The Pocket Guide to Spring and Fall Turkey Hunting: A Hunter's Quick Reference Book (Skyhorse Pocket Guides)
Author: Monte Burch
Date: 2015-09-01 06:00:00+00:00
Keywords: Firearm
Publisher: Skyhorse
Rights: All rights reserved

Copyright © 1989, 2015 by Monte Burch

First Skyhorse Publishing edition 2015

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10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1

Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data is available on file.

Cover design by Brian Peterson

Cover illustration: Thinkstock

Print ISBN: 978-1-63450-448-5

Ebook ISBN: 978-1-63450-466-9

Printed in China

CONTENTS

INTRODUCTION

1. GUNS

2. SHOTSHELLS

3. BOWS

4. CALLS

Friction Box Call

Small Box Call

Peg-and-Slate Calls

Mouth Calls

Diaphragm Mouth Calls

Locator Calls

5. CLOTHING

6. DECOYS

Blinds

7. SCOUTING

8. SETTING UP

9. CALLING

Kelp

Purrs and Whines

Pert

Cluck

Cackle

Lost Call

Kee-Kee Run

Fighting Purr

Gobble

10. SHOOTING

11. FALL TURKEY HUNTING

12. TURKEY HUNTING SAFETY

13. WILD TURKEY RECIPES

General Tso Turkey Bobs

Deep-Fried Turkey Appetizer

Turkey Cutlets

Grilled Turkey Appetizer

Sweet & Sour Turkey

Turkey Fajitas

ABOUT THE AUTHOR

INTRODUCTION

Turkey hunting has become one of the most popular hunting sports in America. Thanks to modern game management, increasing enforcement of poaching problems, the work of organizations such as the National Wild Turkey Federation, and a growing respect and love for their favorite trophy by hunters, the wild turkey population has been growing across the country. Turkey populations are now higher in many parts of the country than before the settlement of this country. Wild turkeys have also been successfully stocked in many areas where they were non-existent or never plentiful.

Wild turkey hunting offers a great deal to the hunter; first, the enjoyment of being in the woods and hunting during the best times of the year. It’s hard to beat the pleasant experiences of spring when everything in the outdoors is bursting with new life. In the fall, the brilliantly colored woods and cool days beckon just as enticingly.

The single most important reason for the popularity of turkey hunting is the challenge offered. Wild turkeys, especially a mature gobbler, hunted properly in a one-on-one situation can be the single toughest, smartest, spookiest trophy in America. Turkey hunting is always exciting and challenging and as often frustrating as rewarding. Many hunters find it quite addictive.

Although certain skills and gear are required to consistently take turkeys, turkey hunting is not just for experienced woodsmen. The necessary skills and techniques can be learned quite easily by almost anyone with practice and the desire. You can also successfully hunt turkeys with a minimum of gear. A simple camouflage suit, one box call, and a gun and shells are the basic requirements.

You may wish to carry this book in your pocket and refer to it as necessary until you master the woodsmanship and skills needed to hunt one of America’s greatest trophies. Good Luck and enjoy your hunts!

1. GUNS

Although almost any shotgun can be used for turkey hunting, a number of turkey hunting models are available.

Like most guns, turkey guns are highly personal. Your best choice, if you’re already a shotgun hunter, may be an old favorite—one you’re familiar with and can shoot well. For the first timers or even the experienced turkey hunters choosing a gun specifically for turkey hunting, some guns are better suited than others. Turkeys have been killed with everything from .410s to 10 gauges. Turkeys can be hard to kill and you can be under gunned with a lightweight such as a .410. On the other hand, a 10 gauge is not a good choice either, although often touted as a good turkey gun. Although a 10 gauge does have more killing power, it tends to create long-range shooters and more crippling of birds.

A 12-gauge semiautomatic, chambered for 3-inch magnum shells, is probably the single best choice in a turkey gun, although pump and double fans will argue. The semiautomatic offers more and quicker back-up shots, although three shots (but normally two) are usually the limit you’re going to get at a wild turkey.

Choke choice depends on the hunting situations. A modified choke is a good choice when shots are normally less than 30 yards. Since you want as dense a pattern as possible, a full choke is quite often the preferred choice. Screw-in chokes can solve the problem of adjusting the choke to the situation and a number of chokes designed just for turkey hunting are available. You may also find that a particular choke works best in your specific gun at normal turkey shooting distances of 25 to 35 yards. A double barrel, choked modified and full, provides the ultimate choke answer, as you can pick the choke you need at the time.

Double Barrel

Semi-auto

Pump

Many companies manufacture specialty turkey hunting guns. These are 3-inch to 3-1/2-inch chambered guns, equipped to easily handle magnum loads, and are dull or camo-finished on both metal and wood. Slings provide a comfortable and easy means of carrying, especially when you also have to pack out a big gobbler. Another feature of a specialty turkey gun is a short barrel so the gun can be swung easily in the brush and woods. Nothing is more frustrating than watching a bird strut within easy shooting distance and not being able to get your gun up because of a branch or bush. I’ve shot and tested any number of turkey guns, but my old reliable is really old: a Remington Model 1100 Special Purpose Magnum semiautomatic, the first special-purpose gun manufactured by Remington. I’ve taken many turkeys with it, over a number of years, in a wide variety of conditions and in numerous states.

It is extremely important to match shotshells to your particular gun. A full-sized turkey-head target can be used at different yardages with different loads and different chokes to determine the best loads for your gun, as well as where and how it shoots best.

2. SHOTSHELLS

Choosing the correct shotshell is just as important as selecting the right gun. Just any old shotshell may not provide the correct shot and power to knock down and kill an old gobbler. These days, any number of special purpose shells, designed just for turkey hunting, are available. And they tend to perform better than standard shells.

Winchester copper-plated Double X Magnum turkey loads, packaged in 12 gauge, 3-inch magnum with a maximum load of powder and two ounces of No. 6 shot, have proven to be the single most effective load in my old gun. And over all the years I’ve only lost one turkey I shot with it, mostly because I didn’t get my head down on the stock and shot over the bird. Each gun, however, will pattern somewhat differently and it’s important to find a load that best suits your gun. Some hunters prefer to use No. 5 or No. 4 shot, and some even larger such as No. 2s. Due to safety reasons, however, many states prohibit shot sizes larger than No. 4 for turkey hunting. The heavy shot causes more problems when hunters are accidentally shot.

Regardless of all else, it is extremely important to pattern your gun with a number of different shotshells to determine the brand and loads that perform best in your gun. Patterning your gun is easy and fun. A number of different methods can be used, but shooting at a drawing of the profile of a turkey head provides the best target to judge your pattern. Excellent turkey patterning targets are available from a number of sources. “Splatter” targets that explode in color on impact, such as Birchwood Casey’s Shoot-N-C targets, show hits immediately. Or you can simply double up your fist, turn it sideways and trace around it for a simplified turkey target.

Pattern your gun with different loads at 20, 30, and 40 yards, which should be the outside distance of shots taken. You should also determine the best choke for your gun with various loads at the different distances. Patterning will reveal the best choke and load for your gun and demonstrate whether your gun shoots high, low, left, right, or right on.

3. BOWS

Bowhunting turkeys is one of the most challenging aspects of the sport. It takes a dedicated hunter to be proficient enough to shoot turkeys with a bow. Then it takes skill in getting birds in close, or getting close to birds. It also takes a good dose of luck.

Almost any type of bow, or crossbow where legal, can be used for hunting turkeys; however, it should be camouflaged. A bow of at least 45-pound pull, commonly used for deer hunting, would be a good choice. Arrows should be matched to the bow weight. The biggest problem in arrowing a turkey is the bird flying off, especially if the arrow completely passes through the bird. Broadheads with opening blades can help prevent the problem, as they prevent some shoot through and create more killing shock. The main key to success, however, is to hit the bird correctly in order to kill it quickly with a bow. Basically, you’re shooting at a spot the size of a silver dollar and accuracy is extremely important. From the side, the best shot is where the top of the wing meets the body. A shot at this location will break the backbone and one or both wings. The only other consistently successful shot is from the back, through the center of the spine between the top of both wings.

Side target

Back target

4. CALLS

Although calls and calling seem somewhat complicated with the wide variety and types of calls available, it is still possible to use them simply and productively. If used properly, a plain old-time box call will bring in just as many birds as the latest call designs.

The basic types of turkey calls include mouth calls such as the diaphragm and tube diaphragm, wingbone or “yelper,” wooden friction calls which are available in a wide variety of designs, and peg-and-slate-type friction calls. Shaker-type gobbler calls are also available.

FRICTION BOX CALL

This venerable old call design dates back to the early woodland American Indians of the East Coast and is still one of the most widely used. With this type of call almost anyone can call turkeys. I’ve taught youngsters to properly use a box call within minutes. It’s easy to master and almost trouble free (if you keep it dry and the lid chalked.) These calls were originally made of cedar, but today they’re made of a wide variety of woods and in any number of styles, although in one basic shape.

A friction box call is one of the easiest calls to use and one of the oldest designs.

The sounds of the yelp are made by pulling the chalked lid across the lip of one side of the box. Varying the pressure, starting point of the lid and edge, and speed of the hand movements produces the different sounds. With a good learning tape or by listening to an experienced hunter, almost anyone can learn to call turkeys within a matter of minutes. In some instances the call is tuned so one side of the call can be used to produce a higher-pitched call, such as that of a hen, and the opposite side used to produce the coarser sound of a gobbler yelp.

Clucks and perts are produced by tapping the lid sideways and stopping the movement with the thumb of your opposite hand. Purrs and whines are made by slowly drawing the lid softly across the box. Even the cackle can be produced by holding the lid in place with the fingers of one hand and bouncing the palm of your hand against the lid handle with your opposite hand. A gobble can be produced by shaking the call vigorously, usually while held upside down. About the only turkey sound that is hard to produce is the high-pitched Kee-Kee whine used by young turkeys and a primary call for fall turkey hunters.

A box call does have a few disadvantages. It requires two hands to operate, which means taking extra care in camouflaging your movements, especially when working close-in turkeys. It also simply will not work if it becomes wet, and humid weather can cause changes in the tone. A box call is also a bit awkward to transport in the woods, and unless properly carried, it can rattle and make lots of noise. One friend wraps an old black sock around the lid before placing it in his pocket to ensure the box won’t rattle while traveling through the woods.

SMALL BOX CALLS

In addition to the traditional long hollow box design with the attached lid, a wide variety of other friction-type box calls are available, including those called “scratch box” calls. In some cases they’re more effective and easier to use than the old-style boxes. The first advantage is they’re usually quite a bit smaller and so easier to transport. In fact, most of them will fit in the breast pocket of a shirt or coat quite easily. About their only disadvantage is, again, that they won’t work when they become wet. The most common type consists of two pieces: a small hollow box with a separate wood striker. These calls are also easy to use, and first timers will find they can often call turkeys first shot with these handy little calls.

Push button calls are extremely easy to use one-handed. Dual plungers can be used to make fighting purr sounds.

To use, grasp the small wooden “striker” between the thumb and second or first finger of one hand and scrape the lipped edge of the hollow box against the chalked striker. Or you may prefer to hold the box and scrape the striker across the lid. These boxes are excellent for close-in work because they can produce remarkably realistic perts, purrs, and whines. Because of their small size, it’s a bit easier to camouflage your hand movements even while using both hands.

Another excellent small box call is the push-button style. It can be used with one hand, so movement is not a problem. You can hold it down against your leg, completely concealed, for really close-in work. To use, merely hold the box in the palm of your hand and give a tap or push on the spring loaded plunger. Some come with two plungers, enabling you to recreate the sounds of fighting purrs, and at times this can be extremely deadly to the turkey.

PEG-AND-SLATE CALLS

These are also quite common and one of the original styles of turkey calls. Several different models are available, but they all work by scraping the end of a piece of wooden peg, or in some cases a plastic stick, across a piece of slate or “glass.” The slate is usually held in a hollow wooden box, or more often these days, a plastic case, which acts as a sound chamber. In the old days these were often made of terrapin or turtle shells. The peg is stroked across the slate to produce the sound. Moving the peg in different locations and varying the pressure produces a variety of sounds.

Peg-and-slate calls can be used to make great soft purrs and whines.

The peg and slate can be used for the yelp, purr, whine, and clucks, and is especially effective as a close-in call. With practice it can be held and used with one hand, holding the sound box with the heel of your hand against your knee or thigh and scraping the peg across the slate with the tips of your fingers. This makes the call quite easy to camouflage when working a cautious bird.

MOUTH CALLS

These consist of two different types, the tube call and the wingbone or yelper. Tube calls were originally designed around tobacco snuff cans; most are made of plastic or wood today. They can be used with one hand and are easy to carry, and can be used for almost all turkey sounds. They are somewhat hard to learn to use, but can be used to create yelps, purrs, putts, and whines, and an excellent gobble.

The wingbone mouth yelper can make extremely realistic turkey sounds but is somewhat difficult to use.

One of the oldest designs of turkey calls is the mouth yelper. Originally made of the hollow wing bones of a hen turkey, these days they are also made of turned wood. These calls are somewhat difficult to master, but make extremely realistic turkey sounds.

DIAPHRAGM MOUTH CALLS

These small calls are placed in the mouth and have become increasingly popular with hunters, for obvious reasons. They are economical, easy to carry, and, most important, can be used hands-free, which means you can work close-in birds without the danger of spooking them with the hand movements needed with all other calls. With a nervous old tom you can simply lean back against a big old tree, insert the call in your mouth, and call. You can hold your gun up in position with both hands and use a variety of calls to bring him into range.

Diaphragm mouth calls can be used hands free to make a wide variety of turkey sounds.

The second most important advantage of mouth calls is they can be used to produce every sound a turkey makes. That’s the good news; the bad news is they can be somewhat difficult to use and many first-timers tend to overcall with them. Learning to use a diaphragm mouth call, however, is somewhat akin to learning to ride a bicycle, wingshoot, or swim. At first it may seem impossible, but with perseverance and practice, suddenly it will happen and you’ll be making “turkey-like” sounds instead of grunts and groans. From then on it’s merely a matter of refining your sounds and experimenting with the call to produce the various sounds used. One definite advantage to mouth calls is you can use them to produce the fall turkey hunting sounds no other calls do quite as well.

The first step in learning to use a mouth call is to adjust to having it in your mouth. Place the call in your mouth and use your tongue to roll it around—up against the roof of your mouth, over to one side, and so forth. Once you become comfortable and lose the tendency to gag, position the call up against the roof of your mouth and hold it lightly in position with the center portion of your tongue. Then huff air across the membrane and you’ll eventually get a loud screech. By varying the amount of pressure with your tongue and the amount of air forced through the call, you can vary the pitch and volume of the call. Once you learn to make the basic yelp, the other calls such as putts, perts, whines, purrs, cackles, and gobbles will come easier.

LOCATOR CALLS

Turkey gobblers will often respond to a variety of other sounds, gobbling to reveal their position. In the old days, simply slamming a car door would often get a gobble, but not today. Locator calls such as crow, peacock, pileated woodpecker, and even coyote are available and sometimes used. An owl call is one of the most common—I’ve been making the sound of a barred owl by mouth since I began hunting turkeys, and it’s fairly easy. Whether by mouth or blowing into a call, say the words “Who COOKS For You. WHO COOKS FOR YOU ALL.” The last sound or word should be rolled in your throat, fluttering your tongue at the same time to produce the rolling sound of a barred owl. The owl call is most successful early in the mornings and late in the evening; the other sounds can be used throughout the day.

Locater calls, such as the owl call shown here, are used to make gobblers gobble in order to locate them.

5. CLOTHING

When I first started turkey hunting, the only camo clothes available were army surplus. I killed my first gobbler in blue jeans and an old duck hunting jacket. These days, a bewildering array of camouflage clothing styles and patterns are available. Comfort and a camouflage pattern to suit the habitat you hunt are the two most important requirements in turkey hunting clothes. It’s important to choose the pattern that is best for your particular hunting area. If you hunt primarily in dark timber, look for a pattern with larger blobs of dark brown, green, etc. If you hunt in more open areas, look for those with a lighter tree-bark design. If your spring season changes or greens up fast, you may prefer a pattern with more green; if you hunt in the grasslands, look for a pattern with more of that design. As today’s camouflage patterns became available, I hunted with just about every pattern you can imagine. Actually, they all work if you use good woodsmanship.

Regardless of where you hunt, turkey hunting occurs in changeable weather. Not only through the seasons, but often throughout the day as well. You’re apt to start out in the darkness of a cold morning and end up at noon under a brilliant hot sun. The solution is to wear layered clothing. Start out with a lightweight long-john style underwear. The top should be a camouflage design in case you need to strip down to it during the heat of the day. Over this, wear a camouflage shirt and pants. This may be all that is needed in mild climates. If hunting in hot climates, wear a net jacket over a short-sleeved camouflage T-shirt. A heavier camouflage jacket may be needed for cold climates. Make sure the clothing has a soft finish so it will not create a noise when moving through brush and tree limbs.

Serious turkey hunting takes a lot of walking, and if your boots don’t fit, or they allow your feet to get cold or wet, you’re going to be miserable. Again, a wide array of “hi-tech,” waterproof, insulated and very comfortable hunting boots are available. In some instances you may need snake-proof boots, or rubber knee boots. I need the latter for our farm because a running creek bisects it and turkeys are invariably on the opposite side of where I’m hunting.

You will also need a camouflage cap or hat and gloves. Camouflage gloves are necessary as hand movement is one of the biggest problems in spooking turkeys. Better buy two pairs because you will invariably lose one of your gloves. You will also need either a head net or use camouflage face paint. Full head nets provide the best camouflage but some are hard to see out of, particularly in the darkness of the early morning. Half nets are much easier to see with and are a must for those with glasses. They’re also simpler and easier to use. You don’t have to remove your hat or cap to remove or replace them, simply pull them up in place when needed. A full head net, however, may be the best choice in areas with lots of gnats and mosquitoes. Some prefer the face paint to head nets as it is less bothersome. In some areas, a lightweight rain suit may also be important.

A comfortable seat cushion is one of the most important items you can carry into the woods. If you’re uncomfortable and squirming or fidgeting, you aren’t going to get a chance at a wary gobbler. Several seat cushions are available in lightweight foam, covered with camouflage materials and straps for easy carrying. In days past I also carried a small day or fanny pack for calls and lunch. These days, both of those pieces of gear have been pretty well replaced by the turkey vest. I was actually a day late when it came to turkey vests. The vests hadn’t been invented, and I took a prototype to the Shooting, Hunting, and Outdoor Trade Show many years ago. But others in the industry already had the same idea, and turkey vests were created that year. Now, a wide variety of vests are available with a comfortable cushioned seat and backrests, a pocket for toting out your gobbler, and more pockets than you can remember where you put everything.

The popular turkey vest can be used to carry all your calls and gear, and then to tote your trophy out of the woods.

6. DECOYS

Decoys can be used to bring an old gobbler in close, but they must be used safely.

When I began turkey hunting, there were no manufactured decoys, and when they became available, they were illegal in some states. Nowadays, turkey hunting decoys are very important to many hunters. They, however, tend to be overused. I rarely use them except when I’m taking a less experienced hunter. Decoys do tend to keep the turkey’s attention focused away from the hunter. Today’s decoys are extremely realistic and it’s important to use safety rules when using them. Position the decoys well away from you and out of the line of sight of a hunter coming toward you. They should also be carried in and out of the woods in a hunter-orange bag. Don’t use decoys on heavily hunted public lands.

These days, decoys are available as extremely realistic hens, jakes, and gobblers. With your own “flock” you can create a variety of scenarios. Toting in a number of decoys can be frustrating, however, and it’s important to match the set-up to the situation. The simplest setup is a single hen, and this can not only be easy to manage in transportation and setup, but also an effective gobbler getter. One of the biggest problems with decoys is getting them set up without a gobbler spotting or hearing you. An alternative is to use a single jake decoy, but one of the most effective is to use a hen and a jake. Most gobblers will come in fairly quickly to run the youngster off. I like to make the jake even more enticing by painting the wattles bright red. Two or three hens and a jake can be even more effective, but takes more work and time to set up. This is an extremely effective method if you’re hunting from a blind that has already been set up, and the decoys can be stored in the blind. Simply set the decoys out when you get to the blind.

Extremely realistic strutting toms are also available. Needless to say, their use can be dangerous. These decoys can be effective or not, depending on the circumstances. First, most are awkward to transport and definitely should be covered with hunter orange while transporting. If you’re hunting a dominant tom, a tom in strut decoy and a pair of hens can be dynamite. If you’re hunting a non-dominant tom, the strutting tom may scare the other gobbler or gobblers away.

BLINDS

Another very important piece of turkey hunting gear these days is the portable blind. Again, a wide variety of pop-up style blinds are available, and they can be extremely helpful for first-time hunters or when hunting with youngsters. They are also a great help when bowhunting turkeys.

Some extremely simple blinds can be toted easily and set up immediately for a quick hide. Other, more complicated blinds are best set up before the hunt in areas turkeys frequent, such as along field edges, strut zones, and wooded clearings. Of course, never set up and leave a blind on public lands or areas where they might be stolen.

These blinds, along with comfortable chairs and a decoy “flock” can be great for hunting with youngsters. Blinds can even be permanent. More than one youngster has taken their first gobbler from one of my permanent blinds set up over a food plot.

Portable blinds help conceal hunter movement, making them great for hunting with youngsters.

7. SCOUTING

As with most hunting, turkey hunting success depends on locating the game. The first step is to pick an area to hunt. In the days when turkeys were a bit more scarce, picking the right area was important. Turkeys are just about everywhere these days, but if hunting out of state or a new area, information from state fish and game departments can reveal best areas. Harvest data from past seasons, as well as maps and brochures listing public hunting lands are all available from state agencies. Aerial photos and topographical maps will reveal more detailed information such as streams, open fields, areas with mature timber, brush, and so forth.

With paper scouting done, walk the area before the season opens, looking for sign such as scratchings, droppings, tracks, and lost feathers. Turkey scratchings are easy to find in the woods as you’ll see numerous small scrapes where turkeys have scratched away the forest duff to get at acorns and seeds. You can often determine which way the birds are headed by the debris thrown backwards as the birds feed. Gobbler droppings are usually J-shaped while hen droppings are small round masses. Dropped breast feathers can be good scouting signs. Gobbler breast feathers are black tipped while hen breast feathers are buff tipped. It’s hard to distinguish between gobbler and hen tracks, but tracks do indicate the presence of birds.

Turkeys leave scratched-out areas in the dirt, leaves, and forest duff as they search for food.

An even more effective way of scouting for turkeys in the spring is by sound. Scout early in the morning and late in the evening a week or two before the opening of the season. Listen for birds to gobble in the mornings and to fly up to roost in the evenings. Giving an owl call will quite often get a response from birds that are quiet during these times. Do not, however, use turkey calls to locate birds. You’ll only educate the smart old gobbles.

STRUT ZONES

Gobblers like to strut in areas where they can be seen, not in the deep brush or woods. They often find a spot they frequent each day for their strutting and they may have more than one area, depending on hen location. Typically, gobblers will have a core strutting area. They will often fly down to these areas, or depending on hen movement, follow the hens to another location. These areas are often out in open fields, along fairly open benches of mountainous area, woods clearings, logging roads, and sometimes even backyards and public roads. Gobblers can usually be found in these areas the same times each day during the peak of the breeding season. Locate one of these areas and, even if you don’t get a gobbler off the roost, you can often get in place and ambush a gobbler. They’re also great places to set up blinds. We have one such area we can see from our office window, and the show is guaranteed each year.

Make maps of the area, and each time you hear a gobble mark a compass or GPS point on the map from your location to the bird. Then mark the approximate location of the bird on the map. Indicate time of day as well. It’s a good idea to locate several birds in this manner just before the season begins. Then, if you happen to have problems with one bird, or another hunter comes in on him, you can quickly move to another bird. Do not be tempted to call in gobblers while scouting. You’ll only educate the birds.

Serious turkey hunters locate several toms before the season begins.

The tactic can also be used to locate birds during the actual hunt. If possible, “put the bird to bed” or get him to gobble on the roost the night before you intend to hunt. Then you can move in quickly and easily the next morning without trying to first locate a bird. Naturally if you don’t locate a bird the night before, the first step in the hunt is to locate a gobbler, again using the same tactics. Some gobblers, however, just won’t respond to locator calls.

8. SETTING UP

Once you’ve located a gobbler, quickly move as close as possible without spooking the bird. This is where many hunters make the mistake of getting too close and spooking the bird. Knowledge of the terrain can help a great deal, and here again good scouting really pays off. The terrain and vegetation decides the distance you must move on the bird. The figure most hunters attempt is 100 yards although this may be too close in open timber and not close enough in heavy cover. It is extremely important to move as quickly yet as quietly as possible to a spot and set up on the bird. A compass or GPS can often help in locating a gobbler that gobbles infrequently. The moment you hear a gobble, take a reading and head that direction. Going through and around heavy cover, you’ll know you’re headed in the right direction, even if the bird shuts up on you. This also makes it simple to head back the direction you came after hunting the bird. Simply follow 180 degrees of heading or your back track from the heading you took to get to the bird.

The first step in locating a gobbler is usually hearing him gobble.

How and where to set up is probably the single most important factor in a successful turkey hunt. Set up in a clearing, the edge of an old logging road, or other fairly open area so you will have plenty of visibility. Determine the approximate path the gobbler should take to get to you and set up facing that direction. It’s actually best to set up facing at a slight angle to provide the best shot with your gun. A right-handed shooter should face slightly to the right of the route the gobbler should take. Swinging left is easier than swinging to the right to follow a bird. Pick the biggest tree you can find. This not only breaks up your outline, but also provides some protection from getting shot in the back should another hunter come to your calls. If a big tree isn’t handy, a rock or boulder may work, but in snake country look carefully as these heat attractors draw snakes in early spring. Don’t crawl into a brush pile or sit down in thick brush or high weeds. You’ll be concealed from the turkey, but won’t be able to see, may not be able to get off a shot, and won’t be afforded protection from other hunters.

Proper setup is the key to successfully hitting a turkey. Sit comfortably and rest your gun on your knee until the gobbler is within shooting range.

If possible sit on the shadow side of the tree or boulder. Us your seat cushion and whatever means you can to get completely comfortable. Remove all your calls and whatever else you may need and place within easy reach. Make sure your gun is loaded, the safety is on, and complete any necessary camouflaging. Position your knees up about chest height and place your gun in your lap so you can slide it up on your knees for a solid shooting rest. Relax, take a deep breath, and get ready to start calling to the gobbler.

9. CALLING

Calling is important, but too many hunters give it too much importance. Keep it simple and you’ll have more consistent success. Below are the basic sounds made with a mouth diaphragm. Various other calls can be used for each sound following the manufacturer’s instructions. Give a series of soft perts and purrs, followed by a slightly louder series of yelps. You can also use other sounds to create a realistic situation, including flapping your cap or hat to recreate the flapping wing sound of a fly down, or if birds are close in, using your hand to scratch in the leaves.

KELP

The kelp or yelp is the basic sound given by all turkeys. To learn to create the sound, place the diaphragm in the roof of your mouth and then, holding your tongue against it, blow through the diaphragm to produce a loud screaming sound. Now tone down the force of air and at the same time you blow, say the word “Kelp.” With practice you can learn to produce the two note “ke—lp.” Then learn to vary the tongue and air pressure to change the pitch and volume, producing loud, soft, low, and high kelps. Different diaphragm calls can produce softer or coarser yelps.

PURRS AND WHINES

The purr or whine is a soft call given by all turkeys, usually when feeding or contented. It’s a great confidence call. Fluttering your lips at the same time you blow softly across the call produces the sound. The sound usually increases in pitch at the end and stops sharply.

PERT

A soft pert is given by satisfied birds, but a loud pert can become PUTT, or the danger signal. To produce the sound, pop your lips together at the same time you blow through the diaphragm call. Mix the purrs, whines, and perts together to produce the sound of contented turkeys.

CLUCK

The cluck is a basic turkey sound created by popping your tongue off the roof of your mouth at the same time you blow through the diaphragm. Pretend you have peanut butter in your mouth. It’s an attention getter, and given softly will often bring in a wary old gobbler. Again, given too loud and it becomes a PUTT.

CACKLE

Although the cackle can be an effective call, it can also be easily overused. Use it only as a last resort. The cackle is a high-pitched series of yelps, starting out low in pitch and fairly slow, and then progressing faster and in a high pitch. Then drop the pitch down fast. Sometimes, when you can’t get a gobbler to respond, you may get some response by throwing “trash” at him—cackles, perts, and whines interspersed with yelps. If an old hen starts to scold you, simply repeat everything she says right back at her. This will quite often bring in a gobbler fast.

LOST CALL

Given primarily in the fall, the lost call can, however, be effective anytime. The call is a progressively more demanding series of yelps, starting out slow and low then moving louder, faster, and more demanding.

KEE-KEE RUN

The kee-kee run is the high-pitched whistling sound made by young turkeys separated from the flock, and it sounds like Hurry-Hurry-Hurry-Hurry when made. To produce on the diaphragm, push hard on the diaphragm with your tongue to get a sharp, high-pitched whistle and say the words Kee-Kee-Kee-Kee as you force air through the call.

Regardless of what type of call you use—box, diaphragm, and so forth—make your first calls soft and tentative. The first calls should be a series of soft yelps, called “tree yelps” because these are often locating calls given before the birds leave the roost. Although sound is important, rhythm is the key to any type of game calling. The series should be a soft, three to five note yelp-yelp-yelp-yelp-yelp. Don’t make any other sound for some time, even if the old gobbler hollers his head off. Wait him out. The biggest mistake is overcalling. Wait about fifteen minutes and then give a series of soft perts and purrs, followed by a slightly louder series of yelps.

You should have a hot gobbler by now, so listen for him to fly down from the roost. If he does and heads your way gobbling, get your gun up and ready and don’t move or make a sound after that. If your gobbler heads the other direction or stays put and gobbles, you’re going to have to work him a bit. Again, start soft with perts, purrs, and yelps, and then use increasingly loud and demanding calls. Finish with a cackle, the sound made by an excited hen or one being mated.

With luck you’ll have your gobbler, but it rarely works that way. Normally you have to work a lot harder when an old gobbler struts and gobbles just out of shooting range. That’s when the real fun begins. A gobbler strutting and gobbling just out of range and in full sight can be awesome. I’ve had hunters shake so bad they dropped their gun, breathing so hard you worry they might have a heart attack. But I love it. This is where you throw everything in the book at them in the way of calls. I also like to make other sounds; for instance, if I’m well hidden from the gobbler, scratching in the leaves. Usually the reason the gobblers won’t respond is they’re with hens. If you can call the hens to you, using soft purrs and contented feeding sounds, you can also drag in the gobblers. But it does take patience, and once you have the hens out in front, you’ve got more eyes to spot you. Quite often a hen will not like the competition and start scolding you. Scold her right back, you’ll be surprised at the argument you can create repeating her sounds. And more than one old gobbler has fallen to my gun coming to see what the argument was about.

FIGHTING PURR

Another extremely effective call is the fighting purr, made by two gobblers in a fight. You can simulate this by creating a purr with your mouth and at the same time creating a purr on a slate. The best and easiest method is to use a fighting purr call, using a small push-button box call with two buttons to push. This is basically a “last minute” attempt to entice a gobbler you can see hung up just out of shooting distance. It may take some time to get him started, but once committed they’ll usually come in running.

GOBBLE

Then there is the gobble, and it should be the last call used, again if nothing else works. This also can be effective or not, and in some instances can also be dangerous, as you may call other hunters to you. The call can be made using a box call, gobbler shaker, or with a mouth call (if experienced enough). Used with the sound of a cackle, a gobble may entice even an extremely hesitant gobbler, but again, use with caution.

10. SHOOTING

You’ve done everything right, located and called in a big gobbler, and now he stands before you in full strut. Now comes the tricky part—making a good killing shot. As discussed earlier, turkeys can be hard to kill if you don’t use the right gun and shot. They can also be hard to kill if you don’t shoot them properly.

The first step in a successful shot is to make sure you have your gun up on your knees and resting comfortably so you can hold it still until the bird presents a good shot. You may have to hold the gun still for a very long time. In some instances, such as when a bird catches you in the open, the best position is lying on your stomach, holding the gun out in front. In all instances it’s important to keep your cheek down on the gun stock to prevent shooting over the bird.

Second, watch your distance. I hear of birds being killed at 60 and 70 yards, but I don’t want to hunt with those guys. Forty yards should be your maximum, and the ideal range is 25 to 30 yards. Closer-in shots can, however, be as tricky as distance shots since the relatively small target of the head and neck can be missed with a tight shot pattern. Now comes the important part—make sure you can identify the target as a turkey and, if spring gobbler hunting, don’t shoot until you can clearly distinguish the beard.

Center your shotgun bead on the center of the turkey’s neck, where the feather line meets the wattles below his beak and just below where the head and neck join. Don’t shoot at the body or too low on the neck. Your pattern should produce a combined head and neck shot, the only consistently productive shot to take. Always wait until you get the best shot, don’t rush or try to swing on a moving bird—you’ll rarely make it.

If the bird is strutting, wait until he turns his back to you, get your gun ready, and when he turns around facing you give a loud pert. He will stick his head up and you must be ready to fire immediately. Don’t shoot while the bird has his head tucked down in a strut.

If the bird is moving in front of you, wait until he steps behind a tree, then get ready to put the bead on him when he steps out from behind the tree. If a bird comes from behind you, don’t move; wait until he moves around in front of you. Don’t attempt to jump up and swing on him. As soon as you shoot your turkey, put your safety back on and get to the bird as quickly as possible. Watch out, however, don’t get spurred by a flopping bird.

If you put all this together, you’ll have one of the most exciting hunting experiences of your life and collect one of the most valuable hunting trophies: a mature wild gobbler.

11. FALL TURKEY HUNTING

During the fall season, you can hunt hens and young of both sexes in some locales.

Fall turkey hunting is popular in many states, and it can also be fun and productive, although it is a great deal different than hunting spring birds. Fall tactics may vary for different hunters. Some like to ambush fall birds, others like to stalk them. Fall bird patterns can be extremely consistent, and my favorite tactic is to locate and watch a flock of birds, set up where they will pass by me, and simply sit and wait. It takes patience, but is extremely productive.

Traditional fall turkey hunting for many, however, consists of locating a flock of birds, scattering them to the four winds, then hiding and calling the birds back. The tactic is extremely effective because turkeys are quite gregarious birds and most flocks are made up of hens and young birds. Once scattered, they are anxious to get back together.

Turkeys usually have two major feeding times: the first hour or two after they leave the roost, and then an hour or so before sunset. During the fall and winter months, however, they often feed throughout the day. If you observe a fall flock feeding in an area, you can almost bet on them being in the same general area at the same time the next day or two, or until the food supply runs out. Either scatter or ambush them.

Hunting fall turkeys is a pleasant way of spending a day or two in the woods. Take your time, slip through the woods as quietly as possible, and watch for turkeys. A pair of lightweight binoculars can be extremely valuable. You should also watch for turkey sign, such as tracks, droppings, feathers, dusting areas, and scratchings.

Once you locate a flock, the fun begins. First, take note of their direction of travel—maybe you can set up and ambush. If that isn’t possible, run at them whooping and shouting as loud as you can. If you can get close enough with your cavalry charge and can create enough commotion, you’ll have birds going in all directions. Once you bust up the flock, find a spot to set up and call the flock back together. Stay right in the area where the birds flushed from and don’t chase them after they flush. Look for a spot where you have good concealment but can see in all directions. It’s hard to predict which directions the birds may come back from. Make sure you have your back well protected by a big tree.

When you’re comfortable, start calling. The main call used for regrouping a flock of scattered turkeys in the fall is the Kee-Kee call, the “lost bird” or distress call made by both young gobblers and hens. It is a high-pitched sort of whining call that will attract turkeys of all ages and sex, although mature gobblers may not come as readily to the call. The call should be made fairly soft at first, then increase in intensity and volume, interspersing it with soft clucks and kelps to add to the authenticity. If you bust up the flock late in the evening before they go to roost, wait and come back to the exact spot the next morning, set up and call. Very rarely will mature gobblers come to this type of call, but sooner or later some birds will come back to the spot they flushed from and you’ll have a chance to collect your Thanksgiving dinner. If you’re in an area with mature gobblers, or spot them, you can sometimes set up and call them in by using coarse gobbler yelps, but this method usually takes a lot of patience.

In some states, bow season runs through the early winter months, and hunting turkeys then can also be fun. Combining treestand or ground blind bow hunting for deer and turkeys can be productive at that time. Make sure you’re on a feeding route the flock uses.

12. TURKEY HUNTING SAFETY

Statistics show that not only is turkey hunting the most dangerous of the hunting sports, but most accidents are caused by experienced hunters. A number of safety rules should be followed to ensure your safety as well as other hunters in the woods.

1. Don’t attempt to approach closer than 100 yards to a hen or gobbler.

2. Never stalk the sounds of a turkey, it could be another hunter.

3. Never presume what you see or hear is a turkey.

4. Never select a calling site with your back to a tree smaller than the width of your shoulders.

5. Never select a calling site where you can’t see at least 40 yards in all directions.

6. Don’t try to hide so well you can’t see what’s happening around you.

7. Don’t think full camouflage makes you totally invisible.

8. Never wear red, white, or blue clothing, not even undergarments, socks, or a hanky of these colors.

9. Never jump and turn suddenly because you hear a sound that could be a turkey behind you.

10. Don’t use a gobbler call unless it’s one of those rare situations where circumstances really warrant trying something different and you can see all around you. Never use a gobbler call on heavily-hunted public lands.

11. Don’t wave at a passing hunter—instead say something clearly and loudly.

12. Make sure you can identify your target as well as the background behind it. Make sure you can see a beard before you shoot if gobbler hunting.

13. If using a decoy, position it out of the direct line of fire of any hunter approaching you. Always carry a decoy in a hunter orange bag or pack when moving in and out of the woods.

14. When you’re moving out of the woods or if you have shot a turkey, wrap a hunter orange cloth around the bird or over your shoulder when moving through the woods.

13. WILD TURKEY RECIPES

Not only is the wild turkey a great game bird and trophy, it can also be great on the table. Wild turkey meat is somewhat dry compared to domestic turkey, and an old gobbler can be tough. Although we occasionally cook the entire bird, especially if a young fall bird, we normally breast out the wild gobbler. Below are some of our favorite recipes.

GENERAL TSO TURKEY BOBS

Slice a boneless wild turkey breast across the grain into thin strips. Brush the strips with General Tso oriental cooking sauce (or other favorite oriental sauce). Let the strips marinate for twenty to thirty minutes. Pierce the strips onto bamboo skewers, brush with additional sauce, and grill or roast. Serve over rice with grilled red, green, and yellow sweet peppers, cherry tomatoes, and sweet onion quarters.

DEEP-FRIED TURKEY APPETIZER

Slice a boneless wild turkey breast across the grain into thin strips and then into 1-inch pieces. Stir the diced turkey in a bowl of canned milk and then into seasoned flour. Spread the coated pieces onto a baking pan lined with wax paper and allow the coating to harden for a few minutes. Fry in deep fat until browned and then drain onto paper towels. Serve with your favorite dipping sauce—we like sweet/sour. Note: Larger pieces of turkey can be prepared in the same manner and served as the main course.

TURKEY CUTLETS

Slice a boneless wild turkey breast across the grain into large cutlets. Tenderize if cut over ¼-inch thick. Salt and pepper both sides and dredge in flour. Panfry in your choice of cooking oil. Remove to a heated platter, drain off any excess oil, and then stir flour into the pan drippings. Add milk, salt, and pepper to taste and serve the gravy over the cutlets and mashed potatoes.

GRILLED TURKEY APPETIZER

Slice a boneless wild turkey breast across the grain into ¾-inch strips and then cut into ¾-inch pieces. Marinate the chunks in a garlic and herb marinade. Wrap half strips of bacon around each turkey piece and hold the bacon in place with a toothpick. Grill over hot coals until the turkey and bacon is cooked, but do not overcook. Brush with barbecue sauce while cooking, if desired. Serve straight from the grill.

SWEET & SOUR TURKEY

Slice a boneless wild turkey breast across the grain into 1-inch strips and then into 1-inch chunks. Marinate the meat in soy sauce for at least twenty minutes. Drain the meat and roll in cornstarch. Fry the turkey chunks in a skillet or wok, adding only the oil needed. Remove the cooked turkey to a warm platter and clean the wok if needed. Add a tablespoon of oil and cook your favorite vegetables. We like carrots, onions, celery, and red, yellow, and green peppers. When the vegetables are tender-crisp, add the meat and a drained can of pineapple chunks. Use the pineapple liquid to make a sweet-sour sauce from scratch or as the liquid in a packet of sweet-sour seasoning. Stir in the sauce and serve over rice.

TURKEY FAJITAS

Slice a boneless wild turkey breast across the grain into ½-inch strips. Cook the meat in a large skillet in a couple of tablespoons of oil, stirring often. When the meat is no longer pink, remove from the skillet. Cut onions and bell peppers into thin strips and cook in skillet, adding oil as needed. Return cooked meat to the skillet along with a package of fajita seasoning and cook according to package directions. Serve in warm flour or corn tortillas along with toppings of your choice including shredded cheese, salsa, sour cream, guacamole, diced tomatoes, and shredded lettuce.

ABOUT THE AUTHOR

A full-time outdoor photojournalist, author Monte Burch resides on a farm in south central Missouri managed for wildlife and has been studying turkeys for many years, seeing turkeys daily. He also spends hours in the woods photographing turkeys, with numerous cover and other photos published by national magazines. He is also a regular contributor to major national magazines and the author of over seventy books. Monte has been turkey hunting for almost half a century in a number of states, from east to west, north to south, often spending almost three months each year turkey hunting.

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