About the Authors

Ever since packing his bag and leaving North Carolina, Christopher N. Anderson (chapters 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 15) has accumulated over thirteen years of traveling and writing experience. From crossing Siberia and sailing the Caribbean, to teaching English in Russia, Brazil, Switzerland, Austria and France, his diverse experiences have provided excellent fodder for his writing, featured in publications such as the Vienna Review, Frommer’s and Yanks Abroad. In addition to his traveling exploits, he has earned a Master’s in International Relations and speaks fluent French and German along with conversational Italian, Portuguese, Spanish, and Russian. More recently, he covered and reported live from the FIFA World Cup in South Africa.

Half-Swiss, half-American, Caroline Sieg’s (chapters 2, 4, 5, 14, 16, 17, 18, 19) relationship with Germany began with childhood trips to Munich to visit her Polish-German aunt. Later, she visited Berlin for the first time in 1989—two weeks after the Berlin Wall fell—and obtained her own piece of the wall. Later, she lived in Berlin and explored the often-overlooked northern part of the country. These days, she hangs her hat in London, but visits Germany as often as possible to indulge in Kaffee und Kuchen (coffee and cake), sniff out the best currywurst and explore the latest gallery opening.

Frommer’s Star Ratings, Icons & Abbreviations

Every hotel, restaurant, and attraction listing in this guide has been ranked for quality, value, service, amenities, and special features using a star-rating system. In country, state, and regional guides, we also rate towns and regions to help you narrow down your choices and budget your time accordingly. Hotels and restaurants are rated on a scale of zero (recommended) to three stars (exceptional). Attractions, shopping, nightlife, towns, and regions are rated according to the following scale: zero stars (recommended), one star (highly recommended), two stars (very highly recommended), and three stars (must-see).

In addition to the star-rating system, we also use seven feature icons that point you to the great deals, in-the-know advice, and unique experiences that separate travelers from tourists. Throughout the book, look for:

special finds—those places only insiders know about

fun facts—details that make travelers more informed and their trips more fun

kids—best bets for kids, and advice for the whole family

special moments—those experiences that memories are made of

overrated—places or experiences not worth your time or money

insider tips—great ways to save time and money

great values—where to get the best deals

The following abbreviations are used for credit cards:

AE American Express

DISC Discover

V Visa

DC Diners Club

MC MasterCard

Frankfurt

Cosmopolitan and bustling, Goethe’s hometown flanking the River Main is the undisputed financial powerhouse of Germany. It rightly earns it its nickname “Mainhattan,” but it’s a fun-loving city at heart. Frankfurt’s also known for luring 1.5 million visitors annually to its international trade fairs. The best known is the International Book Fair, when some 5,500 publishers from nearly 100 countries converge, lending the city a distinctly intellectual reputation. Overall, Frankfurt is surprisingly contradictory—soaring skyscrapers sit next to half-timbered houses and frenetic shopping streets hide cozy apple-wine taverns.

Things to Do Start at the Altstadt (old town) in the city center and admire the Römerberg’s (square) 14th and 15th-century half-timbered houses. Nearby is the Goethe-Haus, the writer’s birth abode showcasing his original desk and library. Gaze down at the Altstadt from inside the elegant, Gothic tower of Dom St. Bartholomäus, then meander south over the pretty Eiserner Steg foot bridge to the museum-lined Museumsufer embankment. Don’t miss Städel Museum, full of works by Renoir and Monet, and 14th- to 16th-century masterpieces.

Nightlife & Entertainment Nightlife centers around Sachsenhausen, south of the River Main. This entire area feels like one big open-air bar on the weekend—stroll along Schweizer Strasse or Textorstrasse for the widest selection of drinking spots, from cocktail bars to wine taverns. Try Frankfurt’s famously tart Ebbelwei (apple wine) when you stopy by Adolf Wagner for a convivial evening Frankfurt-style.

Restaurants & Dining Small bites like sausages with rolls fill the food-minded Fressgasse (literally “Munch Alley”) northwest of the Altstadt—it’s lined with snack stalls and small restaurants. Or choose from Asian menus on banker-populated Schillerstrasse. Sample regional Hessian cuisine like Tafelspitz (boiled beef) or pork schnitzel; try either with green sauce (a mix of seven herbs including parsley and chives). Don’t miss the Kleinmarkthalle market with regional specialties, fresh produce and several sausage stands, often with long lines. Both are available south of the Altstadt at Historix, a historic wine cellar with modern, vast glass windows.

Relaxation Stroll through the park and botanic garden Palmengarten in the Westend, especially its Tropicarium, a brilliant explosion of tropical vegetation. In summer, take your towel to Frankfurt’s Main River lidos; the shady Freibad Brentano is a favorite. Or lounge on the open deck aboard the Primus Line, while it takes you down the river through the city. For a leisurely tour, passengers on the Apple Wine Express lumber through town on a tram and sip local apple wine.

Essentials

Frankfurt

Getting There

By Plane Flughafen ( 180/53724636;www.airportcity-frankfurt.de) lies 11km (7 miles) from the city center at the Frankfurter Kreuz, the intersection of two major expressways, A3 and A5. This airport, continental Europe’s busiest, serves more than 290 destinations in about 110 countries worldwide. Not only is it the country’s primary international gateway, all major airports can be reached via Frankfurt. Flying time from Frankfurt to Berlin or Hamburg is 70 minutes; to Munich, 60 minutes. For the status of flights coming in and out of the Frankfurt airport, call 180/53724636.

At the Airport Train Station beneath Terminal 1, you can connect to German InterCity trains and S-Bahn commuter trains to Frankfurt and nearby cities. Terminal 2 is linked to Terminal 1 by a people-mover system, Sky Line, which provides quick transfers.

For information about S-Bahn trains and regional trains departing from the Frankfurt airport to other points in and near Frankfurt, or for information about trains headed from the Frankfurt airport to more distant destinations, call 01805/996633 or visit www.bahn.de. S-Bahn lines S-8 and S-9 between the airport and Frankfurt center runs every 10 minutes and deposit passengers at the main rail station in 11 to 15 minutes. A one-way ticket costs 3.90€. Purchase tickets before boarding.

By Train Frankfurt’s main rail station, the Hauptbahnhof, the busiest in Europe, is the arrival point for some 1,700 trains per day carrying about 350,000 passengers. Trains arrive from most major cities in Germany every hour until 8pm. Many other European cities also have direct rail links with Frankfurt. For travel information, ticket reservations, and seat information, call Deutsche Bahn ( 01805/996633) or visit www.bahn.de.

By Bus Frankfurt has long-distance bus service to about 700 German and European cities. Buses depart from the south side of the Hauptbahnhof. For information, contact Deutsche Touring GmbH, Am Römerhof 17 ( 069/7903501;www.touring.de).

By Car The A3 and A5 autobahns intersect at Frankfurt. The A3 comes in from the Netherlands, Cologne, and Bonn, and continues east and south to Würzburg, Nürnberg, and Munich. The A5 comes from the northeast (Hannover and Bad Hersfeld) and continues south to Heidelberg, Mannheim, and Basel (Switzerland). From the west, the A60 connects with the A66, which leads to Frankfurt and the inner city, hooking up with the A3. Road signs and directions are frequently posted.

Visitor Information

The tourist office is in two locations: at the Hauptbahnhof, opposite the main entrance ( 069/21238800;www.frankfurt-tourismus.de), open Monday to Friday 8am to 9pm, and Saturday and Sunday 9am to 6pm; and in Römerberg 27 ( 069/21238800), open Monday to Friday 9:30am to 5:30pm, and Saturday and Sunday 10am to 4pm.

City Layout

Most of Frankfurt’s sights, nightlife, restaurants, and hotels lie in the Stadtmitte (town center). However, chances are you’ll cross the Main River to visit the museums or Apfelwein (apple-wine) taverns in the Sachsenhausen area as well. It is also possible that you’ll seek out both restaurants and hotels in the increasingly fashionable Westend. Most of the other areas of Frankfurt probably will not concern you, unless you’re hunting for intriguing restaurants in the Nordend (North End) or even nightlife in the Ostend (East End).

Most of the heart of Frankfurt can be covered on foot. Nearly all the main sights lie within the boundaries of the old town walls, which today form a 5km-long (3-mile) stretch of narrow parkland, almost a perfect half-moon around the Altstadt (Old City). Once one of the great old towns of Europe, around 85% of the Altstadt was blasted to rubble in two horrendous air raids in 1944. Some of its buildings have been sympathetically reconstructed in the old style.

The Römerberg, in the historic heart of the city, is an ideal place to begin your exploration of Frankfurt. Once the site of Charlemagne’s fort, it grew into a prominent marketplace in the Middle Ages. Now, its reconstructed half-timbered houses look out over the animated square. Just east of the Römerberg, the red-sandstone Kaiserdom rises over the foundations of buildings dating back to the Roman times. Although called a “Dom,” it isn’t technically a cathedral, though it did host the coronation of ten Holy Roman emperors between 1562 and 1792.

The Zeil runs to the north of the Dom/Römerberg area between the twin transportation hubs of Konstablerwache and Hauptwache. Frankfurt’s prime shopping district lies in this area, with the MyZeil mall and all the international brands in a pleasant pedestrian zone. The Hauptwache itself, an 18th-centruy baroque guardhouse, stands just a stone’s throw from the Börse (stock exchange). The Goethe Haus and Goethe Museum lie a few minutes away by foot to the west of the Dom/Römerberg area. Continuing further west, the skyscrapers of the financial district, jokingly called “Main-hatten,” rise out of where the western ramparts stood until the 19th century. The Main Tower with its candy-cane antenna is the only one accessible to the public.

Even further west, and past an admittedly unappealing district that often tarnishes visitor’s impressions and should be avoided if possible, stands the Hauptbahnhof. If you’re arriving by train, walk down the safer Kaiserstrasse straight in front of the station to get to the financial district and Stadtmitte, or take the U-Bahn two stops to Dom/Römer.

The Main River is south of the Dom/Römerberg area, flowing from east to west. At some point during your stay, you’ll want to cross it on one of the pedestrian bridges or the Alte Brücke, which offers a nice view of the entire downtown. A row of no less than eight museums line the south bank between Friedensbrücke and the Eiserner Steg. In the evening, this often overlooked area also draws locals and visitors alike to the Alt-Sachsenhausen district with its congenial apple-wine taverns. Other attractions, like the Frankfurt Zoo and the Palmengarten, lie further afield, but are only a short ride away via the handy U-Bahn.

Street Maps Arm yourself with a detailed street map, not the general overview handed out by the tourist office. Maps are sold at most bookstores and news kiosks. See “Bookstores” in “Fast Facts: Frankfurt,” below.

Getting Around

By Public Transportation

The RMV (Rhein-Main Verkehrsverbund), Mannheimer Strasse 15 ( 01805/7684636;www.rmv.de) administers the network of metro lines (U-Bahn), trams (Strassenbahn), and buses. Additional express lines (S-Bahn) thread below the city with trains nearly every 1 to 3 minutes during the day. Any of these forms of transportation can be used within their fare zone, including transfers between them. Purchase tickets at coin-operated machines marked “Fahrscheine.” Although they accept all denominations, it’s a good idea to have small bills and coins ready, as change is given in coins. Zone charts and additional information in six languages are displayed on all the automatic machines. Except for bus travel (where you have the option of paying the driver directly for your passage), be sure to buy your ticket before you board any of the public transport conveyances of Frankfurt. If you’re caught traveling without the proper ticket, you may be fined 40€.

If you want to simplify the ticket-buying process—for both public transport and museum admissions within Frankfurt—consider the purchase of a Frankfurter Tageskarte (Frankfurt Card) from either of the city’s tourist offices. These cards allow unlimited travel anywhere within the greater Frankfurt area, transport on the shuttle bus going to and from the airport, and half-price admission to any of the city’s museums. The cost is 9€ for a 1-day card and 13€ for a 2-day card. Children age 14 and under go free when traveling with an adult. Warning: The card expires on midnight of the day of purchase (or midnight the following day, for the 2-day card). Use after that can subject you to a fine. For more information, contact the tourist office.

For more information about Frankfurt’s public transportation system, call RMV, the city transport office, at 01805/7684636, or visit www.rmv.de and look for the information listed in English.

By Taxi

There’s no surcharge for calling for a taxi; dial 069/792020, 230033, or 250001. Otherwise, you can get a cab either by standing at any of the city’s hundreds of clearly designated taxi stands or by hailing one that has an illuminated dome light. Taxis charge by the trip and by the carload, without surcharge for pieces of luggage. Some are suitable for carrying up to six passengers, others for a maximum of only four. Regardless of their size, the initial fee you’ll pay for a Frankfurt taxi is 2.75€ plus 1.65€ per kilometer for rides between 6am and 10pm; from 10pm to 6am, the basic rate is 3.25€ plus 1.75€ per extra kilometer.

By Rental Car

The big rental companies each maintain offices at the airport and at central locations throughout Frankfurt. The most reliable are Avis, whose downtown branch is inside the Hauptbahnhof ( 069/27997010;www.avis.com), and Hertz, whose offices are in the Hauptbahnhof ( 069/230484;www.hertz.com) and at the airport ( 069/69593244). Also recommended is Europcar, which maintains offices at the Hauptbahnhof ( 069/2429810;www.europcar.com) and at the airport ( 069/697970).

Frankfurt

Bookstores The best English-language bookstore is British Bookshop, Börsenstrasse 17 ( 069/280492; U-Bahn/S-Bahn: Hauptwache). It’s open Monday to Friday 9:30am to 7pm and Saturday 9:30am to 6pm.

Currency Exchange There are multiple facilities for the exchange of international currencies at the Frankfurt airport.

Dentists & Doctors For an English-speaking dentist or doctor, call 069/19292 to arrange an appointment.

Drugstores For information about pharmacies open near you, call 069/19292. Otherwise, you can go to Kissel-Apotheke, Mörfelder Landstrasse 235 ( 069/68974730).

Emergencies Dial 110 for the police; 112 for a fire, first aid, and ambulance; and 069/6607271 for emergency dental service.

Internet Access Head for CyberRyder, Tongegasse 31 ( 069/91396754;www.cyberyder.de), open Monday to Friday 9:30am to 10pm, Saturday 10am to 10pm, and Sunday noon to 10pm. Internet connections cost 1.60€ for 15 minutes. There are several other Internet cafes in Frankfurt as well; the best place to search for Internet cafes is along Elisabethenstrasse, not far from the Hauptbahnhof in central Frankfurt. Those looking for a Wi-Fi connection will find that many cafes and bars offer free access, most notably Cafe Moloko+ and any Burger King.

Luggage Storage & Lockers Lockers can be rented and luggage stored at the Hauptbahnhof.

Post Office There’s a post office at the Hauptbahnhof ( 069/97511004), open Monday to Friday 6:30am to 9pm, Saturday 8am to 6pm, and Sunday and holidays 11am to 6pm.

Safety Frankfurt is a relatively safe city, but you should still stay alert at all times. Stay out of the area around the Hauptbahnhof at night, as muggings are frequent. Also be aware of bogus police officers in civilian clothes asking to check your cash. Real officers show a green ID, and never ask about money.

Toilets There are many decent public facilities in central Frankfurt, especially in the Altstadt.

Exploring Frankfurt

Frankfurt’s Towers

Many visitors to Frankfurt miss out on one of the city’s great points of interest, never having taken the time to look up. You’ll find several interesting skyscrapers lying along the Neue Mainzerstrasse, known jokingly as “Bankenklamm” (bank gorge), or “Little Wall St.” Except for the Europaturm, you’ll find the others in the grid stretching to the train station district and fairgrounds.

Europaturm At 337.5m (1107 ft.), a tad taller than the Eiffel Tower, this needle-shaped structure north of the city center has been Frankfurt’s highest structure since its construction in 1979. Used today as a communications tower, it is not open to the public.

Commerzbank Tower The tallest office building in the European Union rises to a height of 258.7m (848.5 ft.), just shy of San Francisco’s Transamerica Pyramid. Famed British architect Norman Foster, creator of London’s bullet-shaped 30 St. Mary Axe known as “The Gherkin,” designed the tower, erected by 1997, with a distinct triangular floor plan and 19th-floor park, which is unfortunately not open to the public.

Messeturm (Trade Fair Tower) Some say this 256.5m (841.3-ft.) tower finished in 1991 is the displaced twin of the Bank of America Plaza in Atlanta. Its designer, German-American Helmut Jahn, is also known for Berlin’s futuristic Sony Center at Potsdamer Platz.

Kronenhochhaus Also known as the Westend Tower, this distinctive 208m (682.2-ft.) tower gets its name from its bill-shaped crown. It also features a giant sculpture at its entry called “Inverted Collar and Tie,” by Claes Oldenburg and Coosje van Bruggen, which reminds us bankers can also have a sense of humor.

Main Tower If your neck aches from looking up all the time, let the elevator here whisk you imperceptibly to the 54th floor. At a height of 200m (656 ft.) the splendid views extend across the city and its skyscrapers to the distant Feldberg (826m, 2709 ft.) mountain visible to the northwest.

Trianon Like the Commerzbank Tower, this 186m (610.1 ft.) tower features a triangular floor plan in addition to a glass facade that makes it look like a prism on end.

Silver Tower At 166.7m (546.8 ft.), the seat of Dresdner Bank is notable for its aluminum exterior, giving it a silver sheen, and the only rounded corners on a Frankfurt skyscraper.

Deutsche Bank Towers These twin towers have taken on the nickname “Soll & Haben,” meaning Debits and Credits, which apparently sounds funny to Frankfurt’s bankers. Although built between 1979 and 1984, these 158m (518 ft.) towers were rebuilt from within as “Green Towers,” which now use half the electricity.

Skyper Based on the common, though unofficial, convention of defining a skyscraper as a building 150m (492 ft.) tall or more, this 154m (505.1-ft.) favorite of many is Frankfurt’s shortest skyscraper. Its quarter-circle floor plan blends in with the neighboring Silver Tower. A great selection of shops and restaurants fills the ground floor.

Gallileo The name of this 136.8m (448.7-ft) building had little to do with the Italian astronomer Galileo, but rather with its proximity to the former Gallus Gate (hence the extra ‘l’). Built between 1999 and 2003, its 4,000 windows provide natural heating, not to mention a transparent view of what’s going down inside. Its original plans called for it to be taller, but were reduced to these 37 stories after September 11, 2001.

Kastor und Pollox These Gemini twins may look more like an odd couple, but the squatter Castor, 91.4m (299.8 ft.), and taller Pollox 126.9m (416.2 ft.) with the Messeturm form the portrait of the fairgrounds.

Japan Center Although far from the tallest, you may find this unsung hero of the bunch is the most charming, if a skyscraper can be such. Completed in 1996 and rising to 115m (377.2 ft.), the humble Japan Center features a hanging roof and a red granite, square-paneled facade, of which the measurements are based on a Japanese tatami mat measuring roughly 180cm by 90cm.

When bombs rained down on Frankfurt in 1944, nearly all the old half-timbered buildings were leveled. In what seemed like record time, residents of Frankfurt rebuilt their city into a fine mélange of modern and traditional architecture and faithfully restored some of their most prized old buildings as well.

Although Frankfurt doesn’t have the monuments or museums to equal Munich or Berlin, its museums and exhibition halls still lure some two million visitors annually. As the cultural director of the city of Frankfurt, Dr. Hans Bernhard Nordhoff, said, “We offer you everything from Goethe to Andy Warhol, from Tyrannosaurus Rex to the female ideal of Botticelli.”

Many of the grandest museums lie along the Main on the south bank—often called “Museum Embankment,” in itself a dazzling array of contemporary architecture even before you go inside to look at the exhibits.

The easiest way to sightsee in Frankfurt is to take a cruise on the Main River aboard one of the vessels operated by Primus-Linie, Mainkai 36 ( 069/1338370;www.primus-linie.de). From March to October, boats leave from the North Bank of the Main at Mainkai during the day, offering a 50-minute excursion for 9€ or a 100-minute excursion for 11€. The trip gives you a preview of the skyline of Frankfurt.

See the map on for the location of Frankfurt’s major attractions.

The Top Attractions

Altstadt ★★

You can take in the sights of the old town in about a half a day, beginning at the historic core of the Römerberg. This pleasant and often lively square is bordered on one side by a trio of medieval patricians’ houses known as the Römer, home to the city hall since 1405. Opposite stands a row of half-timbered houses reconstructed in 1986 to original plans. They recall they way the historic and cramped inner city looked before the fire bombs of World War II reduced it to dust.

Among the more intriguing sights is the Kaiserdom (detailed below), which was consecrated in 1239 and hosted ten imperial coronations between 1562 and 1792. The Archeological Gardens in the square to the west of the Kaiserdom presents scant foundations of the Roman military outpost and Carolingian royal palace.

The nearby Paulskirche has historical significance as site of the first German National Assembly in 1848. A short walk west you’ll find the Goethe Haus, birthplace of Germany’s greatest writer in 1749.

Nearing the northern edge of the old town, the squat Hauptwache greets you. This old guardhouse from 1730 used to mark the exact center of town, until it was moved 6m (18ft.) during post-war rebuilding. A short stroll down Eschenheimerstrasse brings you to the only remaining gate of the former ramparts, the Eschenheimer Tor, dating from around 1400.

Although not technically in the Altstadt, the row of museums on the opposite bank of the Main are another main attraction, including the not-to-be-missed Städel and Liebieghaus.

Goethe Haus ★ HISTORIC HOUSE Not much of Frankfurt, the great Goethe’s house included, survived the ravages of World War II. Yet, careful (and costly) reconstruction of the German literary figurehead’s birthplace, with the installation of preserved furnishings, has recreated the 18th century splendor of an aristocratic life. The young writer entered the world at this location in 1749 and spent his formative years here until the age of 26, when he heeded a call to Weimar. With the useful hand-held placards in English, you can roam as you please through the four floors of antique rooms, giving you the true feeling of family life in old Frankfurt.

Once you pass through a Rococo garden hall bearing busts of his parents, note the massive water pump in the kitchen on the ground floor, a true luxury at the time. His parents’ initials (JCG and CEG) have been wrought into the iron banister leading to the second floor. There, the music room presents a touching portrait of the Goethe children, including the others who didn’t live long. A unique astronomical clock from 1746 stands on the next floor. On the top floor, you’ll find the poet’s puppet theater, as well as his private room, an inspiring place to work on the first version of Faust. The complementary Frankfurter-Goethe Museum on the ground floor features a collection of portraits of the writer at various ages, as well as period works like Caspar David Friedrich’s The Evening Star.

Grosser Hirschgraben 23–25. 069/138800.www.goethehaus-frankfurt.de. Admission 5€ adults, 2.50€ students, 1.50€ children 7–18, free for children 6 and under. Mon–Sat 10am–6pm; Sun and holidays 10am–5:30pm. U-Bahn or S-Bahn: Hauptwache.

German Men of Ideas: Johann Wolfgang von Goethe (1749–1832)

“That is the true season of love; when we believe that we alone can love, that no one could ever have loved as much before, and that no one will ever love in the same way again.”

Field of Study: Romanticist, poet, playwright, philosopher, scientist.

Revolutionary Insight: The towering figure in German literature, his book The Sorrows of Young Werther was a seminal inspiration for the Romantic movement. His epic Faust inspired such artists as Mozart, Liszt, Beethoven, and Mahler. Nonfiction writing heavily influenced Hegel, Nietzsche, Jung, Darwin, and others.

Controversy Quotient (0to 5): (3) Favored a highly sexualized writing style at a time of repressive social mores; some of his poems were suppressed from publication in his lifetime. Werther, one of his first works, was criticized as glorifying suicide.

Little Known Fact: His poem Der Zauberlehrling was adapted for “The Sorcerer’s Apprentice” segment in the 1940 animated Disney film Fantasia.

—Kelly Regan

Liebieghaus ★★★ MUSEUM The absorbing collection of sculpture on display in this museum is not its only draw, but also wandering through the creaking halls of this 1896 villa as if it’s yours, and stumbling upon ancient statues of virgins in the niches of the round tower, or antique cabinets with miniature sculpture spanning from the Egyptian to Baroque. Larger rooms in an adjacent building display impressive pieces like a Roman copy of the Myron’s Athena, Naukydes’ Discus Thrower, and a striking Syrian Room with a beautiful and well-preserved Mummy Portrait of a Girl from the 2nd century. The medieval collection features Riemenschneider’s Virgin Mary, as well as the earliest example of a Virgin Enthroned from the Middle Rhine.

Schaumainkai 71. 069/6500490.www.liebieghaus.de. Admission 9€ adults, 7€ seniors and students, free for children 11 and under. Tues and Fri–Sun 10am–6pm; Wed–Thurs 10am–9pm. Tram: 15 or 16 to Otto-Hahn-Platz.

Städel Museum ★★★ MUSEUM Frankfurt’s premier art gallery houses a prominent collection of European art, from 15th-century Dutch, German and Italian masterpieces to works by contemporary German and international artists. The museum is proud of its new expansion under the courtyard garden with round, ground-level openings that create a bright space for displaying artwork. Botticelli’s exquisite Idealized Portrait of a Lady and Lucas Cranach the Elder’s impish Venus hang among other works by Albrecht Dürer, his pupil Hans Baldung Grien, and Hieronymus Bosch. Jan van Eyck’s intimate Madonna (1433) also draws the viewer nearer. Don’t miss Rembrandt’s gory The Blinding of Samson, or Tischbein’s portrait of a reclining Goethe. Alongside a few Impressionists the Städel also boasts notable works from modernists like Kirchner, Schmidt-Rotluff, Picasso and Yves Klein.

Schaumainkai 63 (on the south bank of the Main). 069/6050980.www.staedelmuseum.de. Admission 12€ adults, 10€ children 12–16, 20€ family ticket, free for children 11 and under. English audio guide 4€. Tues, Fri, and Sun 10am–6pm; Wed–Thurs 10am–9pm. U-Bahn: Schweizer Platz.

Römerberg ★

The Altstadt (U-Bahn: Dom/Römer) centers on three Gothic buildings with stepped gables, known collectively as the Römer, Römerberg ( 069/21234814). These houses were originally built between 1288 and 1305 and bought by the city a century later for use as the Rathaus. The second floor of the center house is the Kaisersaal (Imperial Hall), lined with the romanticized 19th-century portraits of 52 emperors; 13 of them celebrated their coronation banquets here. You can visit this hall daily 10am to 1pm and 2 to 5pm. An hourly tour costing 2€ is obligatory. Tours are conducted in English and German and tickets can be purchased at the entrance to the Römer.

The elaborate facade of the Römer, with its ornate balcony and statues of four emperors, overlooks Römerplatz (Römerberg Square). On festive occasions in days gone by, the square was the scene of oxen roasts that featured flowing wine. Today, unfortunately, the Fountain of Justitia pours forth only water, but oxen are still roasted on special occasions.

Kaiserdom ★

The dominant feature of the Altstadt is the 15th-century, red-sandstone tower of the Kaiserdom St. Bartholomäus, in whose chapels the emperors of the Holy Roman Empire were elected and crowned for nearly 300 years. The church was constructed between the 13th and 15th centuries on the site of a Carolingian building. It is most noted for its west tower or Westturm ★★, which is greatly ornamented and crowned by a polygonal gable. It’s topped by both a lantern and a dome. Surprisingly, the cathedral was not completed until 1877, but it was based on plans created by the Dom’s original architect, Madern Gerthener. Destroyed by Allied bombs in 1944, it was rebuilt in 1953. One of its chief treasures is its choir stalls ★, which represent brilliant Upper Rhine craftsmanship, dating from around the mid–14th century. In the north chancel, look for Maria Schlafaltar (Altar of Mary Sleeping), dating from 1434. It is the only altar remaining from the church’s original interior. The Dom is open daily, at no charge, from 9am to noon and 2 to 6pm.

In the cloister is the Dom Museum ( 069/13376186;www.dommuseum-frankfurt.de) which, among other things, exhibits robes of the imperial electors. Dating back as far as the 1400s, these robes, which are still quite sumptuous, were worn at coronation ceremonies. Walk west of the cathedral to an “archaeological garden” called Archäologischer Garten, with ruins of both Roman and Carolingian fortifications. The site is open and free to the public at all times.

Other Top Museums

Deutsches Filmmuseum (German Film Museum) ★ MUSEUM You don’t have to be a cinephile to enjoy one of the best film museums in Germany. A newly renovated series of three floors walk you through the history of cinema, beginning with tools and items from the 19th century and techniques that create illusion. Exhibits include Emile Reynaud’s 1882 Praxinoscope, Edison’s Kinetoscope from 1889, and a copy of the Lumière brothers’ Cinematograph from 1895. There are also models illustrating how special effects are shot, including those in the original King Kong. In addition to changing special exhibitions, the museum also screens films from its vast collection of classics.

Schaumainkai 41, at the corner of Schweizerstrasse. 069/21238830.www.deutschesfilmmuseum.de. Admission 3.50€ adults, 1.50€ students and children; film screenings 8€ adults, 5.50€ students, 4€ children. Tues, Thurs–Fri, and Sun 10am–5pm; Wed 10am–8pm; Sat 2–8pm. U-Bahn: Schweizer Platz.

Historisches Museum (Historical Museum) ★ MUSEUM Since this dignified museum was established in a stately looking building near Town Hall in 1878, its curators have systematically added exhibits that showcase the history and culture of Frankfurt. After undergoing a complete renovation in 2011, its exhibitions help recapture the history of Frankfurt that may not be so apparent in the modern metropolis. Items include examples of gold and silver plate ware and jewelry; pottery and porcelain; and paintings, lithographs, and photographs. Most absorbing are the scaled-down models of the Altstadt at various periods of its development.

Saalgasse 19. 069/21235599.www.historisches-museum.frankfurt.de. Admission 4€ adults, 2€ children 6–18, free for children 5 and under. Tues and Thurs–Sun 10am–6pm; Wed 10am–9pm. U-Bahn: Römer.

Museum für Angewandte Kunst (Museum of Applied Arts) ★ MUSEUM Contained in the 1877 in a 19th-century Villa Metzler and a 1985 structure designed by New York–architect Richard Meier, this museum explores the interior worlds of design through the more than 30,000 objects from across Europe and Asia. With a collection begun in 1877 the first floor covers nearly 800 years of European history through statues, tapestries, and everyday objects like tables and chairs. Fascinating pieces such as massive beer mugs are highlights of the glassware collection, and some stem from 15th-century Venice. Persian carpets bedeck the second floor, along with rich faience from the 9th century and a porcelain collection.

Schaumainkai 17. 069/21234037.www.angewandtekunst-frankfurt.de. Admission 8€ adults, 4€ students and children 7–18, free for children 6 and under. Tues and Thurs–Sun 10am–5pm; Wed 10am–9pm. U-Bahn: Schweizer Platz.

Museum für Moderne Kunst (Museum of Modern Art) This museum opened in 1991 in a building created by Hans Hollein, the Viennese architect. The structure is designed like a boat, but in spite of its somewhat bizarre shape, the gallery has a bright, spacious air. (Some critics claim the dazzling architecture is more interesting than the exhibits.) Major artists since the 1950s are displayed here, including Roy Liechtenstein (see his Brush-stroke), Andy Warhol, and George Segal, with his Jazz Combo.

Domstrasse 10 (in the center of the Altstadt, near Römerberg). 069/21230447.www.mmk-frankfurt.de. Admission 8€ adults, 4€ students, free for children 5 and under, free for all last Sat of each month. Tues and Thurs–Sun 10am–6pm; Wed 10am–8pm. U-Bahn: Dom/Römer. Tram: 11 or 12.

Parks

Given such a soaring skyline, Frankfurt is remarkably green. The entire ring where the ramparts once ran is now a veritable shady oasis popular with joggers. Bethmann Park, with its Chinese gardens and rose garden, lies along this route, reachable by bus no. 30 or tram no. 12. Both banks of the Main provide a riverside retreat for lunch breaks, and are often the venues for summertime festivals.

Farther north, the city’s two major parks can be found next to one another. Once the grounds of the Rothschild family’s former castle, the Grüneburg Park is the city’s largest, and a popular sunbathing haunt in summer. The neighboring Palmengarten ★, Siesmayerstrasse 61 ( 069/21233939;www.palmengarten.frankfurt.de; U-Bahn: Westend; bus: 32), is a park and a botanical garden. Renewals and reconstructions have enhanced the gardens in recent years, and they’re now home to a perennial garden, an expanded rock garden, and a beautiful rose garden. A huge gallery that serves as an exhibition hall for flower shows and other botanical exhibitions surrounds the 1869 palm house. Don’t miss the Tropicarium and its tropical vegetation, the Entrance Conservatory and its insectivorous plants and bromeliads, and the Sub-Antarctic House with plants from southern Chile, Argentina, and New Zealand. Collections of orchids, palms, succulents, waterlilies, and many others are also on display.

Admission to the botanical garden is 5€ for adults and 2€ for children, or 9.50€ for a family ticket. It’s open daily March to October 9am to 6pm, and November to January 9am to 4pm. In the park area, there’s a small lake where people can row boats. In summer, concerts are given in the band shell; evening events include open-air dancing, jazz, and fountain illumination. There are some facilities for food. For guided tours in English call 069/21233391.

Where to Eat

Almost overnight, without much of the world being aware, the city of Frankfurt has become one of Europe’s great dining capitals. Though it’s still fighting to overcome a terrible culinary reputation, Frankfurt now ranks with Berlin and Munich as a dining mecca. Everybody knows it for its banking and business, but serious gourmets now also descend on the city, which offers one of Europe’s most varied cuisines. It still doesn’t have as eclectic a mixture of cuisine as New York (which has virtually every cuisine served on earth), but Frankfurt is getting there.

For years, visitors to the famous book fair always came home to tell visitors, “You can’t get a decent meal in Frankfurt.” That wasn’t even true way back then, and it’s gross libel today.

See the map on for restaurant locations.

In the Center

Very Expensive

Restaurant Français ★★★ FRENCH This restaurant is very stylish, and very conscious of maintaining the top-notch standards usually associated with upscale hotel restaurants in Paris. It occupies a duet of stately rooms, outfitted in tones of imperial blue and gold, on the lobby level of Frankfurt’s most prestigious hotel. Don’t think you can go slumming if you drop in for a bite here: jackets and ties are recommended for men. Menu items are cultivated, posh, and beautifully prepared and presented—the descriptions alone will make you drool. Look for brilliant combinations, such as Alsatian goose liver with smoked eel and apple sorbet, or else caviar with an iced cucumber gratiné. You can also sample such dishes as Atlantic sole with potato purée and morels, or lamb from Roussillon with eggplant and garlic chips.

In the Steigenberger Frankfurter Hof, Am Kaiserplatz. 069/21502.www.steigenberger.com. Reservations required. Main courses 30€–38€; fixed-price 8-course menu 129€. AE, DC, MC, V. Mon–Fri noon–2:30pm and 6:30–10:30pm. U-Bahn: Willy-Brandt-Platz.

Tiger Restaurant/Palastbar & Tigerbistrot ★★★ INTERNATIONAL No one expected a restaurant associated with a cabaret (Tigerpalast) to be this exceptional, but when Michelin first granted it a star in 2000, the city took notice. In the basement below the theater you’re greeted with whimsical murals that could have been painted by a latter-day Jean Cocteau. Menu items are impeccably presented. Try the sea bass with a mild pepper crust with chanterelles, risotto, and baked calves’-head ravioli, or the sole rolls with Périgord truffle with fried artichokes and potato foam.

Meals in the Palastbar & Tigerbistrot are less elaborate and cheaper, served under the vaulted brick ceiling of what was built as a warehouse about a century ago. Examples include vegetarian paella in saffron sauce or breast of chicken stuffed with tomato, sage, and Parma ham, served with an eggplant mousse and potato gnocchi. One of the best dishes is a glazed filet of turbot with a truffle mousse.

Heiligkreuzgasse 16–20. 069/9200220.www.tigerpalast.com. Reservations required. Restaurant main courses 49€–64€. Palastbar & Tigerbistrot main courses 23€–38€. AE, DC, MC, V. Restaurant Tues–Sat 7pm–midnight. Palastbar & Tigerbistrot Tues–Sun 5pm–1am. U-Bahn: Konstablerwache.

Expensive

Pacific Colors ★ CALIFORNIAN This intensely dramatic lobby-level restaurant in Frankfurt’s most avant-garde hotel boasts a New Age design in (what else?) Pacific tones of sea green and blue, with big-windowed views over the trees and walkways of the Friedberger Anlage Park. The food is what keeps gastronomes coming back—particularly those with a fondness for a Mediterranean-inspired cuisine that manages to be both airy and earthy. As conceived by culinary artist Manfred Breuer, the exact composition of the menu changes about every 3 months, but the best examples include a seafood medley—a trio of red snapper, whitefish, and prawns served with spicy chili-laced noodles and a coriander syrup. The steak, a filet mignon with an olive-and-potato tapenade, is also sumptuous.

In the lobby of the Hilton Hotel, Hochstrasse 4. 069/133802450.www.hilton.com. Reservations recommended. Main courses 24€–39€. AE, DC, MC, V. Daily 6:30–11pm. U-Bahn: Eschenheimer Tor.

San San Restaurant ★★ CHINESE Aficionados of Chinese food flock to this hotel restaurant, which arguably hires the finest chefs from the Far East in all of Frankfurt. These artists in the kitchen concoct a modern interpretation of Chinese culinary delights from carefully chosen products. You can select a seat in the modern Bamboo Lounge, in the authentically decorated Shanghai Suite, or even the Separee bathed in natural light. Savor such specialties as spicy chicken served in a sizzling pot or else wok-stir-fried prawns, squid, and scallops. A chicken is served stuffed with bell peppers and prawns and accompanied by fine Chinese noodles in a black-bean sauce.

In the Westin Grand Frankfurt, Konrad-Adenauer-Strasse 7. 069/29810. Reservations required. Main courses 16€–26€. AE, DC, MC, V. Mon–Sat noon–2:30pm and 5–11:30pm. U-Bahn: Konstablerwache.

Moderate

Kameha Suite ★★ INTERNATIONAL Frankfurt fashionistas converge on this sophisticated enclave in a wonderfully preserved neoclassical villa with a sweeping marble staircase. “We’re whatever you want us to be,” the manager told us. Perhaps he was referring to the multipurpose role of his establishment—chic lounge, bar, cafe, restaurant, and, yes, even a nightclub. In a historic building across from the opera house, the dining room is on the second floor.

Exceptional products are featured with a finely honored technique. The cooking has flair and imagination, including such dishes as roast lamb with Périgord truffles. A lot of grill specialties are featured, and the pastas are homemade, including ravioli of wild garlic filled with sautéed mushrooms.

Taunusanlage 20. 069/4800370.www.kamehasuite.de. Reservations required for dining. Main courses 18€–35€. AE, DC, MC, V. Mon–Fri 11:30am–3pm and 6–11pm; Sat 6–11pm; Sun 10am–3pm. S-Bahn: Tanusanlage.

Main Tower Restaurant & Bar ★ EUROPEAN For the highest fine dining experience in town, let the Main Tower elevator whisk you up to the 53rd floor for unbeatable fare and an unforgettable view. The long line of diners who ascend every day for lunch, dinner, and after-work cocktails makes up one of the most diverse clientele in town, including grandmothers showing the view to their offspring, media hipsters affiliated with the building’s TV stations, and newcomers trying to figure out the geography of Frankfurt.

The chefs don’t try to get by on the view alone, but instead boast a solid and reliable cuisine prepared with fresh ingredients. Appetizers range from a smoked salmon with a pesto sauce to goose liver with black currants, followed by such main courses as a succulent rib of beef with anchovy jus or eggplant lasagna flavored with young leeks.

Neue Mainzer Strasse 52–58. 069/36504777.www.maintower-restaurant.de. Reservations required. Main courses 18€–30€; fixed-price menus 59€–99€. AE, MC, V. Tues–Fri noon–3pm and 6pm–1am; Sat–Sun 1–5pm and 6pm–1am. U-Bahn: Willy-Brandt-Platz.

Inexpensive

Bull + Bear INTERNATIONAL/MEDITERRANEAN Its name, referring to the types of financial markets, may seem like a nerdy stock broker creation, but this hip bistro next to the stock exchange is far from it. The decor here may remind you of a glass-sided cube, thanks to soaring ceilings and a glittery, metallic look that evokes the waiting room of an international airport. Well-prepared menu items include pork filet with an asparagus ragout, tortellini stuffed with ricotta and spinach, saddle of lamb with Provençal vegetables, and a wide selection of grilled Angus steaks.

Bull + Bear also serves as a singles bar and a late-night dance spot. In the basement Börsenkeller, there’s a dance floor that’s usually mobbed, especially on Friday and Saturday, with a young, hip, after-work crowd. A live DJ plays house, techno, and trance music; the cover charge is 10€. Drinks start at 5€ each during happy hour, which is every day from 4 to 7pm.

Börsenplatz/Schillerstrasse 11. 069/13388733.www.bullandbear.de. Reservations recommended for parties of 6 or more. Main courses 7€–22€; lunch salads, sandwiches, and platters 7€–16€. AE, DC, MC, V. Mon–Thurs 8am–1am; Fri–Sun 8am–3am. U-Bahn or S-Bahn: Hauptwache.

Chicago Meatpackers AMERICAN For a piece of Americana not involving meal deals and triple soy lattes, your best bet is this eatery seemingly plucked from a 1940s Chicago stockyard. Its ornate 19th-century facade overlooking the backside of the Neues Opernhaus (New Opera House) shields the wood-planked interior with pizzeria tablecloths and tons of good-ol’ American clutter, including a model train suspended on its track in the air. Despite the emphasis on Chicago and its meatpacking expertise, most of the beef served here is Argentinean. The steaks are tender, the ribs are zesty, the fried chicken is juicy, and everything is dished up in generous portions. Kids will love the burgers, which are the juiciest in town. Cocktails include such fanciful names as the “Beverly Hills.”

Untermainanlage 8. 069/231659.www.chicago-meatpackers.de. Main courses 10€–30€. AE, DC, MC, V. Mon–Thurs and Sun 11:30am–midnight; Fri–Sat 11:30am–1 or 2am. U-Bahn: Willy-Brandt-Platz.

Im Herzen Afrikas ERITREAN A local favorite, this African oasis in the cityscape will make you forget you’re in Frankfurt. Relax on low seats and at straw tables in the sand, or slide in at a candlelit table with patrons you’ll know by the end of the night. You won’t find silverware here, but instead a bread wrap called injera. Some of the Eritrean specialties include Tzhada kulwa (lamb meat with bell peppers) accompanied by spinach, lentils and potatoes, and Dorho (spicy chicken in a tomato sauce.) Vegetarian concoctions with spinach, potatoes, carrots, onions, and chick peas are also available.

Gutleutstrasse 13. 069/24246080.www.im-herzen-afrikas.de. Main courses 4€–10€. No credit cards. Daily 6pm–1am. U-Bahn: Willy-Brandt-Platz.

Solberfäss’je ★ HESSIAN Cramped, old-fashioned, and gregarious, this restaurant is firmly committed to maintaining its role as the kind of beer bar and working-class restaurant that thrived in this neighborhood a century ago, when its clientele included mostly the horse-cart drivers delivering supplies to homes and stores along the nearby Zeil. Food items focus on Schnitzel, Sauerbraten, Rouladens of beef, and the kinds of roasted knuckles and joints that dyed-in-the-wool beer lovers savor, and which have been associated with Bierkellers since anyone can remember. These include roasted shanks of lamb, veal, pork, beef, and turkey, each of which emerges savory and crackling from the ovens. There are also three versions of Eisbein (pork knuckle), roasted, smoked, or steamed. Regulars rave about the Strudel. The hardworking and English-proficient Sänger family keeps the 112-year-old tradition alive. Its name, in Hessian dialect, refers to a medieval technique of preserving meat in barrels filled with salt.

Grosse Friedberger Strasse 8. 069/296767.www.solberfaessje.com. Reservations recommended. Main courses 10€–18€. AE, DC, MC, V. Mon–Sat 10am–midnight. U-Bahn: Konstabler Hauptwache.

In Westend

Very Expensive

Gargantua ★★★ CONTINENTAL One of Westend’s genuinely stylish restaurants, Gargantua evokes an upscale and somewhat snobbish 1920s-era bistro in Paris. With a new location behind the Alte Oper, its decor of olive hues whets the palate before you feast your eyes on the menu. The guiding force behind the cuisine is local food writer and columnist Klaus Trebes who, with his wife, Monika, usually directs the restaurant in a discreet, well-versed way that includes a sophisticated knowledge of German, Italian, and Austrian wines. Patrons expect—and receive—a near-perfect dining experience. Flavors, textures, and colors combine to delight in such dishes as a creamy soup with black sausage and Périgord truffles, or a zesty risotto with radicchio, squid, and spicy chorizo sausage. The chef is at his best when he prepares guinea fowl braised with cinnamon or rack of veal with a morel cream sauce. Rib-eye steak comes with a vegetable flan and rosemary potatoes, or else you can sample filet of sea bass with Amalfi lemons.

An der Welle 3. 069/720718.www.gargantua.de. Reservations required. Main courses 19€–28€; fixed-price dinners 44€–68€. AE, DC, MC, V. Mon–Fri noon–2:30pm and 6pm–1am. U-Bahn: Alte Oper.

Expensive

Surf ’n Turf Steakhouse ★ AMERICAN/SEAFOOD Although the name conjures up a West Coast sports bar, this fine restaurant is actually a shrine to steak. The dark hues of the wooden interior set the tone for the meat delicacies to come. Expect the usual suspects like steak tartare, Porterhouse, and rib-eye, from cattle fed exclusively corn and grain. The beef is fantastic, especially the “Butter Knife,” a triple-star filet mignon, hailed as the best filet in the world. If you don’t want steak, the double-cut lamb chops or the rack of lamb with rosemary and sage is delectable. For fish-lovers, there’s a catch of the day.

Grüneburgweg 95 (near the Palmengarten). 069/722122.www.the-steakhouse.de. Reservations required. Main courses 19€–50€. MC, V. Mon–Fri noon–3pm; Mon–Sat 6pm–midnight. Closed for July. U-Bahn: Grüneburgweg.

Villa Merton ★★★ CONTINENTAL/INTERNATIONAL This 1925 neoclassical villa located in the leafy diplomat’s district feels more like the private home of a dignitary than a restaurant. Its demure dining rooms overlook an inviting terrace that seems to be an extension of the nearby park. Chef de cuisine Matthias Schmidt concocts imaginative creations that make the Merton one of the most exquisite dining experiences in town. A typical meal might start out with trout stained in its own caviar with asparagus and cress. Main courses include locally raised Angus loin cooked sous-vide and bathed in walnut gravy. In autumn gourmets flock here for venison ragout with fresh chanterelles.

At the Union International Club, Am Leonhardsbrunn 12. 069/703033.www.koflerkompanie.com. Main courses 21€–39€. AE, DC, MC, V. Mon–Fri noon–2pm and 6–10pm. U-Bahn: Leipziger Strasse or Bockenheimer Warte.

Inexpensive

Café Laumer ★ GERMAN/AUSTRIAN There are many cafes scattered throughout Frankfurt, but this one is proud of literary antecedents that are a bit deeper, broader, and more authentic than those that are cited by some of its competitors. No one will mind if you adopt this place as a cafe, but if you want full-fledged meals, be aware that they are available only until 6pm. Menu items include crisp Schnitzel, freshly made salads, grilled steaks with peppercorn sauce, roulades of beef or pork stuffed with herbs and bread crumbs, and, when it’s available, fresh game and fish dishes. Framed honorariums on the walls of this place refer to its most historically famous client, musicologist and philosopher Theodor Adorno (1903–69), who used to come here every day in the 1930s for coffee and conversation before moving on to professorships at Oxford and Princeton.

Bockenheimer Landstrasse 67. 069/727912.www.cafe-laumer.de. Reservations recommended for meals. Main courses 7.50€–12€. MC, V. Mon–Fri 8am–7pm; Sat 8:30am–7pm; Sun 9:30am–7pm. U-Bahn: Westend.

Across the Main

Moderate

Maingau Stuben ★ HESSIAN/GERMAN One of the best loved of the Sachsenhausen restaurants, this South Bank eatery does a thriving business, although food critics sometimes complain of a variance in the quality of the cuisine. The menu isn’t as old-fashioned as you might think by the traditional setting of subdued lighting and linen tablecloths. The chef does duck extremely well, and is also noted for his rack of venison served in a walnut crust. He also on occasion prepares a saddle of rabbit wrapped around fresh asparagus.

Schifferstrasse 38–40. 069/610752.www.maingau.de. Main courses 18€–28€. AE, DC, MC, V. Tues–Sun noon–3pm; Tues–Sat 6–10pm. U-Bahn: Schweizer Platz.

Inexpensive

Adolf Wagner HESSIAN This familial and sometimes rowdy Apfelwein tavern may not be ideal for an intimate dinner for two, but it provides an authentic, entertaining experience found only in Frankfurt. Local specialties fill the menu, like pork knuckle with home fried potatoes, grilled pork belly with fried onions, the ubiquitous Grüne Sosse (green sauce) with at least seven herbs, and schnitzels galore. The vegetable Rösti with herb sour cream acts as a token meal in what is really a shrine for meat lovers. A ribbed glass of refreshing apple wine adds just the right accent to the lively dining experience.

Schweizer Strasse 71. 069/612565.www.apfelwein-wagner.com. Main courses 7€–15€. AE, DC, MC, V. Daily 11am–midnight. U-Bahn: Schweizer Platz.

In the East End

Very Expensive

Silk ★★ FUSION/AUSTRO-GERMAN This “bed restaurant” embodies chic decadence. Patrons, mostly in their 20s and 30s, lounge barefooted on white leather beds savoring some of the best food in Frankfurt. All guests dine at the same time, with the reception beginning at 7:30pm and dinner service following at 8pm and lasting for most of the evening. With free entry into the adjoining exclusive Cocoon Club, your night might as well end there.

Critically acclaimed chef Mario Lohninger dishes out the 11-course menu to a backdrop of ambient and innovative music. Mediterranean diversity meets Asian minimalism, as you sample such delights as a succulent lobster spiked with mango, Serrano ham, and lemon grass. Perhaps you’ll have a rack of lamb with a Sauerkraut risotto, or else corn ravioli with pumpkinseed oil, or smoked salmon with marinated fresh fennel. The Micro Restaurant on the premises serves comparable fare a la carte, with main courses ranging from 18€ to 39€.

Carl-Benz-Strasse 21. 069/900200.www.hoeren-sehen-schmecken.net. Reservations required. 11-course fixed-price menu 119€. AE, MC, V. Tues–Sat 7:30pm–2am. Tram: 11 or 12.

Shopping

When it comes to shopping, Frankfurt has everything that you’d expect from an international financial center, with international brands and specialty shops that have convenient opening hours. Most stores are open Monday to Saturday 9 or 10am to 6 or 6:30pm.

In Frankfurt, the shopping scene is divided into different regions. On “the Golden Mile,” the Zeil, a pedestrian zone between the Hauptwache and Konstablerwache, you’ll find department stores, clothing shops, shoe stores, and furniture outlets. Once a 14th-century cattle market, it is now home to the MyZeil mall, which from an architectural standpoint is more than just a mall. Designed by Italian architect Massimiliano Fuksas and opened in 2009, its spider-web glass facade caves inward, creating an inner funnel of glass and metal that creates a sense of movement within the space. Ride the six-story escalator, the longest shopping mall escalator in Europe, to the top to appreciate the impressive work of modern architecture.

Nearby is the Kleinmarkthalle, a pleasant and often-missed covered market with international and regional grocery products. It’s open Monday to Friday 8am to 6pm, and Saturday 10am to 4pm.

The Hauptwache, in the center of Frankfurt, has two shopping areas, one above and one below ground. Groceries, book dealers, flowers, clothing, tobacco, photo supplies, recordings, and sporting equipment abound. In the Hauptwache-Passage are restaurants, travel agencies, and banks.

Schillerstrasse, another pedestrian zone, lies between Hauptwache and Eschenheimer Turm, near the stock exchange. Walking from Schillerstrasse northeast toward Eschenheimer Tor, you’ll pass many elegant boutiques and specialty shops. West of the Hauptwache is the Alte Oper. You can reach it by taking either the Goethestrasse, with exclusive stores evocative of Paris or Milan, or the parallel Grosse Bockenheimerstrasse, traditionally nicknamed Fressgasse or “Pig-Out Alley.” Most wine dealers, delis, and butcher shops here look back on a long and venerable past. Opernplatz has a variety of restaurants and cafes.

West of the Hauptwache is Rossmarkt, leading to Kaiserstrasse. It passes the BFG skyscraper, which has three floors of exclusive retail stores, boutiques, and restaurants, and directly connects the downtown area to the Hauptbahnhof. Kaiserstrasse is also known for its large selection of stores selling clothing, audio and photography equipment, and stainless-steel ware. The heart of the fur trade in Frankfurt is Düsseldorfer Strasse, opposite the Hauptbahnhof. Most book dealers are located around the Hauptwache and Goetheplatz. Antiques, old books, etchings, and paintings on Braubachstrasse can be found near the Römer, at the Dom, and on Fahrgasse.

Art and antiques are the domain of Alt-Sachsenhausen, an appealing and original neighborhood. The Frankfurt Flea Market takes place here every Saturday 8am to 2pm along the Main River on the Sachsenhausen side. To get here, walk from the Römer toward the river and cross the Eisener Steg bridge.

Art Galleries

Galerie Adler This is the most avant-garde gallery in Frankfurt, presenting all media from paintings to photographs and video to plastic. It features a talented array of fresh faces, both young Frankfurters and international artists. Various exhibitions are staged throughout the year. Hanauer Landstrasse 134. 069/43053962. www.galerieadler.com. U-Bahn: Zoo.

Department Stores

Karstadt A Frankfurt shopping tradition along the Golden Mile, this vast store offers clothes and shoes for every mood, while catering to a wide range of budgets. Families with small children may want to check out the selection of toys, and foodies will delight in the food hall in the basement, with tidbits from all over the globe. On the ground floor is a selection of jewelry and cosmetics, among other items. Zeil 90. 069/929050.www.karstadt.de. U-Bahn: Konstablerwache.

Kaufhof This department store accurately touts its one-stop shopping. On its seven floors it’s got just about everything—porcelain, accessories, clothes, jewelry, glassware, and a food hall. Tired of shopping? Retreat to the top-floor restaurant, which has one of Frankfurt’s most panoramic views. Zeil 116–126. 069/21910.www.kaufhof.de. U-Bahn: Hauptwache.

Fashion

For basics, check out the vast array of clothing at the previously recommended department stores.

Kleidoskop Even though this shop specializes in secondhand clothing, much of it appears to be new. For those who like designer labels, there is an array of Gucci, Armani, Prada, and other big names—all up for grabs at cut-rate prices. Oeder Weg 56. 069/550837.www.kleidoskop.de. U-Bahn: Eschenheimer Tor.

Peek & Cloppenburg In business since 1900, this large emporium, a branch of the well-known German name, attracts the frugal shopper but also sells designer labels. Its clothing for both women and men ranges far and wide, ideal for sports, office wear, or nightclubbing. Zeil 71–75. 069/298950. www.peek-cloppenburg.de. U-Bahn or S-Bahn: Konstablerwache.

Jewelry

House of Silver This little shop set in the midst of the apple-wine taverns of Sachsenhausen is a discovery. Savvy Frankfurter collectors go here to indulge their taste in silver jewelry. The store is small, but the range is wide, going from classic motifs to more modern lines. Schweizer Strasse 73. 069/627681.www.house-of-silver.com. U-Bahn: Schweizer Platz.

Porcelain

Höchster Porzellan Manufacture GmbH ★★ This gilt and blue-painted showroom contains one of Germany’s largest inventories of what’s been created by Höchst Porcelain for more than 150 years. The quality of the “white gold” is almost flawless, and the prestige level of virtually anything associated with this outfit is about as good as it gets in Frankfurt today. (Even Goethe’s mother collected the stuff, praising its virtues to her impressionable and articulate young son.) If the object of your desire lies on the sale table, there may be a markdown to 60% off retail prices. You can request particular color schemes for whatever object you select, as long as it’s within the historical/aesthetic framework of the era when the original item was produced. Look in particular for illustrated platters inspired by the Struwwelpeter legends, beloved by children in Mittel Europa for generations. Palleskestrasse 32. 069/3009020.www.hoechster-porzellan.de. S-Bahn: Höchst.

Entertainment & Nightlife

Nightlife

For details of what’s happening in Frankfurt, you can pick up copies of Journal Frankfurt at newsstands throughout the city. Also listing events are Frizz and Strandgut, both free and available at the tourist office.

To purchase tickets for many major cultural events, go to the tourist office at the Hauptbahnhof. Or you can head for a bona fide ticket agent, one of the biggest in Frankfurt, for tickets to concerts, plays, and sporting events throughout town. Best Tickets lies in the ZeilGalerie (Shop no. 47), Zeil 112–114 ( 069/91397621).

Of course, one of the greatest ways to spend an evening in Frankfurt is at one of the Apfelwein (apple-wine) taverns across the south bank of the Main in the district of Sachsenhausen.

The Performing Arts

Theater der Stadt Frankfurt, Untermainanlage 11 ( 069/1340400; U-Bahn: Willy-Brandt-Platz), has three stages. One belongs to the Frankfurt Municipal Opera, whose productions have received worldwide recognition in recent years. Two stages are devoted to drama. If your German is adequate, you may want to see a performance of Städtische Bühnen/Schauspiel ( 069/21249494;www.schauspielfrankfurt.de), a forum for classic German plays as well as modern drama. A variety theater, Kunstlerhaus Mouson Turm, Waldschmidtstrasse 4 ( 069/40589520;www.mousonturm.de; U-Bahn/S-Bahn: Merianplatz), hosts plays, classical music concerts, and dance programs almost every night of the week. Tickets run 12€ to 22€.

Count yourself lucky if you’re in Frankfurt when the Forsythe Company presents its classical ballets. Many of these are held at the Bockenheimer Depot, and ballet programs can be searched at www.theforsythecompany.com. The company is a smaller version of the now-defunct Frankfurt Ballet, with fewer than 20 dancers. When not at its home base, the troupe tours Europe and the United States.

Alte Oper Although not a stage for opera per se, the old opera house is still the pride of Frankfurt. Reopened in 1981 after wartime destruction, the current hall recalls the original, which was opened in 1880 under Kaiser Wilhelm I and hailed as one of the most beautiful theaters in Europe. Today the Alte Oper is the site of frequent symphonic and choral concerts, and worth the ticket price. The box office is open Monday to Friday 10am to 6:30pm, and Saturday 10am to 2pm. Opernplatz. 069/13400.www.alteoper.de. Tickets 21€–80€. U-Bahn: Alte Oper.

English Theatre The spirit of the English-language theater founded by the actress Judith Rosenbauer has been kept alive at the base of the Gallileo Tower. It began in a Sachsenhausen backyard and became the largest English-language production company on the European continent. Its program features musicals, comedies, dramas, and thrillers. During the season (Sept–July), performances are Tuesday to Saturday at 7:30pm and Sunday at 6pm. The box office is open Monday from noon to 6pm, Tuesday to Friday from 11am to 6:30pm, Saturday from 3 to 6:30pm, and Sunday from 3 to 5pm. Gallusanlage 7. 069/24231620.www.english-theatre.org. Plays 22€–34€; musicals 29€–47€. S-Bahn: Willy-Brandt-Platz.

Oper Frankfurt This is Frankfurt’s premier showcase for world-class opera and ballet. Acclaimed for its dramatic artistry, the Frankfurt Opera is currently under the direction of conductor Sebastian Weigle. The box office is open Monday to Friday 10am to 6pm, and Saturday 10am to 2pm. Willy-Brandt-Platz (btw. the Hauptbahnhof and the Innenstadt). 069/1340400.www.oper-frankfurt.de. Opera and ballet 9€–130€. U-Bahn: Willy-Brandt-Platz.

The Club & Music Scene

Cabaret

Tigerpalast The most famous and sought-after cabaret in Frankfurt, this was named after cofounder Johnny Klinke’s Chinese zodiac birth year (the Tiger). Klinke founded the club with Margarita Dillinger in the late 1980s. Shows are presented in a not very large blue-and-black theater, where guests sit at tiny tables to see about eight different artists per show. The acts include a variety of international acrobats, puppeteers, jugglers and crooners. A tiger, a panther, and a sea lion all make carefully choreographed appearances as well, each presented with an emphasis on razzmatazz, nostalgia, and schmaltz. Each show lasts 2 hours with breaks for drinks and snacks, and each is presented as child-approved, family style entertainment without nudity. Two restaurants are associated with this cabaret. Shows are Tuesday through Thursday 7 and 10pm, Friday to Saturday 7:30 and 10:30pm, and Sunday 4:30 and 8pm. Heiligkreuzgasse 16–20. 069/9200220.www.tigerpalast.de. Tickets 53€–60€; half-price for children 11 and under. Drinks from 10€. U-Bahn: Konstabler Wache.

Dance Clubs

In a 16-square-block area in front of the Hauptbahnhof, you’ll find a rowdy kind of entertainment, what the Germans call erotische Spiele. Doormen will practically pull you inside to view porno movies, sex shows, sex shops, and dance clubs teeming with prostitutes. Warning: This area can be dangerous—don’t come here alone. For less lurid activities in a safer environment, head to the live-music clubs, dance clubs, bars, and cafes across the Main River in the Sachsenhausen district. Most gay bars and clubs are located in a small area between Bleichstrasse and Zeil.

Cocoon Club Thanks to the worldwide success of DJ Sven Väth, this has become the premier nightspot in Frankfurt, attracting visitors from all over Europe to experience a night when he spins here. Considered among some to be the best in Germany, if not Europe, the techno club complex also features the top-notch restaurant Silk. Open Fridays and Saturdays 10pm to 7am. Carl-Benz-Strasse 21. 069/900200.www.cocoonclub.net. Tram: 11 or 12.

King Kamehameha Club The launch of this club on a street once filled with abandoned warehouses helped make the industrial East End of Frankfurt a chic after-dark address. Called “King Ka” by its loyal devotees, the club remains the hottest weekend address in this part of Frankfurt. On Thursday nights a live band is usually presented, with DJs taking over on Friday and Saturday nights. The club is open only from Thursday to Saturday 10pm to 4am. ( for a review of Kameha Suite.) Hanauer Landstrasse 192. 069/48009610. www.king-kamehameha.de. Tram: 11.

Living xxl On Friday and Saturday night it seems that half of Frankfurt—both gay and straight—is here dancing the night away. The club is one of the largest bars and restaurants in Germany, with a widely mixed clientele. The most action and dancing are on Friday and Saturday nights. The location is in the Eurotower, the headquarters of the European Central Bank, and the terraced interior is architecturally dramatic. The compound opens Monday to Friday at 11:30am, but closing times can vary from 11pm to 4am. On Saturday it is open 7pm to 5am. Kaiserstrasse 29. 069/2429370. www.livingxxl.de. U-Bahn: Seckbacher Landstrasse.

The Odeon Club ★ To find this club, look for the pulsating white villa on a hill, which by day is the 1808 Bethmann Pavilion. This popular club doesn’t sell out or try to be exclusive, attracting a varied crowd depending on the night of the week. On Thursdays students dance off the free buffet and reduced-price drinks, while a 30s-to-40s crowd comes on Friday. The younger crowd tends to return on Saturday for the R&B music as well as hip-hop and soul. The ground floor offers two bars and a spacious dance floor, with more tranquil seating in the winter garden. For those who want to sit, talk, and cuddle, there is the upper-floor bar with its many cushions. The Odeon is open only on Monday 5pm to 4am, Thursday 9pm to 4am, and Friday and Saturday 10pm until dawn. Seilerstrasse 34. 069/285055.www.theodeon.de. Cover 5€–8€. U-Bahn: Konstablerwache.

Live Music

Der Jazzkeller This basement club, established in 1952, is one of the most famous and atmospheric jazz clubs in Germany. Its reputation is as solid as the 200-year-old red-brick walls that surround it. The place has played host to such jazz luminaries as Louis Armstrong, Dizzy Gillespie, and Gerry Mulligan. Thursday and Saturday, live music usually begins at 10pm. On nights when there is no live music, the club becomes a late-night pub. It’s open Wednesday to Sunday 9:30pm to 3am. Kleine Bockenheimerstrasse 18A (near Goethestrasse). 069/288537.www.jazzkeller.com. Concerts 5€–20€. U-Bahn or S-Bahn: Alte Oper.

Sinkkasten This live-music institution began 40 years ago hosting varied names like Charles Mingus, Canned Heat, and Peter Green. Nowadays an array of styles including jazz may be heard here, except on Thursday, Saturday, and late Friday, when the club turns disco. Come early to beat the crowd, or risk being turned away. It’s open Sunday to Thursday 9pm to 2am, Friday and Saturday 9pm to 3am. Brönnerstrasse 5–9. 069/280385.www.sinkkasten-frankfurt.de. Dance club 5€–8€; concerts 6€–27€. U-Bahn or S-Bahn: Konstablerwache.

Bars & Cafes

Balalaika For one of the most charming evenings Frankfurt can offer, head to Sachsenhausen—not for an Apfelwein tavern, but to visit this shoebox-size club. It is the domain of Anita Honis, an American from Harlem, who imbues the club with her personal charm and her music. Several times a night she’ll bring out her guitar and entertain guests while perched on a wooden bar stool. Balalaika is open Sunday to Thursday 8pm to 2:30 or 3am, and Friday and Saturday 8pm to 4am. Schifferstrasse 3. 069/612226.www.balalaika-frankfurt.de. Bus: 30 or 36.

Cafe Moloko+ This airy cafe has a great location near the river with an inviting terrace that fills up on sunny days. The interior is equally comfortable with leather bucket seats and original furnishings that look like chic leftovers from an attic sale. Its relaxed denizens sell the place best, radiating a friendly vibe that provides a personal touch to the otherwise rushed Frankfurt cityscape. Open daily 10am to 1am, Friday and Saturday until 2am. Kurt-Schumacher-Strasse 1 069/13886932.www.moloko-am-meer.de. Bus: 36.

Irish Pub Bornheim Given the villagelike atmosphere of the laid-back Bornheim district, you may think you’re in Ireland when you see this pub near a few half-timbered houses. Not far from the happening nightlife in Berger Strasse, it’s worth popping in here to meet the locals—or the expats who have become so. It’s a modest-size pub that lacks the chain-feel at the other Irish pubs in town, with a predictable selection of pints, and even apple wine. Berger Strasse 255. 069/800603. www.irishpubbornheim.de. U-Bahn: Bornheim Mitte.

Jimmy’s Bar To impress that really big client, take him or her to Frankfurt’s most elegant bar in its most elegant hotel, Hessischer Hof. Against a backdrop of gentle piano music, you can drink your Tom Collins in style with the city’s smoothest service. The bartenders seem able to fill all requests, no matter how unusual. Jimmy’s is open daily 8pm to 4am. Hessischer Hof, Friedrich-Ebert-Anlage 40. 069/75400.www.hessischer-hof.de. S-Bahn: Platz der Republik. Bus: 32 or 33.

Luna This hip bar is always packed with Frankfurt’s young professionals drinking cocktails and listening to the cool jazz playing in the background. The bartenders perform gymnastics (reminiscent of the Tom Cruise film Cocktail) in making such drinks as grasshoppers, juleps, champagne fizzes, and tropical coladas. Drink prices start at 6€. The place is packed on weekends. Hours are Monday to Thursday 7pm to 2am, Friday and Saturday 7pm to 3am. Stiftstrasse 6. 069/294774.www.luna-bar.de. U-Bahn: Hauptwache.

Gay & Lesbian Frankfurt

Harvey’s This gay and lesbian restaurant and bar, which also attracts a lot of liberal-minded straight couples, is named for the gay city supervisor, Harvey Milk, of San Francisco. He was gunned down, as depicted in the Sean Penn film Milk. In spite of the grim namesake, the atmosphere is fun loving, in a pre–World War II setting (it escaped the bombing raids). In summer, tables overflow into an outdoor garden filled with revelers and beer drinkers. Main courses cost 9€ to 19€. It’s open Monday to Friday 10am to 1am, Saturday 10am to 2am, and Sunday 10am to midnight. Bornheimer Landstrasse 64, Nordend. 069/48004878. www.harveys-ffm.de. Tram: 12.

Lucky’s Manhattan Best described as a gay cafe and bar wrapped into one, Lucky’s also has aspects of a conservative tearoom. Most folks come here to drink beer or apple wine, or perhaps to nibble on the limited array of toasts and crepes. It’s a worthwhile place to begin an evening on the town. Lucky’s operates Sunday through Thursday 3pm to 1am, and Friday and Saturday 3pm to 2am. Schäfergasse 27. 069/284919.www.luckys-manhattan.com. U-Bahn or S-Bahn: Konstablerwache.

Pulse This is a cafe with an active bar trade; a clientele that’s mostly fashionable, male, and gay; and a throbbing Valentine-hued decor of red, black, and gray. Come here for breakfasts after a late night out, salads, sandwiches, and late-night platters that include miniquiches. Menu items cost from 4€ to 18€; mixed drinks are from 8€ to 11€, unless they’re alcohol free (such as the Safe Sex on the Beach), when they go for 8€. Some nights, house and garage music begins after 10pm, transforming the place into something that you may define as a dance club with food service. Pulse is open Monday to Saturday 11am to 1am (Sat till 3 or 4am), and Sunday 10am to 1am. Bleichstrasse 38A. 069/13886802.www.pulse-frankfurt.de. U-Bahn: Konstablerwache.

Sports & Outdoor Pursuits

Jogging

A pretty jogging route is along the quays of the River Main, using both sides of the river and the bridges to create a loop. Another choice is the above-mentioned Grüneburg Park, with walkways that are suitable for jogging.

Tennis

Few of the tennis courts in Frankfurt allow nonmembers to play. A noteworthy exception is the Tennisplatz Eissporthalle, Am Bornheimer hang, 60486 Frankfurt ( 069/21239308 or 069/21230810; www.eissporthalle-ffm.de; U-Bahn/S-Bahn: Eissporthalle), which has a half-dozen courts. They’re open May to October daily 8am to sundown. The cost is 10€ per hour.

Where to Stay

Finding a room, not to mention one at an affordable price, depends largely on the busy trade fair schedule. On average, there is one a month; the tourist office maintains a schedule online at www.frankfurt-tourismus.de. It’s best to reserve well in advance, but if you need to make a last-minute booking, contact the friendly staff at the tourist office.

Most of Frankfurt’s accommodations lie around the fairgrounds and the train station (the latter is designed for convenient arrival and a quick escape). The station can be considered central, although it may require a walk through the less-than-picturesque Bahnhofviertel in front of the main station, and bordered by Mainzer Landstrasse, Taunusanlage, Gallusanlage, and Münchnerstrasse. Unfortunately, this is the only side of Frankfurt that many see, leaving them with a dim view of the city. Alternatively, consider hotels in Westend, Ostend, or across the Main to get a perspective of the city that many casual visitors miss.

In the Old Town (Altstadt)

Very Expensive

Steigenberger Frankfurter Hof ★★★ This is the most famous, most prestigious, and most legendary hotel in Frankfurt, with both service and a historic location that are unmatched anywhere else in town. The only hotel in Frankfurt that really measures up is a personal favorite, the Hessischer Hof (see below), but the restaurant (Restaurant Français) is better here. The highly visible five-story flagship of one of Germany’s most elegant hotel chains, it was established in 1872 behind a landmark stone facade that’s very central, very prominent, and very grand. Its rooms are in high demand by visiting dignitaries, especially during the book fair, when guests as prominent as the former king of Greece have been denied a room. Public areas are discreet and plush; bedrooms are high ceilinged, sun flooded, and gracefully furnished. Some of the more traditional rooms have valuable antiques, but those in the Bethmann Wing have been newly renovated with sleek and modern touches.

Am Kaiserplatz, 60311 Frankfurt. www.frankfurter-hof.steigenberger.de. 800/223-5652 in the U.S. and Canada, or 069/21502. Fax 069/215900. 321 units. 199€–479€ double; 590€–1,670€ suite. AE, DC, MC, V. Parking 20€. U-Bahn: Willy-Brandt-Platz. Amenities: 4 restaurants; bar; babysitting; concierge; room service; spa. In room: A/C, TV, fax, hair dryer, minibar, Wi-Fi (12€ per hour).

Expensive

Fleming’s Deluxe Hotel ★★★ Next to Frankfurt’s only remaining tower gate from the 15th century, this classy hotel peers out over the rooftops of Frankfurt to the Taunus Hills in the distance. Its postwar exterior may look bleak at first, but then you realize it looks like a treasure chest being opened. Indeed, the interior provides a trove of amenities and appointments using top-quality materials. It’s worth every one of its five stars, and the warm earth tones like amber and bordeaux red soften the metallic fixtures of the interiors. A sophisticated sense of modern design is evident throughout, especially in the glamorous rooms and suites—don’t be surprised to find the glass shower near your bed. The health club is one of the best in Frankfurt.

Eschenheimer Tor 2, 60313 Frankfurt. www.flemings-hotel.com. 069/4272320. Fax 069/42723999. 113 units. 208€–380€ double; from 419€ suite. Rates include buffet breakfast. AE, DC, MC, V. Parking 19€. U-Bahn: Eschenheimer Tor. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; concierge; state-of-the-art health club; room service. In room: A/C, TV, hair dryer, minibar, MP3 docking station (in some), Wi-Fi (free).

Villa Orange ★★ This hotel resulted from the radical renovation of a century-old building with lots of architectural character. A team of architects and decorators with taste and talent created a conservative and elegant interior that combines lots of natural hardwoods into radiant hues of orange. Although technically in the Northend, it provides easy access to the leafy park surrounding the center and the Altstadt. Overall, the hotel is comfortable, intimate, tasteful, and well mannered—a fine alternative to one of the megahotels.

Hebelstrasse 1, 60318 Frankfurt. www.villa-orange.de. 069/405840. Fax 069/40584100. 38 units. 90€–255€ double. AE, DC, MC, V. Free parking. U-Bahn: Musterschule or Merienplatz. Amenities: Bar; babysitting. In room: A/C, TV, hair dryer, Wi-Fi (free).

Moderate

Hotel Neue Kräme There aren’t many quaint, family run hotels in the heart of Frankfurt, but this one located in a pedestrian street fits the bill. Outside you’re within view of the Römerberg to the south and the Liebfrauenkirche to the north, and many of the city’s sites lie within a 10-minute walk. Behind the unassuming facade, the bright blue and soft yellow tones of the interior invite the daylight in. Your host Frau Wenzl makes you feel at home in basic but lovingly maintained rooms with spotless bathrooms.

Neue Kräme 23, 60311 Frankfurt. www.hotel-neuekraeme.de. 069/284046. Fax 069/296288. 21 units. 79€–130€ double. Rates include buffet breakfast. AE, DC, MC, V. Parking 10€. U-Bahn: Dom/Römer. Amenities: In room: TV; hair dryer; Wi-Fi (free).

Inexpensive

Admiral This modern hotel on the eastern edge of the old town provides basic comfort and easy access to the zoo—a huge plus for families. The location is also on a side of Frankfurt not many see, within walking distance to the nightlife along Bergerstrasse in Bornheim. Rooms have classic Scandinavian furnishings with wood touches on bold swaths of color. Bathrooms are tight, but pristine. A copious buffet breakfast will energize you before tackling the wildlife in the zoo.

Hölderlinstrasse 25, 60136 Frankfurt. www.hoteladmiral.de. 069/448021. Fax 069/439402. 47 units. 65€–82€ double. Rates include buffet breakfast. AE, DC, MC, V. Parking 10€. U-Bahn: Zoologischer Garten (Zoo). Amenities: Bar. In room: TV, minibar, Wi-Fi (free).

Around the Fairgrounds (Messe) & Main Station

Very Expensive

Hotel Hessischer Hof ★★★ Frankfurt hotels don’t get much better than this. If it wasn’t for the Steigenberger Frankfurter Hof (see above), it would be the top-ranking hotel in the city. A private and traditional place opposite the trade-fair building, this boxy, nine-story hotel may have a relatively modest postwar exterior, but shines with an interior that radiates luxury. Many of the bedrooms are furnished with antiques, and those in the older building in front feature added touches like chandeliers strung from high ceilings and 19th-century lithographs. Rooms here are not quite as elegant as those at the Frankfurter Hof and Meridien. But in the newer wing, the Nordflügel, the bedrooms outrank even the stiffest Frankfurt competitors. In the evening, enjoy its great jazz bar, Jimmy’s.

Friedrich-Ebert-Anlage 40, 60325 Frankfurt. www.hessischer-hof.de. 069/75400. Fax 069/75402924. 117 units. 291€–600€ double; from 300€ and way up suite. Children 12 and under stay free in parent’s room. AE, DC, MC, V. Parking 24€. U-Bahn: Festhalle/Messe. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; airport transfers (110€); babysitting; bikes; concierge; exercise room; room service. In room: A/C, TV, fax, hair dryer, minibar, Wi-Fi (free).

Le Méridien Parkhotel ★★ Le Méridien Parkhotel provides warmth and personal attention to its guests (mainly from the world of commerce), who can walk over to the fairgrounds in mere minutes. It opens onto its own verdant, park-like square. The hotel has been built in two sections—an ornately decorated 1905 palace and a sleek but duller 1970s boxy wing. Go for the older, more traditional rooms in the palais, which have a luxurious atmosphere and are individually designed. As you can imagine, they are more expensive than those in the annex, where units are albeit larger with high ceilings and built-in furnishings.

Wiesenhüttenplatz 28–38, 60329 Frankfurt. www.lemeridien-frankfurt.com. 866/500-8320 in the U.S. and Canada, or 069/26970. Fax 069/2697884. 300 units. 211€–520€ double; 329€–679€ suite. AE, DC, MC, V. Parking 27€. U-Bahn: 8. Near the Hauptbahnhof. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; babysitting; concierge; room service; spa. In room: A/C, TV, hair dryer, minibar, Wi-Fi (21€ per day).

Expensive

An Der Messe ★ This quiet charmer is the choice of seasoned and discriminating visitors to Frankfurt. Its location opposite the university offers ideal access to the fairgrounds and train station, but a few stops on the U-Bahn away from the sights and center. The staff is friendly enough and the rooms are stylishly furnished, especially the superior class units with Asian, African, or Thai motifs.

Westendstrasse 104, 60325. www.hotel-an-der-messe.de. 069/747979. Fax 069/748349. 45 units. 100€–395€ double. Rates include buffet breakfast. AE, DC, MC, V. Underground garage parking 15€. Tram: 16 or 17. Amenities: Babysitting; concierge; room service. In room: TV, hair dryer, minibar, Wi-Fi (free).

Maritim Hotel Frankfurt ★★ This behemoth of a hotel feels like a city within a city. With more than 500 rooms, this may be the best choice for those interested in visiting a trade fair, especially given the direct covered walkway leading to the fairgrounds (be sure to book early though). The hotel also provides decent access to the rest of the city, if you don’t mind a longer walk or a short ride on the U-Bahn. The anonymous service and neutral decor are what you would expect from a place that caters to so many, but the friendly staff and comforts like reclined armchairs are still appealing. Bedrooms may be neutral, but they’re very comfortable. The long writing desks make excellent workspaces.

Theodor-Heuss-Allee 3, 60486 Frankfurt. www.maritim-hotels.de. 069/75780. Fax 069/75781000. 543 units. 145€–585€ double; 315€–795€ suite. AE, DC, MC, V. Parking 27€. U-Bahn: Festhalle/Messe. Amenities: 2 restaurants; 2 bars; bikes; concierge; exercise room; Jacuzzi; indoor heated pool; room service; sauna. In room: A/C, TV, hair dryer, minibar, Wi-Fi (18€ per day).

The Pure ★★ The Pure is like no other hotel in all of Frankfurt. A new concept in hotel design, it carries modernism, not to mention all things white, to its extremes. Walking a few minutes from the train station, you come to a nondescript facade with a barely visible sign, and enter a bleached lobby straight out of a Kubrick film, if not a Star Wars spacecraft. It seems like the only colors allowed line the liquor shelf behind the bar. The sleek rooms make way for a few more tones from the color spectrum, with hints of darker shades and wood paneling accentuating the bleached linens and leather headboard of the bed.

Niddastrasse 86, 60329 Frankfurt. www.the-pure.de. 069/7104570. Fax 069/710457177. 50 units. 120€–450€ double. AE, DC, MC, V. Parking 15€. Amenities: Bar; exercise room; room service; sauna. In room: A/C, TV, hair dryer, minibar, Wi-Fi (free).

25hours Hotel by Levi’s ★★ This clever boutique hotel is an attraction itself. The name Levi’s should give you a hint about its decoration of choice: denim. From the upholstery of the chairs in the lobby and rooms to the head boards, the blue jeans fabric sets the tone for an ambience that reflects more than just the material. The entire Levi’s lifestyle is reflected in such unique additions as Wurlitzer jukeboxes in some rooms and a music practice space with Gibson instruments for jams. The weft and warp of the jeans fabric form the pattern of the wallpaper, and chrome fixtures revive that fifties feel in the lobby.

Niddastrasse 58, 60329 Frankfurt. www.25hours-hotels.com. 069/2566770. Fax 069/256677288. 76 units. 75€–110€ double. AE, DC, MC, V. Parking 15€. U-Bahn: Hauptbahnhof. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; room service. In room: A/C, TV, hair dryer, minibar; MP3 docking station, Wi-Fi (free).

Moderate

Fleming’s Hotel Messe ★ The flagship hotel of the Fleming’s brand has entered its seventh year of providing sleek design at an affordable rate. Less expensive than the previously mentioned sibling, this hotel boasts a convenient location near the fairgrounds, train station, and financial district. Making good use of wood and elegant fabrics, the bedrooms have a sleek contemporary look and are quite comfortable. Some of the superior rooms have a large desk. Especially appealing is the on-site French brasserie and deli. The dining section sells succulent grill and seafood specialties, and the deli has some top-quality treats, including freshly filled baguettes and a selection of cheese or antipasti to go.

Mainzer Landstrasse 87, 60329 Frankfurt. www.flemings-hotels.com. 069/8080800. Fax 069/808080499. 96 units. 135€–355€ double. AE, DC, MC, V. Parking 15€. U-Bahn or S-Bahn: Hauptbahnhof. Amenities: Restaurant, bar; babysitting; concierge; room service. In room: A/C, TV, hair dryer, minibar, Wi-Fi (free).

Inexpensive

Continental Located in the area around the Hauptbahnhof, this relic of the Belle Epoque era provides a hint of nostalgia behind an unassuming facade for a decent price. Often the choice of business travelers, its decor varies from subdued tones of black, white, and tan, to a circus of color. You can’t get any closer to the station, and street noise from the nearby bars is not an issue here.

Baselerstrasse 56, 60329 Frankfurt www.hotelcontifrankfurt.de. 069/42729990. Fax 069/232914. 88 units. 57€–262€ double. AE, DC, MC, V. Parking 20€. U-Bahn or S-Bahn: Hauptbahnhof. Amenities: Restaurant. In room: TV, hair dryer.

In Westend

Expensive

Hotel Palmenhof ★ A short walk from the botanical gardens, this five-story Art Nouveau building retains some of its original architectural features. Behind its grand facade of 1890 reddish sandstone, the interior has such architectural features as skylights beaming light down onto a Belle Epoque set of furniture. Rooms have somewhat fussy furnishings but are well kept and often contain high ceilings. Not only is it near the Palmengarten, it stands across from the Cafe im Literaturhaus, a wining-and-dining spot that seduces authors away from book fairs.

Bockenheimer Landstrasse 89–91, 60325 Frankfurt. www.palmenhof.com. 069/7530060. Fax 069/75300666. 45 units. Mon–Thurs 162€–182€ double, 235€ suite; Fri–Sun 85€–100€ double, 165€ suite. AE, DC, MC, V. Parking 15€. U-Bahn: Westend. Amenities: Room service. In room: TV, hair dryer, minibar, Wi-Fi (free).

Moderate

Art Hotel Robert Mayer ★ The manager of this villa found a creative solution when it came time to renovate the rooms back in 1994: commission local visual artists. Each of the twelve interiors in the century-old villa features a personal vision associated with a designer from Frankfurt. You may find a thought-provoking jumble of furniture inspired by Frank Lloyd Wright or an anonymous Milanese postmodernist piece set adjacent to pop art. No matter the design, the creature comforts provide a good night’s rest.

Robert-Mayer-Strasse 44, 60486 Frankfurt am Main. www.arthotel-frankfurt.de. 069/9709100. Fax 069/97091010. 12 units. 85€–275€ double. Rates include continental breakfast. AE, DC, MC, V. Nearby parking 7€. U-Bahn: Bockenheimer Warte. In room: TV, Wi-Fi (free).

Hotel Liebig ★ The aura within this upscale B&B is small-scale, intimate, and luxurious, with an intensely “decorated” look that could have been lifted directly from the pages of a Laura Ashley (or Versace) catalog. As such, it presents a welcome change for business travelers looking for something more personalized and less anonymous than what’s available within one of the blockbuster hotels closer to the fairgrounds. The town house that contains it was built in 1905 and still retains its ornate maroon sandstone facade, its curving interior staircase, and proportions that hint at its origins as an upscale private home.

Liebigstrasse 45, 60323 Frankfurt am Main. www.hotelliebig.de. 069/24182990. Fax 069/24182991. 20 units. 118€–215€ double; 195€–290€ suite. AE, MC, V. Free parking. U-Bahn: Westend. In room: A/C, TV, minibar, Wi-Fi (free).

Villa Diana A self-proclaimed needle in a haystack, this spotless and homey abode provides villa elegance at a reasonable price. Its location in the relaxed Westend district in a pleasant residential street is ideal for strolls in the Palmengarten, or a night at the opera. An inviting drawing room and an intimate breakfast salon make up the common areas. The small bedrooms are lackluster but comfortable and well maintained, each with a neat little bathroom with a shower stall.

Westendstrasse 83, 60325 Frankfurt. www.villadianafrankfurt.de. 069/9074420. Fax 069/90744277. 26 units. 135€–265€ double; 165€–295€ junior suite or triple. Rates include continental breakfast. AE, DC, MC, V. Parking 15€. U-Bahn: Westend or Festhalle/Messe. Amenities: Breakfast room. In room: TV, hair dryer, minibar, Wi-Fi (free).

Across the Main

Very Expensive

Villa Kennedy ★★★ On the south bank of the Main River, this luxurious five-star hotel occupies a trio of recently constructed buildings and the 1904 Villa Speyer. It lies close to the center of Frankfurt’s Left Bank nightlife district, Sachsenhausen, with its vibrant bars and restaurants. Along with the Pure, Villa Kennedy is the epitome of Teutonic cool. “We are more than a crash pad,” the manager claims. “We are a way of life.”

The hotel respects the past but is as modern as the 21st century. Surprisingly for a city hotel, the villa is set in landscaped gardens. The bedrooms are spacious and among the swankiest in town, with beautiful furnishings, subtle lighting, wooden floors, and full-length-mirrored walls; the suites are the pride of Frankfurt, fit for a visiting president. Off the central courtyard and garden is the colonnaded Gusto, a first-class restaurant serving both German and international cuisine. Guests and nonresidents alike meet in JFK’s Bar & Lounge.

Kennedyallee 70, 60596 Frankfurt am Main. www.villakennedy.com. 069/717120. Fax 069/717122430. 163 units. 550€–590€ double; from 685€ suite. AE, DC, MC, V. Parking 27€. U-Bahn: Schweizer Platz. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; concierge; health club and spa; indoor heated pool; room service. In room: A/C, TV, minibar, Wi-Fi (free).

Moderate

Am Berg ★ Deep down in Sachsenhausen, this is a great location for those seeking offbeat accommodations in a romantic old villa with towers and turrets. It’s a glimpse of how life used to be before the bombs of World War II rained down on Frankfurt. Only a 5-minute ride from the city center, it stands in a leafy residential section near the Südbahnhof (the south train station). Each of the midsize to spacious bedrooms has an individual decor, but all are well maintained, inviting, and comfortable. The hotel itself dates from 1900, and many of the rooms rest under high ceilings. The smallest rooms are on the second and third floors.

Grethenweg 23, Sachsenhausen, 60598 Frankfurt. www.hotelamberg.com. 069/612021. Fax 069/615109. 21 units. 68€–252€. AE, MC, V. Free parking. U-Bahn or S-Bahn: Südbahnhof. Amenities: Wi-Fi (free; in lobby). In room: TV, hair dryer, minibar.

Gerbermühle ★★ When Goethe was a young man and this building was a romantic villa, he met his first love here. After years of being dilapidated, this building, which originally was a 16th-century flour mill, has emerged as a favorite address for the Schickimicki (fashionistas). Guest rooms are imbued with a sense of the romantic, with beautiful furnishings including French beds and bathrooms in Belgian marble. Each individually decorated bedroom is in a country-house style. All signs of Goethe’s day are now gone except for the first-rate Biergarten overlooking the Main River. To honor the writer, the chefs still serve his favorite dish, veal Tafelspitz with a green sauce made with nine fresh herbs.

Deutschherrnufer 105, 60594 Frankfurt am Main. www.gerbermuehle.de. 069/9652290. Fax 069/689777966. 20 units. 180€ double; from 400€ suite. AE, MC, V. Bus: 46. Amenities: Restaurant; room service. In room: A/C, TV, minibar, Wi-Fi (free).

In the East End

Moderate

Goldman 25hours Frankfurt ★ Artists and media types tend to favor this hotel with its often mischievous design, including lamps that are penguin replicas wearing shades on their heads. After work, its bar scene becomes boisterous and is the place to be seen. The designers loved color and saturated the hotel with it—and they’re not afraid to use purple. A Schickimicki (fashionista) admitted, “I always stay here because it’s cool and sexy.” Think of it as an urban retreat for night owls, with individually decorated bedrooms that are stylishly comfortable, and very avant-garde.

Hanauer Landstrasse 127, 60314 Frankfurt am Main. www.25hours-hotels.com. 069/40586890. Fax 069/4058689890. 49 units. 75€–125€ double. AE, DC, MC, V. Free parking nearby. U-Bahn: Zoo. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; room service. In room: A/C, TV, hair dryer, minibar, Wi-Fi (free).

On the Outskirts

Expensive

Hotel Amadeus ★ Set within the leafy residential suburb of Bergen-Enkheim, an easy 15-minute tram ride east from central Frankfurt, this is a warm and friendly hotel with well-designed rooms. It’s also one of the leading architectural highlights of its neighborhood, featuring a soaring, atrium-style lobby fronted with glass, marble floors, and three wings that join in a design that emulates an airplane propeller. The staff here is especially charming, and on-site is a cozy bar that stays open late, a restaurant that attracts residents of the surrounding community, and a concierge who knows how to get things done.

Röntgenstrasse 5, 60338 Frankfurt am Main. www.hotel-amadeus-frankfurt.de. 06109/3700. Fax 06109/370720. 160 units. Mon–Fri 109€–188€ double; Sat–Sun 68€–98€ double. AE, MC, V. Free parking. U-Bahn: Hessen Center. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; babysitting; concierge; access to nearby health club. In room: A/C, TV, hair dryer, kitchenette (in some), minibar, Wi-Fi (free).

Inexpensive

Hotelschiff Peter Schlott ★ For something completely different, experience the Main river by sleeping on it in this 1950s riverboat. Its only drawback is its location in the western suburb of Höchst, a 10-minute ride on the S-Bahn—the experience of feeling like you’re at sea makes the trip worth it, though. As expected, the cabins are snug and the mattresses thin, but the gently lapping waters beneath you will lull you into slumber. Night owls and those with lots of luggage might want to find another hotel.

Mainberg, 65929 Frankfurt. www.hotel-schiff-schlott.de. 069/30067680. Fax 069/307671. 19 units, all with wash basins, 10 with shower, none with toilet. 65€ double without shower; 100€ double with shower. Rates include continental breakfast. AE, DC, MC, V. S-Bahn: Höchst. Amenities: Restaurant. In room: No phone.

Side Trips from Frankfurt

Picturesque Aschaffenburg and some of the leading spas of Germany lie on Frankfurt’s doorstep. Another memorable side trip is to Mainz.

Aschaffenburg

40km (25 miles) SE of Frankfurt, 77km (48 miles) NW of Würzburg

Aschaffenburg was originally a Roman settlement on the right bank of the Main River and later became an important town in the Middle Ages. In recent years, it’s grown industrially, but even with 250 garment manufacturers, the town has remained peaceful and provincial. Tucked in the northwestern corner of Bavaria, its many parks and shady lanes make it a fitting gateway to the streams and woodlands of the Spessart Hills. Weekly fairs are held on the square, where fishers along the banks of the Main sell seafood straight from their buckets. Many traditional shops are in a pedestrian zone, with lamps, fountains, and flowers.

Essentials

Getting There By Train The Aschaffenburg Bahnhof is on the major Nürnberg-Würzburg-Frankfurt line and on the regional Maintal Aschaffenburg-Mittenburg-Wertheim line, with frequent connections in all directions. From Frankfurt, 36 trains arrive daily (trip time: 30 min.–1 hr.). For information, call 01805/996633 or visit www.bahn.de.

By Bus There is no direct bus service between Frankfurt and Aschaffenburg.

By Car Access by car is via the A3 Autobahn east and west.

Visitor Information Contact Tourist-Information, Schlossplatz 1 ( 06021/395800;www.info-aschaffenburg.de). It’s open April to September Monday to Friday 9am to 6pm and Saturday 9am to 1pm, October to March Monday to Friday 9am to 5pm and Saturday 10am to 1pm.

Getting Around Aschaffenburg and the immediate region around it are served by a network of green-painted buses whose junction is the Hauptbahnhof, the city’s main railway station. Because many of the streets within the city’s historic core are reserved for pedestrians, many sightseers take bus no. 1, 4, 5, or 8 between the Hauptbahnhof and the Stadthalle (town hall), immediately adjacent to the Altstadt. Buses run daily 5:30am to 9pm. Rides within the central zone cost 1.50€ per person each way. An all-day ticket goes for 2.80€. For information, call the city tourist office ( 06021/395800).

Exploring Aschaffenburg

The best park in Aschaffenburg is Schönbusch Park, Kleine Schönbuschallee 1 ( 06021/625478; bus: 4), located 3km (2 miles) across the Main southwest of the center. It’s a marvel of planning, using the natural surroundings as a setting for formal 18th-century gardens, shady lanes, temples, and gazebos. At the edge of the mirror-smooth lake is a small neoclassical castle, really a country house, once used by the electors of Mainz. The house is open April to September Tuesday to Sunday 9am to 6pm. Admission is free. In summer, it’s possible to rent a small boat to go on the lake. There’s also a cafe/restaurant open daily 8am to 8pm.

The most impressive sight in Aschaffenburg is the huge Renaissance Schloss Johannisburg ★, Schlossplatz 4 ( 06021/386570; bus: 1, 4, or 8), reflected in the waters of the Main. Erected from 1605 to 1614, it became the residence of the rulers of the town, the prince-electors of Mainz. The red-sandstone castle is almost perfectly symmetrical, with four massive lantern towers surrounding an inner courtyard. April to September, the castle is open daily 9am to 6pm; October to March, hours are daily 10am to 4pm. Admission is 5.50€ for adults and 4.50€ for children 14 and under. While here you can visit the Schlossweinstuben (see below). From the castle gardens you can reach the Pompeiianum, built by Bavaria’s King Ludwig I as a replica of the Castor and Pollux palace discovered among the ruins of Pompeii. The Pompeiianum is open April to mid-October Tuesday to Sunday 9am to 6pm. Admission is 5.50€ for adults, 4.50€ for students, and free for children 14 and under. The combination ticket for Schloss Johannisburg and the Pompeiianum is 9€ for adults, 7€ for children 14 and under.

Stiftskirche St. Peter and St. Alexander, Stiftsgasse 5 ( 06021/22420;www.stiftsbasilika.de; bus: 1, 4, or 10), has overlooked the town for 1,000 years and its varied architecture reflects the periods of remodeling and reconstruction, culminating as a combination of Romanesque, Gothic, and baroque. Its most precious treasure is the painted retable The Lamentation of Christ, by Mathias Grünewald. The interior is decorated with several paintings of the school of Lucas Cranach, as well as a marble-alabaster pulpit by Hans Juncker. One of the oldest pieces is a Roman-style crucifix from A.D. 980. Adjacent to the north side of the church is a Romanesque cloister from the 13th century. The church is open Wednesday to Monday 11am to 5pm. Admission is free, but a tour costs 3€ adults, 2€ students and children, and 6€ for a family ticket.

Where to Dine

Meals are also offered at the two hotels listed below.

Schlossweinstuben FRANCONIAN/BAVARIAN One of the most alluring corners of this historic castle is its popular wine cellar, where you’ll find a wide variety of German wines to complement the conservative but well-prepared menu items. A meal may begin with liver-dumpling soup, and then follow with a game specialty (depending on the season). The selection of very fresh fish is likely to include trout and pike. There is no pretension to this cuisine—it’s just hearty, rib-sticking fare.

Schloss Johannisburg. 06021/12440. Reservations recommended. Main courses 8.50€–18€. No credit cards. Apr–Oct daily 11am–midnight; Nov–Mar Tues–Sun 11am–midnight. Bus: 1, 3, or 4.

Where to Stay

Hotel Dalberg Built in 1994, this hotel occupies a prominent site that’s within a 5-minute walk from Aschaffenburg’s historic core and its pedestrian zone. Rising behind an all-white, four-story facade, it offers cozy, well-designed rooms, each with a tiled shower. On the premises you’ll find a rustic-looking Weinstube (wine bar) serving regional cuisine and drinks from a bar.

Pfaffengasse 12–14, 63739 Aschaffenburg. www.hotel-dalberg.de. 06021/3560. Fax 06021/219894. 26 units. 95€–220€ double. Rates include continental breakfast. AE, MC, V. Parking 11€. Bus: 1 or 4. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; airport transfers 46€. In room: TV, minibar, Wi-Fi (free).

Hotel Post This is the town’s premier hotel, offering greater comfort than its rivals. Close to the heart of town and built in 1919, rooms are well maintained and decorated in traditional style. Some units come with a tub and shower, others only a shower. The dining room is a stylized version of an old posting inn; it includes an original mail coach, timbered walls and ceiling, and lead-glass windows. Reasonably priced Franconian meals are served here.

Goldbacherstrasse 19–21, 63739 Aschaffenburg. www.post-ab.de. 06021/3340. Fax 06021/334144. 69 units. 103€–126€ double; 125€–149€ junior suite. AE, DC, MC, V. Parking 4€. Bus: 1, 3, 4, 6, or 10. Amenities: Restaurant; babysitting; indoor heated pool; room service; sauna. In room: A/C, TV, hair dryer, minibar, Wi-Fi (free).

Wiesbaden ★

40km (25 miles) W of Frankfurt, 151km (94 miles) SE of Bonn

This sheltered valley, between the Rhine and the Taunus mountains, has held a spa since Roman times. Today, Wiesbaden competes with Baden-Baden for the title of Germany’s most fashionable resort. Its success is based partly on its 26 hot springs, with temperatures of 117° to 150°F (47°–66°C), and partly on its proximity to Frankfurt’s transportation centers, which gives the spa a distinctly international flavor.

Wiesbaden also boasts its cultural side. Every spring it plays host to the International May Festival of music, dance, and drama. The major concert halls are in the Kurhaus, a lively, multiroomed structure centered on a cupola-crowned hall. In addition to concerts, the complex hosts plays and ballets, plus a variety of social gatherings, such as international conferences, congresses, exhibitions, and trade fairs. It also holds a casino, a lively restaurant, and an outdoor cafe.

For more active visitors, Wiesbaden offers horseback riding, a golf course, swimming, tennis, and hiking. The streets of the city are nice to stroll, as is the Kurpark, which has a lake surrounded by old shade trees. It’s especially beautiful at night, when the water reflects the lights of the spa and the huge fountains are lit. The park stretches for about a kilometer (1⁄2 mile) northward along the Kuranlagen, ending in a fancy residential quarter, the Sonnenberg.

Essentials

Getting There By Train Trains run between Frankfurt airport and Wiesbaden about every hour, leaving from the airport’s lower level (trip time: 30 min.). Tickets can be purchased at machines in the station area or at the airport’s railway ticket counter. There’s also frequent service from the center of Frankfurt on S-Bahn S-1 and S-9 (trip time: 30–40 min.). For information, call 01805/996633 or visit www.bahn.de.

By Car Wiesbaden lies at a major crossroads, with access via the A3 Autobahn from the north and south, connecting with the A66 Autobahn from the west and east. Travel time by car from Frankfurt is about 20 to 30 minutes, depending on traffic. From the Frankfurt airport to Wiesbaden by car is about 20 minutes.

Visitor Information The Verkehrsbüro, Marktplatz 1 ( 0611/1729930;www.wiesbaden.de), is open October to March Monday to Friday 10am to 6pm, and Saturday 9:45am to 3pm; April to September Monday to Friday 10am to 6pm, Saturday 9:45am to 3pm, and Sunday 11am to 3pm.

Getting Around The Hauptbahnhof is the junction point for most of the city’s bus lines. Buses are blue-sided, and charge, depending on the distance within the city limits you travel, 2.40€ to 5.80€ per ride. City buses operate Monday to Friday between 5am and midnight, at intervals of between 10 and 15 minutes, with less frequent service on Saturday and Sunday. Kirchgasse and Langgasse are two of the most prominent streets in the pedestrian zone, but the closest point to catch a bus to either of them is in front of the Staatstheater.

Thermal Baths The big, modern, and well-maintained Kaiser Friedrich Therme, Langgasse 38–40 ( 0611/1729660;www.wiesbaden.de), are famous within Germany for their ability to soothe the aches and pains of arthritis, gout, indigestion, and other ailments induced by age and everyday stress. The saunas and thermally heated swimming pools are open daily from 10am to 10pm (Fri and Sat until midnight). Admission costs 3.50€ per hour from May to August, going up to 5€ per hour from September to April. Remember that the venue here involves both men and women who mingle freely within the facilities. Tuesday, however, is reserved for women. Also pleasant is the surrounding park whose landscaping includes hundreds of seasonal flowers.

Where to Dine

Ente Restaurant ★★★ CONTINENTAL/MEDITERRANEAN This restaurant serves the best food in town, and the innovative chef makes sure that meals are as pleasing to the eye as they are to the palate. The light, modern cuisine features weekly changing specialties; typical offerings include ravioli of Canadian lobster with a crustacean foam or breast of pigeon with roast black pudding and a mace foam. Other good dishes include milk-fed suckling pig cutlet and U.S. roast beef glazed with honey. Desserts, especially the lemon soufflé with strawberries and the mountain-honey ice cream, are reason enough to visit. Ente also has one of the best wine lists in Europe, including many moderately priced bottles. A boutique, delicatessen, wine cellar, and bistro are attached.

In the Hotel Nassauer Hof, Kaiser-Friedrich-Platz 3–4. 0611/133666.www.nassauer-hof.de. Reservations required. Main courses 28€–42€. AE, DC, MC, V. Tues–Fri 6–11pm; Sat noon–3pm and 6–11pm. Bus: 1, 2, 8, or 16.

Käfer’s INTERNATIONAL Käfer’s directs two restaurants within one at the stately and prestigious Kurhaus. The more appealing of the two is Käfer’s Bistro, a replica of the kind of bustling, upscale, well-run bistro you may find in Lyon or Paris. In an adjoining room is the airier, quieter, and more self-consciously formal Casino Restaurant. The menu and prices are the same as in the bistro, but the atmosphere is calmer and, frankly, a bit more stuffy. Men are required to wear a jacket and tie. Menu items change every 4 weeks. Examples may include smoked salmon served with a Rösti pancake, crème fraîche, and chives; Canadian lobster with yogurt-flavored cocktail sauce and lemon; penne pasta with pesto sauce and grilled giant prawns; vegetarian dishes; and, in springtime, asparagus with filet mignon, bacon, or salmon steak. Dessert may be a mousse, flavored with three kinds of chocolate.

In the Kurhaus, Kurhausplatz 1. 0611/536200.www.kurhaus-gastronomie.de. Reservations recommended. Main courses 18€–32€. AE, MC, V. Daily 11:30am–1am. Bus: 1, 2, or 8.

Restaurant M AUSTRIAN/INTERNATIONAL Set on the street level of the Hotel de France, a stately looking structure built in 1880, this is an upscale brasserie that attracts actors, politicians, and in-the-know yuppies who appreciate good food and conversation. Surrounded by decor that includes memorabilia from upscale cigar companies, movie stills from the ’30s and ’40s, and African hunting trophies, you can enjoy mostly Austrian food with international touches, all of it prepared by Markus Seegert. Some of the most appealing menu items include wild garlic risotto with grilled prawns in a white-wine sauce, and a classic Wiener Schnitzel with pan-fried potatoes and cranberries. The hotel that contains this restaurant is a four-star place with 37 rooms and doubles priced from 132€ to 192€. Each room has a TV, telephone, minibar, safe, and contemporary decor.

In the Hotel de France, Taunusstrasse 49. 0611/2048765.www.mrestaurant.de. Reservations recommended. Main courses 19€–30€. AE, DC, MC, V. Mon–Sat 5–10:30pm. Bus: 1.

Wiesbaden After Dark

“Rien ne va plus” is the call when the ball starts to roll on the gaming tables at the historic Spielbank Wiesbaden, Im Kurhaus, Kurhausplatz 1 ( 0611/536100;www.spielbank-wiesbaden.de; bus: 1, 8, or 16). Opened in 1771, this is where Fyodor Dostoyevsky blew his credit in 1865 and dictated The Gambler in record time to compensate. You’ll find roulette, blackjack, and poker. To enter, you must present a passport or an identification card. You must be 18 to enter and gamble, and men must wear jackets and ties. The casino is open daily 3pm to 3am and admission is 2.50€.

Music and theater flourish in Wiesbaden throughout the year. For information on performances during your visit, check the Wiesbaden tourist office (see “Visitor Information,” above). For information about any of the conference and cultural facilities in the Kurhaus compound, including the casino and theater, call 0611/17290.

Hessisches Staatstheater, Christian-Zais-Strasse 3 ( 0611/1321;www.staatstheater-wiesbaden.de; bus: 1), built in 1894 by Emperor Wilhelm II, is one of the most beautiful theaters in Germany. From September to June it presents a program of operettas, musicals, ballets, and plays. Tickets are 8€ to 50€.The important International May Festival features concerts, classical in-house drama productions, and a wide selection of guest performances by internationally renowned theater companies. For information and tickets, call 0611/1321, or visit www.maifestspiele.de.

The sprawling and gentrified Park Café, Wilhelmstrasse 36 ( 0611/3413246;www.park-cafe-wiesbaden.de; bus: 1), incorporates a cafe, brasserie, and a nightclub. The cover ranges from 8€ to 12€, and it’s open daily 9pm to 4am.

Where to Stay

Admiral Hotel The centrally located Admiral is a favorite of traditionalists and one of Wiesbaden’s best values. Readers consistently praise the owners (a retired U.S. Army officer and his German-born wife) for their hospitality. Rooms are furnished in a charmingly old-fashioned way, often with brass beds. Bathrooms are small yet well maintained. The hotel offers a healthy, hearty breakfast to start your day.

Geisbergstrasse 8, 65193 Wiesbaden. www.admiral-hotel.de. 0611/58660. Fax 0611/521053. 23 units. 79€–139€ double; 98€–149€ triple. Rates include buffet breakfast. AE, DC, MC, V. Parking 14€. Bus: 1 or 8. A 5-min. walk from the Kurhaus. In room: TV, hair dryer, Wi-Fi (free).

Hotel am Landeshaus This central hotel is one of the spa’s best reasonably priced hotels. It balances fresh modernity with warmth and comfort. Rooms are well kept, with small but immaculate bathrooms. Guests can enjoy drinks in a rustic ale tavern on-site.

Moritzstrasse 51, 65185 Wiesbaden. www.hotel-am-landeshaus.de. 0611/996660. Fax 0611/996666. 15 units. 69€–135€ double. Rates include buffet breakfast. MC, V. Free parking. Bus: 3, 6, 16, 22, 28, or 33. Within walking distance of the railroad station. In room: TV, Wi-Fi (free).

Hotel Klee am Park ★★ This hotel is highly recommend for those who find the older, more luxurious Nassauer Hof a bit too monumental. Klee am Park is a modern hotel in a tranquil setting, surrounded by its own informal gardens. The theater, casino, and shopping area are nearby. Rooms have French doors opening onto balconies; some have sitting areas large enough for entertaining.

Parkstrasse 4, 65189 Wiesbaden. www.klee-am-park.de. 0611/90010. Fax 0611/9001310. 60 units. 148€–188€ double. AE, DC, MC, V. Free parking. Bus: 8. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; room service. In room: TV, hair dryer, minibar, Wi-Fi (12€ per hour).

Hotel Klemm ★ This little hotel occupies a late-19th-century Jugendstil villa with solid stone walls, attracting many repeat visitors who are drawn to its charm and its good value. The midsize bedrooms are attractively decorated, often with small sitting areas. The staff is one of the most gracious and helpful in town, and the breakfast buffet is generous.

Kapellenstrasse 9, 65193 Wiesbaden. www.hotel-klemm.de. 0611/5820. Fax 0611/582222. 60 units. 100€–180€ double. AE, DC, MC, V. Bus: 1, or 8. Near the Kurhaus. In room: TV, hair dryer, minibar, Wi-Fi (free).

Hotel Nassauer Hof ★★★ The superluxurious Nassauer Hof is among the most appealing hotels in town. Often referred to as the grande dame of Wiesbaden, its spacious rooms have up-to-date conveniences like soundproof windows, elegant furnishings, and comfortable appointments. Bathrooms contain tub/showers, deluxe beauty products, and robes. The hotel stands in the city center, within walking distance of the Kurhaus, Spielbank, theaters, and a shopping area.

Kaiser-Friedrich-Platz 3–4, 65183 Wiesbaden. www.nassauer-hof.de. 800/2236800 in the U.S., or 0611/1330. Fax 0611/133632. 159 units. 328€–358€ double; from 460€ suite. AE, DC, MC, V. Parking 20€. Bus: 1, 2, 8 or 16. Amenities: 2 restaurants; bar; babysitting; concierge; exercise room; indoor heated pool; room service; spa. In room: A/C, TV, hair dryer, minibar, Wi-Fi (free).

pentahotel Wiesbaden ★ Lots of businesspeople stay here instead of staying in Frankfurt, as it’s only 20 minutes from the Frankfurt airport. Because of its location outside of the center, the hotel is more suited for motorists who don’t want to face the traffic of Wiesbaden. Think of it as a good roadside motel, one that is almost equally convenient for visiting Wiesbaden or Frankfurt. Rooms are modern and comfortably furnished. If you want the old spa ambience of Wiesbaden, opt for Klee am Park or Hotel Nassauer Hof.

Abraham-Lincoln-Strasse 17, 65189 Wiesbaden. www.pentahotels.com. 0611/7970. Fax 0611/797731. 209 units. 75€–180€ double; from 239€ suite. AE, DC, MC, V. Parking 15€. Bus: 5 or 28. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; babysitting; room service. In room: A/C, TV, hair dryer, minibar, Wi-Fi (5.50€ per day).

Bad Homburg ★

16km (10 miles) N of Frankfurt, 45km (28 miles) NE of Wiesbaden

Bad Homburg is one of Germany’s most attractive spas, still basking in the grandeur left over from turn-of-the-20th-century Europe. The spa’s saline springs are known to treat various disorders, especially heart and circulatory diseases. This popular watering spot has attracted commoners and royalty from all over the world since Roman times. King Chulalongkorn of Siam (Thailand) was so impressed that he built a Buddhist temple in the Kurpark. Czar Nicholas I erected an onion-domed Russian chapel nearby. The name of the town was popularized by England’s Edward VII when, as Prince of Wales, he visited the spa and introduced a new hat style, which he called the “homburg.” The town became the gaming capital of Europe when the Blanc brothers opened the casino in 1841.

The Spa Park ★ is a verdant, carefully landscaped oasis in the middle of an otherwise rather commercial-looking town. The actual spa facilities are in the Kaiser Wilhelms Bad im Kurpark ( 06172/178178;www.kur-royal.de). They’re open daily 10am to 10pm. Entrance to the facilities is 40€ per person for 4 hours, 60€ for a full-day admission. Patrons have access to a wide range of facilities, including thermally heated pools, saunas, steam baths, and herb-enriched hot-water baths. Massage facilities and special mud baths require additional fees. The immaculately tended gardens in the surrounding Kurpark are filled with brooks, ponds, arbors, and seasonal flowers. The town center has a sprawling pedestrian-only district with many shops, restaurants, and cafes.

Essentials

Getting There By Train Visitors from Frankfurt usually opt to take the S-5 train, which runs from Frankfurt’s main railway station to Bad Homburg for a cost of 3.90€ each way. The trip takes about 20 minutes. Call 01805/996633 or visit www.rmv.de for information.

By Car Access by car from the north or south is via the A5 Autobahn, exiting at Bad Homburg.

Visitor Information For information, go to the Verkehrsamt im Kurhaus, Louisenstrasse 58 ( 06172/1783710;www.bad-homburg.de). It’s open Monday to Friday 8:30am to 6:30pm and Saturday 10am to 2pm.

Getting Around Public transport in Bad Homburg is provided by a network of green-and-white buses, with main junction points at the Hauptbahnhof, a 10-minute walk southwest of the city center, and in front of the Kurhaus, in the city center. Buses, which run daily 4:30am to midnight, charge 2.40€ per ride.

Exploring Bad Homburg

Schloss Homburg HISTORIC BUILDING This palace was the residence of the landgraves of Hesse-Homburg from its construction in 1680 until the mid–19th century. Its builder, Prince Friedrich II von Homburg, preserved the White Tower from the medieval castle that stood on the site. In the late 19th century, the palace became a summer residence for Prussian kings and, later, German emperors. The interior contains 18th-century furniture and paintings, including a bust of Prince Friedrich II by Andreas Schlüter, Germany’s greatest baroque sculptor. The former “telephone room of the empress” features Cleopatra by Pellegrini.

Schloss. 06172/9262148.www.schloesser-hessen.de. Admission 4€ adults, 2.50€ children. Tues–Fri 10am–4pm; Sat–Sun 11am–5pm. Bus: 1, 4, or 11. A few blocks from the spa gardens.

Taunus Therme BATHS A large recreation area, Taunus Therme boasts several pools, a sauna, a solarium, and a health center, plus TVs, cinemas, and two restaurants.

Seedammweg. 06172/40640.www.taunus-therme.de. Admission Mon–Fri 13€ for 2 hr., 17€ for 4 hr., 24€ for all day; Sat–Sun and holidays 15€ for 2 hr., 26€ for all day; free for children 3 and under. Sun–Tues 9am–11pm; Wed–Sat 9am–midnight. Bus: 6.

Where to Dine

Casino-Restaurant ★ FRENCH/GERMAN Until a few years ago, this was the only restaurant in Germany that directly adjoined the gaming tables of a casino. And while not in the same class as Sängers, it’s also one of the finest restaurants in town. The dining room is decorated in a formal, vaguely English style. It offers attentive service and a winning combination of light French and German cuisine. Head chef Udo Finkenwirth begins each workday searching for fresh, seasonal ingredients at the local markets. Lobster is a popular choice. Although the main kitchen service stops at 10:30pm, there’s a reduced menu until 12:30am.

Im Kurpark. 06172/170170. Reservations required. Jacket and tie required for men. Main courses 15€–25€; fixed-price menu 34€. AE, DC, V. Daily 6pm–12:30am. Tram: 5.

Sängers Restaurant ★★★ FRENCH Local food lovers and spa devotees crowd this restaurant to enjoy the highly personal and inventive cuisine, the best in town. The two elegant dining rooms are outfitted in the style of 18th-century England. Menu items may include carpaccio of turbot with Iranian caviar, goose-liver terrine served with brioche and gelatin of wild berries, a foam-capped celery soup with quail eggs, roast breast of duck on a bed of rhubarb, and a succulent array of desserts.

Kaiser-Friedrich-Promenade 85. 06172/928839.www.saengers-restaurant.de. Reservations required. Main courses 26€–35€; 5-course set menu 59€; 7-course set menu 99€. AE, MC, V. Mon–Sat noon–2pm and 7–11pm. Closed 2 weeks in July. Bus: 1, 4, 11, or 12. Near the Steigenberger Bad Homburg.

Where to Stay

Das Hardtwald Hotel ★ This hotel, resembling a chalet set in a forest, is an ideal retreat near the spa gardens. In spring, flowers overflow from its window boxes. The comfortably furnished rooms overlook the forest and come with a compact tiled bathroom. The chef in the excellent, flower-filled dining room uses only the freshest ingredients to prepare his well-known international and German dishes. In summer, tables are set on the large patio. As an added treat, you can rent horses at a stable next to the hotel

Philosophenweg 31, 61350 Bad Homburg. www.hardtwald-hotel.de. 06172/9880. Fax 06172/82512. 39 units. 105€–220€ double. Rates include buffet breakfast. AE, DC, MC, V. Bus: 3. A 20-min. walk from the center of town. Amenities: 2 restaurants; bar; room service. In room: TV, hair dryer, minibar.

Haus Daheim This light-blue corner building is one of the finest small hotels in town, with a loyal following of repeat business. The comfortable, soundproof rooms have firm beds, plus tiled bathrooms. Admittedly a modest choice compared to the hotels reviewed above, but for value, it’s hard to beat.

Elisabethenstrasse 42, 61348 Bad Homburg. www.hotel-haus-daheim.com. 06172/677350. Fax 06172/67735500. 19 units. 89€–149€ double. Rates include buffet breakfast. AE, DC, MC, V. Parking 12€. Tram: 5. A short walk from the Kurhaus. Amenities: Wi-Fi (free; in lobby). In room: TV, hair dryer, minibar.

Maritim Kurhaus-Hotel ★ As sleek and up-to-date as this hotel near the spa facilities is, the Steigenberger Bad Homburg far outclasses it. Double rooms feature king-size beds and singles have queen-size beds, but all rooms are plush. Some rooms have balconies or terraces, permitting wide-angle views over the greenery of the surrounding park; many have tall bay windows.

Kurpark, Ludwigstrasse 3, 61348 Bad Homburg. www.maritim.de. 06172/6600. Fax 06172/660100. 148 units. 84€–245€ double; 155€–265€ suite. AE, DC, MC, V. Parking 13€. Bus: 1, 2, 3, 4, 11, or 12. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; babysitting; indoor heated pool; room service; sauna. In room: TV, hair dryer, minibar, Wi-Fi (15€ per day).

Parkhotel Bad Homburg This is your best bet for a moderately priced spa vacation. This hotel has an enviable location in the middle of the Kurpark’s well-maintained gardens, near the thermal springs. Although its design is modern and angular, its edges are softened with window boxes. Rooms are conservatively furnished. On the premises are a bar and a sunroom. One of the hotel’s restaurants serves a savory Italian cuisine; the other offers excellent Asian fare.

Kaiser-Friedrich-Promenade 53–55, Am Kurpark, 61348 Bad Homburg. www.parkhotel-bad-homburg.de. 06172/8010. Fax 06172/801400. 124 units. 106€–222€ double; 148€–228€ suite. Rates include buffet breakfast. AE, DC, MC, V. Parking 12€. Tram: 5. Amenities: 2 restaurants; bar; babysitting; bikes; exercise room; Jacuzzi; room service; sauna. In room: TV, kitchenette (in some), minibar, Wi-Fi (15€ per day).

Steigenberger Bad Homburg ★★★ This is the resort’s best and most prestigious hotel. Europe’s high society used to stroll here in days of yore, and an ambience of luxury still prevails. Rooms are beautifully furnished, each with individually adjustable air-conditioning and extra-long beds. The spacious, soundproof bathrooms contain deluxe luxury items and sumptuous robes.

Kaiser-Friedrich-Promenade 69–75, 61348 Bad Homburg. www.bad-homburg.steigenberger.com. 800/2235652 in the U.S. and Canada, or 06172/1810. Fax 06172/181630. 169 units. 99€–260€ double; from 199€ suite. AE, DC, MC, V. Parking 20€. Bus: 1, 2, 3, 4, 11, or 12. Opposite the spa gardens and casino. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; babysitting; exercise room; room service; sauna. In room: A/C, TV, fax, hair dryer, minibar, Wi-Fi (5€ per hour).

Entertainment & Nightlife

Spielbank im Kurpark ( 06172/17010;www.casino-bad-homburg.de; tram: 5), called the “Mother of Monte Carlo,” is the spa’s major attraction. This casino opened way back in 1841 and helped make Bad Homburg famous. Roulette, blackjack, and baccarat are the games here. Passports are required for entrance (you must be 18 to enter and gamble), and men must wear jackets and ties. Admission is 2.50€; hours are daily 2:30pm to 3am.

The town’s favorite beer hall and Weinstube is Zum Wasserweibchen, Am Mühlberg 57 ( 06172/29878;www.wasserweibchen.de; bus: 1, 4, or 11). About 1.5km (1 mile) east of the town center in Ober-Erlenbach, you’ll find another folkloric place, Gasthaus Rupp, Homburgerstrasse 6 ( 06172/42484; bus: 2 or 12), whose home-style cuisine is enhanced by the establishment’s homemade apple wine. The Kurhaus also contains a handful of bars, cafes, and shops that usually stay open late.

The Best of Germany

In this chapter, you’ll find our carefully compiled lists of the best that Germany has to offer, from castles and cathedrals to spas, restaurants, and sightseeing—and nearly everything else you’ll want to see and do.

The best Experiences

• Exploring the New Berlin: Anyone who lived through the fear of the Cold War can’t help but shudder at the memory of the Berlin Wall. Since reunification, civic planners, with almost manic enthusiasm, have demolished large sections of what once stood as a scar across the face of a defeated nation. The architectural changes and urban developments that constantly update the cityscape around Berlin’s Friedrichstrasse and Potsdamer Platz can be confusing. But regardless of which renewal program is churning up rubble at the time of your visit, a pilgrimage through what used to be the most bitterly contested urban turf in Europe can’t help but provoke powerful emotions.

• Spending a Midsummer’s Night in a Biergarten: When the temperature rises, head for the unpretentious cheer of the nearest Biergarten (everybody in Germany seems to have a favorite, so we’re not even going to try to name the “best”). These watering holes, which often feature trellises, climbing vines, Chinese lanterns, and arbors, offer low-cost fun on soft summer nights. You can order platters of hearty food with your beer or bring your own picnic.

• Cruising the Elbe, the Danube, and the Rhine: This trio of rivers, along with their tributaries, dominated German commerce for hundreds of years. Today, an armada of tugboats, barges, and cruise ships still plies the muddy waters beside riverbanks lined with the historic majesty (and sometimes the industrial might) of central Europe. Cruises begin and end at large cities of historic interest and last anywhere from 6 hours to 7 days.

• Boating on the Königssee: A “King’s Lake” must surely be the best, and the natural beauty surrounding this body of cold, dark water doesn’t disappoint. The quiet boat ride using electric motors will allow you to hear the echoes off the forest-covered mountainsides, as you discover baroque chapels and isolated hamlets along the shore. It might just make a Romantic poet out of you.

• Hiking in the Bavarian Alps: If you’re heeding the call to climb every mountain, then the Bavarian Alps are the place to be in summer. Germany’s excellent network of trails, guides, and huts will allow you to discover the wealth of wildlife and stunning scenery. Two of the countless highlights include the 1,240m (4,070-ft.) Eckbauer south of Partenkirchen, and the southeastern “ear lobe” of Berchtesgaden National Park.

• Ascending the Zugspitze: If the gentle inclines of the Harz Mountains or the Thuringian forests aren’t dramatic enough for you, ride the cable car from Garmisch-Partenkirchen to the top of Germany’s tallest mountain, 2,960m (9,700 ft.) above sea level. The view from the top is suitably panoramic, and you’ll find an appealing aura of German-ness that comes from the many climbers and trekkers who fan out across the hiking trails.

• Experiencing a German Spa: In Germany, the question isn’t whether to visit a spa, but rather which spa to visit. Each resort has its virtues and historical associations, and can supply a list of the health benefits associated with its awful-tasting waters. Regardless of your choice, you’ll emerge from your treatment with a more relaxed attitude and a greater appreciation of German efficiency and sensuality. The most famous spas are in Baden-Baden.

• Motoring along the Neckar: The Neckar River meanders through about 80km (50 miles) of some of Germany’s most famous vineyards. But the real appeal of the winding road along the water is the medieval castles scattered along the way. Highlights en route include Heidelberg, Neckarsteinach, Hirschhorn, Eberbach, Zwingenberg, and Burg Hornberg. Don’t forget to stop en route for samplings of the local wines.

• Spending Harvest Time in the German Vineyards: Springtime in Germany brings the promise of bounty to the legendary vineyards of the Rhine and Mosel valleys, but the autumn harvest is truly the time to visit. Between late August and mid-October, the banks of the rivers turn gold and russet, and armies of workers gather buckets of grapes from rows of carefully pruned vines. Most of the medieval villages and historic castles scattered between Koblenz and Trier are associated with estates where you can sample the wines.

• Touring the Fairy-Tale Road (Märchenstrasse): This is one of the newer marketing ideas of the German tourist authorities, but considering its appeal, you’ll wonder why they didn’t think of it earlier. From the town of Hanau (a 30-min. drive northeast of Frankfurt), the route zigzags northward along the Weser River for about 600km (370 miles), through some of Germany’s most evocative folkloric architecture, ending in Bremen. Scores of well-marked detours pepper the way. Required reading for the trip is a collection of the fairy tales of the Brothers Grimm and the Nibelungen legends. Don’t overlook the psychological implications of Goldilocks, the Big Bad Wolf, and the Pied Piper of Hameln.

• Lounging on the Island of Sylt: Don’t expect a lush or verdant island—the climate is temperamental, the setting is savage, the winds blow cold from the north even in summer, and the grasses that manage to survive in the sandy dunes are as weathered and sturdy as the soldiers in a Prussian regiment. Why is it wonderful? Here, the no-nonsense residents of north Germany can preen, flutter, and show off to each other, far from the strictures of their workplaces and the hardworking grind of their everyday lives.

The best Museums

Financial prosperity, artistic flair, and academic curiosity have helped the Germans develop some of the finest museums anywhere.

• Neues Museum, Berlin: Left in ruins for decades after World War II, this museum today houses one of the greatest Egyptian museums in the world, filled with plunder from ancient Egypt. It is home to the celebrated bust of Queen Nefertiti, and its Papyrus Collection is also one of the finest in the world.

• Bode-Museum, Berlin: One of the greatest museums of Germany, the Bode reopened in 2008 to great acclaim. It houses a vast array of museums including a collection of late ancient and Byzantine art. The Picture Gallery is one of the grandest in Germany, and it is particularly strong in masterpieces from the Dutch and German schools of the 15th and 16th centuries.

• Gemäldegalerie, Berlin: This is one of Europe’s leading art museums, with a celebrated collection of works from the 13th to the 18th century. The cavalcade of major European masters ranges from Botticelli and Bruegel to Vermeer and Velázquez. Divided during the Cold War, the collection has been reunited in one home since 1998. The lighting and displays are better than ever.

• Pergamonmuseum, Berlin: Built in 1930 on an island in the Spree, this museum contains entirely reconstructed temples from ancient Assyria, Greece, Rome, and Sumer. Don’t miss the sprawling exhibitions devoted to the ancient art of the Islamic world and the Far East.

• Zwinger, Dresden: A vast rectangular esplanade flanked with pavilions, heroic statues, formal gardens, and galleries, this museum was designed for August the Strong (elector of Saxony and king of Poland), by his favorite architect, Pöppelmann (1662–1736). The destruction of the Zwinger (in the final days of World War II), one of Dresden’s most beautiful buildings, was a great loss, though its postwar reconstruction was a triumph for the East German government. Among the treasures amassed inside are paintings, 18th-century Dresden porcelain, and an ornamental collection of antique weapons.

• Deutsches Museum, Munich: Since 1925, this Louvre of science and technology has led the way in documenting humanity’s innovation. Thoroughly fascinating and amusingly hands-on, its historical exhibits will surely keep you entertained for hours.

• Alte Pinakothek, Munich: This outstanding collection of paintings spanning the 15th to 18th centuries rivals its counterparts in Cologne and Berlin. Its Rubens are gems, and Dürer fans may have to be subdued by the guards. The 19th-century hall provides just the right dosage of art for a few hours.

• Dachau Concentration Camp Memorial Site, Dachau, near Munich: Heinrich Himmler first organized Dachau as a concentration camp for enemies of the Reich in 1933. An escaped inmate, Joseph Rovan, described it as “implacable, perverted, an organization that was totally murderous, a marvelous machine for the debasement and dehumanizing of man.” Today, it’s one of the most poignant museums in the world.

• Lenbachhaus, Munich: Housed in the former villa of portrait painter Franz von Lenbach, this museum has a stunning and internationally renowned collection of modern art. In addition to works from the Blaue Reiter (Blue Rider) group, including Kandinsky, a rich collection of Gothic artwork is an added treat.

• Gutenberg Museum, Mainz: This museum is one of the most comprehensive tributes to printing and publishing anywhere in the world. The bulky presses, on which Johannes Gutenberg used movable type (42 lines per page), and two of the earliest Bibles ever printed are the primary displays here. There’s also a historical rundown on the science and technologies that have dominated the printing industry ever since.

• Museum Ludwig, Cologne: This is the home of one of the world’s largest collections of the works of Pablo Picasso, equaled only by the Picasso museums of Barcelona and Paris. The museum’s collection was beefed up when Irene Ludwig, widow of the late German art patron Peter Ludwig, donated 774 works of Picasso to the museum.

• Wallraf-Richartz Museum/Foundation Corboud, Cologne: The oldest museum in Cologne presents one of Germany’s grandest collections of art, covering the 14th to the 19th century. The collection of Gothic works alone is one of the finest in Europe, and the galleries are a virtual encyclopedia of art, from Flemish old masters to the French Impressionists.

• Kunsthalle, Hamburg: The leading art museum in northern Germany, the Kunsthalle is one of the most important in Europe, with some 3,000 paintings in its treasure-trove, along with some 400 sculptures. Some of its rare treasures date from the 14th century, including works by Bertram, the leading German master of the time. One section of the gallery also displays modern works, including pieces by such artists as Andy Warhol, Joseph Beuys, and Picasso.

The best Castles & Palaces

During the Middle Ages, Germany was divided into many intensely competitive feudal states and principalities. This unstable atmosphere encouraged the construction of fortified castles. As hostilities died down, architects began to design for comfort, style, and prestige, adding large windows, gilded stucco and plaster, frescoes, and formal gardens. As a result, Germany is full of all kinds and styles of Burg and Schloss (various names for castles and palaces).

• Sanssouci Palace, Potsdam: Friedrich the Great’s retreat, where he came to read, listen to music, and generally renew his allegiance to the principles of the Enlightenment, is Germany’s most successful blend of landscape and architecture. The more than 120 hectares (300 acres) of intricately landscaped gardens have enough pavilions, fountains, orangeries, and heroic statues to keep a visitor intrigued for days. The palace itself is an architectural highlight, approached by a terraced staircase of sublime beauty.

• Schloss Wartburg, Eisenach: Built between the 11th and 16th centuries, this was the headquarters of the Landgraves of Thuringia, a center of patronage for the Minnesinger (troubadours) of Germany, and a place of refuge for Martin Luther, who completed his translation of the Bible within its massive walls. Wagner used it as inspiration for the setting of Tannhäuser, and Johann Sebastian Bach and Goethe both visited. Today, from its position on a rocky hilltop, it’s a regional museum.

• Residenz, Würzburg: Built between 1720 and 1744 as the official residence of the powerful bishops of Würzburg, this is one of the most massive baroque palaces in Germany. It combines a Hofkirche (chapel) with gardens, a gallery of paintings, frescoes by Tiepolo, and enough decoration to satisfy the most demanding taste for ornamentation. Also within its showrooms are a worthy collection of ancient Greek and Roman artifacts and valuable paintings from the 14th to the 19th century.

• Neuschwanstein, near Füssen: Love it or hate it, this fairy-tale castle is actually a phenomenon worth seeing. Enter the romantic world of “Mad” King Ludwig II and his theater set designer, a world that further inspired the folks at Disneyland, or marvel at the tourist circus surrounding the 19th-century fantasy. Either way, the outstanding mountain scenery alone is worth the trip.

• Hohenschwangau Castle, near Füssen: Watching its bombastic younger brother from the opposite hill, this lesser-known residence built on 12th-century ruins merits just as much a visit. Finished in 1836, the eventual king Maximilian II lived here with his family, which included the young Ludwig II.

• Schloss Nymphenburg, Munich: This summer palace constructed between 1664 and 1674 features fine interiors on a modest scale that will leave you with enough energy to enjoy the splendid gardens and pavilions. An ideal place to experience the former glory of the long-lost Bavarian kingdom.

• Schloss Linderhof, near Oberammergau: This palace was built in the 1870s as a teenage indulgence by Ludwig II. Its architects created a whimsically eclectic fantasy, inspired by Italian baroque architecture. In the surrounding park, Moorish pavilions and Mediterranean cascades appear against Alpine vistas in combinations that are as startling as they are charming.

• Altes Schloss, Meersburg: Legend has it that this palace’s cornerstone was laid in 628 by Dagobert, king of the Franks. The palace remained a Catholic stronghold even during the Protestant Reformation, housing bishops who appreciated its 3m-thick (10-ft.) walls as a bulwark against the rising tempest around them. In the early 1800s, when its owners threatened to tear the palace down, a German Romantic, Baron Joseph von Lassberg, bought it and transformed it into a refuge for writers, poets, and painters. Although it remains mostly a private residence, you can visit many parts of the palace.

• Heidelberg Castle, Heidelberg: This castle originated as a Gothic-Renaissance masterpiece in the 1500s and was massively expanded as rival rulers competed for control of the Rhineland. After the French sacked and burned the town and the castle in 1689, it never regained its original glory. Today, the ruins brood in dignified severity from a position on a rocky hilltop high above the student revelry and taverns of the folkloric city below.

• Burg Eltz, Moselkern, near Cochem: Its multiple turrets and towers, which rise amid a thick forest near the Mosel River, evoke the chivalry and poetry of the Middle Ages. This is one of the best-preserved medieval castles in Germany.

The best Cathedrals

• Kaiserdom (Imperial Cathedral), Speyer: Partly because of their age, Romanesque churches are the most impressive symbols of early medieval Germany. This massive church, from 1030, has four bell towers; a cornerstone laid by one of Germany’s earliest kings, Konrad II; and an undeniable sense of the (anonymous) architect’s aesthetic links with the traditions of ancient Rome.

• Dom St. Peter, Worms: This church is a grand example of High Romanesque style, its oldest section dating from 1132. The Diet of Worms, held here in 1521, condemned the beliefs of the young Martin Luther and banished him to the far boundaries of the Holy Roman Empire.

• Kölner Dom, Cologne: Based on French Gothic models in Paris and Amiens, this cathedral was envisioned as one of the largest religious buildings in Christendom. It required 600 years to finish—work stopped for about 300 years (1560–1842), until the neo-Gothic fervor of the Romantic age fueled its completion. In 1880, it was inaugurated with appropriate pomp and circumstance in the presence of the German kaiser. Today, its vast russet-colored bulk towers are instantly recognizable from miles away.

• Dom (Cathedral), Aachen: Its size and the stonework dating from 1414 are deeply impressive, but even more so is the cathedral’s association with the earliest of German emperors, Charlemagne. He was crowned in an older building on this site in A.D. 800. The cathedral’s treasury contains gem-encrusted Christian artifacts from the 10th century, with heft and barbaric glitter that evoke pre-Christian Germania.

The most charming Small Villages

• Quedlinburg: Spared in part from the ravages of World War II, this town in the Harz mountains still evokes the Middle Ages with its 1,600 half-timbered buildings, more than any other town in the country. Named a UNESCO World Heritage Site, Quedlinburg is a gem of yesterday and was an imperial residence for 2 centuries. Wander the cobblestone streets of the Altstadt (Old Town) for a journey back in time.

• Meissen: Some 25km (16 miles) north of Dresden, this is a romantic little town built along the banks of the River Elbe. It’s celebrated for its porcelain, which carries a trademark of two crossed blue swords and is valued by collectors the world over. Even without its porcelain factory, the town merits a visit for its quiet charm, its old buildings, and its 15th-century castle.

• Rothenburg: If you have time for only one stop along the Romantic Road, make it Rothenburg ob der Tauber, which may be your only chance in life to see a still-intact medieval walled city. Rothenburg exists in a time capsule, though 40% of the town was destroyed during World War II. Luckily, locals quickly rebuilt their Altstadt in its former style to reclaim their glorious architectural past.

• Dinkelsbühl: If you have time for a second stop along the Romantic Road, try Dinkelsbühl. Though not as grand as the more celebrated Rothenburg, it has far fewer tourists and therefore retains more old-time charm.

• Mittenwald: This town has long been celebrated as the most beautiful in the Bavarian Alps, with magnificently decorated houses, painted facades and ornately carved gables. In the mid–17th century, it was known as “the Village of a Thousand Violins” because of the stringed instruments made here.

• Lindau: Dating from the 9th century, this former free imperial town of the Holy Roman Empire is like a fantasy of what a charming Bavarian lakeside village should look like, if only in the movies. But this garden “city,” under landmark protection, is for real. Lindau is enveloped by aquamarine waters, and one part of it is known as the Gartenstadt because of its luxuriant flowers and shrubs.

• Rüdesheim: The Rhine Valley’s most popular wine town is set along the edge of the mighty river. Rüdesheim is known for its half-timbered buildings and its Drosselgasse (Thrush Lane), a narrow cobblestone lane stretching for 180m (600 ft.) and lined with wine taverns and cozy restaurants.

• Cochem: If you’re seeking an idyllic medieval riverside town during your “grape tour” of the Mosel River valley, make it Cochem, famous for its towering castle, dating from 1027. On the left bank of the Mosel, Cochem lies in a picture-postcard setting of vineyards. Little inns serving a regional cuisine along with plenty of Mosel wine make Cochem a highly desirable overnight stop and a nice alternative to the more commercial centers found along the nearby Rhine.

The best Driving Tours

The appeal of the open road is a prominent part of German culture. Some of the best drives include the following:

• The Romantic Road: This well-traveled 350km (220 mile) route, which stretches between Würzburg and Füssen at the foot of the Bavarian Alps, is dotted with lovely medieval towns.

• The Fairy-Tale Road: The colorful characters of the Brothers Grimm live again along this 595km (370-mile) stretch, beginning in the little town of Hanau and stretching all the way north to Bremen. This is one of the great motor trips of Germany for those who thrilled to those nursery-room favorites.

• Alpine Road: Scenic majesty and architectural charm combine for an unforgettable experience on this 480km (300-mile) road through the foothills of the Bavarian Alps. See “Exploring the Region by Car.”

• Upper Black Forest: Fairy tales always seem more believable when you’re in the Black Forest, and the twisting secondary roads that connect Freiburg with Lake Titisee pass through lots of charming scenery and architecture. See the box “An Excursion to the Upper Black Forest.”

• Mosel Valley: The road along this Rhine tributary passes by some of the country’s most famous vineyards. At least a half-dozen of the cities en route are worth visiting as well.

The best Walks

• The Royal Castle Walk: For one of the grandest panoramas in all of the Alps (in any country), hike up to the Marienbrücke, the bridge that spans the Pöllat Gorge behind Neuschwanstein Castle. From there, if you’re up to it, you can continue uphill for about an hour for an amazing view of “Mad” King Ludwig’s fantasy castle.

• Partnachklamm: One of the most dramatic walks in all of the Bavarian Alps starts from the great winter sports resort of Garmisch-Partenkirchen. A signposted trail leads to the dramatic Partnachklamm Gorge. Carved from solid rock, the route passes two panoramic bottlenecks amid the thunder of falling water and clouds of spray.

• Mainau Island: A walk across the footbridge to Mainau, in Lake Constance, is like a visit to a tropical country. Mainau is filled with exotic plants collected by the Baden princes and members of the Royal House of Sweden. Tropical brushwood and other botanical wonders still thrive in this mild climate. You’ll hardly believe you’re in Germany.

• Cochem: Reichsburg Cochem (Cochem Castle), which towers over the little town of the same name, can be reached on foot in about 15 minutes from the town’s Marktplatz. Although hardly an Alpine climb, this walk is one of the most rewarding you’ll find in Germany, with panoramas in all directions.

The best Biking

• Munich by Bike: You see so many locals riding bikes that you might think Munich is the biking capital of Germany. If you’d like to join the fun, pick up a copy of the pamphlet Rad-Touren für unsere Gäste (Bike-Riding for Our Guests) at the tourist office. It outlines itineraries for touring Munich by bike.

• Lake Constance: Rent a bike at the train station in the former imperial town of Lindau, and set out in any direction to enjoy the views of this beautiful lake. The Lindau tourist office will provide a map and suggestions for the best routes to follow.

• The Neckar Valley Cycle Path: This signposted path allows you to follow the source of the Neckar, beginning in Villingen-Schwenningen and going all the way to the confluence of the Rhine at Mannheim. Instead of going the entire way, many visitors prefer to pick up a bicycle in Heidelberg and cycle along the riverbanks until they find a good spot for a picnic. See “Exploring on Two Wheels.”

• Lüneburg Heath: This wild heath in northern Germany is one of the country’s major natural attractions. (Some of Germany’s greatest poets have waxed rhapsodic about this shrub-covered land.) Rent a bike, pick up a map at the Lüneburg tourist office, and set out on your adventure. See “The Lüneburg Heath.”

The best Spas

• Bad Reichenhall: Many spa lovers head for this remote corner of Bavaria to “take the waters.” Europe’s largest saline source was first tapped in pre-Christian times and the place has a definite 19th-century aura. And though some of the hotels in the town are better than others, all have equal access to the spa and lie about a 5-minute walk away.

• Baden-Baden: There’s no better spa in all of Germany, and certainly none more fashionable or famous—it’s also site of the country’s most celebrated casino. Baden-Baden’s spa’s been going strong since the leisure class of the 19th century discovered its healing waters, although the Roman legions of Emperor Caracalla had discovered the springs long before that. As at Bad Reichenhall, all hotels, no matter the price range, have equal access to the spa.

• Wiesbaden: One of Germany’s oldest cities, Wiesbaden attracted Roman legions to its hot springs, and lures today’s fashionable traveler as well. It’s not as chic as Baden-Baden, but Wiesbaden has one of Germany’s most elegant casinos and concert halls, along with two gourmet restaurants. In summer, the beer garden at the Kurhaus is one of the liveliest along the Rhine. See “Side Trips from Frankfurt”.

• Bad Homburg: Bad Homburg lies at the foot of the Taunus Hills in a setting of medieval castles and luxuriant forests. There are more than 31 fountains in the town’s Kurpark. The Bad Homburg Palace was once the summer residence of Prussian kings. See “Side Trips from Frankfurt”.

The best Luxury Hotels

German efficiency and cleanliness are legendary, so it’s not surprising that you can choose from a great number of well-managed hotels.

• Grand Hotel Esplanade, Berlin (www.esplanade.de; 866/597-8341 in the U.S., or 030/254788255): This strikingly contemporary hotel near several foreign embassies is one of the most prestigious in the German capital. With its collection of modern art, its spacious, cheerfully decorated rooms, and its first-class service, it is a prime address for the luxury minded.

• The Regent, Berlin (www.theregentberlin.com; 888/201-1806 in the U.S., or 030/20338): One of Germany’s great luxury hotels, the Regent is all about opulence, superb service, and comfort. It’s discreet, tasteful, reliable, and a brilliant addition to the roster of luxury leaders in Germany’s capital.

• Hotel Elephant, Weimar (www.starwoodhotels.com; 03643/8020): This is one of Germany’s most interesting hotels because of its age (over 300 years), its name, its 50-year survival in Germany’s eastern zone, and its associations with such luminaries as Schiller, Liszt, and Goethe. Today, it’s a cost-conscious treasure chest of German history.

• Eisenhut, Rothenburg ob der Tauber (www.eisenhut.com; 09861/7050): This hotel’s 16th-century walls and valuable collection of antiques enhance the appeal of the most authentic Renaissance town in Germany.

• Hotel Vier Jahreszeiten Kempinski München, Munich (www.kempinski.com; 800/426-3135 in the U.S., or 089/21250): Munich’s most prestigious choice offers elegance and luxury. The wealthy and titled have checked in here for more than a century, enjoying the ambience, the antiques, the style, and the grace.

• Bayerischer Hof & Palais Montgelas, Munich (www.bayerischerhof.de; 089/21200): This deluxe hotel and 17th-century Bavarian palace together form Munich’s answer to New York’s Waldorf-Astoria. This is the only hotel in Munich to provide serious competition for the Kempinski Hotel.

• Der Kleine Prinz, Baden-Baden (www.derkleineprinz.de; 07221/346600): This hotel’s director once helped manage the New York Hilton and the Waldorf-Astoria. Today, he and his wife run a century-old pair of neobaroque houses in the heart of Germany’s most elegant resort, Baden-Baden. Inspired by Saint-Exupéry’s The Little Prince this stands as one of the most romantic of Germany’s many romantic hotels.

• Krone Assmannshausen, Rüdesheim-Assmannshausen (www.hotel-krone.com; 06722/4030): Sprawling along the banks of the Rhine in an oversize, grangelike, gingerbread-laden fantasy, this hotel has witnessed the arrival of many important Germans (including Goethe) in its 400 years. It also contains one of the best traditional restaurants in town.

• Fürstenhof Celle, Celle (www1.fuerstenhof.de; 05141/2010): This 17th-century manor, enlarged with half-timbered wings, stands out even in a town legendary for its medieval and Renaissance buildings. There’s a cozy bar in the medieval cellar and one of the best dining rooms in Lower Saxony.

• Fairmont Hotel Vier Jahreszeiten, Hamburg (www.fairmont.com/hamburg; 888/425-8227 in the U.S. and Canada, or 040/34940): Its dignified interior is as opulent as its 19th-century facade. This hotel’s appeal is correctly aristocratic, but it has a touch of the saltwater zestiness that makes Hamburg a great city.

The best Small Inns & Hotels

• Art’otel, Berlin (www.artotels.com; 030/884470): This hotel in the heart of Berlin is chic, discreet, and unique. The swirling action of the Ku’Damm lies right outside the door, but inside, the decor is soothing and serene, the work of some of the Continent’s top designers.

• Altstadt-Hotel, Passau (www.altstadt-hotel.de; 0851/3370): This inexpensive hotel stands at the convergence of three rivers—the Danube, the Ilz, and the Inn. But the hotel offers more than river views—it’s comfortably and traditionally furnished, and its regional cuisine and convivial pub attract the locals.

• Gästehaus Englischer Garten, Munich (www.hotelenglischergarten.de; 089/3839410): This is an oasis of charm and tranquillity, close to the Englischer Garten, where buffed Munich lies out nude in the sun. The furnishings are in an old-fashioned Bavarian style, but the comfort level is first-rate.

• Parkhotel Atlantic Schlosshotel, Heidelberg (www.parkhotel-atlantic.de; 06221/60420): This 24-room inn is on the wooded outskirts of Heidelberg, near the famous castle. Every room is comfortable and convenient, and in the afternoon you can go for long walks along the woodland trails surrounding the property.

• Antik-Hotel Bristol, Cologne (www.antik-hotel-bristol.de; 0221/120195): In the heart of this cathedral city along the Rhine, this unique hotel is filled with antiques, both country rustic and town-house elegant, making the atmosphere both authentic and inviting.

The best Restaurants

• Die Quadriga, Berlin ( 030/214050;www.brandenburger-hof.com): Critics hail this gastronomic wonder in the Hotel Brandenburger Hof as Berlin’s finest dining choice. Celebrated for its modern Continental cuisine, it’s where the president of Germany takes his favorite guests when he wants to “show off.” While seated in a 1904 chair designed by Frank Lloyd Wright, you can enjoy food that is, in a word, sublime.

• Essigbrätlein, Nürnberg ( 0911/225131): Food critics single this out as the best dining spot in Nürnberg, and we heartily agree. Its upscale Franconian and Continental cuisine is reason enough to visit the city.

• Weinhaus Zum Stachel, Würzburg ( 0931/52770;www.weinhaus-stachel.de): This is the oldest (ca. 1413) wine house in a town loaded with them. Food is good, portions are copious, the wine flows, and everyone has a wonderful time. This is old-time Deutschland at its most appealing.

• Tantris, Munich ( 089/3619590;www.tantris.de): Savvy German food critics have honored Tantris’s Hans Haas as the country’s top chef. He definitely serves some of the finest and most innovative food in Bavaria.

• Hanse Stube, Cologne ( 0221/2701;www.excelsiorhotelernst.com): Located in a landmark hotel, this restaurant lies on the same square as the fabled Rhineland cathedral. French cuisine in Cologne doesn’t get any better than this—the chefs have a prodigious talent for preparing food using only the finest and freshest ingredients.

• Victorian Restaurant, Düsseldorf ( 0211/865500;www.restaurant-victorian.de): Regulars know what a treasure they have in this restaurant: Market-fresh ingredients and a steady hand in the kitchen produce award-winning traditional and modern food.

• Waldhotel Sonnora, outside Bernkastel-Kues ( 06578/406;www.hotel-sonnora.de): In the Mosel Valley, the Waldhotel Sonnora is one of the most justifiably acclaimed restaurants in the country. Be sure to make a reservation as far in advance as possible and prepare yourself for a gastronomic adventure in Continental cuisine. Herr Thieltges, the chef, told us, “We don’t just serve dishes—rather, culinary masterpieces.” We agree.

• Fischereihafen Restaurant, Altona, near Hamburg ( 040/381816;www.fischereihafenrestaurant.de): Patrons from Tina Turner to Helmut Kohl have pronounced the food here delightful. From a window seat, you can overlook the boats that might have hauled in your sole, eel, turbot, herring, or flounder from the seas that day.

The best Beer Halls & Taverns

• Auerbachs Keller, Leipzig ( 0341/216100;auerbachs-keller-leipzig.de): The most famous tavern in eastern Germany, this is where Goethe staged the debate between Faust and Mephistopheles. The tavern dates from 1530 and has a series of murals evoking the Faust legend.

• Augustiner Bräustuben, Munich ( 089/5022569;www.braeustuben.de): Although many raid the famous Hofbräuhaus (see below), this authentic tavern at the backdoor of the Augustiner brewery combines the Bavarian camaraderie and flavorful fare without the tourist circus. It occupies the former horse stalls, but don’t fret—the odor has long since dissipated. Best of all, they fill the massive Mass glasses for one of the lowest prices in town.

* Hofbräuhaus, Munich ( 089/221676;www.hofbraeuhaus.de): Needing no introduction, the Hofbräuhaus can stake the claim as the world’s most famous beer hall, packing in up to 4,500 beer drinkers on any given night. Music from live bands and huge mugs of beer served at wooden tables combine to produce the best of Bavarian nighttime fun.

• Zum Roten Ochsen, Heidelberg ( 06221/20977;www.roterochsen.de): Over the years, “The Red Ox” has drawn beer drinkers from Mark Twain to Bismarck. Students have been getting plastered here since 1703, and the tradition continues to this day.

• Ratskeller, Bremen ( 0421/321676;ratskeller-bremen.de): This is one of the most celebrated Ratskellers in Germany. A tradition for decades, it serves top-notch German and international food and some of the best suds along the Rhineland, as well as one of the longest lists of vintage wines from the country’s vineyards.

The best Shopping

The best way to approach shopping here is to make it a part of your overall experience and not an end unto itself. Though Berlin and Munich are the major shopping centers in Germany, the rest of the country is okay—neither a shopper’s mecca nor the bargain basement of Europe. Still, you can find some good buys here.

• Porcelain: For centuries, Germany has been known for the quality of its porcelain. Names such as KPM, Rosenthal, and Meissen are household words. KPM, for example, has been a Berlin tradition for more than 2 centuries.

• Handicrafts: In the Bavarian Alps, woodcarvers still carry on their time-honored tradition. The best place to purchase woodcarvings is in the Alpine village of Oberammergau.

• Timepieces: Corny though they may be, carved Black Forest cuckoo clocks remain an enduring favorite.

• Cutlery: WMF (Württembergische-Metalwaren-Fabrik) and J. A. Henckels are two of the country’s premier producers of fine cutlery. Their knives are expensive, but longtime users say they last forever. Both WMF and Henckels stores are found all over Germany.

Germany in Depth

A unified, wealthy, industrial yet beautiful Germany awaits you and promises some of the most intriguing travel experiences in Europe.

Many of its treasures were lost in World War II, but much remains and has been restored. Natural scenery, particularly in the Black Forest, the Mosel Valley, the Harz Mountains, and the Bavarian Alps, is a potent lure.

For those who want to see history in the making, we’d recommend visiting Potsdam, Leipzig, Dresden, Meissen, and Weimar, all centers of East Germany before German unification in October 1990. Keep in mind, however, that although political developments have been fast paced, the infrastructure of the five new states cannot change overnight, and living standards there are still different from those in (the former) West Germany.

Germany is one of the most modern and, at the same time, the most traditional of countries. Its advanced technology and industry are the envy of the rest of the world. Here you’ll likely meet people of learning and sophistication, boasting a long cultural heritage and devotion to music and the arts.

This guide is meant to help you decide where to go in Germany and how best to enjoy its charms, but ultimately the most gratifying rewards will be your own serendipitous discoveries—drinking beer in a yard shaded by chestnut trees, picnicking in a Bavarian meadow, or spending time chatting with a winemaker in the Mosel Valley. You will surely remember experiences like these for years to come.

Germany Today

In late September 2009, Chancellor Angela Merkel swept to reelection, making her one of the longest-serving leaders among Europe’s major powers. Her Christian Democrats formed a new center-right government, triumphing over Social Democrats, who fared badly in the election.

In a union with the probusiness Free Democrats, Merkel strengthened her hand in Germany, and in the next year or so may begin to enact the kind of liberalizing economic plans she proposed when she first ran for chancellor.

Her victory was muted by Germany’s rising budget deficits as a result of the global economic crisis.

As an example of the changing times, Ms. Merkel, Germany’s first female chancellor, is joined by the first openly gay vice-chancellor and foreign minister, Guido Westerwelle, who shepherded his Free Democrats to their strongest showing ever. All this occurring in a country that a few decades ago sent homosexuals to the concentration camps and the gas chambers, along with Jews and Gypsies.

It is still ranked low on the threat of terrorism in spite of memories of the 1972 Munich Massacre at the Olympic Games, in which 11 Jewish athletes were killed.

Germany has about 84 million citizens, making it the most densely populated of the nations in the E.U. The capital, Berlin, has the largest population, with some 3.5 million residents, trailed by Hamburg and Munich.

Germany today remains split between Protestantism and Catholicism, and it is not homogeneous, as each year it greets an influx of non-German immigrants.

Turks form the largest group of immigrants (2.3 million), followed by Sorbs (about 60,000) and even some 50,000 Dane, who live in Schleswig-Holstein near the Danish border.

In spite of a gloomy economy, Germany still remains the third-largest economy in the world, with exports counting for 40% of its GDP.

Although East and West Germany long ago united as the Berlin Wall came tumbling down, conflicts remain. Westerners often express resentment at having to spend so many of their euros on propping up the less affluent Easterners, who lived for so long under Communist rule.

The Ossis, as Easterners are known in Germany, often claim that they feel like poor cousins come to live with a far more affluent family, the Wessis (those from the former West Germany).

The friends you’re likely to meet in Germany (and you’re likely to meet many) will probably be well educated and will possess linguistic skills (almost certainly including English) that, by the standards of the rest of the world, particularly the United States, are astonishing. Many younger Germans are likely to be guided by a sense of idealism, even zeal, for ecological and other causes.

Germans, like Americans, are worried about job security. The greatest fear sweeping across Germany today is of “job hemorrhage.” German companies are finding that more and more of their manufacturing plants and jobs can be farmed out to other locations, including, ironically enough, Alabama and South Carolina, where wages and benefits for workers at a BMW plant are about 30% less than in Germany. In the Czech Republic, just across the border, wages are equivalent to 10% of those paid in Germany, for workers nearly as well qualified.

But in spite of its problems, a modern Germany, centered around Berlin, continues to remain at the epicenter of European culture and a continuing powerhouse in the E.U.

Looking Back: German History

Note About Maps

This guide contains dozens of maps of varying sizes and complexity. If you find it hard to read a map on your device, use the zoom function to enlarge. You can also download and/or printout PDFs of all of the maps in this guide. Go to www.frommers.com/go/ebookmaps and click on the title of your guide.

Germany’s Historic Borders

Early Days

“A large build, very strong in the attack, but not suitable to the same extent for heavy work” was how Tacitus, the Roman historian, described the Teutons in A.D. 60. The Romans had been trying to push the borders of their empire up to the Rhineland, with mixed success, since 9 B.C., but the Teutonic tribes fought back ferociously. The first recognized German national hero was Arminius, who led his tribe (the Cherusci) in defeating three Roman legions near modern-day Bielefeld in A.D. 9.

After the deterioration of the Roman Empire, the Franks ruled much of what we now know as Germany. In 800, a Frankish king, Charlemagne, extended the Carolingian Empire from the Pyrenees to Saxony and Bavaria. His rule marks the high point of cultural and political development of that period. He divided the empire into counties, each with an administrator directly responsible to him, and promoted education, scholarship, and the revival of Greek and Roman culture.

The Holy Roman Empire

After Charlemagne’s death, the Carolingian Empire fell apart. In 843, the Treaty of Verdun granted the empire’s eastern territory to Louis the German, marking the beginning of German history.

In 962, the pope recognized Otto I as emperor of what was later called the Holy Roman Empire. This new political entity was formed both to impose unity on the European political world and to create a bulwark against the invasion of non-Christian tribes. It claimed direct links to the grandeur of ancient Rome and to the more contemporary might of the church.

Unity, however, did not prevail. The empire splintered into a bickering alliance of dukedoms, bishoprics, and principalities. The emperor’s authority was often dependent on German nobles and the pope. A capital city that could have served as a center of power was never established—the monarch simply moved from one city to another, mustering an army and collecting revenue wherever he could—so the possibilities for dynastic intrigues were endless. In subsequent jockeying, the church itself was a voracious competitor for power. This power struggle broke out into open conflict in 1076, when Pope Gregory VII excommunicated the emperor, Henry IV, who was forced to stand barefoot in the snow outside Canossa, humiliated, awaiting a repeal.

To strengthen their position as the Holy Roman Empire declined, the emperors turned to alliances with the wealthy, independent trading ports to the north and east, under the federation of the Hanseatic League. Such German cities as Hamburg, Lübeck, and Bremen grew in both economic and political power. Eventually the league controlled trade as far as Novgorod in Russia.

The Reformation & the Religious Wars

When an Augustinian monk, Martin Luther, nailed his theological and political complaints to a church door in Wittenberg in 1517, he set off a political and religious wildfire that spread across the landscape of Europe. The fragmented political situation in Germany played into Luther’s hands: For every prince who condemned him, he found one to protect him. Luther’s Reformation fanned the flames of Germany’s political factions. A new conflict between Catholics and Protestants set the stage for the devastation of the Thirty Years’ War (1618–48), which entrenched the divided sensibilities of the splintered nation.

The only powerful German state to emerge from these conflicts was Prussia, a tiny northeast kingdom on the Baltic Sea. The rise of Prussian power continued through the 18th century until, led by a soldier and patron of the Enlightenment, Friedrich (Frederick) the Great, Prussia became a major kingdom, with Berlin as its capital.

Napoleon Arrives

After the French Revolution, Napoleon and his new political ideas swept across Europe. The left bank of the Rhine came under French control. Under these pressures, the Holy Roman Empire officially came to an end in 1806. Around the same time, Napoleon’s armies invaded Prussia, making it, for a brief time, a part of the French Empire. But Napoleon was defeated at Leipzig in 1813; 2 years later, Britain and Prussia crushed him at the Battle of Waterloo.

Bismarck & Prussia

The Congress of Vienna (1814–15) redrew the map of Germany after Napoleon’s defeat, giving more territory to Prussia but making Austria the leader in a German Confederation. During this time, there was a rising spirit of nationalism, exploited to good effect by Prince Otto von Bismarck when he became Prussia’s prime minister in 1862. Prussia triumphed in the Austro-Prussian War of 1866, and after the subsequent Franco-Prussian War (1870–71), when Prussia laid siege to Paris, Bismarck succeeded in his goal of unification. Wilhelm I was made emperor of all Germany in 1871, and a strong, unified Germany at last took shape. Under Bismarck’s leadership, Germany adopted an advanced social welfare system and brought its military and industrial production, as well as technical and scientific achievements, to new heights.

The Prussians

Take, for instance, the Prussians: they are saints when compared with the French. They have every sort of excellence; they are honest, sober, hardworking, well instructed, brave, good sons, husbands, and fathers and yet . . . all with whom I have been thrown were proud as Scotchmen, cold as New Englanders, and touchy as only Prussians can be.

—Henry Labouchere, 1871

World War I

By 1907, Europe was divided into two camps: the Triple Alliance (Germany, Austria-Hungary, and Italy) and the Triple Entente (France, Great Britain, and Russia). The match that ignited the powder keg was struck at Sarajevo in 1914, with the assassination of Archduke Franz Ferdinand, heir to the Austro-Hungarian Empire. The subsequent German invasion of France launched the bloodiest war the world had ever seen. A new and particularly demoralizing form of battle, “trench warfare,” produced staggering casualties. On August 8, 1918, the Allies penetrated German lines, and the German high command realized the situation was hopeless.

To get more favorable treatment from the Allies, the Germans voluntarily declared a parliamentary democracy, ending the reign of the kaiser. Despite that concession, in 1918 Germany was forced to sign the humiliating Treaty of Versailles, which demanded the surrender of strategic territories, including Alsace-Lorraine, just west of the Rhine. The Allies—especially the French—also demanded huge monetary reparations.

Weimar Republic

In 1919, the National Assembly met in Weimar to draw up a new constitution, hailed at the time as the most progressive in the world. But in defeated and humiliated postwar Germany, extremists from both the left and the right launched savage attacks against the inexperienced and idealistic government. Enormous payments demanded by the Allies crippled the German economy. When Germany couldn’t make reparations, France retaliated by occupying the Ruhr, one of Germany’s most valuable industrial resources. Inflation destroyed what was left of the German economy.

Life is a Cabaret

by George McDonald

Cabaret existed in Germany long before World War I, and even in its early days it strained against the boundaries of censorship and the prevailing moral climate. But the form really came into its own during the years that followed defeat in the war. During the 1920s and 30s, the chaos of the Weimar Republic, hyperinflation and economic meltdown, street battles between militias of right and left, and the steady rise of the anti-Semitic Nazi Party formed the backdrop to a collapse of traditional values. Live it up while you can and spend money while you have it was the new morality. Cabaret provided entertainment with a satirical and political bent that suited the mood and circumstances of the times, influenced by cutting-edge artistic and social movements such as Dadaism, social expressionism, and Neue Sachlichkeit (new objectivity).

Berlin between the wars generally gets the historical kudos when it comes to cabaret, but in fact the capital was a long way behind pre-war Munich in taking to the genre. German Kabarett emerged as different from original French form in that it was nearly always a vehicle for political satire. In clubs like Die Elf Scharfrichter (The Eleven Executioners), founded in 1901 in the Schwabing district, Munich’s bohemians, socialists, progressives, and avant-gardistes of all stripes got together to gripe and poke fun at the smug, stultifyingly bourgeois society in which they lived.

Life in between-the-wars Berlin inspired writers like, among others, Christopher Isherwood, who lived in the city from 1929 to 1933. He wrote The Berlin Stories (1946), comprising two novellas—Good-Bye to Berlin and Mr. Norris Changes Trains—based in part on his experiences. The first of the two stories became the source of the stage and film versions of Cabaret.

“Old chums” and many more fans are still rolling up to the louche cabaret depicted in the modern Broadway show Cabaret, first performed in 1966 and revived at regular intervals ever since, and in the Hollywood movie based on the show, Cabaret (1972), directed by Bob Fosse and starring Liza Minnelli and Joel Grey.

Famous Period Cabarets

Die Katakombe Comedian Werner Finck (1902–78) found “The Catacombs” on Bellevuestrasse, just off Potsdamer Platz, in Berlin in 1929. His subtle jibes at Brownshirts, the Gestapo, and other “pillars” of the Nazi establishment made him popular—and brought secret policemen into the audience to “take notes.” Nazi propaganda minister Joseph Goebbels ordered the cabaret closed in 1935, and Finck spent 6 weeks in a concentration camp before enlisting in the German army.

Kabarett der Komiker Better known as Kadeko, the Cabaret of Comics took a less risky approach than Die Katakombe in its choice of material. A well-known Kadeko Conferencier (Master of Ceremonies), Fritz Grunbaum, frequently employed his acid wit on his own audiences, ribbing them for, among other things, their disgusting eating habits.

Wien-München From 1915 to 1916, the “Vienna-Munich” cabaret in Munich had as its director the comic actor Karl Valentin, who has been dubbed “the German Chaplin.” In the 1930s, Valentin made two failed attempts to get his Panoptikum für Gruseliges und Nonsens (Panopticon for Horror and Nonsense) exhibit in Munich off the ground.

Living the Revival

Popular among visitors to Berlin, Munich, Frankfurt, Dresden, and other German towns is the kind of nightspot depicted in the musical Cabaret, with floor-show patter and acts that satirize the political and social scene, though the satire is less biting than it was during the time of the Weimar Republic. Some of today’s cabaret shows may remind you of Broadway blockbusters, without much of the intimacy of the smoky, trenchant cellar revues of the 1920s and early 1930s.

Playlist

• Berlin; Marlene Dietrich.

• Berlin Cabaret Songs; Ute Lemper, Mischa Spoliansky.

• Kurt Weill’s The Seven Deadly Sins & Berlin Theatre Songs; Lotte Lenya.

• Songs of the Berlin Cabaret 1920–29; Friedrich Hollaender, Jody Karin Appelbaum, Marc-André Hamelin.

The Rise of Nazism

This was just the right climate for the rise of Adolf Hitler and the Nazi Party. The Nazis believed in the superiority of the Aryan race and blamed non-Aryans, particularly Jews, for Germany’s woes. At first Hitler’s anti-Semitic, nationalist ideas failed to gain popular support, even with right-wingers. Nazi membership in the Reichstag (parliament) dropped from 25 in 1925 to only a dozen following the elections of 1928.

In 1932, Hitler lost the electoral race for president against the compromise candidate of the democratic parties, war hero Paul von Hindenburg. Nevertheless, Hitler’s power increased, and on January 30, 1933, Hindenburg submitted to right-wing pressure and appointed Hitler chancellor. Upon Hindenburg’s death in 1934, Hitler declared himself Führer (leader) of the Third Reich, a new German empire. Protected by hastily drafted laws and regulations, he made his power absolute.

On June 30, 1934, Hitler disposed of any opposing elements in his own party in the “Night of Long Knives,” when hundreds were massacred, including Ernst Röhm, chief of his notorious Brownshirts. Heinrich Himmler’s black-shirted Schutzstaffel (SS) became a powerful political force. Surrounded by adoring fans (or, at best, passive witnesses), Hitler now viewed his empire as a worthy successor to those of Charlemagne and Bismarck.

In 1936, Hitler remilitarized the Rhineland and signed agreements with Japan and fascist Italy, forming the Axis alliance. In 1938, he enforced the Anschluss (annexation) of Austria and marched triumphantly into the country of his birth, and he occupied the German-speaking Sudetenland in Czechoslovakia, an act that other western powers could not summon the will to oppose.

The horrors of unchecked Nazi rule lasted until 1945. The Gestapo, or secret police, launched one of the most notorious reigns of terror in history. Anyone whom the Nazis considered enemies or simply undesirables—which included Communists, Social Democrats, homosexuals, political dissidents, Gypsies, and many others—was persecuted. Jews were disenfranchised, terrorized, and forced into ghettos and concentration camps.

World War II

In late August 1939, Hitler signed a nonaggression pact with the Soviet Union that gave him free rein to launch an invasion of Poland, which he did on September 1. France and Britain, honoring their agreements with Poland, declared war on Germany. Germany scored early victories, and in one of the most stunning campaigns of the 20th century, invaded and occupied France in June 1940. In 1941, Hitler turned on the Soviet Union.

Meeting in the Berlin suburb of Wannsee in 1942, the Nazi leadership formulated the implementation of the “final solution” to the “Jewish question,” the systematic extermination of millions of Jews. The mass murders of homosexuals, Gypsies, Communists, Slavs, and other “undesirables” were less systematic but also numbered in the millions.

Following Japan’s attack on Pearl Harbor, Germany declared war on the United States on December 11, 1941. But after defeats in north Africa in 1942 and at Stalingrad in 1943, the recurrent theme became one of Nazi retreat. The D-day landings along the coast of Normandy on June 6, 1944, began the steady advance of the Allied armies from the west, while Soviet armies relentlessly marched toward Berlin from the east. Hitler committed suicide in Berlin in April 1945. His country, along with much of Europe, lay in ruins.

Division of Germany

The Berlin Wall

At war’s end, Germany and its capital were divided. The nation shrank in size, losing long-held territories (among them East Prussia and Upper Silesia). The United States, Great Britain, France, and the Soviet Union divided the country into four zones of occupation. Berlin, in the heart of the Soviet district, was also divided among the four powers. In the late 1940s, the Soviet Union tried to cut off Allied access to Berlin, but a massive U.S.-sponsored airlift into the city thwarted the effort. In 1949, the Soviets established the German Democratic Republic (GDR). In response, the Federal Republic of Germany was established in the American, British, and French zones. In 1961, the GDR sealed off its borders and erected the Berlin Wall, a stark symbol of the Cold War.

Throughout the 1960s, the financial world buzzed with the talk of an economic miracle in Germany. Led by Ludwig Erhard, the economist, this miracle was called Wirtschaftswunder, and it saw West Germany rise to become the fourth-largest economy in the world.

This era of prosperity also saw the rise of a young German leader, Willy Brandt. Along with his Social-Liberal Coalition, Brandt, as chancellor, brought about long-overdue reform, an overhaul of education, and much improvement in industrial relations. His controversial Ostpolitik (Eastern Policy) improved relations with Soviet-dominated East Germany and other Communist countries to the east of Germany. His efforts in normalizing relations with the GDR brought Brandt the Nobel Prize of 1971.

The 1972 Summer Olympic Games were meant to show the entire world the bold new face of a radically rebuilt Munich. However, the terrorist attack on and murder of 11 Israeli athletes revived memories of the recent past.

Helmut Schmidt became chancellor in 1974, as West Germany continued to amaze the world with its economic muscle. Problems such as mounting unemployment remained, however, and in 1982, Helmut Kohl became the new German leader, pursuing welfare cuts, a tight-fisted money policy, and military cooperation with the U.S. The Kohl era saw the Green Party rise as a political force, with its goals of disarmament and protecting a fragile environment.

Fall of the Wall & Unification

The year 1989 was one of change and turmoil. In the wake of the collapse of Communist power across eastern Europe, the Berlin Wall also fell. The following year was perhaps the most significant in postwar German history. The two German nations announced economic unification in July, followed by total unification—with its thousands of inherent problems and headaches—on October 3, 1990. In 1991, Parliament voted to quit Bonn, seat of the West German government, and reestablish the once-mighty capital of Berlin.

After the first heady period of reunification, disillusionment set in, especially in eastern Germany, which was riddled with unemployment and unrealized expectations. Resentment against immigrant workers led to some violent neo-Nazi marches, bombings, and physical assaults. However, most Germans rose up to condemn the ultrarightists and the sporadic violence.

Psychological and emotional differences between the two zones were almost overwhelming, as were the vast disparities in industrial development. As the influential newspaper Frankfurter Rundschau editorialized, “The terms of east and west are not so much geographical expressions as they are descriptions of states of mind.”

Modern Germany

As the 21st century began, Germany, despite the enormous costs of reunification, remained an economic powerhouse in Europe. As a member of the European Union (E.U.), NATO, and the G8 group of the world’s industrial powers, Germany’s influence extends throughout Europe and across the globe.

Moving deeper into the 21st century, Berlin has become the center of the Continent. Of the three major European powers, including France and Great Britain, Germany appears to be the most dynamic. In fact, of all E.U. members, Germany most actively pursued the abandonment of national currencies, such as its own historic deutsche mark, and the adoption of the euro as the standard unit of currency for all E.U. countries. Other countries, such as Great Britain, though a member of the E.U., still hold back. German economists continue to hope that the adoption of a single currency for Europe will lead to prosperity for all in a future “United States of Europe.”

Homosexuals, once persecuted by the Nazis and sent to death camps along with Jews and Gypsies, moved significantly forward in postmillennium Germany. In 2001, in spite of fierce opposition from some conservatives, same-sex partners won legal status in Germany. The law, announced in Germany’s unofficial gay capital of Berlin, allows gay couples to register their unions at government offices and requires a court decision for divorce. Same-sex couples also receive the inheritance and health-insurance rights given married spouses.

In the aftermath of World War II, Germany had become an economic giant but remained a military midget. Because of its aggression in Hitler’s war, Germany appeared reluctant to make a strong show of military force anywhere in the world. But in 2001, Chancellor Gerhard Schröder announced a major change in military policy in which Germany would pursue a “more muscular policy.” He pronounced as “irrevocably passed” the day when Germany would be economically powerful but militarily passive. Schröder stated that now that Germany was reunited, it had to take on more responsibilities in the international community. As proof of his stated goal, Germany sent troops to aid the United States in its military strikes against terrorist bases in Taliban-controlled Afghanistan following the terrorist attacks against the United States on September 11, 2001.

But support for U.S. policies abruptly ended in 2003, when Chancellor Schröder took a stance against America’s war with Iraq. While this course proved politically rewarding in Germany, where most voters opposed U.S. involvement, it created a sharp rift with Washington, D.C., and irritated President George W. Bush. Schröder’s opposition to the war led to the lowest point in German-American relations since World War II. Since then, relations have been more cordial. In 2004 Schröder and Bush issued a joint statement on “The German-American Alliance for the 21st Century.” Schröder also attended the funeral of President Reagan as well as the 60th anniversary of the commemoration of the Allied D-day invasion of Normandy.

In a surprise development in 2005, conservative Angela Merkel became the first woman to govern modern Germany and the country’s first leader to grow up under communism in the Soviet-occupied East. Her conservatives finished just 1 percentage point ahead of Chancellor Gerhard Schröder’s center-left Social Democrats, with neither party getting a majority.

Merkel campaigned on pledges to shake up Germany’s highly regulated labor market and get the stagnant economy going again. She also promised to reinvigorate relations with the U.S. Merkel faced massive problems, including unemployment. Like the United States, the German economy remained strong but there were horrendous problems, including an economic slowdown. The financial burden of reunification has exerted a terrible price on Germany.

The new “First Man” of Germany, Merkel’s husband is mild-mannered chemistry professor Joachim Sauer, who likes to cook for friends and watch old Dustin Hoffman movies.

Although Germany in 2006 and early 2007 didn’t do anything earthshaking enough to discuss here, a significant historical event occurred in Luxembourg. An agreement was reached to open up millions of Nazi secret archives locked away since World War II. The vast archive has been hidden for decades in the German town of Bad Arolsen, but will in time become available to researchers.

An 11-nation International Commission has overseen the archives since the war. The files are available to Holocaust survivors and families of victims whose fate may not be clear. The files contain most of what the Nazis recorded on their death camps, including the prisoners held there, not only Jews but Gypsies and gay people, including “patients” subjected to cruel medical experiments.

In the fall of 2009, Chancellor Angela Merkel swept to victory with her conservative Christian Democrats in an alliance with the probusiness Free Democrats. Since then, her popularity has declined as Germany’s economy suffered under the global economic crisis. The nation as a whole is on the gloomy side, since the country’s money formed a significant part of the bailout for Greece in 2010.

Art & Architecture

Germany’s art ranges from medieval carved wood statues to Dürer prints to expressionist paintings, its architecture from Gothic cathedrals and riotous baroque chapels to neoclassical temples and Bauhaus buildings. This overview should help you make sense of it all.

German Art

Romanesque (11th–12th c.)

Artistic expression in early medieval Germany was largely church related. Because Mass was said in Latin, the illiterate masses had to learn Bible lessons via bas reliefs (sculptures that project slightly from a flat surface) and wall paintings, which told key tales to inspire faith in God and fear of sin.

The best examples of this period include scraps of surviving Romanesque sculpture on the 11th-century, carved wood doors at Cologne’s St. Maria im Kapitol, Augsburg’s Dom St. Maria, and the intricate The Shrine of the Magi reliquary (1182–1220) in Kölner Dom (Cologne Cathedral; ).

Gothic (13th–15th c.)

Late medieval German art continued to be largely ecclesiastical, including stained glass, church facades, and massive wooden altarpieces festooned with statues and carvings. In Gothic painting and sculpture, figures tended to be more natural looking than in the Romanesque, but remained highly stylized.

The best examples and artists include stained glass in Ulm Münster, Rothenburg’s St. Jakobskirche, and Cologne’s St. Gereon’s Sacristy. Stephan Lochner (active 1400–51) was the premier artist of the School of Cologne, where he painted the Cologne Cathedral’s Altar of the City Patrons (ca. 1440; ) and the Wallraf-Richartz Museum’s Madonna in the Rose Garden (1450; ). Bamberger Reiter is an anonymous equestrian statue in Bamberg’s Kaiserdom, a masterpiece of 13th-century sculpture. Tilman Riemenschneider (1460–1531) was Germany’s genius Gothic woodcarver of languid figures draped in flowing, folded robes. Some of his best works remain in Würzburg, including statues in the Mainfränkisches Museum.

Renaissance (Late 15th to 16th c.)

The German Renaissance masters, striving for greater naturalism, included the greatest of them all, Albrecht Dürer (1471–1528). A genius painter, superb illustrator, and one of the greatest draftsmen ever, Dürer was the most important Renaissance artist outside Italy. His art matched the scientific and geometric precepts of the Florentine Renaissance with a command of color learned in Venice, a Flemish eye for meticulous detail, and the emotional sensibility of the German Gothic. He was the first to paint stand-alone self-portraits (including one in Munich’s Alte Pinakothek; ), as well as watercolors and gouaches for their own sake rather than merely as sketches. His paintings grace Berlin’s Gemäldegalerie and the Germanisches Nationalmuseum in his native Nürnberg. Also see the box.

Lucas Cranach the Elder (1472–1553) melded Renaissance sensibilities with a still somewhat primitive, medieval look. As a young artist in Vienna, he helped popularize landscape painting as a member of the Danube School (Rest on the Flight into Egypt [1504] in Berlin’s Gemäldegalerie; ) and invented the full-length portrait (Duke of Saxony [1514] and The Duchess [1514] in Dresden’s Gemäldegalerie Alte Meister, in the Zwinger complex; ). Hans Holbein the Younger (1497–1543) was second only to Dürer in the German Renaissance, and one of the greatest portraitists ever. Germany preserves precious little of his work, but you can see the Portrait of Georg Gisze (1532) in Berlin’s Gemäldegalerie and a Nativity in the Freiburg Cathedral.

Baroque & Rococo (16th–18th c.)

The baroque is more theatrical and decorative than the Renaissance, mixing a kind of superrealism based on the use of peasant models and the exaggerated chiaroscuro (“light and dark”) of Italy’s Caravaggio with compositional complexity and explosions of dynamic fury, movement, color, and figures. Rococo is this later baroque art gone awry, frothy and chaotic. Artists from this period include Andreas Schlüter (1660–1714), whose sculptures can now be found at Berlin’s Schloss Charlottenburg. Balthazar Permoser (1651–1732) was court sculptor at Dresden. His stone pulpit stands in Katholische Hofkirche, his sculptures in the Zwinger.

Romantic (19th c.)

The paintings of the Romantics were heroic, historic, dramatic, and beautiful in contrast to the classically minded Renaissance artists or the overly exuberant baroque artists. Adam Elsheimer (1578–1610) created tiny paintings that bridged the gap from late Renaissance Mannerism (a style characterized by twisting figures in exaggerated positions), through baroque, to proto-Romantic. His Flight into Egypt (1609) resides in Munich’s Alte Pinakothek. Caspar David Friedrich (1774–1840) was the greatest of the German Romantics. Dresden’s Gemäldegalerie Alte Meister in the Zwinger complex houses his famous Cross in the Mountains (1808).

Early 20th Century

Until Hitler, Germany was one of Europe’s hotbeds of artistic activity. But the Nazis outlawed and confiscated what they called “degenerate” modern art. Almost all the artists listed below are represented at Cologne’s Museum Ludwig, save Höch and Grosz, whom you can find at Berlin’s Neue Nationalgalerie. At least one artist from every movement is at Stuttgart’s Staatsgalerie, and there are also good modern collections at Düsseldorf’s Kunstsammlung Nordrhein-Westfalen and Dresden’s Albertinum. Munich’s Pinakothek der Moderne is strong on expressionist artists.

The major artists and movements of the early 20th century include expressionism, which abandoned realism and embraced, to varying degrees, exaggeration, visible artistry (thick paint, obvious brush strokes, and strong colors) and, most important, abstraction—all to try to “express” the emotions or philosophy of the artist himself. Pure expressionism fell into two main groups, especially Die Brücke, founded in 1905 Dresden, which sought inspiration in folk art, medieval examples, and “unspoiled” landscapes. Its greatest members were Ernst Kirchner (1880–1938) and Karl Schmidt-Rottluff (1884–1976), though Impressionist Emil Nolde (1867–1956) also later joined for a while. They have their own Brücke Museum in Berlin. The second movement was Der Blaue Reiter group, set up in Munich in 1911 by Russian-born Wassily Kandinsky (1866–1944), Franz Marc (1880–1916), and August Macke (1887–1914) to oppose the cultural insularity and antimodern stance of Die Brücke. The “Blue Riders” embraced international elements, modern abstraction techniques, and bright, vibrant color schemes to seek an emotional, visceral intensity in their work. Determined critics of the horrors of World War I, Dadaists were by turns abstract, nihilistic (inviting gallery visitors to help destroy the art), and just generally anti-art (many made random collages of found materials). Its proponents included Hannah Höch (1889–1978), who collaged photographs and magazine cutouts to make social statements; George Grosz (1893–1959), who was more strictly a painter, and later moved on to the Neue Sachlichkeit movement (below); and Kurt Schwitters (1887–1948), who eventually started his own splinter group called “Merz,” which experimented with abstract and Russian constructivist elements.

Both Max Ernst (1891–1976) and Alsatian Jean “Hans” Arp (1887–1966) started as Blaue Reiter expressionists and, after their Dada collage period, ended up in Paris as surrealists (Ernst as a painter, Arp as a sculptor and painter of amorphous shapes).

Neue Sachlichkeit (New Objectivity) was a 1920s Berlin movement opposed to the abstraction of the expressionists. Their caricature-filled art was painted in harsh colors and focused on even harsher subjects such as sex and violence. Proponents included Otto Dix (1891–1969), who started as an expressionist but quickly became one of the most scathing and disturbing New Objectivity painters; George Grosz (see above); and Max Beckmann (1884–1950), who also was originally an expressionist.

Post–World War II Art

Germany hasn’t had any one style or school to define its art since World War II, though terms such as neoexpressionism (an antiabstract, antiminimalist, anticonceptual trend that grounds itself more in tradition and figurative art) are often bandied about. There have been, however, several important artists. All three listed below are represented in Stuttgart’s Staatsgalerie and Bonn’s Kunstmuseum. Notable post–World War II artists include Josef Beuys (1921–86), an iconoclast and nonconformist who made constructivist sculpture from trash; Anselm Kiefer (b. 1945), who made a return to huge, mixed-media figurative art, often with a strong historical bent; and Georg Baselitz (b. 1938), a figurative painter—and a sculptor, since the 1980s—a neoexpressionist with a penchant for portraying people upside down.

Architecture

Romanesque (10th–13th c.)

Romanesque architects concentrated on building large churches with wide aisles to accommodate the masses. Identifiable features include rounded arches, thick walls, small windows, huge piers, tall towers, dual chancels, and blind arcades.

The best examples include Mainz’s Dom, which looks more like a castle fortress than a church; Worms’s Dom St. Peter, with a dual-chancel arrangement and two imposing facades; and Speyer’s Kaiserdom, the largest cathedral in Germany, a four-towered Romanesque basilica with dwarf galleries and blind arcades.

Church floor plan

Dom, Mainz

Gothic (13th–16th c.)

Ceilings began to soar with Gothic architects, walls became thinner, and windows—often stained glass—proliferated. On the exterior, graceful buttresses and soaring spires rose over a town. Pointed arches, it was discovered, carried more weight than rounded ones. Other features included cross vaulting, a facade flanked by two towers, flying buttresses, spires, gargoyles, and delicate tracery.

Cross vault

Cross section of a Gothic church

The best examples of Gothic include Cologne Cathedral, Germany’s finest, at once massive and graceful; Freiburg Cathedral, built almost entirely during the Middle Ages; and Ulm Münster, second in size only to Cologne’s cathedral. Ulm’s Münster sports the world’s tallest spire—though it did take 500 years to complete. The best-preserved town centers with Gothic-style houses and buildings include Rothenburg ob der Tauber, Goslar, Regensburg, and Tübingen.

Cologne Cathedral

Renaissance (Late 15th Through Mid–17th c.)

Germany was so busy with the Reformation that the country had little time for the Renaissance, which really had an effect only in southern Germany (transalpine influences from Italy) and a few isolated examples in the far north (influences from Flemish and Dutch neighbors). Other than a close eye to the Renaissance ideals of proportion, symmetry, and the classical orders (distinguished by the use of three column capitals: Corinthian, Ionic, and Doric), little specifically identifies Italianate Renaissance buildings.

Classical orders

Weser Renaissance was a late-16th- and early-17th-century style prevalent in Lower Saxony, distinguishable on houses by pinnacled gables (the triangular upper portion of a wall at the end of a pitched roof), heavy scrollwork, elaborate dormers (an upright window projecting from a sloping roof), rounded pediments (a low-pitched feature above a window, door, or pavilion), and decorative stone bands.

Celle is the best preserved town center in the Weser Renaissance style, including its moated Herzogschloss. The Pied Piper town of Hameln has several fine Weser Renaissance houses, including the Rattenfängerhaus, Hochzeitshaus, and Dempterscheshaus. The only solidly Renaissance church in Germany is Michaelskirche in Munich, built 1583 to 1597 by Jesuits to resemble their church in Rome.

Baroque & Rococo (17th–18th c.)

With a seamless meshing of architecture and art, the German baroque flourished in the south and in Lower Saxony. Germany’s brand of over-the-top, baroque chaos worked better perhaps than in any other country. Whereas rococo is usually used as a derogatory term for the baroque gone awry into the grotesque, in Germany the rococo actually succeeds (sometimes). Baroque lines follow a complex geometry and interplay of concave and convex surfaces. The overall effect is to lighten the appearance of structures and add movement of line and vibrancy to the static look of the Renaissance.

The best example of a baroque palace is the Residenz in Würzburg (1720–44; ), designed by Balthasar Neumann, including a monumental staircase under the world’s largest ceiling fresco by the Italian master Tiepolo. Friedrich the Great’s Sanssouci Palace at Potsdam (1744–1860) is one of Europe’s best examples of the rococo.

Jean François de Cuvilliés (1698–1767), a French dwarf, was originally the elector of Bavaria’s court jester until his talent for architecture was recognized. After schooling in France, he returned to Munich to craft its greatest rococo monuments, including the jewel box of the Residenz’s Altes Residenztheater, which now bears his name, and the facade of the baroque Theatinerkirche. His masterpiece is Schloss Nymphenburg’s Amalienburg hunting lodge, which became a model for palaces across Europe.

Amalienburg, Schloss Nymphenburg

Neoclassicism & Romantic (Mid–18th Through 19th c.)

As a backlash against the excesses of the baroque and rococo, by the middle of the 18th century architects began turning to the austere simplicity and grandeur of the classical age and inaugurated the neoclassical style. Their work was inspired by the rediscovery of Pompeii and other ancient sites. However, many of their interiors continued to be rococo, though more muted than before. The sterility of German neoclassicism didn’t last long, however, and the 19th century left the increasing nationalist German society looking into its own past for inspiration, kicking off the neo-Gothic Romantic Movement.

The Prussians remade Berlin in a neoclassical image, starting with the Brandenburger Tor and moving on to the buildings of Karl Friedrich Schinkel (1781–1841), among which Altes Museum, Schloss Charlottenhof, and Nikolaikirche are his best. There’s a museum devoted to him called the Friedrichswerdersche Kirche–Schinkelmuseum. In Munich, Ludwig I had Leo von Klenze lay out neoclassical structures across his “new Athens,” including those surrounding Königsplatz and the nearby Alte and Neue pinakotheks. Caught up in Wagner’s dramatic operas set in the heroic Middle Ages, “Mad” King Ludwig II was the ultimate Romantic, building for himself a series of faux medieval fairy-tale castles, including Herrenchiemsee’s Neues Schloss and the incomparable fantasy of Neuschwanstein Castle, a festival of banner-fluttering towers and battlements right out of a Brothers Grimm folk tale, its entire setting chosen solely for its picture-postcard perfection.

Neuschwanstein

20th-Century Architecture

Germany’s take on the early-20th-century Art Nouveau movement was called Jugendstil. The Bauhaus was a 1920s avant-garde school of architecture led by Walter Gropius (1883–1969) that combined industrial-age architecture with art and craft to create functional buildings and furnishings. Among its chief designers and institute teachers were Marcel Breuer, Wassily Kandinsky, Oskar Schlemmer, and Paul Klee. The Nazis closed the school in 1933, though it was reborn in Chicago. Jugendstil houses and hotels exist across Germany, but the movement took its name from Jugend magazine published in the Schwabing district of Munich, where many buildings in the style survive. Munich is also home to the Jugendstil Museum in the Stuck-Villa, a hybrid neoclassical/Jugendstil structure. Bauhaus structures, too, pepper Germany in unobtrusive ways, often in city outskirts. One fine example is Berlin’s Die Siemensstadt, the first modern housing complex, built with long “slab” blocks by Walter Gropius. Berlin also has the Bauhaus-Archiv Museum für Gestaltung, devoted to Bauhaus drawings, photographs, and some design examples.

Siemensstadt

Germany in Pop Culture

Books

Biography

Taylor, A. J. P. Bismarck: The Man and the Statesman (1967). This is the story of the “Iron Chancellor,” who was instrumental in unifying the German states into the German Empire.

Trevor-Roper, Hugh. The Last Days of Hitler (1986). This is an insightful reconstruction of the twilight of the Third Reich.

Fiction

Goethe, Johann Wolfgang von. The Sorrows of Young Werther (1990). This is required reading for every German schoolchild. Goethe explored the theme of suicide in this early epistolary novella.

Grass, Günter. Dog Years (1989), The Tin Drum (1990), and The Flounder (1989). Grass’s works deal with the German psyche coming to terms with the dreadful legacy of Nazism and World War II.

Isherwood, Christopher. The Berlin Stories (1954). Isherwood lived in Berlin from 1929 to 1933. His most famous story was “Good-Bye to Berlin,” which became the source of the stage and film versions of Cabaret.

Mann, Thomas. The Magic Mountain (1969). This is Mann’s most celebrated masterpiece.

Remarque, Erich Maria. All Quiet on the Western Front (1987). This is a classic novel of World War I.

Folklore & Legends

Grimm, Jacob, and Wilhelm Grimm. Complete Grimm Tales. This is the world’s most famous collection of folk tales, with a cast of characters that includes everybody from Little Red Riding Hood to Tom Thumb.

The Nibelungenlied. Every school kid in Germany reads this great epic poem, which details the exploits of Siegfried and Kriemhild and the fall of the Burgundians. The Nibelungenlied is characterized by the violence of its emotions and its uncompromising emphasis on vengeance.

History

Beevor, Antony. The Fall of Berlin 1945 (2002). This is one of the most vivid accounts ever written of the Red Army’s assault on Berlin.

Large, David Clay. Berlin (2000). In this controversial and caustic survey of Berlin since 1871, the author claims that “no other place has so dramatically encapsulated the highs and lows of our modern human experience” as Berlin.

Schneider, Peter. The German Comedy: Scenes of Life after the Wall, translated by Leigh Hafrey and Philip Boehm (1992). Comic absurdities surrounding the collapse of the Wall fill this book, but Schneider (author of The Wall Jumper) also explores resurgent anti-Semitism and how West Germans are coping with the flood of refugees from the former East Germany.

Shirer, William L. The Rise and Fall of the Third Reich: A History of Nazi Germany (1959–60). This story has never been told better—the complete saga of Hitler’s empire from beginning to end.

Taylor, Frederick. Dresden: Tuesday, February 13, 1945 (2004). This book takes a new look at the destruction of Dresden by Allied bombings, which was more famously brought home in Kurt Vonnegut’s 1969 novel Slaughterhouse Five. A British historian, Taylor debunks the theory that Dresden contributed little toward the Nazi war effort, but was “one of the foremost industrial locations of the Reich.”

Travel

Twain, Mark. A Tramp Abroad (1989). The American humorist’s travels through Germany are comically detailed here. Read also his comments on “The Awful German Language.”

German literature: From Gutenberg to Grass

Even before Gutenberg invented the first printing press in the Western world in the 15th century, German literature—both oral and written—was being produced. The first written literary work known is The Lay of Hildebrand, a narrative poem handed down by ancient storytellers and copied by monks at the Benedictine Abbey at Fulda. Such tales of valor, love, sorrow, and death were strong in oral tradition, with the Rhine valley giving rise to many legends and songs through the centuries, Lohengrin, Roland, the Lorelei, and the Nibelungen being among the subjects.

The age of chivalry gave birth to lyric poetry in Germany. Like the troubadours in France, Minnesingers of the Holy Roman Empire roamed the land singing songs of love and derring-do inspired by the Crusades. One of these, Walter von der Vogelweide, a knight of the late 12th and early 13th centuries, is seen as the father of lyric poetry in Germany. Another early-13th-century poet of note was Wolfram von Eschenbach, whose epic, Parsifal, glorifies chivalry and religious devotion. By the 16th century, another “hero” had joined German folklore and literature—Til Eulenspiegel, a clownish fellow whose life around 1300 became the subject of story and song.

From the time of the Reformation (16th c.), Martin Luther’s influence can be traced in many fields of the German life of the mind and spirit. His translation of the Bible into modern German was hailed as the first great literary work in the language. A Luther contemporary, Hans Sachs, a Meistersinger (a “master singer” who carried on the traditions of the earlier Minnesingers), was a prolific author of stories, poems, plays, and songs.

Publications of a picaresque novel, Simplicissimus, by Grimmelshausen (17th c.), marked the start of production of long prose narratives in the country. The Age of Enlightenment in German literature dawned in the late 17th century, inaugurated by Klopstock in his epic, Der Messias, and his Odes, and it continued into the 18th century. Rationalization was the watchword in this Enlightenment period, or Aufklärung. Much writing was in the form of philosophical treatises (for example, the works of Leibniz and Kant). Also in this era, the principles of German drama were laid out by Lessing.

As a reaction to rationalization, a literary movement known as Sturm und Drang was born in the 18th century, marked especially by poetry and drama extolling both sentiment and grand passions and rejecting previous social, political, moral, and literary authority.

In this time, when ideas of storm and stress dominated the literati, Johann Wolfgang von Goethe arrived on the scene, a giant of letters. Dramatist, novelist, philosopher, and Germany’s greatest poet, Goethe followed the pattern of the times in youth and early manhood (the Urfaust or Early Faust, Egmont, and The Sorrows of Young Werther). However, he soon became disenchanted with Sturm und Drang, turning in midlife after a stay in Italy to a classical mode (Nausikaa). During this period, he reworked Faust so that the final product begins with storm and stress and then levels off into tranquil classicism. It was after his sojourn in Italy that he also produced Wilhelm Meisters Lehrjahre, a novel that served for decades as the prototype of the best German fiction.

Another literary immortal, Johann Friedrich Schiller, playwright and poet, a contemporary and friend of Goethe, also turned away from Sturm und Drang after presentation of Don Carlos, a powerful historical drama honoring liberty. Similar dramas were Wallenstein and Wilhelm Tell. Schiller’s outlook placed his interests in the fields of history and philosophy.

Besides these two masters of the literary world, which soon moved on from classicism to romanticism to historical romanticism, such names of world note as the brothers Jakob and Wilhelm Grimm, famous for their collection of fairy tales, folk tales, and myths, and Heinrich Heine appeared. Many of the works of Heine, second only to Goethe as Germany’s greatest poet, have become folk songs.

A poet who became known for his work in the first quarter of the 20th century was Rainer Maria Rilke. Another German, the novelist Erich Maria Remarque (All Quiet on the Western Front), moved to the United States to escape the political conditions of his homeland. Franz Kafka became known for his novels of the absurd. Bertolt Brecht (The Threepenny Opera and Mother Courage) chose to live in East Germany after World War II.

In 1959 Gunther Grass burst onto the scene with his extraordinary first novel, Blechtrommel (The Tin Drum). He became a spokesman for the German generation that grew up in the Nazi era and received the Nobel Prize in literature in 1999 as a poet, novelist, and playwright.

Other Germans who won the Nobel Prize for literature:

• Theodor Mommsen, 1902, philosopher

• Paul J. L. Heyse, 1910, novelist, dramatist, and poet

• Gerhart J. R. Hauptmann, 1912, dramatist

• Thomas Mann, 1929, novelist

• Hermann Hesse, 1946, novelist

• Heinrich Böll, 1972, novelist

The influence of German thought on the Western mind has been powerful, from as far back as the 13th century when Albertus Magnus became known as a scholastic philosopher, naturalist, and theologian. Through the centuries, other notable philosophers have been Kant, Moses Mendelssohn, Schopenhauer, Hegel, Marx, Engels, and Nietzsche (Thus Spake Zarathustra).

Music

Music is an important and pervasive facet of German life. German disunity over the centuries actually helped foster German music. The many small principalities and bishoprics that split up the German-speaking world meant that there were many courts to offer opportunities to musicians, both composers and instrumentalists. As a result, the German-speaking nations produced more composers of indisputable greatness than any other.

Today, the musical scene in Germany is as vibrant as ever. Every major city has an opera house and an orchestra, many of them world renowned. New composers are encouraged, and productions are often at the cutting edge.

Men (and Women) of Note: Germany’s Rich Musical History

by Donald Olson

Some of the greatest works of Western music have been written by German composers. The roster includes Bach, Handel, Beethoven, Brahms, Mendelssohn, Schumann, and Wagner, as well as 20th-century greats Alban Berg and Kurt Weill. The country’s rich musical history dates back to 12th-century Minnesängers (troubadours) and religious chants. Over the centuries, Germany’s musical traditions were fostered in convents, monasteries and churches where composers were hired to write sacred songs, cantatas and oratorios. Eventually, as opera houses and concert halls became a fixture in German cities, a wider public clamored for musical performances. Classical music remains an important part of German culture today and can be enjoyed in concert halls and opera houses throughout the country.

Hildegard of Bingen (1098-1179) Known as Saint Hildegard, this Benedictine abbess was revered in her day as an author, visionary, herbalist, poet, and composer. Over 70 of her compositions have survived, one of the largest repertoires among medieval composers. Hildegard’s music is monophonic, consisting of only one melodic line, but her soaring melodies go well beyond the range of medieval chant.

Johann Sebastian Bach (1685-1750) After stints as a violinist, an organist, and Kapellmeister, Bach arrived in Leipzig in 1723 and stayed for the rest of his life, writing more than 200 cantatas, the Passion According to St. Matthew, and the Mass in B Minor. He was prolific in other ways as well, fathering 17 children. Every June, Leipzig celebrates Bach’s musical legacy with the famous Bachfest (www.bach-leipzig.de), during which Bach’s works are performed in the Thomaskirche, where he is buried.

Ludwig van Beethoven (1770-1827) Beethoven brought emotional depth and new tone colors to music in the transitional period between the Classical (Bach) and Romantic (Brahms) eras. He began his career by composing and performing piano concertos, and he continued to compose (9 symphonies, the opera Fidelio) even when his hearing began to deteriorate in the late 1790s. By the time his monumental Ninth Symphony was premiered in 1824, Beethoven was so deaf that he had to be turned around to see the tumultuous applause of the audience. Music lovers can visit his birthplace, the Beethoven House Museum, in Bonn.

Johannes Brahms (1833-1897) Like Beethoven, Brahms was a composer and virtuoso pianist who performed many of his own works. He composed for piano, chamber ensembles, symphony orchestra, and for voice and chorus. The structure of Brahms’s music is rooted in the traditions of Baroque and Classical composition, but he developed musical themes in a way pioneered by Beethoven, creating bold new harmonies and melodies. Brahms’s glory years as a composer were between 1868, when he premiered A German Requiem, his largest choral work, and 1885, by which time he had composed his four symphonies and the Piano Concerto No. 2. In 1889, Brahms made an experimental recording of his first Hungarian dance on the piano, the earliest recording made by a major composer.

Richard Wagner (1813-1883) Known primarily for his operas, Wagner pioneered advances in musical language that greatly influenced the development of European classical music. His life was tumultuous, requiring periodic flights to escape creditors. It was while in exile from Germany that Wagner completed his four-act Ring cyle, the opera Tristan and Isolde, and developed his revolutionary vision of operas as Gesamtkunstwerk, or “total artwork”, a fusion of music, song, dance, poetry, visual arts, and stagecraft. His fortunes brightened when Ludwig II, king of Bavaria, became Wagner’s patron., Wagner built the Festspielhaus in Bayreuth, a theater where his operas—and only his—would be performed. He is buried in the garden at Villa Wahnfriend in Bayreuth.

Kurt Weill (1900-1950) Although he was classically trained and had some success with his works for the concert hall, it was Weill’s musical-theatre songs that became popular in Germany in the late 1920s and early 1930s. His best-known work, The Threepenny Opera, was written in 1928 in collaboration with the German playwright Bertolt Brecht contained his most famous song, “Mack the Knife.” As a prominent Jewish composer, Weill became a target of the Nazis and was forced to flee Germany in 1933.

A History of German Music

Baroque Music The greatest composer of the baroque era was Johann Sebastian Bach (1685–1750), who was a supreme master of all musical forms of his time. Bach produced many church cantatas, especially for St. Thomas Church in Leipzig, where he served as cantor. His compositions were technically outstanding, vigorous, and profound. Little of his music was published during his lifetime, but after his death, his influence steadily grew, especially that of his organ works. The musical tradition in his large family was maintained by two of his talented sons, Carl Philipp Emanuel Bach (1714–88) and Johann Christian Bach (1735–82). The Brandenburg Concertos are highly recommended.

Bach’s contemporary George Frideric Handel (1685–1759) was another great composer. He first rose to prominence as musician of the court of Hannover, a post that he left to become composer at the court of St. James of England. He was a leading composer of operas and instrumental music for the court. Listen to his oratorio, Messiah.

The Classical Period Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart (1756–91), although an Austrian, cannot be omitted from any discussion of German music. His operas, with their contemporary themes and lively musical characterizations, paved the way for later composers. Franz Joseph Haydn (1732–1809), another Austrian, also exerted great influence on German music, especially instrumental music. Listen to Mozart’s The Marriage of Figaro and Don Giovanni and Haydn’s “Drum Roll” Symphony no. 103.

The 19th Century & Romanticism The 19th century was rich in musical genius. Ludwig van Beethoven (1770–1827) ushered in romanticism. His works included symphonies, piano concertos, piano sonatas, quartets, and many others. He greatly expanded and developed the orchestra. Tragically, he completely lost his hearing in 1819. However, the chamber music he wrote after this event shows an even greater depth and complexity than his previous compositions. Listen to symphonies no. 5 and no. 9.

Other great composers of the era include Franz Schubert (1797–1828), Felix Mendelssohn (1809–47), Robert Schumann (1810–56), and Johannes Brahms (1833–97). Listen to Schubert’s Lieder, Mendelssohn’s “Overture” to A Midsummer Night’s Dream, Schumann’s Symphony no. 3, and Brahms’s German Requiem.

The giant of the 19th-century opera world was Richard Wagner (1813–83). His theories of musical drama exerted a tremendous influence on everyone who followed him, even his detractors. His influence can best be heard in the music of the later Romantic composer Richard Strauss (1864–1949), whose operas carry Wagner’s ideas of character development to greater psychological depth. Listen to Wagner’s The Ring of the Nibelungs and Strauss’s Salome.

The 20th Century Musical experimentation flourished in early-20th-century Germany. Austrian-born Arnold Schönberg (1874–1951) developed the 12-tone system of musical structure. Kurt Weill (1900–50) and Paul Hindemith (1895–1963) tried to reach a more popular audience. During the Nazi era, many composers fled Germany. Others, like Hans Pfitzner (1869–1949) and Strauss, remained in an uneasy relationship with the Nazis. Listen to Schönberg’s Five Pieces for Orchestra, Weill’s Threepenny Opera, and Hindemith’s Mathis der Maler. The music of Pfitzner is still heard in such operas as Palestrina from 1917 and Das Herz from 1931. The compositions of Strauss are among the most frequently played around the globe, especially his operas such as Salome (1905) and Elektra (1909).

More recently, major composers such as Karlheinz Stockhausen (1928–2007) and Hans Werner Henze (b. 1926) have brought the traditions of Germany’s musical past into the present. Listen to Stockhausen’s Gesang der Jünglinge (Song of the Youths). Henze has won cultural awards around the world for such compositions as The English Cat in 1980 and La Cubana in 1973.

Beyond Baroque: The Modern German music Scene

Modern German music tastes are heavily influenced by the American or British pop worlds, but many German musicians have created their own Teutonic sounds, notably the amusingly named “Krautrock.” Kraut, of course, was originally an ethnic slur used by American GIs to refer to Nazi soldiers. One critic defined Krautrock “as a mix of Anglo-American post-psychedelic jamming and moody progressive rock.” Its stars were the band Can, often compared to the Velvet Underground, and the band Faust, which became one of the first acts to sign with Richard Branson’s Virgin Records.

Crossing international boundaries is the German industrial metal band Rammstein, which nonetheless performs almost exclusively in German. The group is known for its rock hit “Du Hast.” Rammstein is also controversial—a liquid-ejecting dildo earned them a night in a Massachusetts jail. Rammstein band members much admire the music of Nina Hagen, who often leads protests concerning issues such as the war in Iraq. She headlined the Drop Dead Festival in New York City in 2005.

Neue Deutsche Welle (New German wave) was a form of punk rock and new wave music that rose in the mid-’70s. Out of this movement came a German band from Berlin, Wir Sind Helden (We Are Heroes), which has achieved great success, including sold-out concerts in London, with non-English lyrics.

Punk music became popular in the 1970s in the wake of the success of British bands like the Sex Pistols, who developed a devoted following in West Germany. After reunification, many punk bands such as Slime rose to rant against politicians who ignore the dangers of neo-Nazis in Germany. The late ’70s also saw the rise of Goth rock, with strong ties to the English punk rock scene. Since the turn of the millennium, Goth rock has declined in popularity but still flourishes in pockets.

German hip-hop entered the mainstream only in the early ’90s, bringing with it graffiti and break dancing. The controversial and mysterious Berlin rapper Sido released Maske, a debut album in 2004, which was hailed as the first real German hip-hop music. His most recent releases are the 2008 album Ich und meine Maske (Me and My Mask) and the 2009 album Aggro Berlin.

Film

German cinema came into its own in the aftermath of World War I, although it actually began in 1895, when the brothers Skladanowsky presented their Bioscop in the Wintergarten at Berlin. Early German film not only has earned a place in cinema history, but also has been enormously influential in both Europe and the United States. Das Cabinet des Dr. Caligari (The Cabinet of Dr. Caligari), directed by Dr. Robert Wiene and released in Berlin in 1920, was hailed as “the first work of art on the screen.” After viewing the film, the French coined the term Caligarisme to describe the “all upside-down” postwar world.

The 1920s saw the production of many notable German films, such as Fritz Lang’s Dr. Mabuse, der Spieler (Dr. Mabuse, the Gambler), a 1922 screen version of a novel by Norbert Jacques. In 1924, Lang achieved great popular success with his two Nibelungen films, which became classics. The influence of Lang’s science fiction film Metropolis (1927) can still be seen today, and his Spione (The Spy) became the forerunner of the Hitchcock thrillers. Carl Mayer achieved renown for his scripts, which were called “screen poems.” These include the expressionist 1920 film Genuine and 1924s Der Letzte Mann (The Last Laugh). Mayer is said to have “unchained” the camera.

In the late 1920s, Hollywood began drawing away Germany’s brightest stars, including directors Ernst Lubitsch and F. W. Murnau (Faust, 1926) and stars such as Conrad Veidt and Emil Jannings. As the worldwide recession hit Germany, film production suffered further. The most notable film to come out of this troubled period was Der Blaue Engel (The Blue Angel), released in 1930. It starred Emil Jannings and brought world acclaim to its female lead, Marlene Dietrich, who later found even greater glory in Hollywood.

When the Nazis came to power, German films became propaganda tools. Nazi films reached the zenith of their power in Leni Riefenstahl’s 1934 Triumph des Willens (Triumph of the Will), acclaimed for its cinematic techniques in spite of its glorification of Nazism. She went on to make Olympia, her classic account of the 1936 Berlin Olympics. Her innovative camera angles and close-ups of the athletes in action were brilliant, and the films won her both praise and condemnation.

In the first decades after World War II, the German film industry was not very creative. By the 1970s, however, a group of talented directors was emerging, including Rainer Werner Fassbinder, Werner Herzog, Wim Wenders, and Volker Schlöndorff.

Currently, there are few screen giants in Germany. The Berlin Film Festival often honors golden oldies, such as Pandora’s Box, by G. W. Pabst, starring American Louise Brooks. Many Pabst films have been restored and reconstructed. Pabst’s critical treatment of social issues earned him the sobriquet “The Red Pabst” during the Weimar Republic. Franz Seitz is often honored for producing some 80 films during his career, including 1979’s The Tin Drum.

The 1981 story of a doomed Nazi submarine, Das Boot (The Boat) still holds the record for the most Academy Award nominations for a German film, a total of six. The 1990 film Das schreckliche Mädchen (The Nasty Girl) tells the often shocking story of what a Bavarian high-school student uncovers when she sets out to investigate the Nazi past of her hometown. Michael Verhoeven’s picture was nominated for an Oscar as best foreign film. The movie is said to have been based on true-life experiences of a young woman. The German hometown in the film is actually Passau, covered later in this guide. Hitler once resided in Passau.

In 2006, Das Leben der Anderen (The Lives of Others) won an Academy Award as best foreign-language film. The film documented how Stasi (the East German secret police) spied on the lives of its citizens. In 2007, Die Fälscher (The Counterfeiters) also won an Oscar as best foreign-language film. Shot in Berlin, this Austro-German production told the story of how forgers were assigned the job of producing massive amounts of fake U.S. dollars and British pounds in an effort by the Nazi regime to weaken the Allied economy.

Modern films continue to offer us a glimpse of contemporary German life and culture as well. Most of these are available in the U.S. either dubbed or translated into English. Tom Tykwer’s Lola Rennt (1998) remains one of our favorites. It was called Run Lola Run in its English release. Starring Franka Potenta as Lola, the film has been called iconic of a reunified Germany. The plot involves a young woman who has 20 minutes to find and bring 100,000 German marks to her boyfriend before he robs a supermarket. The action is riveting, the soundtrack dynamic.

In Der Krieger und die Kaiserin (The Princess and the Warrior), director Tykwer is reunited with Potenta. First released in 2000, the film follows the travails of Sissi, who works in a psychiatric hospital. She becomes involved with a tormented ex-soldier who stages a bank robbery. A near-death experience throws Sissi’s life into chaos.

One of the freshest post-reunification films is Wolfgang Becker’s 2003 comedy Goodbye, Lenin!, set in East Germany in 1989. A young man, to protect his fragile mother from a fatal shock after a long coma, tries to prevent her from learning that her beloved East Germany has disappeared.

Eating & Drinking

Though traditional dishes like dumplings, Wurst (sausages), pastries, and beer may make Germany seem the worst possible place to eat healthfully, in reality, restaurants are offering foreign foods and neue Küche (modern cuisine). Chefs trained in Switzerland, France, or Italy return to Germany to open Continental restaurants, and Italians and Turks, many of whom originally came to Germany as “guest workers,” own restaurants featuring their own culinary traditions.

Regional Specialties

• Bavaria & Franconia: In southern Germany, you can feast on such hearty fare as Leberkäs (a chilled mold of minced pork, beef, and liver), Knödel (dumplings or soaked bread), Haxen (pork or veal trotters, most often consumed with Sauerkraut), Rostbratwürste (small finger sausages), and Leberknödel (large liver dumplings in a clear broth). Schweinwurst mit Kraut (pork sausages with Sauerkraut) is another unforgettable local dish.

• Lower Saxony & Schleswig-Holstein: Here in northwest Germany, with its maritime tradition, a typical local dish is Aalsuppe—sweet-and-sour eel soup flavored with bacon, vegetables, and sometimes even pears and prunes (or perhaps other fruits). The sailor’s favorite is Labskaus, a ground-together medley of pork, salt herring, and beef, along with potatoes and beets. The traditional topping is a fried egg and a side dish of cucumbers. Bruntes Huhn is salt beef on a bed of diced vegetables, a robust winter favorite. Rollmops, pickled herring rolled in sour cream, is another local specialty, as is Finkenwerder Scholle (plaice) and oysters, raw or baked with cheese.

• Berlin: During those cold nights in old Prussia, Berliners took comfort in their soups, notably Kohlsuppe (cabbage soup) and Erbsensuppe (pea soup), along with dark bread, especially Westphalia pumpernickel. Hase im Topf is a delicious rabbit pâté. Other favorites are Bratwurst, a pork sausage, and Regensburger Wurst, a spicy pork sausage. For dessert, Berliners like Kugelhupf, a marvelous coffeecake, and Käsekuchen, or cheesecake. But probably the most typical Berlin delicacy is Eisbein (pigs’ knuckles).

• Hassen & Westphalia: Famed for its hams, this region eats food guaranteed to put hair on your chest. Sample their Sulperknochen, made from the pigs’ trotters (feet), ears, and tail, and served traditionally with pea pudding and pickled cabbage. Try Tüttchen, a ragout of herb-flavored calves’ heads and calves’ brains, or settle for Pickert, sweet-potato cakes flavored with raisins.

• Baden-Württemberg: In the southern region around Stuttgart, begin with such dishes as Schneckensuppe (snail soup), Spätzle (egg-based pasta), or perhaps Maultaschen (ravioli stuffed with ground meat, spinach, and calves’ brains). A dish beloved in the area and widely consumed is Geschnetzeltes (slices of veal in a cream sauce). The favorite local dish in Stuttgart itself is Gaisburger Marsch, a beef stew. Another commonly served dish is Rostbraten, braised beef, invariably accompanied by Sauerkraut or Linsen mit Saiten, lentil stew cooked with sausages.

• Saxony & Thuringia: In eastern Germany, you can feast on everything from Linsensuppe mit Thüringer Rotwurst (lentil soup with Thuringian sausages) to Rinderzunge in Rosinen-Sauce (calves’ tongues in grape sauce). Kartoffelsuppe (potato soup) remains a favorite of the district, as does a baked appetizer, Quarkkeulchen, made from curd, boiled potatoes, flour, sugar, and raisins, topped with cinnamon and served with applesauce. Each city in the district also has its own popular local dishes. Leipzig, for example, has its Leipziger Allerlei, a blend of carrots, peas, asparagus, cauliflower, mushrooms, crayfish, oxtails, bits of veal, and dumplings.

• Rhineland: The Rhineland features dishes that have made Germans the subject of good-natured ridicule, especially in neighboring France. For example, there’s Saumagen, stuffed pork belly with pickled cabbage. Also beloved is Schweinepfeffer, a highly seasoned and spicy pork ragout that’s thickened with pig blood. After that feast, it’s on to Hämchen, pork trotters with pickled cabbage and potatoes, or else Sauerbraten, beef marinated in wine vinegar and spices. Postwar Chancellor Konrad Adenauer was a Rhinelander, and one of his favorite foods was Reibekuchen, small potato pancakes with a blueberry sauce or applesauce. Taverns along the Rhine fill up when Federweisser, partially fermented new wine, comes in. They drink it while devouring onion tarts.

The Best of the wurst

The German love affair with Wurst (sausage) dates from the dawn of history. Every region of Germany has its own specialty, but the overall favorite seems to be Bratwurst from Nürnberg, made of seasoned and spiced pork. Germans often take their Wurst with a bun and a dab of mustard. Weisswurst (white sausage) is a medley of veal, calves’ brains, and spleen. Bauernwurst (farmer’s sausage) and Knockwurst are variations of the Frankfurter, which originated (naturally) in Frankfurt. (Oddly enough, small Frankfurters, which are called wieners or Vienna sausages in the United States and Wienerwurst in Germany, are known as Frankfurters in Austria.) Leberwurst (made from liver) is a specialty of Hesse. Rinderwurst and Blutwurst (beef sausage and blood sausage) are Westphalian specialties and are often eaten with Steinhäger (corn brandy).

Beer & Wine

Beer For variety and quality, German beer is unequaled. The world’s oldest brewery is in Bavaria, but other regions in Germany have proud beer-making traditions. Export beers and the rather more bitter Pils, the most popular type of beer, are also produced in Berlin, Hamburg, the Ruhr, Hesse, and Stuttgart. Altbier, a very early product of the brewer’s art, can be found today all over Germany.

In Germany, if you go into a beer hall and ask the bartender for ein Bier, you’ll probably get the standard stock beer, Vollbier, which is 4% alcohol. More potent is Export at 5% or Bockbier at 6%. Connoisseurs specify the type of beer they want and often the brewery. The following is a bit of beer vocabulary. When the malt has been darkly roasted and fermented for much longer, it becomes dunkles Bier, or dark beer. Doppelbock is an extra-dark beer with a 6% alcoholic content. Helles Bier is light and brewed from malt dried and baked by the local brewery, or Brauerei. Many Germans, especially the citizens of Bamberg, like their beer “smoked.” If that appeals to you, request Rauchbier. In nearby Bayreuth, Richard Wagner’s old hometown, locals prefer a “steam beer” known as Dampfbier. The denizens of Düsseldorf and Frankfurt can often be heard requesting Alt, a brown, barley-malt brew. Kölsch is a light beer drunk mainly in Cologne in tall fluted glasses. Hefeweizen is a yeasty wheat beer consumed often with a squeeze of lemon. Berliner Weisse is made from wheat, like a Bavarian white beer, but with a dash of raspberry or woodruff syrup. Dark and sweet, malt beer has hardly any alcohol, whereas Starkbier is a powerful beer served when the barrels are opened after the post-Lenten celebrations in March. It has the highest alcohol content of them all. Finally, Pils, or pilsner, beers are light and contain more hops. Dortmund has earned a reputation in this field.

o’ zapfstisl (“The Barrel Is Tapped”)

The oldest brewery in the world is at Weihenstephan, a former Benedictine monastery 30km (19 miles) northeast of Munich in Old Bavaria. It dates from the year 1040, although there is evidence that a hop garden already existed near the grounds of the monastery in A.D. 768. The monks here brought beer to the masses in Europe. Even today, the oldest brewery within Munich itself, Augustiner, reflects brewing’s monastic heritage.

Over the centuries, monks brewed a strong beer for consumption during the fasting period of Lent, during which they were technically supposed to drink only water. The story goes that the pope heard about this custom and ordered that the beer be transported to Rome for him to sample. When the pope finally tasted the beer after its long journey (it didn’t have preservatives back then), he decided it tasted foul and decreed that the beer was strong enough punishment for the Bavarian monks to drink it during Lent. Today, all Munich breweries brew this strong beer during Lent; Salvator and Triumphator are the best-known brands. Ator in German means a strong beer. By long-standing tradition, the names of German Doppelbock Bier (a type of strong beer) end with an “-ator” suffix.

Wine Germany has produced delightful wines for centuries, but sometime in the 1970s, German wine became the butt of jokes. The postwar German economic miracle had led to a boom in wine production. Many new vineyards sprang up suddenly, and quality was not always their first priority. Cheap, cloyingly sweet table wines flooded the market. One label in particular, Liebfraumilch, began to sully the reputation of the entire industry; the mere mention of its name to anyone in the know met with a knowing titter or contemptuous sneer. Today, however, German viticulture has many smaller producers producing excellent wines.

Good German wine is renowned for its natural lightness and its delicate balance of sweetness and acidity. Most vineyards flourish on steep hillsides, protected from harsh winds by wooded neighboring hills, especially on the banks of the Rhine and Mosel rivers and their tributaries. The vineyards profit from the warmth reflected off the sunlit water. The slow maturing of the grapes gives German wines their typical fresh, fruity acidity.

Germany does produce red wine, but as a rule it’s better to stick to white or perhaps a rosé. Trocken (dry) or halbtrocken (semidry) are often given on the labels; look for them if you want to escape anything sweet. This avoidance, however, should not extend to the dessert wines, which resemble nectar.

The overload of information on a German wine label is often puzzling to foreigners, but it’s not really that hard to decipher. First of all, the grape variety should be indicated. Legally, German wines are only required to contain 85% of the declared variety. The classic is Riesling, which can range widely in taste from fruity to spicy. Other grapes include Weissburgunder, used to make dry wines, often with an aroma of melon or pear, and Scheurebe, which produces delicious, high-quality wine with the aroma of red currant. No grape reference on the label often means a poorly blended, inferior-quality wine.

“Vintage” refers to when the grapes were grown (not harvested). The question of origin is also something to keep an eye on. It’s best if the label gives a single vineyard, but these can be distinguished from the less specific vineyard zones only if you are in the know or can consult a pocket guide, such as Johnson’s.

Next, check for the level of ripeness. German law distinguishes between Tafelwein (table wine) and Qualitätswein (quality wine). QbA (Qualitätswein bestimmter Anbaugebiete) on a bottle means the wine is made from the approved grape varieties, which will give it the particular and traditional taste of its region. QmP refers to Qualitätswein mit Prädikat (wine with distinction) and carries one of six special attributes. These, in order of ascending price, are Kabinett, Spätlese, Auslese, Beerenauslese (BA), Eiswein, and the exclusive Trockenbeerenauslese (TBA).

As a classification, Kabinett was first used by Eberbach Abbey in 1712 to denote quality. This wine is especially good as an aperitif with light snacks or veal. The mildly sweet and fruity Auslese from the Mosel-Saar-Ruwer region and the rich Spätlese are well suited to richer dishes such as duck, smoked fowl, and oysters. Those trocken and halbtrocken Rieslings from the Rheingau and Mosel-Saar-Ruwer are perfect with pork, sausages, and Sauerkraut, as well as with mild cheeses. A fuller-bodied Riesling Spätlese and Auslese Trocken from Rheingau or Pfalz goes excellently with wild boar and lobster. The rarest vintages, those sweet wines carrying the BA and TBA designations, are best left for anything oily or pungent in flavor, such as goose-liver pâté or rich cheeses. They are also wonderful with desserts.

Many foreign visitors tour one of the winegrowing districts. Since reunification, a number of wine districts have emerged in eastern Germany; however, the traditional German wine country, stretching from the middle Rhine at Bonn down to Lake Constance on the Swiss border, is still the most charming, with its classic scenery of imposing castle ruins, elegant spas, and Brothers Grimm villages replete with spires and black-and-white gabled houses.

When to Go

The most popular tourist months are May to October, although winter travel to Germany is becoming increasingly popular, especially to the ski areas in the Bavarian Alps. Germany’s climate varies widely. In the north, winters tend to be cold and rainy; summers are most agreeable. In the south and in the Alps, it can be very cold in the winter, especially in January, and very warm in summer, but with cool, rainy days even in July and August. Spring and fall are often stretched out—in fact, we’ve enjoyed many a Bavarian-style “Indian summer” until late in October.

Holidays

Public holidays are January 1 (New Year’s Day), Easter (Good Friday and Easter Monday), May 1 (Labor Day), Ascension Day (10 days before Pentecost/Whitsunday, the seventh Sun after Easter), Whitmonday (day after Pentecost/Whitsunday), October 3 (Day of German Unity), November 17 (Day of Prayer and Repentance), and December 25 and 26 (Christmas). In addition, the following holidays are observed in some German states: January 6 (Epiphany), Corpus Christi (10 days after Pentecost), August 15 (Assumption), and November 1 (All Saints’ Day).

Calendar of Events

All dates and events are subject to change. Contact the German National Tourist Board (www.germany-tourism.de) for more information. The board publishes a free calendar of forthcoming events three times a year, in April, October, and January; the first two are biannual calendars and the last is a yearly preview. They give the dates of trade fairs and exhibitions, theatrical and musical performances, local folk festivals, sporting events, conferences, and congresses throughout Germany.

For an exhaustive list of events beyond those listed here, check http://events.frommers.com, where you’ll find a searchable, up-to-the-minute roster of what’s happening in cities all over the world.

January

New Year’s Day International Ski Jumping, Garmisch-Partenkirchen. This is one of Europe’s major winter sporting events. For more information, contact the tourist bureau on Richard-Strauss-Platz ( 08821/180700;www.gapa.de). January 1.

February

International Film Festival, Berlin (at various theaters; announced in local newspapers). Stars, would-be stars, directors, and almost anyone with a film to peddle show up at this well-attended festival. It lasts for 10 days and is a showcase for the work of international film directors as well as the latest German films. Tickets can be purchased at any box office. Contact the Berlin International Film Festival ( 030/259200;www.berlinale.de) for more information. Early February.

Ambiente. This is one of the principal consumer goods trade fairs of Europe. Its origins go back centuries. For information, call 069/75750 (http://ambiente.messefrankfurt.com). Mid-February.

Fasching. Carnival festivals take place throughout Germany, reaching their peak on the Tuesday (Mardi Gras) before Ash Wednesday. Particularly famous carnivals take place in Bonn, Cologne, Düsseldorf, and especially Munich.

March

Spring Fairs. Highlights throughout Germany, especially in Augsburg, Münster, Nürnberg, Hamburg, and Stuttgart. Dates vary from year to year.

April

Walpurgis Festivals. Celebrated in the Harz Mountains. Festivities occur on the night of April 30.

May

Hamburg Summer. An entire series of cultural events, including concerts, plays, festivals, and special exhibitions throughout May, June, and July. For information, contact the Hamburg Tourist Bureau, in Hauptbahnhof ( 040/30051300;www.hamburg-tourism.de).

International May Theatre Festival, Wiesbaden. This city near Frankfurt hosts a premier cultural event—a series of artistic celebrations lasting 1 month. For information, contact the Wiesbaden Tourist Office, Marktstrasse 6 ( 0611/1729780;www.wiesbaden.de).

June

Floodlighting of the Castle, Heidelberg. Fireworks enliven the display in this storied university city. For more information, contact the Heidelberg Tourist Bureau, Willy-Brandt-Platz 1 ( 06221/14220;www.heidelberg-marketing.de). June, July, and September.

Mozart Festival, Würzburg. Mozart fans flock to this major cultural event in the baroque city of Würzburg. For more information, contact Tourismus Zentrale, Falkenhaus am Markt Centrum ( 0931/372336;www.wuerzburg.de or www.mozartfest-wuerzburg.de). Early June to early July.

July

See Floodlighting of the Castle, Heidelberg, under June, above.

Freiburg Wine Tasting. Local residents and visitors enjoy the first vintages from grapes grown in the Black Forest district. For more information, contact the Freiburg Tourist Board, Rathausplatz 2–4 ( 0761/3881880;www.freiburg.de). Early July.

Richard Wagner Festival, Bayreuth. One of Europe’s two or three major opera events, this festival takes place in the composer’s Festspielhaus in the capital of upper Franconia. Note that opera tickets often must be booked years in advance. For information, contact Festival Administration, Bayreuther Festspiele, Kartenbüro, Postfach 100262 ( 0921/78780;www.bayreuther-festspiele.de). Late July to late August.

August

Red Wine Festival, Rüdesheim/Assmannshausen. This is held in Assmannshausen, the Rhine village most famous for red wines. For exact dates, contact the Rüdesheim Tourist Bureau, Geisenheimer Strasse 22 ( 06722/906150;www.ruedesheim.de). Late August.

Musikfest Berlin ( 030/254890;www.berlinerfestspiele.de) takes place for a little more than 2 weeks. During the festival, Berlin plays host to orchestras, ensembles, conductors, and soloists from around the world. The festival is organized in conjunction with the Stiftung Berliner Philharmoniker. Late August to mid-September.

September

See Floodlighting of the Castle, Heidelberg, under June, above.

Oktoberfest, Munich. Much of Germany’s most famous festival takes place in September, not October. Millions show up, and hotels are packed. Most activities are at Theresienwiese, where local breweries sponsor gigantic tents that can hold up to 6,000 beer drinkers. Contact the Munich Tourist Bureau ( 089/23396500;www.muenchen.de) for particulars or just show up. Reserve hotel rooms well in advance. Mid-September to mid-October.

October

Frankfurt Book Fair. A major international event for publishers, book dealers, agents, and authors. For more information call 069/21020 (www.frankfurt-book-fair.com) or contact the Frankfurt Tourist Office ( 069/21238800;www.frankfurt-tourismus.de). Mid-October.

Spielzeit’europa. Schaperstrasse 24, Berlin ( 030/254890;www.berlinerfestspiele.de), is a 4-month season of theater and dance performances at Festspiele. October to January.

November

Jazz-Fest Berlin. This annual festival, staged at the Philharmonie, attracts some of the world’s finest jazz artists, ranging from traditional to experimental. Contact the Berlin Festspiele Ticket Office ( 030/254890;www.berlinerfestspiele.de) for more information. Early November.

Winter Dom, Hamburg. An annual amusement fair (sometimes called Hamburg Dom) at the Heiligengeistfeld. For more information, contact the Hamburg Tourist Bureau, in Hauptbahnhof ( 040/30051300;www.hamburg-tourism.de). Early November to early December.

December

Christmas Fair, Mainz. Mainz stages its Christmas fair on the Rhine for the 4 weeks preceding Christmas. For more information, contact the Mainz Tourist Bureau, Brueckenturm am Rathaus ( 06131/286210;www.mainz.de). December. (Other German towns hold Christmas fairs in Nov.)

Responsible Travel

Germans, with some justification, consider themselves in the avant-garde of green travel. Although they suffered one of history’s most devastating attacks on their environment (World War II), in the postwar years they became a front-runner in preserving their environment and protecting nature.

“Germans are known for recycling and reusing their natural resources,” said Berlin activist Hans Welder.

In Germany, more and more systems are going into place to generate energy from wind and solar power.

Germans didn’t exactly invent walking or hiking across their countryside, but you would think so when you notice the numbers of citizens who prefer this form of exploration. It’s a way to stay in good health, enjoy nature, and avoid harming the environment, all at the same time.

Trails in Germany are often signposted, cutting through all areas of the country, from tidal shores to low mountain regions, with tours offered to some of the more difficult-to-reach points along mountaintops.

The outdoor enthusiast might want to concentrate on Germany’s national parks, 14 in all, with the heaviest concentration in Bavaria and in old East Germany. Our favorite of these biosphere reserves is the Bavarian Forest National Park in the south and the Harz National Park in Lower Saxony and Saxony-Anhalt.

We applaud the German effort to reintroduce wildlife that was once native to these parks. The last lynx in the Harz Mountains was shot in 1818. But the animal was reintroduced in 1999, and wild lynxes began to give birth in 2002. However, other attempts have failed, including an attempt to return the capercaillie to its former native habitat.

For general data about the parks of Germany, consult Nationalpark Service, Informationshaus, 17192 Federow, Germany ( 039/91668849;www.nationalpark-service.de). The national parks are free, but camping at designated areas ranges from 5€ to 10€ per night. Some parks have huts that are basic but better than a tent, and this form of accommodations costs from 10€ to 20€ per person. Park rangers crack down on those who harm the environment.

If you’re interested in camping, check the Great Outdoor Recreation Page (www.gorp.com) before you go. It has some fine data not only on camping but also on ways to enjoy the landscapes of Germany.

Many organizations are devoted to eco-tourism today, including Biosphefere Expedition, P.O. Box 917750, Longwood, FL 32791 ( 800/407-5761;www.biosphere-expeditions.org). This group sets up ecofriendly tours to the Bavarian Alps, for example. Earthwatch, 3 Clocktower Place, Ste. 1000, P.O. Box 75, Maynard, MA 01754 ( 800/776-0188;www.earthwatch.org), often includes Germany in its 1- to 3-week jaunts to promote conservation of natural resources.

An unusual offering for the true green visitor is provided by Willing Workers on Organic Farms, Postfach 210259, 01263 Dresden (www.wwoof.de). Charging a membership of 20€, the organization’s name says it all—participants get free room and board at a variety of organic farms throughout the country, but they must be willing to work for their supper.

One of the best ways for the green traveler in Germany is to take a tour from one bio hotel to another. These jaunts take you to the most scenic parts of the country, ranging from Lüneburg in the north to the Bavarian Forest in the south. For information and a list of these places to stay, check www.biohotels.info.

Increasingly popular is spending a vacation on a German farm, a welcome alternative for families with children. Sometimes guests can help with the activities, such as feeding the cows or helping with the harvest. Some lodgings are no longer working farms but have been turned into tranquil guesthouses with typical regional charm. Find out more about this type of holiday by searching www.landtourismus.de.

In addition to the resources for Germany listed above, see frommers.com/planning for more tips on responsible travel.

Tours

Germany is one of the great outdoor destinations of Europe. From its mountains to its beaches, from its rivers to its castles, there is much to see and explore. It has summer attractions galore, plus skiing on its Alpine slopes in winter. Here is but a sampling of the offerings that await you.

Biking

In Germany you can bike through green valleys and past rivers while enjoying rural landscapes and villages. Allgemeiner Deutscher Fahrrad-Club, P.O. Box 107747, 28077 Bremen ( 0421/346290;www.adfc.de), offers complete information on biking in Germany.

For over 20 years, Classic Adventures, P.O. Box 143, Hamlin, NY 14464 ( 800/777-8090; fax 585/964-7297; www.classicadventures.com), has offered bike tours of such areas as the Romantic Road. Euro-Bike and Walking Tours has teamed with Austin-Lehman Adventures to offer some of the best biking and walking tours in Germany. The company’s trips in Bavaria are particularly notable. For more information, check out www.austinlehman.com. You can also call 800/575-1540 in the United States and Canada, or else write to P.O. Box 81025, Billings, MT 59108.

Dozens of companies in Britain offer guided cycling tours. One of the best is the Cyclists Touring Club, Parklands, Railton Road, Guildford, Surrey GUZ 9JX ( 0870/873-0060;www.ctc.org.uk). It charges £36 a year for membership.

Cruises

The most popular cruises in Germany are along the Rhine.

Jody Lexow Yacht Charters rents hotel barges (including crew, food, and beverages) and smaller self-drive craft for touring the canals and rivers of Germany. For additional information, contact the agency at 26 Coddington Wharf, Newport, RI 02840 ( 800/662-2628;www.jodylexowyachtcharters.com).

Canal barge cruises are the way to see a rarely viewed part of Germany. The best such packages are available through European Barging, 25132 Oakhurst Dr., No. 130, Spring, TX 77386 ( 888/869-7907;www.europeanbarging.com). German itineraries focus on Berlin and the Mecklenburg lakes, and the “Mosel Cruise,” from Trier to Koblenz.

Escorted General-Interest Tours

Escorted tours are structured group tours with a group leader. The price usually includes everything from airfare to hotels, meals, admission costs, and local transportation.

Many people derive a sense of ease and security from escorted trips. Escorted tours—whether by bus, motorcoach, train, or boat—let travelers sit back and enjoy the trip without having to spend lots of time behind the wheel or worrying about details. You know your costs upfront, and there are few surprises. Escorted tours can take you to the maximum number of sights in the minimum amount of time with the least amount of hassle—you don’t have to sweat over the plotting and planning of a vacation schedule. Escorted tours are particularly convenient for people with limited mobility. They can also be a great way to meet people.

On the downside, an escorted tour often requires a big deposit upfront, and lodging and dining choices are predetermined. You’ll have few opportunities for serendipitous interactions with locals. The tours can be jampacked with activities, leaving little room for individual sightseeing, whim, or adventure—plus they often focus only on the heavily touristed sites, so you miss out on lesser known gems.

Brendan Vacations ( 800/421-8446;www.brendanvacations.com) has a selection of 8- to 15-day tours. Accommodations are at the better hotels, and rates include everything except airfare. Collette Vacations ( 800/340-5158;www.collettevacations.com) has an “Alpine Countries” tour that covers southern Germany, Austria, and Switzerland. Globus & Cosmos Tours ( 800/338-7092;www.globusandcosmos.com) offers 9- to 16-day escorted tours of various parts of Germany. It also has a budget branch that offers tours at lower rates. Maupintour ( 800/255-4266;www.maupintour.com) has a selection of upscale tours, such as a Rhine River tour of Berlin, Dresden, Meissen, Nürnberg, and Heidelberg. Its most popular tour is a 14-day trip that takes in such cities as Dresden, Berlin, Rothenburg, Munich, Meissen, Baden-Baden, and Potsdam, including a Rhine River cruise past the Lorelei Rock.

Abercrombie & Kent ( 800/554-7016;www.abercrombiekent.com) provides customized group tours to various areas of Germany.

Golf

Most German golf courses welcome visiting players who are members of courses at home. Weekday greens fees are usually around 50€, rising to as much as 90€ on Saturday and Sunday. For information about the various golf courses, write to the Deutscher Golf/Verband, Viktoriastrasse 16, 65189 Wiesbaden ( 0611/990200;www.golf.de/dgv).

The Swabian region of Allgäu has several good courses. Golf Club Oberstaufen und Steibis ( 08386/8529;www.golf-oberstaufen.de), at Oberstaufen, is an 18-hole course close to a forest and nature park. Ofterschwang, a small, peaceful resort on the scenically beautiful Tiefenberger Moor, has Golf Club Sonnenalp ( 08321/272181;www.golfresort-sonnenalp.de). A good 18-hole course is found at Golf Bodensee ( 08389/89190;www.gcbw.de) on Lake Constance in southern Germany. Farther north, the city of Augsburg has an 18-hole course at Golf Augsburg ( 08234/5621;www.golfclub-augsburg.de).

Hiking & Mountain Climbing

These sports are popular in the German uplands. It’s estimated that Germany has more than 80,000 marked hiking and mountain-walking tracks. The Deutschen Wanderverband, Wilhelmshöher Alle 157–159, 34121 Kassel ( 0561/938730;www.wanderverband.de), services the trails and offers details about trails, shelters, huts, and addresses of hiking associations in various regions. The Deutscher Alpenverein (DAV), Von-Kahr-Strasse 2–4, 80997 Munich ( 089/140030;www.alpenverein.de), owns and operates 50 huts in and around the Alps that are open to all mountaineers. This association also maintains a 15,000km (9,300-mile) network of Alpine trails.

The best Alpine hiking is in the Bavarian Alps, especially the 1,240m (4,070-ft.) Eckbauer, on the southern fringe of Partenkirchen. The tourist office will supply hiking maps and details. Another great place for hiking is Berchtesgaden National Park, Franziskanerplatz 7, Berchtesgaden ( 08652/64343;www.nationalpark-berchtesgaden.bayern.de), bordering the Austrian province of Salzburg. This park offers the best-organized hikes and will hook you up with various groups offering hikes.

Planning Your Trip to Germany

Getting There

By Plane

Lufthansa ( 800/645-3880 in the U.S., 800/563-5954 in Canada, or 01805/805805 in Germany; www.lufthansa.com) operates the most frequent service and flies to the greatest number of Germany’s airports. From North America, Lufthansa serves 23 gateway cities. In any season, there are more than 100 weekly flights from these cities to Germany. The largest of the gateways is the New York City area, where flights depart from both JFK and Newark airports. Lufthansa has an alliance with United Airlines and Air Canada to provide seamless air service to Germany and other parts of the globe from North America. Dubbed “Star Alliance,” the union allows cross-airline benefits, including travel on one or all of these airlines on one ticket and frequent-flier credit to the participating airline of your choice.

American Airlines ( 800/443-7300;www.aa.com) flies nonstop from Chicago and Dallas to Frankfurt daily, and American’s flights connect easily with ongoing flights to many other German cities on Lufthansa or British Airways. Continental Airlines ( 800/525-0280;www.continental.com) offers daily nonstop service from Newark to Frankfurt. Delta Airlines ( 800/241-4141;www.delta.com) offers daily connecting service to Hamburg (via Paris) and nonstop to Frankfurt from Atlanta, Cincinnati, and New York’s JFK; nonstop to Munich from Atlanta; and nonstop to Berlin from JFK. United Airlines ( 800/538-2929;www.united.com) offers daily nonstops from Los Angeles, New York, and Chicago to Frankfurt and Munich, and because of the Star Alliance, discussed above, all German flights by Lufthansa or Air Canada will also be honored as a part of a United ticket. US Airways ( 800/428-4322;www.usairways.com) also flies to Frankfurt and Munich daily (with nonstops from Charlotte and Philadelphia).

From London, British Airways ( 0870/8509850;www.britishairways.com) and Lufthansa ( 01805/805805;www.lufthansa.com) are the most convenient carriers to the major German cities, including Düsseldorf, Cologne, Frankfurt, Munich, and Berlin. British Midland ( 0870/6070555;www.flybmi.com) has daily flights to Cologne, Düsseldorf, Frankfurt, Hamburg, and Munich.

Flying for Less: Tips for Getting the Best Airfare

• Passengers who can book their ticket either long in advance or at the last minute, or who fly midweek or at less trafficked hours, may pay a fraction of the full fare. If your schedule is flexible, say so, and ask if you can secure a cheaper fare by changing your flight plans.

• Search the Internet for cheap fares. The most popular online travel agencies are Travelocity (www.travelocity.com), Expedia (www.expedia.com), and Orbitz (www.orbitz.com). In the U.K., go to Travelsupermarket ( 0845/345-5708;www.travelsupermarket.com), a flight search engine that offers flight comparisons for the budget airlines whose seats often end up in bucket shop sales. Other websites for booking airline tickets online include Cheapflights.com, SmarterTravel.com, Priceline (www.priceline.com), and Opodo (www.opodo.com). Meta-search sites (which find and then direct you to airline and hotel websites for booking) include Sidestep.com and Kayak.com—the latter includes fares for budget carriers such as JetBlue and Spirit as well as the major airlines. Lastminute.com is a great source for last-minute flights and getaways. In addition, most airlines offer online-only fares that even their phone agents know nothing about.

• Keep an eye on local newspapers for promotional specials or fare wars, when airlines lower prices on their most popular routes.

• Consolidators, also known as bucket shops, are wholesale brokers in the airline-ticket game. Consolidators buy deeply discounted tickets (“distressed” inventories of unsold seats) from airlines and sell them to online ticket agencies, travel agents, tour operators, corporations, and, to a lesser degree, the general public. Consolidators advertise in Sunday newspaper travel sections (often in small ads with tiny type), in both the U.S. and the U.K. They can be great sources for cheap international tickets. On the downside, bucket shop tickets are often rigged with restrictions, such as stiff cancellation penalties (as high as 50%–75% of the ticket price). And keep in mind that most of what you see advertised is of limited availability. Several reliable consolidators are worldwide and available online. STA Travel (www.statravel.com) has been the world’s leading consolidator for students since purchasing Council Travel, but their fares are competitive for travelers of all ages. Flights.com ( 201/541-3826) has excellent fares worldwide, particularly to Europe. They also have “local” websites in 12 countries. FlyCheap ( 800/359-2432;www.flycheap.com) has especially good fares to sunny destinations. AirTicketsDirect ( 888/858-8884;www.airticketsdirect.com), based in Montreal, is another good source.

• Join frequent-flier clubs. Frequent-flier membership doesn’t cost a cent, but it does entitle you to free tickets or upgrades when you amass the airline’s required number of frequent-flier points. You don’t even have to fly to earn points; frequent-flier credit cards can earn you thousands of miles for doing your everyday shopping. But keep in mind that award seats are limited, seats on popular routes are hard to snag, and more and more major airlines are cutting their expiration periods for mileage points—so check your airline’s frequent-flier program so you don’t lose your miles before you use them. Inside tip: Award seats are offered almost a year in advance, but seats also open up at the last minute, so if your travel plans are flexible, you may strike gold. To play the frequent-flier game to your best advantage, consult the community bulletin boards on FlyerTalk (www.flyertalk.com) or go to Randy Petersen’s Inside Flyer (www.insideflyer.com). Petersen and friends review all the programs in detail and post regular updates on changes in policies and trends.

Getting Through the airport

• Arrive at the airport at least 2 hours before an international flight to Germany. You can check the average wait times at your airport by going to the TSA Security Checkpoint Wait Times site (http://waittime.tsa.dhs.gov).

• Know what you can carry on and what you can’t. For the latest updates on items you are prohibited to bring in carry-on luggage, go to www.tsa.gov/travelers/airtravel.

• Beat the ticket-counter lines by using the self-service electronic ticket kiosks at the airport or even printing out your boarding pass at home from the airline website. Using curbside check-in is also a smart way to avoid lines.

• Help speed up security before you’re screened. Remove jackets, shoes, belt buckles, heavy jewelry, and watches and place them either in your carry-on luggage or the security bins provided. Place keys, coins, cellphones, and pagers in a security bin. If you have metallic body parts, carry a note from your doctor. When possible, keep liquids in checked baggage.

• Use a TSA-approved lock for your checked luggage. Look for Travel Sentry certified locks at luggage or travel shops and Brookstone stores (or online at www.brookstone.com).

Don’t Stow It—Ship It

Though pricey, it’s sometimes worthwhile to travel luggage-free, particularly if you’re toting sports equipment, meetings materials, or baby equipment. Specialists in door-to-door luggage delivery include Skycap International and Sports Express. Both services use the same website (www.sportsexpress.com).

By Train

Many passengers, especially holders of the Eurailpass, travel to Germany by train from other European cities. (See “Getting Around,” below, for information on purchasing rail passes.)

British Rail runs four trains a day to Germany from Victoria Station in London, going by way of the Ramsgate-Ostend ferry or jetfoil. Two trains depart from London’s Liverpool Street Station, via Harwich-Hook of Holland. Most trains change at Cologne for destinations elsewhere in Germany. You can purchase tickets through British Rail travel centers in London ( 866/274-8724 in the U.S. and Canada; www.britrail.com). See “Via the Chunnel,” below, for information about the Eurostar service running between London and Brussels via the Channel Tunnel.

Unless you pay a premium for rail travel on the Eurostar, which connects London’s St. Pancras station via the Chunnel (see below) with either Paris or Brussels, train travel from the U.K. to points within Germany can be lengthy and tedious, with multiple transfers en route and with long, bouncing segments aboard either hovercrafts or conventional ferryboats between the English port of Ramsgate and the Belgian port of Oostende. If you opt to save money and embark upon one of these non-Chunnel methods of transport, expect transit times between London and Cologne of up to 12 hours, and from London to either Berlin or Munich of between 18 and 22 hours, depending on the train and the ferryboat or hovercraft crossing.

Frankly, it’s far better to pay the extra premium aboard Eurostar, the name given to each of the trains running under the English Channel, between London and Brussels, and from there, taking a high-speed train onward to your destination within Germany. Even so, transit time from London to Cologne, requiring a change in Brussels, would take 4 hours and 45 minutes; from London to Berlin, requiring a single change in Brussels and Cologne, would take 9 hours; and from London to Munich, requiring a single change in Brussels, would require between 9 and 10 hours, depending on the day of the week.

By Car & Ferry

To bring a car over from England, you face a choice of ports from which you’ll continue driving to Germany. P & O Ferries ( 08716/645645 in the U.K.; www.poferries.com) has 30 to 35 ferryboat crossings a day, depending on the season, between Dover and Calais. The crossing can take as little as 1 hour and 15 minutes. Once you’re in Calais, the drive to Cologne takes about 3 hours. Other options involve passage from Harwich to the Hook of Holland, a sea crossing of about 8 hours. You can also take your car via the Chunnel (see below).

Via the Channel Tunnel

The $15-billion Channel Tunnel, one of the greatest engineering feats of all time, is the first link between Britain and the Continent since the Ice Age. The tunnel was built beneath the seabed through a layer of impermeable chalk marl and sealed with a reinforced concrete lining. The 50km (30-mile) journey between Britain and France takes 35 minutes, although actual time in the Chunnel is only 19 minutes. Once on the Continent, you can connect to Germany fairly easily.

Rail Europe (www.raileurope.com) sells tickets on the Eurostar direct train service between London and Paris or Brussels ( 800/622-8600 in the U.S., or 800/361-7245 in Canada; www.eurostar.com). In the U.K., make reservations for Eurostar at 0870/5186186. The train operates 24 hours a day, 365 days a year, running every 15 minutes during peak travel times and at least once an hour at night.

The tunnel also accommodates passenger cars, charter buses, taxis, and motorcycles from Folkestone to Calais. Tickets may be purchased at the tollbooth.

Getting Around

By Plane

From Frankfurt, most Lufthansa ( 800/645-3880 in the U.S., or 800/563-5954 in Canada; www.lufthansa.com) destinations in Germany can be reached in an average of 50 minutes, with at least four flights daily.

All German cities with commercial airports have an airport shuttle service, offering reduced fares and fast connections between the city center and the airport. Departure points are usually the airlines’ town offices and the city’s main rail terminal. Luggage can be checked at the DB (Deutsche Bahn/German Rail) baggage counter at the airport for delivery to the railroad station at your ultimate destination.

By Train

Whether you travel first- or second-class, you’ll find that the trains of German Rail (DB Rail; 0800/1507090;www.bahn.de) deserve their good reputation for comfort, cleanliness, and punctuality. All are modern and fast, and all cars are nonsmoking. A snack bar or a dining car, serving German and international cuisine as well as good wine and beer, can usually be found on all trains except locals.

For city sightseeing, you can leave your baggage in a locker or check it at the station’s baggage counter. In many cities, German Rail provides door-to-door baggage service, allowing passengers to have luggage picked up at or delivered to their hotels. Accompanying baggage can be checked for a nominal fee. Suitcases, baby carriages, skis, bicycles, and steamer trunks are permitted as baggage. Insurance policies of various kinds, including a travel medical plan, are also available.

About 20,000 InterCity (IC;www.bahn.de) passenger trains offer express service every hour between most large and medium-size German cities. IC trains have adjustable cushioned seats and individual reading lights, and often offer telephone and secretarial services. Bars, lounges, and dining rooms are available, too. A network of EuroCity (EC) trains connecting Germany with 13 other countries offers the same high standards of service as those of IC.

Germany’s high-speed rail network, known as InterCity Express (ICE), is among the fastest in Europe—their trains reach speeds of 280kmph (174 mph). One of these trains runs from Hamburg, via Würzburg and Nürnberg, to Munich; another from Frankfurt, via Stuttgart, to Munich; and yet another from Berlin, via Frankfurt, to Munich. Each train makes stops along the way. ICE significantly reduces travel time, making transits north to south across the country easily possible in the course of a single day. Some 200 east-west connections have been added to the German Rail timetable to link the Deutsche Bundesbahn (west) and the Deutsche Reichsbahn (east). Additional connections make Leipzig and Dresden more accessible.

InterCity Night (ICN)—one of the most comfortable night trains in Europe—operates between Berlin and Bonn, and Berlin and Munich. Even though the train doesn’t depart until 10 or 11pm, you may board as early as 8 or 8:30pm. Arrival the next morning is between 6:55 and 7:55am, and you have the option of remaining aboard until 9 or 9:30am.

The ICN offers first and tourist class. Sleeping accommodations in first class include single or double compartments with shower and toilet, and they are equipped with key cards, phones for wake-up service, luggage storage, and other amenities. Tourist class offers open seating with sleeperettes (reclining seats). The ICN is equipped with a restaurant and bistro car, and a breakfast buffet is included in the first-class fare. For an extra cost, a limited menu for dinner is offered. Advance reservations are mandatory for all sleeping accommodations.

German Rail issues tickets for the ICN and also makes reservations. Eurail and German Rail pass holders are accepted on this train but have to pay for the seat or sleeper reservation and also for meals. Youth-pass holders are accepted only in tourist class. Children 3 and under travel free, provided they do not require a separate seat; those between 4 and 12 are charged half fare.

Before leaving for Germany, you can get complete details about German Rail and the many plans it offers, as well as information about Eurailpasses, at Rail Europe ( 877/272-7245;www.raileurope.com).

German Rail Tourist Passes The German Rail Passes offer several options beginning with 3 days and going up to 10 days in 1 month. For example 3 days of travel in 1 month costs 230€ first class or 175€ second class.

If you’re age 12 to 25, ask about a Youth Pass, or inquire about a Twin Pass, which is shared by two adults traveling together at all times.

The passes also entitle the bearer to additional benefits, such as free or discounted travel on selected bus routes operated by Deutsche Touring/Europabus, including destinations not serviced by trains, or excursions along particularly scenic highways such as the Romantic Road and the Castle Road. The pass also includes free travel on KD German Line steamers (day trips only) along the Rhine, Main, and Mosel rivers.

These passes are available from www.bahn.com or buy them from travel agent Rail Europe ( 877/272-7245). Rail Europe can also arrange cost-effective “Rail and Drive” packages that combine a certain number of days on the train with a certain number of days in a rental car. Here’s an example of how it might work: Ride the train from Frankfurt to Munich, spend 3 days exploring the city, and then rent a car for a 2-day excursion to Berchtesgaden and the Bavarian Alps. The German Rail Flexipass is also sold by Premier Gateway ( 800/777-8369 in the U.S. and Canada; www.premiergateway.com).

Where to Buy Rail Passes Travel agents in all towns and railway agents in major North American cities sell all these tickets, but the biggest supplier is Rail Europe ( 877/272-7245;www.raileurope.com), which can also give you informational brochures.

Many different rail passes are available in the U.K. for travel in Britain and continental Europe. Stop in at the International Rail Centre, Victoria Station, London SW1V 1JY ( 0870/5848848 in the U.K.). Some of the most popular passes, including Inter-Rail and Euro Youth, are offered only to travelers 25 years of age or under; these allow unlimited second-class travel through most European countries.

By Car

British travelers who want to bring their own cars over should see “By Car & Ferry” under “Getting There,” earlier in this chapter.

Competition in the European car-rental industry is fierce, so make sure you comparison shop. You can make reservations by calling these toll-free numbers: Avis ( 800/331-1212;www.avis.com), Budget ( 800/472-3325;www.budget.com), Hertz ( 800/654-3001;www.hertz.com), Kemwel Drive Group ( 877/820-0668;www.kemwel.com), and Auto Europe ( 800/223-5555;www.autoeurope.com). You can often rent a car in one German city and return it to another for no additional charge.

There are some advantages to prepaying rentals in your native currency before leaving home. You get an easy-to-understand net price, the rental process is more streamlined, and you can avoid unpleasant surprises caused by sudden unfavorable changes in currency exchange rates. Remember, however, that if you opt to prepay and your plans change, you’ll have to go through some rather complicated paperwork for changing or canceling a prepaid contract.

Driving Rules In Germany, you drive on the right side of the road. Both front- and back-seat passengers must wear safety belts. Children 5 and younger cannot ride in the front seat.

Easy-to-understand international road signs are posted, but U.S. travelers should remember that road signs are in kilometers, not miles. In congested areas, the speed limit is about 50kmph (about 30 mph). On all other roads except the autobahns, the speed limit is 100kmph (about 60 mph).

In theory, there is no speed limit on the autobahns (in the left, fast lane), but many drivers going too fast report that they have been stopped by the police and fined, and the government recommends a speed limit of 130kmph (81 mph). Reasonable caution is recommended, for safety if nothing else. A German driver on the autobahn can be a ferocious creature, and you may prefer the slow lane.

Note: Drinking while driving is a very serious offense in Germany. Be sure to keep any alcoholic beverages in the trunk or other storage area.

Breakdowns/Assistance The major automobile club in Germany is Automobilclub von Deutschland (AvD), Lyoner Strasse 16, 60528 Frankfurt ( 069/660600;www.avd.de). If you have a breakdown on the autobahn, you can call from one of many emergency phones, spaced about a mile apart. On secondary roads, go to the nearest phone. If you don’t belong to an auto club, call 01802/222222. In English, ask for “road service assistance.” Emergency assistance is free, but you pay for parts and materials.

Driver’s Licenses American drivers, and those from E.U. countries, need only a domestic license to drive. However, in Germany and throughout the rest of Europe, you must also have an international insurance certificate, known as a carte verte (green card). Any car-rental agency will automatically provide one of these as a standard part of the rental contract, but it’s a good idea to double-check all documents at the time of rental, just to be sure that you can identify the card if asked by border patrol or the police.

By Bus

An excellent, efficient bus network services Germany. Many buses are operated by Bahnbus, which is owned by the railway. These are integrated to complement the rail service. Bus service in Germany is particularly convenient during slow periods of rail service, normally around midday and on Saturday and Sunday. German post offices often operate local bus services (contact local post offices for schedules and prices).

The most popular bus ride is along the Romantic Road, where special green-and-white buses carry tourists regularly from town to town. For more information, ask a travel agent or call Deutsche Touring GmbH, Am Römerhof 17, Frankfurt ( 069/7903501;www.touring.de).

By Boat

Perhaps Germany’s most beautiful features are its lakes and rivers. The mighty Rhine is the country’s most traveled waterway. German cruise ships also run on the Main River between Mainz and Frankfurt; on the Danube from Nürnberg to Linz (Austria), going on to Vienna and Budapest; and on the Mosel between Cochem and Trier.

To cruise the mythically rich rivers of Germany, especially the legendary Rhine, you can book cruises on the principal carrier, Viking River Cruises ( 800/304-9616 in the U.S., or 0800/319-6660 in the UK; www.vikingrivers.com).

Tips on Accommodations

In general, Germany has one of the highest standards of innkeeping in the world. Hotels range from five-star palaces of luxury and comfort to plain country inns and simple Gasthäuser (guesthouses), with a huge variation in rates. The cheapest accommodations are in Fremdenheime (pensions) or rooms in private homes (look for a sign saying ZIMMER FREI, meaning there are rooms for rent). Hotels listed as garni provide no meals other than breakfast.

Also, tourist offices will often book you into a room for a small charge. Obviously, the earlier you arrive in these offices, the more likely you are to get a good room at the price you want.

Surfing for Hotels

In addition to the online travel booking sites Travelocity, Expedia, Orbitz, Priceline, and Hotwire, you can book hotels through Hotels.com, Quikbook (www.quikbook.com), and Travelaxe (www.travelaxe.com).

HotelChatter.com is a daily webzine offering smart coverage and critiques of hotels worldwide. Go to TripAdvisor.com or HotelShark.com for helpful independent consumer reviews of hotels and resort properties.

It’s a good idea to get a confirmation number and make a printout of any online booking transaction.

Throughout Germany, as in many tourist centers worldwide, hotels routinely overbook, so booking by credit card doesn’t automatically hold your room if you arrive later than expected or after 6pm. The hotel clerk always asks when you expect to arrive, and the hotel usually holds the room until that time. Always pad your expected arrival by a few hours to be safe. However, all bets are off after 7pm, and the hotel is likely to give your room away unless you call and specifically ask them to hold it. If you’ve made a reservation very far in advance, confirm within 24 hours of your expected arrival. If you’re experiencing a major delay, alert the hotel as soon as you can.

Beware of billing. Readers report that sometimes in Germany they booked a room online (say, $100 a night) but were charged $125 when they checked out. Keep your online confirmation in case of a dispute.

Saving on Your Hotel Room

The rack rate is the maximum rate that a hotel charges for a room. Hardly anybody pays this price, however, except in high season or on holidays. To lower the cost of your room:

• Ask about special rates or other discounts. You may qualify for corporate, student, military, senior, frequent-flier, trade union, or other discounts.

• Dial direct. When booking a room in a chain hotel, you’ll often get a better deal by calling the individual hotel’s reservation desk rather than the chain’s main number.

• Book online. Many hotels offer Internet-only discounts, or supply rooms to Priceline, Hotwire, or Expedia at rates much lower than the ones you can get through the hotel itself.

• Remember the law of supply and demand. You can save big on hotel rooms by traveling in a destination’s off season or shoulder seasons, when rates typically drop, even at luxury properties.

• Look into group or long-stay discounts. If you come as part of a large group, you should be able to negotiate a bargain rate. Likewise, if you’re planning a long stay (at least 5 days), you might qualify for a discount. As a general rule, expect 1 night free after a 7-night stay.

• Sidestep excess surcharges and hidden costs. Many hotels have adopted the unpleasant practice of nickel-and-diming their guests with opaque surcharges. When you book a room, ask what is included in the room rate, and what is extra. Avoid dialing direct from hotel phones, which can have exorbitant rates. And don’t be tempted by the room’s minibar offerings: Most hotels charge through the nose for water, soda, and snacks. Finally, ask about local taxes and service charges, which can increase the cost of a room by 15% or more.

• Carefully consider your hotel’s meal plan. If you enjoy eating out and sampling the local cuisine, it makes sense to choose a Continental Plan (CP), which includes breakfast only, or a European Plan (EP), which doesn’t include any meals and allows you maximum flexibility. If you’re more interested in saving money, opt for a Modified American Plan (MAP), which includes breakfast and one meal, or the American Plan (AP), which includes three meals. If you must choose a MAP, see if you can get a free lunch at your hotel if you decide to do dinner out.

• Book an efficiency. A room with a kitchenette allows you to shop for groceries and cook your own meals. This is a big money saver, especially for families on long stays.

• Consider enrolling in hotel chains’ “frequent-stay” programs, which are upping the ante lately to win the loyalty of repeat customers. Frequent guests can now accumulate points or credits to earn free hotel nights, airline miles, in-room amenities, merchandise, tickets to concerts and events, discounts on sporting facilities—and even credit toward stock in the participating hotel, in the case of the Jameson Inn hotel group. Perks are awarded not only by many chain hotels and motels (Hilton HHonors, Marriott Rewards, and Wyndham ByRequest, to name a few), but by individual inns and B&Bs. Many chain hotels partner with other hotel chains, car-rental firms, airlines, and credit card companies to give consumers additional incentive to do repeat business.

For more tips on surfing for hotel deals online, visit Frommers.com.

Landing the Best Room

Somebody has to get the best room in the house. It might as well be you. You can start by joining the hotel’s frequent-guest program, which may make you eligible for upgrades. A hotel-branded credit card usually gives its owner “silver” or “gold” status in frequent-guest programs for free. Always ask about a corner room. They’re often larger and quieter, with more windows and light, and they often cost the same as standard rooms. When you make your reservation, ask if the hotel is renovating; if it is, request a room away from the construction. Ask about nonsmoking rooms and rooms with views. Be sure to request your choice of twin, queen-, or king-size beds. If you’re a light sleeper, ask for a quiet room away from vending or ice machines, elevators, restaurants, bars, and dance clubs. Ask for a room that has been recently renovated or refurbished.

If you aren’t happy with your room when you arrive, ask for another one. Most lodgings will be willing to accommodate you.

In resort areas, ask the following questions before you book a room:

• What’s the view like? Cost-conscious travelers may be willing to pay less for a back room facing the parking lot, especially if they don’t plan to spend much time in their room.

• Does the room have air-conditioning or ceiling fans? Do the windows open? If they do, and the nighttime entertainment takes place alfresco, you may want to find out when showtime is over.

• What’s included in the price? Your room may be moderately priced, but if you’re charged for beach chairs, towels, sports equipment, and other amenities, you could end up spending more than you bargained for.

B&B Stays

Many travelers prefer to go the B&B route when touring Germany. This can be an inexpensive alternative to all those pricey hotels. However, some B&Bs, just as in America, are more luxurious than even a first-class hotel. Naturally, these come with a higher price tag. Breakfast, as promised in the name, is served, and often the staff at a B&B will pack you a picnic lunch if you’re staying over in the area and want to go hiking. In some cases, and only if arranged in advance, a home-cooked German dinner might be served.

For reservations, contact Bed & Breakfast Inns Online ( 800/215-7365 or 310/280-4363; www.bbonline.com) or BnB Finder.com ( 888/547-8226 or 212/432-7693; www.bnbfinder.com).

Bungalow, Villa & Apartment Rentals

Dozens of agencies handle such rentals, the best of which include At Home Abroad, Inc. ( 212/421-9165;www.athomeabroadinc.com). Drawbridge to Europe ( 888/268-1148;www.drawbridgetoeurope.com) offers vacation rentals in Mittel Europa, including not only Germany but also Switzerland and Austria. The staff will even rent you a private castle. Interhome ( 800/882-6864 or 954/791-8282; www.interhomeusa.com) offers properties in 21 countries, including Germany.

Castle Hotels

There are more Schlosshotels (castle hotels) in Germany than anywhere else in Europe. After unification, many castles in the old East Germany were restored and opened to the public. Some are rather basic, having more character than comfort, but others are luxurious, with antiques such as four-poster beds and a baronial atmosphere, often harking back 3 centuries or more. Most of them have installed modern plumbing. Some visitors with a sense of the romantic book castle hotel packages throughout Germany. The best source for such vacations is Euro-Connections ( 800/645-3876 in the U.S.; www.traveldata.cc).

Farm Vacations

Growing in its appeal to tourists, a vacation down on the farm—Urlaub auf dem Bauernhof in German—cuts costs and is an adventure as well. Nearly every local tourist office has a list of farmhouses in its area that take in paying guests. Sometimes only bed-and-breakfast is offered; at other places a farm-style home-cooked dinner can be included if you wish. For more information, you can contact DLG (German Agricultural Association) at 069/247880 (www.landtourismus.de).

House Swapping

House swapping is becoming a more popular and viable means of travel; you stay in their place, they stay in yours, and you both get a more authentic and personal view of a destination, the opposite of the escapist retreat many hotels offer. Try HomeLink International (www.homelink.org), the largest and oldest home-swapping organization, founded in 1952, with more than 11,000 listings worldwide ($115 yearly membership). HomeExchange.com ($9.95 a month for 6,000 listings) and InterVac.com ($100 for more than 10,000 listings) are also reliable.

Romantik Hotels

Throughout Germany you’ll encounter hotels with a “Romantik” in their names. This is not a chain, but a voluntary association of small inns and guesthouses that have only one theme in common: They are usually old and charming, and romantic in architecture. If you like a traditional ambience as opposed to bandbox modern, then a Romantik hotel might be for you. The requirement is that the hotel be in a historic building (or at least one of vintage date) and personally managed by the owner. Usually you get a regional cuisine and good, personal service, along with an old-fashioned setting and cozy charm. Sometimes the plumbing could be better, and standards of comfort vary widely, but all of them have been inspected.

For more information, contact Romantik Hotels and Restaurants ( 800/650-8018 in the U.S., or 069/6612340 in Germany; www.romantikhotels.com).

Spa Hotels

More than any other country in Europe, Germany has developed the spa process to a high art. The heyday of German spa construction coincided with the rise of the bourgeoisie in the 19th century, when a lavish series of resorts was built around the dozens of mineral springs bubbling from the soil. Many of these springs had been known since the Middle Ages, or even Roman times, and to each was attributed specific cures for arthritis, gout, infertility, hypertension, and gynecological problems. (The German word Kur—Kurort means “spa”—is derived from the Latin cura, meaning “care.”) Going to a spa became an intensely ritualized social experience.

Regardless of the various medical claims made at the spas of Germany, the real reason to go to any spa, in our view, is to momentarily escape the stress of everyday life.

For more information, contact Deutschen Heilbaderverbandes, Reinhardtstrasse 46, 10117 Berlin ( 030/2463629-0;www.deutscher-heilbaederverband.de).

Youth Hostels

Germany has some of the best and most modern youth hostels (Jugendherbergen) in the world—some 550 of them are scattered throughout the country. Reservations are imperative in all cases, but especially in July and August. Venues range from rather bleak modern buildings to old castles in bucolic settings.

For more information and requirements, contact DJH Service GmbH, Bismarckstrasse 8, 32756 Detmold ( 05231/74010;www.jugendherberge.de). Most hostels in Germany are affiliated with Hostelling International USA ( 301/495-1240;www.hiusa.org).

Fast Facts

Business Hours Most banks are open Monday to Friday 8:30am to 1pm and 2:30 to 4pm (Thurs to 5:30pm). Money exchanges at airports and border-crossing points are generally open daily from 6am to 10pm. Exchanges at border railroad stations are kept open for arrivals of all international trains. Most businesses are open Monday to Friday from 9am to 5pm and on Saturday from 9am to 1pm. Store hours can vary from town to town, but shops are generally open Monday to Friday 9 or 10am to 6 or 6:30pm (Thurs to 8:30pm). Saturday hours are generally from 9am to 1 or 2pm, except on the first Saturday of the month, when stores may remain open until 4pm.

Car Rental See “By Car” under “Getting Around,” earlier in this chapter.

Cellphones See “Mobile Phones,” later.

Crime See “Safety,” later.

Customs You can take into Germany most personal effects and the following items duty-free: one video camera or two still cameras with 10 rolls of film each; a portable radio, a tape recorder, and a laptop PC, provided they show signs of use; 400 cigarettes, 50 cigars, or 250 grams of tobacco; 2 liters of wine or 1 liter of liquor per person 18 and over; fishing gear; one bicycle; skis; tennis or squash racquets; and golf clubs.

Returning U.S. citizens who have been away for at least 48 hours can bring back, once every 30 days, US$800 worth of merchandise duty-free. You’ll be charged a flat rate of 4% duty on the next US$1,000 worth of purchases. Be sure to have your receipts handy. On mailed gifts, the duty-free limit is US$200. With some exceptions, you cannot bring fresh fruits and vegetables into the United States. For specifics on what you can bring back, download the invaluable free pamphlet Know Before You Go online at www.cbp.gov. Or contact the U.S. Customs & Border Protection (CBP), 1300 Pennsylvania Ave. NW, Washington, DC 20229 ( 877/287-8667), and request the pamphlet.

For a clear summary of Canadian rules, you can download the booklet I Declare at www.cbsa-asfc.gc.ca/publications. It is issued by Canada Border Services Agency ( 800/461-9999 in Canada, or 204/983-3500; www.cbsa-asfc.gc.ca). Canada allows a C$750 exemption, which can be used only once a year and only after an absence of 7 days. You’re allowed to bring back duty-free one carton of cigarettes, one can of tobacco, 40 imperial ounces of liquor, and 50 cigars. In addition, you’re allowed to mail gifts to Canada valued at less than C$60 a day, provided they’re unsolicited and don’t contain alcohol or tobacco (write on the package “Unsolicited gift, under C$60 value”). You should declare all valuables on the Y-38 form before departing Canada, including serial numbers of valuables you already own, such as expensive foreign cameras.

Citizens of the U.K. who are returning from an E.U. country will go through a separate Customs exit (called the “Blue Exit”). In essence, there is no limit on what you can bring back from an E.U. country, as long as the items are for personal use (including gifts) and you have already paid the necessary duty and tax. However, Customs law sets out guidance levels. If you bring in more than these levels, you may be asked to prove that the goods are for your use. Guidance levels on goods bought in the E.U. for your own use are 3,200 cigarettes, 200 cigars, 400 cigarillos, 3 kilograms of smoking tobacco, 10 liters of spirits, 90 liters of wine, 20 liters of fortified wine (such as port or sherry), and 110 liters of beer. For information, contact HM Revenue Customs at 0845/0109000 ( 02920/501261 from outside the U.K.), or consult their website at www.hmrc.gov.uk.

The duty-free allowance in Australia is A$900 or, for those 17 and under, A$450. Citizens can bring in 250 cigarettes or 250 grams of loose tobacco, and 2.25 liters of alcohol. If you’re returning with valuables you already own, such as foreign-made cameras, you should file form B263. A helpful brochure available from Australian consulates or Customs offices is Know Before You Go. For more information, call the Australian Customs Service at 1300/363263, or log on to www.customs.gov.au

The duty-free allowance for New Zealand is NZ$700. Citizens 18 and over can bring in 200 cigarettes, 50 cigars, or 250 grams of tobacco (or a mixture of all three if their combined weight doesn’t exceed 250g); plus 4.5 liters of wine and beer, or 1.125 milliliters of liquor. New Zealand currency does not carry import or export restrictions. Fill out a certificate of export, listing the valuables you are taking out of the country, so you can bring them back without paying duty. Most questions are answered in a free pamphlet available at New Zealand consulates and Customs offices: New Zealand Customs Guide for Travellers, Notice no. 4. For more information, contact New Zealand Customs Service, The Customhouse, 17–21 Whitmore St., Box 2218, Wellington ( 0800/428786 or 04/4736099 in New Zealand, or 04/4736099; www.customs.govt.nz).

Disabled Travelers Germany is one of the better countries for travelers with disabilities. All the large cities have excellent facilities. The local tourist offices can issue permits for drivers to allow them access to parking areas for people with disabilities. Newer hotels are more sensitive to the needs of those with disabilities, and the more expensive restaurants, in general, are wheelchair accessible.

Older, smaller towns may pose more of a problem, however, especially where the streets are cobblestone. Also, because of Germany’s many hills and endless flights of stairs, visitors with disabilities may have difficulty getting around outside of major cities, but conditions are slowly improving. If the areas you wish to visit seem inaccessible or you are not certain, you may want to consider taking an organized tour specifically designed to accommodate travelers with disabilities.

Organizations that offer assistance to travelers with disabilities include MossRehab ( 800/225-5667;www.mossresourcenet.org), which provides a library of accessible-travel resources online; Society for Accessible Travel & Hospitality (SATH; 212/447-7284;www.sath.org), which offers a wealth of travel resources for all types of disabilities and informed recommendations on destinations, access guides, travel agents, tour operators, vehicle rentals, and companion services; and the American Foundation for the Blind (AFB; 800/232-5463 or 212/502-7600; www.afb.org), a referral resource for those who are blind or visually impaired that provides information on traveling with Seeing Eye dogs.

Air Ambulance Card ( 877/4247633;www.airambulancecard.com) is now partnered with SATH and allows you to preselect top-notch hospitals in case of an emergency.

Access-Able Travel Source ( 303/232-2979;www.access-able.com) offers a comprehensive database on travel agents from around the world with experience in accessible travel; destination-specific access information; and links to such resources as service animals, equipment rentals, and access guides.

Many travel agencies offer customized tours and itineraries for travelers with disabilities. Among them are Flying Wheels Travel ( 507/451-5005;www.flyingwheelstravel.com) and Accessible Journeys ( 800/846-4537 or 610/521-0339; www.disabilitytravel.com).

Flying with Disability (www.flying-with-disability.org) is a comprehensive information source on airplane travel.

Also check out the quarterly magazine Emerging Horizons (www.emerginghorizons.com), available by subscription ($17 per year in the U.S.; $22 outside the U.S.).

The “Accessible Travel” link at Mobility-Advisor.com (www.mobility-advisor.com) offers a variety of travel resources to persons with disabilities.

British travelers should contact Holiday Care ( 0845/124-9971 in the U.K. only; www.holidaycare.org.uk) to access a wide range of travel information and resources for seniors and people with disabilities.

For more on organizations that offer resources to travelers with disabilities, go to Frommers.com.

Doctors Contact the International Association for Medical Assistance to Travelers (IAMAT; 716/754-4883 or 416/652-0137; www.iamat.org) for tips on travel and health concerns in Germany and lists of local, English-speaking doctors. You can find listings of reliable medical clinics in Germany at the International Society of Travel Medicine (www.istm.org).

Drinking Laws As in many European countries, drinking laws are flexible, enforced only if a problem develops. Officially, you must be 18 to consume any kind of alcoholic beverage. Bars and cafes rarely request proof of age. Drinking while driving, however, is treated as a very serious offense.

Driving Rules See “Getting Around,” earlier in this chapter.

Electricity In most places, the electricity is 220 volts AC (50 cycles). You will need a transformer and a plug that fits the German socket for your U.S. appliances. Many leading hotels will supply these.

Embassies & Consulates The following embassies and consulates are in Berlin. The embassy of the United States is at Pariser Platz 2 ( 030/83050;http://germany.usembassy.gov; U-Bahn: Brandenburger Tor), open Monday to Friday 8:30am to 3pm. The U.K. Embassy is at Wilhelmstrasse 70 ( 030/204570;http://ukingermany.fco.gov.uk/de; U-Bahn: Anhalter Bahnhof), open Monday to Friday 8am to 4:30pm. The Australian Embassy is at Wallstrasse 76–79 ( 030/8800880;www.germany.embassy.gov.au/beln/home.html; U-Bahn: Spittel-markt), open Monday to Thursday 8:30am to 5pm and Friday 8:30am to 4:15pm. The Canadian Embassy is at Leipziger Platz 17 ( 030/203120;www.canadainternational.gc.ca; U-Bahn: Potsdamer Platz), open Monday to Friday 9am to noon. The Irish Embassy is at Friedrichstrasse 200 ( 030/220720;www.embassyofireland.de; U-Bahn: Uhlandstrasse), open Monday to Friday 9:30am to noon and 2:30 to 3:45pm. The New Zealand Embassy is at Friedrichstrasse 60 ( 030/206210;www.nzembassy.com; U-Bahn: Friedrichstrasse), open Monday to Friday 9am to 1pm and 2 to 5:30pm.

Emergencies Throughout Germany the emergency number for police is 110; for fire or to call an ambulance, dial 112.

Family Travel To locate accommodations, restaurants, and attractions that are particularly kid-friendly, look for the “Kids” icon throughout this guide.

Health Germany should not pose any major health hazards. The heavy cuisine may give some travelers mild diarrhea, so take along some antidiarrhea medicine and moderate your eating habits. The water is safe to drink throughout Germany; however, don’t drink from mountain streams, no matter how clear and pure the water looks.

German medical facilities are among the best in the world. If a medical emergency arises, your hotel staff can usually put you in touch with a reliable doctor. If not, contact the American embassy or a consulate; each one maintains a list of English-speaking doctors. Medical and hospital services aren’t free, so be sure that you have appropriate insurance coverage before you travel.

If you suffer from a chronic illness, consult your doctor before your departure. Pack prescription medications in your carry-on luggage and carry them in their original containers, with pharmacy labels—otherwise they won’t make it through airport security. Carry the generic name of prescription medicines, in case a local pharmacist is unfamiliar with the brand name.

For conditions such as epilepsy, diabetes, or heart problems, wear a MedicAlert Identification Tag ( 888/633-4298;www.medicalert.org), which will immediately alert doctors to your condition and give them access to your records through MedicAlert’s 24-hour hot line.

Insurance For travel overseas, most U.S. health plans (including Medicare and Medicaid) do not provide coverage, and the ones that do often require you to pay for services upfront and reimburse you only after you return home.

As a safety net, you may want to buy travel medical insurance. If you require additional medical insurance, try MEDEX Assistance ( 800/732-5309 or 410/453-6300;www.medexassist.com) or Travel Assistance International ( 800/821-2828;www.travelassistance.com; for general information on services, call Worldwide Assistance Services, Inc. at 800/777-8710;www.worldwideassistance.com).

Canadians should check with their provincial health-plan offices or call Health Canada ( 866/225-0709;www.hc-sc.gc.ca) to find out the extent of their coverage and what documentation and receipts they must take home if they are treated overseas.

Travelers from the U.K. should carry their European Health Insurance Card (EHIC), which replaced the E111 form as proof of entitlement to free/reduced-cost medical treatment abroad ( 0845/605-0707;www.ehic.org.uk). Note, however, that the EHIC covers only “necessary medical treatment”; for repatriation costs, lost money, baggage, or cancellation, travel insurance from a reputable company should always be sought. Call 0870/033-9985 or visit www.travelinsuranceweb.com for quotes from several companies.

Travel Insurance The cost of travel insurance varies widely, depending on the destination, the cost and length of your trip, your age and health, and the type of trip you’re taking, but expect to pay between 5% and 8% of the vacation itself. You can get estimates from various providers through InsureMyTrip.com ( 800/487-4722). Enter your trip cost and dates, your age, and other information, for prices from more than a dozen companies.

U.K. citizens and their families who make more than one trip abroad per year may find that an annual travel insurance policy works out cheaper. Check www.moneysupermarket.com ( 0845/345-5708), which compares prices across a wide range of providers for single- and multitrip policies.

Most big travel agents offer their own insurance and will probably try to sell you their package when you book a holiday. Think before you sign. Britain’s Consumers’ Association recommends that you insist on seeing the policy and reading the fine print before buying travel insurance. The Association of British Insurers ( 020/7600-3333;www.abi.org.uk) gives advice by phone and publishes “Holiday Insurance,” a free guide to policy provisions and prices. You might also shop around for better deals: Try Columbus Direct ( 0870/033-9988;www.columbusdirect.net).

Trip-Cancellation Insurance Trip-cancellation insurance will help retrieve your money if you have to back out of a trip or depart early, or if your travel supplier goes bankrupt. Trip cancellation traditionally covers such events as sickness, natural disasters, and State Department advisories. The latest news in trip-cancellation insurance is the availability of expanded hurricane coverage and the “any-reason” cancellation coverage—which costs more but covers cancellations made for any reason. You won’t get back 100% of your prepaid trip cost, but you’ll be refunded a substantial portion. TravelSafe ( 888/885-7233;www.travelsafe.com) offers both types of coverage. Expedia also offers any-reason cancellation coverage for its air-hotel packages. For details, contact one of the following recommended insurers: Access America ( 800/284-8300; www.accessamerica.com), Travel Guard International ( 800/826-4919; www.travelguard.com), Travel Insured International ( 800/243-3174; www.travelinsured.com), and Travelex Insurance Services ( 800/228-9792; www.travelex-insurance.com).

Internet & Wi-Fi Many hotels, cafes, and retailers are signing on as Wi-Fi “hot spots.” Boingo (www.boingo.com) and Wayport (wayport.com) have set up networks in airports and high-class hotel lobbies. IPass providers (see below) also give you access to a few hundred wireless hotel lobby setups. To locate other hot spots that provide free wireless networks in cities in Germany, go to www.jiwire.com.

A few thousand hotels in Germany now offer free high-speed Internet access. In addition, major Internet service providers (ISPs) have local access numbers around the world, allowing you to go online by placing a local call. The iPass network also has dial-up numbers around the world. You’ll have to sign up with an iPass provider, who will then tell you how to set up your computer for your destination(s). For a list of iPass providers, go to www3.ipass.com and click on “Individuals Buy Now.” One solid provider is i2roam ( 866/811-6209 or 920/233-5863; www.i2roam.com).

To find cybercafes, check www.cybercaptive.com and www.cybercafe.com. Cybercafes can be found on almost every business street in large cities.

Aside from formal cybercafes, most youth hostels and public libraries have Internet access.

Language German, of course, is the official language, but English is widely understood. Germans start learning English in grade school.

LGBT Travelers Although Germany is one of the “gayest” countries of Europe, there is also prejudice and hostility here. Violence against gays and foreigners (especially nonwhite) is not unknown. On the other hand, homosexuality is widely accepted by a vast number of the country’s millions, especially young people. All major cities have a wide and varied gay and lesbian nightlife. Keep in mind that western Germany is far more gay-friendly than the more isolated outposts of the former East Germany. The legal minimum age for consensual homosexual sex is 18.

The International Gay and Lesbian Travel Association (IGLTA; 954/630-1637;www.iglta.org) is the trade association for the gay and lesbian travel industry and offers an online directory of gay- and lesbian-friendly travel businesses; go to its website and click on “Members.”

Many agencies offer tours and travel itineraries designed specifically for gay and lesbian travelers. Now, Voyager ( 800/255-6951;www.nowvoyager.com) is a well-known San Francisco–based gay-owned and -operated travel service. Olivia Cruises & Resorts ( 800/631-6277;www.olivia.com) charters entire resorts and ships for exclusive lesbian vacations and offers smaller group experiences for both gay and lesbian travelers. Gay.com ( 415/834-6500;http://daily.gay.com/travel) provides regularly updated information about gay-owned, gay-oriented, and gay-friendly lodging, dining, sightseeing, nightlife, and shopping establishments in every important destination worldwide.

The Canadian website GayTraveler (www.gaytraveler.ca) offers ideas and advice for gay travel all over the world.

The following travel guides are available at many bookstores, or you can order them from any online bookseller: Spartacus International Gay Guide, 38th edition (Bruno Gmünder Verlag; www.spartacusworld.com/gayguide); and the Damron guides (www.damron.com), with separate annual books for gay men and lesbians.

For more gay and lesbian travel resources, visit Frommers.com.

Mail Street mailboxes are painted yellow. It costs 1.70€ for the first 5 grams (about 1⁄5 oz.) to send an airmail letter to the United States or Canada, and 1€ for postcards. All letters to the U.K. cost .70€.

Medical Requirements Unless you’re arriving from an area known to be suffering from an epidemic (particularly cholera or yellow fever), inoculations or vaccinations are not required for entry into Germany.

Mobile Phones The three letters that define much of the world’s wireless capabilities are GSM, which stands for Global System for Mobiles, a big, seamless network that makes for easy cross-border cellphone use. In general, reception is good. But you’ll need a Subscriber Identity Module (SIM) card. This is a small chip that gives you a local phone number and plugs you into a regional network. In the U.S., T-Mobile and AT&T Wireless use this quasi-universal system; in Canada, Microcell and some Rogers customers are GSM, and all Europeans and most Australians use GSM. Unfortunately, per-minute charges can be high.

For many, renting a phone is a good idea. While you can rent a phone from any number of overseas sites, including kiosks at airports and at car-rental agencies, we suggest renting the phone before you leave home. North Americans can rent one before leaving home from InTouch USA ( 800/872-7626 or 703/222-7161; www.intouchglobal.com) or RoadPost ( 888/290-1616 or 905/272-5665; www.roadpost.com). InTouch will also, for free, advise you on whether your existing phone will work overseas.

Buying a phone can be economically attractive, as many nations have cheap prepaid phone systems. Once you arrive at your destination, stop by a local cellphone shop and get the cheapest package; you’ll probably pay less than $100 for a phone and a starter calling card. Local calls may be as low as 10¢ per minute, and in Germany incoming calls are free.

Money & Costs The euro (€) is the single European currency of Germany and other participating countries. Exchange rates of participating countries are locked into a common currency fluctuating against the dollar.

The major cities of Germany are some of the world’s most expensive. So, if you want to see the country without breaking the bank, you may want to cut short your time in Frankfurt, Munich, or Berlin and concentrate on regional capitals such as Freiburg in the Black Forest, where you can cut your travel cost by anywhere from 20% to 40%. You may also want to consider a rail pass.

Although prices in Germany are high, you generally get good value for your money. The inflation rate has remained low. Hotels are usually clean and comfortable, and restaurants generally offer good cuisine and ample portions made with quality ingredients. Trains are fast and on time, and most service personnel treat you with respect.

Many people come to Germany just for winter sports. The most expensive resorts are places like Garmisch-Partenkirchen. However, if you avoid the chic places, you can enjoy winter fun at a moderate cost. Some of the winter spots in the Bavarian Alps that haven’t been overrun by the beautiful people give you great value for your money. And prices in a village next to a resort are often 30% lower than at the resort itself.

In Germany, many prices for children (generally defined as ages 6–17) are considerably lower than for adults. And fees for children 5 and younger are often waived entirely.

Frommer’s lists exact prices in the local currency. The currency conversions quoted above were correct at press time. However, rates fluctuate, so before departing consult a currency exchange website such as www.oanda.com/currency/converter to check up-to-the-minute rates.

ATMs The easiest way to get cash away from home is from an ATM (automated teller machine), sometimes referred to as a Geldautomat. Note: Remember that many banks impose a fee every time you use a card at another bank’s ATM, and that fee can be higher for international transactions. In addition, the bank from which you withdraw cash may charge its own fee. For international withdrawal fees, ask your bank.

Note: Banks that are members of the Global ATM Alliance charge no transaction fees for cash withdrawals at other Alliance member ATMs; these include Bank of America, Scotiabank (Canada, Caribbean, and Mexico), Barclays (U.K. and parts of Africa), Deutsche Bank (Germany, Poland, Spain, and Italy), and BNP Paribas (France).

Credit Cards Credit cards are another safe way to carry money. They also provide a convenient record of all your expenses, and they generally offer relatively good exchange rates. You can withdraw cash advances from your credit cards at banks or ATMs, but high fees make credit card cash advances a pricey way to get cash. Remember that you’ll pay interest from the moment of your withdrawal, even if you pay your monthly bills on time. Also, note that many banks now assess a 1% to 3% “transaction fee” on all charges you incur abroad (whether you’re using the local currency or your native currency).

In Germany, American Express, Diners Club, MasterCard, and Visa are commonly accepted, with the latter two cards predominating.

Beware of hidden credit-card fees while traveling. Check with your credit or debit card issuer to see what fees, if any, will be charged for overseas transactions. Recent reform legislation in the U.S., for example, has curbed some exploitative lending practices. But many banks have responded by increasing fees in other areas, including fees for customers who use credit and debit cards while out of the country—even if those charges were made in U.S. dollars. Fees can amount to 3% or more of the purchase price. Check with your bank before departing to avoid any surprise charges on your statement.

For help with currency conversions, tip calculations, and more, download Frommer’s convenient Travel Tools app for your mobile device. Go to www.frommers.com/go/mobile and click on the “Travel Tools” icon.

Passports Visas are not needed by citizens of the U.S., Canada, Ireland, Australia, New Zealand, or the U.K. for visits of less than 3 months. You do need a valid passport, unless you’re a citizen of the E.U., EEA or Switzerland (in which case you need only an identity card, though we recommend you always carry a passport anyway).

Passport Offices

Australia Australian Passport Information Service ( 131-232, or visit www.passports.gov.au).

Canada Passport Office, Department of Foreign Affairs and International Trade, Ottawa, ON K1A 0G3 ( 800/567-6868; www.ppt.gc.ca).

Ireland Passport Office, Setanta Centre, Molesworth Street, Dublin 2 ( 01/671-1633; www.foreignaffairs.gov.ie).

New Zealand Passports Office, Department of Internal Affairs, 47 Boulcott Street, Wellington, 6011 ( 0800/225-050 in New Zealand or 04/474-8100; www.passports.govt.nz).

United Kingdom Visit your nearest passport office, major post office, or travel agency or contact the Identity and Passport Service (IPS), 89 Eccleston Square, London, SW1V 1PN ( 0300/222-0000; www.ips.gov.uk).

United States To find your regional passport office, check the U.S. State Department website (travel.state.gov/passport) or call the National Passport Information Center ( 877/487-2778) for automated information.

Police Throughout the country, dial 110 for emergencies.

Safety Overall, the security risk to travelers in Germany is low. However, Germany experiences a number of demonstrations every year on a variety of political and economic themes. These demonstrations have a tendency to spread and turn violent, and anyone in the general area can become the victim of a random attack. Prior police approval is required for public demonstrations in Germany, and police oversight is routinely provided to ensure adequate security for participants and passersby. Nonetheless, situations may develop that could pose a threat to public safety. All foreign visitors are cautioned to avoid the area around protests and demonstrations and to check local media for updates on the situation.

In addition, hooligans, most often young and intoxicated “skinheads,” have been known to harass or even attack people whom they believe to be foreigners or members of rival youth groups. While U.S. citizens have not been specific targets, several Americans have reported that they were assaulted for racial reasons or because they appeared “foreign.”

Violent crime is rare in Germany, but it can occur, especially in larger cities or high-risk areas such as train stations. Most incidents of street crime consist of theft of unattended items and pickpocketing. You should take the same precautions against becoming a crime victim as you would in any city.

Report the loss or theft abroad of your passport immediately to the local police and the nearest embassy or consulate. If you are the victim of a crime while in Germany, in addition to reporting to local police, contact the nearest embassy or consulate for assistance. The embassy/consulate staff, for example, can assist you in finding appropriate medical care, contacting family members or friends, and explaining how funds could be transferred. Although the investigation and prosecution of the crime is solely the responsibility of local authorities, consular officers can help you understand the local criminal-justice process and find an attorney if needed.

Senior Travel Mention that you’re a senior when you make your travel reservations. Although all major U.S. airlines have canceled their senior-discount and coupon-book programs, many hotels still offer discounts for seniors. In most cities, people 60 and over qualify for reduced admission to theaters, museums, and other attractions, as well as discounted fares on public transportation.

Members of AARP, 601 E St. NW, Washington, DC 20049 ( 888/687-2277;www.aarp.org), get discounts on hotels, airfares, and car rentals. AARP offers members a wide range of benefits, including AARP The Magazine and a monthly newsletter. Anyone 50 and over can join.

Many reliable agencies and organizations target the 50-plus market. Exploritas’s ( 800/454-5768;www.exploritas.org) programs include a wide spectrum in Germany. The most popular is a 10-night program in both Berlin and Munich, where participants join local experts to learn about the history and culture of Germany. For the more athletic, there is a 13-night program spent biking along the Danube. Those interested in opera and classical music can join a 12-night cultural and fine arts program that takes place in the vibrant cultural cities of Berlin, Dresden, and Leipzig.

Recommended publications offering travel resources and discounts for seniors include the quarterly magazine Travel 50 & Beyond (www.travel50andbeyond.com) and the best-selling paperback Unbelievably Good Deals and Great Adventures That You Absolutely Can’t Get Unless You’re Over 50 (McGraw-Hill), by Joann Rattner Heilman.

Frommers.com offers more information and resources on travel for seniors

Smoking Check before lighting up. In general, you cannot smoke in most restaurants and many bars in Germany, but it is in a continuous state of flux and rules vary by federal state—in some cases smoking is banned by law and enforced. In other cases the official law is not enforced in bars of a certain size, or after the kitchen closes at restaurants that are open late and morph into a barlike setting as the night goes on. Throughout the country, smoking is banned in all public buildings and transport.

Taxes As a member of the European Union, Germany imposes a tax on most goods and services known as a value-added tax (VAT) or, in German, Mehrwertsteuer. Nearly everything is taxed at 16%, including vital necessities such as gas and luxury items such as jewelry. Food and books are taxed at 7%. VAT is included in the prices of restaurants and hotels. Goods for sale, such as cameras, also have the 16% tax already factored into the price. Stores that display a tax-free sticker will issue you a Tax-Free Shopping Check at the time of purchase. When leaving the country, have your check stamped by the German Customs Service as your proof of legal export. You can then get a cash refund at one of the Tax-Free Shopping Service offices in the major airports and many train stations, even at some of the bigger ferry terminals. Otherwise, you must send the checks to Tax-Free Shopping Service, Mengstrasse 19, 23552 Lübeck, Germany. If you want the payment to be credited to your bank card or your bank account, mention this. There is no airport departure tax.

Telephones The country code for Germany is 49. To call Germany from the United States, dial the international access code 011, then 49, then the city code, then the regular phone number. Note: The phone numbers listed in this book are to be used within Germany; when calling from abroad, omit the initial 0 in the city code.

For directory assistance: Dial 11837 if you’re looking for a number inside Germany, and dial 11834 for numbers to all other countries.

For operator assistance: If you need operator assistance in making a call, dial 0180/200-1033.

Local and long-distance calls may be placed from all post offices and from most public telephone booths, about half of which operate with phone cards, the others with coins. Phone cards are sold at post offices and newsstands in denominations of 6€ to 25€. Rates are measured in units rather than minutes. The farther the distance, the more units are consumed. Telephone calls made through hotel switchboards can double, triple, or even quadruple the base charges at the post office, so be alert to this before you dial. In some instances, post offices can send faxes for you, and many hotels offer Internet access—for free or for a small charge—to their guests.

German phone numbers are not standard. In some places, numbers have as few as three digits. In cities, one number may have five digits, whereas the phone next door might have nine. Germans also often hyphenate their numbers differently. But since all the area codes are the same, these various configurations should have little effect on your phone usage once you get used to the fact that numbers vary from place to place.

Be careful dialing toll-free numbers. Many companies maintain a service line beginning with 0180. However, these lines might appear to be toll-free but really aren’t, costing .12€ per minute. Other numbers that begin with 0190 carry a surcharge of 1.85€ per minute—or even more. Don’t be misled by calling a 1-800 number in the United States from Germany. This is not a toll-free call but costs about the same as an overseas call.

To call the U.S. or Canada from Germany, dial 01, followed by the country code (1), then the area code, and then the number. Alternatively, you can dial the various telecommunication companies in the States for cheaper rates. From Germany, the access number for AT&T is 0800/8880010, and for MCI, 0800/8888000. USA Direct can be used with all telephone cards and for collect calls. The number from Germany is 013/00010. Canada Direct can be used with Bell Telephone Cards and for collect calls. This number from Germany is 013/00014.

If you’re calling from a public pay phone in Germany, you must deposit the basic local rate.

Tipping If a restaurant bill says Bedienung, that means a service charge has already been added, so just round up to the nearest euro. If not, add 10% to 15%. Bellhops get 1€ per bag, as does the doorperson at your hotel, restaurant, or nightclub. Room-cleaning staffs get small tips in Germany, as do concierges who perform some special favors.

Toilets Use the word Toilette (pronounced twah-leh-tah). Women’s toilets are usually marked with an F for Frauen, and men’s toilets with an H for Herren. Germany, frankly, doesn’t have enough public toilets, except in transportation centers. The locals have to rely on bars, cafes, or restaurants—and using them isn’t always appreciated if you’re not a paying customer.

VAT See “Taxes,” above.

Visas See “Passports,” above.

Visitor Information All cities and nearly all larger towns in Germany have tourist offices. The German National Tourist Board headquarters is at Beethovenstrasse 69, 60325 Frankfurt am Main ( 069/751903;www.germany-tourism.de or www.cometogermany.com).

In the U.S., they can be reached at 122 E. 42nd St., Ste. 2000, New York, NY 10017 ( 212/661-7200).

In Canada, tourist offices are at 480 University Ave., Ste. 1500, Toronto, ON M5G 1V2 ( 877/315-6237 or 416/968-1685). In the U.K., you can write P.O. Box 2695, London W1A ETN ( 020/7317-0808).

Water See “Health,” earlier.

Wi-Fi See “Internet & Wi-Fi,” earlier.

Useful Terms & Phrases

Getting There & Getting Around

I am looking for… Ich suche…

…a porter. …einen Träger für mein Gepäck.

…the check-in counter. …den Abfertigungsschalter.

…the ticket counter. …den Kartenschalter.

…arrivals. …den Ankunftsbereich.

…departures. …den Abreisebereich.

…the waiting area. …den Wartebereich.

…the men’s restroom. …die Herrentoilette.

…the women’s restroom. …die Damentoilette.

…the police station. …die Polizeidienststelle.

…a security guard. …einen Sicherheitsbeamten.

…the smoking area. …den Raucherbereich.

…the information booth. …den Informationsstand.

…a public telephone. …ein öffentliches Telefon.

…an ATM. …einen Geldautomaten.

…baggage claim. …die Gepäckausgabe.

…a luggage cart. …einen Gepäckwagen.

…a currency exchange. …eine Geldwechselstube.

…a café. …ein Café.

…a restaurant. …ein Restaurant.

…a bar. …eine Bar.

…a bookstore or newsstand. eine Buchhandlung oder einen Zeitungsstand.

…a duty-free shop. …einen Duty-Free-Shop.

Is there Internet access here? Gibt es hier einen Internetzugang?

I’d like to page someone. Ich möchte jemanden ausrufen lassen.

Do you accept credit cards? Akzeptieren Sie Kreditkarten?

Common Airport Signs

Ankunft Arrivals

Abreise Departures

Terminal Terminal

Gate Gate

Tickets Ticketing

Zoll Customs

Gepäckausgabe Baggage Claim

Drücken Push

Ziehen Pull

Rauchen verboten No Smoking

Eingang Entrance

Ausgang Exit

Herren Men’s

Damen Women’s

Pendelbusse Shuttle Buses

Taxis Taxis

Security Lingo

Bitte ziehen Sie Ihre Schuhe aus. Please remove your shoes.

Ziehen Sie Ihre Jacke aus. Remove your jacket / sweater.

Legen Sie Ihren Schmuck ab. Remove your jewelry.

Legen Sie Ihre Taschen auf das Band. Place your bags on the conveyor belt.

Treten Sie zur Seite. Step to the side.

Wir müssen Sie abtasten. We have to do a hand search.

Road Signs

Geschwindigkeitsbegrenzung Speed Limit

Stopp Stop

Vorfahrt gewähren Yield

Gefahr Danger

Sackgasse No Exit

Einbahnstrasse One Way

Einfahrt verboten Do Not Enter

Strasse gesperrt Road Closed

Maut Toll

Nur Bargeld Cash Only

Parken verboten No Parking

Parkgebühr Parking Fee

Parkhaus Parking Garage

General Terms

Basic Greetings & Expressions

Hello. Hallo.

How are you? Wie geht es Ihnen?

I’m fine, thanks. Mir geht es gut, danke.

And you? Und Ihnen?

My name is ____. Ich heiße ____.

And yours? Wie heißen Sie?

It’s a pleasure to meet you. Freut mich, Sie kennen zu lernen.

Please. Bitte.

Thank you. Danke.

Yes. Ja.

No. Nein.

Okay. OK.

No problem. Kein Problem.

I’m sorry, I don’t understand. Entschuldigung, ich verstehe Sie nicht.

Would you speak slower please? Könnten Sie bitte etwas langsamer sprechen?

Would you speak louder please? Könnten Sie bitte etwas lauter sprechen?

Do you speak English? Sprechen Sie Englisch?

Do you speak any other languages? Sprechen Sie irgendeine andere Sprache?

I speak ____ better than German. Ich spreche besser ____ als Deutsch.

Would you spell that? Könnten Sie das bitte buchstabieren?

Would you please repeat that? Könnten Sie das bitte wiederholen?

Would you point that out in this dictionary? Könnten Sie mir das bitte in diesem Wörterbuch zeigen?

Common Words

Allee Avenue

Altes Rathaus Old town hall (a historical monument; no longer used as the headquarters of the city’s officials)

Altstadt Old part of a city or town

Anlage Park area

Apotheke Pharmacy

Auf Wiedersehen Goodbye

Ausgang Exit

Bad Spa (also bath)

Bahn Railroad, train, course

Bahnhof Railroad station

Berg Mountain

Bitte Please

Brücke Bridge

Burg Fortified castle

Danke Thank you

Dom Cathedral

Domplatz Cathedral square

Drogerie Shop selling cosmetics, sundries

Eingang/Einfahrt Entrance

Eintritt Admission

Fahrrad Bicycle

Flughafen Airport

Gasse Lane

Gasthaus Inn, tavern, restaurant

Gasthof Inn

Gutbürgerliche Küche German home cooking

Hallo Hello

Hauptbahnhof Main railroad station

Hotelgarni Hotel that serves no meals or serves breakfast only

Insel Island

Kammer Room (in public building)

Kapelle Chapel

Kaufhaus Department store

Kino Cinema

Kirche Church

Kloster Monastery

Kneipe Bar for drinking; may serve snacks

Konditorei Cafe for coffee and pastries

Kunst Art

Land State

Marktplatz Market square

Neue Küche Cuisine moderne

Neues Rathaus New town hall (the seat of current city business)

Neustadt New part of city or town

Palatinate A region of Germany bordering France

Platz Square

Polizei Police

Postamt Post office

Rathaus Town or city hall

Ratskeller Restaurant in a Rathaus cellar serving traditional German food

Reisebüro Travel agency

Residenz Palace

Schauspielhaus Theater for plays

See Lake (der See) or sea (die See)

Seilbahn Cable car

Speisekarte Menu

Spielbank Casino

Stadt Town, city

Stadtbahn (S-Bahn) Commuter railroad

Steg Footbridge

Strasse Street

Strassenbahn Streetcar, tram

Tagesmenu Menu of the day

Tankstelle Filling station

Teller Platter

Tor Gateway

Turm Tower

Ufer Shore, riverbank

Untergrundbahn (U-Bahn) Subway, underground transportation system

Verkehrsamt Tourist office

Weg Road

Weinstube Wine bar or tavern serving meals

Zimmer Room

Menu Terms

Meats & Poultry (Wurst, Fleisch & Geflügel)

Aufschnitt Cold cuts

Beefsteak Hamburger steak

Brathuhn Roasted chicken

Bratwurst Grilled sausage

Eisbein Pigs’ knuckles

Ente Duck

Frankfurter Hot dog

Gans Goose

Hammel Mutton

Kalb Veal

Kassler Rippchen Pork chops

Lamm Lamb

Leber Liver

Ragout Stew

Rinderbraten Roast beef

Rindfleisch Beef

Sauerbraten Marinated beef

Schinken Ham

Schnitzel Cutlet

Schweinebraten Roast pork

Tafelspitz Boiled beef usually served with applesauce and horseradish—a famous staple of Austria

Truthahn Turkey

Wiener schnitzel Breaded veal cutlet

Wurst Sausage

Fish (Fisch)

Aal Eel

Forelle Trout

Hecht Pike

Karpfen Carp

Lachs Salmon

Makrele Mackerel

Muschel Mussel

Rheinsalm Rhine salmon

Schellfisch Haddock

Seezunge Sole

Eggs (Eier)

Eier in der Schale Boiled eggs

Mit Speck With bacon

Rühreier Scrambled eggs

Spiegeleier Fried eggs

Verlorene Eier Poached eggs

Vegetables (Gemüse)

Artischocken Artichokes

Blumenkohl Cauliflower

Bohnen Beans

Bratkartoffeln Fried potatoes

Champignon Mushroom

Erbsen Peas

Grüne Bohnen Green or string beans

Gurken Cucumbers

Karotten Carrots

Kartoffel Potato

Kartoffelbrei Mashed potatoes

Kartoffelsalat Potato salad

Knödel Dumplings

Kohl Cabbage

Reis Rice

Rettich Radish

Rote Rüben Beets

Rotkraut Red cabbage

Salat Lettuce

Salzkartoffeln Boiled potatoes

Sellerie Celery

Spargel Asparagus

Spinat Spinach

Steinpilze Boletus mushrooms

Tomaten Tomatoes

Weisse Rüben Turnips

Desserts (Nachtisch)

Auflauf Soufflé

Bienenstich Honey almond cake

Blatterteiggebäck Puff pastry

Bratapfel Baked apple

Dolce di Castagne Chestnut roll

Eis Ice cream

Kaffeecreme Coffee mousse

Käse Cheese

Kirschtorte Black Forest cake

Kompott Stewed fruit

Obstkuchen Fruit tart

Obstsalat Fruit salad

Pfannkuchen Sugared pancakes

Pflaumenkompott Stewed plums

Schlagsahne Whipped cream

Schokolademus Chocolate mousse

Tarte Tatin A tart filled with, most often, apples

Topfenpalatschinken Cottage cheese pancakes

Zwetschkenknodel Plum dumplings

Fruits (Obst)

Ananas Pineapple

Apfel Apple

Apfelsine Orange

Banane Banana

Birne Pear

Erdbeeren Strawberries

Himberren Raspberries

Kirschen Cherries

Pfirsich Peach

Weintrauben Grapes

Zitrone Lemon

Beverages (Getränke)

Bier Beer

Ein dunkles A dark beer

Ein helles A light beer

Eine Tasse Kaffee A cup of coffee

Eine Tasse Tee A cup of tea

Eistee Ice tea

Geist Brandy

Hiesse Schokolade Hot chocolate

Kaffee Coffee

Kaffee mit Rahm/Milch/Zucker Coffee with cream/milk/sugar

Kaffee mit Suss-stoff Coffee with artificial sweetener

Kaffee Schwarz Black coffee

Koffeinfrei Decaffeinated coffee

Kräutertee Herb tea

Leicht Light (wine)

Likör Liqueur

Limonade Lemonade

Milch Milk

Mineralwasser Mineral water

Mit Eis With ice

Mit Wasser With water

Ohne Eis Without ice

Ohne Wasser Without water

Pur Straight

Rotwein Red wine

Saft Juice

Schaumwein Sparkling wine

Schnaps Schnapps

Schokolade Chocolate

Soda Club soda

Soda mit gas Soda with gas (to make sure your club soda is carbonated)

Süss Sweet (wine)

Tee mit Milch Tea with cream

Tee mit Zitrone Tea with lemon

Trocken Dry (wine)

Wasser Water

Weisswein White wine

Condiments & Table Items (Würze & Tafelgeschirr)

Brot Bread

Brötchen Rolls

Butter Butter

Eis Ice

Essig Vinegar

Flasche Bottle

Gabel Fork

Glas Glass

Kalte pikante sosse Ketchup

Löffel Spoon

Messer Knife

Öl Oil

Pfeffer Pepper

Platte Plate

Sahne Cream

Salat Zubereitung Salad dressing

Salz Salt

Senf Mustard

Tasse Cup

Teller Platter

Tischzeug Napkin

Zucker Sugar

Cooking Terms

Gebacken Baked

Gebraten Fried

Gedämpft Steamed

Gefüllt Stuffed

Gekocht Boiled

Geröstet Roasted

Gut durchgebraten Well done

Heiss Hot

Kaltes Cold

Mittep Medium

Nicht durchgebraten Rare

Paniert Breaded

Pochiert Poached

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Frankfurt, Germany: Frommer’s® Shortcuts

Table of Contents

Frankfurt

Essentials

Getting There

Visitor Information

City Layout

Getting Around

Exploring Frankfurt

The Top Attractions

Other Top Museums

Parks

Where to Eat

In the Center

In Westend

Across the Main

In the East End

Shopping

Art Galleries

Department Stores

Fashion

Jewelry

Porcelain

Entertainment & Nightlife

Nightlife

Sports & Outdoor Pursuits

Where to Stay

In the Old Town (Altstadt)

Around the Fairgrounds (Messe) & Main Station

In Westend

Across the Main

In the East End

On the Outskirts

Side Trips from Frankfurt

Aschaffenburg

Wiesbaden

Bad Homburg

The Best of Germany

The Best Experiences

The Best Museums

The Best Castles & Palaces

The Best Cathedrals

The Most Charming Small Villages

The Best Driving Tours

The Best Walks

The Best Biking

The Best Spas

The Best Luxury Hotels

The Best Small Inns & Hotels

The Best Restaurants

The Best Beer Halls & Taverns

The Best Shopping

Germany in Depth

Germany Today

Looking Back: German History

Early Days

The Holy Roman Empire

The Reformation & the Religious Wars

Napoleon Arrives

Bismarck & Prussia

World War I

Weimar Republic

The Rise of Nazism

World War II

Division of Germany

Fall of the Wall & Unification

Modern Germany

Art & Architecture

German Art

Architecture

Germany in Pop Culture

Books

Music

Film

Eating & Drinking

Regional Specialties

Beer & Wine

When to Go

Holidays

Responsible Travel

Tours

Biking

Cruises

Escorted General-Interest Tours

Golf

Hiking & Mountain Climbing

Planning Your Trip to Germany

Getting There

By Plane

By Train

By Car & Ferry

Via the Channel Tunnel

Getting Around

By Plane

By Train

By Car

By Bus

By Boat

Tips on Accommodations

Surfing for Hotels

Saving on Your Hotel Room

Landing the Best Room

B&B Stays

Bungalow, Villa & Apartment Rentals

Castle Hotels

Farm Vacations

House Swapping

Romantik Hotels

Spa Hotels

Youth Hostels

Fast Facts

Useful Terms & Phrases

Getting There & Getting Around

Common Airport Signs

Security Lingo

Road Signs

General Terms

Basic Greetings & Expressions

Common Words

Menu Terms

Meats & Poultry (Wurst, Fleisch & Geflügel)

Fish (Fisch)

Eggs (Eier)

Vegetables (Gemüse)

Desserts (Nachtisch)

Fruits (Obst)

Beverages (Getränke)

Condiments & Table Items (Würze & Tafelgeschirr)

Cooking Terms