€2.90

Pint of Guinness
€5.50

Toasted sandwich
€7

WHEN TO GO

JAN - MAR

Chilly temperatures and short days;
evenings brighter towards March.

APR - JUN

Warmer temperatures and drier
days, but pack for showers.

JUL - SEP

Warmest (Jul–Aug) and driest
weather, but always changeable.

OCT - DEC

Temperatures much cooler, with
shorter days and darker evenings.

GETTING AROUND

Walk The city is very easy to
navigate on foot.

Bus Dublin Bus operates the
county-wide network. Buses run
from around 6am to 11.30pm with
late-night options at weekends.
Download the Dublin Bus app for
live timetables.

Rail There are two Luas tram
lines to the suburbs, and the
DART train runs along the coast
northbound to Howth or Malahide
and southbound to Greystones.
A Leap Card (deposit €5) gives
discounted fares on bus, Luas,
DART and rail; 1-day, 3-day or
7-day Leap Visitor Cards give
unlimited journeys.

ABD/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

EATING & DRINKING

Fish and chips For a traditional takeaway, try smoked cod and chips
from Leo Burdock in Christchurch and Temple Bar, or Beshoffs on
O’Connell St, or dine in and pair beer-battered fish and chips with
natural wine at Fish Shop on Benburb St.

Irish breakfast Sausages, bacon, black and white puddings, tomato,
eggs, toast and a pot of tea – if the ‘full Irish’ isn’t available at your
accommodation, be sure to try it at a cafe.

Must-try sandwich
The Sunday roast
sandwich at Tír Deli (P54)

Best seafood truck
Salty Buoy (P54)

CONNECT & FIND YOUR WAY

Wi-fi Most cafes and hotels have
free wi-fi and wi-fi is also free on
Dublin Bus and Irish Rail.

Navigation The city is divided
into postal districts by address –
Dublin 2, Dublin 7 – with (mostly)
even numbers on the South-
side and odd numbers on the
Northside.

FOR FREE

Many museums and galleries
in Dublin are free, including the
three National Museums, the
National Gallery, the Chester
Beatty, Hugh Lane Gallery and
Irish Museum of Modern Art.

WHERE TO STAY

Dublin can be expensive during festivals or big events. Book in advance
for the best prices.

Neighbourhood

Pro/Con

St Stephen’s
Green and
Harcourt St

Easy access to museums and galleries of the
Georgian area. Nightlife and shopping around
Grafton St.

Temple Bar

Right in the action for nightlife and sightsee-
ing. Can be noisy, especially at weekends.

Ballsbridge

Upmarket suburb with good choice of hotels.
Around a 20-minute walk to the city centre.

Smithfield

Within walking distance of the city centre and
Phoenix Park.

O’Connell St and
City Centre

Good mix of hotels plus budget hostels and
B&Bs. Stick to main, well-lit areas.

The Liberties

Vibrant area, one of Dublin’s oldest. Within
walking distance of the city centre.

MONEY

Credit and debit cards are accepted in most retail
outlets and there are plenty of ATMs. Don’t carry
large amounts of cash. Look out for early-bird meal
offers, family tickets at attractions and student or
senior discounts on tickets.

TOP: FREESKYLINE/SHUTTERSTOCK ©
BOTTOM: JOERG BEUGE/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

01

Fair City of Food

& STOUT

FOOD | DRINK | HISTORY

Farm-to-fork and seasonal
are some of the buzzwords of
Dublin’s food scene, taking full
advantage of Ireland’s outstanding
produce. Some of the best
restaurants are in the suburbs and
there’s still country pubs within
Dublin’s borders.

How to

Getting around For
timetables and route
planning, download
apps from dublinbus.
ie and irishrail.ie. The
DART train ride along
the coast to Blackrock
is particularly lovey.

When to go Anytime
is a good time to eat,
drink and be merry in
Dublin – be prepared
for crowds and queues
during summer.

Money Make sure
you have cash on
hand, especially for
markets and when card
machines occasionally
go down.

Award-winning It’s worth the journey to
Blackrock on Dublin’s south coast to experi-
ence Michelin-quality restaurants like one-
Michelin-starred Liath (liathrestaurant.com)
and Italian restaurant Volpe Nera (volpenera.
ie), which has a Bib Gourmand.

Strictly seasonal, Craft (craftrestaurant.
ie) in Harold’s Cross serves high-end modern
Irish food at very reasonable prices while
Locks Brasserie (locksrestaurant.ie), which
is very popular with locals, serves French
cuisine with an Irish twist. There’s great views
from its location on the Grand Canal.

There are plenty of options for a Middleeast
feast like Brother Hubbard and Shakshuka,
but Shouk (shouk.ie) in Drumcondra is a
Dublin favourite. Their arayes (pitas stuffed
with spices, onions and lamb or beef) are the
best in town.

Weekend
Suburban Markets

Hook’t Fish&Chips in Black-
rock Market (theblack
rockmarket.com) pride
themselves on fresh, locally
caught fish and their chips
are made the traditional way:
hand cut with real Irish spuds.
Try smoked meats from
Man Street Kitchen at the
Red Stables Market
(@RedStablesMarket) in
Raheny on the Northside.

Left Oyster platter Above left Temple Bar
district Above right Olives for sale at a
Dublin market stall

PATRICIA HOFMEESTER/500PX/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

CAROLIN VOELKER/GETTY IMAGES ©

LENSMEN/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Mobile dining The street-food scene has really
taken off with a proliferation of amazing food
trucks all over Dublin. The competition is
fierce, driving up variety and quality.

With tacos to rival the neighbourhood
trucks in New York, La Cocina Cuevas
(lacocinacuevas.com) is worth driving all
the way to the far north of County Dublin
for. Served alongside Birria Quesa Tacos
(slow-cooked beef and Jack cheese), you can
practically drink a cup of its Birria consommé,

it’s so delicious.

You don’t need to hit the coast to salivate
over seafood. The Salty Buoy (saltybuoy.ie)
truck at Peggy Kelly’s pub in Harold’s Cross is
the perfect spot for fresh oysters paired with
a pint of Guinness.

Asian street food doesn’t get any better
than Bites by Kwanghi (@bites_by_kwanghi),
parked at the Leopardstown Inn. It’s difficult
to pick between the hoisin pulled pork and
Korean fried chicken, so just have both.

Sandwich
Obsession

Irish people love sand-
wiches. Dublin’s food
scene may be incredibly
diverse, but a classic
toastie is still an obsession
– especially washed down
with a creamy pint, which
Grogan’s (groganspub.ie)
in the city centre are the
champions of.

Malahide’s Griolladh
(griolladh.ie), which
means ‘grilling’ in Irish, is
taking grilled cheese to
new heights, perfecting
the ‘cheese pull’ with a
triple-cheese blend. Mean-
while, Tír Deli (tirfood.ie)
in south Dublin specialises
in smoked Irish meats. Pair
those meats with roasted
Irish veg, all tucked into
pillowy slices of bread, and
you’ve got yourself a Sun-
day roast in a sandwich.

Pub life Mulligan’s (mulligans.ie) of Poolbeg St
has been dubbed ‘the home of the pint’, serving
generations of Dubliners. James Joyce was a regu-
lar here. But Leonard’s Corner (@leonards
corner) is a worthy rival in the beer stakes. ‘The
Leonard’ is a neighbourhood gem near the Grand
Canal and the barman here prides himself on
pulling the best pint in Dublin.

Built into the wall of one of Dublin’s oldest
cemeteries in the neighbourhood of Glasnevin in
north Dublin, John Kavanagh has quenched the
thirst of gravediggers since 1833 – hence its local
name, ‘The Gravediggers’ (@gravediggers2). The
beautiful Victorian interior has changed very little
with no music or television. Perfect for a quiet pint
and conversation.

Country vibes Set in the foothills of the Dublin
Mountains, The Blue Light (thebluelight.ie) is
a country bar with the best drinking views in the
county. It’s a favourite for its regular music ses-
sions, a cosy fireplace and outdoor seating across
the road for summer days.

In west Dublin on the north side of the River
Liffey, The Wren’s Nest (thewrensnest.ie) in
the Strawberry Beds valley is a true country pub
with roots going back to the late 16th century.
Guinness was bottled here until the 1960s, so they
know a thing or two about ‘the black stuff’.

Left Classic BLT sandwich Below
John Kavanagh pub, also known as
‘The Gravediggers’

LEFT:BARTOSZ LUCZAK/GETTY IMAGES ©,
RIGHT: BRIAN LAWLESS/PA IMAGES VIA GETTY IMAGES ©

02

Family Fun in

THE PARK

PARKS | FAMILY | WILDLIFE

Step into a sprawling
Dublin green space and be
whisked away from the bustle of
the metropolis. Spend the day
discovering why Dubliners are
such fans of the great outdoors
with their attractive parks and
gardens.

How to

Getting around
There’s no need to hire
a car in Dublin city.
Well serviced by many
transport links, parks
are easily accessible
for solo adventurers or
family days out.

When to go Parks are
busiest when there’s a
bit of heat during May
to August and when-
ever the sun is out.

Picnics Join locals
taking their lunchtime
breaks in urban spaces
like St Stephen’s Green
and Dubhlinn Gardens.

Oasis of calm The famous Garden of Remem-
brance on O’Connell St is much loved as a
beautiful resting place, despite being right in
the centre of the metropolis. It’s dedicated to
‘all those who gave their lives in the cause of
Irish Freedom’.

One of the city’s most unusual parks is
Blessington Street Basin, also known as
Dublin’s ’Secret Garden’. It’s less than 15 min-
utes’ walk north from O’Connell St and about
80% of it is water. Surrounded by high stone
walls, the park was formerly the city reservoir
but is now a peaceful retreat for locals.

A slice of urban wild Roaming free, the wild
deer in Phoenix Park were first introduced
in the 1600s. This impressive open space just
3km west of the centre is the largest enclosed
city park in Europe. Locally known as ‘The
PhoenO’, it has 707 hectares of recreational

Become a Tree
Detective

Kids can learn all about
Ireland’s native species in
selected parks by download-
ing Nature Tree Trail packs
(dublincity.ie). The activity
packs include family-friendly
discovery routes as well as
facts about the trees found
across the city’s parks.
Bring a pencil and paper for
rubbings.

Left Garden of Remembrance
Above left Fallow deer, Phoenix Park
Above right Tulips, National Botanic
Gardens (p58)

DESIGN PICS/PATRICK SWAN/GETTY IMAGES ©

YULIA PLEKHANOVA/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

TRABANTOS/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

space to explore and it’s an important site of
urban biodiversity. Nearby Dublin Zoo is also
a family favourite.

The National Botanic Gardens in Glas-
nevin is a heavenly, peaceful place for a stroll
– particularly on a summer’s day. Visitors
of all ages will be enthralled by its exten-
sive grounds, walled gardens and restored
glasshouses. Right next door is Glasnevin
Cemetery, another historical landmark that

is accessible via a walkway from the Botanic
Gardens. Perfect for a stroll on an autumn
afternoon.

Beyond Dublin Centre

Hotfoot it to St Anne’s Park (Clontarf East)
for acres of green space just 30 minutes from
the centre by Dublin Bus. The park is top for
dog owners, with a space specifically for dogs
to meet up and make friends.

Places for
Parents

Corkagh Park Often
overlooked, this Clondalkin
park is a green jewel in an
expanding city. The 120
hectares has rolling hills,
native trees, a rose garden, a
fairy wood, a Viking-themed
playground, fishing lakes
and even its own campsite.

St Stephen’s Green Com-
plete with a playground
for tots and enough signs
of the city’s living history
for older kids, the Green’s
location is ideal for a quick
breather between shop-
ping and snacking.

Marlay Park This park in
the Southside suburbs
of Rathfarnham and
Ballinteer has cafes, craft
shops, playgrounds, sports
facilities and even a mini-
ature railway.

Recommended by Peter
Kavanagh, podcaster and
Clondalkin politician
@thekavofficial

On Saturday mornings, see people practicing
tai chi organised by Suaimhneas (taichi
chuan.ie) in front of the entrance to the walled
garden. St Anne’s also has a Remote-Control
Car Track, where racers take their miniature cars
out on the tracks while onlookers cheer from the
sidelines.

Parks outside Dublin’s urban core are usually
quieter. With views of Dublin Bay, Blackrock Park
is 30 minutes southbound from the centre and
has a pleasant cycle path, outdoor exercise equip-
ment and a serene pond complete with an island.

Further south, do as the locals do and take a
hike in Killiney Hill Park. Enjoy incredible views
and ships across the Irish Sea and gaze towards
Dalkey Island. The pathways here are brushed by
woodland and vibrant yellow gorse. The park is ac-
cessible as a day trip from the city centre and is a
20-minute walk from the DART station at Killiney.

Heading 30 minutes northwest from central
Dublin, Tolka Valley Regional Park is another
worthy escape, with undulating fields, tranquil
meadowlands and a babbling river slicing through
300 acres.

Left St Stephen’s Green Below Mute
swan, Blackrock Park

LEFT: TRABANTOS/SHUTTERSTOCK ©
RIGHT: FIREGLO/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

03

Revolutionary

DUBLIN

HISTORY | CULTURE | LANDMARKS

Dublin is where many of Ireland’s most subversive moments took place
during the 1900s. The country went through many turbulent revolts to separate
itself from British rule in the early part of the 20th century, most notably three
revolutionary conflicts – the 1916 Easter Rising, the War of Independence and
the Irish Civil War.

How to

Getting around City
centre revolutionary sites
are easily accessed by
foot. For places further
away like Glasnevin
Cemetery, take the local
Dublin Bus or cycle using
the bike-share scheme
(dublinbikes.ie).

When to go Top attrac-
tions are particularly
popular with tourists
come summertime.

Hear the Proclama-
tion Commemoration
of the 1916 Rising takes
place on Easter Sunday
morning outside the
GPO. The National Flag is
lowered at noon and the
Proclamation is read.

SEMMICK PHOTO/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

DAMIEN STORAN/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Whirlwind Tour

A taste of revolution Dublin’s impressive General Post Office,
opened in 1818, houses the GPO Museum commemorating
the 1916 Easter Rising. The GPO itself is a landmark of great
significance to modern Irish history, as the former headquar-
ters of the uprising leaders. It was from outside here that
Patrick Pearse read out the Proclamation of the Irish Republic.

Within walking distance of the GPO, The Four Courts (Inns
Quay) is where the Civil War began on 28 June 1922, when the
National Army attacked an anti-Treaty garrison. The fighting
raged for 60 hours.

Iconic women Though women played a vital part in the revo-
lution, there are few landmarks that represent their input. Two
notable exceptions are the statue of nationalist Constance
Markievicz with her beloved dog Poppett on Tara St and,
further afield in Fingal, a plaque to Mary ‘Molly’ Adrian on the
bridge in the charming village of Oldtown. Molly was a veteran
of the 1916 Rising and the director of the Lusk branch of
Cumann na mBan, an all-female auxiliary group.

Echoes of conflict During the early 20th century right through
to 1923, many revolutionaries fell. Some of the most import-
ant leaders and suffragists are commemorated at Glasnevin
Cemetery. Here you can find the graves of fighters including
humanitarian Roger Casement, writer Arthur Griffith and suf-
fragette Maud Gonne. Arbour Hill Cemetery is the burial place
of 14 leaders of the Rising including Patrick Pearse and James
Connolly, who were executed at Kilmainham Gaol in 1916.

Left Glasnevin Cemetery Far left top
Four Courts Far left bottom Reading
of the Proclamation

Revolutionary
Women

Despite the lack of phys-
ical Dublin tributes, the
importance of Irish wom-
en during the conflicts
cannot go unmentioned.

Cumann na mBan,
an all-female auxiliary
who partook in the fight
for Irish freedom, was
founded at Wynn’s Hotel
in 1914.

Nearby, 44 Gardiner
St has a memorial plaque
honouring Molly O’Reilly.
As a teenager, she raised
the symbolic green flag
with the gold harp over
Liberty Hall before the
1916 Rising.

During the Civil War,
many women were im-
prisoned at Kilmainham
Gaol, including political
cartoonist Grace Gifford
Plunkett whose restored
mural can still be seen
there.

Recommended by tour
guide Marteen Lane
(marteenlane.com;
@marteenlane)

SEMMICK PHOTO/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

KEY PLAYERS

in a Revolution

01 Thomas J Clarke

A leading figure in
the Irish Republican
Brotherhood (IRB). The
first signatory of the
Proclamation of the
Irish Republic.

02 Patrick Pearse

Irish language activist
and headmaster, Pearse
was the military and
political leader of the
rebel forces in the
Easter Rising (1916)
.

03 Francis Sheehy-
Skeffington

Dedicated pacifist and
suffragist, murdered by
a British military officer
during the Rising after
being taken hostage.

04 Joseph Plunkett

Born into a wealthy
family, Plunkett was the
main military strategist
for the rebel military
forces during the
Rising.

05 Roger Casement

Humanitarian and 1916
leader who exposed
abuses in the Congo. He
was convicted of high
treason against the
Crown and hanged in
London.

06 Constance
Markievicz

Suffragette and
nationalist, she was
elected Minister for

Labour in the First Dáil.
The first female cabinet
minister in Europe.

07 Kathleen Lynn

The chief medical
officer with the Irish
Citizen Army during
the Rising. She
was imprisoned in
Kilmainham Gaol with
Markievicz.

08 Elizabeth
O’Farrell

Arguably part of the
most pivotal moment of
the Rising by delivering
the message of
surrender to the British
troops.

09 Grace Gifford
Plunkett

A political cartoonist
who married Joseph

Plunkett hours
before his execution.
Following the Rising,
she produced much
nationalist propaganda.

10 Michael Collins

Played a leading
role throughout the
Irish struggle for
independence. He was
director of intelligence
for the IRA and leader
of the IRB.

11 Arthur Griffith

Founder of the party
Sinn Féin, Griffith led
the Irish negotiations
that produced the
Anglo-Irish Treaty.
Signed it with Collins.

12 Éamon de Valera

Fought in the Rising,
became the political
leader of the Irish
revolutionary
movement. Later

was Taoiseach and
President of
Ireland.

13 Maud Gonne

Suffragette
and republican
revolutionary who
opposed the Treaty. She
set up the Womens’
Prisoner Defence
League.

01, 02 History and Art Collection/Alamy Stock Photo ©, 03, 04, 05, 06, 07 Courtesy of the National Library of Ireland ©, 07 TobyG/SHUTTERSTOCK ©,
08 public domain ©, 09, 10, 11 Courtesy of the National Library of Ireland ©, 12 History and Art Collection/Alamy Stock Photo ©, 13 Public Domain ©

A Nation
Divided

HOW IRELAND BECAME
TWO STATES

The Irish Revolution
encompassed a
series of events that
marked incredible
political upheaval
across the island.
Understanding
the impact of the
country’s most
turbulent times
makes a visit to
Ireland and its
capital city Dublin
a more enriching
experience.

Left Proclamation of the Irish
Respublic Middle Kilmainham
Gaol (p75) Right Easter Parade
commemorating the 1916 Rising

By 1912, Irish nationalism was on the rise and Irish Home
Rule legislation was due to be passed by the British
parliament in Westminster. Home Rule would give Ireland
limited self-government within the British Empire. Irish
unionists – those who wished to remain under British
rule, mainly based in northeast Ulster – intended to resist
Home Rule, primarily in the form of a militia known as the
Ulster Volunteer Force (UVF).

In response, the nationalist Irish Volunteers were formed
as a defensive militia. However, a separatist minority in
Ireland, represented by the secret society known as the
Irish Republican Brotherhood (IRB), desired complete Irish
independence and an end to 700 years of British rule.

As Irish historian Gerard Shannon explains, ‘Key leaders
of the IRB infiltrated the Volunteers to use the organisa-
tion as a means for rebellion. Their chance came with the
outbreak of WWI in 1914. With thousands of Irishmen joining
the British army and dying in the trenches of Europe, the
IRB believed “England’s difficulty was Ireland’s opportunity”.’
Their planned insurrection, the Easter Rising, took place in
April 1916. A Proclamation signed by the leaders declared
the independent Irish Republic and over 1500 rebels took
over key locations in Dublin. However, the British military
crushed them after a week and the leading figures were
executed.

Aftermath of the Rising

Gerard notes that following this conflict there was an
upsurge of sympathy for the rebels. The separatist party
Sinn Féin, wrongly blamed for the Rising, won over 70
seats at the 1918 British general election. With their elec-

AITORMMFOTO/GETTY IMAGES ©

toral mandate, the Sinn Féin MPs formed Dáil Éireann, an Irish
parliament for the independent Irish Republic declared in 1916.

From January 1919, the Irish War of Independence began.
The Irish Republic’s underground institutions acted as a
counter-state to the British administration in Ireland. The
resurgent Irish Volunteers, now known as the Irish Republican
Army (IRA), began a guerrilla campaign and intelligence war

against the British forces in
Ireland. The war ended with
a truce in July 1921, and Sinn
Féin representatives nego-
tiated the Anglo-Irish Treaty
with the British cabinet that
December. This lead to the
creation of the Irish Free
State – not a republic, but a
self-governing dominion of
the British Empire. It con-

sisted of 26 counties. The remaining six counties of northeast
Ulster made up Northern Ireland, governed by a unionist ma-
jority, functioning as its own entity within the United Kingdom.

A bitter political split followed in both Sinn Féin and the IRA.
Those opposed felt the Free State fell far short of an indepen-
dent Irish Republic and was a betrayal of what was fought for.
Those in support felt the Free State could be used as an eventual
’stepping stone’ to complete freedom for Ireland. This dispute
led to the Irish Civil War, beginning in June 1922. The intensely
violent conflict lasted 11 months and ended in victory for the
Irish Free State. In 1948, the Free State declared itself as the
independent Republic of Ireland and withdrew from the British
Commonwealth.

With thousands of
Irishmen joining the
British army and dying
in the trenches of
Europe, the IRB believed
‘England’s difficulty was
Ireland’s opportunity’.

Revolutionary
Moments on Film

Michael Collins (1996)
Though this film by Neil Jor-
dan was criticised for some
historical inaccuracies, Liam
Neeson was widely praised for
his passionate portrayal of the
1916 leader.

Rebellion (2016) This
five-part serial drama told
the story of the 1916 Rising
through the perspective of
characters living through the
political turbulence.

Mise Éire (1959) Newsreels
and original footage feature in
this documentary about the
revolutionary events in 1916
and following years.

The Wind that Shakes
the Barley (2006) An
action-packed drama about
brothers during the War of
Independence. Ken Loach’s
film won Palme d’Or at the
2006 Cannes Film Festival.

DAVID SVESTKA/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

LONNDUBH/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

04

Sea Air Around

DALKEY

SCENIC | COASTAL | ACTIVE

Pack a picnic and leave the city centre behind for a refreshing coastal walk.
This one starts in the heritage town of Dalkey, which had seven castles in the
Middle Ages and still has ruins. You can walk up steps through a forest trail to
the top of Killiney or Dalkey Hill for beautiful sea views, or take a stroll on the
pebble beach.

How to

Getting there Take the DART from the city centre to Dalkey station (around
30 minutes, irishrail.ie). If driving, park at Dalkey DART station or use on-street
parking (fees apply). There are some steep hills and the walk goes through a
park so is not suitable for bikes.

When to go Year-round, but spring, summer and autumn are the nicest times.

Top tip Drop in to Select Stores (selectstoresdalkey.ie) in Dalkey for fresh
juices and smoothies.

Top of
the Rock

Granite was pulled
out of Dalkey
Quarry for many
years — the
covetable rock was
used to build Dún
Laoghaire Piers from
1815 to 1817, as well
as the Great South
Wall at Dublin Port in
1795. Nowadays the
disused quarry is a
popular rock-
climbing location.
Organise lessons
with Go Beyond
Adventure (gobeyond
adventure.ie).

LAURIE NOBLE/GETTY IMAGES ©

01 Visit Dalkey
Castle and Heritage
Centre (pictured left)
for a one-hour tour
that includes a live
theatre performance,
exhibitions on local
heritage and a writer’s
gallery.

02 Killiney Hill Park has
looped trails to the top
of Dalkey Hill and Killiney
Hill, as well as superb
views over Dublin Bay,
Killiney Bay and to the
Sugarloaf Mountain.

03 Walk the Vico Road
back to the village to
enjoy more sea views –
there are steps down to
White Rock bathing place,
which connects to Killiney
Beach at low tide.

04 Coliemore Harbour is
a hub for fishing and div-
ing. Take the small ferry
across to Dalkey Island
(summer months) or visit
nearby Biddy’s Cottage
(86 Coliemore Rd) for
food and storytelling.

05 At Bullock Harbour visit
the ruins of Bullock Castle,
which dates from 1205, or
take a kayaking tour along the
coast back to Dalkey Island
(kayaking.ie).

MARC DUFRESNE/GETTY IMAGES ©,
IRENE FOX/SHUTTERSTOCK ©,
LUKAS FENDEK/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

DUBLIN BAY

Wildlife

01 Gulls

Gulls are present
year-round, including
Mediterranean gulls,
black-headed gulls and
herring gulls, which nest
around Dalkey Island.

02 Cormorants

These birds are often
spotted sitting on rocks
around the bay, spread-

ing out their wings to
dry after diving for fish.

03 Terns

Some of Europe’s rarest
seabirds, Arctic terns,
sandwich terns, com-
mon terns and roseate
terns are all regular
visitors to the bay.

04 Oystercatchers

Easy to spot with their

bright orange bills and
pink legs, oystercatch-
ers wade around rocky
areas looking for worms
and shellfish to feed on.

05 Brent geese

Light-bellied brent
geese migrate from
Arctic Canada for
autumn and winter –
they are spotted around
North Bull Island and

Booterstown Nature
Reserve.

06 Grey herons

Lone grey herons are
often spotted sitting
motionless on rocks
along the shore around
the bay, ready to strike
for prey.

07 Short-eared
owls

Often found hunting,
seen most often on
North Bull Island and
sometimes on Dalkey
Island.

08 Seals

There are populations
of both common seals
and larger grey seals at

North Bull Island and
at Lamb Island beside
Dalkey Island.

09 Porpoises and
dolphins

Harbour porpoises are
often spotted around
Dalkey Island, while
small pods of bottlenose
and common dolphins
can be found in the bay.

10 Rabbits and
hares

There are Irish hares
and rabbits in the
grasslands at North Bull
Island, and Dalkey Island
also has a population of
rabbits.

11 Butterflies

Species that favour
Dublin Bay include the

marsh fritillary butterfly,
with its orange and
cream-patterned wings.

12 Jellyfish

These include common
jellyfish, transparent
with four distinct rings,
which are often spotted
drifting around the
bay between April and
September.

01 ERIC ISSELEE/SHUTTERSTOCK ©, 02 FIREGLO/SHUTTERSTOCK ©, 03 DAVID OBRIEN/SHUTTERSTOCK ©, 04 MARK L STANLEY/GETTY IMAGES ©, 05 SANDRA
STANDBRIDGE/SHUTTERSTOCK © 06 ERIC ISSELEE/SHUTTERSTOCK ©, 07 TOBYG/SHUTTERSTOCK ©, 08 ESTHER MOLINé/GETTY IMAGES ©, 09 JOOST VAN UFFELEN/
SHUTTERSTOCK ©, 10 MIKROMAN6/GETTY IMAGES ©, 11 NATURE PHOTOGRAPHERS LTD/ALAMY STOCK PHOTO

05

Hiking in

HOWTH

ACTIVE | SEAFOOD | OUTDOORS

Long ago Howth was an island, and to this day there’s still something
about the place that gives it an island vibe. Take a walk on the cliffs or hike
through the gorse on Howth Head to shake off the big city and work up an
appetite for fresh seafood in the village.

How to

Getting here The best way to get to Howth from Dublin city is by DART (around
26 minutes) or Dublin Bus (number 31).

When to go Spring and summer for fragrant gorse and rhododendrons. The
harbour and main Cliff Path can get crowded on sunny weekends and holidays.

Tasty tip Howth is a fishing village, so this is the place to tuck into fish and
chips; the freshest are from Beshoffs (beshoffs.ie).

The Insider
Scoop on Howth

Sign up for a four-
hour Howth Safari
Hiking Tour with
Shane’s Howth
Adventures (shane
showthadventures.
com) to learn all
about the nature and
history of the Howth
peninsula. Shane will
take you to Howth
Castle and the Cliff
Path, sharing local
legends and refer-
ences while pointing
out secret trails along
the way.

35007/GETTY IMAGES ©

01 Potter around Howth
Harbour (pictured left)
and pier, check out the
ruins of St Mary’s Abbey
and visit Howth Market
to stock up on picnic
treats before starting your
walk.

02 The Cliff Path runs
from the harbour along
the peninsula’s cliffs and
around past the Baily
Lighthouse. Turn off at
The Summit to loop back
to the village.

03 HG Wells wrote that the view
from Muck Rock over Howth
Harbour, Ireland’s Eye island and
south over Dublin Bay was ‘one
of the most beautiful views in the
world’.

04 Aideen’s Grave, a
megalithic portal tomb,
is said to have been the
burial place of the wife
of Oscar, grandson of the
legendary warrior Fionn
MacCumhaill.

05 Walk the grounds of
Howth Castle to see the
rhododendron gardens
in bloom, to explore
overgrown walking trails
and to see the gates that
pirate queen Grace O’
Malley once called on.

TRABANTOS/SHUTTERSTOCK ©,
OSHEAPHOTOGRAPHY/GETTY IMAGES ©

06

Cultural

DUBLIN

CULTURE | ART | FESTIVALS

One of the best things about Dublin is that you can immerse yourself in
culture of all types. One day you can be admiring the Book of Kells, listening to
literary stories at the Dublin Writers Museum or learning about 19th-century
Irish emigration. The next you might be captivated by some theatre or live
music, or swept up in a local festival.

How to

Getting here Most of the
main cultural venues are
in Dublin city, which is
very walkable.

How much Most galleries
and museums – such
as the National Gallery,
the National Museum of
Ireland and the RHA – are

free. Charges vary for
theatre, concerts and live
music performances.

Book worms The
Chester Beatty museum
and library in Dublin
Castle has a fascinating
collection of rare books
and manuscripts from
around the world.

NIALL CARSON/PA IMAGES VIA GETTY IMAGES ©

JONATHAN SMITH/LONELY PLANET ©

RHA Gallery Has a mix of Irish and international art, with five
different galleries, one dedicated to emerging Irish artists. ‘I
love going to the RHA, it is so immense,’ says Sheena Barrett,
curator of the LAB Gallery. ‘You can see so much work, or see
one show if you have a short amount of time.’

National Museum of Ireland – Decorative Arts and
History Located in the former Collins Barracks. ‘I love when
you walk into the square, there is such an incredible feeling
of being part of history,’ says Sheena. ‘I love seeing the Irish
designers like Sybil Connolly and I love social history, getting
a sense of what people’s lives were like, such as when you go
into the exhibition of Georgian Dublin and see the extravagant
tableware they had.’

14 Henrietta Street Tells the story of how one address
went from Georgian townhouse to a tenement dwelling over
the years, and the personal stories of those who lived there.
‘It’s one house seen through the lens of different ages and
timeframes,’ says Sheena. ‘You can physically see the layers of
history in the building. The guides are often local Dubs who are
passing on memories that their grandparents told them about
living in the area.’

EPIC At the fully digital Irish Emigration Museum, you can
learn the stories of famous Irish emigrants and about Ireland’s
impact on the world with everything from music and sport to
design and innovation, through interactive exhibits. Afterwards
you can explore your own Irish roots at the Irish Family History
Centre.

Left Gandini Juggling, Dublin Dance
Festival preview Far left top MACNAS
arts production, Dublin Fringe Festival
Far left bottom Koran, Chester
Beatty Library

Best Festivals

Dublin Fringe Festival
Dublin comes alive over
16 days and nights every
September with a variety
of talent across a range of
performing arts.
(fringefest.com)

Dublin Dance Festival
Two weeks of the most
creative and visionary
Irish and international
dance performances
around the city every May.
(dublindancefestival.ie)

International Literature
Festival Dublin A two-
week May celebration of
Irish and international
authors, poets, play-
wrights, screenwriters and
lyricists. Expect readings,
guided walks and screen-
ings. (ilfdublin.com)

Bloomsday Celebrating
the fictional day from
James Joyce’s Ulysses,
and its central character
Leopold Bloom, with
readings and performanc-
es every 16 June.
(bloomsdayfestival.ie)

NIALL CARSON/PA IMAGES VIA GETTY IMAGES ©

Listings

BEST OF THE REST

Cosy Pub Snugs

Doheny & Nesbitt

Take your pick of snugs in this Lower Baggot
St spot – in Victorian times, these tiny rooms
were partitioned off near the bar, for privacy
for those who didn’t want to be seen.

Toners

You’re very lucky if you get a coveted spot in
the front snug in Toners, also on Lower Bag-
got St. It’s full of character and poet WB Yeats
apparently once drank here.

Kehoes

This South Anne St gem dates to 1803 and
you can still see the old wooden partitions,
drawers and grocery counter from Victorian
times. There’s a serving hatch connecting the
snug to the bar.

The Stag’s Head

There’s plenty of room in the snug behind this
beautiful Victorian bar in the city. Wood pan-
elling, mirrors, stained-glass windows, plush
seats and candlelight add to the atmosphere.

Tea & Cake

Bewley’s €

If you like people-watching and buzz, get a
pot of Irish breakfast tea and a cherry bun
and settle in to soak up the atmosphere in
this traditional Grafton Stet cafe.

Queen of Tarts €

Tuck into cakes, seasonal crumbles, delicate
pastries and of course delicious tarts of all
flavours. There’s a branch on Dame St and
another nearby on Cow’s Lane.

The Shelbourne €€€

Treat yourself to traditional afternoon tea
in the Lord Mayor’s Lounge overlooking St
Stephen’s Green, with the full works – tea in
china cups and tiered stands with delicate
sandwiches, scones and desserts.

Bread 41 €

Grab a seat at the communal table in this
Pearse St bakery and tuck into all things sour-
dough, leaving room for croissants and fresh
pastries (arrive early at weekends as things
often sell out).

Wall & Keogh €

This Portobello favourite has all types of black,
green, yellow and white loose-leaf tea, with ev-
erything from Earl Grey and Rooibos to Oolong
and Maté, plus a menu of snacks and treats.

Interactive Exhibits

MoLI

Visit the Museum of Literature Ireland to see
the first copy of Ulysses, listen to audio advice
from Irish writers, and then write the first line
of your own novel on a blank page.

Queen of Tarts

CKTRAVELS.COM/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

EPIC

In this fully digital Irish Emigration Museum
in Custom House Quay, you can swipe
through pages of books, hear stories of Irish
characters, send a digital postcard and then
explore your Irish roots.

The Little Museum of Dublin

Play a music box, pull the handle on a vintage
slot machine and either guide yourself or take
a tour around this lovely museum overlooking
St Stephen’s Green.

Guinness Storehouse

Learn to pull the perfect pint at the Guinness
Academy or even put your own face on a pint,
before enjoying the views from the rooftop
Gravity Bar.

Kilmainham Gaol

Get an idea what it was like to be incarcerated
here by standing inside a cell in this jail. It
opened in 1796 and various leaders of Irish
rebellions have been imprisoned here over
the years.

Words on the Street

Marsh’s Library

Walk the aisles and soak up the history of
Dublin’s first library, which opened behind St
Patrick’s Cathedral in 1707 and has tall book-
cases full of old books from all over the world.

Ulysses Rare Books

Browse in this Duke St shop to find your own
copies of Irish writers like Patrick Kavanagh,
Seamus Heaney and John Banville, plus rare
editions of James Joyce, Oscar Wilde and
WB Yeats.

Gutter Bookshop

This Temple Bar favourite is the ideal place
to stock up on books about Irish history,
Irish folk tales and great contemporary Irish
writing.

Long Room, Trinity College

The Last Bookshop

Drop in to this Camden St treasure trove for
books on art, history and literature, with col-
lectibles like Seamus Heaney poetry. Look out
for the resident dogs, Bertie and Gussie, too.

Long Room, Trinity

Come here to see the Book of Kells, and soak
up the scents from ancient leather bound
books – there are more than 200,000 on the
shelves and it’s been a library since 1732.

Dublin Literary Pub Crawl

Take a fun evening jaunt around some historic
Dublin pubs, with live sketches to bring alive
the stories of the pubs and the writers associ-
ated with them.

Green Escapes

St Stephen’s Green

Escape here from the bustle of nearby
Grafton St – there’s an ornamental lake
full of ducks, tree-lined paths and plenty of
benches and grassy spots for picnics in good
weather.

Iveagh Gardens

Opposite St Stephen’s and a bit more rustic
than the other parks in the south city. Stroll
these gardens to find secret pathways
through old trees, a maze, an ancient sundial.

SALVADOR MANIQUIZ/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Grand Canal

Take a peaceful walk along the tree-lined
banks here, beloved by poet Patrick Kavana-
gh, and you might spot some wildlife or the
resident swans around Portobello.

Spirit of the City

Roe & Co Distillery

Taste the different whiskey ingredients and
learn all about distilling on James’s St, before
shaking up your own cocktail at the Cocktail
Workshop Experience and then relaxing in the
Power House Bar.

The Dublin Liberties Distillery

Sample a honeycomb liqueur and hear stories
of Dublin’s medieval days in this working
distillery in the Liberties area.

Teeling Whiskey Distillery

Learn how Dublin was once at the centre of
the world’s whiskey-making, and tour through
the production area, copper stills and cask
room before a whiskey tasting.

Pearse Lyons Distillery

Look around the old graveyard here, where
everyone from sailors to vicars were buried,
before exploring the old St James’ Church
where the working distillery is located.

Jameson Distillery

Tour the original Dublin whiskey experience
on Bow St to find out more about how the
amber liquid is made, then test the flavours
against other whiskeys at a tasting.

Vintage & Antique

Jenny Vander

Browse this Drury St treasure trove for pieces
that date as far back as the 1700s, with lots
of beaded handbags, scarves and designer
jewels from the 19th and early 20th centuries.

Delphi Antiques

Set in a lovely walkway in Powerscourt
Townhouse Centre. Dazzle your eyes with an
abundance of silver and all types of vintage
jewels.

Spindizzy Records

Pop in to the Market Arcade off South Great
Georges St to hear vintage sounds and
browse vinyl and CDs in all genres. Second-
hand dance 12-inches are a speciality.

O’Sullivan Antiques

Francis St in the Liberties is the place for an-
tique furniture – step back in time in this shop
for Georgian and Regency pieces, art, statues
and lighting.

Nine Crows Vintage

Visit this Temple Bar favourite for a blast
from the not-too-distant past with thrift and
vintage clothing, including many unworn or
on-trend items that have been reworked.

For Foot-Tapping

The Cobblestone

Tap your feet at this Smithfield favourite
any night of the week at a traditional music
session – there are regular uilleann pipes ses-
sions, plus sean-nós (‘old-style’ songs), céilidh
(dances) and set dancing.

O’Donoghue’s

The famous music bar on Merrion Row where
the Dubliners first started. Grab a stool near
the front if you want to sing along with one of
the regular traditional music sessions here.

Whelan’s

Don’t miss this famous live music venue on
Wexford St, which regularly hosts visiting
and local bands of all genres. There are three
different stages and the front bar also hosts
regular free gigs.

Vicar Street

Book in to this intimate music and comedy
venue on Thomas St with around 1,000 seats,
for a mix of live music acts and stand-up
performers. Look out for Irish favourites, Foil
Arms and Hog.

City Secrets

Dark Dublin Tour

Hear all about the spooky side of the city on
this two-hour walking tour with Alternative
Dublin, which tells terrifying stories of grave
robbing, torture and serial killers from history.

Pat Liddy’s Walking Tours

There’s very little that Pat and his guides
don’t know about Dublin’s history, so let them
show you around and tell you lots of secrets
of the streets.

Fab Food Trails

Eat your way around the city and try local
Irish produce on this Dublin walking tour,
which includes new trends and visits some
gastronomic gems.

City Sightseeing Hop-On Hop-Off Bus

The guides on these hop-on, hop-off buses
are so entertaining, you might not want to
actually get off. It’s a great way to get around
the city and to places like Kilmainham Gaol.

Dublin Ulysses Tours

Don’t worry if you haven’t read the book – im-
merse yourself in all things Joyce on a walking
tour of the places that were mentioned in
Ulysses the novel, starting in the Palace Bar.

Food with Views

The Winding Stair €€

Irish cuisine overlooking the River Liffey – for
a special night, book the small dining area
overlooking the Ha’penny Bridge.

Vicar Street

Sophie’s at The Dean €€

Absorb 360-degree views of the city over food
and cocktails in this popular rooftop restaurant
on Harcourt St.

The Pepper Pot €

Take a perch along the balcony in the Powers-
court Townhouse Centre and watch the world
go past below as you tuck into tasty breakfast,
lunch, coffee or pastries baked on-site.

Oliveto at Haddington House €€

Indulge in Italian food on the patio or garden
in Dún Laoghaire, with views of the pier and
over to Sandycove, and just a DART ride from
the city centre.

Rooftop Bar at The Marker Hotel €€

On a sunny evening, get settled into the roof-
top bar of this docklands hotel for views of the
Dublin Bay and Dublin Mountains with sunset
cocktails and sharing boards.

Canalboat Restaurant €€€

Get on board for a three-hour dinner cruise
along part of the Grand Canal in the south
city. During the trip, you’ll get to see how
some of the canal locks work.

Scan for things to see, do
and try in Dublin

PAUL KEELING/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

WICKLOW

NATURE | GARDENS | NATIONAL PARK

Experience
Wicklow
online

Wicklow National Park

► Gardens & Homes
(p84)

► The Garden of Ireland
(p88)

► Seaside Ventures
(p90)

► Wandering Wicklow
(p92)

► Listings (p96)

Peter Krocka/shutterstock ©

Explore the gardens
and tour the distillery
at Powerscourt
House & Gardens
(p85)

½ day

Admire lake views on a tour
of Russborough House &
Parklands (p86)

½ day

Forage for fruits, nuts and
mushrooms on a guided walk
(p89)

½ day

Find forest glens and a water-
fall in Glenmalure Valley
(p93)

1 day

WICKLOW

TRIP BUILDER

Walk in a forest, stroll the gardens of a stately home
or climb a mountain for rewarding views – there’s plenty to
keep you busy in Wicklow, known as ‘the Garden of Ireland’.
Immerse yourself in gorgeous landscapes or take to the coast
for refreshing coastal walks and golden beaches.

Catch your breath on
a summit hike up
Lugnaquilla (p93)

8 hr

Explore bookable
experiences in
Wicklow online

Kayak around Bray Head and
meet friendly seals (p91)

½ day

Soak in the old-world
atmosphere at Killruddery
House & Gardens (p86)

½ day

Picnic by the river at Clara
Vale Nature Reserve
(p95)

½ day

Stroll tree-lined paths and
admire wild flowers at the
National Botanic Gardens,
Kilmacurragh p870)

½ day

Try surfing, paddleboarding
or sunbathing at Brittas Bay
(p91)

½ day

STEFANO_VALERI/SHUTTERSTOCK ©,
PAUL & PAVEENA MCKENZIE/GETTY IMAGES ©,
CTATIANA/SHUTTERSTOCK ©,
GBURN/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Practicalities

ARRIVING

By train The DART runs from Dublin to Bray
and Greystones and there are Irish Rail trains
to Wicklow, Rathdrum and Arklow. From here,
connect to local buses or taxi.

By car The M11 motorway runs south through
County Wicklow. If driving directly to Glendal-
ough, note that car parks can fill up early on
weekends and bank holidays.

HOW MUCH
FOR A

Surf lesson
€45

Whiskey tasting
€25

Gardens entry
€8.50

WHEN TO GO

JAN - MAR

Chilly, short days but evenings
brighter towards spring.

APR - JUN

Warmer, drier days and bursts of colour
in gardens. Be prepared for showers.

JUL - SEP

Warmest and driest in
July and August.

OCT - DEC

Much cooler, but beautiful
autumn colours in the forests.

GETTING AROUND

Train Services run mostly along
the coast.

Bus Services exist between the
main towns, but it is not easy to
get between the attractions using
public transport.

Car The best way to get around;
popular spots get busy with day-
trippers from Dublin at weekends
and holidays.

ELECTRIC EGG/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

EATING & DRINKING

Organic This is the garden of Ireland – go organic at the Strawberry
Tree (P97) or try foraging for wild food with Wicklow Wild Foods (P89).

Cookery schools Learn to cook seasonal local dishes at Ballyknocken
(P97) or cook on an open fire with Tipi Adventures (p89).

Best whiskey tasting
Powerscourt Distillery (p89)

Must-try berry wine
Wicklow Way Wines (p89)

CONNECT & FIND YOUR WAY

Wi-fi Available free of charge
in most cafes, restaurants and
accommodations. 4G mobile cov-
erage is generally good but may
be patchy in the mountains.

Navigation Plan your driving
routes in advance as many of the
roads are small. There are compa-
nies providing baggage shuttles if
you’re walking the Wicklow Way.

WICKLOW PASSPORT

Keep track of the places you visit
with a Wicklow Passport (€2),
which can be stamped in towns
and villages across the county
(visitwicklow.ie/passport).

WHERE TO STAY

Place

Pro/Con

Glendalough

Peaceful village setting; direct access to
scenic Glendalough Valley.

Ashford

Sleeping options like Tinakilly Country House,
with gardens and sea views, Hunter’s Hotel or
Ballyknocken House.

Enniskerry

Gorgeous village, adjacent to the Powerscourt
Estate and waterfall.

Dunlavin

This is where you’ll find Rathsallagh House,
set on 500 acres with thousands of trees.

Macreddin Village

Check into BrookLodge for organic food, golf
and pub in a quiet, countryside setting.

MONEY

Credit and debit cards are widely accepted. Bring
any cash you need in advance as you may not find
ATMs easily.

TOP: ROMAN_OVERKO/SHUTTERSTOCK ©
BOTTOM: ROMAN_OVERKO/GETTY IMAGES ©

07

Gardens &

HOMES

GARDENS | NATURE | DAY TRIPS

County Wicklow is a
nature lover’s delight and a stroll
around some of its stately homes
and gardens is a lovely, calming
experience. Feel the weight of
history in grand formal gardens,
wander among ancient oaks
and admire swaying wild-flower
meadows.

How to

Getting around
Powerscourt (Ennisker-
ry village) and Killrud-
dery (around 2.5km
from Bray) are served
by buses. Russborough
House (Blessington)
has limited bus access
and you’ll need a car to
get to Kilmacurragh.

When to go Spring
for rhododendrons,
summer for wild-
flowers, autumn for
colour. In good weather,
the gardens get packed
with Dubliners on day
trips.

Time for tea All of
the gardens have cafes
for post-stroll
refreshments.

Aristocratic grandeur One of the county’s
grandest mansions and gardens is Power-
scourt House & Gardens (powerscourt.
com), set on a magnificent estate overlooking
the Wicklow countryside and the Sugarloaf
Mountain. The house and gardens date back
to 1730 and the 47 acres includes formal
walks, walled gardens and a Japanese garden,
as well as a terrace cafe and distillery.

‘Powerscourt is the aristocratic garden.
You’ve got huge urns, enormous fountains,
Victorian wrought-iron railings and ornate
gates,’ says Seamus O’Brien, head gardener at
the National Botanic Gardens in Kilmacurragh.
‘Powerscourt is remarkable for its trees – the
towering giant redwoods and beech trees.
There’s a beech avenue that sweeps up from
the incredibly ornate gateway. In autumn, those
beech trees turn russet and it’s just beautiful.’

Best of the Rest

Other great Wicklow houses,
parks and gardens include
Avondale House & Forest
Park for woodland walks
or historic house tours;
Glendalough in the Wicklow
Mountains National Park for
lakes, walks and a 6th-century
monastic village; and Mount
Usher Gardens in Ashford for
riverside walks and carpets of
spring blooms.

Left Glendalough
Above left Powerscourt House & Gardens
Above right Russborough House

DAWID K PHOTOGRAPHY/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

CINEMATOGRAPHPICTURES/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

DACOWLEY/GETTY IMAGES ©

Old-world ambience Set on an 800-acre
estate and dating to the 1640s, Killruddery
House & Gardens (killruddery.com) has one
of the oldest and last-remaining Dutch-style
gardens in Ireland and Britain. The estate is
home to the Earl and Countess of Meath and
has been in the Brabazon family since 1618.
You can take a tour of the house, and there’s
a working farm with a farm shop, a cafe, a tea
room, and an excellent year-round Saturday
farmers market.

‘If you walk the canals, you can look out
over the ha-ha, a sunken ditch. It meant you
didn’t need a fence so the landscape was
uninterrupted,’ says Seamus. ‘You have this
lovely Elizabethan revival house with a much
earlier garden surrounding it, and then this
grand perspective leading away from it.’

Views Another grand Wicklow stately home
is Russborough House & Parklands
(russborough.ie), where you can tour the
1740s Palladian mansion and admire its art

A Garden
Lover’s Tips

If you love giant trees, head
to Powerscourt, which
includes the tallest tree in
Ireland (a 61.5m Douglas
fir) and miles of stately
beech trees.

Killruddery has miles of
tree-lined walks and a con-
servatory filled with marble
statues gathered from
a former Earl of Meath’s
Grand Tour. The beech and
hornbeam hedges turn
russet colour in autumn
and are magical.

Mount Usher is lovely
in spring for naturalised
bulbs. Alpine squills, a
spring bulb, turn the lawns
blue in places.

Recommended by Seamus
O’Brien, head gardener,
National Botanic Gardens,
Kilmacurragh

Left Killruddery House & Gardens
Below Mount Usher gardens

collection, or explore the grounds and walking
trails, enjoying views over the lakes of Blessington
and the Wicklow Mountains.

‘What’s lovely about Russborough is the historic
landscape the house sits so comfortably in – the
huge beech trees, the views of the Blessington
Lake and the classical facade of the magnificent
manor house,’ says Seamus. ‘It is wonderful in
spring for bulbs and the secret Spring Garden is
full of wonderful rhododendrons.’

Wild flowers The original house and early gardens
at the National Botanic Gardens, Kilmacurragh
(botanicgardens.ie) date from 1697 and the
comparatively modern, wild garden was created
in the 1850s. The house is yet to be restored, but
you can walk among 150-year-old oriental spruces
or Japanese red cedars, or an ancient avenue of
yew trees.

There are free garden tours and as well as car-
pets of pink petals in spring from the Himalayan
rhododendrons, you can see Chilean myrtles with
rust-coloured barks, King Billy pines from Tasma-
nia and 30ft fuchsias from New Zealand. ‘I really
like the wildness of the garden,’ says Seamus. ‘We
don’t have closely cropped lawns, we have wild-
flower meadows with thousands of wild orchids in
summertime. It’s a wild, romantic garden.’

LEFT: EYE UBIQUITOUS/UNIVERSAL IMAGES GROUP VIA GETTY IMAGES ©
RIGHT: PAUL & PAVEENA MCKENZIE/GETTY IMAGES ©

08

The Garden of

IRELAND

FOOD | DRINK | NATURE

Wicklow’s enchanting scenery has earned it a nickname as ‘the Garden
of Ireland’, but its lush green landscape is more than just a pretty picture: some
of Ireland’s finest food is harvested from the county’s fertile hills and meadows,
and is lovingly crafted by local producers. You can sample wild berry wines, take
a distillery tour or taste wild food on a foraging walk.

How to

Getting here Hiring a car
is best as public trans-
port is limited, usually
requiring multiple bus
journeys.

When to go Spring is
the best time to see
Wicklow’s bright yellow
gorse and abundance

of wild flowers. Autumn
is best for foraging wild
mushrooms.

Scenic train ride If
you’ve lots of spare time
take the DART from
Dublin along the coast to
the pretty seaside town
of Greystones, then local
buses or taxis from there.

FOTOGRAFIE - SCHMIDT/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

ROMAN_OVERKO/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Left Powerscourt Distillery Far left
top Wild cooking demonstration Far
left bottom Seasonal berries

Nature’s pantry Take a foraging walk along quiet country
lanes with local expert Geraldine Kavanagh from Wicklow
Wild Foods (wicklowwildfoods.com) who honed her skills in
the hills surrounding her Wicklow home. Learn how to identify
and cook with truly organic, wild seasonal feasts of local
fruits, flowers, nuts and an array of mushrooms and tender
leaves. Visit in spring and Geraldine will share her recipes for
gorse-flower ice cream and wild garlic pesto.

Wild wines Irish berries are the superstars at Wicklow Way
Wines (wicklowwaywines.ie). Pamela and Brett have brought
their passion for Irish food and nature into handcrafting
award-winning wines, using the finest locally grown fruits.
Brett will guide you through the winery from pressing fruit
to processing in their production room. Afterwards, sample
strawberry, blackberry and raspberry wines with perfectly
paired Irish cheeses and chocolates.

Whiskey and history The whiskey tasting at Powerscourt
Distillery (powerscourtdistillery.com) is far from typical.
Santina Kennedy has brought her expertise and passion for
the history of Irish food to the Fercullen, Food and Folklore
tour, where Fercullen Whiskey is paired with local wild and
artisan foods (ask Santina for her wild berry cocktail reci-
pes). Fercullen was the ancient Gaelic name given to these
lands where the whiskey’s barley is now sowed. The Old Mill
House, the estate’s historic hub of farming, houses part of
the distillery.

Best Food
Experiences

Wild cooking Go wild
camping in the woods
with Tipi Adventures
(tipiadventures.ie), where
you’ll feast on wild and
local food, such as tradi-
tional, grass-fed Wicklow
lamb, cooked on an open
fire. Learning the art of
wild cooking is part of
Tipi’s bush craft courses,
hosted in a tranquil forest
by the River Avonmore.

Food festivals At the
end of June or beginning
of July, there’s Taste of
Wicklow (tasteofwicklow.
ie), the biggest foodie
event of the year. During
the October bank holiday
weekend there’s October
Feast (wicklownaturally.
ie/events). In winter, tuck
into artisan food and craft
beers at the Christmas
Market (wicklowchristmas
market.com).

DIRK HUDSON/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

09

Seaside

VENTURES

ADVENTURE | OUTDOORS | BEACH

Wicklow may be known for its mountains and fertile fields, but it’s also
blessed with a beautiful coastline of long sandy beaches, hidden coves and
sheltered harbours. Calm waters create the perfect environment for fun-filled
adventures such as diving off rocks, exploring caves by kayak or surfing and
balancing on an SUP like a pro. Seals and dolphins regularly pop up to visit.

How to

Getting here/around
Bray and Wicklow are
easily accessed by public
transport from Dublin
but you need to drive to
Brittas Bay.

When to go Summertime
means warmer weather
but also school holidays,

so it gets very busy on
the coast. If you’re not
used to swimming in cold
water, July and August
are best.

Thar she blows Peak
season for wildlife is
June to September, with
sightings of dolphins and
minke whales.

AKSRU44/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

KEITHGORDONPHOTOGRAPHY/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Sea kayaking Suitable for everyone from beginners to
seasoned paddlers, sea kayaking with Bray Adventures
(brayadventures.ie) is a great way to experience Wicklow’s
secret coves. Try a taster session in the safety of Bray Harbour
to learn the basics. If the sea is rough, classes are held in the
tranquil Dargle River by the harbour. Their expert guides can
take you on a wild coastal kayak tour beneath Bray Head,
where you’ll meet curious seals and learn about migrating
species at the nearby protected bird sanctuary.

Coasteering Cliff jumping, caving and sea swimming your
way around some of Wicklow’s coastal hidden gems is a
guaranteed adrenaline rush. Bray Adventures are the only
coasteering operators in Dublin and Wicklow – they know the
best spots.

Surf’s up One of the finest Blue Flag beaches in the country is
Brittas Bay, a 5km golden stretch suitable for both swim-
mers and surfers. Beginners can learn with Brittas Bay Surf
School (brittasbaysurfschool.com) and more experienced
surfers take on the offshore waves solo with two-hour surf
rentals. The school’s kids camps are great fun, with beach
games and gentle waves to learn on.

Boat trips Head out to sea on an angling adventure with
Wicklow Boat Charters (wicklowboatcharters.ie). Common
catches include smooth hound, pollock, dog fish and mack-
erel. Or just chill out on a scenic boat trip to take in historic
sights and marine life.

Left Sea kayaking, Bray Far left top
Brittas Bay Far left bottom Grey seal

Surfing & SUP:
Local Tips

Manager at Brittas Bay
Surf School, Hugh Arthur
(@hugharthur) has been
surfing for 30 years. One
of his favourite spots to
surf is Magheramore
Beach – a much smaller,
less well known beach
than Brittas Bay. Here,
the tides and weather
can create the perfect
combination for swells
suitable for intermediate
surfers.

Hugh recommends
the trip from Wicklow
Harbour to Wicklow
Lighthouse as one of the
county’s finest SUP ex-
periences. There’s strong
tidal currents so you need
to be experienced to do it
alone. Alternatively, Hugh
leads tours along this
gorgeous stretch of coast.

NIALL CARSON/PA IMAGES VIA GETTY IMAGES ©

10

Wandering

WICKLOW

OUTDOORS | HIKING | NATURE

From climbing the highest
peak in the region, to scenic
hikes above ancient glacial
valleys, secluded woodland
strolls or coastal trails, Wicklow
is a walker’s paradise. Its close
proximity to Dublin makes it
easily accessible even on a day
trip.

How to

Getting here Hiring a
car is the best option.
Most trailheads are
not serviced by public
transport, but there is a
service to Glendalough
Valley (glendalough
bus.com).

When to go Summer
days are ideal, but be
prepared for busy trails.
Spring and autumn
are quieter and bring
bursts of colour.

What to pack Some-
times it’s four seasons
in one day – pack
layers, rain gear and
sturdy walking boots.

Wilderness & Waterfalls

The 20km-long Glenmalure Valley is wonder-
fully wild and remote, and it’s easy to see how
Irish rebels used the rugged terrain to hold off
English troops for centuries. A rebel memorial
and the remains of historic lead mines are
within walking distance of Baravore Carpark.
From here, there’s a short (3km) but steep trail
through Baravore Forest to Fraughan Rock
Glen and waterfall, an enchanting place with
a fairy-tale setting and incredible shades of
green. Keep an eye out for feral goats, descen-
dants of the lead mines’ herd.

Take the short Miner’s Path from Ballina-
funshogue Waterfall for sweeping views
across the valley and cascading Carroways-
tick Waterfall (spot the whitewashed stone
cottage at its base, once a rebel safe house).
This steep trail joins the Wicklow Way, one of

Lofty Peak

Leinster’s highest mountain,
Lugnaquilla (925m), is a
strenuous but rewarding
climb (five to eight hours).
The weather is changeable,
so only experienced hikers
should attempt it solo. If hiring
a local guide, make sure they
have the accredited Mountain
Leader Qualification.

Recommended by Russell
Mills, guide at Mountaintrails
@mnttrailsie

Left Lugnaquilla Above left Glendalough
Valley (p94) Above right Lough Tay (p94)

ANNA GORIN/GETTY IMAGES ©

RR PHOTO/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

KRZYSZTOF SKALNY/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Europe’s best multiday hikes. From here it’s
14km to Glendalough, one of the easier (and
most scenic) sections of the Wicklow Way.
Hiking gear essential.

Bird’s-Eye Views

The colour-coded routes in Glendalough Val-
ley are easy to follow. The Spinc ridge, a 3½-
hour strenuous, uphill hike, is busy but worth it
for its dramatic viewing point 500m above the
lakes. Keep an eye out for herds of sika deer.

One of the most accessible summits is
Djouce Mountain (725m). Park at JB Malone
Memorial car park. After a short (300m)
steep climb to the memorial for views of
Lough Tay, the summit is 8km further, mostly
along a boardwalk. The panorama spans 360
degrees. Boots and warm layers are essential.

Secret Valleys

Some lesser known but no less beautiful trails
are to be found in Wicklow’s secluded valleys

Post-Hike
Therapy

From September to April, in
a meadow opposite Glen-
malure Lodge (good for
fireside pints and delicious
food), there’s an outdoor
wood-fired sauna on the
banks of the River Avonbeg
for walkers to soothe their
tired bodies after a long
day’s hike. After sweating
in the Bosca Beatha
(boscabeatha.ie), experi-
ence total connection with
nature by dipping into the
cool, clear plunge pool
that’s fed by the river. For
an extra stretch of those
muscles, take a yoga class
inside Bosca Beatha’s Yurt
Space with energy practi-
tioner Shirley Fitzpatrick.
It’s advisable to book both
online in advance.

Left Clara Vale Nature Reserve Below
Wicklow Head Lighthouse

filled with ancient woodland and host to an abun-
dance of wildlife. Devil’s Glen has an enchanting
woodland trail (4km) that follows the words of
the poet Seamus Heaney and has sculptures by
world-renowned artists. Follow the Waterfall Walk
(5km) to the powerful Devil’s Glen Waterfall.

Riverside hikes The Avonmore Way (An Abhainn
Mhór is Irish for ‘big river’) is a 12km hike that
traverses Clara Vale Nature Reserve. At the
reserve entrance, around 200m north of the
stone-arched Clara Vale Bridge, there’s also a
couple of easy looped walks ranging from 2km
to 9.5km, colour-coded for easy navigation. The
reserve includes some of Ireland’s few remaining
oak stands. Pack a picnic for a tranquil rest beside
the slow-moving Avonmore, where hot tired feet
can be dipped into the cool clear waters.

Coastal trails A short train ride from Dublin, the
7km Bray to Greystones Cliff Walk is perfect for
a sunny day trip with sea views and delicious food
– try the Happy Pear (p96) in Greystones. Sections
of the walk may close occasionally due to coastal
erosion, so be sure to follow detour signposts.
The more rugged Glen Beach Cliff Walk (4km)
from south of Wicklow Town to historic Wicklow
Head Lighthouse, takes in secret coves and a
seal colony. Sometimes it’s also possible to spot
dolphins. Proper footwear is essential as the trail
can get mucky.

LEFT: DESIGN PICS / THE IRISH IMAGE COLLECTION/GETTY IMAGES ©
RIGHT: ALAN_KINSELLA/GETTY IMAGES ©

Listings

BEST OF THE REST

Fresh-Air Attractions

Wicklow Mountains National Park

Explore a walking trail, climb a mountain, see
wildlife, stroll around a lake or take a scenic
drive in this beautiful national park.

Glendalough Monastic Settlement

This peaceful settlement at Glendalough
dates back to the 6th century and includes a
round tower and the ruins of a cathedral and
stone churches, plus old gravestones.

Sally Gap

Drive the R115, known as the Old Military Rd,
to pass Sally Gap. You’ll traverse some of the
wildest, most scenic landscape in the county.

Greenan Maze

Get lost in a 7ft-high maze covering half an
acre, or try the solstice maze for a more med-
itative experience. There’s also a farm, farm
museum and fairy-tree walk.

Active Adventures

Wicklow Way

Take six or seven days to walk this 129km route
from Marlay Park in South County Dublin to
Clonegal in County Carlow, passing through
some of Wicklow’s most spectacular scenery.

Ballinastoe Mountain Bike Trail

The forest here, just north of Roundwood, has
14km of demanding MTB trails, some which
come out at spectacular views over Lough Tay.

Brennanstown Riding School

Take a horse-riding lesson, or try a scenic
cross-country trek from Brennanstown
through some of the County Wicklow country-
side on a half- or full-day excursion.

Tour Around

Day Trips

There are lots of tour companies that will
bring you on a day trip by bus to Glendalough,
Avoca village and through the Wicklow Moun-
tains from Dublin city centre, usually leaving
from Dublin city’s O’Connell St.

Wicklow Gaol

You might meet some interesting characters
when exploring the Gaol – take the Gates of
Hell virtual reality tour or a night tour if you
are brave enough.

Animal Encounters

Glenroe Farm

Have fun with rabbits and guinea pigs in the
pet farm, learn about the bigger farm animals,
take a nature walk or try the maze.

K2 Alpacas

Take a walk with a friendly alpaca in New-
townmountkennedy. As you learn about these
curious animals, you’ll hear them humming to
each other.

Sealife

Get up close and personal with some friendly
rays, find out how sharks start life in special
pouches, gawp at clownfish and more in this
great aquarium on Bray’s seafront.

Tasty Treats

Happy Pear €

Get a dose of positivity at this wholefood cafe
and shop in Greystones, set up by twins Dave
and Steve, who are passionate about plant-
based food.

Firehouse Bakery €

This artisan bakery in Delgany turns out all
types of fresh bread and pastries from its
wood stove every morning – try the ice cream
during summer season.

Platform Pizza Bar €

Tuck into a slow-roast pulled-pork pizza or a
vegan special on a spelt base, and sip a Bray
Bré cocktail in this popular spot in Bray town.

Burrito Box €

Sizzling burritos, nachos and sweet potato
fries are conjured up and served from this
food truck at the Boatyard in Greystones.

Country Cooking

Hunter’s Hotel €€€

This old-style family-run hotel in Rathnew is
open for breakfast, lunch, dinner and after-
noon tea – enjoy a stroll in the gardens.

Strawberry Tree €€€

Have a fully organic meal at Brooklodge
hotel’s restaurant in Macreddin Village, with
lots sourced or foraged locally – peek into its
pantry, which is a treasure trove of wild foods.

Ballyknocken Cookery School €€€

Learn to make your own dish in the setting of
this country house, run by TV chef Catherine
Fulvio, using ingredients from the garden.

Poppies €

Gorgeous home-style country cooking in
Enniskerry village. Pop in for tea and cakes, a
light lunch or a filling quiche or pie.

Irish Gifts & Local Treasures

Avoca

Browse for Irish gifts and homewares such as
luxury throws, candles, cookbooks and crafts.
The Kilmacanogue emporium also has a food
market, cafe and the Fern House restaurant.

Greenan Maze

Fishers

This family-run shop in Newtownmount-
kennedy is the place to stock up on country
casual clothing. You will also find Irish gifts
and there’s also a shop selling local produce.

Tinahely Farm Shop

There’s lots to do here. Have a look around the
food and gift shop – there’s also a restaurant,
farm animals and a children’s activity barn.

Boat Yard Gallery

Pick some local art and photography in this
gallery, set in the small Boat Yard courtyard
near Greystones Harbour.

Craft Tipples

Wicklow Wolf

Look out for IPAs and the smokey bacon-
flavoured Ranchero Rauchbier from this
Wicklow craft brewery, served in many of the
county’s pubs and off-licences.

Glendalough Distillery

Seasonal botanical gins made from wild in-
gredients foraged from Wicklow’s forests. This
distillery also produces whiskey aged in casks
made from sustainably sourced, local oak.

Scan for things to see, do
and try in Wicklow

PETER KROCKA/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

THE
SOUTHEAST

BEACHES | ADVENTURE | SPORTS

Saltee Islands

► Wexford Beach Life
(p104)

► When Spielberg
Stormed Curraclose
(p108)

► Family Thrilles in
Kilkenny (p110)

► The Game of Hurling
(p112)

► Copper Coast &
Mahon Falls (p116)

► Breathtaking
Waterford (p118)

► Listings (p120)

Jakub Wojciechowski/shutterstock ©

THE
SOUTHEAST

Trip Builder

Sandy adventures, city festivals and fun-filled family
days await in the Southeast. Catch a hurling match or soak
up medieval history in Kilkenny, explore Waterford’s glorious
Unesco geopark, then hit the beaches in Wexford.

Catch a hurling match in
Kilkenny city, home of the
Cats (p112)

½ day

See what’s in bloom or rent
the historic Lismore Castle
(p120)

1-2 days

Explore geographical wonders
at the Unesco Copper Coast
Geopark (p116)

1 day

Ride the zipline and
take a treetop walk at
Castlecomer Discovery
Park (p111)

1 day

Climb the cliffs then
go for a swim at
Ballymoney Beach
(p105)

1 day

Discover why Curracloe
Beach was so important to
Steven Spielberg (p108)

½ day

Hike over golden
sand dunes on the
Furlongs Road Loop
(p106)

½ day

Experience the
southern sunset by
kayak around Hook
Head (p107)

½ day

Sail to the rugged Saltee
Islands (p107)

1 day

VEEJEY/SHUTTERSTOCK ©,
ROSS MAHON/SHUTTERSTOCK ©,
EDUARDO FONSECA ARRAES/GETTY IMAGES ©,
ANDREA PISTOLESI/GETTY IMAGES ©

Practicalities

ARRIVING

Kilkenny MacDonagh Train Station Direct
connections to Waterford; buses park outside.
Wexford O’Hanrahan Railway Station Direct
routes from Dublin, with a stop for Rosslare
Strand beach.

Waterford Plunkett Train Station Five-minute
walk to city centre.

HOW MUCH
FOR A

99 ice cream
€2

Hurling match
ticket €35

Pint of Smith-
wicks €4.50

WHEN TO GO

JAN - MAR

Cool, fresh weather. Ideal for city
breaks and inland exploring.

APR - JUN

Warmer days. Beach and tourist
season building up.

JUL - SEP

Mostly warm weather. Busy
coast in July.

OCT - DEC

Expect colder, wetter days.
Snuggle up by the fire.

GETTING AROUND

Car The most convenient way to
get around, and a popular way to
explore the Southeast coast while
beach-hopping.

Train Connections from Dublin to
Kilkenny city, Waterford city and
Wexford towns. Bear in mind that
there’s only one Waterford stop,
so you may need to get a bus or a
taxi to more remote areas.

SURA ARK/MOMENT MOBILE/GETTY IMAGES ©

EATING & DRINKING

Jackford Potato Gin Delightful, earthy potato-based spirit from
Enniscorthy.

Blaa Special, doughy, white Waterford bread. Protected Geographical
Indication status by the European Commission. Try in Barron’s Bakery,
Cappoquin.

Must-try black pudding

Anocht (p121) in Kilkenny
specialises in modern Irish
cuisine and serves an excellent
black pudding terrine.

Best ice cream

99s and whipped sundaes at
Henry’s in Campile (p105).

CONNECT & FIND YOUR WAY

Wi-fi Wi-fi and 4G phone coverage
is generally good across Kilkenny,
Wexford and Waterford. Connec-
tivity is set to further improve
when a new high-speed fibre
broadband network is rolled out
to rural locations.

Navigation Maps, guides and
traveller information are available
in tourism offices in Kilkenny,
Waterford and Wexford towns.

FOOD THE WATERFORD WAY

Find the location of local food
producers, restaurants, food
stores and farmers markets on
the Food the Waterford Way map
(foodthewaterfordway.com).

WHERE TO STAY

Place

Pro/Con

Waterford City

Hotels and guesthouses on the river. Tourist
hotspot, book early.

Kilkenny City

Hostels to luxury hotels. Hen party capital of
Ireland; noisy.

Rosslare

Beachside, best for families & walkers. Popu-
lar, but limited accommodation.

Nire Valley

Eco-camping and glamping. Public transport
limited.

MONEY

Cash and cards are both widely accepted in towns
and cities. Bring cash for ice creams by the beach.

TOP: RICHLEGG/GETTY IMAGES ©
BOTTOM: PABLO STRONG/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

11

Wexford Beach

LIFE

FAMILY | ADVENTURE | COAST

Famous for its superb
beaches, Wexford is worthy of
time spent acquainting yourself
with its coastline. The area has
some of the cleanest strands in all
of Ireland – perfect for family days
out and some R&R.

Sandy days out Visit Kilgorman Strand and
soak in the 2.5km full length of the beach,
which includes the soft sands of Clone
Strand. There is no carpark here, so locals
tend to park along the road to access it. The
beach is wide with plenty of space for families
to lounge and swim in the ocean.

Go swimming at Ballymoney Beach. This
popular, safe, bathing spot has lifeguards
during peak season (July to August) as well as
access to public toilets. If visiting in summer,
head down early to nab a parking spot.

Further south, the unspoilt Duncannon
Beach (just outside the village) is a joy on
a warm day. There’s parking at the water’s
edge or you can drive onto the golden sand.
The beach has great views of Hook Head and
hosts an annual Sand Sculpting Festival (early
August).

How to

Getting here Travel to
Wexford from Dublin
by car (less than two
hours) for easy beach
access, or take the
train direct to Rosslare
Strand.

When to go Wexford
is called the ’Sunny
Southeast’ for a reason:

it has many sunshine
hours throughout the
year. May/June is ideal
for sunbathing on the
beaches.

Best dunes Visit
Ballyteige Burrow to
see one of the best
sand dune systems in
Ireland.

Cool as Ice

Wexford’s coastal vibes go
hand in hand with ice-cream
blowouts. Locals love the
99s and whipped sundaes
from Henry’s in Campile,
or try locally made Scúp
gelato from Bella Napoli in
Kilmuckridge. If you’re taking
a stroll on Rosslare Strand,
nab a delicious tub or cone at
Izmoo Gelato.

Left Ballymoney Beach Above left
Morriscastle Beach (p106) Above right
Hook Lighthouse

4H4 PHOTOGRAPHY/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

PETER KROCKA/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

VEEJEY/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Known as the ‘Golden Mile’, the glorious
Morriscastle Beach in Kilmuckridge is also
lifeguarded during peak season. Morriscastle
is a clean, family-friendly beach bordered by
dunes that provide welcome shelter from the
breeze.

Active adventures Pull on a wetsuit and
take to the water on a stand-up paddleboard
(SUP) or try a kitesurfing lesson with Hooked
Kite Surfing (hookedkitesurfing.ie). The
company’s base, Duncannon Beach, hosts

Wexford’s annual Hooked Kitefest each
August.

Take a hike Wexford’s great walks include the
4.5km Furlongs Road Loop, where you can
take pathways along the beach or through
the dunes. The higher dunes have incredible
views of the entire area, including Ballyteige
Castle and Forth Mountain.

Wexford from the Water

For one of the best coastal experiences

Best Family
Experiences

Curracloe Strand Take
surf lessons at Surf Shack
or hike and bike the
walking trail at Ravenwood
through the forest to the
beach.

Duncannon Beach Shal-
low water and lifeguards
mean a safe swim. For
younger children there’s a
great playground just off
the beach in the dunes.

Ballymoney Beach
Explore the rockpools
between the two beaches
and climb the cliffs for
amazing views – you can
see all the way to Wales on
a clear day.

Carne Beach Go horse
riding on the beach with
Hazelwood Stables.

Recommended by Sinéad
Fox, mum and blogger at
BumblesofRice.com
@bumblesofrice

Wexford has to offer, head to Fethard-on-Sea
village and join a sunset kayaking tour with
The Irish Experience (theirishexperience.
com). You’ll be accompanied by a local guide,
who will lead a paddle around the Hook Head
coastline to explore sea caves, arches and
glorious sea cliffs. Curious seals may join in
the fun, and if you’re really lucky you might
even spot dolphins and basking sharks while
pottering about this impressive habitat. After-
wards, you’ll be plied with hot chocolate while
bobbing on the water, with a front-row seat to
see the sun sink beneath the horizon. You’ll
need at least three hours for the evening out.

Sailing Great Saltee Take a family sailing
trip with Saltee Ferry (salteeferry.com). Just
5km from Kilmore Quay, the islands are home
to an array of birds such as guillemots and
razorbills. Colourful puffins arrive in April
and stay until mid-August. Plan a trip in early
summer to enjoy a sea of bluebells.

If you prefer to keep your feet on terra fir-
ma, The Irish Experience also runs self-guided
cycle tours and hiking experiences around
Wexford. For something more adventurous,
there’s also coastal canyoneering.

Left Carne Beach Right Puffin,
Saltee Islands

LEFT: KSTUART/SHUTTERSTOCK ©
RIGHT: PAUL MAXWELL 23PHOTOGRAPHY/GETTY IMAGES ©

When
Spielberg
Stormed
Curracloe

AN EXTRA’S INSIGHT
TO THE HOLLYWOOD
BLOCKBUSTER

In the summer of
1997, a sandy strand
in County Wexford
was transformed into
Normandy’s Omaha
Beach and featured
in what is perhaps
one of the greatest
opening scenes of
any WWII movie.
A massive success,
Saving Private Ryan
brought in £4 million
to the Wexford
economy and left a
lasting legacy.

When Steven Spielberg chose Curracloe Strand for the
D-Day scenes in his wartime epic Saving Private Ryan, it
may have been a surprising choice to many, but locals
knew the value of this stretch of sand. Running for 11km,
the beach is popular with locals for bracing walks, but
for Spielberg its size meant ample room to play out the
large-scale, tense D-Day landings of 1944. The scenes
shot on Curracloe Strand replay the fateful attack by US
infantry, who landed at Normandy’s Omaha Beach in their
thousands in an effort to quash German artillery on the
beach heights, creating a giant killing zone.

More than 1000 extras were used on Curracloe. Tipper-
ary-man Mick Delahunty, a former member of the FCA (An
Fórsa Cosanta Áitiúil; now the Reserve Defence Forces),
was one of them, and remembers it well. He spent 4½
weeks on set in one of the core army groups, working clos-
est with the main cast. Spielberg’s team approached the
Irish army to recruit extras because of their experience
of conflict and their discipline, according to Mick. ‘They
wanted people who knew what to do,’ he says – capturing
the tension and bleakness of WWII was no easy feat.

For Mick’s audition, he had to swim lengths of a pool
wearing a tracksuit to see how he would cope with po-
tential conditions. Extras were bused down to the beach
each day and they also had a historian on set who told
them exactly what they were doing to simulate the D-Day
landings. Although Irish summers typically have their fair
share of cloudy days, to Spielberg’s dismay 1997 was a
sunny year. To emulate the grim reality of those war days

Left and right Scenes from the 1998
film Saving Private Ryan Middle
Curracloe Beach

CBS PHOTO ARCHIVE/GETTY IMAGES ©

in Normandy, the director was forced to resort to lighting fires
to add murkiness to the filming.

Like any Hollywood set, there was an emphasis on secrecy
and some of the extras were sent home after getting caught
with cameras. It was only on the last day of shooting that Mick
says extras were told, ‘Look, guys, we know you don’t have
cameras, but if you just happen to have one by accident…’ He

adds: ‘You’d want to see the
amount of cameras that
came out of people’s pock-
ets!’ Photographs that Mick
took that day, including one
of him with Tom Hanks, are
now proudly on display in
the Templemore Arms Hotel
in County Tipperary.

When Saving Private Ryan
hit cinemas the following
year, it grossed more than

US$481 million at the box office. It was nominated for 11
Academy Awards and won five, including one for Spielberg for
Best Director. The film’s harrowing Omaha Beach scenes are
considered one of the closest film adaptations of the real-life
experiences of the Normandy landings, and remain highly
influential.

As well as Saving Private Ryan, Mick has been an extra
on Braveheart and The Last Duel, and can now say that he’s
worked with Spielberg, Mel Gibson and Ridley Scott. ‘Not bad
for a lad that’s only an extra!’ he jokes.

Spielberg’s team
approached the Irish
army to recruit extras
because of their
experience of conflict
and their discipline

Real-Life Curracloe

This wonderful sandy beach
was chosen for its geographi-
cal similarity to Omaha Beach.
These days, it’s still a local
favourite with soft, fine white
sand that’s ideal underfoot.
A blanket of green marram
grass covers the surrounding
sand dunes and adds to the
serene atmosphere.

Curracloe Beach is well
known for being particularly
safe for bathers and has
an International Blue Flag
– awarded due to its clean-
liness. Lifeguards look after
swimmers during bathing
season (July to August).

Parking is plentiful, with
three sites to aim for: White
Gap, Ballinesker and Culle-
ton’s Gap.

IRISH DRONE PHOTOGRAPHY/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

CBS/GETTY IMAGES ©

12

Family Thrills in

KILKENNY

NATURE | ACTIVITIES | ANIMALS

Although well known for its medieval history, Kilkenny is also a county
with bountiful opportunities to be outdoors in nature. Families will love it here,
where small kids can get up close and personal with farm animals or experience
woodland romps, and kids big and small can run riot with ziplines, mountain
biking and kayaking.

How to

Getting around Having
your own transport is
advised, to ensure you
can visit the attractions
outside the city and stop
for walks, picnics and
photos.

When to go Many
outdoor activities run
year-round, but you’ll get
the best out of them from
March to September.

Top tip If your kids like
sports, they might be
fascinated by the local
obsession: hurling. Ask
about the best upcoming
matches.

MARIUS ROMAN/GETTY IMAGES ©

BOULENGER XAVIER/SHUTTERSTOCK©

Castlecomer Discovery Park

Active families will be thrilled with the adventures on offer at
Castlecomer Discovery Park (discoverypark.ie). Housed in the
former grounds of the Wandesforde Estate, the park is spread
over 80 acres of woodlands and lakes. Activities range from
Ireland’s longest zipline and treetop walks to archery, kayak-
ing, orienteering and mountain biking.

’Seeing families connect with nature, while doing physical
activity brings a smile to my face,’ explains Kathy Purcell,
general manager of the Discovery Park. ‘This is a keystone of
our philosophy.’

For the under-sevens, there is a magical elf and fairy village,
bouncing net and a woodland adventure playground housed
in the trees. Suitable for over-sevens, the treetop walk is a
140m-long walk in the trees, suspended 10m above the forest
floor. For over-12s, the zipline is more than 300m long and
crosses two lakes and a bridge. It can be booked in conjunc-
tion with the Octagon high-ropes course, which is a more
challenging version of the treetop walk. All are designed to test
your agility and give tremendous views over the woodland.

There is also the Castlecomer Craft Yard featuring artists,
ceramicists, potters and jewellers, the Coal Mining Museum
and the gastro-style family Jarrow Restaurant. Opened as
a community project in 2007, Castlecomer Discovery Park
attracts over 100,000 visitors each year and has won awards
for Community Forestry and Social Enterprises.

The park is a 20-minute drive north of Kilkenny city.

Left Castlecomer Discovery Park
Far left top Kilkenny Castle Far left
bottom Art installation, Kilkenny
Castle

For Young
Explorers

National Reptile Zoo
Learn about ecosystems
and conservation in this
fun, educational city
setting with turtles, taran-
tulas, snakes and lizards.

Shenanigans Tour of
Kilkenny This entertain-
ing city walking tour along
Ireland’s Medieval Mile
blends history with magic,
featuring witches and
knights.

Nore Valley Park In a
peaceful valley a 15-min-
ute drive from Kilkenny
City, this pet farm offers
kids the opportunity to
bottle-feed baby lambs,
hold piglets and interact
with ostriches. Camping
and glamping are also
on-site.

Woodstock Gardens

Overlooking the River
Nore and the beautiful vil-
lage of Inistioge, a 30-min-
ute drive southeast of
Kilkenny City, these
gardens make for a tran-
quil day out amid walled
gardens, an arboretum
and tree-lined avenues.

CASTLECOMER DISCOVERY PARK ©

13

The Game of

HURLING

CULTURE | SPORT | ACTIVITIES

An ancient Irish sport,
hurling is part of the fabric of
Irish society and in Kilkenny it’s
a religion. The local team are
known as the Cats and there’s
nowhere better in Ireland to catch
a match or learn about hurling
traditions.

History of Hurling

Best described as a mixture of baseball and
lacrosse, played with the intensity of ice hock-
ey but on a grass pitch, hurling is likely part of
the evolution of all of those sports.

The origin of hurling is steeped in Irish
legend. Folklore tells that when a teenage
boy called Setanta arrived late for a feast at
Chulainn’s castle, he found the gates already
closed and the feast in full flow. To keep him-
self occupied on the long hike to the castle,
he had been hitting a ball with a stick and
then chasing after it. When Setanta arrived at
the castle, Chulainn’s guard dog (or the Cú in
Irish) was already out patrolling the castle’s
perimeter and Setanta, to preserve his own
life, used his stick to shoot the guard dog with
his ball, killing the unfortunate hound.

How to

Getting there Hurling
pitches are dotted
around the county of
Kilkenny, so often a car
(or bike) is required to
catch matches.

When to go Local club
games take place from
February to November
and happen in the
evening midweek or at
the weekend.

Catch a match There
are 41 clubs and
fixtures can be found
at kilkennygaa.ie/
fixtures-results.

Catching a Live
‘Clash of the Ash‘

The success of hurling in
Kilkenny has been founded
upon club games that run
throughout the spring, sum-
mer and autumn, culminating
in local championship finals.
All the players are amateur,
despite the elevated skill
levels, so the games happen
outside of normal working
hours.

Left Hurling goal posts Above left and
above right Hurling matches

RAY MCMANUS/SPORTSFILE VIA GETTY IMAGES ©

RAY MCMANUS/SPORTSFILE VIA GETTY IMAGES ©

As punishment, Chulainn made Setanta
his new guard dog, and henceforth the boy
became known as Cú Chulainn. Through his
act of self-defence, Setanta invented hurling.
Historians argue that this legend is based on
fact and occurred in the 12th century.

In rural Ireland, there is no greater honour
than playing for your county or indeed win-
ning an All-Ireland final. While hurling is played
by men, the women’s game, called camogie, is
equally as popular and skilful. The All-Ireland

finals in hurling draw the biggest crowd of
any sporting event in Ireland, topping 82,000
spectators.

Experience Hurling

Kilkenny Way Specially designed for inter-
national visitors who are not familiar with
Ireland’s national game, the Kilkenny Way
(thekilkennyway.com) is a guided two-hour
tour that demonstrates hurling to novices like
nothing else. You’ll get the history of the game,

The Craft of
Hurl Making

Fashioned from the wood
of the ash tree (hence the
local term ‘clash of
the ash’ for hurling games),
the hurl is still handmade.
It’s both a work of art and
a sporting implement. The
stick must have a round
grip and a wide bottom,
while remaining flat-faced
and well balanced. A good
springiness is key so that
upon forceful impact the
hurl does not break or
shatter.

Watching a craftsman
fashion a hurl is a uniquely
Irish, centuries-old
tradition. A good place to
see it is at the Star Hurley
workshop (starhurley.ie) in
Jenkinstown.

stories of local legends, and training lessons where
you can learn some of the fundamental skills of
hurling. You’ll also get the chance to visit the home
of ‘the Cats’ – the Kilkenny county team – at Now-
lan Park stadium in Kilkenny city.

Founded on the hurling culture within Kilkenny,
one of Ireland’s most highly decorated counties
in terms of title wins, this is an unparalleled native
Kilkenny experience. The tour is run by ex-
players and starts from PJ Lanigan’s Bar, which
also doubles as an unofficial Hurling Museum.
The bar merits a visit on its own, to browse the
paraphernalia and images. Excellent late-night
Irish music-filled parties (nicknamed ‘hoolies’ by
locals) abound once night falls. Book in advance.

Hands-on games For a more practical approach,
book a tour through Hurling Tours Ireland
(hurlingtoursireland.ie). You’ll get a chance to
score a point on the field of dreams after learning
the history, evolution and basic skills of the world’s
fastest field game. A major focus is fantastic,
practical and enthralling on-field lessons for all the
family, provided by former club hurlers. The tour
is so infectious that some international visitors
have even gone home to join local Irish-run hurling
clubs in their native lands after taking it. A great
group activity. Book online.

Left Camogie match Far left Artisan
shapes a hurl Below Camogie sticks

D. RIBEIRO/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

LEFT: RAMSEY CARDY/SPORTSFILE VIA GETTY IMAGES ©,
RIGHT: D. RIBEIRO/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

14

Copper Coast &

MAHON FALLS

COASTAL | ACTIVE | HISTORY

Geological formations at Waterford’s Copper Coast evoke memories of the
area’s copper-mining heritage. Designated a Unesco Geopark, the coastline is home
to a spectacular Cycling Greenway and the famed Mahon Falls are an easy and
short mountain-view detour from the route. Together, they make one of the most
enjoyable trips in Ireland’s Southeast – whether travelling by car, on foot or by bike.

How to

Getting around The geopark can be travelled by car, by bike or on foot – or all
three in parts. At O’Mahony’s Pub, near Stradbally, bikes can be rented and it’s
a beautiful entry point to the Cycling Greenway.

When to go Warmer temperatures and drier days can be expected from April
to September.

Top tip The Cycling Greenway features plenty of locations for picnics and cafe
stops.

Doneraile
Walk

To escape the
hustle and bustle of
Tramore Beach on
a fine day, try the
Doneraile Walk. This
moderate hike is
generally calmer than
the beach and has
ample seating along
the way, from where
you can admire the
tremendous clifftop
views. It’s 2km one
way to Newtown
Cove.

ANDREA PISTOLESI/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

01 Navigate up the
glaciated Comeragh
Mountains past wander-
ing sheep to the 80m
cascade of Mahon Falls.
An easy, family-friendly
trail with breathtaking
views out to sea from the
summit.

02 From O’Mahony’s Pub, join
the 46km Cycling Greenway
– a disused railway track
that’s now a blissful ride
through a tunnel and over an
ancient stone viaduct.

03 Stunning Annestown
Beach is framed by rug-
ged rock formations and
sea arches. It’s popular
with bathers, as well as
talented local surfers.

04 Beautiful Newtown
Cove is a secluded spot,
ideal for swimming. At
one time, only men were
allowed to swim here.
Look for the old sign and
the painted Metalman
figure.

05 Popular Tramore
Beach stretches for
5km and offers safe
bathing, backed by
some of the highest
sand dunes in
Ireland.

ANDRZEJ BARTYZEL/SHUTTERSTOCK ©,
ANDREA PISTOLESI/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

BREATHTAKING

Waterford

01 Tramore Bay

A long beach, excellent
for swimming. A great
viewing point is the
Doneraile Walk.

02 Guillamene
Swimming Cove

Safe swimming location
with beautiful rocky
surrounds, very popular
with the locals.

03 Durrow Viaduct

Pass over this beautiful
19th-century railway
viaduct as you cycle the
Greenway.

04 Ballyvooney
Cove

When the tide is out,
look for the shipwreck
on the left and explore

the caves to find a
secret beach.

05 Reginald’s
Tower

Built in the 10th century
by the Vikings, this is
Ireland’s oldest civic
building and still in con-
tinuous use.

06 Mahon Falls

The sheep here are used
to such stunning vistas
and the glacial-age
Comeragh Mountains.

07 Newtown Cove

A special seaside picnic
spot, with clifftop tables
offering views across the
entire Tramore Bay.

08 Crough Wood

Lovely stop-off for a
deciduous forest hill
walk in the foothills of
the Comeragh Moun-
tains, on the route to
Dungarvan.

09 Bunmahon
Ogham Stones

On display in a ‘geo-
logical garden’ near
Bunmahon, ancient
Ogham stones are
inscribed with primitive
writing from around the
4th century.

10 Dunmore East
Cliff Walk

Easy 2km walk offering
seascape views – you
may get lucky and see a
passing whale.

11 Greenway Tunnel

Let out a roar and hear
it echo as you cycle
through this 400m
tunnel; a highlight of the
Greenway.

01 Marius Roman/getty images ©, 02 Cliff Green/Alamy Stock Photo ©, 03 Andrea Pistolesi/getty images ©, 04 Andrea Pistolesi/getty images ©, 05
chrisdorney/shutterstock ©, 06 Irish Drone Photography/shutterstock ©, 07 JORGE CORCUERA/shutterstock ©, 08 FIONÁN MCGRATH ©, 09 Fionán
McGrath ©, 10 MidPete/shutterstock ©, 11 Fionán McGrath ©

Listings

BEST OF THE REST

Castles, Cathedrals & Gardens

St Canice’s

Built in the 13th century, this beautifully
preserved cathedral in Kilkenny city features
wonderful stained glass and has a round
tower with fantastic views from the summit.

The Black Abbey

One of the oldest churches in Ireland, the
Black Abbey has served Kilkenny city for
centuries. A fantastic setting for a musical
concert if your timing is right.

Kilkenny Castle

This popular attraction was built after the
Norman conquest of Ireland, but then rebuilt,
extended and adapted over the centuries.
It’s surrounded by 50 acres of park with rose
gardens, woodlands and playgrounds.

Lismore Castle

A walk in the grounds of Waterford’s Lismore
Castle, which has two gardens dating back to
the 17th century, reveals glorious plants, fra-
grant flowers and a working kitchen vegetable
garden.

Irish National Heritage Park

This 40-acre park in Wexford features replica
houses and villages of Ireland’s earliest settlers.

Adrenaline Rush

Axe Junkies

A fun-filled activity for adults (aged 18 and
over) in Waterford city. Sling axes straight into
the bullseye, in a music-filled atmosphere.

Dunmore East Adventure Centre

Located right at the water’s edge where shel-
tered coves offer fantastic natural playgrounds,

this purpose-built facility has a range of water
activities as well as abseiling and archery.

Quadventure

A guaranteed day of mucky thrills and spills
on four-wheels, in the foothills of Wexford’s
Blackstairs Mountains.

The Gap Walk

A 6km round-trip walk in the wonderful
Comeragh Mountains in Waterford, through
a natural pass that has been in use for
centuries.

Suir Valley Railway

Take a unique and special 40-minute train trip
on a narrow-gauge railway dating to 1878. It’s
in Waterford and the route includes fantastic
river valley views.

Arts & Crafts

Nicholas Mosse

Potters have worked on-site at this old stone
mill, on the banks of the River Nore at Ben-
nettsbridge, since 1840. Watch the potters
work, then visit the shop and tea room.

Jerpoint Glass

In Stoneyford, visitors can watch master
glassblowers magically transform molten
liquid glass into intricate shapes.

Made in Kilkenny Craft Trail

Kilkenny has a long-standing reputation as a
hub of creativity, which is beautifully celebrated
on this craft trail featuring potters, glassblow-
ers, metalworkers and many more besides.

The Makers House

A collection of contemporary Irish art, design
and craft, all under one roof in Wexford town.

Seasonal & Farm-to-Table

Everett’s €€

Comfortable and unfussy, this Waterford
bistro offers the best of Irish seasonal ingredi-
ents, housed in a 15th-century building.

Bodega €€

A fun, multiple award-winning dining experi-
ence in Waterford, focusing on quality local
produce from the sea and the farm.

Spinnaker Bar €€

A family-friendly, nautical-themed bar and
seafood restaurant in Dunmore East, with
great atmosphere and service.

Anocht €€

Serving modern Irish and European cuisine,
Anocht is a fine-dining experience housed in
a beautiful historic room above the Kilkenny
Design Centre.

Rive Gauche Kitchen & Cocktails €€

A modern take on traditional elegance, this
chic and sophisticated destination in Kilkenny
city centre allows the food to take centre stage.

Barrow’s Keep €€€

Dedicated to local producers, this farm-to-
table restaurant in Thomastown has a marvel-
lous weekly changing menu.

Silver Fox Seafood Restaurant €€€

This Irish and seafood restaurant in Kilmore
Quay, Wexford, is famous for fresh and locally
caught seafood.

Fine Dining

Restaurant Lady Anne €€€

An elegant and intimate Georgian dining room
in the restored Creamery House at Castle-
comer. Lady Anne uses local produce and
offers a fantastic tasting menu.

Tannery Restaurant €€€

One of Waterford’s best restaurants, in Dun-
garvan, with creative, delicious and attractive-
ly presented dishes.

Ristorante Rinuccini €€€

This family-owned, awarding-winning restau-
rant has been at the centre of Kilkenny for
over 30 years, offering classic Italian fare.

Beaches Restaurant €€€

Situated in Kelly’s Hotel Rosslare, this
award-winning restaurant has a renowned
wine list to accompany the daily changing
seasonal menu.

Cheap Eats

Vee Bistro €

A relaxed and contemporary bistro in the cen-
tre of Tramore, offering Irish and European fare.

Cathedral Café €

Soups, snacks, drinks and desserts are avail-
able at this quaint cafe housed in St Mary’s
Cathedral, Kilkenny.

Ohana Café €

Just north of Wexford town in Fahey’s Cross,
this cafe features budget-friendly tasty treats.
Great for lunch.

The Yard Café €

Situated in the heart of Kilkenny city, the Yard
Café has access to a lot of outdoor seating
and is a great spot to watch the world go by.

The Olive Café €

A great place for a traditional Irish breakfast in
Waterford city.

CORK

CULTURE | HISTORY | COAST

Experience
Cork
online

Mizen Head

► The Culinary Capital
(p128)

► The Wonderful Wild
West (p130)

► Castles & Stately
Homes (p134)

► Islands & Beaches
(p138)

► Stroll Through Cork
City (p142)

► Charting the English
Market (p144)

► Listings (p146)

MONICAMI/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

CORK

Trip Builder

Cork is the largest county in Ireland and as the locals
will tell you, there’s nowhere quite like it. Home to an incredible
coastline, rugged natural beauty and rich, fascinating history,
‘The Rebel County’ has something for everyone.

Take the cable car to
Dursey Island and meet
the resident artists (p139)

1-2 days

Drive 70km of dramatic
coastline on the Sheep’s
Head Peninsula drive
(p133)

1-3 days

Make a splash with a
whale-watching trip in
Baltimore (p140)

½ day

Brave the bridge-crossing
at remote Mizen Head
(p133)

½ day

Explore bookable
experiences in
Cork online

Kiss the stone for the ‘gift of
the gab’ at Blarney Castle
(p135)

½ day

Explore the colourful
seaside town of Kinsale,
Ireland’s gourmet capital
(p129)

1 day

Surf the waves or explore the
dunes at Inchydoney Beach
(p141)

½ day

Tour the gardens, see
exotic wildlife or golf at
Fota Island (p137)

1 day

Enjoy the best of Cork city
on a self-guided walking tour
(p142)

1 day

Sample local produce
at Midleton Farmers
Market (p147)

½ day

OBLADATEL/SHUTTERSTOCK ©,
NIALL_MAJURY/GETTY IMAGES ©,
ALGIRDAS GELAZIUS/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Practicalities

ARRIVING

Cork Airport 10km southwest of the city. Bus 226
connects the airport, city centre, bus and train
stations hourly. Allow 20 to 35 minutes. Adult
single €2.80; cash only. Taxis cost around €25.
Car rental available, best booked in advance.
Kent Train Station Bus 205 connects the city
centre but it’s a short walk. Taxis start at €5
up to €20 for most city-centre destinations.
Cork Bus Station Located on Parnell Place in
the city centre.

WHEN TO GO

JAN - MAR

Cold, dark evenings, perfect for
the pub and Paddy’s Day parades.

APR - JUN

Warmer weather, seasonal attractions
open, Midsummer Festival.

JUL - SEP

Best weather, foodie festival
Taste of West Cork.

OCT - DEC

Guinness Cork Jazz Festival and
Kinsale Gourmet Festival time.

HOW MUCH
FOR A

Pint of Beamish
€5

Locally roasted
coffee €3.50

Potato pie
€1.80

GETTING AROUND

Bicycle Cork city is compact and
very walkable, but for a change
of pace there’s also a bike-share
system with stations at most of
the city’s tourist attractions. A
3-day subscription is available
for €3 plus a deposit of €150.
First 30 minutes free (bikeshare.
ie/cork).

Bus Hop-on, hop-off bus tours of
Cork city also offer day trips to
Jameson Distillery, Mizen Head
and the Ring of Kerry. Buses run
to most major towns in Cork
county. You usually have to go
back to Cork city to connect.

Car The absolute best way to
visit remote spots in West Cork,
which can be difficult to access on
public transport.

GABRIEL12/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

EATING & DRINKING

Breakfast Seek out Clonakilty black pudding with O’Flynn’s gourmet
sausages, washed down with a cup of Barry’s tea.
Cheese Smoked Gubbeen, Carrigaline soft cheeses, Toonsbridge
mozzarella.
Beer Forget about Guinness, in Cork a pint of ‘the black stuff’ is either
Beamish or Murphy’s.
Potato pie Wash down this local speciality from KC’s (p129) with
Tanora – a tangerine-flavoured ‘mineral’ (local slang for soda).

Must-try sandwich
O’Flynn’s ‘The Cork Boi’ (p144)

Best cheese selection
Mahon Point (p147)

CONNECT & FIND YOUR WAY

Wi-fi Available everywhere, with
free hotspots in libraries and
public parks. If you’re getting a
SIM card, Vodafone has the best
reception and has a store on Pat-
rick’s St in Cork city. Note there
are some reception black spots in
rural areas.

Navigation Google maps works
well and everywhere is signpost-
ed. Friendly locals will always give
directions.

SAVE YOUR MONEY

Look for Pre-Theatre or Early Bird
restaurant menus.
Tap water is potable and free.
Deli counters in shops like Centra
have reasonably priced food.

WHERE TO STAY

Cork, especially the city, is expensive, with hotel accommodation
averaging €120 a night. Hostels, B&Bs and Airbnbs are more affordable.
Options book up fast during high season, festivals and bank holidays.

Place

Pro/Con

Cork City

Transport hub; widest selection of accommoda-
tion, tour operators, nightlife and restaurants.

Ballincollig

Near the city, connected by 24-hour bus;
regional park with walking trails; historical
gunpowder mills.

Kinsale

Start of the Wild Atlantic Way; colourful,
historic town with great restaurants.

Clonakilty

Seaside town with beaches, friendly locals
and DeBarra’s for live music.

Skibbereen

Saturday market and historical, artistic vibes.
Close to attractions.

Bantry

Friday market and stunning bay location.
Explore Beara and Sheep’s Head Peninsulas
and Gougane Barra.

MONEY

Taxis FREE NOW, similar to Uber, offers discounted
rides (free-now.com/ie).
Leap Card A bus pass giving 30% discount on cash
fares. Works on Cork buses and in other cities. Visitor
cards available (leapcard.ie).

TOP: JOERG BEUGE/SHUTTERSTOCK ©
BOTTOM: ALEXANDROS MICHAILIDIS/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

15

The Culinary

CAPITAL

GASTRONOMY | MARKETS | DAY TRIPS

With the country’s longest coastline and fertile farmlands, Cork has long
been regarded as Ireland’s culinary capital. It’s home to a famous food market
and cookery school, and more than 75% of the country’s artisan producers are
based in West Cork. All of this combines to make Cork gloriously gastronomic,
packed with everything from casual cafes to fine-dining restaurants.

How to

Getting around Be sure
to book a table, particu-
larly for evening meals on
weekends, bank holidays
and during festivals, as
popular places can book
out fast.

Traditional delicacies
Buttered eggs, crubeens
(boiled, battered and

fried pig’s feet), drisheen
(a blood sausage similar
to black pudding) and
tripe (the lining of a
sheep or cow’s stomach).

Top tip For maximum
gluttonous comfort,
loose-fitting clothing is
advised.

JOHN ANGERSON/ALAMY STOCK PHOTO ©

EMFA1/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Cork’s Best Food Experiences

Ballymaloe House Pioneering farm-to-table, Irish country-
house cooking in the 1960s, generations of the Allen family
continue a tradition of excellence with their slow-food philoso-
phy. Opt to stay overnight or simply dine at Ballymaloe House.
Keen cooks can take a course in the award-winning cookery
school.

Skibbereen Farmers Market Every Saturday the historic
West Cork town of Skibbereen bustles with its vibrant and
colourful farmers market. The market attracts the area’s best
artisanal food and craft producers.

Secrets of seaweed For a unique sea vegetable experience,
forage for seaweed with Atlantic Sea Kayaking (atlanticsea
kayaking.com) in Skibbereen. On the ’Secrets of Seaweed’
tour, at low tide, your guide will teach you how to identify the
different types and how to pick them sustainably. You’ll also
learn about the culinary, cosmetic and medicinal uses of sea-
weed. Tip: try Carrageen Moss pudding in Cork. Can you guess
the secret ingredient?

Kinsale scene Kinsale has a long-standing reputation as Ire-
land’s gourmet town. With over 50 eateries, there’s something
for everyone. Fishy Fishy, Man Friday and The Bulman are
firm favourites, but Bastion is where you’ll find a Michelin Bib
Gourmand. For cheap eats, try Dino’s fresh fish and chips
with mushy peas. Head to Blacks of Kinsale and choose from
a unique range of craft beers and spirits to wash your meal
down.

Left The Bulman, Kinsale Far left top
Cooking at the Ballymaloe Cookery
School Far left bottom Carrageen
moss

Modern
Delicacies

Chipper Unique to Cork,
a local chip shop favourite
is the humble potato pie.
A ball of herby mashed
potato is battered and
deep-fried, with variations
including cheese and/or
onion. KC’s in Douglas (be
sure to try a filled pitta)
and Jackie Lennox’s on
Bandon Rd are among the
best chippers in the city. A
battle wages on between
locals over which is the
best.

Boutique Cork coffee
Cork coffee lovers sip on
Badger & Dodo coffee.
It’s served in city cafes;
there’s a flagship in Fer-
moy and two cafes in Cork
city, on Barrack St and
South Mall.

TYLER W. STIPP/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

16

The Wonderful

WILD WEST

OUTDOORS | ROAD TRIP | SCENERY

Remote, untouched and
inspiring, West Cork is an outdoor
lover’s dream. Visit picturesque
villages, see a 3000-year-old stone
circle and drive through dramatic
landscapes that will leave you in
awe, as you explore the jewel in
Cork’s crown.

Driving the Beara Peninsula

Many visitors to West Cork overlook the Beara
Peninsula in favour of the better-known Ring
of Kerry route. However, the Ring of Beara
scenic drive offers just as much as its neigh-
bour, if not more. It’s a chance to get off the
beaten track while navigating narrow boreens
(country lanes), giving way to livestock and
taking in some of the country’s most breath-
taking scenery, on the Beara Peninsula.

The isolated, unspoilt 128km headland
drive begins in the quaint seaside town of
Glengarriff. Head south to Adrigole, the
jumping-off point for the inland Healy Pass
drive, which ends at Lauragh Bridge in County
Kerry. Enjoy the inspiring vistas as you contin-
ue to Castletownbere, where you can explore
the ruins of Dunboy Castle nearby.

How to

Getting around Al-
though there are public
buses between towns,
driving is always the
best choice.

When to go Blue skies
and calm weather are
more likely from May to
September.

Scenic stops Keep
an eye out for lay-bys
where you can pull
over to get those wild
landscape shots.

Driving tips Drive
slowly as roads can be
narrow and watch out
for large farm vehicles
and sheep on the roads.

Taste of West Cork

Every September over 10
days, A Taste of West Cork
Food Festival celebrates the
culinary delights and home-
grown produce of the region.
With over 50 local towns
and villages and nine islands
represented, the festival is
the ultimate introduction
to local delicacies. It’s an
essential event for any foodie
(atasteofwestcork.com).

Left Inchydoney Beach (p132) Above left
Healy Pass Above right Eyeries (p132)

JEFF MAURITZEN/GETTY IMAGES ©

BOMSTOCK/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

WALTER BIBIKOW/GETTY IMAGES ©

At the peninsula’s end lies Dursey Island, a
detour accessible by cable car. On a clear day,
the stark Skellig Islands can often be seen,
and sometimes dolphins. Driving back up the
western side of the headland, stop for a swim
at Ballydonegan Beach before visiting three
picture-postcard Irish villages – Allihies, Eyeries
and Ardgroom – where many resident artists’
homes double as galleries. You can also tour
the Copper Mine Museum at Allihies, the most
westerly copper mine in Europe.

Further up the coast, you cross the border into
Kerry just after Cappacloghernane. The views
of Kenmare Bay on this stretch are magnif-
icent. Continue until you connect with the
N71. Hang a right and make your way back to
Glengarriff, crossing back into Cork via Turners
Rock Tunnel and the striking Caha Pass.

Best of the West

Beautifully untamed and unapologetically
gorgeous, Mizen Head marks the most

West Cork
Adventures

Night kayaking trips can be
arranged with Atlantic Sea
Kayaking (atlanticsea
kayaking.com) on Lough
Hyne, Ireland’s only salt-wa-
ter lake and the country’s
first Marine Nature Reserve.

Inchydoney Beach is
popular with surfers, offering
multiple peaks on either side
of the headland. Rentals are
available from Inchydoney
Surf School (inchydoney
surfschool.com).

Walk some of the
250km of trails on Sheep’s
Head, birdwatch along the
Seven Heads Walk in Court-
macsherry, or hike one of
six trails in Gougane Barra
Forest Park.

Kayak amid a 40-strong
colony of seals in the
calm, sheltered waters of
Adrigole harbour on a trip
with Wild Atlantic Wildlife
(wildatlanticwildlife.ie).

southwesterly point on the island of Ireland.
Crossing the bridge to the signal tower, keep an
eye out for seals in the gorge far below and look
for whales and dolphins swimming offshore.
There’s also a small visitor centre and cafe.

Hugging the rugged coastline for 70km, the
Sheep’s Head Peninsula drive is dramatic and
awe-inspiring. Completely untouched and unde-
veloped, this little remote corner of West Cork will
give you that off-the-beaten-track feeling you have
been searching for. Embrace the isolation and
enjoy the peace and quiet.

Located on the wild Beara Peninsula, the Healy
Pass takes you along winding, bending narrow
roads that snake through this mountainous land-
scape and over the Caha Mountains. Beginning at
Adrigole Bridge in Cork and ending 12km over the
road in Lauragh Bridge, County Kerry, the views
are quite simply spectacular.

A short drive from Glandore is Drombeg
Stone Circle, an archaeological treasure. This
3000-year-old site consists of 17 standing stones.
The stones form a distinct circle, measuring 9.3m
in diameter and orientated so the sun’s rays
illuminate the flat axial stone facing the entrance
on the Winter Solstice.

Left Gougane Barra Forest Park
Below Drombeg Stone Circle

LEFT: JEFF MAURITZEN/GETTY IMAGES ©
RIGHT: KLIK PHOTOGRAPHY/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

17

Castles & Stately

HOMES

CASTLES | HISTORY | GARDENS

Rural castles and coastal
homes with impeccably manicured
gardens speckle the rolling Cork
countryside. Cork Harbour, the
second-largest natural harbour in
the world, was frequently Ireland’s
first line of defence from invaders.
Impressive medieval strongholds
and fortifications stood the test of
time.

Marvellous Medieval Castles

Blackrock Castle A stone’s throw from Cork
city centre, this picture-perfect castle could
be straight out of a fairy tale. Restored as a
functional observatory, it has a popular cafe
on-site with expansive views across the Lee.
Guided tours are available along with plane-
tarium shows and interactive exhibits.

Blarney Castle Cork’s – maybe Ireland’s –
most famous castle is a must. Be sure to kiss
the Blarney Stone for the ‘gift of the gab’.
Acrophobics beware: to kiss the stone, first
you climb 127 steps to the castle top, you then
lay down, hold on to iron bars and lower your
head backwards from a ledge. An attendant
assists. Years ago, visitors were held by the
ankles and lowered head first. Queues can be
over an hour long in summer.

How to

Getting around While
Blackrock Castle is
easily accessible from
Cork city and Kinsale
is connected by bus,
car is the best way to
visit castles and stately
homes further afield.

When to go Although
the best weather is
June to August, the
gardens come to life
with colour in spring
and autumn.

Irish gifts Family-run
Blarney Woollen Mills
offers a huge selection
of Irish-made crafts,
products and souvenirs.

Cork’s 9/11
Memorial

Just outside Kinsale is the
Ringfinnan Garden of Re-
membrance, containing 343
trees – each one dedicated to
a firefighter, plus one for their
chaplain, who died on 11 Sep-
tember 2001. The garden was
established by local nurse
Kathleen Murphy, who lived
in New York for over 30 years
and is also memorialised in
the garden.

Left Blackrock Castle Above left Bantry
House & Garden (p137) Above right
Charles Fort (p136)

RICHARD SEMIK/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

MIKEMIKE10/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

BRADLEYHEBDON/GETTY IMAGES ©

Charles Fort Just outside Kinsale, Charles
Fort is a fantastically preserved star-shaped
fortress looming over the harbour. Dating
back to the 17th century, it features gun bas-
tions used to defend Ireland against Spanish
and French fleets and was still in military use
until 1922. There’s a visitor’s centre onsite
with guided tours available.

Dunlough Castle The crumbling ruins of
Dunlough Castle are on the Mizen Head
Peninsula, at a point named ‘Three Castle

Head’ because of the three towers that still
stand. One of the oldest Norman castles in
southern Ireland, it’s only accessible by foot
and is shrouded in legends and ghost stories.
There’s accommodation nearby (threecastle
head.ie).

Magnificent Houses,
Glorious Gardens

Fota Island Fota House and its magnificent
19th-century decor offer a unique insight into

Floating Garden

Hidden in the hills of Skib-
bereen’s Liss Ard Estate
is the Irish Sky Garden.
Designed by American
artist James Turrell, this
interactive art installation
takes inspiration from
Celtic, Egyptian and Mayan
archaeological concepts.
Visitors enter via a stone
archway, through a long
megalithic-like passage,
and up steps that lead
to a grass-lined crater. In
the centre is a large stone
slab where you lie back
and look up to experience
the sky framed by the rim
of the crater. Turrell says:
‘The most important thing
is that inside turns into
outside and the other way
around.’

the past. Art lovers take note, Fota House has one
of the finest collections of landscape painting
outside the National Gallery of Ireland. Fota Ar-
boretum & Gardens spans 27 acres and features
restored Victorian glasshouses. Child-friendly
activities make it a firm favourite with Cork fami-
lies. The house shares a car park (€3 all day) with
Fota Wildlife Park, so it’s convenient to visit both
on the same trip. Fota Island Resort offers luxury
accommodation and golf.

Bantry House & Garden The incredible location
of Bantry House right on Bantry Bay affords it
sweeping views of the water and Caha Mountains.
The garden features seven terraces, a fountain,
a large wisteria circle and 100 steps leading to a
woodland. The estate has rested with the same
family since the 1700s and contains original fur-
nishings and artefacts.

Doneraile Court Eighteenth-century Doneraile
Court is an outstanding example of Georgian
architecture, towering majestically over a
160-hectare landscaped parkland and wildlife
estate. Visitors can enjoy beautiful water features,
several pathways and graded walks. Keep your
eyes peeled: if you’re lucky you might spot some
of the various deer and Kerry cattle that call the
estate home.

Left Dunlough Castle
Below Blarney Castle (p135)

LEFT: STEFANO_VALERI/SHUTTERSTOCK ©, RIGHT: MIKROMAN6/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

18

Islands &

BEACHES

EXPLORATION | OUTDOORS |
WILD ATLANTIC WAY

West Cork is home to
some of the most spectacular
coastline in the country. Spend
time exploring the unique islands
scattered off the coast, go whale-
watching, or find your own slice
of paradise on one of the county’s
sensational beaches.

Island Life

Bere Island For windswept scenery, you
won’t get much better than Bere Island.
Visitors can expect sandy beaches, ring forts,
quiet coves and magnificent views of the
Slieve Miskish and Caha Mountains back on
the mainland. There is also an 1899 military
fortification to visit.

Cape Clear Precariously positioned on the
edge of the continental shelf, Cape Clear is
one of Europe’s premier whale- and dolphin-
watching locations. Venture out and explore
its natural beauty on foot, or seek out one of
the cosy pubs on the island and practice your
Irish language skills with the friendly locals,
who call their home Oileán Chléire.

How to

Getting around As
more rural parts of
West Cork can be quite
isolated, it’s wise to
top up your fuel when
you can.

When to go Check the
forecast before you
travel, as ferry and

cable car crossings
can be cancelled in bad
weather.

Camping Wild camping
is not technically legal
but it is tolerated in
places. Be respectful
and leave no trace.
There are also plenty of
campsites around the
county.

Coastal Craic

Whether you sip on a stout
with a view at O’Sullivan’s
in Crookhaven, step back in
time at Levi’s in Ballydehob
or Ma Murphy’s in Bantry,
or enjoy the music sessions
at De Barra’s in Clonakilty,
having the craic in one of
West Cork’s favourite seaside
watering holes is an absolute
necessity.

Left Cable car to Dursey Island Above
left Barleycove Beach (p141) Above right
Seals, Garnish Island (p140)

BRUNO_IL_SEGRETARIO/GETTY IMAGES ©

JOHANNES RIGG/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

PETER UNGER/GETTY IMAGES ©

Dursey Island Ireland’s only cable car
connects Dursey Island with the mainland.
Carrying a maximum of six people at a
time, the eight-minute trip transports you
250m above the ocean. The island itself is a
traffic-free offshore oasis with a raw, rugged
landscape.

Sherkin Island Known as the island of the
arts, Sherkin Island is home to a creative
community of artists, whose work is sold in
nearby Baltimore. Countless hidden coves

and beaches punctuate the coastline making
it the perfect location for any nature, wildlife
or outdoors enthusiast to explore.

Garnish Island Sheltered by Bantry Bay,
Garnish Island has an almost subtropical
climate and is home to a series of vibrant
gardens where tropical plants from all over
the world grow. Keep an eye out for seals
that are often found basking on the island’s
shores.

Beautiful
Baltimore

Baltimore is the
epicentre of West Cork’s
whale-watching scene.
Depending on the season,
you can see minke whales,
harbour porpoise, common
dolphins, humpback and fin
whales, basking sharks and
even the odd leatherback
turtle. A tour of this special
marine area makes for a
truly memorable experi-
ence; book with Baltimore
Sea Safari (baltimoresea
safari.ie) or Whale Watch
West Cork (whalewatch
westcork.com).

Standing 15.2m tall, the
cone-shaped Baltimore
Beacon is a signal tower
marking the headland at
the narrow strait between
Sherkin and the harbour.
It’s known locally as ‘Lot’s
Wife’, after a biblical figure
that solidified into a pillar
of salt. Visitors to this odd
structure are guaranteed
unbeatable coastal views.

Sun, Sea & Sand

Garrylucas Beach A short drive from Cork foodie
capital Kinsale, Garrylucas is a long inviting stretch
of sand with small dunes to the eastern end. Just
up the road is the famous Old Head Of Kinsale
headland, with tall cliffs harbouring native birds and
other wildlife, as well as a golf course, making this is
a popular beach with tourists and locals alike.

Inchydoney A popular surfing beach, Inchydoney
is an expansive Blue Flag strip that beckons
beach-goers. Explore the expansive dunes, ride
the waves or enjoy a picnic on the peaceful sands
of this Cork favourite.

The Warren Nestled away down a quiet road at
the mouth of Roscarberry River, The Warren is a
small, secluded beach that can attract big crowds
in the summer. It’s a beautiful location, listed as a
Natural Heritage Area.

Barleycove Beach Surrounded by an endless
sea of green fields on all sides, the white sands of
Barleycove Beach are instantly recognisable on
approach. This truly is one of the most breathtak-
ing beaches in the country.

Silver Strand To find your West Cork beach island
paradise, head for this stunning strand on Sherkin
Island. Away from the crowds, you can enjoy the
clear waters and sun-kissed sands of this beautiful
beach in peace and quiet.

Left Baltimore Beacon Below Sherkin
Island

LEFT: ALEX SEGRE/SHUTTERSTOCK ©, RIGHT: FLIPPYTH21/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

19

Stroll Through

CORK CITY

WALKING | HISTORY | CULTURE

Cork’s compact size makes it perfect for on-foot exploration. Learn about
the world’s largest butter market, explore University College Cork’s charming
campus and experience amazing views of the city from an old church tower with
this self-guided walking tour.

How to

Getting around The start of the walk, St Fin Barre’s Cathedral, is a 10-
minute walk from Cork city centre.

When to go Start the walk at 9.30am to catch the first cathedral tour and then
have the whole day to explore the route.

How long Set aside one to two hours for this walk (more if you want to linger
along the route); the total distance is around 5km.

Celebrate Play ‘Happy Birthday’ on the Shandon Bells if it’s your special day.

Picnic at
Fitzgerald’s Park

After University
College Cork, take
a break at every
Corkonian’s favourite
green space, Fitz-
gerald’s Park, with a
peaceful picnic along
the banks of the
Lee. Look for Daly’s
bridge (pictured
left), a pedestrian
suspension bridge at
the park’s northern
end, locally known as
’Shaky Bridge’. Walk
across and you’ll
soon see how it got
its nickname.

TRISH PUNCHKEYWORDS/GETTY IMAGES ©

01 Visit St Fin Barre’s
Cathedral and take a
look at some of the 1260
sculptures, the marble
mosaics from the Pyrenees,
spectacular stained-glass
windows and an impressive
24lb cannonball.

02 Stroll the University
College Cork (UCC) grounds,
which are immaculately
kept and house magnificent
buildings made of distinct
Cork limestone, renowned for
its light colour. The campus
dates back to 1849.

03 Ambling across
Mardyke Bridge, you are
treated to beautiful views
of the River Lee. The
peaceful tree-lined Banks
of the Lee Walkway route
follows the riverbank
taking you to North Mall.

04 Cork was once home to
the largest butter market in
the world, shipping from Cork
harbour to countries around
the globe. The Butter Muse-
um explores this important
trade.

05 St Anne’s Church is home
to the iconic Shandon Bells,
a symbol of Cork. Visitors can
enjoy 360-degree vistas from
a viewing balcony high up on
the 36.5m-tall bell tower.

DE KAM/SHUTTERSTOCK ©,
GENA_BY/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Charting
the
English
Market

FEEDING CORK FOR
OVER 200 YEARS

Trading in Cork’s city
centre since the 18th
century, the English
Market is so much
more than a place
of commerce. It has
endured famine,
fires, floods, wars,
multiple recessions
and two proposed
demolitions. The
market is a social hub
and a slice of, as the
locals say, ‘pure’ Cork.

Left Olive stand, English Market
Middle Stained-glass ceiling, English
Market Right Chocolate pralines

Development

The economic development of Cork in the 18th century
saw the reclamation of the marshes. The city’s Irish
language name, ‘Corcaigh’, meaning ‘marsh’, derives from
the fact that Cork’s main streets were once waterways
running between islands, which were reclaimed and built
over, creating the city’s present layout.

In the 1780s, inspired by the development of covered
markets in England, Cork’s corporation proposed deve-
loping a covered food market in the heart of this reclaimed
centre. Foundations were laid on Grand Parade in 1786
and the Grand Parade Meat Market opened the summer
construction was completed, in 1788.

Expansion

Taking shape gradually over the following years, fish, poul-
try and vegetable markets were soon added. But it wasn’t
until 19 December 1862 that Princes Street Market was
formalised with a roof. This was also when the ornamental
frontage, entrance and balcony area (doubling the number
of stalls) came in.

The Grand Parade entrance was officially opened on 14
July 1881. The clock came next, which still stands at the
centre of the facade, with the Cork coat of arms posi-
tioned above.

Setbacks

During the War of Independence, in 1920, British soldiers
looted and burned buildings in Cork. Fire spread from a
nearby store and the roof of the Princes Street Market was

D. RIBEIRO/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

extensively damaged. Miraculously, though, this was the only
scarring that the English Market suffered at the time.

Much greater damage was wrought in 1980, when a fire
caused by a gas explosion on 19 June ravaged the English
Market. Princes Street Market was destroyed, except for its
fountain, which escaped with minor damage. Luckily, Grand
Parade Market came through unscathed.

Modern Marketplace

Princes Street Market was
fully restored by October
1981, receiving a gold medal
from Europa Nostra in
1983 for its enhancement
of Europe’s architectural
heritage. The overall space
remains but features a
circular arrangement using
the refurbished fountain as

a focal point. The upstairs gallery includes a cafe area and new
trading space.

Alongside the usual offerings of fish, meat, fruit and veg,
foodies will delight in the array of exotic cheeses and olives,
cured meats, foreign cuisine specialists and imported herbs
and spices on offer at the deli counters in the centre of the
market. More adventurous appetites can sample traditional
Irish delicacies, such as old-school favourites of crubeens,
drisheen and tripe. The English Market is Ireland’s oldest cov-
ered market and even after more than 200 years of service, it
remains not just a gastronomic retail experience but also the
heartbeat of Cork’s city centre.

The English Market is
Ireland’s oldest covered
market and…the
heartbeat of Cork’s city
centre.

Why an
‘English’ Market?

The market was originally
established by Cork’s
Protestant corporation when
Ireland was under British rule.
In 1840, local governments
were reformed and a Catholic
majority took power in Cork.
They set up another covered
food market, St Peter’s, now
the Bodega Bar on Corn-
market Street. This became
known as the ‘Irish Market’
to differentiate it from its
older counterpart, the ‘English
Market’, which was associated
with its Protestant founders.
At the time, less well-off, work-
ing-class Corkonians shopped
in St Peter’s Market where
food prices were lower and
the English Market catered
to Cork’s wealthier, more
affluent residents.

D. RIBEIRO/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

LENA WURM/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Listings

BEST OF THE REST

Coffee Culture

Alchemy Coffee & Bookstore

Hidden away on Cork’s Barrack St, this rustic
cafe decorated with old and new books is the
perfect spot for a coffee break. There’s a choice
of brewing methods for filter-coffee lovers.

Filter Espresso & Brew Bar

On George’s Quay in the city centre, this
bright riverside coffee shop serves some of
the city’s best coffee. Choose from a variety of
brewing methods and blends while admiring
the posters and coffee gadgets.

Local Produce Champions

Paradiso €€€

On Lancaster Quay, this award-winning vege-
tarian restaurant is a Cork city institution. With
a focus on contemporary cuisine and locally
sourced, seasonal ingredients, it’s guaranteed
to satisfy even the hardiest carnivore.

Farmgate Café €€

Upstairs in the English Market, this cafe sourc-
es its ingredients directly from the vendors
below. Sample local delicacies, great coffee and
gluten-free treats while watching the hustle and
bustle. Check out ‘The Great Wall of Cork’ – a
unique collection of poems by Cork Irish and
international poets, framed and on display.

Quay Co-op €

Located on Sullivan’s Quay in the city centre,
this whole-food organic restaurant and deli
utilises local produce to create vegetarian
and vegan versions of local favourites. There’s
a great food store on-site for self-caterers,
with additional locations in Carrigaline and
Ballincollig.

Unique City Eats

Iyer’s €

For a taste of southern India in southern
Ireland, this teeny family-run vegetarian cafe
serves the best masala dosa this side of
Mysuru. Delicious desserts and coffee too.
Located on Pope’s Quay. Cash only.

Ichigo Ichie €€€

Cork’s only Michelin-star chef, Takasahi Miya-
zaki has combined Japanese technique and
Irish ingredients with mouth-watering results.
The Sheares St venue serves sushi and kaise-
ki ryori – a multi-course Japanese meal.

Miyazaki €€

For a more affordable taste of Japan, check
out chef Takasahi Miyazaki’s takeaway branch
on Evergreen St, featuring curries, noodles
and rice bowls.

Craft Beer & Spirits

Jameson Distillery Midleton

Head east to Midleton for a behind-the-
scenes glimpse at how ‘uisce beatha’, the
water of life, is made. Tour the distillery, taste
rare whiskey or immerse yourself in a full-day
whiskey academy experience.

Franciscan Well Bar & Brewery

The Fran has been brewing craft beers in
the walls of an old Franciscan monastery
in Cork since before it was trendy. Enjoy an
additive-free, vegan-friendly pint of locally
named brews like Blarney Blonde, Rebel Red
and Shandon Stout. Sip your pint in the beer
garden or enjoy a craft cocktail in the Monk
Bar, and snack on pizza.

Longueville House Distillery

Head north just outside Mallow to tour what
was Ireland’s first micro-distillery, established
in 1985 in a listed Georgian country house.
Afterwards, sample the award-winning apple
cider and apple brandy.

Kinsale Mead Company

Learn about mead, the world’s oldest alcohol-
ic drink made from honey, at this award-
winning family-run meadery. Founded in 2016,
it’s the first in Ireland in 200 years.

Day Trips

Gougane Barra

A lush forest park in Múscarí, the Cork Gael-
tacht area, spanning more than 339 acres
at the foot of the Sheehy Mountains. Within
it, there’s a lake with a tiny island housing a
picturesque church named after St Finbarr,
the patron saint of Cork.

Fun Festivals

Guinness Cork Jazz Festival

Get your dancing shoes on for this toe-tap-
ping Cork music festival. Held in venues
across the city every October bank holiday
weekend, it’s been attracting jazz fans and
musicians to the banks of the Lee since 1978.

Cork Midsummer Festival

This 16-day multidisciplinary festival held ev-
ery June features performers from all around
the world. Theatre, street performances,
dance, visual art installations and circus acts
combine to bring the city to life.

Kinsale Gourmet Festival

Foodies, prepare to feast. Running for more
than 45 years in Kinsale, this annual foodie
festival hosts Mad Hatter tea parties and
walking food tours every October.

Jameson Distillery, Midleton

Farmers Markets

Midleton Farmers Market

Established by local farmers and Darina
Allen of Ballymaloe cooking school, this lively
market is held every Saturday. It’s one of the
oldest and most varied markets in Ireland.
The Ballymaloe Cookery Stall is a favourite.

Mahon Point Farmers Market

Cork’s largest farmers market is hosted
by Mahon Point Shopping Centre every
Thursday morning, usually accompanied by
live music. Head to Gubbeen Smokehouse for
award-winning cheeses.

Bantry Farmers Market

From early morning to early afternoon every
Friday in Bantry’s Wolfe Tone Sq. As well as
food, there’s crafts here and an array of bric-
a-brac and antiques stalls. The first Friday of
every month is a traditional Fair Day.

Scan for things to see, do
and try in Cork

D. RIBEIRO/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

KERRY

HIKING | SCENIC | BEACHES

Experience
Kerry
online

Hiker, Slea Head

► Slea Head Drive
Scenery (p152)

► Walking the Camino
(p156)

► Beaches & Islands
(p158)

► Celebrations of Old
(p162)

► Dingle Views & Bar
Pews (p164)

► The Emerald Galaxy
(p168)

► Wildlife of Kerry (p170)

► The Dolphin that put
Dingle on the Map
(p172)

► Listings (p174)

DAVID MADISON/GETTY IMAGES ©

KERRY

Trip Builder

With pristine beaches, a rich history and exhilarating
driving routes, it’s no wonder Kerry is known as ‘The Kingdom’.
Discover what makes it so special and plan an unforgettable
trip including the vibrant Kerry Gaeltacht, one of Ireland’s
Irish-speaking strongholds.

Drive around gor-
geous Slea Head and
experience Gaeltacht
hospitality (p152)

1-2 days

Explore Valentia
Island and climb
Geokaun Mountain
for panoramic views
(p160)

1 day

Boat over to monastic
Skellig Michael for
Star Wars fandom
(p168)

1 day

Enjoy a refreshing
seaweed bath in
Ballybunion (p159)

½ day

Don hiking boots
and trek the
beautiful Kerry
Camino (p156)

2-3 days

Have a satisfying
pint (or two) in the
cosy pubs of Dingle
(p164)

½ day

Explore
bookable
experiences in
Kerry online

JOSE ANTONIO MACIEL/GETTY IMAGES ©,
P A THOMPSON/GETTY IMAGES ©,
STEFAN MISSING/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Practicalities

ARRIVING

Kerry Airport Car hire and taxis here. A
20-minute walk to Farranfore Station, for
trains to Tralee and Killarney.

Casement Train Station Tralee’s main
station. Bus Éireann on-site for rural
routes.

FIND YOUR WAY

Local tourist
offices in hubs
such as Killarney
and Tralee will
have guides, tips
and maps. Enquire
about other sea-
sonal offices.

MONEY

Cards are com-
monly accepted in
Kerry, but cash is
handy for parking
metres if you’re
stopping in towns.

WHERE TO STAY

Place

Pro/Con

Dingle

Popular hub in West
Kerry Gaeltacht; hiking,
beaches, rich heritage.
Tourist hotspot.

Killarney

Hotels and guesthouses
galore. Best for families
and nights out; expect
summer crowds.

Kenmare

Great base for foodies
and south Kerry explo-
ration. Public transport
access poor.

Port-
magee

Quiet seaside village with
access to famous islands.
Limited accommodation.

EATING & DRINKING

Dingle Gin ice cream Not to be missed at Murphy’s
ice-cream parlour (murphysicecream.ie).

Micilín Muc black pudding Award-winning producer
of traditional blood puddings. Found in shops across
Kerry.

Cromane mussels Super meaty shellfish from the
pure waters of Castlemaine Harbour.

Must-try tapas
Sol y Sombra (p174)

Best for whiskey & music
Dick Mack’s live music
nights (p167)

GETTING
AROUND

Car Driving is the
best way to reach
Kerry’s more
remote locations
and rural villages.

Train The main
towns of Kerry,
such as Killarney,
are connected
by rail.

Tour bus A pop-
ular option with
groups, particular-
ly around the Ring
of Kerry.

JAN - MAR

Brisk. Perfect for active days out
to warm up.

APR - JUN

Brighter, warmer days. Popular
touring season.

JUL - SEP

Warm to hot, with settled beach
weather.

OCT - DEC

Cold and often wet. Ideal for
retreats by the fire.

TOP: 4KCLIPS/SHUTTERSTOCK ©
BOTTOM: MISS PEARL/GETTY IMAGES ©

20

Slea Head Drive

SCENERY

TOURING | COASTLINE | DAY TRIP

Spend the day traversing
one of the most spectacular
driving routes in Ireland. This
circular tour takes you along
clifftop roads and through the
heart of the West Kerry Irish
speaking region, Corca Dhuibhne,
with the thundering Atlantic
Ocean by your side.

Incredible Views

Around the southern end of the drive is a
large white crucifix with some exceptional
views of the Atlantic. In summer this is one
of the most congested parts of the route; an
alternative lookout spot is Dunmore Head,
where a short hike offers views of the Blasket
Islands sitting proudly in the ocean.

Framed by cliffs, pause to admire the dra-
matic top-down view of the winding stone pier
at Dunquin before descending to catch the
ferry to Great Blasket Island. This picture-
perfect place has made many a postcard –
just don’t drive down to it or you may end up
stuck. While there is no car park, you can park
along the roadside and walk down the winding
routeway.

How to

Getting around The
best way to experience
this route is by car, but
people also hike and cy-
cle it. Rent from Dingle
Bikes (dinglebikes.com).

When to go Although
open year-round,
summer is best to enjoy
a splash in the sea.

Top tips Start in Dingle
and travel the Slea
Head Drive clockwise.
This is the recommend-
ed route as you will be
able to avoid meeting
larger tour buses
head-on.

The Gaeltacht
Experience

Corca Dhuibhne (Dingle
Peninsula) is West Kerry’s
Irish-speaking region and
locals will appreciate it if you
make an effort to understand
how the communities use the
language in their everyday
lives. Learn a few words or
phrases and consider taking
Dublin City University’s free
Irish courses online. See
futurelearn.com/partners/
dcu.

Left Dunquin Above left View between
Slea Head and Dunmore Head Above right
Great Blasket Island

MICHAEL THALER/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

NOEL O NEILL-LENS ALIVE/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

DAWID K PHOTOGRAPHY/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Clogher Beach has an even better view of the
impressive ’Sleeping Giant’, as Great Blasket
Island is colloquially known, laying at peace in
the ocean.

Historical Sites

West Kerry is steeped in history and there
are countless sites along the Slea Head
Drive. A good place to get an intimate look
at the history and culture of the Gaeltacht
is at Músaem Chorca Dhuibhne in Baile an

Fheirtéaraigh (Ballyferriter). Other places
of note are Cashel Murphy, an early Celtic
settlement overlooking Dingle Bay, and Eask
Tower, a striking solid stone building, which
was built in 1847 to guide the ships into the
harbour.

One of the most important historical sites
on this driving route is Cill Mhaoilcéadair
(Kilmalkeder), where a certain stillness lingers
over the grass-lined pebbles. This early Me-
dieval Christian site is just 8km from Dingle,

Baile na nGall’s
Best Experiences

An exhilarating dip At high
tide, jump off the second
slip into the pristine Atlantic
with Mt Brandon and
Cruach Mhárthainn as your
backdrop.

Unspoilt vistas Views
of the Three Sisters are
picture-perfect at dusk, as
the sun dips behind Binn
Dhiarmada.

Traditional racing The
Regatta usually takes place
on early June weekends.
Locals compete in a
traditional boat called a
naomhóg.

A creamy pint Relax at
Tigh Bheaglaoich. Enjoy
fresh fish and chips over-
looking Tráigh an Chléirigh.
The ocean spray will meet
your lips.

Recommended by Sláine
Ní Chathalláin, broadcaster
with RTÉ Raidió na Gaeltach-
ta @SlaineNi

yet rarely crowded. Estimated to have been built
in the 7th century, the existing remains are spread
over 10 acres. Highlights include a 1.2m-high Latin
alphabet stone and bullán stones (used to collect
water). A T-shaped cross – or tau – has been
described by the Office of Public Works (OPW) as
a sundial. However, some historians think it was
more likely a ’scratch dial’, used to indicate the
times of religious service.

At the back wall of the Romanesque church, vis-
itors can attempt to go through Cró na Snáthaide
(eye of the needle). If you can make it to the other
side, it’s said to be a sure sign that you will get into
heaven. From the graveyard, there are breathtak-
ing views of Smerwick Harbour and beyond.

Scenic Food Stops

The Stonehouse Café & Restaurant, just a
10-minute spin west from Ventry, is a favourite
for those on the Slea Head Drive and has outdoor
dining that looks across to Valentia Island on the
Iveragh Peninsula. The ocean views are comple-
mented by the restaurant’s speciality: seafood.

Further northwest, the popular Caifé na Trá
near Coumeenole beach also has outdoor space
and views of Great Blasket Island. Tuck into soup
and toasties – best enjoyed with freshly ground
coffee.

Left Baile na nGall pier Below
Stonehouse Café & Restaurant

LEFT: UNA MINH KAVANAGH/SHUTTERSTOCK ©, RIGHT: WOZZIE/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

21

Walking the

CAMINO

HISTORY | HIKING | BEACHES

Follow in the footsteps of St Brendan, traversing open mountainsides,
through woodland and over river crossings. Stacks of cut turf dot the landscape
along the path, which traces small roads and country trails from Tralee to Dingle.
All you need is three days.

How to

Getting around A day’s walk can take five to seven hours. Discuss bag
transfers and the return trip to Tralee with kerrycamino.com, or get the local
Bus Éireann back to Tralee from The Tracks in Dingle.

When to go Try autumn, or join the annual group walk on the May Bank Holiday
weekend.

Top tip Visit the serene Minard Castle (pictured above) in Kilmurray, on the
edge of the water with views of the Iveragh Peninsula.

Don’t Miss
Inch Strand

Detour onto the
beach. Walkers often
pass by here around
lunchtime on the
third day of their hike.
It’s an impressive
strand of windswept
sand dunes, with
Rossbeigh Beach,
the Iveragh Peninsula
and Slieve Mish
Mountains in the
background.

Recommended by
Ingrid Boyle and Mike
O’Donnell of the Kerry
Camino committee
@TheKerryCamino

NICK FOX/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

01 Detour at Blennerville
Windmill and take the
peaceful, grassy path to
Slí na n-Éan right by the
water’s edge. It has great
views of Tralee Bay at
sunset.

02 Visit the ruined famine
village of Killelton, overgrown
with shrubbery. Its inhabit-
ants were evicted and the
area abandoned in the 19th
century; today it’s a poignant
reminder of the past.

03 Go back in time with
historical memorabilia
at The Railway Tavern
(known locally as Mike
Nail’s) in Camp and learn
about Kerry’s railroads in
this cosy, quaint pub.

04 Named after the Irish
Antarctic explorer Tom
Crean, The South Pole
Inn in Annascaul has
treasured memories from
his adventures and serves
up great food and drink.

05 See the Lispole Viaduct
(built in the 1890s) and learn
about the importance and
history of the railway line in
Kerry through information
panels in this small Gaeltacht
village.

GABRIEL12/SHUTTERSTOCK ©,
ATTILA JANDI/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

22

Beaches &

ISLANDS

BEACHES | ISLANDS | RELAXATION

Often empty with rarely a
crowd in sight, one of the greatest
things about Kerry is its beaches
with crystal-clear waters and
islands swimming in historical
significance.

Peace & Quiet

Kerry beaches are far from crowded. Walk
along the sandy Baile an Sceilg beach with
Ballinskelligs Castle in the background, or
spend the day relaxing at the secluded Kells
Bay and harbour. Wine Strand is another
remote beach tucked away in the West Kerry
Gaeltacht, or head to glorious Béal Bán; its
soft white sand makes it a family favourite.
Parking is tight so get there early.

Surfers’ Paradise

Hit the waves at Ballybunion, ease the
muscles at Collin’s Seaweed Baths, then head
to The Maharees in Castlegregory to catch a
surf break. Banna Beach, 13km from Tralee,
is another local favourite for surfers and water
sports enthusiasts.

How to

Getting around Hire
a car or bike to get the
most out of the Irish
countryside. If you’ve
more time to spare,
consider hiking too.

When to go Summer
has the best weather,

but this is exactly when
tour buses are in Kerry.
Early summer (May) is
particularly lovely.

Top tips Avoid public
holidays. If planning
to visit the Skelligs,
it’s necessary to book
months in advance.

Famous Writers

Three Great Blasket Islanders
– Tomás Ó Criomhthain,
Muiris Ó Súilleabháin and
Peig Sayers – rose to fame
through their books, which
gave a true insight into island
life and the harsh realities
of living in such isolated
conditions. Visit the Blasket
Centre (blasket.ie) for more
information.

Left Wine Strand Above left Banna Beach
Above right Great Blasket Island (p160)

GABRIEL12/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

NOEL O NEILL - LENS ALIVE/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

COLM K/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Enchanting Islands

Take the ferry from Dunquin pier and spend
the day on Great Blasket Island. Go back in
time and see the islanders’ former homes and
relax on the beach. The local colony of seals
love sprawling on the sand.

While Skellig Michael (p168) gets more
favourable attention from tourists and movie
fans, Little Skellig is fascinating too. The
smaller of the famous pair, this island’s aston-
ishing bird haven is home to one of the largest

colonies of gannets in the world.

Away from the coast, take a boat trip to
Innisfallen Island in Lough Leane, starting
from Ross Castle in Killarney. Innisfallen is the
lake’s largest island and contains the remains
of an Augustinian priory as well as a small
Romanesque church.

Chilled Beach Vibes

Unwind and make a splash in the ocean at Der-
rynane Beach off the Ring of Kerry. This clean

Valentia Island’s
Top Experiences

Skellig views Climb Bray
Head and take the Loop
Walk accompanied by local
sheep. At the summit is a
historic Martello Tower.

Historical Knightstown
Famous for its King Scallop
Festival in the summer,
buildings here echo British
design.

Picturesque lighthouse
Picnic by the 17th-century
lighthouse at Cromwell
Point with the sound of
crashing waves.

Geokaun Mountain Take
the challenging climb to
Valentia’s highest point for
unbeatable views.

Gorgeous grotto Visit
the Virgin Mary and St
Bernadette statues in
the Valentia Slate Quarry,
complete with waterfall.

Recommended by Séaghan
Ó Súilleabháin, Kerryman
and TikToker at Kerry
Cowboy @Suilleabhanach

stretch of sand with rocky outcrops is much
loved by locals in Caherdaniel. Derrynane has
a natural harbour and is seldom busy. Walkers
and swimmers embrace these Atlantic shores
and families will love relaxing on the beach and
exploring the rock pools. Lifeguards are on duty
during the bathing season (June to August).

The inviting crystal-clear waters of Der-
rynane and fine soft sand are heavenly for
those looking for a chilled day out. Top it off
with pub grub and a fresh pint at Keating’s
Bar at the harbour. If you’re lucky enough to
time your visit with one of their evenings of
music and song, you’re in for a treat.

If the beach isn’t enough for you, pass
over a nearby sandy spit of land to reach
Abbey Island and visit the ruins of St Finian’s
8th-century abbey.

Just a short 10-minute stroll from the
beach is Derrynane House, the impressive
ancestral home of Daniel O’Connell. O’Con-
nell, a lawyer, politician and subsequent
statesman, is regarded as one of the greatest
figures in Irish history.

Left Valentia Island Lighthouse Right
Derrynane House

LEFT: MNSTUDIO/SHUTTERSTOCK ©, RIGHT: BILDAGENTUR ZOONAR GMBH/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

23

Celebrations

OF OLD

CULTURE | NATURAL BEAUTY | FESTIVALS

With Kerry’s deep Celtic roots, it’s little surprise many of the region’s
communities still celebrate the ancient Celtic festivals: Imbolc for spring,
Bealtaine for summer, Lughnasa in autumn for harvest, Samhain (Halloween)
and the solstices in-between. From mountain pilgrimages to nights of feasting
and music, these traditions are wonderful celebrations of life.

How to

Getting here/around
Killorglin is the largest
festival hub and it has
bus links with the nearby
major towns of Killarney
and Tralee, both accessi-
ble by rail and bus from
Dublin. Use Local Link
Kerry (locallink
kerry.ie) for smaller
village celebrations.

When to go The start of
spring and autumn were
vitally important events
in the pagan calendar so
it’s no surprise that the
best festivals are held at
these times.

Top tip Book accommo-
dation well in advance as
the towns quickly fill up
with festival-goers.

REUTERS/ALAMY STOCK PHOTO ©

YOUNGOGGO/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Biddy’s Day The start of spring, Imbolc, is known today as
St Brigid’s Day or Biddy’s Day. The townland of Kilgobnet
has kept the old traditions of Biddy’s Day (facebook.com/
biddysday) alive for hundreds of years. ‘Biddy Groups’ dressed
in white and handmade straw hats carry an effigy of Brigid (a
Brídeóg) to every home to protect the community from evil
spirits. It’s on the Saturday closest to 1 February.

In the nearby town of Killorglin it has been expanded into
a festival to include traditional music, dancing, storytelling
and straw hat and Brídeóg workshops. In the evening, join the
firelight procession through the town to see the crowning of
the King of the Biddies.

Harvest Festival The village of Cloghane hosts a fantas-
tic Féile Lughnasa (facebook.com/feilelughnasa) with a
weekend of great music, storytelling and a unique parade
where locals parody current events with satirical floats and
costumes. In nearby Brandon, the blessing of the boats takes
place by the pier. Join the ancient pilgrimage to Mt Brandon
with knowledgeable locals, a ritual that’s thousands of years
old. Lughnasa celebrations are held on the last Sunday of July
(the closest date to the traditional Celtic start of autumn).

The Goat King ‘Ireland’s oldest festival’, Puck Fair (puckfair.
ie), is the pride of Killorglin. While revellers feast, dance and sing
for three days every August, ‘King Puck’, a wild goat, is crowned
and placed on a pedestal. The festival’s roots are grounded in
Lughnasa (harvest festival), but its meaning is still debated. The
town is filled with food stalls, street acts, music sessions and
partying.

Left Puck Fair Far left top Biddy’s Day
parade, Killorglin Far left bottom King
Puck statue, Killorglin

Celtic
Connection

Significant days of the
year were supplanted
with Christian calendar
dates in an effort to gain a
foothold in the hearts and
minds of the pagan people
of Ireland. This resulted
in a blending of ancient
Celtic and early Christian
practices.

Lughnasa, the harvest
festival, marked the
coming of autumn with
bountiful feasts and
pilgrimages to the top
of sacred mountains.
These pilgrimages were
in honour of the ancient
pagan god Lugh, who is
said to have held a great
feast and athletics trials
(which included scaling a
mountain), after his moth-
er’s funeral. Pilgrimages
remain significant, albeit
Christianised, and today
they honour Irish saints
(pilgrimpath.ie).

OGNYAN YOSIFOV/ALAMY STOCK PHOTO ©

24

Dingle Views &

BAR PEWS

PANORAMIC VIEWS | PUB LIFE

Tipped as ‘the most
beautiful place on earth’ by
National Geographic, the Dingle
Peninsula has some of the most
breathtaking scenery in Ireland.
Even in the rain there’s beauty
around every corner and there’s a
pub to suit every mood.

Walking the wild side Sheltered between the
foot of Mt Brandon and the wide arc of Bran-
don Bay, the Cloghane and Brandon area is
Dingle Peninsula’s wilder side. It’s a walker’s
paradise and there are cosy pubs to rest feet,
sink a pint and tuck into a delicious meal.
Murphy’s Bar is right on the pier in Brandon,
perfect for an outdoor pint overlooking beau-
tiful Brandon Bay. In Cloghane, O’Connor’s
Bar is one of Ireland’s oldest pubs, offering a
warm welcome and pints by the fire.

Edge of the world The road ends at Brandon
Point, with only the wild Atlantic beyond and
dolphins in the waves below. Walk up to the
old WWII watchtower and stand in awe. On a
clear day you can see as far north as County
Clare. Mt Brandon is a popular mountain
climb, best attempted using Faha Car Park
as the starting point. With the right gear and

How to

Getting around The
nearest train stations
are at Tralee and
Killarney; direct buses
to Dingle take six hours
from Dublin. There is a
local bus service on the
peninsula (locallink
kerry.ie), but having a
car guarantees more
time and flexibility.

When to go Sunny
days are so random in
Ireland that you can be
lucky any time of year.
July and August brings
heavy traffic.

What to wear Pack
walking boots, rainwear
and warm layers as
some viewpoints can
get very windy and wet.

Local Tips

Secret Bay Park at Teer
Cross and walk for around
an hour (4km) along part of
the Dingle Way to stand high
above secluded Sás Creek.

Ancient Tomb The dramatic
valley of Loch a’Dúin contains
over 80 stone-age structures,
including a mini Newgrange – a
tomb illuminated by the setting
sun of the autumn equinox.

Recommended by Micheál
O’Dowd, owner of O’Connor’s Bar
& Guesthouse @micheal.odowd

Left O’Connor’s Bar Above left Brandon
Harbour Above right Mt Brandon

ANGUS MCCOMISKEY/ALAMY STOCK PHOTO ©

4H4 PHOTOGRAPHY/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

WOZZIE/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

weather the views are worth the sore limbs,
but it’s a strenuous trip and can be dangerous
in poor conditions – get local advice before
setting off. It’s approximately 11km out and
back with a gradient of over 900m, so allow
at least five hours in daylight to complete the
hike.

Ireland’s longest beach Pink-gold sand
stretches 14km from Fermoyle Beach out
to a sandy strip called the Maharees, a play-
ground of pristine Atlantic waves and rolling

dunes as far as the eye can see. At the end,
you’ll happily drown your salty lips with a cold
pint at Spillane’s Bar. At sunset, the view
back across the bay to Mount Brandon and
Brandon Point is a special experience.

Heady heights Sandwiched between the
mountainside and a sheer drop to the valley
below, Connor Pass is Ireland’s highest
mountain pass. Take the easy road (around
a 10-minute drive) from Dingle to the top for
jaw-dropping scenery to the north and south.

Hiking
Caherconree

Caherconree mountain
pass is the rougher, older
brother of Connor Pass –
and less of a show-off. This
scenic ‘road of the stones’
winds through the majestic
Slieve Mish Mountains
from Camp to just east of
Inch Beach. Stop at the
signpost for Caherconree
Promontory Fort, strap on
your boots and follow the
trail up to see the remains
of Ireland’s highest stone
fort (683m), home of the
fabled sorcerer and high
king of Munster, Cú Roí. It
can be a tricky ascent in
wet weather as the ground
can be too boggy to cross
but, when it’s clear, the
views of Dingle Bay and
the Iveragh Peninsula are
majestic.

If you do tackle the narrow road down, stop at the
small car park by a waterfall. It’s worth the rocky
scramble to Pedlar’s Lake above it for unparal-
leled views across the valley.

Settle your nerves In Dingle you are spoiled
for choice for pubs after a long day’s drive.
O’Sullivan’s Courthouse and Foxy John’s are
both excellent for creamy pints of the black stuff
and great local banter. For something stronger,
century-old Dick Mack’s has a wall of whiskies,
retaining its reputation as the best whiskey bar in
Ireland. The live traditional music scene in Dingle’s
pubs is hard to beat and easily found.

Land before time It feels like the glaciers have
just receded when you take in the scenery at
Glanteenassig Forest Park, where huge dark
corrie lakes are framed by steep rocky cliffs. There
are excellent walks of all grades and kids love the
fairy-tale boardwalk around Lough Caum. End the
day with a fireside pint at Ashes Pub in the village
of Camp.

Left Views from Caherconree Below
Dick Mack’s

LEFT:PAWEL KRAWIEC/SHUTTERSTOCK ©, RIGHT: D. RIBEIRO/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

The
Emerald
Galaxy

WHEN STAR WARS
CAME TO KERRY

Between 2014 and
2016, Hollywood
descended on the
isolated rock of
Skellig Michael
twice to transform
it into the first Jedi
temple. Visitors
have since flooded
the area in search of
Star Wars, and the
local community has
adapted to living with
its movie fame.

Left and right Skellig Michael
Middle The Moorings

Why Kerry?

As the sacred home of early Christian monks, there’s little
surprise that Star Wars location scouts were drawn in by
the mystical allure of Skellig Michael off Kerry’s remote At-
lantic coast. Seemingly impenetrable, moody and lashed by
the Atlantic, the skellig sits alone 12km offshore at Ireland’s
most southwesterly point. Occupied by monks until around
the 12th century, the former monastery and most of the
island was declared a Unesco World Heritage Site in 1996.

Because of the day-to-day difficulties of ferrying people
to and from the island (often in tempestuous conditions),
it was considered a brave decision from Lucasfilm to
commit to getting an entire film crew out there. The skellig
makes its on-screen debut in Star Wars: The Force Awak-
ens (Episode VII) as the first Jedi temple of Ach-To, where
Rey (played by Daisy Ridley) eventually tracks down Luke
Skywalker (played by Mark Hamill). It then appears again
in key scenes of Star Wars: The Last Jedi (Episode VIII).

Community Involvement

During filming, a 2-mile exclusion zone was set up around
the island, patrolled by a naval boat. But that didn’t mean
that locals of the Iveragh Peninsula, off which Skellig Michael
sits, were excluded from the action. The crew and cast
visited the local school and some were accommodated
and fed at the award-winning The Moorings in Portmagee.
Owners Gerard and Patricia Kennedy also hosted the movie
wrap party at the hotel that year, and still regale visitors with
the story of Mark Hamill learning to pour a pint of Guinness
in their Bridge Bar. Rather than being starstruck, Patricia
remembers one local ‘totally uninterested’, with his back to
the famous Jedi as if he was any other barman.

BRIAN KELLY/EYEEM/GETTY IMAGES ©

When the Star Wars crew returned in 2016 to film The Last
Jedi, they built a replica of the Skellig Michael monastic site to
get around the fact that shooting times were restricted by the
weather-dependent ferry crossings to the island. The replica
was on Ceann Sibéal headland near the village of Baile an
Fheirtéaraigh (Ballyferriter) and filming took place around a
farm run by the Devane family. Local Breege Granville remem-

bers how the rural setting
affected some of the film
workers from inner-city Dub-
lin, recalling encounters with
cows that made ‘the boys
take off running’.

The Lucasfilm Effect

According to the Kennedys,

the Star Wars connection has led to a massive boost in visitors
to the area. Their hotel now runs a popular Star Wars Package
(moorings.ie/star-wars-the-force-awakens), which includes a
tour around Skellig Michael (though not a landing) in season.

Pat Devane, owner of the farm used in filming in 2016, has
created a Sunset Site trail for people to visit the location
where Luke Skywalker fades into ‘the force’, not far from the
summit of Ceann Sibéal.

In 2018, local fans helped launch the May the 4th Festival,
which now runs annually in Ballyferriter, Portmagee, Ballins-
kelligs and Valentia Island. The festival coincides with Féile na
Bealtaine, the Celtic celebrations marking the start of sum-
mer. Local communities blend the two festivals with unique
cultural crossovers, such as the Kerry School of Music playing
the Star Wars scores and local Irish dancers performing in Star
Wars costumes.

The Star Wars
connection has led
to a massive boost in
visitors to the area.

Touring
Skellig Michael

It’s an unforgettable
experience landing on Skellig
Michael (possible mid-May
to September). There are
600 stone steps to climb,
hand-carved by monks in
the 6th century, to reach the
monastic site with its famous
beehive huts 150m above the
sea. As visitor numbers are
restricted, booking in advance
is absolutely essential. Note
that trips can be cancelled in
bad weather. It’s best to stay
the night before in or near
Portmagee as boats don’t
wait if you’re late. Skelligmi-
chael.com has a list of tour
operators and a comprehen-
sive guide to the Skelligs.
Eco tours around the islands
are a wonderful alternative if
landing isn’t possible.

MARCO BOTTIGELLI/GETTY IMAGES ©

MNSTUDIO/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

WILDLIFE

of Kerry

01 Red deers

Killarney National Park
is home to the last
surviving herd of indige-
nous red deer in Ireland
(herds in other counties
were reintroduced using
Scottish deer).

02 Peregrine
falcons

These raptors are the
world’s fastest flying
bird, with the potential
to reach speeds of up to
320km/h while diving
for prey.

03 Marsh
fritillaries

This beautifully
patterned butterfly can
be found in the Killarney
valley. Look out for them
in May and June.

04 Kingfishers

This distinctive bird
is found throughout

Ireland, and can be
spotted by the Deenagh,
Cloghereen and Gear-
hameen rivers in County
Kerry.

05 Puffins

Between April and
August, puffins breed in
colonies on the Skelligs
and Blasket Islands.

Once the puffling chicks
have fledged, the puffins
return to sea.

06 Gannets

Ireland’s largest colony
of nesting gannets is on
Little Skellig, where tens
of thousands of seabirds
gather during the sum-
mer breeding season.

07 Dolphins

The common dolphin is
frequently seen swim-
ming off the Kerry coast.
It’s also possible to spot
the acrobatic breaches
of bottlenose dolphins.

08 Minke whales

This species can be
recognised by the white

band that wraps around
each flipper. They are
most often seen be-
tween April and July.

09 Grey seals

Great Blasket Island is
home to Ireland’s larg-
est grey seal breeding
colony. In autumn furry
pups can be spotted.

10 Basking sharks

The waters around
the Kerry coast are
often visited by basking
sharks, who swim
around open-mouthed
catching plankton.

01 Eric Isselee/shutterstock ©, 02 Hal Beral/GETTY IMAGES ©, 03 Dave Collins / Alamy Stock Photo ©, 04 Butterfly Hunter/shutterstock ©,
05 FotoRequest/SHUTTERSTOCK ©, 06 Kevin Schafer/GETTY IMAGES ©, 07 Vincent Scherer/Alamy Stock Photo ©, 08 Anna L. e Marina Durante/
shutterstock ©, 09 David O’Brien/GETTY IMAGES ©, 10 Marko Steffensen/Alamy Stock Photo

The
Dolphin
that put
Dingle on
the Map

HOW FUNGIE’S FAME
CHANGED A TOWN

It’s rare for a dolphin
to stay solo for long
in one area. Yet, in
Dingle, Fungie found
his pod of two-legged
landlubbers, sea-
farers and swimmers
and never wanted
to leave. He made
it into the Guinness
Book of Records
for longest-living
solitary dolphin, but
disappeared in 2020.

Left Fungie Middle Dingle Harbour
Lighthouse Right Oceanworld
Aquarium

For local residents, Fungie has been synonymous with
Dingle for decades. Councillor Breandán Fitzgerald, who
is from Dingle and was 10 when Fungie arrived almost 40
years ago, says: ‘If anyone asked you where you’re from,
you’d say Dingle, then they’d smile and say “Fungie, the
Dingle Dolphin’”.

When Fungie showed up in 1983, it was a time of deep
recession and emigration in Ireland. Livelihoods in Dingle
centred on fishing and agriculture, both in decline at the
time. Breandán believes Fungie was fundamental to the
change of fortunes for the community. ‘It was retired
fishermen who were bringing people out...they were able
to make a living and their children were able to make a
living,’ he says.

Breandán saw, first-hand, the effect Fungie had on
people staying at his guesthouse. It became apparent
that anyone who encountered Fungie went home with a
memory of a lifetime, and spread the news about their
experience. ‘People would come down on holidays and
see the dolphin...they just wouldn’t be able to stop talking
about the trip,’ he recalls.

Fungie’s fame secured a future for generations of fam-
ilies. Thousands of people every year, over three decades,
visited the area to see him, creating an entire tourism
industry around the playful dolphin.

Jimmy Flannery established Dingle Dolphin Tours
(dingledolphin.com) in 1987 and says he believes ‘Fungie
did more for Dingle than any tourist board could have’.

DAWID K PHOTOGRAPHY/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Deep Connection

Fungie became part of the fabric of the community of Dingle
and the town didn’t just gain economically. To many, he became
a comforting presence in the harbour, even a lifelong friend.
Fishermen leaving the harbour, possibly facing a dangerous
journey at sea, were accompanied by Fungie on their way out
and welcomed back with excited jumps on their return.

One day, Fungie just
disappeared. Jimmy says
that although he always knew
someday Fungie would be
gone, the sense of loss he
feels is palpable. ‘It hits now
and again. I’ve been taking
people out for 33 years and
everywhere you look in the
house, there’s pictures of
Fungie, Fungie with my kids...

he’s everywhere. It’s really like losing a member of the family’.

Fungie’s disappearance has had an impact on the dolphin
boat tour operators, with half of them deciding to drop anchor,
but Jimmy has set up Dingle Sea Safaris to show visitors the
peninsula’s impressive abundance of marine life.

Marine biologist Kevin Flannery says marine life is actually
on the rise. ‘There’s a lot more. For the first time ever, the week
Fungie disappeared we had minke whales in the mouth of Dingle
Harbour,’ he says. Kevin was inspired by Fungie to open Dingle’s
Oceanworld Aquarium. Both he and Jimmy believe that the
popularity of eco trips and wildlife tours in Dingle, and all around
Ireland’s coast, wouldn’t have happened without Fungie.

Thousands of people
every year, over three
decades, visited the
area to see him.

Life after Fungie

Jimmy plans to organise
a mural of Fungie on the
gable of Dingle Harbour
Lighthouse and hopefully,
in the future, a sea wildlife
awareness weekend in Dingle,
dedicated to Fungie.

There’s still an exciting
amount of marine life to
encounter, and the boat
operators traversing the coast
and the Blasket Islands have
years of experience thanks to
Fungie’s presence.

On a Dingle Sea Safari
(dingleseasafari.com) there’s
a chance to regularly see
common dolphins, a huge seal
colony and puffins. Minke,
humpback and fin whales
show up seasonally and
sometimes even orca can be
found here. ‘That’s Fungie’s
legacy,’ says Jimmy.

POTSTOCK/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

KENNETH GINN/GETTY IMAGES ©

Listings

BEST OF THE REST

Parks & Family Attractions

Kells Bay Gardens

Perfect for young intrepid explorers. Enjoy
strolling through peaceful woodland and spot-
ting large carved dinosaurs, then stroll to the
secluded beach a 10-minute walk away.

Bonane Heritage Park

One of Kerry’s most significant archaeological
sites, where the Ring of Kerry and Ring of
Beara meet. There’s a spectacular summer
solstice alignment here in June.

Killarney National Park

Families can enjoy a horse-drawn tour by
jaunting car, roam the extensive grounds to
find wild deer and take a tour with Muckross
Traditional Farms to learn about 1930s and
1940s rural Ireland.

Glenbeigh Fairy Forest

Take a leisurely stroll through this forest
to discover around 50 fairy huts, 1km from
Glenbeigh Village. Entertaining for young ones
with imagination.

Gleninchaquin Park

Right on the Beara Peninsula, this family-run
park has a mix of easy sloping terrains,
cascading waterfalls, and serene woodland as
well as more challenging walking routes.

Kerry Dishes & Coffee

Jack’s Coastguard Restaurant €€

Perfect stop on the Ring of Kerry with pan-
oramic sea and mountain views, serving Irish
dishes such as seafood specialities and local
Kerry lamb. In a former station dating to 1866.

Parkgate Coffee

Popular takeaway coffee spot with queues out
the door. Grab your coffee and take a stroll to
nearby Tralee Town Park.

Sol y Sombra €€

Sip cocktails and indulge in tapas (pork belly,
scallops, tostadas) at this restaurant built into
the atmospheric renovated church in down-
town Killorglin. Live gigs throughout the year.

Bean in Dingle

Bright, smart coffee shop with hot brews and
sweet treats. Queues are worth the wait on
Green St.

The Smugglers Inn €€€

This Waterville restaurant is well known for
serving up top-class food presented with
style, overlooking the serene beach at Ballins-
kelligs. Garden for alfresco dining.

Beaufort Bar & Restaurant €€

This bar dates back to 1841 and serves up
local Irish food, including a delicious rack of
Kerry lamb.

Perfect Pubs, Pints & Tipples

Tigh TP

Sink a pint or two with beautiful views across
the water while sitting outside TP’s in Baile an
nGall (Ballydavid), followed by a walk on the
beach.

John B Keane’s Pub

Savour slow-poured pints and great conversa-
tion in this intimate establishment in Listowel,
run by the family of one of Ireland’s most
celebrated playwrights.

Tigh an tSaorsaigh

Many visitors love this great Irish pub in
Baile an Fheirtéaraigh (Ballyferriter). Right in
the West Kerry Gaeltacht, expect animated
discussions and tasty drinks.

Crowley’s Bar

Drinks are always flowing in Kenmare at this
lively establishment with traditional music
and song. A night out not to be missed.

PF McCarthy’s

A long-established, lively pub in Kenmare
with live music. Perfect for groups, dates, or a
solo night out.

Arts & Pottery

Cill Rialaig Arts Centre

Contemporary, creative space five minutes
from Ballinskellig beach, where artists from
across the world exhibit their work. On-site
cafe, shop and children’s workshops.

Louis Mulcahy Pottery

A delightful pottery shop with on-site cafe
near Ballyferrriter. Robust stoneware porce-
lain from dining sets to colourful urns. Ships
around the world.

Greenlane Gallery

Distinguished and distinctive artists display
their work here (paintings, sculptures, jewel-
lery), including world-renowned Liam O’Neill.
Right in the heart of Dingle.

Siamsa Tíre

The National Folk Theatre is in Tralee Town
Park. Expect everything from musicals to dra-
matic pieces, as well as an airy gallery space.

Kerry Culture & History

Gallarus Oratory

This much visited site is one of the best-pre-
served early Christian churches in Ireland,

John B Keane’s Pub

built between the 7th and 8th centuries. It’s
on the Slea Head Drive (p152).

Staigue Fort

West of Sneem, this impressive ancient mon-
ument has a commanding view of the bay. It’s
well maintained and has a circular rampart
surrounded by an external bank.

Skellig Experience

Exhibitions on the history of the monks on the
isolated island, wildlife and lighthouses. It’s on
Valentia Island; worth visiting if you can’t get
to Skellig Michael.

Crag Cave

This ancient cave system, thought to be over
a million years old, was once full of water and
houses beautiful stalagmites and stalactites.
Less than five minutes from Castleisland.

Kerry County Museum

An interpretative experience in Tralee, with
a focus on archaeology and exploration. Its
award-winning Tom Crean Exhibition tells the
story of the heroic Irish Antarctic explorer.

Scan for things to see, do
and try in Kerry

GABRIEL12/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

25

Meander the

SHANNON

WATERWAYS | SCENERY | HISTORY

Meandering through 11
counties on its 360km journey
to the sea, the majestic River
Shannon is Ireland’s longest.
Recently listed among the world’s
most scenic river journeys,
the ‘Wise River’ can be your
waymarker to discover Ireland’s
hidden heartlands.

Ancient Settlements to
Modern Communities

The mighty River Shannon was a vital water-
way and trading route for centuries. Nowa-
days the Shannon and its lakes are popular
for fishing, stunning scenery and a variety of
activities both on and off the water, including
kayaking, SUP, cycling and hiking. Blueways
ireland.org is a good trip-planning resource.

Lough Derg, the largest of the Shannon’s
three lakes, is home to some 376 islands,
the most notable being Inis Cealtra (Holy
Island). Lesser known than Clonmacnoise
further north on the banks of the Shannon, this
6th-century monastic settlement features four
high crosses, a holy well, the ruins of a round
tower and several small churches. Although
it’s now uninhabited, except by some intrepid

How to

Getting here/around
Carrick-on-Shannon
is Ireland’s cruising
capital and is linked by
direct train and bus ser-
vices from Dublin. Here
you can arrange river
cruises and excursions
(waterwaysireland.org).

When to go Summer
(June to August, peak
season and school
holidays) has the best
weather and longest
days. Prepare for all
weather conditions
whenever you visit and
pack insect repellent in
summer. Consider May
or September to avoid
crowds and midgies.

A Pint in Ireland’s
Oldest Pub

An evening in the pub
is a quintessential Irish
experience. Believed to be in
existence for over a thousand
years, Sean’s Bar in Athlone
holds the Guinness World
Record for oldest pub in Ire-
land, and possibly the world.
It doesn’t get more traditional
than that.

Left Athlone Above left River Shannon
Above right Sean’s Bar, Athlone

WALSHPHOTOS/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

JOHN AND PENNY/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

NICK SCOTT/ALAMY STOCK PHOTO ©

grazing cattle and sheep, funerals still take
place in the graveyard with mourners trans-
ported from the mainland on small boats. Boat
trips to the island leave from Mountshannon
Harbour.

Up until the 20th century, the ‘wise river’
operated as a transport channel, and today
numerous bustling harbour towns and quaint
villages still line its banks. Picturesque Killaloe
on the banks of Lough Derg was the birthplace
of Brian Ború, High King of Ireland (r 1002-14).

Brian lived and reigned from the village, briefly
making it Ireland’s capital. The 12th-century St
Flannan’s Cathedral, which houses a carved
Ogham Stone discovered in 1916 and dated to
1000 CE, will delight history buffs. Killaloe is
linked with neighbouring town Ballina by an
impressive 13-arch stone bridge, which also
links the counties of Clare and Tipperary. Join
locals jumping off the bridge to cool off on a
(rare) warm summer’s day.

Experience
Lough Ree

The other Nessie Lesser
known than its Scottish
counterpart, the Lough
Ree monster’s earliest
mention dates back to the
7th century. More recently
in 1960, three priests were
fishing and one spotted a
large black creature 6ft in
length swimming up the
lough. Head to Athlone to
spot Ireland’s answer to
Nessie.

Birdwatching Keen birders
will twitch at Lough Ree,
designated a Special
Protection Area for its
population of migratory
waterfowl. The migratory
season starts in March.

Family fun For a unique
family day out, check out
Baysports (baysports.ie)
on the lake – Ireland’s larg-
est inflatable water park.

Modern Marvels, Mother Nature

Nearing the Atlantic, seabirds and wildlife
populate the Shannon estuary’s mudflats and
manufactured marvels appear.

Harnessing H2O Regarded as a major
engineering feat of the 20th century, the
Ardnacrusha Power Station (esb.ie) was the
largest, most powerful hydroelectric power
plant in the world when completed in 1929.
Today, it’s still operational and visitors can
sign up for a tour.

Getting airborne The village of Foynes has
a unique claim to fame. The first commercial
passenger flight between New York and Europe
landed here in 1939 using the Shannon as a
watery runway. Foynes Flying Boat & Mari-
time Museum is one of a kind and houses the
world’s only full-size replica of a Boeing B314 –
a must for aviation enthusiasts. These trans-
atlantic seaplanes were the absolute height of
luxury in their day.

For a modern luxury experience, stay
in nearby Adare Manor, an architecturally
astounding 19th-century home, restored to
five-star hotel standards.

Wild Atlantic The Shannon culminates at
Loop Head (loophead.ie). The rugged coastal
beauty here is breathtaking and much lesser
known than the nearby Cliffs of Moher. Don’t
miss the Kilkee Cliffs and Bridges of Ross for
jaw-dropping views. Keep your eyes peeled for
dolphins.

If driving, save time and take the Shannon
Ferry between Tarbert and Killimer (shannon
ferries.com).

Left Lough Ree Right Ogham stone,
St Flannan’s Cathedral

LEFT: YACKERS1/SHUTTERSTOCK ©, RIGHT: CM DIXON/PRINT COLLECTOR/GETTY IMAGES ©

WEST OF
IRELAND

NATURE | CLIFFS | MUSIC

Connemara National Park

► Galways Pubs & Reels
(p186)

► Cruising the Cliffs
(p188)

► Walk the Rocky Burren
(p192)

► Wildlife of the Burren
(p194)

► Grace O’Malley: The
Pirate Queen (p196)

► Surf Sessions in Sligo
(p198)

► Listings (p200)

LOUIS-MICHEL DESERT/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

WEST OF
IRELAND

Trip Builder

The West of Ireland is full of adventure. Follow the trail
of a pirate queen in County Mayo, take to the waves for surf-
ing, or visit County Clare to cruise under giant sea cliffs and
admire wild flowers in the Burren’s limestone fissures.

Visit pirate queen Grace
O’Malley’s castle on Clare
Island (p196)

½ day

Learn how traditional
drums are made at a
bodhrán workshop in
Roundstone (p187)

½ day

Stop for a swim in
the clear waters of
Fanore Beach (p193)

½ day

Walk the Cliffs of Moher
and then cruise under
them (p188)

1 day

Watch big-wave surfers or try
freediving at Mullaghmore
(p198)

½ day

Spot seabirds and marine life
on a sea kayaking trip from
Rosses Point (p199)

½ day

Take a surfing lesson
in Strandhill and
then have a seaweed
bath (p198)

½ day

Hear traditional live
music sessions in
the pubs of Galway
(p186)

2 hr

Take up the challenge of
the 26km Black Head
Loop hike (p192)

1 day

Admire the wild flowers
while wandering in The
Burren (p192)

½ day

MARK_GUSEV/SHUTTERSTOCK ©,
TERRY HARRIS/ALAMY STOCK PHOTO ©,
HUGH BRYCE/500PX/GETTY IMAGES ©,
MIKROMAN6/GETTY IMAGES ©

Practicalities

ARRIVING

By air There are international airports at Shan-
non in County Clare and Knock in County Mayo.

By train Sligo, Westport, Galway and Limerick
are the main train stations.

By car The main motorways are the M4/M6
from Dublin to Galway, the M7 to Limerick and
the M18 linking Galway and Limerick.

HOW MUCH
FOR A

Half-dozen
oysters €13

Bowl of chowder
€8

Surfboard rental
€20

GETTING AROUND

Car The best option for sightsee-
ing and flexibility to stop at scenic
viewpoints.

Bus There are bus connections
between main towns. Check
buseireann.ie or private operators
for routes and timetables.

Bicycle A popular way to get
around, with several on- and off-
road signed routes to explore.

WHEN TO GO

JAN - MAR

The coldest months; evenings
noticeably brighter after March.

APR - JUN

Longer, warmer days towards
June, but risk of showers.

JUL - SEP

Warmest, with long summer
nights. Always expect rain.

OCT - DEC

Stronger wind and waves. Much
cooler, especially in December.

SHUTTERUPEIRE/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

EATING & DRINKING

Galway oysters The city is famed for oysters, with an annual festival
celebrating them every September.

Smoked fish Buy direct from smokehouses in the Burren and Conn-
emara, or from local delis.

Achill Island Sea Salt A natural product, harvested in small batches
from the Atlantic waters off Achill Island.

Calvey’s mountain lamb Sweetened by heather and salty air.

Must-try seafood chowder
Doolin (p202)

Best for honey
The Burren (p202)

WHERE TO STAY

Cities and towns can get busy around festival times and in July, August
and bank holidays, so book well in advance.

CONNECT & FIND YOUR WAY

Wi-fi Available at most accom-
modations, but unlikely to be high
speed. It can be difficult to pick
up a phone signal in very remote
areas, and 3G/4G coverage can be
patchy or non-existent in parts of
Connemara and the Burren.

Navigation If you are hiking or
exploring remote areas and using
your phone to navigate, have back-
up maps and communication.

Place

Pro/Con

Galway City

A good base for food and nightlife. Plenty of
accommodation options in the city, from hos-
tels to five-star hotels. Can get busy during
festivals and events.

Connemara

Good for rural stays. Look for quiet country
houses, glamping and B&Bs.

Westport Town

A lively spot; good base for exploring the
area, with plenty of accommodation, pub and
restaurant options.

Sligo

Good midrange choices in the town, or
around the county. Remote B&Bs, country
houses and quirky glampsites.

GREAT WESTERN
GREENWAY

This 44km off-road cycling trail
follows the route of the former
Westport–Achill Railway. Bike
rental is available in Westport
(greenway.ie).

MONEY

Credit and debit cards are widely accepted and you
will find ATMs in the main towns.

TOP: DIETMAR RAUSCHER/SHUTTERSTOCK ©
BOTTOM: RSOOLL/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

26

Galway Pubs

& REELS

MUSIC | CULTURE | NIGHTLIFE

Wandering around the pubs of Galway to hear traditional Irish music is
a fun experience, as there are live sessions of jigs and reels every night. Hearing
instruments like the fiddle (violin), accordion, bodhrán and banjo in full flow
will get your feet tapping – these are often accompanied by the tin whistle, flute
and uillean pipes (Irish bagpipes).

How to

Getting around Most live
music venues are in the
city centre, which is easy
to navigate on foot.

When to go Galway can
be busy in high season,
on bank holiday week-
ends and during festivals
and the Galway Races.

How much? Most live tra-
ditional music sessions
in pubs are free; the cost
of other music gigs varies
per venue.

LES GIBBON/ALAMY STOCK PHOTO ©

GERARD PLAUCHE/GETTY IMAGES ©

Far left top The Quays Far left
bottom Uillean pipes

‘Music is a big part of the culture of Galway. There’s a lot of
soul,’ says Galwayman Johnny ‘RingO’ McDonagh, a world-
famous bodhrán player who has toured the world with Dé
Danann and Riverdance. Here, he shares his favourite Galway
pubs.

Atmosphere One of Johnny’s favourites to play traditional
music in is Tig Chóilí (Mainguard St), which has two trad
sessions a day. ‘It has a great atmosphere. Lots of well-known
musicians join in,’ he says. ’Sometimes it gets so crowded
with musicians, there might be 10 musicians waiting to play.’
Johnny’s tip is to visit on a quiet day like a Monday.

Relaxing Sundays Try the The Crane Bar (Sea Rd), which
has sessions every night, an afternoon session at weekends
and a famous Sunday morning session. ‘It’s very welcoming
and homely, there’s a great vibe in the place on a Sunday
morning, it’s very relaxed,’ says Johnny.

Singing Popular with GAA sports fans and busy on weekends,
Taaffes Bar (Shop St) is recommended by Johnny for nightly
trad sessions and ballad bands. ‘You find a lot of different
types of musicians at the trad session,’ says Johnny.

History Don’t miss Tigh Neachtain (Cross St), which dates to
1894 and is at the heart of the Galway music scene, with many
famous musicians dropping in. Even older is The Quays (Quay
St), which dates back 400 years and has Irish and internation-
al bands playing every night of the week.

Beating
the Bodhrán

This traditional Irish
drum is beaten on one
side with a ‘tipper’. It is
made from goatskin that
is specially treated and
then stretched over a
wood frame. A good place
to learn about it is at the
Connemara workshop of
Ireland’s master bodhrán
maker, Malachy Kearns,
who has been crafting
instruments for more than
40 years. His bodhráns
have gone on to star in ev-
erything from Riverdance
to the movie Titanic. The
workshop in Roundstone,
County Galway (bodhran.
com), is open seven days
with a viewing area to
look at bodhrán making.
Book in advance for a talk
on bodhráns and their
history.

27

Cruising the

CLIFFS

WALKING | CLIFFS | NATURE

Experience the thrill of
walking along the Cliffs of Moher
– magnificent sea cliffs that
stretch for 8km along the County
Clare coast and plunge 214m into
the powerful Atlantic Ocean – or
soak up their mightiness from sea-
level on a cliff cruise.

How to

Getting around Start
the walk from the
Hag’s Head car park. To
return, there’s a shuttle
bus between Doolin,
the visitor centre and
Hag’s Head from June
to August.

When to go March to
October. As Ireland’s

most visited natural
attraction, it’s busy
at weekends and in
summer. Arrive early
morning or late after-
noon to avoid crowds.

Boat trips Leave from
Doolin; the walk here
from Hag’s Head is
around 14km.

Cliffs of Moher walk Start at Hag’s Head,
the most southerly point of the cliffs. It takes
around two hours to walk the 6km from here
to the main visitor centre. You’ll see Moher
Tower, the ruin of an old watchtower.

While you walk, you can admire the three
Aran Islands in Galway Bay and, on a clear
day, see right across Galway Bay to the Twelve
Pins and Maumturks mountain range in
Connemara National Park. To the south, you
might see as far as Loop Head and beyond to
County Kerry.

Wildlife The area is teeming with wildlife.
You’ll see and hear some of the thousands of
seabirds – ledges on the cliffs provide nesting
sites for more than 20 species, which are in
residence from around April to the beginning
of August. June or July are the best months to
see them and you will need binoculars.

Best Light
for Photography

If you’re photographing the
cliffs, afternoon or evening
is the best time, when they
are lit up by the evening sun.
Always take care, as cliff
edges can be unstable. ‘If
you’re taking photos of the
cliffs in the morning, you
need overcast weather, not
blue sky,’ says local walking
guide Cormac McGinley.

Left Boat trip to the Cliffs of Moher
Above left Cliffs of Moher Above right
O’Brien’s Tower (p190)

MIKROMAN6/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

YINGNA CAI/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

JOHANNES RIGG/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

‘There are three or four wild goats living on
the cliff face, keep an eye out for them,’ says
Cormac McGinley from Cormac’s Coast
(cormacscoast.com) walking tours. Wild
flowers, such as sea pink, birdsfoot trefoil, sea
campion and some orchids, also cling to the
cliffs.

Geology Local Liscannor stone has been
used for walls along the walk. ‘Keep an eye out
for trace fossils in the stone,’ says Cormac.
‘They are animal tracks – squiggly lines seen

in the cliffs – from animals that died 300
million years ago.’

The Cliffs of Moher Visitor Centre (cliff
sofmoher.ie) displays more information about
the geology of the cliffs. O’Brien’s Tower
nearby was built as a viewing tower in 1835,
with the best views from the top.

Cruise the Cliffs

Take a cruise along the Cliffs of Moher with
Doolin2Aran Ferries (doolin2aranferries.

Birds at the
Cliffs of Moher

Atlantic puffins winter at
sea and return to nest on
grassy cliff ledges. Most
visible in June and July.

Peregrine falcons are here
year-round. They can reach
speeds of up to 240km/h
– the fastest animal on the
planet.

Red-billed chough, also
known as the Celtic Crow,
is an endangered species
that can be found at the
cliffs year-round.

Guillemots live at sea
and only come to land to
nest, laying their eggs on
the cliffs. There are tens of
thousands of them, most
visible in May and June.

Recommended by marine
biologist Cormac McGinley
of Cormac’s Coast
@cormacscoast

com) or Doolin Ferry Co (doolinferry.com) to
get close to the massive rock faces and to re-
ally appreciate the height of these huge grey
rock walls from the sea. The boat trips start
and end in the village of Doolin and will take
you along the cliffs as far as Hag’s Head.

Stacks and arches Travelling by boat, you’ll
see how the power of the Atlantic waves has
created magnificent rock formations, like the
sea stack An Branán Mór and sea arches
such as the one under Moher Tower. Rocky
ledges provide shelter and nesting sites for up
to 30,000 breeding pairs of seabirds.

Cruises pass the highest point of the cliffs
at Knockardakin, near O’Brien’s Tower, which
rise 214m above sea level. Look out for sea
caves along the way, including the cave that
featured as the Horcrux cave in the film Harry
Potter and the Half-Blood Prince. Occasionally
seals, dolphins or basking sharks are spotted
from the cruises too.

Trips take around one hour. They are
seasonal from March to October and are
weather-dependant. Both ferries also run trips
from Doolin to the nearby Aran Islands.

Left Peregrine falcon Right An
Branán Mór

LEFT: MILLE19/GETTY IMAGES ©, RIGHT: GABRIELA INSURATELU/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

28

Walk the Rocky

BURREN

OUTDOORS | NATURE | DAY TRIP

Nothing will prepare you for the stark, grey limestone plateaus of the
Burren in County Clare, which translates from Irish as ‘rocky place’. Hike here to
experience the limestone pavements and delicate flora and fauna, while soaking
up coastal views.

How to

Getting around Start and finish the walk to Black Head at Fanore Beach car
park. Most of the walk is off-road and should take around one hour each way.

When to go Between spring and autumn; the best time to see the wild flowers
in bloom is around May.

Top tips Keep a look out for wild goats. Leave no trace of your visit and don’t
move any rocks or stones on the limestone pavement.

Hike the
Black Head Loop

This challenging
26km trail goes
around Black Head
and through the
Gleninagh Pass
and Feenagh Valley.
Terrain varies from
grassy tracks to
mountain paths and
can be rough and
overgrown in places.
Set aside six to eight
hours, take a trail
map and wear hiking
boots.

MNSTUDIO/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

01 Stroll the golden sands of
Fanore Beach, swim (or surf)
in the clear waters, explore
the sand dunes or look for
fossils in the limestone bed-
rock around the beach.

02 Look down into the grykes
(crevices) between the lime-
stone clints (slabs) to spot
rare wild flowers – orchids,
gentians, mountain avens and
bloody cranesbill – brought
by birds from Alpine, Arctic
and Mediterranean origins.

03 Explore the huge flat
layers of exposed limestone
pavement that reach right
down to the shore at Mur-
rooghtoohy, with erratics
(huge boulders) left behind by
the ice age.

04 Stop at the tip of
Black Head to soak up
the views of Black Head
Lighthouse and out over
Galway Bay to the three
Aran Islands.

05 Detour down a grassy
lane to Gleninagh Castle,
a tower house that dates
to the late 1500s and
overlooks a stony beach.
The holy well nearby is
said to cure eye ailments.

MARTINAM/GETTY IMAGES ©,
SCENICIRELAND.COM / CHRISTOPHER HILL PHOTOGRAPHIC/ALAMY STOCK PHOTO ©

WILDLIFE

of the Burren

01 Rare flowers

Spring and summer
are the best time to
see wild flowers like the
mountain aven, spring
gentian, Irish orchid
and bloody cranesbill
all in bloom.

02 Irish hares

The coat of the Irish
mountain hare is
reddish-brown in
summer. It’s larger than
a rabbit and can run up
to 60km/h.

03 Butterflies

There are around 30
species of butterfly
– look out for the brim-
stone, which is yellow,
or the pearl-bordered
fritillary, which is only
found here.

04 Red foxes

Red foxes live in dens
and are mostly noctur-
nal, but are sometimes
spotted during the day
here.

05 Feral goats

There’s a herd of feral
goats roaming these
hills. They’re identi-
fiable by their woolly
coats and large horns.

06 Bats

There are seven
different species of bat
in the Burren, including
the endangered lesser
horseshoe bat, and they
hibernate in the area’s
caves.

07 Birds

There are 100 species,
including visiting
peregrine falcons and
migrating whooper
swans. Listen out for
the call of the meadow
pipit, skylark and
cuckoo.

08 Pine martens

These elusive creatures
are tricky to spot as
they hunt at night.
They’re the same size
as a domestic cat, with
a bushy tail.

01 MARTIN FOWLER/SHUTTERSTOCK ©, 02 BEN WHITLEY/SHUTTERSTOCK ©, 03 SORU EPOTOK/SHUTTERSTOCK ©, 04 ERIC ISSELEE/SHUTTERSTOCK ©, 05 THE IRISH
IMAGE COLLECTION/DESIGN PICS/GETTY IMAGES ©, 06 AALTAIR/SHUTTERSTOCK ©, 07 ENDA FLYNN/ALAMY STOCK PHOTO ©, 08 AALTAIR/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Grace
O’Malley:
The Pirate
Queen

THE WOMAN WHO
RULED BY LAND AND
BY SEA

Grace O’Malley, also
known as Granuaile,
was a powerful
female leader who
commanded her
own army and fleet
of galleys. Follow
in her footsteps by
visiting her castles
around the County
Mayo coast, and hear
stories of how she
came to rule in the
16th century.

Left Clare Island Middle Wall
painting, Cistercian Abbey Right
Kildavnet Castle

Grace O’Malley, Ireland’s ‘pirate queen’, was born in 1530
into the seafaring Uí Mháille, (O’Malley), clan, who ruled
Clew Bay and the surrounding territory, including Clare
Island. For generations, they earned their wealth through
fishing and trading to Spain and Scotland as well as some
plundering and piracy on the side.

Well educated in her youth, Grace, who is also known
by the names Gráinne Ní Mháille or Granuaile, chose a
career in seafaring, then a bold and dangerous occupation
that was considered taboo for a woman. Her ability as an
intrepid seafarer and her success as a businesswoman
meant that her crew and army of 200 men acknowledged
her as their commander and remained loyal to her
throughout her long life. With her own ships and crews,
she traded and pirated successfully for over 50 years
along the coasts of Ireland and Scotland.

On land, Grace became involved in the politics of the pe-
riod, initially leading her army by land and sea in rebellion
against the English invasion of her territory. Later, she
used her political acumen to sail to London in 1593 and
negotiate directly with Queen Elizabeth I.

Grace married twice and when her second husband, the
powerful chieftain Richard-in-Iron Bourke, died in 1583,
Grace seized his Rockfleet castle on the north shore of
Clew Bay. From here she continued her seafaring activities
well into her old age, until her death in 1603. She is buried
in the abbey on Clare Island.

As Anne Chambers, author of Grace’s biography,
discovered in her search for the woman behind the legend,
‘Grace O’Malley challenged and triumphed over the
boundaries placed in her path, both by man and by nature,

TRAVELPIX LTD/GETTY IMAGES ©

to become the world’s first recorded feminist trailblazer.
Commanding by sea makes her unique among other female
leaders in history. Today, with focus on such issues as gender
equality and female empowerment, as well as ageism, this
makes her shine as an inspirational beacon to women
everywhere.’

In Grace’s Footsteps

You can follow in Granu-
aile’s footsteps on Clare
Island, where Granuaile’s
Castle, a 16th-century
tower house, overlooks the
harbour where Grace’s ships
once anchored. The nearby
Cistercian Abbey houses
medieval wall paintings, the
O’Malley coat of arms with
their motto ‘Terra Marique

Potens’ meaning powerful by land and sea, and the tomb said
to be Grace O’Malley’s final resting place.

On Achill Island, another 15th-century O’Malley tower house,
Kildavnet Castle, overlooks Achill Sound. Rockfleet Castle,
Grace O’Malley’s last known address, still stands in a quiet
inlet of Clew Bay. ‘The coastal area associated with Grace
O’Malley is undoubtedly one of the most beautiful in Ireland,’
says Anne. ‘With Clare Island guarding its entrance leading to
the historic port of Westport... it’s an appropriate setting for a
pirate queen.’

Find Out More

Grace O’Malley: The Biog-
raphy of Ireland’s Pirate
Queen 1530–1603 (1979)
Author Anne Chambers
(graceomalley.com) tells the
remarkable true story of this
extraordinary leader.

Granuaile Visitor Centre
In Louisburgh. A video and
exhibition about Grace’s life
and exploits, as well as about
Ireland of the 1500s, the
O’Malley Clan, Clew Bay and
the surrounding area.

Granuaile Loop Walk Take
this 6.7km trail around Achill
Island for amazing views of
Clew Bay and Achill Sound.
The trail starts and ends at
Pattens Bar and takes around
2½hours (achilltourism.com).

Westport House The ancestral
home of Grace O’Malley’s de-
scendants (westporthouse.ie).

With her own ships and
crews, she traded and
pirated successfully for
over 50 years along the
coasts of Ireland and
Scotland.

THE IRISH IMAGE COLLECTION/DESIGN PICS/GETTY IMAGES ©

DVLCOM/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

29

Surf Sessions

IN SLIGO

SURFING | ADVENTURE | WILD ATLANTIC WAY

Punctuating the Sligo coastline are countless beach breaks, headlands
and reefs that produce some of the best and most consistent surf in the country.
From riding the gentle beginner breaks at Enniscrone to watching the world’s
elite big-wave surfers getting towed into giant barrels at Mullaghmore, Sligo has
it all. Start planning your surfari with these epic Irish waves.

How to

When to go September
to May is the prime time
for waves in Ireland, when
the Atlantic swells are
most powerful, but you
can surf year-round.

What to wear You will
need at least 3mm of
neoprene in summer

and autumn, and 5mm
in winter and spring. A
hood, gloves and booties
are advised in the colder
months.

Rentals Wetsuits and
foam and hard boards
can be rented from 7th
Wave Surf School in
Enniscrone.

GARY MCCALL/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

MARK_GUSEV/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Far left top Surfer, Mullaghmore Head
Far left bottom Strandhill Beach

Find Your Perfect Spot

Beginner-friendly breaks Enniscrone and Strandhill are
excellent beaches for learners to hone their skills. There are
plenty of surf schools at each beach, offering lessons to get
you up and riding in the Sligo surf. Due to county regulations,
you cannot rent surfboards in Strandhill so if you don’t have
your own gear, you will need to enrol in a lesson.

Intermediate and advanced The faster waves at Easkey
combine barrelling sections with whackable walls that track
over the rocky reef. Easkey left, near the river mouth, works
best with a high incoming tide while Easkey right, just east of
the castle, is a reliable break that can produce picture-
perfect tubes in the right conditions. Streedagh Strand also
delivers consistent surf with both beach and reef breaks.
Northwest-facing Strandhill can hold swells of up to 4ft before
maxing out.

One to watch Mullaghmore Head is home to one of the
biggest, coldest and heaviest waves on the planet. Waves
standing more than 60ft tall are tackled by a handful of the
most elite big-wave surfers from Ireland and around the world.
Seeing these dedicated athletes brave these huge swells,
paddling and towing into gigantic walls of water, is a sight
to behold. The surf can be viewed safely from Mullaghmore
Head, but be careful as the weather can be wild.

Alternative Sligo
Water Adventures

Sea kayaking Get up
close and personal with
marine and birdlife and
witness jaw-dropping
scenery by sea kayak.
West Coast Kayaking has
everything you need to
get your paddle adventure
started. (westcoast
kayaking.ie)

Freediving In Mullagh-
more, Freedive Ireland is
the country’s first freed-
iving school. It provides
a range of courses, from
one-day experiences to
multiday training pro-
grams, so you can explore
the underwater world on a
single breath. (freedive
ireland.com)

Kitesurfing Rosses
Point is an untouched
stretch of beach, perfectly
positioned for kitesurfers
to enjoy Sligo’s prevailing
westerlies. You will need
your own equipment, as
rentals are not available
locally.

GARY MCCALL/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Listings

BEST OF THE REST

Nature Immersion

Wild Nephin Ballycroy National Park

Start at the visitor centre and then explore
more than 150 sq km of Atlantic bogland,
mountains and wilderness. Visit the park on a
clear night to experience Mayo Dark Sky Park.

Derrigimlagh Bog

Cycle or walk through this section of Galway
peat blanket bog, and see the site of the
world’s first transatlantic radio station and
where Alcock and Brown crash landed in 1919
after the first non-stop transatlantic flight.

Westport Cruises

Take a leisurely 1½-hour trip around the hund-
reds of tiny islands in Clew Bay, meet a local
colony of seals and see holy Croagh Patrick
mountain from the water.

Connemara National Park

There’s lots to see here in Galway’s national
park, with 2000 hectares of mountains, bog
and forest and plenty of rare plant species,
birds, rabbits and foxes. If you’re lucky, you
might even find some Connemara ponies.

Doolin Cave

Go underground and see some of the cave
formations beneath the Burren in County
Clare – including the Great Stalactite, which
hangs down 7.3m, making it Europe’s longest
free-hanging stalactite.

Killary Harbour

Take to the calm waters of Ireland’s longest
fjord in a kayak, or soak up the surrounds on
a leisurely 90-minute cruise of this 16km-
long waterway in County Mayo.

Hazelwood Forest

This gorgeous forest in Sligo is set on the
shores of Lough Gill with a lovely view of some
of the lake’s islands. It’s perfect for a peaceful
nature walk, with some sculpture along the
way.

Inishbofin Island

Take the 30-minute ferry out to the island
from Cleggan, 10km northwest of Clifden,
and rent a bike or walk the island for nature,
unspoilt beaches and the ruins of a castle, an
old chapel and a graveyard.

History & Tradition

National Museum of Ireland – Country Life

Wander the folklife collection at this Mayo
museum to get a picture of life in rural Ireland
in times gone by. You can also explore the
mansion house.

Connemara Heritage Centre

Just outside Clifden, this family-run farm and
heritage centre is a good spot to learn about
the history and traditions of Connemara, with
Connemara ponies, donkeys and chickens.

Moyne Friary

SHAWNWIL23/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Céide Fields

This fascinating heritage site in County Mayo
is a record of farming, with the evidence of
fields, dwelling areas and tombs dating back
6,000 years to the Stone Age.

The Burren Centre

Visit this centre in Kilfenora, County Clare,
for exhibitions and audiovisual recordings
to teach you about this unusual rocky land-
scape, plus a craft shop and tea room.

Connemara Wild Escapes

Step aboard a traditional Galway Hooker
sailing boat for a two- or three-hour trip along
the Connemara coast to learn all about the
maritime traditions of the area.

Killary Sheep Farm

See a demonstration of how the sheepdogs
are trained, watch a sheep-shearing demo,
see bog cutting in action or go on a country-
side walk around Leenane in County Mayo.

Beth Moran Handweaver

If you’re taken with the spinning or weaving
you see at this studio and shop on Clare Island,
you can come back for a weekend or week-
long course and learn the craft for yourself.

Moyne Friary

See the impressive ruins of a friary, with
well-preserved cloisters, a tower and a
church. It dates to 1455 and is one of the
largest Franciscan friaries in Ireland.

Adventure

Croagh Patrick

Climb this holy mountain in Mayo for the views
over Clew Bay and its islands from the summit
– the terrain is rocky, so bring good hiking
shoes and rent a hiking stick at the base.

Delphi Adventure Centre

There’s lots to do on both land and water
at this Connemara adventure centre, with

Croagh Patrick

kayaking, surfing, climbing and more, plus a
spa to unwind in afterwards and overnight
accommodation at Delphi Resort.

Northwest Adventure Tours

Go paddleboarding at dawn on Lough Gill, bik-
ing in the Sligo hills or on a forest night hike
with this adventure company – you can even
bike to a paddling session or a seaweed bath.

Great Western Greenway

Walk or cycle this off-road trail from Westport
to Achill Island, which runs 42km along an old
railway line. It’s divided into three stages, with
views of the mountains and sea.

Killary Adventure Company

Try a turf challenge obstacle course, gorge
walking or a sunset fishing trip – there’s even
a giant paddleboard to fit all the family in this
fun adventure centre just outside Leenane.

Island View Riding Stables

Go horse riding on a County Sligo beach or
even to a private island for a picnic – there are
rides and treks to suit all levels from beginner
to expert.

Pure Magic

Learn to kitesurf, surf or paddleboard on
Achill Island in Mayo and then stay overnight
at the lodge at the foot of Slievemore moun-
tain, overlooking Keel Lake.

MPETIPAS PHOTO/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Tour the Land

Scattery Island Tour

Take the short boat trip from Kilrush, County
Clare, to this uninhabited island for a walking
tour. You’ll learn about the island’s history
and then have some free time to explore and
enjoy a picnic.

Mungo Murphy’s Seaweed Co

Go on a coastal walk, a wild foraging session
and a tasting tour around Connemara to learn
about the landscape and its edible sea plants,
and to sample local seafood.

Lissadell House

Take a guided tour of this stately home in
Sligo, which was the childhood home of revo-
lutionary and politician Constance Markievicz
and her sister, suffragist Eva Gore-Booth.
Afterwards, stroll the lovely coastal gardens.

Lough Gill Brewery

Learn all about the history of brewing in
County Sligo and how the different flavours
of craft beer are brewed here – with a few
tasting samples along the way.

Electric Escapes

Take your pick of self-guided e-bike tours
around the County Mayo landscape and coast
– this company will provide you with every-
thing from maps and binoculars to picnics.

Flavours of the West

Galway Food Tours

Try everything from local oysters and beers
to local cheeses on this city walk with some
tasty stops. The company also runs whiskey
tours and cycling food tours.

Westport Food and Craft Market

This market sets up every Saturday (from
March) along the riverside on South Mall,
with local baking and organic vegetables,
plus handmade crafts.

Burren Honey

Gorgeous golden organic honey made from
the local wild flowers in the Burren region –
depending on the season, the honey can have
hints of everything from heather and clover to
dandelion and ivy.

Galway Bay Seafoods

Take a two-hour seafood cooking class in
Galway’s docks – choose from a seafood
chowder, lobster, salmon or shellfish work-
shop – and then tuck into your creations
afterwards.

Krēm Gelateria

Local flavours take on sweet form with this
homemade gelato using local milk and cream
– try the brown bread ice cream or Achill
Island Sea Salt caramel flavour. There’s coffee
and crepes, too.

Clifden Farmers Market

There’s everything from the landscape of
Connemara here: organic vegetables, herbs,
breads, pies and even some clothing. Every
Friday morning (June to September).

Aniar Galway

Treat yourself to a Michelin-star meal in
Galway using seasonal, wild and foraged food
from the local landscape and sea in the West
of Ireland. There’s also a cookery school here.

Fresh Galway oysters

MARIAKOVALEVA/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Hazel Mountain Chocolate

A boutique ‘bean to bar’ chocolate factory
in the Burren, which does everything on-site
from roasting the beans to ageing the choco-
late. Take a tour, then stock up in the shop.

Connemara Smokehouse

Visit this gorgeous smokehouse on a small
pier in Connemara and take a tour to find
out how they smoke their delicious salmon,
mackerel, tuna and more. You can even meet
the original kiln ‘Old Smoky’.

Tasty Tipples

Hargadon Bros

This gorgeous old pub in Sligo, a former spirit
merchant and grocer dating to 1868, is now
a gastropub with lots of wood, snugs and old
drawers behind the bar counter.

White Hag Brewery

Look out for this Sligo brewery’s local IPAs and
lagers in pubs and retail outlets. Its beers are
inspired by everything from the Atlantic to lo-
cal wild berries and sour beers are a speciality.

Micil Distillery

Take a tour and tasting here to find out all
about whiskey, poitín (an illicit Irish whiskey)
and gin. The family story goes back to 1848
and to an ancestor of the head distiller,
Pádraic Ó Griallais.

O’Loclainn’s Irish Whiskey Bar

Whiskey lovers will be spoilt for choice in
this tiny pub in Ballyvaughan, County Clare.
Visitors will find shelves full of whiskeys from
all over the world, including many old and rare
bottles, plus lots of atmosphere.

Matt Molloy’s

A lively bar in Westport town, owned by a
member of traditional Irish music band the
Chieftains. There are live music sessions every
night of the week – it gets busy, so arrive early.

Matt Molloy’s

Creative Crafts

Foxford Woollen Mills

Foxford in County Mayo is the place for
everything wool. Browse for soft lambswool
and cashmere throws, and cosy merino wool
scarves in a range of colours.

Spiddal Craft Village

Local artists and craft makers populate this
village just outside Galway. Take a stroll to find
glass, handmade baskets, ceramics, jewellery
and clothing with Irish-language expressions.

The Burren Perfumery

Lotions and potions of all types, all created
with florals from the local landscape. The
small batches of cosmetics and perfumes on
offer are made on-site.

Inis Meáin Knitting Co

The contemporary knitwear collections at this
studio on Inis Meáin island have been inspired
by the landscape, but also by the traditional
stitches and clothing styles of the islanders in
past times.

VINCENT MACNAMARA/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

30

Festival

FEVER

CULTURE | ENTERTAINMENT | ARTS

Culturally and artistically, Ireland has always over-achieved and this is
reflected in a huge range of festivals. And, as all locals will tell you, Paddys really
know how to party. Time your trip with one of the many festivals on offer and
you’re guaranteed a good time.

How to

When to go Most
festivals in Ireland
run between May and
September.

When to book Bigger
festivals (such as Electric
Picnic, Kilkenny Cat
Laughs) usually sell out

fast; tickets generally go
on sale the winter before.

Top tips For camping
festivals, plan to arrive
when the campsite opens
and avoid locations near
the bathrooms. Always
pack a raincoat as Irish
weather is notoriously
changeable.

DEBBIE HICKEY/GETTY IMAGES ©

LONNDUBH/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Electric Picnic Ireland’s largest arts and music festival is a
three-day camping affair, featuring international acts from
across the musical divides, local favourites, up-and-coming
acts, debate and discussion, cinema and tarot card readers.
You can even get married here.

Galway Races Horse racing is synonymous with Ireland and
the week-long Galway Races is Ireland’s longest racing festival.
Food, music and fashion all complement the racing to create
an electric atmosphere that draws people from all over the
world.

Kilkenny Cat Laughs One of Europe’s best-loved comedy
festivals. Running since 1995, it’s hosted by beautiful medieval
Kilenny and features international and domestic artists, from
Eddie Izzard to Tommy Tiernan.

Cork Jazz Festival One of Ireland’s flagship arts and cultural
events attracting global performers and visitors to more than
90 venues. Much like the musical form of jazz itself, the festival
remains fluid, fresh and contemporary.

Fleadh Cheoil na hÉireann The Festival of Music in Ireland is
a week-long street fest of traditional Irish music that has been
running for over 60 years. The host town changes each year;
attendees can wander the in-town locations and listen to the
world’s best traditional Irish musicians.

Open Ear Festival Presenting the best of Irish experimental
music, from avant-garde to electronica. Open Ear is held on
Sherkin Island, in Roaringwater Bay off the coast of Cork,
making it one of Ireland’s most picturesque festivals.

Far left top Electric Picnic Far left
bottom Fleadh Cheoil na hÉireann

Hedonism &
Literary Homage

Leading international
creatives descend on the
rural hinterland of the
Blackstairs Mountains
at the invite of Borris
Festival of Writing
& Ideas. It’s a literary
festival with camping,
a dozen food purveyors
and a wine sommelier in
a 1950s caravan, typically
held every June. Previous
speakers have included
Margaret Atwood, Martin
Amis, David Gilmour and
Cillian Murphy. As night
falls, however, things get a
little more hedonistic. As
co-founder Hugo Jellett
puts it: ‘A little bit of Ire-
land seeps into the bones
of the visitors and they
forget about everything
except right now.’

ULSTER

COASTAL | HISTORY | CULTURE

Experience
Ulster
online

Carrick-A-Rede rope bridge

► Belfast’s Painted Walls
(p210)

► Murals & Street Art
(p212)

► Titanic Belfast (p214)

► Fermanagh’s
Lakelands (p216)

► On Location (p220)

► Heaney’s Homeland
(p222)

► Hiking the Causeway
(p224)

► Daring Leaps and
Scrambles (p226)

► Wild & Wonderful
Donegal (p228)

► Donegal’s Favourite
Beaches (p232)

► Listings (p234)

S-F/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

ULSTER

Trip Builder

Ulster’s spectacular coastline calls out to be explored.
Inland, peaceful loughs offer further opportunities for water
sports and wildlife spotting. The province’s troubled history
is reflected in political murals, but a brighter future shines
through in its rich cultural life.

Explore bookable
experiences in
Ulster online

Leap into the sea on
a Causeway Coast
coasteering session
(p226)

½ day

Hike over hexagonal
rocks on the Cause-
way Coast (p224)

1-2 days

Explore the soaring
cliffs and pristine
beaches of Donegal
(p228)

2 days

Visit the places that
inspired Seamus Heaney’s
poetry, near Bellaghy
(p222)

1 day

Paddle out to Lough
Erne’s mysterious
monastic islands
(p216)

1-2 days

Discover painted
walls and links to
Titanic in Belfast
(p210)

1-2 days

JONATHAN ARBUTHNOT/SHUTTERSTOCK ©,
PAUL J MARTIN/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Practicalities

ARRIVING

Belfast International Airport Express
buses run to Europa Bus Centre (30 to 55
minutes).

George Best Belfast City Airport Buses
run to the city centre (15 minutes).

CONNECT

3G, 4G and 5G
mobile broadband
coverage is good
in towns and cit-
ies, but patchy in
remote rural areas.

MONEY

Northern Ireland
uses sterling. Card
payments are
widely accepted.
County Donegal, in
the Republic, uses
euros.

WHERE TO STAY

Place

Pro/Con

Belfast

Options at all price
points, excellent
transport links and
close to nightlife; can
be noisy.

Derry

Good for culture vul-
tures and convenient
for the Causeway
Coast.

Newcastle

Hikers’ hostels, scenic
campsites and B&Bs
close to the Mournes;
inconvenient for
exploring the north
and west.

GETTING
AROUND

Car The easiest
way to get around.
Roads are good
and traffic is rarely
a problem.

Bus Serve urban
areas and connect
the province’s
main towns, with
less frequent
services to most
rural villages.

Train Link some
towns to Belfast.

EATING & DRINKING

Ulster fry This greasy plate of sausages, bacon,
eggs, potato bread, soda bread and tomato is the
ultimate hangover cure.

St George’s Market This Belfast market sells locally
grown and artisan produce, including traditional
baked goods, fresh fish, and meats and cheeses from
nearby farms.

Must-try tipple

Boatyard double gin (p218)

Best fish and chips

Morton’s (p234)

JAN - MAR

Cool weather, some sunshine
and rain.

APR - JUN

Generally mild and occasionally
hot; head to the coast.

JUL - SEP

Lingering warmer weather;
don’t miss the autumn leaves.

OCT - DEC

Days are short and chilly; time to
get cosy.

TOP: JOERG BEUGE/SHUTTERSTOCK ©
BOTTOM: FRIEMANN/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

31

Belfast’s Painted

WALLS

MURALS | STREET ART | CULTURE

Belfast has a tradition of painting walls that stretches back over 100
years. Murals on the gable ends of terraced houses have been used as a form
of protest, to communicate messages – directed at the local community or
outsiders – and to mark out territory. Recently, a thriving street-art scene has
emerged that steers clear of sectarian imagery.

How to

Getting around From
Donegall Sq, the Glider G1
bus travels west up Divis
St and Falls Rd and east
up Albertbridge Rd to
Connswater.

Wet-weather option
Informative black taxi
tours of the West Belfast
murals can be booked at

the Visit Belfast office on
Donegall Sq N.

Guides Learn about the
street art on a guided
walking tour or check
out the map showing
street-art locations
(seedheadarts.com).

4H4 PHOTOGRAPHY/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

VANDERWOLF IMAGES/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Murals & Street Art

Republican murals West Belfast is the best place to see the
political murals the city is known for. Start with the interna-
tional themes of the Solidarity Wall on Divis St and head west
along Falls Rd towards Cultúrlann McAdam Ó Fiaich cafe and
cultural centre (culturlann.ie), passing various murals includ-
ing a tribute to hunger striker Bobby Sands.

Loyalist murals A Peace Line covered with murals and graffiti
separates the Catholic community of the Falls Rd and the
Protestant community of the Shankill; the gate on N Howard
St is open during the day. Head to Shankill Parade to see King
William III on his white horse and other Loyalist murals. The
area is best avoided at night.

Street art Over the past 10 years, buildings in the Cathedral
Quarter and the city centre have become a canvas for the
work of local and international street artists. Keep an eye out
for pieces as you walk around, and don’t miss Hill St. ‘Belfast
is fertile ground for street art,’ says Adam Turkington of arts
and events company Seedhead Arts. ‘Everybody in this city
viscerally understands the importance of writing on walls, so
when the street art movement starts and people see things on
walls that are not divisive or oppressive, they immediately un-
derstand how positive that is and they celebrate it. It’s about
beautifying the place.’

Far left top Cathedral Quarter tile
mural map Far left bottom Political
mural, Falls Rd

Belfast’s
Best Works

Cathedral Quarter Son
of Protagoras is incredible
and Dance by Candlelight,
the Duel of Belfast is the
most iconic piece in the
city. The annual street art
festival Hit the North is
held on the block around
Belfast’s best pub, the
Sunflower (sunflower
belfast.com).

The Entries A series of
murals inspired by the
history of the entries
(narrow alleyways) and
the anti-establishment
movements that bubbled
up there.

East Belfast Walk up
Newtownards Rd to CS
Lewis Sq to see a number
of pieces, including
Linenopolis and the works
at Vault Artists Studios (vaultartiststudios.com).

Recommended by Adam
Turkington, creative
producer from Belfast @
SeedheadArts

MURALS &

Street Art

01 Solidarity
Murals

Republican sympathy
with international causes
is frequently expressed
in murals, such as this
Solidarity POWs mural
by Danny Devenny and
Carlos Latuff.

02 Bobby Sands

Several murals in West
Belfast commemorate

the Hunger Strike of
1981. Among them is
this image of Bobby
Sands on Falls Rd.

03 Titanic, Ship of
Dreams

In the shadow of the
Harland and Wolff
shipyard cranes, this
mural on Newtownards
Rd recognises the
importance of the

shipbuilding industry in
East Belfast.

04 Dance by
Candlelight

Two men fight over
a dead animal as the
world collapses in Conor
Harrington’s Dance by
Candlelight, the Duel of
Belfast.

05 The Son of
Protagoras

Opposite Belfast’s St
Anne’s Cathedral is
MTO’s image of a boy
holding the dove of
peace that has been
killed by the twin arrows
of religion.

06 Linenopolis

On the Newtownards
Rd, Nomad Clan’s

piece shows a woman
surrounded by flax
flowers, a reference to
the linen industry.

07 Peace Mural

The 12 murals painted
by the Bogside Artists of
Derry between 1994 and
2006 are collectively
known as the People’s
Gallery.

08 Death of
Innocence

The Bogside Artists’
Derry portrait of Annette
McGavigan, who was
killed aged 14 in 1971,
represents all the
children killed during
the Troubles.

09 The Petrol
Bomber

Another People’s Gallery
mural in Derry depicts
a young boy holding a
petrol bomb during the
Battle of the Bogside
in 1969.

10 Bloody Sunday

Here the Bogside Artists
depict a group of men
carrying the body of
Jackie Duddy led by
local priest Father Daly,
in Derry.

01 KALEB KROETSCH/ALAMY STOCK PHOTO ©, 02 PAUL J MARTIN/SHUTTERSTOCK ©, 03 STEPHEN BARNES/TITANIC/ALAMY STOCK PHOTO ©, 04 PHOTOGRAPH
BY RYAN LONEY ©, 05 ISABEL ALBISTON ©, 06 ISABEL ALBISTON ©, 07 GERRY MCLAUGHLIN/ALAMY STOCK PHOTO ©, 08 DAVID COLLINS/ALAMY STOCK PHOTO ©,
09 BENSTEVENS/GETTY IMAGES ©, 10 OLIVIER WULLEN/ALAMY STOCK PHOTO ©

Titanic
Belfast

THE CITY THAT BUILT
THE INFAMOUS SHIP

Belfast’s Harland and
Wolff shipyard cranes
loom over the site
where RMS Titanic
was built. Workers
at the time were
proud of their part in
creating the world’s
most luxurious liner,
and poignantly
unaware of the
tragedy that would
unfold when the ship
set sail in April 1912.

The synopsis of what happened to the Titanic is well
known: a ship lauded as the world’s biggest and best set
off on its maiden voyage amid much fanfare. But on 14
April 1912, in the most notorious nautical disaster of all
time, the Titanic struck an iceberg in the North Atlantic
and sank in the early hours of the following day, resulting
in the deaths of some 1500 passengers and crew (the
exact figure is disputed). Official inquiries into the tragedy
on both sides of the Atlantic did little to dispel speculation
and debate about its causes. Public intrigue was com-
pounded by the glamour of the rich passengers on board
and the role of hubris in the ship’s fate.

But what of the city where the Titanic was built? In
the early 1900s transatlantic passenger liners vied for
custom from wealthy travellers and people emigrating. In
an attempt to outdo the competition, White Star chairman
Bruce Ismay commissioned three luxury liners – designed
for comfort rather than speed – to be constructed at
Belfast’s Harland and Wolff shipyard. In 1909 the keel for
the Titanic was laid alongside sister ship Olympic. At that
time Belfast was a shipbuilding powerhouse, and Harland
and Wolff employed around 14,000 people to work on the
liners.

Susie Millar’s great-grandfather, Tommy Millar, worked
in the Harland and Wolff engine room and later joined the
Titanic’s crew as a deck engineer. He didn’t survive the
voyage, leaving two young sons behind in Belfast. Their
story forms part of her Titanic-themed tours of the city
(titanictours-belfast.co.uk).

‘When I was growing up in Belfast, the Titanic wasn’t
much discussed,’ says Millar. ‘Talking about it was seen as

Left and middle Titanic Belfast
museum Right SS Nomadic

TAKASHI IMAGES/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

bad form or bad luck, even in my family where my father had
lost his grandfather. I knew the story because when I was eight
years old I was given a book to read which my grandfather had
written, about his father sailing away on Titanic, and what had
happened to him. I knew my great-grandfather’s name was on
the Titanic Memorial at City Hall but the anniversary wasn’t
commemorated here in Belfast.’

Regeneration

The turning point came in
the 1990s, when – partly
prompted by the 1997
release of James Cameron’s
movie – there was renewed
interest in the Titanic. ‘Peo-
ple were coming to Belfast
and trying to find where
the Titanic had been built
and there was nothing; they

were wandering across wastelands,’ says Millar. ‘As we came
out of the Troubles and were moving towards the centenary of
Titanic in 2012, there was a realisation that we needed to have
some kind of interpretation here of the back story of the ship.’

Since 2009, the former shipyards have been transformed
into the Titanic Quarter as part of a multimillion-pound regen-
eration project. At its centre is the multimedia museum Titanic
Belfast, which opened in 2012.

‘I love standing on the slipway and imagining the Titanic
leaving with just a few people on board,’ says Millar. ‘There’s so
much connected to Titanic in Belfast that’s authentic.’

‘Talking about it was
seen as bad form
or bad luck, even in
my family where my
father had lost his
grandfather.’

Best Titanic Sights

Titanic Belfast The
multisensory, multimedia
extravaganza at the heart
of Belfast’s Titanic Quarter
(titanicbelfast.com).

SS Nomadic The White
Star steamship that ferried
passengers to Titanic from
Cherbourg Harbour (nomad
icbelfast.com).

Slipways Behind the gleam-
ing edifice of Titanic Belfast
are the slipways where Titanic
and Olympic were built.

Harland and Wolff
Drawing Offices The
designs for Titanic were drawn
up in these offices, now part of
Titanic Hotel (titanichotel
belfast.com).

Titanic’s Dock and Pump-
House Titanic was fitted out
in the vast Thompson Graving
Dock (titanicsdock.com).

Titanic Memorial Monument
and Garden In the grounds of
Belfast City Hall.

ATTILA JANDI/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

RAFAEL.FELIPE/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

32

Fermanagh’s

LAKELANDS

ISLANDS | WATER SPORTS | WILDLIFE

Once home to monasteries
that were leading centres of
learning and innovation, the
islands of Lough Erne are now
occupied mostly by birds and
livestock. The spiritual legacy and
enduring mystery of the islands
hangs like mist over the water.

How to

Getting here Express
buses connect
Enniskillen with Belfast
(130km) and Dublin
(180km), but local bus
services around Lough
Erne are limited.

Boat trips Ferries
to Devenish Island
depart from Trory
jetty; the White Island
ferry leaves from Castle

Archdale marina (castle
archdaleboathire.
com). Erne Water Taxi
(ernewatertaxi.com)
provides transport any-
where on the lough. In
Enniskillen, Erne Tours
(ernetours.com) offers
trips to Devenish Island
and Erne Boat Hire
(erneboathireltd.com)
has self-drive rentals.

Exploring Lough Erne

Unique landscape Upper and Lower Lough
Erne – two freshwater lakes linked by a
river – comprise a mesmerising landscape
of snaking waterways and hidden bays. The
lough is dotted with 154 islands, or drumlins:
little hills formed during the last glacial period,
that are best viewed from the water. As little as
100 years ago these drumlins were home to
a community of some 500 islanders; now all
but two of the islands are uninhabited. ‘When
you’re sitting in the middle of the lake, you can
hear nothing but the sound of birds and water
lapping against the side of the boat,’ says
Barry Flanagan, a local water taxi tour operator.

On the water Options for water sports
abound, from stand-up paddleboarding, ca-
noeing and kayaking to self-drive motorboats
and hydrobikes. Equipment hire is available at

Wildlife Watch

The woodlands, meadows
and parkland of Crom
(nationaltrust.org.uk/crom),
on the shores of Upper Lough
Erne, are home to red squir-
rels, otters, pine martens and
rare species of butterfly. The
Lower Lough is an important
area for curlews, lapwings,
snipe and breeding sandwich
terns. Look out for kingfish-
ers, too.

Left Common curlew Above left Lough
Erne islands Above right Monastery ruins,
Devenish Island (p218)

MEDIAPRODUCTION/GETTY IMAGES ©

SCENICIRELAND.COM/CHRISTOPHER HILL

PHOTOGRAPHIC/ALAMY STOCK PHOTO ©

YEVHEN NOSULKO/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

the Enniskillen Blueway Water Activity Zone,
Castle Archdale marina and Share Discovery
Village. ‘You can easily canoe from Enniskillen
to Devenish Island, which is a lovely half-day
paddle, with the option of going with a guide,’
says Flanagan. ‘Upper Lough Erne is another
fantastic place to go canoeing and kayaking.
It’s quite sheltered because the islands are all
quite close together. You can go from Share
Discovery Village all the way down to Crom.’

Island temple Flanagan also recommends
the Hare Krishna temple (krishnaisland.org)
on the island of Inish Rath. A ferry service
operates on Sundays, when the temple is
open to visitors.

Holy Islands

Monastery On Devenish Island, the remains
of a 6th-century Augustinian monastery, a
near-perfect 12th-century round tower and
a 15th-century high cross are the legacy of

Local Tips

Favourite trail The trail
through Ballintempo Forest
to Aghanaglack Neolithic
tomb; it’s part of the
Marble Arch Caves Global
Geopark. Hiring an e-bike
from Corralea Activity
Centre (corralea.com)
helps with the hills.

Escape the crowds Lough
MacNean is completely
untouched. Head out in a
boat and you’ll likely have
the lake to yourself.

Local produce Fermanagh
Black Bacon (blackbacon.
com) – the pigs are reared
on Inishcorkish Island –
plus sourdough bread from
Joe the Baker (joethebaker.
com), and Boatyard gin
(boatyarddistillery.com) –
its distillery tours get rave
reviews.

Recommended by Barry
Flanagan, owner of Erne
Water Taxi in Enniskillen
@ErneWaterTaxi

a once thriving monastic site where up to 1000
monks lived and worked. ‘The buildings that
remain help tell the story of what the monks’ lives
would have been like, the power they wielded and
their importance in terms of the history of Ireland,’
Flanagan explains. ‘The place has remained un-
changed for hundreds of years, and you really get
a sense of its spiritualness. Walk through the gate
behind the church; from the hilltop there is a great
view of the whole island, down to the lake.’

Mysterious figures Within the ruins of a
12th-century church on White Island sit eight
extraordinary stone figures, thought to date from
the 9th century. Their age and interpretation is
the subject of much debate. ‘Little is known about
their history, but the stones speak for themselves,’
says Flanagan. On Boa Island (accessible by
road) two intriguing stone figures sit in spooky
Caldragh Graveyard. The larger is thought to
date from the early Christian period and could
represent the war goddess Badhbh from Irish
mythology.

Left Lough MacNean Below Caldragh
Graveyard, Boa Island

LEFT: GEORGE MUNDAY/ALAMY STOCK PHOTO ©, RIGHT: SHAWNWIL23/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

On
Location

THE LASTING LEGACY
OF GAME OF THRONES

If Ulster’s rolling
hills, damp forests
and craggy coastline
look familiar it
may be because
you’ve seen them
on screen. Much
of the blockbuster
series Game of
Thrones was filmed
in Northern Ireland,
with locals appearing
as battle scene extras
alongside Jon Snow.

Andrew McClay, a guide for Game of Thrones Tours in Bel-
fast (gameofthronestours.com), has loved the George RR
Martin books since he was 13, and appeared as an extra
on Game of Thrones. ‘I started growing a beard, and made
myself look like I belonged in the show,’ he recalls.

‘My favourite episode to film was Battle of the Bastards,
in Season 6. We had a training week and nobody knew
what was happening, we were just being trained with
swords, shields, bows and arrows. At the end of the week
we found out it was Stark vs Bolton, and we had to line up
to find out which we were. I thought, what am I going to do
if they make me a Bolton? I can’t put on that uniform,’ says
McClay, laughing, ‘But I was house of Stark.’

He also worked in the costume department. ‘They
loved having me there because I knew every piece of
armour in the show, and what belonged to who. So when
I wasn’t an extra I would be in scrubbing helmets. If I
wasn’t killing I was cleaning,’ he says. One of McClay’s
filming areas was Magheramorne Quarry on the Antrim
coast. ‘We did a lot of battle stuff there, including filming
for 55 nights for the Long Night in Season 8,’ he says.
Temperatures got as low as -12°C.

Now McClay uses his experiences on the show to
inform his tours. ‘When I was on set I would ask questions
to people in production about how they did everything and
what special techniques they used – the use of light to
mimic the moon coming down into the cave and stuff like
that.’ Torn up paper was used as snow. ‘The snow would
be everywhere. They would turn on massive fans and then
blow the snow so it exploded into a blizzard and we ran
through it.’

Left Dark Hedges Middle Ballintoy
Harbour Right Inch Abbey

MAX SHEN/GETTY IMAGES ©

The Thrones’ Legacy

The filming of Game of Thrones is estimated to have brought
£251 million to the local economy, and in 2019 the tourist
board suggested that as many as 350,000 visitors per year
had come to Northern Ireland just to visit filming locations
used in the series.

Northern Ireland’s film and TV industry also received a huge
boost from Game of Thrones – the knowledge and experi-

ence gained from working
on such a grand-scale
production has prepared
the local industry to host
future blockbusters. Titanic
Studios was recently used
for the 2021 filming of Dun-
geons & Dragons, with Chris
Pine, Regé-Jean Page and
Hugh Grant, and a number
of TV series have been
filmed in Belfast, including

the BBC series Line of Duty, which wrapped in 2020.

The success of Game of Thrones has helped rebrand North-
ern Ireland, show off its cinematic beauty and introduce it to
a wider public. The area’s popularity with Thrones fans looks
likely to continue, with Linen Mill Studios (linenmillstudios.
com) near Banbridge set to become a Game of Thrones studio
tour.

The filming of Game of
Thrones is estimated
to have brought £251
million to the local
economy

Best Game of
Thrones Locations

Castle Ward The estate was
used as Winterfell in Season 1.

Tollymore Forest Park The
direwolf cubs are found here.

Inch Abbey Robb Stark’s
camp in Season 1.

Cushendun Caves Where
Melisandre gives birth to a
shadow creature.

Ballintoy Harbour Lordsport
on the Iron Island of Pyke,
where Theon and Yara Greyjoy
are reunited.

Larrybane Quarry Renly
Baratheon’s camp in
Stormlands.

Dark Hedges These entwined
beech trees are instantly
recognisable as King’s Rd.

Binevenagh The plateau
was a filming location for
the Dothraki grasslands in
Season 5.

BALLYGALLY VIEW IMAGES/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

THE ESCAPE OF MALEE/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

33

Heaney’s

HOMELAND

LITERATURE | CULTURE | LOUGHS

Seamus Heaney’s poetry is imbued with a sense of place and memories of
the squelching bogs and blackberry picking of his childhood in rural County Derry.
Near Heaney’s first home, an exhibition at Seamus Heaney HomePlace highlights
references in his poetry to the local landscape and real-life characters. In the
surrounding countryside, the places that inspired Heaney wait to be explored.

How to

Getting here Bellaghy
is an easy day trip by
car from Belfast (53km)
or Derry (62km) and
driving is the best way to
explore the surrounding
countryside. Ulster-
bus 212 Express from
Belfast to Derry stops

at Toomebridge (35
minutes) and Castledaw-
son (45 minutes). From
Castledawson, bus 127
towards Ballymena stops
in Bellaghy (10 minutes),
but buses are infrequent.

What to bring Collec-
tions of Heaney’s poetry
to read on location.

ALEXMASTRO/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

JONATHAN ARBUTHNOT/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Heaney’s Inspiration

Culture fix A good place to start is Seamus Heaney Home-
Place (seamusheaneyhome.com), an arts centre in the village
of Bellaghy. The permanent exhibition here places Heaney’s
work in the context of his home and surroundings, with
audio guides making it possible to hear the poems recited by
Heaney himself. ‘Don’t miss Heaney’s duffle coat and his old
school bag,’ says Eugene Kielt, a local tour guide.

Nearby, the sculpture The Turfman (2009) by David Annand
is a visual representation of Heaney’s poem ‘Digging’. On the
outskirts of Bellaghy village, Heaney’s grave can be found at St
Mary’s Church.

Eel fishery ‘Heaney wrote a number of poems about Toome-
bridge and the eel fishery there, including “A Lough Neagh Se-
quence", about the journey of the eels from the Sargasso Sea
to Lough Neagh,’ says Kielt. Across the bridge in Toome, a 2km
walk leads along Toome canal to the shore of Lough Neagh.

Waterside ‘Heaney’s father used to raise cattle on a grassy
area – or strand – between the road and Church Island on
the western shore of Lough Beg,’ Kielt explains. ‘This tranquil
place is the setting for the poem “The Strand at Lough Beg",
dedicated to Heaney’s cousin Colum McCartney, who was
killed during the Troubles.’ From the car park at Drumanee
Rd a boardwalk leads to a wooded area, with views of Church
Island.

Left & Far left top Seamus Heaney
HomePlace Far left bottom Church
Island

Around
Castledawson

Moyola River This
river flowed a few hundred
yards from Mossbawn, the
family farm where Heaney
grew up. It’s mentioned in
‘Moyulla’ and in his essay
’Something to Write Home
About’, in which he talks
about crossing stepping
stones. There’s a riverside
walk in Castledawson.

Lagans Road The country
road that Heaney once
walked down on his way
to school – now named
Creagh Hill – is referenced
in a number of his poems.
Stop for a drink at the Old
Thatch Inn (oldthatchinn.
com) and walk from there.

Recommended by Eugene
Kielt, tour guide and B&B
owner from Magherafelt
(laurel-villa.com)

PAUL MCERLANE/ALAMY STOCK PHOTO ©

34

Hiking the

CAUSEWAY

WALKING | LEGENDS | GEOLOGY

Uneven stacks of hexagonal basalt columns form a causeway into the
ocean, an intriguing natural feature that legend says was the handiwork of
giants. The Giant’s Causeway is the area’s star attraction – and deservedly so –
but there’s more to explore along this spectacular stretch of the north Antrim
coast. So lace up your walking boots and follow our lead.

How to

Getting here/around
Buses and trains connect
Belfast and Coleraine.
Bus 172 and the seasonal
Causeway Rambler ser-
vice (April to September
) run along the coast
between Coleraine and
Ballycastle.

When to go To avoid the
summer crowds, visit in
spring or autumn.

How much Visiting the
Causeway is free. Park
in Bushmills and take
the bus to the Causeway
to avoid paying the
combined car park and
visitor centre fee (adult/
child £13/6.50).

ESTER LO FEUDO/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

LEONID ANDRONOV/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Causeway Walks

Causeway Coast Way This 50km walking trail from Port-
stewart to Ballycastle takes in dramatic cliffs, sandy beaches
and castle ruins as well as the Giant’s Causeway itself (walkni.
com). The whole trail can be covered in two days, but the most
stunning scenery is from Portballintrae to the Giant’s Cause-
way (4.3km; an entirely off-road section taking in wild coast-
line), the Giant’s Causeway to Dunseverick Castle (7.3km), and
Dunseverick Castle to Ballintoy Harbour (7.8km; check the
tide times to avoid high tide at White Park Bay).

‘As you walk towards Dunseverick Castle, there’s a bay
called Port Moon and a little fisherman’s bothy that sits in the
bay. It’s just the most amazing view when you come round
the corner and look down,’ says Mark Rodgers, a local guide.
‘If you know what you’re doing you can get down the pathway
into Port Moon and you can actually stay in the bothy as well.’
Contact the Causeway Coast Kayak Association (CCKA) for
Port Moon bothy bookings.

Heritage railway A walking and cycling path runs alongside
the tracks of the Giant’s Causeway and Bushmills Railway, a
seasonal, narrow-gauge railway, which follows the route of a
19th-century tourist tramway for 3km from Bushmills to the
Giant’s Causeway Visitor Experience. The walk crosses the
River Bush and there are pretty views across the sand dunes.

Causeway trails Several waymarked trails lead directly to the
stones or over the clifftops.

Far left top Giant’s Causeway Far
left bottom Giant’s Causeway and
Bushmills Railway

Local
Perspective

Favourite spot Port-
naboe, which means ‘Bay
of Cows’. There’s a real
sense of calmness about
it. Some of the fishermen
and old guides who
worked on the causeway
had their ashes scattered
there, and I feel very con-
nected to that place.

Favourite time of year I
like September and Oc-
tober. There’s something
very special about the
colours at that time of
year – the golds, browns
and reds. The site’s
practically empty and you
can watch the sunset at
the Causeway with a drop
of Bushmills whiskey.

Recommended by Mark
Rodgers, a guide from
Portrush (dalriadaking
domtours.co.uk)

35

Daring Scrambles

& LEAPS

COASTEERING | ADVENTURE | MARINE LIFE

The rugged shoreline of the Causeway Coast seems tailor-made for
coasteering, an adrenaline-packed adventure activity that involves scrambling over
basalt, swimming into sea caves, bobbing around on the swell in rock pools and
jumping off sea stacks. It’s an exhilarating way to explore this beautiful location,
that even the less daring can enjoy. No previous experience or special skills required.

How to

Where to do it Causeway
Coasteering (causeway
coasteering.com) in
Portrush and Coasteering
NI (coasteeringni.co.uk)
in Ballintoy offer activities
on the Causeway Coast.

When to go Summer
offers calm, clear water
and far-reaching views.

In autumn the sea is
still warm. The churning
winter seas and bracing
winds appeal only to the
super keen.

How much Around £40
per person for three
hours, including winter
wet suits, buoyancy aids
and helmets.

GARETH MCCORMACK/ALAMY STOCK PHOTO ©

STEPHEN BARNES/SPORT/ALAMY STOCK PHOTO ©

Coastal locations A number of different locations are used
for coasteering around the Causeway Coast. ‘Each one has its
own particular charm,’ says Matt Wright of Causeway Coast-
eering. ‘There are beautiful limestone caves around White-
rocks, and we go to a spot near Dunluce Castle. The headland
at Runkerry is exceptional – there are three massive caves
there – but it’s an exposed area so we only go there when
there’s no swell. And occasionally we use Ballintoy, Portbrad-
den and Kinbane Castle.’

Coasteering ‘We start with some small jumps and as the
session goes on the jumps will get higher – possibly as high
as 12m, but not everybody does those,’ says Wright. ‘If there’s
a bit of swell in the water, which there usually is on the north
coast, the whole coastline comes alive with waves washing up
and down the rocks, creating pools where the waves wash in
and then suck back out again.’

The activity also involves low-level rock climbing and scram-
bling. ‘There are no harnesses involved. You’re never really
more than your own body height above the water,’ says Bobby
Marno, lead guide at Coasteering NI. ‘There are days when
the water’s like glass. Standing on the top of the sea stacks,
you can see clearly down to the seaweed and the sand on the
bottom, and spot the odd dogfish or ray swimming about.’

Left Kinbane Castle Far left top
Coasteering group, Causeway Coast
Far left bottom Wetsuits drying,
Ballintoy

Local Tips

Marine life We’re always
watching out for dolphins
and porpoises, and we
see seals quite a bit. Every
now and then we spot
basking sharks. I’ve never
seen an orca, but they do
occasionally visit here.
There are also sea urchins
and sea anemones.

Edible seaweed When
we’re out coasteering we
nibble quite a few different
types of seaweed. There’s
one that has a sort of
garlicky, truffle taste, it’s
really surprising.

Local restaurant
Native Seafood & Scran
(nativeseafood.co.uk)
in Coleraine. They’re
opening a restaurant in
Portrush, too.

Recommended by Matt
Wright of Causeway Coast-
eering (causewaycoast
eering.com) in Portrush

SHAWNWIL23/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

36

Wild & Wonderful

DONEGAL

ATLANTIC COAST | REMOTE | ADVENTURE

With rugged coastal
scenery, sandy beaches, inland
forests and mountains, Donegal
is the place to explore Ireland’s
wild side, to try new adventures
and to experience the Atlantic
Ocean’s power. Explore the area
by walking, driving the headlands,
surfing or kayaking.

How to

Getting around
Explore by car or bike,
so you can stop off for
walks, picnics, photos
and adventures.

When to go The best
time to visit is between
May and September,
when everything is
open. Weather can be

unpredictable, so bring
warm layers and a
waterproof jacket.

Remote sleeps For un-
beatable sea views, stay
at a former lighthouse
keeper’s cottage such
as Fanad Head or St
John’s Point (great
lighthouses.com).

Coastal Headlands

With 1134km of coastline, at the start of> Ire-
land’s Wild Atlantic Way, Donegal has plenty
of rugged headlands to drive, walk or climb,
for the best Atlantic and coastal views. There
are long, golden beaches too – perfect for
walks, picnics, swimming or surfing.

Drive a loop of the Fanad Peninsula, passing
Rathmullan, and walk the golden sands or pic-
nic at Ballymastocker Bay or Ballyhiernan
Bay, visiting Fanad Head for a tour of Fanad
Lighthouse.

There’s a bridge over to neighbouring Ros-
guill Peninsula – don’t miss the 11km Atlantic
Drive for stunning views of rocky headlands
and beaches, perhaps stopping at Downings
village, which overlooks Sheephaven Bay, for
refreshments.

Gaeltacht Culture

The Gaeltacht areas in Done-
gal, including on the islands,
are where you will find the
Irish language spoken and
can experience traditional
Irish culture like music,
sean-nós (‘old-style’ songs)
and dance. There are live
traditional music sessions in
many pubs and some areas
have their own dance, such
as the ‘Waves of Tory’ reel on
Tory Island.

Left Malin Head (p230) Above left Fanad
Lighthouse Above right St John’s Point
Lighthouse

LUKASSEK/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

HARALD SCHMIDT/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

THOMAS JANISCH/GETTY IMAGES ©

On the Inishowen Peninsula, you can walk
around Malin Head, Ireland’s most northerly
point, for sea air and views – if the landscape
looks otherworldly, you might recognise it
from some of Star Wars: The Last Jedi, which
was filmed here as well as around Skellig
Michael in Kerry (p168).

Atlantic Waves

If you really want to get up close and personal
with the Wild Atlantic Way, take to the waves
with a surf school or rent a board at beaches

in Bundoran, Rossnowlagh and Dunfanaghy;
jump into a sea kayak to marvel at caves and
coves on the Inishowen Peninsula with Inish
Adventures; or climb a sea stack with Unique
Ascent.

Take a boat cruise on Donegal Bay or
Lough Swilly sea inlet, or search for undersea
shipwrecks on a diving trip with Mevagh Dive
Centre. On land, you can try rock climbing,
horse riding or cycling.

Donegal’s Islands

Tory (Toraigh) Relaxed,
rugged and remote – walk
a loop along the cliffs and
admire views of the main-
land. Look out for puffins
and seals. Don’t miss the
island’s traditional music,
singing, dancing and local
myths and legends.

Arranmore (Árainn Mhór)
Great for day trips or short
breaks for nature hikes,
fishing, cycling and kayak-
ing. For beaches, try Aphort
or Leabh Gharbh.

Gola (Oileán Ghabhla)
Just 1km off the coast,
with scattered old building
remains. Try walking or bird-
watching, visit sandy beach-
es like Tráigh na Béicí, or
kayak or paddleboard with
Gola Island Adventures.

Recommended by Henry
Doohan, tour guide, donegal
tourguide.ie
@donegaltourguide

Wildlife Spotting

Glenveagh National Park covers 160sq km and is
a good place to spot wildlife – get a map and take
one of the longer hikes away from the lake paths
and you might spot some wild red deer. Look out
for peregrine falcons and golden eagles, too.

You can also take a night-time walk with a bat
detector, to observe signs of one of the many
species of bat in the national park.

Off the coastal headlands of Donegal, dolphins,
whales and basking sharks are often spotted,
as well as seals. Seabirds like puffins, razorbills,
fulmars and kittiwakes also arrive seasonally to
breed – mostly in spring and summer.

Scenic Trails

For walking and hiking, Donegal is full of looped
trails, through woodland and forest parks, along
cliffs, beaches and shorelines.

If you have a head for heights, brave the narrow
One Man’s Path loop at Sliabh Liag for spectacular
views down the 596m-high sea cliffs, or do an early
morning climb to the top of Mt Errigal (751m). Both
hikes take three to four hours each to complete.

For a gentler walk, take the lake paths at Glen-
veagh National Park, or the beach path at Ards
Forest Park to enjoy a peaceful stroll along the
dunes and boardwalk before exploring the forest
trails on the way back.

Left Tory Island ferry Below Mt Errigal

LEFT: DESIGN PICS INC/ALAMY STOCK PHOTO ©, RIGHT: IANMITCHINSON/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

DONEGAL’S

Favourite Beaches

01 Ballymastocker
Bay

Beautiful long stretch of
golden sand with scenic
views from the Fanad
Peninsula across Lough
Swilly to the neighbour-
ing Inishowen Peninsula.

02 Culdaff Beach

Sandy Blue Flag beach
on the east side of the
Inishowen Peninsula,
with interesting rocky
outcrops at one end.

03 Port Bán Beach

A beautiful sheltered
white crescent beach

near Dunree Head on
Inishowen, reached by a
grassy track.

04 Murvagh Beach

Near Rossnowlagh
Beach and Donegal
town, another Blue
Flag spot, with dunes
that lead in to Murvagh
Forest.

05 Narin Beach

Sand dunes run along
the back of this white
sandy Blue Flag beach
at Dunmore Head and
its neighbouring beach
at Portnoo.

06 Marble Hill
Strand

Tucked away in
Sheephaven Bay, this
is a popular Blue Flag
beach for holidaymak-
ers in Dunfanaghy. The
dunes are home to
various wildflowers.

07 Rossnowlagh
Beach

Stretching for 4km,
with cliffs at one end,
this beach is ideal for
walking and is one of
Donegal’s best surf
spots for beginners.

08 Kinnagoe Bay

A secluded beach on Ini-
showen that is sheltered
by a hill. Just offshore,
there’s the shipwreck of
a 1588 Spanish Armada
ship.

09 Drumnatinny
Beach

Walk through the dunes
to reach this lovely long
stretch of sand behind
Falcarragh village,
known locally as the
‘back strand’.

01 Yevhen Nosulko/shutterstock ©, 02 Lukassek/shutterstock ©, 03 Colin Majury/shutterstock ©, 04 :Rick Buettner / Alamy Stock Photo ©,
05 Lukassek/GETTY IMAGES © 06 Scenicireland.com/Christopher Hill Photographic/Alamy Stock Photo ©, 07 arkanex/GETTY IMAGES ©, 08 Lukassek/
SHUTTERSTOCK ©, 09 magann/getty images ©

Listings

BEST OF THE REST

Cliffs & Caves

Gobbins

An exhilarating guided walk along a cliff path,
which involves navigating through a series
of tubular bridges, tunnels and caves. It’s in
Islandmagee in County Antrim.

Carrick-a-Rede Rope Bridge

This narrow rope bridge spans the 20m-chasm
between sea cliffs and a small island, near
Ballycastle on the north Antrim coast.

Marble Arch Caves

A tour of these subterranean caverns includes
a boat trip along an underwater river to view
the picturesque formations of the Calcite Cra-
dle. Near Enniskillen in County Fermanagh.

Green Spaces

Tollymore Forest Park

This scenic forest park near Newcastle offers
fabulous walks and bike rides along the River
Shimna and across the northern slopes of the
Mourne Mountains.

Cave Hill Country Park

Waymarked trails lead to the summit of this
north Belfast landmark; the view takes in the
city, Belfast Lough and the Mourne Mountains.

Slieve Gullion Forest Park

In south Armagh, this forest park has an excel-
lent children’s adventure playground and sto-
rybook trail. A scenic drive leads to the starting
point for a hike up Slieve Gullion (573m).

Botanic Gardens

The showpiece at this pretty Belfast park is
the magnificent Palm House greenhouse, a
masterpiece in cast iron and curvilinear glass.

Kilbroney Park

The views over Carlingford Lough from
Rostrevor forest are simply spectacular. The
region’s best downhill mountain-biking trails
can be found here, too.

Hill Climbs

Slieve Donard

The Mourne Mountains’ highest peak (853m)
is a straightforward climb, with far-reaching
views from the top.

Ciulcagh Mountain

A boardwalk over blanket bog forms part of
the trail up Fermanagh’s highest hill (666m).
The final ascent involves climbing stairs.

Slemish Mountain

Near Ballymena in County Antrim is the dis-
tinctive hill (438m) where a young St Patrick
is said to have worked as a shepherd.

Waterside Bites

Morton’s Fish & Chips £

Boats unload the daily catch of cod, haddock,
scallops and scampi right alongside this
harbourside hut in Ballycastle.

Pyke ‘n’ Pommes POD £

Locally sourced street food – tacos with
Tequila-battered haddock, Porter-braised
brisket or battered cauliflower; Wagyu beef
burgers – served at a riverside shipping con-
tainer in Derry.

Brunel’s £££

On the Newcastle seafront in County Down,
chef Paul Cunningham offers bold, creative
and beautifully presented plates starring local
ingredients.

Whiskey

Old Bushmills Distillery

Tours of the world’s oldest licensed distillery
include a sample of Bushmills whiskey, made
with Irish barley and water from a tributary
of the River Bush.

Pints & Trad Sessions

Leo’s Tavern

The live sessions at Leo’s are legendary, with
musicians performing nightly during the
summer and regularly throughout the year.
It’s in the Gaeltacht district of Gweedore in
County Donegal.

Crawford’s Bar

The County Down village of Rostrevor is
known for its folk music; the Fiddler’s Green
International Festival is held here in July.
Crawford’s Bar hosts regular sessions and
stocks local craft beers and spirits.

Culture

Ulster Museum

Highlights here include the Armada Room,
with artefacts retrieved from the 1588 wreck
of the Spanish galleon Girona, and the
2500-year-old Egyptian mummy Takabuti.
Located in Belfast’s Queen’s Quarter.

Ulster American Folk Park

This open-air museum in County Tyrone tells
the story of emigration from Ulster to Ameri-
ca, recreating life on both sides of the Atlantic
with original Irish cottages and New England
log cabins.

Tower Museum

Inside a replica 16th-century tower house in
Derry, this museum has exhibitions on the Ar-
mada shipwreck and the story of Derry, from
St Colmcille to the Battle of the Bogside.

Dunluce Castle

St Patrick Centre

In Downpatrick, near St Patrick’s grave, the
‘Ego Partricus’ (I am Patrick) multimedia exhi-
bition tells the story of the saint’s life.

Glebe Gallery

The late artist Derek Hill’s Donegal home is
filled with works by Tory Island artists as well
as pieces by Picasso, Hokusai and Kokoshka.
Lush gardens, too.

Castles & Country Houses

Dunluce Castle

The atmospheric ruins of Dunluce Castle sit
perched atop basalt cliffs in County Antrim.
The oldest parts date back to 1480.

Florence Court

Set in expansive gardens and wooded grounds,
with 15km of walking and cycling trails, this
grand property near Enniskillen is known for its
rococo plasterwork and antique furniture.

Castle Ward

On the shores of Strangford Lough sits this
grand house with an unusual quirk: the
front-facing facade is neoclassical to please
Lord Bangor, while the rear facade is Gothic to
please his wife.

Scan for things to see, do
and try in Ulster

RAINBOW79/GETTY IMAGES ©

Practicalities

ARRIVING

GETTING
AROUND

SAFE TRAVEL

238

240

242

MONEY

RESPONSIBLE
TRAVEL

ACCOMMODATION

243

244

246

ESSENTIALS

LANGUAGE

248

250

Right Dunquin, Dingle Peninsula (p153)

MAYDAYS/GETTY IMAGES ©

EASY STEPS FROM THE AIRPORT TO THE CITY CENTRE

Dublin is the primary point of entry for most visitors to Ireland. Located 13km north of the city centre,
the airport has two terminals: most international flights (including most US flights) use Terminal 2;
Ryanair and select others use Terminal 1. Both terminals have the usual selection of pubs, restaurants,
shops, ATMs and car hire desks. You can also fly into Shannon or Belfast.

AT THE AIRPORT

SIM cards Can
be purchased for
unlocked phones
from the SimLocal
stands or vending
machines in
WHSmith
(Terminal 1
Arrivals), Wrights
(between Terminal
1 and 2) and Spar
(Terminal 2).
Shops are open
6am to 10pm
every day and
vending machines
are accessible
24/7.

International
Currency
Exchange
ICE outlets are
located in Terminal
1 Arrivals (5.30am
to midnight) and
baggage hall
(7am to 7pm)
and Terminal
2 baggage hall
(4.30am to
10.30pm). Rates
are better at
banks in the city.

WI-FI
Free unlimited wi-fi is available
throughout Terminals 1 and 2. Select the
Dublin Airport Wi-Fi network.

ATMS
Machins linked to Cirrus, Maestro or Plus
are available in Terminals 1 and 2.

CHARGING STATIONS
Available in the seating areas of airside
Departures, but not in Arrivals.

CUSTOMS REGULATIONS

Duty-free For duty-free goods from outside the EU, limits include 200 cigarettes, 1L of
spirits or 2L of wine, 60mL of perfume and 250mL of eau de toilette.

Tax and duty paid Amounts that officially constitute personal use include 3200
cigarettes (or 3kg of tobacco) and either 10L of spirits, 90L of still wine or 110L of beer.

SKORZEWIAK/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

GETTING TO THE CITY CENTRE

Aircoach offers three routes to more than
20 city destinations. The Aircoach stop
is at zone 11 in Terminal 1, a two-minute
walk from the Arrivals area at Terminal
1. Purchase tickets from staff at the bus
stops or from the driver using cash or
contactless payment.

Airlink Express Coach operates two
routes, the 747 to Heuston Rail Station
and the 757 to Camden St. Pick up is
directly outside the Arrivals halls of
Terminals 1 and 2. Pay with exact cash or
use a Leap card.

Local Dublin buses 16, 41 and 102 all run
to various points in the city centre. Bus
stops are on the far side of the car park
outside Terminal 1. Pay with exact cash
or use a Leap card. Space for luggage is
limited.

HOW MUCH
FOR A

Taxi
€25-30
45min

Dublin Bus
€3.30
45-60min

Aircoach
€7
30-60min

Taxi
The pick-up
areas are directly
outside the
Arrivals concourse
of both terminals.
Note that not all
taxis accept credit
cards.

Plan Your Journey
Download the
National Journey
Planner app to
figure out the
most convenient
way to get
wherever you want
to go in the city.

Visitor Leap Card
Purchase from the Bus & Travel
Information Desk (Terminal 1 Arrivals) for
unlimited travel on Dublin Bus (including
Airlink airport bus services), Luas and
DART.

Choose from 1/3/7 days for
€10/19.50/40.

Top-up with additional time periods
(1, 3, or 7 days) at any Leap outlet.

OTHER POINTS OF ENTRY

Inbound ferries arrive at the Dublin Port Terminal and are met by timed, express bus services that run
to Westmoreland St in the city centre. Sail & Rail routes between Dublin and London allow travellers to
combine bus, ferry and train tickets for as little as €35 one way.

Car ferries to Belfast from Liverpool (England) and Cairnryan (Scotland) dock at Victoria Terminal, while
services from the Isle of Man arrive at Albert Quay. Both docks are less than 5km from the city centre and
shuttles are available for foot passengers.

Belfast’s International Airport is 30km northwest of the city. Taxis pick-up outside the Arrivals gate.
Expect to pay around £25; it takes 20 to 40 minutes. Buy tickets from the machines at the stops before
boarding Metro or Glider buses to the city centre.

Shannon Airport in County Clare is a one-hour drive from Galway City by car. It services numerous airport
in North America and has US pre-clearance facilities.

TRANSPORT TIPS TO HELP YOU GET AROUND

The best way to explore Ireland is by car, which allows you
to travel at your own pace and stop at scenic spots. Public
transport between major urban centres is efficient and rea-
sonably priced, and smaller towns and villages along those
routes are well served. However, services to destinations not
on major routes are less frequent and often impractical.

CAR
Driving is the most
convenient way
to explore Ireland
and cars can be
hired in every
major town and
city. Most cars are
manual; automatic
cars are more
expensive. If driv-
ing into Northern
Ireland make sure
your insurance
covers journeys to
the North.

BUS
Buses are the
most cost-effec-
tive way to get
around. Private
bus companies
compete with
Bus Éireann in
the Republic and
also run where
the national buses
are irregular or
absent. Ulsterbus
operates routes in
Northern Ireland.

CAR RENTAL
PER DAY

from €15

Petrol approx
€1.43/litre

Tolls
€1.40 to €3.10

Ireland’s rural roads can be steep, narrow and winding.
Single-track roads with blind bends can be challenging, even
without the hazard of wandering sheep. If you see an oncom-
ing car look for a passing place to pull into; the etiquette is for
the car nearest to a passing place to reverse (thank the driver
with a wave). Be aware that in the hills mist can roll in quickly,
leading to poor visibility.

BOAT

Boats serve Ireland’s offshore islands.
Ferries also operate across rivers, inlets and
loughs, providing useful shortcuts, particu-
larly for cyclists. Scenic cruises operate on
many of Ireland’s loughs and waterways.

TRAIN

Ireland’s rail network is limited but trains
are a quick and comfortable option for
certain intercity routes, including Belfast
to Dublin and Dublin to Cork. Services
are operated by Iarnród Éireann (Irish
Rail) in the Republic and NI Railways in
Northern Ireland. For the best fares, book
in advance.

DRIVING ESSENTIALS

Drive on the left,
overtake on the right.
At roundabouts, give
way to the right.

Drivers must be at
least 17 years old.

The speed limit
is 120km/h on
motorways (70mph
in Northern Ireland);
50km/h (30mph in
Northern Ireland) in
urban areas unless
otherwise stated.

The legal alcohol limit
is 50mg of alcohol per
100ml of blood.

CYCLING
Ireland’s compact size and scenic landscape
makes cycling an appealing way to get around.
The downsides are unreliable weather and narrow
country roads. A network of signed, off-road and
low-traffic cycle routes is being developed and
includes several ‘greenways’ along former railway
tracks. Bike rental is readily available in tourist
centres. There are bike-share schemes in Dublin
and Belfast.

TOLLS
Charged on several motorways, usually
by machine or booth. The M50 uses
barrier-free electronic tolling, which
uses cameras to record vehicle number
plates. Pay tolls online by 8pm the fol-
lowing day. Some car rental companies
include tolls in the fee.

SCENIC ROUTES
If you’re driving, get off the main roads
when you can: some of Ireland’s most
stunning scenery is best enjoyed on the
secondary or tertiary roads that wind
their way through standout photo ops.

KNOW YOUR CARBON FOOTPRINT

Driving from Dublin to Cork would emit about 50kg of carbon dioxide. A bus would emit 26kg
for the same distance, per passenger. A train would emit about 10kg.
There are a number of carbon calculators online that allow you to estimate the carbon
emissions generated by your journey.

ROAD DISTANCE CHART (KM)

DANGERS, ANNOYANCES & SAFETY

Ireland is safer for travellers than most countries in Europe, but it’s wise to keep
up the same level of caution as you would back home. Luckily, natural disasters are
extremely rare, and the island is even free of snakes.

THEFT & FRAUD
Don’t leave anything visible in your car when you park. Skim-
ming at ATMs can be a problem: watch out for machines that
have been tampered with and be sure to cover the keypad with
your hand when you input your PIN.

IRISH TOURIST ASSISTANCE SERVICES
ITAS (itas.ie) provides help and support to people who are
victims of crime while travelling in Ireland. The best place to
report a crime is the nearest Garda (police) station (PSNI station
in Northern Ireland). Ask for an incident report, usually required
for insurance claims and emergency travel documents.

NORTHERN IRELAND
Sectarian tensions don’t often cause problems for visitors these
days, but keep an eye on the news and avoid any areas where
riots or clashes might occur. Bear in mind that religion and
politics can be touchy topics of conversation. It’s best to avoid
Northern Ireland during the Orange Order parades of 12 July,
when tensions run high.

MIDGES
These annoying little biting insects are
most active between May and Septem-
ber, particularly in the boggy areas of
Connemara and Donegal, and often
appear in swarms around dusk. Luckily,
they don’t carry diseases.

PHARMACIES

For minor, self-limiting illnesses, phar-
macists can give valuable advice and sell
over-the-counter medication. They can
also advise when more specialised help
is required.

LEGAL MATTERS

Possession of a
small amount of
cannabis usually
attracts a caution;
other drugs are
treated more
seriously. If you
are arrested, you
have the right to
contact a lawyer
or your embassy.

INSURANCE

EU citizens with
a European
Health Insurance
Card (EHIC) are
covered for most
medical care in
the Republic. In
Northern Ireland
everyone receives
free emergency
treatment at hos-
pital accident and
emergency (A&E)
departments.

CAAMALF/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

STEFANIEMUELLER/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

QUICK TIPS TO HELP YOU MANAGE YOUR MONEY

CREDIT CARDS
Visa and MasterCard credit and debit
cards are widely accepted. American
Express is only accepted by major
chains. Chip-and-PIN is the norm for card
transactions; the limit for contactless
card payments is €50 (£45 in Northern
Ireland). Smaller businesses prefer debit
cards (and some will charge a fee for
credit cards), and a small number of rural
B&Bs only take cash.

CURRENCY

The Republic of
Ireland uses the
euro (€). Northern
Ireland uses
pounds sterling
(£), though
the euro is also
accepted in many
places.

CHANGING
MONEY

The best exchange
rates are at banks,
though bureaux de
change and other
exchange facilities
usually open for
longer hours.

CURRENCY

Euro

HOW MUCH
FOR A

Pint of Guinness
€5

Coffee
€3.50

Dinner for two
€40

DISCOUNTS & SAVINGS

Dublin Pass (dublinpass.com) Includes a hop-on, hop-off bus
tour, free entry to 30 attractions and discounted entry to 20
more.

Heritage Card (heritageireland.ie) Includes free entry to all
Office of Public Works–run heritage sites. It can be a good deal
for families, depending on how many sites you plan to visit.

ATMS
All banks have ATMs linked to international
systems such as Cirrus, Maestro or Plus.
Transactions incur currency-conversion
fees, and credit cards can incur immediate
cash-advance interest-rate charges.

TIPPING

Tipping 10% to
15% is customary
in restaurants.
Sometimes a
service charge is
added to the bill,
in which case a
further tip is not
necessary. Tipping
is not expected in
pubs or bars.

EXCHANGE
RATES

If offered a choice
of currencies
when paying by
card, choose to
pay in the local
currency (euros in
the Republic and
pounds sterling in
Northern Ireland)
rather than your
home currency.

TAXES & REFUNDS

In the Republic, most goods come with
value-added tax (VAT) of 23%, which
non-EU residents can claim back if the
store in which the goods are purchased
operates the Retail Export Scheme.
In Northern Ireland the VAT rate is 20%.
Non-EU and non-UK residents may be
able to claim back VAT under the Tax-Free
Shopping refund scheme. However, you
cannot get a VAT refund if you travel from
Northern Ireland to Britain, regardless of
where you live.

RESPONSIBLE TRAVEL

Tips to leave a lighter footprint, support local and have a positive impact on local communities.

ON THE ROAD

Look for companies that use
smaller vehicles when taking
tours to remote, rural areas.
Large coaches can clog up narrow
country roads.

Pay to use the car park at tourist
spots and don’t park on the roadside
instead. Doing so can cause
accidents and traffic delays.

Wild camping in camper vans is
not permitted in Ireland. Ask the
landowner’s permission to stay
overnight or find a legal stopover
for your camper van on total
campingireland.ie/legal-
stopovers.

Sustainable Travel Ireland
awards bronze, silver and gold
certification to sustainable hotels,
tour operators, attractions and
restaurants. Certified businesses
are listed on sustainabletravel
ireland.ie.

Recycling is available for many
forms of household waste,
including plastic, cardboard and
cans. Look for recycling bins in
self-catering accommodation.
Food waste is also separated from
non-organic waste in most of
Ireland. See mywaste.ie.

GIVE BACK

Clean up the coast Join a beach clean-up organised by Clean
Coasts (cleancoasts.org).

Drop off any leftover supplies to food banks Many supermarkets
have collection points for donated items near the tills. Donations of
non-food items, such as toiletries and household cleaners, are also
encouraged.

Food Cloud is a social enterprise that helps reduce food waste in
Ireland. Volunteers can help with gleaning: collecting leftover crops
from farmers’ fields after the commercial harvest (food.cloud).

Find out the latest ways to take action for Irish wildlife or make
a donation. The Irish Wildlife Trust campaigns for the continued
protection of Ireland’s wildlife and manages a number of wildlife
reserves (iwt.ie).

IRENE FOX/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

DOS & DON’TS

Do behave respectfully at nation-
al monuments and be sure not to
climb on or deface ancient sites.

Don’t bring up the subject of local
politics or religion unless you
are sure the topic won’t cause
offence, particularly in the North.

Do be sensitive and tactful when
discussing Irish history.

LEAVE A SMALL FOOTPRINT

Stick to the trail when hiking. Be especially
mindful not to stray off boardwalks, which are
often constructed to protect Ireland’s areas
of blanket bog.

Carry reusable shopping bags. By law,
Irish shops must charge for carrier bags, to
encourage people to reuse them.

Many coffee shops offer discounts if you
bring your own reusable cup.

Biodegradable waste can be harmful to
wildlife and the local ecosystem – remember
to dispose of it properly.

SUPPORT LOCAL

Design Ireland highlights independent Irish design-
ers and makers. Their handmade arts and crafts
make perfect souvenirs (designireland.ie).
Craft NI does the same for Northern Ireland
(craftni.org).
Eat locally. Buy fresh produce and artisan goods
at local farmers markets and farm shops. The Irish
Organic Association has a list of organic farm shops
(irishorganicassociation.ie).

CLIMATE CHANGE & TRAVEL

It’s impossible to ignore the impact we have when travelling, and the impor-
tance of making changes where we can. Lonely Planet urges all travellers to
engage with their travel carbon footprint. There are many carbon calcula-
tors online that allow travellers to estimate the carbon emissions generated
by their journey; try resurgence.org/resources/carbon-calculator.html.
Many airlines and booking sites offer travellers the option of offsetting the
impact of greenhouse gas emissions by contributing to climate-friendly
initiatives around the world. We continue to offset the carbon footprint of all
Lonely Planet staff travel, while recognising this is a mitigation more than a
solution.

RESOURCES

iwt.ie
sustainabletravelireland.ie
npws.ie
supportlocalni.com

4H4 PHOTOGRAPHY/SUTTERSTOCK ©

UNIQUE AND LOCAL WAYS TO STAY

Ireland has a range of accommodation options to suit every
budget, from hiker hostels to family-run B&Bs and luxury
hotels; look for rooms with views of Ireland’s scenic landscape
and coastline. Glamping has become popular in recent years,
with timber pods offering protection against the rain.

HOW MUCH
FOR A

Glamping pod
€80

Castle hotel
€180

Horse-drawn
caravan
€230

CASTLES, TOWERS
& GATE LODGES

If the romantic in you dreams
of staying in a castle, Ireland
might be the place to live out
your fantasies. Many of the
country’s historic castles are
now hotels, and luxurious
ones at that – check out Bally-
nahinch Castle in Connemara,
Belleek Castle in County

Mayo and Lough Eske Castle
in County Donegal. A number
of castles, towers and gate
lodges contain self-catering
apartments available to rent
as holiday lets; most are in su-
perb locations with expansive
manicured grounds.

CABIN CRUISERS
& CANAL BARGES

A lovely way to
explore Ireland’s
inland waterways
is to hire a live-
aboard motorboat
or canal barge.
The Shannon-Erne
Waterway is a
peaceful place for
a barge holiday. In
County Ferman-
agh, a number
of companies
offer self-drive,
liveaboard cabin
cruisers for explor-
ing Lough Erne. No
previous boating
experience is
required.

LIGHTHOUSES

Spectacular sea views, wild scenery and excellent
birdwatching are just some of the advantages of
spending the night in a lighthouse. Several light-
houses in Ireland are available to rent as holiday
lets, including the remote Fanad Head Light-
house in Donegal, Wicklow Head Lighthouse, and
St John’s Point lough erne Lighthouse in County
Down (greatlighthouses.com).

DESIGN PICS INC/ALAMY STOCK PHOTO ©

PETER KROCKA/SHUTTERSTOCK1 ©

GLAMPING PODS & YURTS
If Ireland’s wet weather puts a
dampener on the idea of a night
under the canvas, a glamping
pod might be the perfect alter-
native. These timber pods vary
from bare-bones bunks (bring
your own sleeping bag) to luxuri-
ous offerings with beds, cooking
facilities and even bathrooms.

The best are positioned to make
the most of their surroundings,
and often offer outstanding
views. A number of places in
Ireland also offer overnight stays
in yurts, often with wood-
burning stoves, king-sized beds
and furniture. Glamping is popu-
lar, so book well in advance.

TREE HOUSES & FOREST
BUBBLE DOMES

For something different, how
about a night in the trees? Some
are luxurious offerings with hot
tubs and mod cons, while others
are more basic. The transparent
bubble domes at Finn Lough (fin-
nlough.com) in Fermanagh make
it possible to stargaze from bed.
The domes are set in secluded
woodland on the shores of Lough
Erne.

HORSE-DRAWN CARAVAN

It’s possible to hire a traditional,
horse-drawn wagon, which
you can drive around peaceful
countryside and sleep in over-
night. Caravans have gas-fired
cooking facilities and gas lamps,
but no electricity or bathrooms.
Clissmann Horse Caravans
(clissmannhorsecaravans.com)
offer trips in County Wicklow.

BOOKING
Advance bookings are generally recommended and are an absolute necessity during
the July and August holiday period. The summer public holidays are the first Monday in
August in the Republic, and 12 July and the last Monday in August in the North.
Discover Ireland (discoverireland.ie) and Discover Northern Ireland (discovernorth-
ernireland.com) have extensive accommodation listings. Local tourist information
offices can often book accommodation on your behalf.
Daft.ie (daft.ie) Online property portal that includes holiday homes and short-term rentals.
Elegant Ireland (elegant.ie) Specialises in self-catering castles, period houses and
unique properties.
Imagine Ireland (imagineireland.com) Holiday cottage rentals across Ireland.
Irish Landmark Trust (irishlandmark.com) Not-for-profit conservation group that
rents self-catering properties of historical and cultural significance, such as castles,
tower houses, gate lodges, schoolhouses and lighthouses.
National Trust (nationaltrust.org.uk) Self-catering cottages and campsites on National
Trust properties in Northern Ireland.
Lonely Planet (lonelyplanet.com/ireland/hotels) Recommendations and bookings.
Dream Ireland (dreamireland.com) Lists self-catering holiday cottages and apartments.

VIKING HOUSE

Spend the night in
a recreated Viking
house from 1000
years ago, with
wattle walls, a
thatched roof and
a central hearth.
It’s at the Irish
National Heritage
Park in County
Wexford.

JAN SZTEMON/GETTY IMAGES ©

BOB HILSCHER/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

ESSENTIAL NUTS-AND-BOLTS

PUBLIC
HOLIDAYS

Public holidays
can cause road
chaos as everyone
tries to get away
for the break. Book
accommodation in
advance.

CROSSING THE
BORDER

There are no
border checks
between the
Republic of Ireland
and Northern
Ireland.

SMOKING

Throughout Ireland smoking indoors is ille-
gal everywhere except in private residences
and designated hotel rooms. Smoking in
cars carrying children is also illegal.

FAST
FACTS

Time Zone
GMT+1

Country Code
+353

Electricity
230V/50Hz

GOOD TO KNOW

Visas are not required
by most citizens of
Europe, Australia,
New Zealand, USA and
Canada.

In case of emergency,
dial 999 (police, fire
and ambulance).

The electricity supply
is 230V/50Hz. Plug
sockets are three-
pronged (as in the UK).

USB ports on plug
sockets are increasing-
ly common in hotels
and cafes.

Ireland uses the metric
system, except for liquid
measures of alcohol,
where pints are used.

ACCESSIBLE TRAVEL

New buildings all have wheelchair
access. Historic sites such as castles and
towers may not have lifts.

Hotels often have lifts, ramps, hearing
loops and rooms with accessible bath-
rooms. Disabled Friendly Hotels (dis
abledfriendlyhotels.com) has a database
of accessible accommodations.

Parking bays for people with disabili-
ties are generally available at shopping

centres and other attractions.

City buses usually have low-floor access
and priority spaces on board. Not all Bus
Éireann Expressway and Regional services
are wheelchair-accessible. Note that many
rural bus stops are not accessible.

Useful resources include Accessible
Ireland (accessibleireland.com) and
AccessAble (for Northern Ireland;
accessable.co.uk).

MOBILE PHONES

European phones
work in Ireland.
Check internation-
al phones are not
locked to a local
network.

PUB ROUNDS

In pubs it’s usual
to take turns to
buy a round of
drinks for the
whole group.

GREETINGS

Shake hands and
make eye contact
when meeting
for the first time
and when saying
goodbye.

TIME
In winter (November to March) Ireland is
on Western European Time, also known as
Greenwich Mean Time (GMT) or Universal
Time Coordinated (UTC). In summer (April
to October), clocks shift to GMT/UTC plus
one hour, also known as Irish Standard
Time (IST) or British Summer Time (BST).

BREXIT

As part of the treaty that took the UK out of the EU, the Northern Ireland Protocol
guarantees an open border in Ireland, without additional border checks or formalities.
This means Northern Ireland continues to follow many EU rules relating to imports and
exports.

FAMILY TRAVEL

Public transport is free for children
under five.

Hotels can usually provide cots with
advance notice. Some bigger hotels
offer kids clubs during school holidays.
Some B&Bs do not accept children.

Restaurants generally have high
chairs, children’s menus and
baby-changing facilities. High-end
restaurants may be unsuitable.

Pubs do not allow under-15s in
after 9pm.

Visitor attractions nearly all cater
to children and offer reduced-price
tickets for kids and families.

LGBTIQ+ TRAVELLERS

Although a generally tolerant place for LGBTIQ+
travellers, Ireland’s LGBTIQ+ community continues to face
discrimination and homophobic abuse.

Same-sex marriage has been legal since 2015 (2020 in
Northern Ireland).

Well-established gay scenes exist in Dublin, Belfast,
Galway and Cork. Pride is celebrated in all four cities.

Leo Varadkar, Taoiseach from 2017 to 2020, was Ireland’s
first openly gay head of government.

Gay Community News (GCN; gcn.ie) is a monthly magazine
with local news and features.

DIRK HUDSON/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

LANGUAGE

Irish (Gaeilge) is the country’s official language.
Despite this, it is really only spoken in pockets of rural
Ireland known as the Gaeltacht. Ask people outside
the Gaeltacht if they can speak Irish and they will
probably reply, ‘ah, cúpla focal’ (a couple of words).

Irish divides vowels into long (those with an accent)
and short (those without). Other than a few odd-
looking clusters, such as mh and bhf (both pro-
nounced as w), consonants are generally pronounced
as they are in English.

BASICS

CÚPLA FOCAL

SIGNS

Index

A

accessible travel 248

accommodation 246-7

activities 8-9, 22-9

art 20-1, 210-11

ATMs 238, 243

B

beaches 14-15, 14-15

Annestown Beach 117

Ballymoney Beach 105, 106

Barleycove Beach 141

Brittas Bay 91

Clogher Beach 154

Cork 138-41

Curracloe Strand 106, 108-9

Derrynane Beach 160-1

Donegal 232-3

Duncannon Beach 105, 106

Fanore Beach 193

Fermoyle Beach 166

Garrylucas Beach 140-1

Inch Strand 156

Inchydoney 141

Kerry 156, 158-61, 166

Kilgorman Strand 105

Maharees 166

Morriscastle Beach 106

Silver Strand 141

Tramore Beach 117

Warren, the 141

Waterford 117, 118-19

Wexford 104-7

Wicklow 90-1

Beara Peninsula 131

beer 6, 146

Belfast 210-11, 214-15

birdwatching 10-11, 68-9, 107, 170-

1, 178, 189, 190, 195

Blasket Islands 159, 160

boat travel 91, 107, 176-9, 190, 240

bodhrán 19, 187

bogs 11, 200

Brexit 249

Burren, the 29, 192-3, 194-5, 193

bus travel 240

C

Caherconree 166

canal barges 246

car travel 13, 240, 241

Castlecomer Discovery Park 111

Castledawson 223

castles 246

Blackrock Castle 135

Blarney Castle 135

Bullock Castle 67

Dalkey Castle & Heritage

Centre 67

Dunlough Castle 136

Dunluce Castle 235

Gleninagh Castle 193

Howth Castle 71

Kilkenny Castle 120

Lismore Castle 120

Causeway Coast 27, 224-5, 226-7

caves

Crag Cave 175

Doolin Cave 200

Marble Arch Caves 234

children, travel with 56-9, 104-7,

110-11, 174, 178, 249

churches 120, 143, 147, 175, 201

Clara Vale Nature Reserve 95

cliffs 14-15, 14-15

Cliffs of Moher 188-91

climate 22-9, 43

coasteering 91, 227

Copper Coast 116-17, 117

Cork 122-47, 124-5

accommodation 127

activities 132

beaches 138-41

castles 134-7

drinking 127, 146-7

driving tour 130-3

English Market 144-5

festivals 131, 147

food 127, 128-9, 146

islands 138-41

itineraries 142-3

money 127

navigation 127

planning 124-5

travel seasons 126

travel to Cork 126

travel within Cork 126

wi-fi 127

Cork City 142-3, 143

crafts 120, 175, 201, 203, 245

credit cards 243

Croagh Patrick 201

culture 4-5, 43, 72-3, 112-15, 175,

186-7, 229, 235

currency 243

customs regulations 238

cycling 9, 241

Atlantic Coast Route 9

Ballinastoe Mountain Bike

Trail 96

Cycling Greenway 117

Great Western Greenway 185,

201

D

Dalkey 66-7, 67

Dark Sky Parks 13

Derry 213, 222-3, 235

Dingle 164-7, 172-3

distilleries

Cork 146-7

Dublin 76

Glendalough Distillery 97

Jameson Distilleries 76, 146

Micil Distillery 203

Old Bushmills Distillery 235

Powerscourt Distillery 89

diving 199, 230

dolphins 11, 69, 90, 139, 170, 172-3

Donegal 228-31, 232-3

driving 13, 240, 241

Dublin 46-77, 48-9

accommodation 51

culture 72-3

drinking 55, 74, 76

festivals 73

food 51, 52-5, 74, 77

history 60-1, 62-3

itineraries 30-1, 66-7, 70-1

money 51

music 76

navigation 51

parks 56-9, 75-6

planning 48-9

shopping 75, 76

tours 77

travel seasons 50

travel to Dublin 50

travel within Dublin 50

wi-fi 51

wildlife 68-9

E

Easter Rising 60-1

English Market 144-5

environment 241

etiquette 243, 245, 249

events 22-9, 113

F

family travel 56-9, 104-7, 110-11,
174, 178, 249

Fermanagh 216-19

festivals 5, 22-9, 204-5

Cork 131, 147

Dublin 73

Electric Picnic 24, 205

Fleadh Cheoil na hÉireann 205

Galway 22, 23, 205

Harvest Festival 163

Kerry 162-3

Kilkenny Cat Laughs 205

Lughnasa 163

Puck Fair 163

St Brigid’s Day 27, 163

St Patrick’s Day 28

Wicklow 89

Winterval 26

film 45, 65, 108-9, 168-9, 214-15,
220-1

Fleadh Cheoil na hÉireann 205

flowers 193, 194

food 16-17, 42

forts 136, 166, 175

Fungie 172-3

G

GAA (Gaelic Athletic Association)
5, 23, 112-15

Gaeltacht 4, 42, 153, 229, 288

Galway 22, 23, 186-7, 204

Game of Thrones 220-1

gardens 120

Botanic Gardens (Belfast) 234

Dublin 58, 75-6

Garden of Remembrance 57

Irish Sky Garden 136

Kells Bay Gardens 174

National Botanic Gardens

(Dublin) 58

National Botanic Gardens,

Kilmacurragh 87

Russborough House &

Parklands 86-7

glamping pods 247

Glendalough Monastic
Settlement 96

Glendalough Valley 94

Granuaile 196-7

Great Western Greenway 185, 201

Guinness Storehouse 75

H

Hazelwood Forest 200

Heaney, Seamus 222-3

hiking 9, 245

Burren, the 192-3, 193

Caherconree 166

Causeway Coast 224-5

Cliffs of Moher 189

Croagh Patrick 201

Donegal 231

Howth 70-1, 71

Ireland Way 9

Kerry Camino 29, 156-7, 157

Ulster 234

Wicklow 92-5

history

Civil War 64-5

Easter Rising 60-1

Kerry 175

revolutionaries 61, 62-3

000 Map pages

West of Ireland 200

horse riding 96, 106, 201

horse-drawn caravans 247

Howth 70-1, 71

hurling 112-15

I

Imbolc 27, 163

insurance 242

internet resources 45, 245, 247

islands

Bere Island 139

Blasket Islands 159, 160

Cape Clear 139

Dalkey Island 67

Donegal 230

Dursey Island 139-40

Garnish Island 140

Saltee Islands 107

Sherkin Island 140

Skellig Islands 160, 168-9

Tory Island 21, 38, 230

Valentia Island 160

itineraries 30-41, see also

individual regions

K

kayaking 91, 107, 129, 132, 199

Kerry 148-75, 150, 157

accommodation 151

beaches 158-61

crafts 175

culture 175

drinking 151, 164-7, 174-5

festivals 162-3

food 151, 155, 174

history 175

islands 158-61

itineraries 150

money 151

navigation 151

parks 174

planning 150

travel seasons 151

travel to Kerry 151

travel within Kerry 151

wildlife 170-1

Kerry Camino 29, 156-7, 157

Kilkenny 110-11

Killary Harbour 200

Kilmainham Gaol 75

kitesurfing 106, 199, 201

L

lakes 216-19

Lough Erne 217-18

Lough Ree 178

language 4, 43, 288

LGBTIQ+ ravellers 249

lighthouses 71, 91, 160, 173, 229

246

literature 5, 7, 44, 75, 159, 205,

222-3

M

Mahon 116-17

markets 17

Belfast 209

Christmas 26

Cork 129, 144-5, 147

Dublin 53

West of Ireland 202

Mayo 196-7

midges 242

mobile phones 249

monasteries 218

money 51, 243

murals 20-1, 210-11, 212-13

museums

14 Henrietta Street 73

Butter Museum 143

EPIC 73, 75

GPO Museum 61

Little Museum of Dublin 75

MoLI 74

National Museum of Ireland –

Country Life 200

National Museum of Ireland –

Decorative Arts & History 73

Tower Museum 235

Ulster Museum 235

music 18-19, 44, 76-7, 186-7, 235

N

national parks 12-13

Ballycroy 13

Connemara 200

Glenveagh 231

Killarney 174

National Botanic Gardens 58

National Botanic Gardens,

Kilmacurragh 87

Wicklow Mountains 96

Wild Nephin Ballycroy 200

Northern Ireland 242

O

O’Malley, Grace 196-7

P

parks

Bonane Heritage Park 174

Castlecomer Discovery Park 111

Cave Hill Country Park 234

Dublin 56-9, 75-6

Fitzgerald’s Park 142

Glanteenassig Forest Park 167

Glenbeigh Fairy Forest 174

Gleninchaquin Park 174

Kilbroney Park 234

Slieve Gullion Forest Park 234

Tollymore Forest Park 234

podcasts 44

pubs 27, 43, 177, 249

Dingle 164-7

Dublin 55, 74

Galway 186-7

Kerry 174-5

Ulster 235

R

responsible travel 241, 244-5

S

safe travel 242

Sally Gap 96

Saving Private Ryan 108-9

Shannon 176-9

Skellig Islands 160, 168-9

Slea Head 152-5

Sligo 198-9

Southeast 98-121, 100-1

accommodation 103

activities 117, 120

beaches 104-7

boat travel 107

drinking 103

food 103, 121

itineraries 36-7, 100-1, 116-17

money 103

planning 100-1

travel seasons 102

travel to the Southeast 102

travel within the Southeast 102

wi-fi 103

sports 5, 23, 112-15

Star Wars 29, 168-9

stately homes

Bantry House & Garden 137

Doneraile Court 137

Fota House 136-7

Killruddery House & Gardens 86

Powerscourt House & Gardens

85

Russborough House &

Parklands 86-7

stone circles 133

street art 210-11, 212-13

surfing 9, 91, 159, 198-9, 230

T

tipping 243

Titanic 214-15

traditional music 18-19, 76-7,

186-7, 235

train travel 240

travel seasons 22-9

travel to/from Ireland 238-9

travel within Ireland 240-1

tree houses 247

U

Ulster 206-35, 208

accommodation 209

drinking 209, 235

food 209, 234

hiking 224-5, 234

internet access 209

money 209

planning 208

travel seasons 209

travel to Ulster 209

travel within Ulster 209

V

Viking houses 247

W

walking, see hiking

Waterford 118-19

weather 22-9, 43

West of Ireland 180-203, 182-3

accommodation 185

activities 185, 200, 201

drinking 186-7, 203

food 185, 202-3

itineraries 38-9, 40-1, 192-3

money 185

navigation 185

planning 182-3

tours 202

travel seasons 184

travel to the West of Ireland 184

travel within the West of Ireland

184

wi-fi 185

Wexford 104-7

whales 11, 139, 140, 171, 173

whiskey 76, 89, 97, 203, 235

Wicklow 78-97, 80-1

accommodation 83

activities 90-1, 96

beaches 90-1

drinking 83, 97

festivals 89

food 83, 88-9, 96-7

hiking 92-5

money 83

navigation 83

planning 80-1

shopping 97

tours 96

travel seasons 82

travel to Wicklow 82

travel within Wicklow 82

wi-fi 83

wildlife 10-11, 68-9, 170-1, 172-3,

189-90, 194-5, 217, 231

wine 89

Y

yurts 247

000 Map pages

NOELLE KELLY

Noelle is a travel writer, blogger and yoga teacher from
Thurles, Co Tipperary. She enjoys travelling slowly,
learning about new cultures, cuisines, and nuances of
wherever she’s exploring. When not on her yoga mat,
Noelle shares her adventures on her website.

WanderingOn.com

FIONÁN MCGRATH

Irish-born, part-time Canadian, Fionán has lived in
six countries and loves off-the-beaten-track travel
activities especially wild camping and bike packing.

My favourite experience is wandering around Cork
City. I always end up in the English Market sampling
the gastronomic delights.

My favourite experience is bike packing around
West Cork.

ORLA SMITH & NEIL ARTHURS

Dubliners, Neil and Orla, found they shared a love for travel
and adventure when they met in Sydney back in 2004.
Neil’s skills as a professional photographer and Orla’s
passion for travel writing helps to keep them on the road.

My favourite experience Neil’s favourite experience
is capturing the Northern Lights in Iceland. Orla’s
is midnight swimming among bioluminescence in
Lough Hyne in the south of Ireland.

THIS BOOK

Design development
Lauren Egan, Tina Garcia,
Fergal Condon,

Content development
Anne Mason

Cartography
development
Wayne Murphy, Katerina
Pavkova

Production development
Mario D’Arco, Dan Moore,
Sandie Kestell, Virginia
Moreno, Juan Winata

Series development
leadership
Liz Heynes, Darren
O’Connell, Piers Pickard,
Chris Zeiher

Commissioning Editor
Daniel Bolger, Fergus
O’Shea

Product Editor
Amy Lynch

Book Designer
Fergal Condon

Assisting Book Designer
Ania Bartoszek

Assisting Editors
Lorna Parkes, Gabrielle
Stefanos

Cover Researcher
Lauren Egan

Thanks Gwen Cotter,
Sandie Kestell, John Taufa,
Saralinda Turner

Our Writers

ISABEL ALBISTON

Born in London and raised near Belfast, Isabel returned
to Ireland in 2018 after living in Australia, Argentina and
Spain. Jobs have included writing for newspapers and
magazines, working as a Buenos Aires tour guide, and
contributing to 15 Lonely Planet guidebooks.

BRIAN BARRY

Cork-native Brian is a travel writer, photographer
and digital nomad who has explored more than fifty
countries. An adventure sports enthusiast, lover of
the outdoors and independent travel advocate, Brian
prefers the road less travelled.

WanderingOn.com

My favourite experience is hiking the Causeway
Coast Way, taking a bracing dip in the sea, and eating
local seafood in a pub overlooking the ocean.

My favourite experience is road-tripping around West
Cork, enjoying the spectacular scenery, finding hidden
beaches, and immersing yourself in the Irish outdoors.

YVONNE GORDON

Dubliner Yvonne Gordon is an award-winning travel
writer and photographer, specialising in adventure
travel and contributing to publications including The
Sunday Times, The Washington Post, Wanderlust, BBC
Travel and AFAR.com.

ÚNA-MINH KAVANAGH

Kerrywoman Úna-Minh is an Irish speaker and
multimedia creator who edits the good news website
WeAreIrish.ie. She’s a live-streamer who broadcasts
in Irish and English on Twitch (twitch.tv/yunitex).

@unaminhkavanagh
@unaminh

My favourite experience is exploring the wild, remote
side of County Donegal – surfing the amazing beaches,
kayaking under cliffs and hiking the headlands.

My favourite experience is being among Irish-speaking
communities. The Kerry Gaeltacht is one of my top
places to visit, particularly Baile na nGall village.

Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reasonable care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about
the accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maximum extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use.

All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic,
mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired,
without the written permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered
in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial
establishments, such as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip.

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