About the Authors

Ever since packing his bag and leaving North Carolina, Christopher N. Anderson (chapters 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 15) has accumulated over thirteen years of traveling and writing experience. From crossing Siberia and sailing the Caribbean, to teaching English in Russia, Brazil, Switzerland, Austria and France, his diverse experiences have provided excellent fodder for his writing, featured in publications such as the Vienna Review, Frommer’s and Yanks Abroad. In addition to his traveling exploits, he has earned a Master’s in International Relations and speaks fluent French and German along with conversational Italian, Portuguese, Spanish, and Russian. More recently, he covered and reported live from the FIFA World Cup in South Africa.

Half-Swiss, half-American, Caroline Sieg’s (chapters 2, 4, 5, 14, 16, 17, 18, 19) relationship with Germany began with childhood trips to Munich to visit her Polish-German aunt. Later, she visited Berlin for the first time in 1989—two weeks after the Berlin Wall fell—and obtained her own piece of the wall. Later, she lived in Berlin and explored the often-overlooked northern part of the country. These days, she hangs her hat in London, but visits Germany as often as possible to indulge in Kaffee und Kuchen (coffee and cake), sniff out the best currywurst and explore the latest gallery opening.

Frommer’s Star Ratings, Icons & Abbreviations

Every hotel, restaurant, and attraction listing in this guide has been ranked for quality, value, service, amenities, and special features using a star-rating system. In country, state, and regional guides, we also rate towns and regions to help you narrow down your choices and budget your time accordingly. Hotels and restaurants are rated on a scale of zero (recommended) to three stars (exceptional). Attractions, shopping, nightlife, towns, and regions are rated according to the following scale: zero stars (recommended), one star (highly recommended), two stars (very highly recommended), and three stars (must-see).

In addition to the star-rating system, we also use seven feature icons that point you to the great deals, in-the-know advice, and unique experiences that separate travelers from tourists. Throughout the book, look for:

special finds—those places only insiders know about

fun facts—details that make travelers more informed and their trips more fun

kids—best bets for kids, and advice for the whole family

special moments—those experiences that memories are made of

overrated—places or experiences not worth your time or money

insider tips—great ways to save time and money

great values—where to get the best deals

The following abbreviations are used for credit cards:

AE American Express

DISC Discover

V Visa

DC Diners Club

MC MasterCard

The Rhineland

Few rivers can claim such an important role in the growth of a nation as the Rhine. The Rhine rises in Switzerland and ultimately flows through the Netherlands in its progress to the sea, but most of its 1,370km (850 miles) snake through the mountains and plains of Germany. For more than 2,000 years, it has been a chief trade route, its deep waters enabling modern seagoing vessels to travel downstream from the North Sea as far as Cologne.

From its earliest times, the Rhine has also been a main road for religious, intellectual, and artistic ideas. It has been called a “triumphal avenue of the muses,” and a trip along its banks today reveals endless treasures.

From Mainz north to Koblenz, the winding river cuts through steep vine-covered hillsides dotted with towns whose names are synonymous with fine German wine. Here you’ll find the dramatic Lorelei, the legendary rock from which a siren lured men to their doom. The saga of The Nibelungenlied, the best known of the Rhine legends, is associated with the topography from the Siebengebirge (the Seven Mountains) near Bonn, where Siegfried slew the dragon, to the city of Worms, where Brunhild plotted against the dragon slayer.

The Rhine is also the home of many of Germany’s largest and most modern cities. Cologne (Köln) and Düsseldorf vie for trade and tourism. Cologne is also a common starting point for boat tours of the river.

Roadways along the Rhine tend to be heavily trafficked, so allow adequate time if you’re driving. Main roads hug both the left and the right banks of the river, and at many points you’ll come across car ferries that can take you across. The most scenic stretch for driving is the mid-Rhine, between Koblenz and Mainz. EuroCity and InterCity trains connect all the major cities, including Cologne, Düsseldorf, Bonn, and Mainz. Rail service also extends as far north as Hamburg and as far south as Munich.

Watch on the rhine

The Rhine carries more freight than any other river in Europe, and its once famous salmon were caught at the rate of 250,000 annually. But by the 1950s the river had simply become too poisonous for the fish to survive. By the 1970s and 1980s, the fabled Rhine was called “the sewer of Europe.” That has now changed and the salmon are back. Billions of euros spent on water-treatment plants led to a cleaner river. However, the salmon you see today heroically leaping about aren’t the same salmon of yore. The new salmon were brought in from Ireland, France, Scotland, and Scandinavia. Therefore, we must rely on old cookbooks to tell us of the glorious taste of the salmon Rhinelanders once enjoyed. One species of small crab is not as welcome. This alien amphipod that came from the Danube is now spreading to all the major rivers of Germany, including the Rhine, devouring native species at a rapid rate, and reducing biodiversity.

Speyer ★

The Rhineland

93km (58 miles) S of Mainz, 21km (13 miles) SW of Heidelberg

One of the oldest Rhine cities, Speyer celebrated its 2,000th jubilee in 1990. It became a significant religious center early on when the Diet of Speyer, in 1529, united the followers of Luther in a protest against the Church of Rome.

Essentials

Getting There

By Train Trains reach Speyer only by connections at Mannheim. The trip from Frankfurt takes 1 to 1 1/2 hours; from Munich, 3 1/2 to 4 hours. Call 01805/996633 for schedules (www.bahn.de).

cruising the Mythically Rich Rivers of Germany

Increasing numbers of travelers are opting for views of some of the most legendary panoramas in Germany directly from the deck chairs of yachts and cruise ships. We highly recommend one in particular.

Viking River Cruises, 5700 Canoga Ave., Woodland Hills, CA 91367 ( 800/304-9616;www.vikingrivers.com), is the world’s largest river cruise line. It maintains a total of 14 river cruisers, each designed for between 100 and 230 passengers. Efficient and, in some cases, infused with touches of luxury, the cruises traverse the muddy waters of the Rhine between Amsterdam and Basel (Switzerland), traveling for between 8 and 15 nights. For views of Germany’s eastern regions, cruises along the Elbe usually begin in Magdeburg and end in Decin, on the border of the Czech Republic, and focus heavily on day trips through the majestic core of such revered cities as Dresden.

The per-person rate, depending on the onboard accommodations and the season, ranges from $184 to $457 per day double occupancy. Onboard attendants deliver commentaries in several languages (including English) of the sights and monuments en route. Food is served at tables for between four and eight diners, cruise-ship-style. All meals, onboard lodgings, and shore excursions are included in the price.

By Bus About one bus per hour arrives from Heidelberg. Regional service is provided by BRN Busverkehr Rhein-Neckar GmbH at Ludwigshafen ( 0621/12003;www.brn.de).

By Car You can drive from Frankfurt in about an hour, from Munich in about 4 hours. Access is by the A61 Autobahn east and west connecting with Route 9 south.

Visitor Information

For information, go to the Verkehrsamt, Maximilianstrasse 13 ( 06232/142392;www.speyer.de). It’s open November to March Monday to Friday 9am to 5pm, and Saturday 10am to noon; and April to October Monday to Friday 9am to 5pm, Saturday 10am to 3pm, and Sunday 10am to 2pm.

Getting Around

Walking city tours in English and other languages are available from April 1 to November 30, regularly on Saturday and Sunday. The walking tour costs 3.60€ per person. The tour leaves at 11am at the tourist information office (see above).

Exploring Speyer

Nothing brings back the medieval German empire as much as the Kaiserdom (Imperial Cathedral) ★★ in Speyer ( 06232/1020), the greatest building of its time. This cathedral, consecrated in the early 11th century, is the largest Romanesque edifice in Germany. Having weathered damage by fires, wars, and restorations, the cathedral was finally brought back to its original shape during a restoration that ran from 1957 to 1961. When you enter the church through the single west door set in a stepped arch, you’re at once caught up in the vastness of its proportions; the whole length of the nave and east chancel opens up, lit by the muted daylight from above. The church contains the royal tombs of four emperors, three empresses, and four German kings, as well as a row of bishops’ tombs. It is open April to October Monday to Friday 9am to 7pm, Saturday 9am to 6pm, and Sunday 1:30 to 6pm; off-season hours are daily from 9am to 5pm.

Other attractions include the Historisches Museum der Pfalz (Palatinate Historical Museum; 06232/13250;www.museum.speyer.de), whose main attraction is the Domschatz, or cathedral treasury. Inaugurated in 1910, this museum is housed in a castle with four wings and lies next to the cathedral. In all, there are 300,000 artifacts here related to the history of the Palatinate and the city of Speyer. Relics date from prehistoric times, with a strong emphasis on the Roman and medieval eras.

On-site is the Wein Museum (Wine Museum), with exhibits showing how the Romans produced their vino. The world’s oldest bottle of wine (ca. A.D. 300) is also exhibited. Objects found in tombs of former emperors under the Dom are exhibited in the treasury. The most celebrated exhibit is the Bronze Age Golden Hat of Schifferstadt. This is a golden, cone-shaped object used in religious celebrations in ancient times. The entrance to the Historisches Museum is on Domplatz. Hours are Tuesday to Sunday 10am to 6pm. Entrance is 4€ adults, 3€ children 16 and under.

The Technik-Museum (Museum of Technology), Geibstrasse 2 ( 06232/67080;www.technik-museum.de), is housed in a former 1913 aircraft hanger. Here you can view a vast array of airplanes, locomotives, vintage automobiles, fire engines, and even automatic musical instruments. For many, the biggest thrill is going inside a 20-ton U-boat once used to terrorize Allied shipping in the Atlantic.

Annexed to the museum is the Marine Museum, displaying a rich collection of historical model ships. Part of the attraction is a monumental 3-D IMAX cinema. Entrance to the two museums costs 15€ for adults, 11€ for children 15 and under. It’s open daily 9am to 6pm.

Dreifaltigkeitskirke (Trinity Church), on Grosse Himmelsgasse, dates from 1701 to 1717, when it was constructed in an elaborate baroque style. It’s one of the most richly adorned and decorated churches along the Rhine, and the only elaborate, baroque-style church that still exists in the Rhine-Main-Neckar region; the interior contains a two-story gallery with a splendid balustrade of wooden-capped vaulting painted by artisans. Johann Peter Grabner, architect to the court of Palatinate, designed the church. Check with the Speyer tourist office to see if the church is open on the day of your visit.

Speyer was one of the most important centers of Jewish culture along the Rhine, although precious little of that settlement remains today. However, some ruins from the old Jüdisches Viertel (Jewish quarter) can still be seen behind the Palatinate Historical Museum. Enter the ruins from Judengasse and pay the entry fee at the gatehouse ( 06232/291971). The east wall of the ancient synagogue is the Judenbad (called Mikwe in Hebrew), a 12th-century ritual bathhouse for women. The masons who constructed the Dom also built this bathhouse, the oldest and best-preserved relic of its kind in the country and a poignant, nostalgic reminder of a vanished culture. The site is open from April to October daily 10am to 6pm, costing 2€ admission.

Where to Eat

Backmulde ★ FRENCH/SEAFOOD This restaurant, a staple in town since the 1970s, occupies a 400-year-old house. The decor is nostalgic with lots of wood paneling. Gunter Schmidt, the owner, serves not only fresh fish and Continental specialties but a few modern Rhineland-Palatinate recipes. You can order such dishes as braised scallops with olive oil and balsamic vinegar, a salad of wild greens and prawns, or roasted lamb baked under a salt crust.

Karmeliterstrasse 11–13. 06232/71577.www.backmulde.de. Reservations required. Main courses 18€–30€; fixed-price menus 35€–68€. AE, DC, MC, V. Tues–Sat 11:30am–2:30pm and 7–11:30pm. Closed 3 weeks late Aug to mid-Sept.

Kutscherhaus ★ GERMAN/RHINELANDER You’re transported back to old Germany at this beer garden, once a depot for Kutschen (stagecoaches) in the 1890s. Its gabled, half-timbered architecture is an inviting oasis, with climbing vines and plenty of summer flowers. The food is regional, hearty, and filling, and served in generous portions. Begin with appetizers such as a smoked salmon or cream soup with garden vegetables. Main courses feature fresh ingredients and are well prepared, including loup de mer (sea bass) or filet of halibut, perfectly grilled rump steak, or a delicious plate of herring with a creamy sauce.

The inn has three attractive, modern bedrooms, costing 78€ to 120€ for a double. Each room comes with private bathroom, TV, and minibar, and rates include buffet breakfast.

Am Fischmarkt 5A. 06232/70592.www.kutscherhaus-speyer.de. Main courses 18€–24€; fixed-price menus 19€–40€. AE, DC, MC, V. Fri–Tues 11:30am–2pm and 6–11pm.

Zum Alten Engel ★ RHINELANDER Zum Alten Engel, one of the finest restaurants in Speyer, is animated, loud, convivial, and extremely popular. To reach it, you’ll descend a flight of antique masonry steps to a century-old brick-vaulted cellar, flickering with candles and awash with German antiques. Set in Speyer’s historic core, and much in demand among locals, it specializes in hearty regional cuisine accompanied by the perfect glass of wine—more than 180 kinds of wine from around Germany and the world are available. Menu items usually include hearty gutbürgerlich fare of the kind many locals remember from their childhoods. The best examples of this old-fashioned “home and hearth” cookery include fried sausages, liver dumplings, a Rhenish version of Sauerbraten, pepper steak, veal cutlets, and at least two different preparations of lamb.

Mühlturmstrasse 7. 06232/70914.www.zumaltenengel.de. Reservations required. Main courses 10€–20€. MC, V. Mon–Sat 11:30am–2:30pm and 6–11pm; Sun 5–11pm. Closed 2 weeks in Aug.

Where to Stay

Goldener Engel This centrally located inn lies near the Gothic town gate at Maximilianstrasse, adjoining one of Speyer’s finest restaurants, Zum Alten Engel (see above), and is the most atmospheric choice in town. Imbued with lots of character in the spirit of old Rhinelander hotels, the Goldener Engel comes complete with many traditional touches and antiques such as baroque free-standing clothes closets. In contrast, the midsize bedrooms are completely modern and up-to-date, with well-maintained private bathrooms.

Mühlturmstrasse 5–7, 67346 Speyer. www.goldener-engel-speyer.de. 06232/13260. Fax 06232/132695. 46 units. 92€–110€ double. Rates include buffet breakfast. AE, DC, MC, V. Amenities: Bikes. In room: A/C, TV.

Rhein-Hotel Luxhof This hotel is imbued with an unusual character. It’s modern in style, but somehow retains the spirit of a rambling country inn. The blandly decorated rooms are well designed and compact, often featuring small sitting areas that open onto tiny balconies. All come equipped with well-maintained bathrooms.

An der Speyerer Rheinbrücke, 68766 Hockenheim. www.luxhof.de. 06205/3030. Fax 06205/30325. 45 units. 99€–118€ double. Rates include buffet breakfast. AE, DC, MC, V. Free parking. At the Rhine Bridge, just outside the town. Amenities: Restaurant; bikes; exercise room; sauna; outdoor tennis court (lit). In room: TV, minibar (in some), Wi-Fi (free).

Worms ★

45km (28 miles) S of Mainz, 43km (27 miles) SW of Darmstadt

Before the Romans came, Germanic peoples had made Worms their capital. Here, Siegfried began his legendary adventures, recorded in The Nibelungenlied. Later on, Martin Luther arrived under less than desirable circumstances. He was “invited” to appear before the Imperial Diet at Worms, and after he refused to retract his grievances against the Church of Rome, Holy Roman Emperor Karl V declared him an outlaw. A huge monument to Luther and other giants of the Reformation has been erected.

Worms also makes an excellent base for a tour of the Deutsche Weinstrasse, an 80km (50-mile) route through local wine towns (see “A Driving Tour of the German Wine Road,” below).

Essentials

Getting There

By Plane The nearest airport is at Frankfurt, 69km (43 miles) away. From Frankfurt, you can drive to Worms in a rented car. Take A5 south to A3 west to A65 south.

By Train Worms enjoys good rail connections to major German cities. It lies on the main Mainz-Mannheim line. At Mannheim, one train per hour runs south in to Speyer (trip time: 30 min.). For rail information and schedules, call 01805/996633 (www.bahn.de).

By Bus Regional bus service for the area is provided by BRN Busverkehr Rhein-Neckar GmbH ( 06241/207312;www.brn.de) in Worms.

By Car From Mainz, continue south along Route 9.

Visitor Information

For tourist information, go to the Verkehrsverein, Neumarkt 14 ( 06241/25045;www.worms.de). It’s open year-round Monday to Friday 9am to 6pm; from April to October, it’s also open Saturday 9:30am to 1:30pm.

Getting Around

A network of cream-colored buses traverses most neighborhoods of the town and its suburbs. The city’s main junction point is the Hauptbahnhof. Buses run 6am to midnight and charge 2.50€ and 4€ depending on how far you go, paid directly to the driver.

Exploring Worms

Towering physically and historically above all the other ancient buildings of the city is the majestic Dom St. Peter ★★, Lutherring 9 ( 06241/6151; bus: 2). This basilica is a fine example of High Romanesque style. The east choir, with a flat facade and semicircular interior, is the oldest section, dating from 1132. It was designed as the sanctuary, where the clergy performed the rites of divine service. The chancel glows with the gold and marble of the pillared enclosure of the baroque high altar by the famous 18th-century architect Balthasar Neumann. This opulent work was so large that there was no place for a proper transept. In Gothic times the choir stalls stood in the apse, but later they were built into the transept. The interior has a quiet elegance, with little decoration other than the rosette window and several memorial slabs and monuments. Well worth seeing is the highly decorated 14th-century side chapel of St. Nicholas, with its Gothic baptismal font and new stained-glass windows. This was the setting of history’s famous Diet of Worms, an assembly of august figures of the Catholic hierarchy, an imperial court that banished Martin Luther into exile when he refused to renounce his so-called “heretical doctrine.” (Luther adamantly maintained that religious truth exists in Scripture, not in papal power or edicts.) The cathedral is open for visitors April to October daily 9am to 6pm, and November to March daily 9am to 5pm.

North of the Altstadt is the restored Jüdisches Viertel (Jewish Quarter; bus: 2). Before World War II, Worms had one of the oldest Jewish communities in Germany. The still-functioning synagogue, Hintere Judengasse 6 ( 06241/8534700), which dated from the 11th century, was destroyed in 1938 and has since been rebuilt. The synagogue is open November to March daily 10am to noon and 2 to 4pm, and April to October 10am to 12:30pm and 1:30 to 5pm. Inside, you’ll find the Raschi-Haus Museum (same phone; www.worms.de), containing memorabilia from the original synagogue and references to the Holocaust. The museum is open November to March Tuesday to Sunday 10am to 12:30pm and 1:30 to 4:30pm, and April to October Tuesday to Sunday 10am to 12:30pm and 1:30 to 5pm. Admission is 1.50€ adults, .80€ children 13 and under. A staff member inside will point you in the direction of the Judenfriedhof (Jewish cemetery) ★, off the Lutherring, one of the oldest and largest in Europe, with hundreds of tombstones, some more than 900 years old.

Where to Eat

Rôtisserie Dubs ★ CONTINENTAL The prices are a bit steep for the area, but you’re paying for imaginative cookery and quality ingredients. Despite rustic ceiling beams and the massive stonework of the fireplace, Rôtisserie Dubs has a feeling of elegant airiness. The light Continental cuisine adds to that impression. Owner Wolfgang Dubs features such French-inspired dishes as salmon in champagne marinade and delicately seasoned pike-and-cabbage soup. His steak in snail sauce is worth the trip outside of town (it may not sound appealing but it’s quite sublime).

Kirchstrasse 6. 06242/2023.www.dubs.de. Reservations required. Fixed-price menus 34€–84€. MC, V. Wed–Mon noon–2:30pm and 6pm–midnight. At Rheindurkheim, take Rte. 9 north for 8km (5 miles).

Nightlife & Entertainment

The city’s most important showcase for music, classical drama (in German only), and opera is the Städtisches Spiel und Festhaus, Rathenaustrasse 11 ( 06241/22525; bus: 2).

Don’t expect raucous nightlife in Worms. The best advice, if you want a drink in the town center, is to head for the Judengasse (bus: 2), a street with a denser collection of nightlife options than any other in town. One of the most appealing is the Affenhaus, Judengasse 17 ( 06241/22216), which opens for business every day at 10am, carrying on into the wee hours.

Where to Stay

Central Hotel Worms One of the best small hotels in the city, this is a modest and unassuming choice. Innkeeper Alexandra Hill rents comfortably furnished but rather small rooms. All contain bathrooms with tub/shower combos. The reception staff speaks English, and the hotel has an ideal central location, within walking distance of all major historic monuments.

Kämmererstrasse 5, 67547 Worms. www.centralhotel-worms.de. 06241/64570. Fax 06241/27439. 19 units. 80€–90€ double. Rates include buffet breakfast. AE, DC, MC, V. Parking 5€. Closed late Dec to late Jan. Bus: 2, 4, or 5. In room: TV.

Dom-Hotel This is an ideal choice for the in-and-out traveler. The all-purpose hotel is a postwar structure built in a complex of shops and boutiques. Rooms are a little boxy and functionally furnished, but all are well maintained and contain spick-and-span bathrooms.

Am Obermarkt 10, 67547 Worms. www.dom-hotel.de. 06241/9070. Fax 06241/23515. 60 units. 105€–125€ double; 140€ apt. Rates include buffet breakfast. AE, DC, MC, V. Free parking. Bus: 2. About a block from the cathedral. Amenities: Restaurant. In room: TV, hair dryer, minibar, Wi-Fi (free).

Parkhotel Prinz Carl ★★ At long last Worms has a hotel that befits its status as such an important and historic German city. Architecturally distinguished in the old Rhinelander style with step gables, it is completely modernized inside, decorated in a warm, elegant style. There are five room categories ranging from standard to deluxe, but all of the accommodations are furnished comfortably and tastefully, with sleek bathrooms. In the morning, guests enjoy the most generous breakfast buffet in town. The formal restaurant features first-class and international specialties backed up with an impressive wine list from the Rhineland itself.

Prinz-carl-Anlage 10, 67547 Worms. www.parkhotel-prinzcarl.de. 06241/3080. Fax 06241/308309. 90 units. 95€–125€ double; 115€–145€ junior suite; 125€–155€ deluxe studio. AE, DC, MC, V. Free parking. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; babysitting; bikes; room service. In room: A/C, TV, hair dryer, minibar, Wi-Fi (free).

A Driving Tour of the German Wine Road ★★

Germany’s oldest designated tourist route, the Deutsche Weinstrasse, runs south for 80km (50 miles) from Bockenheim, a small town 14km (8 1/2 miles) west of Worms, to Schweigen-Rechtenbach on the frontier with France. This is a land of old castles (most in ruins) and venerable vineyards. Most of the wines produced here are whites, with special emphasis on clear, aromatic Rieslings and Weissburgunders. The area also abounds in old Rhineland-Palatinate inns and wine taverns, serving hearty local specialties such as Sauerbraten (beef marinated in wine vinegar).

Armed with a map (available at the Worms tourist office), you can set out to explore the area beginning in the north at Bockenheim. From Bockenheim, follow Rte. 271 directly south to Grünstadt, where signs point the way to the village of Neuleiningen, 10km (6 miles) away. The locals here are known rather unflatteringly as Geesbocke or “billy goats,” a reference to their longtime poverty—goats (supposedly) were the only livestock they could afford. Today they bear the label with a certain pride. While here, sample the local fare at Alte Pfarrey, Untergasse 40, Neuleiningen ( 06359/86066;www.altepfarrey.de), where fixed-price menus cost 70€ to 90€. It is open Thursday to Monday noon to 1:30pm and 6:30 to 9:30pm.

From here, Hwy. 271 leads south to Kallstadt, a distance of 10km (6 miles), where the next stopover at Bad Dürkheim is signposted. Here you can view the remains of the Monastery of Limburg, once one of the most significant Romanesque structures in the country. The best restaurant is Weinrefugium, Schlachthausstrasse 1A ( 06322/8910980;www.weinrefugium-bad-duerkheim.de), which charges 29€ to 35€ for fixed-price menus of regional food. It is open Wednesday to Sunday 1 to 2:30pm and 6 to 9:30pm.

Route A65 and B9 en route to Kaiserslautern, west of Bad Dürkheim, leads to Frankenstein Schloss, a castle from the Middle Ages (now in ruins). Local legend claims it was this Schloss that inspired Mary Shelley’s classic monster.

A journey 8km (5 miles) south along 271 leads to the Deidesheim, the medieval seat of the bishops of Speyer. The grounds that surround their former Schloss, now a picturesque ruin, have been turned into a lovely park. Some of the wine road’s most charming half-timbered buildings are found on the main square, Marktplatz. Deidesheim is your best bet for wine tastings in this area. Our favorite place is the Basserman-Jordan Wine Estate, Kirchgasse 10 ( 06326/6006), dating from 1775. On-site is a Museum of Historical Wines, a collection containing wines from every year up until 1880. Admission is free and you can visit the estate Monday to Friday from 8am to 6pm and Saturday from 10am to 3pm.

The most elegant hotel in the neighborhood is the very stylish Deidesheimer Hof, Am Marktplatz 1 ( 06326/96870;www.deidesheimerhof.de), where doubles cost 125€ to 290€. Inside are two restaurants, the Schwarzer Hahn, where fixed-price menus go from 90€ to 180€, and the more artfully rustic St.-Urban, which charges 50€ for fixed-price menus.

From Deidesheim, continue along Rte. 271 for another 15 minutes, following the signs to Neustadt-an-der-Weinstrasse, the largest town on the Weinstrasse, lying at the foot of the Haardt hills. Pass quickly through its ugly suburbs to reach the heart of the old town, with its narrow, often-crooked streets. There are some 2,000 hectares (5,000 acres) of vineyards within the town limits, and the main streets are lined with taverns and wine shops. For wine tastings, visit Weingut Probsthof, Probstgasse 7 ( 06321/6315;www.weingut-probsthof.de). Open Monday to Saturday from 8am to 6pm, this estate offers tastings for 10€. If you prefer Sekt (sparkling wine), the cost rises to 12€.

From Neustadt, you can drive 5km (3 miles) south to historic Schloss Hambach ( 06321/30881;www.hambacher-schloss.de), 1km (1⁄2 mile) outside the village of Hambach. The castle is open November to March daily 11am to 5pm, April to October daily 10am to 6pm. Admission is 5€.

An 8km (5-mile) drive south takes you into the sleepy hamlet of St. Martin, which for our money is the loveliest village along the wine road, filled with antique houses draped with flowering vines. A castle here, whose nostalgic ruins still tower over St. Martin, happens to have the best food and lodging along the wine road. Its name is St. Martiner Castell ★★, Maikammer Strasse 2 ( 06323/9510;www.hotelcastell.de), and each of its 26 rooms rents for around 100€ double occupancy, with breakfast included. In its restaurant, main courses are 10€ to 25€ and fixed-price menus are 33€ to 67€.

Yet another 5km (3 miles) south (the road is signposted) takes you to Gleisweiler, a wine-producing hamlet known as the warmest village in Germany. Fig trees flourish in its rich soil and almost subtropical climate.

From Gleisweiler, it’s 13km (8 miles) south along Rte. B38 to Annweiler, site of Burg Trifels ★★ ( 06346/8470), the Rhineland’s most fabled castle, set imperiously on a jagged crag. In 1193, Richard the Lionhearted was captured and imprisoned here until he was bailed out with a huge ransom. From the panoramic peak, you can also view the ruins of Scharfenberg Castle and Anebos Castle to the south. Burg Trifels is open January to March and October to November daily 9am to 5pm, April to September daily 9am to 6pm. The last ticket (5€) is sold 30 minutes before closing.

The most idyllic place for food and lodging in the area is Landhaus Herrenberg, Lindenbergstrasse 72, 76829 Landau-Nussdorf (www.landhaus-herrenberg.de; 06341/60205), 3km (2 miles) north of Landau in der Pfalz, a 15-minute drive east of Annweiler. This is a movie cliché of a charming country inn along the wine road, although its nine rooms are contemporary and well appointed, costing 95€ a night. The owners, the Lergenmüller family, have won awards for their red wines. Naturally, their bottles are the wines of choice in the excellent on-site regional restaurant, which offers three- or four-course menus for lunch Friday to Wednesday; meals cost from 35€. The inn is closed 3 weeks in January. American Express, MasterCard, and Visa are accepted.

The B38 leads next to Klingenmünster, a journey of only 8km (5 miles) south. From here, a sign points the way to the ruins of Burg Landeck, reached after a 30- to 40-minute stroll through a chestnut-tree forest. At the end, the castle ruins stand at one of the most scenic spots along the wine road, with views extending as far as the Black Forest.

From here, B38 goes yet another 8km (5 miles) to reach Bad Bergzabern, an old spa, without equal for its old half-timbered houses.

From Bad Bergzabern, a 10km (6-mile) drive along Highway B38 (the final lap of your journey) will deliver you to Schweigen-Rechtenbach, a village at the French frontier. In the summer of 1935, local vintners constructed a gargantuan stone arch, the Deutsches Weintor (German Wine Gate), marking the southern end of this oft-traveled tourist route. From a gallery atop the gate, you can view miles of vineyards and even see a panorama of the Vosges in France. Visitors can cross the border, about 250m (800 ft.) from the arch, to sample the vintages on the French side as well, as there are no border formalities here. You can follow a trail known as the Weinlehrpfad (wine inspection path), going on for 1.5km (1 mile) until you reach the vineyards at the hamlet of Sonnenberg. This is one of the most rewarding walks along the wine route.

In Schweigen-Rechtenbach, one of the best values for lodging is found in the town center at Am Deutschen Weintor, Bacchusstrasse 1 (www.hotelgarni-amdeutschenweintor.de; 06342/7335), which charges 52€ to 75€ for a double room, breakfast included. We suggest getting a meal at the Hotel Schweigener Hof, Hauptstrasse 2 ( 06342/9250;www.schweigener-hof.com), open daily 11:30am to 3pm and 5 to 9pm. A fixed-price lunch or dinner is 16€ to 24€; wine is extra.

Mainz ★

13km (8 miles) S of Wiesbaden, 82km (51 miles) NW of Mannheim, 40km (25 miles) SW of Frankfurt

Mainz is located on the left bank of the Rhine, across from the Rhine’s intersection with the Main River. It is thought that there may have been wine-producing vines in the area even before the coming of the Romans in 38 B.C., although it was from that time that the regions of the Rheingau and Rheinhessen became widely known for fine viticulture.

At the beginning of the Christian era, a bridge connected the settlement on the Rhine’s left bank and the Roman fortifications opposite. In the 8th century, the town became a primary archbishopric. Over the centuries, church politics and a series of wars shuffled control of the city back and forth between the French (who called it “Mayence”) and various German factions. Today Mainz is a bustling city, with a prosperous trade in wine and other businesses.

Most visitors will be interested in the relatively compact Altstadt, which has been restored tastefully and carefully.

Essentials

Getting There

By Plane The nearest airport is at Frankfurt. There is direct rail service from the airport (S-14 train) via Wiesbaden to Mainz. For information, call the Mainz Railway Station at 06131/151055.

By Train From Frankfurt, an express train takes 30 minutes to reach Mainz, while the S-Bahn arrives in 40 minutes. There are also trains leaving Mainz for Heidelberg and Koblenz (trip time: 1 hr.) or Cologne (trip time: 2 hr.). Daily trains to and from Munich take about 4 1/2 hours. For more rail information, call 01805/996633 (www.bahn.de).

By Bus Regional bus service is provided by ORN Omnibusverkehr Rhein-Nahe GmbH, at Mainz ( 06131/5767470;www.orn-online.de).

By Car Access by car to Mainz is via the A60 east and west, and the A63 south and A643 north.

Visitor Information

Go to Touristik Centrale, Brückenturm am Rathaus ( 06131/286210;www.info-mainz.de). It’s open Monday to Friday 9am to 6pm, Saturday 10am to 4pm, and Sunday 11am to 3pm.

Special Events The most celebrated merrymaking in festive Mainz is the All Fools capers at Carnival each spring, on the Monday and Tuesday before Ash Wednesday, where merrymakers act like fools, jesters, and clowns. This festival is broadcast throughout Germany the way the Macy’s parade is throughout the U.S. There’s also an annual Wine Fair the first week in August and the first week in September. For information, contact the tourist office at 06131/286210.

Getting Around

Trams and buses fan out across the city from the Hauptbahnhof from 5am until around midnight. Fares start at 2.50€ and vary depending on how far you go.

Exploring Mainz

Dom und Diözesan Museum (Cathedral and Diocesan Museum) ★ CHURCH Above the roofs of the half-timbered houses in the Altstadt rise the six towers of St. Martin’s Cathedral, the most important Catholic cathedral in the country after Cologne’s. It dates from A.D. 975 but was continually rebuilt and restored, reaching its present form mainly in the 13th and 14th centuries. Below the largest dome, a combination of Romanesque and baroque styles, is the transept, separating the west chancel from the nave and smaller east chancel. Many of the supporting pillars along the aisles of the nave are decorated with carved and painted statues of French and German saints.

The cathedral’s Diocesan Museum houses a collection of religious art. In it are exhibitions of reliquaries and medieval sculpture, including works by the Master of Naumburg. In the 1,000-year-old cathedral crypt is a contemporary gold reliquary of the saints of Mainz. Among the most impressive furnishings in the sanctuary are rococo choir stalls and an early-14th-century pewter baptismal font.

Domstrasse 3. 06131/253344.www.dommuseum-mainz.de. Cathedral free; Diocesan Museum 3.50€ adults, 2€ students and children 15 and under. Cathedral Apr–Sept Mon–Fri 9am–6:30pm, Sat 9am–4pm, Sun 2–5pm; Oct–Mar Mon–Fri 9am–5pm, Sat 10am–3:30pm, Sun 1–3pm. Museum Tues–Sat 9am–5pm. Bus: 1, 7, 13, 17, or 23.

Gutenberg Museum ★★ MUSEUM This museum is a unique memorial to the city’s most famous son. In the rebuilt Gutenberg workshop, visitors can trace the history of printing, beginning with Johannes Gutenberg’s hand press, on which he printed his 42-line-per-page Bible from 1452 to 1455. The collections cover the entire spectrum of the graphic arts in all countries, past and present, as well as printing, illustration, and binding. Two Gutenberg Bibles are the most popular exhibits.

Liebfrauenplatz 5. 06131/122640.www.gutenberg-museum.de. Admission 5€ adults, 2€ children 8–18, free for children 7 and under. Tues–Sat 9am–5pm; Sun 11am–1pm. Closed Jan. Bus: 54, 57, 60, or 71. Opposite the east towers of the cathedral.

Landesmuseum Mainz (Provincial Museum of the Central Rhineland) ★ MUSEUM It’s worth a visit here to get a pictorial history of Mainz and the middle Rhineland ranging from prehistoric times to the present. The Lapidarium shows one of the most important collections of Roman monuments in Europe. The most impressive exhibits are the Roman tombstones of soldiers and civilians of the 1st century A.D. and the towering Column of Jupiter, erected in Mainz at the time of Nero, around A.D. 65 to 68. There’s a true-to-life replica of the column in front of the Parliament building.

Grosse Bleiche 49–51. 06131/23295557.www.landesmuseum-mainz.de. Admission 5€ adults, free for children 5 and under; free for all Sat. Tues 10am–8pm; Wed–Sun 10am–5pm. Bus: 6, 15, or 23.

Where to Eat

Palatinate, the regional cuisine of the area in which Mainz is located, is basic German fare with regional subtleties based on the availability of local ingredients.

Geberts Weinstuben ★ PALATINATE This traditional Weinstube is housed in one of the oldest buildings in Mainz, built in 1879, with a decor that’s almost spartan. But people flock here for the food, not the ambience. Once seated, you’re treated to a traditional meal of game, fish, or regional specialties such as goose à l’orange. The cuisine includes other hearty regional fare such as roast pork with Sauerkraut.

Frauenlobstrasse 94. 06131/611619.www.geberts-weinstuben.de. Reservations required. Main courses 18€–28€; fixed-price menu 31€. AE, MC, V. Sun and Tues–Fri 11:30am–2pm; Tues–Sat 6–10pm. Closed mid-July to mid-Aug. Bus: 21 or 70.

Haus des Deutschen Weines GERMAN Set in Mainz’s historic core, immediately adjacent to the Stadttheater, this modern, contemporary-looking restaurant focuses on a savory combination of German food and mostly German wines. Said wines run the gamut of virtually every vintage produced within Germany, and the staff is well versed in their compatibility with menu items that include fresh or marinated salmon, all kinds of venison (available year-round), a savory version of rump steak, and perfectly grilled fish. Expect lots of emphasis on whatever vegetable is in season at the moment of your arrival. In spring, for example, asparagus is celebrated with at least a dozen variations served either as starters or as main courses. No one will object if you order just wine and a small platter of food; examples include Spundekäse, an age-old recipe that mingles local cheese whipped with onions and cream into a soft paste. It’s best served with rough-textured bread.

Gutenbergplatz 3. 06131/221300.www.hdw-gaststaetten.de. Reservations recommended. Main courses 10€–18€. AE, MC, V. Daily 11:30am–midnight.

L’Angolo ITALIAN This informal Italian-inspired trattoria is known for its congenial staff and its excellent pizza and pasta. You can also order freshly made salads, with shrimp or prosciutto, and meat dishes with escalopes of either pork or veal. Reasonable prices and a full bar generally keep this place packed.

Augustinerstrasse 8. 06131/231737.www.l-angolo.de. Pizzas and pastas 8€–12€; meat platters 10€–20€. No credit cards. Daily 11am–midnight. Bus: 6, 15, or 23.

Weinstube Lösch RHINELANDER This old-fashioned Weinstube in the heart of the Altstadt has been popular for generations and is rich in tradition. The menu offers regional hot and cold dishes and light salads, plus lots of Rhine wine. The pork Schnitzel with mushrooms is particularly savory. Two regional dishes include Jägerschnitzel with mushrooms and Zigeunerschnitel with paprika, both served with boiled potatoes and a green salad. Tender rump steak is also a huge specialty here. The 12 tables seat 85 guests. Six additional tables are placed out front in summer on the pedestrian mall.

Jakobsbergstrasse 9. 06131/220383. Reservations recommended. Main courses 12€–20€; daily specials 5€–11€. No credit cards. Tues–Sat 3:30–10:30pm. Bus: 6 or 23.

Shopping

The city’s most active shopping area is Am Brand, a short boulevard near the cathedral that’s lined with shops on either side (bus: 1 or 54). One of the town’s best clothing emporiums is Peek & Cloppenburg, Am Brand 38 ( 06131/669200;www.peek-cloppenburg.de), which sells clothing for men, women, and children, in styles ranging from very formal to chic and casual. For German designer fashions, head to Sinn, Markt 19 ( 06131/971560;www.sinnleffers.de), which carries men’s and women’s clothing.

Whatever you can’t find along the Am Brand will almost certainly be available among the vast inventories of Mainz’s most visible department store, Kaufhof, Schusterstrasse 41 ( 06131/2540;www.galeria-kaufhof.de; bus: 54). For a treasure-trove of secondhand goods, shop the Krempelmarkt; this flea market is held along the banks of the Rhine on the first Saturday of each month, February to October (bus: 54).

Mainz After Dark

The cultural center of the city is Frankfurter Hof, Augustinerstrasse 55 ( 06131/220438;www.frankfurter-hof-mainz.de; bus: 54), which stages concerts of classical music, jazz, folk, and pop. The center also hosts an annual tent festival featuring an eclectic mix of international performers. Tickets to all events cost 10€ to 75€. Call for scheduled shows, festival dates and performers, and ticket information.

Although you can buy tickets at the offices of any of the theaters and entertainment venues in Mainz, a more convenient way is to contact the Ticket Service, which is a division of the town’s tourist office at Brückenturm am Rathaus, 55116 Mainz ( 06131/286210; bus: 54).

In terms of its nightlife, Mainz is sleepy enough to compel many residents to head to Cologne or Düsseldorf after dark. But if you don’t want to get out of town too quickly, consider dancing the night away at the Disco Kuz, Dagobertstrasse 20 ( 06131/286860;www.kuz.de; bus: 60 or 61), where you’ll find attractive people drinking, dancing, and talking. It’s open Wednesday, Friday, and Saturday 10pm until at least 4am, charges a 6€ to 10€ cover, and attracts ages 20 to around 35. The hottest address is Red Cat, Emmerich-Josef-Strasse 13 ( 06131/225656;www.redcat-club.de), in the heart of town, right off the landmark Schillerplatz. The club is tiny, as is its dance floor, but hip young Mainzers pack the joint anyway. Chapeau Claque, Kleine Landgasse 4 ( 06131/223111;www.chapeau-mainz.de; bus: 9), is a gay bar that’s open nightly 6pm to 4am.

Where to Stay

Favorite Parkhotel ★ Set in isolated privacy within a park on a hillside above the Rhine and the old city of Mainz, which lies within a 12-minute downhill walk, this three-story hotel was established in the early 1960s, and enlarged in 2005 with a five-story modern wing. It’s a respectable, conservative, family-managed hotel. Accommodations in the old wing are actually preferred for their solid sense of comfort, pastel colors, and conservative sense of modernity. Rooms within the newer wing are trendier, more artfully contemporary, and more minimalist and monochromic, but still very comfortable. The morning breakfast buffet is very complete, a reflection of the good service and food in the gourmet-conscious Stadtpark Restaurant, and its Bierkeller-style cohort, the Bierkutscher. Then, of course, there is an outdoor beer garden (open May to late Sept daily noon–10pm).

Karl Weiser Strasse 1, 55131 Mainz. www.favorite-mainz.de. 06131/80150. Fax 06131/8015420. 121 units. 133€–245€ double; 239€–285€ suite. Rates include buffet breakfast. AE, DC, MC, V. Parking 15€. Bus: 60 or 61. Amenities: 2 restaurants; babysitting; bikes; concierge; exercise room; Jacuzzi; indoor heated pool; room service; sauna. In room: TV, CD player, hair dryer, minibar, Wi-Fi (free).

Hilton Mainz City ★★ Occupying two desirable plots of land near the center of town, the Hilton is one of the most imaginatively designed and strikingly modern hotels along the Rhine Valley. Its twin sections are sheathed in reflective mirrors and soaring spans of steel, and are connected by a glass-sided, covered walkway above the traffic below. The labyrinthine interior has sun-flooded atriums with live plants and acres of marble flooring. The spacious rooms are the most artfully decorated in the region.

Rheinstrasse 68, 55116 Mainz. www.hilton.com. 800/445-8667 in the U.S. and Canada, or 06131/2450. Fax 06131/245589. 437 units. 195€–320€ double; from 304€ suite. AE, DC, MC, V. Parking 20€. Bus: 7, 13, 17, 34, or 37. A 5-min. walk from the cathedral. Amenities: 3 restaurants; bar; babysitting; concierge; exercise room; room service; sauna. In room: A/C, TV, hair dryer, minibar, Wi-Fi (22€ per day).

Hotel Ibis This chain hotel is modern and functional, its two chief attractions being its convenient location at the edge of the Old Town and its affordable prices. Bedrooms are small to midsize and are suitably comfortable in a chain-format sort of way. Rooms are climate controlled.

Holzhofstrasse 2, 55116 Mainz. www.ibishotel.com. 016131/2470. Fax 016131/234126. 144 units. 79€–99€ double. AE, DC, MC, V. Free parking. Amenities: Bar; Wi-Fi (free; in lobby). In room: A/C, TV, no phone.

Hotel Mainzer Hof ★ Mainzer Hof is six floors of modernity directly on the Rhine, almost at the point where some of the boats dock. This hotel is a clean-cut, convenient stopover. The medium-size rooms are well furnished and maintained.

Kaiserstrasse 98, 55116 Mainz. www.hotel-mainzerhof.de. 06131/288990. Fax 06131/228255. 80 units. 75€–165€ double. Rates include buffet breakfast. AE, DC, MC, V. Parking 8€. Bus: 9. A 10-min. walk from the Hauptbahnhof. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; exercise room; room service; sauna. In room: TV, hair dryer, minibar, Wi-Fi (free).

Hyatt Regency Mainz ★★★ Opening onto the Rhine, this deluxe palace has eclipsed the two Hiltons and now reigns supreme. It is the best hotel south of Cologne, done in a strikingly modern architectural style. A glittering 21st-century aura prevails in the public rooms, restaurants, and guest accommodations. The room furnishings are tasteful and sleekly sophisticated, with modern art decorating the walls. The more desirable units open onto the Rhine, and these have even larger bathrooms. The public facilities are among the best in this part of Germany, with a wine bar and the Römische Weinstube restaurant, featuring a grand terrace along the Rhine. In summer a beer garden goes full blast.

Malakoff-Terrasse 1, 55116 Mainz. www.mainz.regency.hyatt.com. 06131/731234. Fax 06131/731235. 268 units. 130€–255€ double; from 368€ junior suite. AE, DC, MC, V. Parking 20€. Amenities: 2 restaurants; bar; babysitting; concierge; exercise room; indoor heated pool; room service; spa. In room: A/C, TV, hair dryer, Wi-Fi (21€ per day).

Mainz City Hilton ★★ In the historic zone of Mainz, about a 3-block walk from the rail terminus, this Hilton is particularly lively. Although the rooms are about the same in both Hiltons, we prefer the relatively subdued atmosphere here and the more personal staff. We also like the architectural touches, including an ancient wall discovered during reconstruction. The wall was preserved and now frames the courtyard terrace. Rooms are a bit cookie-cutter, but tasteful and spacious, each with a deluxe bathroom. They’re priced according to view and location; those on the top cost the most money because of their panoramic views and balconies. The least desirable are on the lower floors, facing a park.

Munsterstrasse 11, 55116 Mainz. www.hilton.com. 06131/2780. Fax 06131/2782099. 128 units. 145€–290€ double; 200€–360€ suite. Rates include buffet breakfast. AE, DC, MC, V. Parking 20€. Amenities: Restaurant; 2 bars; babysitting; concierge; exercise room; room service. In room: A/C, TV, hair dryer, minibar, Wi-Fi (22€ per day).

The Rheingau ★★★

Legend says that when God was looking for a place to set up Paradise, the sunny slopes between the Taunus Mountains and the Rhine nearly won the prize. Today the Rheingau is the kingdom of another god: Bacchus. Nearly every town and village from Wiesbaden to Assmannshausen is a major wine producer. The names suddenly seem familiar—Bingen, Johannesburg, Rüdesheim, Oestrich—because they’re featured on the labels of many wines.

The Rheingau is also rich in old churches and castles, as well as landmarks. The Niederwald Monument, on a hill halfway between Rüdesheim and Assmannshausen—it can be reached by cable car from either town—is a huge statue of Germania, erected by Bismarck in 1883 to commemorate the unification of Germany. Below it, on a small island at the bend of the Rhine, is the Mäuseturm (Mouse Tower), where, according to legend, the greedy archbishop of Mainz was devoured by a swarm of hungry mice. But the real attraction of the Rheingau is the cheerful character of the wine villages and their people. Rüdesheim and Assmannshausen are the most visited towns.

Essentials

Getting There

By Plane The nearest airport is at Frankfurt, 50km (30 miles) away.

From the airport, you can rent a car. Otherwise, take the train or bus from Wiesbaden (see the “By Train” or “By Bus” section, below). There are bus links from the Frankfurt airport to Wiesbaden’s bus and train transport hubs.

By Train The main rail station at Rüdesheim is on the Wiesbaden-Koblenz line, with frequent service to regional towns and connections to all major cities. For rail information and schedules, call 01805/996633 (www.bahn.de). Train service from Frankfurt is via Wiesbaden and takes 1 hour.

By Bus Bus service for the region is provided by ORN Omnibusverkehr Rhein-Nahe GmbH, in Wiesbaden ( 0611/977580;www.orn-online.de).

By Car Access by car is via the A61 Autobahn from the north and Hwy. 42 connecting with the A671 from the west. From Frankfurt, motorists can take the A66 until they reach the junction with Rte. B42, which is signposted and leads right to Rüdesheim. Motorists heading from Koblenz on the west bank of the Rhine can use the A61 to Bingen, and then follow the signs for the ferryboats that cross the river to Rüdesheim. For information on the ferry service, call 06722/2972. From Koblenz, you can also take B42 along the east bank of the river, which will lead directly into Rüdesheim. Rte. B42 links Rüdesheim with Assmannshausen.

Visitor Information

For information about Rüdesheim and Assmannshausen (see below), go to the Stadt Verkehrsamt, Geissenheimer 22 in Rüdesheim ( 06722/906150;www.ruedesheim.de). It’s open January to mid-April and November to December Monday to Friday 11am to 5pm, and mid-April to October Monday to Friday 9am to 6:30pm, Saturday and Sunday 11am to 5pm; Christmas market (the weeks before Christmas) they are also open Saturday and Sunday 11am to 5pm.

Rüdesheim ★

With its old courtyards and winding alleyways lined with half-timbered houses, Rüdesheim is the epitome of a Rhine wine town. The vineyards around the village date back to the Roman emperor Probus. The full-bodied Riesling is produced here, as well as brandy and Sekt (sparkling wine). Rüdesheim is also the scene of the annual August wine festival, when the old taverns on the narrow and very touristy Drosselgasse (Thrush Lane) are crowded with visitors from all over the world. Drosselgasse has been called “the smallest but the happiest street in the world.” From April to November, you can listen to music and dance in these taverns daily noon to 1am.

To prove how seriously Rüdesheimers take their wine, they have opened a wine museum in Bromserburg Castle. The Rheingau- und Weinmuseum, Rheinstrasse 2 ( 06722/2348;www.rheingauer-weinmuseum.de), charges 5€ for adults, and 3€ for children 11 and under; it’s open mid-March to October daily 10am to 6pm (last admission 5:15pm). It traces the history of the grape and has an exhibition of wine presses, glasses, goblets, and drinking utensils from Roman times to the present. Wine tastings are 7.50€ to 16€ extra, depending on how many samples you drink.

Where to Eat & Stay

Breuer’s Rüdesheimer Schloss ★★ This hotel is the first choice for staying and dining in town. The Breuer family is noted for its wine cellars and plentiful food and drink. The wine cellar dates from 1729. The mostly medium-size rooms are immaculately kept, and a few are even quite spacious. The hotel staff will help you prepare a tailor-made package of excursions or perhaps a “gastronomic feast” and a musical evening on their premises. German and Rhineland specialties are served here. The chef prides himself on his Zehnthofplatte, consisting of regional sausages, smoked pork, grilled knuckle of pork, and Sauerkraut.

Steingasse 10, 65385 Rüdesheim. www.ruedesheimer-schloss.de. 06722/90500. Fax 06722/905050. 26 units. 125€–155€ double; 155€–175€ suite. Children 12 and under stay free in parent’s room. Rates include buffet breakfast. AE, DC, MC, V. Free parking. Amenities: Restaurant; bikes. In room: TV, hair dryer, minibar, Wi-Fi (free).

Gasthof Krancher ★ This is a home-and-hearth choice. Gasthof Krancher has been in the Krancher family for four generations and it’s located next to the inn’s own vineyards. Naturally, the Kranchers make their own wines, and they’ll gladly show you the cellar where they store bottles that have won gold and silver medals. Everything is decorated in a regional motif. Rooms are a bit cramped but are reasonably comfortable. From your window you can look out on the vineyards. Local German food, mostly Rhinelander specialties, is served here; a simple three-course meal costs around 20€.

Eibinger-Oberstrasse 4, 65385 Rüdesheim. www.gasthof-krancher.de. 06722/2762. Fax 06722/47870. 62 units. 28€–38€ per person double. Rates include buffet breakfast. MC, V. Free parking. 10-min. hike uphill from the town center. Amenities: Restaurant. In room: TV.

Hotel und Weinhaus Felsenkeller The beautifully carved timbers on the facade of this 1613 building suggest the traditional aura you’ll find inside. A sampling of Rhine wine can be enjoyed in a room with vaulted ceilings and murals with vine leaves and pithy pieces of folk wisdom. In fair weather, guests can eat on the terrace. The hotel serves regional Rhineland cuisine and complete meals, which are huge and cost from 18€ to 43€. The small, attractively modern, and freshly painted rooms open onto views of the vineyards surrounding the house.

Oberstrasse 39–41, 65385 Rüdesheim. www.ruedesheim-rhein.com. 06722/94250. Fax 06722/47202. 60 units. 85€–125€ double; 116€–145€ triple. Rates include buffet breakfast. AE, MC, V. Free parking. Closed Nov–Easter. In the center of the old town. Amenities: Restaurant. In room: TV, hair dryer, Wi-Fi (free).

Rüdesheimer Hof This village inn, set back from the Rhine, boasts a side garden and terrace where wine tasters gather at rustic tables. Most of the units are roomy and comfortably furnished. The atmosphere is informal. If you stay here, you can sample the lifestyle of a Rhine village by mingling with the townspeople, eating the regional food, and drinking the Rheingau wines. Guests dine at cafe tables placed under a willow tree. Food is served daily 11:30am to 9:30pm and meals cost 15€ to 22€.

Geisenheimerstrasse 1, 65385 Rüdesheim. www.ruedesheimer-hof.de. 06722/91190. Fax 06722/48194. 38 units. 92€–119€ double. Rates include buffet breakfast. AE, DC, MC, V. Free parking. Closed Dec to mid-Feb. 10-min. walk from the Bahnhof. Amenities: Restaurant. In room: A/C, TV.

Assmannshausen

This old village at the northern edge of the Rheingau is built on the slopes of the east bank of the Rhine. Its half-timbered houses and vineyards seem precariously perched on the steep hillsides, and the view of the Rhine Valley from here is awe-inspiring. Assmannshausen is known for its fine burgundy-style wine. It lies 5km (3 miles) northwest of Rüdesheim and 60km (37 miles) west of Frankfurt.

Where to Eat & Stay

Alte Bauernschanke-Nassauer Hof ★ The winegrower owners have turned two of the oldest mansions in town into a hotel and restaurant. The interior decor is luxurious, the comfort fine, and the welcome hearty. Rooms are beautifully furnished in traditional style. The restaurant has live folk music every night. Try goulash soup, pepper steak with fresh green beans and french fries, and a bottle of the growers’ red wine. Meals cost 22€ to 30€.

Niederwaldstrasse 23, 65385 Rüdesheim-Assmannshausen. www.altebauernschaenke.de. 06722/49990. Fax 06722/47912. 53 units. 85€–115€ double; 115€–145€ suite. Rates include buffet breakfast. AE, MC, V. Closed Dec 16–Mar 8. Near the church, about .5km/1⁄4 mile from the Rhine. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; room service. In room: TV, hair dryer, Wi-Fi (free).

Krone Assmannshausen ★★★ This distinguished hotel offers the most luxurious accommodations in the entire Rüdesheim am Rhein district. It’s on the banks of the Rhine, surrounded by lawns, gardens, and a pool. Its origins can be traced back 400 years. The inn is a great big gingerbread fantasy with fairy-tale turrets and wooden balconies evocative of the Romantic architecture of the 16th century. A small second-floor lounge is virtually a museum, with framed letters and manuscripts of some of the famous people who have stayed here—Goethe, for one, and also Kaiser Wilhelm II. There’s a stack of about 40 autograph books dating from 1893 signed by writers, painters, diplomats, and composers. You may stay in a medieval, Renaissance, or postwar building. The spacious rooms have an old-inn character, with traditional furnishings.

Rheinuferstrasse 10, 65385 Rüdesheim-Assmannshausen. www.hotel-krone.com. 06722/4030. Fax 06722/3049. 65 units. 195€–245€ double; 325€ junior suite; 375€–705€ suite. AE, DC, MC, V. Parking 10€. Amenities: Restaurant; babysitting; outdoor pool; room service. In room: TV, hair dryer, minibar, Wi-Fi (free).

Koblenz ★

88km (55 miles) SE of Cologne, 63km (39 miles) SE of Bonn, 100km (62 miles) NW of Frankfurt

Koblenz has stood at the confluence of the Rhine and the Mosel for more than 2,000 years. Its strategic location in the mid-Rhine region has made the city a vital link in the international river-trade routes of Europe. The city is surrounded by vine-covered hills dotted with castles and fortresses. Koblenz is also the place where many cruises through the Rhine begin or end.

Essentials

Getting There

By Plane The nearest airports are Frankfurt and Cologne (later in this chapter). From there, you can rent a car or go by train. See below for train information.

By Train The Koblenz Hauptbahnhof lies on a major rail line, with frequent connections to important German cities. For train information, prices, and schedules, call 01805/996633 or visit www.bahn.de. Thirty trains per day arrive from Frankfurt (trip time: 2 hr.) and 16 from Berlin (trip time: 8 1/2 hr.). Trains also arrive every 30 minutes from Cologne (trip time: 45 min.–1 hr.).

By Bus Rail is by far the best way to get to Koblenz, but information on bus service is available at 0261/3038823.

By Car Access by car to Koblenz is via the A48 Autobahn east and west, connecting with the A3 north to south.

Visitor Information

For information about tours, boat trips on the Rhine, and bus and train connections, contact the Koblenz Tourist Office, Bahnhofplatz 17 ( 0261/31304;www.koblenz.de). It’s open Monday to Saturday 9am to 6pm, and Sunday 10am to 6pm.

Getting Around

The city is served by 10 main bus lines. Fare is 1.70€ to 2.45€ depending on how far you go, paid on the bus (the bus driver will help you get the proper ticket, though most tourists will stay in the central zone and pay the cheaper fare).

Exploring Koblenz

Koblenz was heavily bombed during World War II, but many of its historic buildings have been restored. The focal point of the Altstadt is the Liebfrauenkirche (Church of Our Lady), a 13th-century Gothic basilica built on a Romanesque foundation, with twin towers topped by onion-shaped spires. The early-18th-century Rathaus was formerly a Jesuit college. In the courtyard behind the hall is a fountain dedicated to the youth of Koblenz called Das Schängelchen (The Spitting Boy), and that’s just what he does. At the edge of the old town, near the Deutsches Eck, is Koblenz’s oldest, biggest, and most attractive church, St. Castor’s, originally built in 836, though in its present form it dates mostly from the 12th century.

Festung Ehrenbreitstein ( 0261/9742441;www.festungehrenbreitstein.de), across the Rhine from Koblenz, can be reached by chairlift between May and September. You can also drive there via the Pfaffendorfer Bridge just south of the Altstadt or take bus no. 8, 9, or 10 from the rail station. The fortress was constructed on a rock and towers 120m (400 ft.) above the Rhine. The present walls were built in the 19th century. From the stone terrace is one of the best views along the Rhine; the panoramic vista includes not only Koblenz but also several castles on the river and many terraced vineyards. To reach the fortress, make the 3.50€ one-way passage across the river from the main Rhine dock. Ferries operate mid-March to late November daily 9am to 5:15pm. The chairlift operates April to October daily 9:30am to 4:30pm. Round-trip tickets cost 8€ for adults, 5€ for children 13 and under.

A Lofty Look at the Corner of Germany

For the most panoramic view of Koblenz, go to the point where the two rivers meet. It is called Deutsches Eck, or the “corner of Germany.” From the top of the base where a huge statue of Wilhelm I once stood, you can see the Altstadt and across the Rhine to the Festung Ehrenbreitstein.

Where to Eat

Café-Restaurant Palais INTERNATIONAL This old building, a former furniture store, has been converted into a cafe set against a backdrop of Art Nouveau styling. The exterior is a 19th-century Victorian facade, and the interior is filled with fine antiques and original paintings. The chefs roam the world borrowing recipes to create a finely tuned modern cuisine enhanced by attentive service. Try the platterwide Wiener Schnitzel filet steak, or a succulent chicken breast with curry sauce, diced pineapples, and pears. The pastas are succulent, especially the penne with a Gorgonzola sauce, served with an herby garlic bread.

Firmungstrasse 2. 0261/1005833.www.palais-koblenz.de. Reservations recommended. Main courses 10€–19€. MC, V. Mon–Thurs 8am–1am; Fri–Sat 8am–3am; Sun 10am–midnight.

Da Vinci ★★ MEDITERRANEAN One of the most appealing restaurants in Koblenz, Da Vinci is plush and richly accessorized, with backlit bars lighting up like displays in an art museum, plus plenty of polished copper, wood paneling, and leather. And in honor of the restaurant’s namesake, it contains replicas—either framed or painted like murals directly onto the walls—of da Vinci’s most famous art. Conveniently central, with a location near Centralplatz, the venue focuses on Mediterranean cuisine, but with presentations that are a lot more sophisticated than anything mamma mia ever made. The best examples include carpaccio of beef with fresh Parmesan and arugula; grilled quail with forest mushrooms and paprika sauce; and a “strudel” stuffed with Italian cured ham, grilled vegetables, olive paste, and mushrooms. Dessert? How about sweet ravioli stuffed with lemon grass ice cream and drizzled with caramel sauce.

Firmungstrasse 32B. 0261/9215444.www.davinci-koblenz.de. Reservations recommended. Main courses 14€–28€. AE, DC, MC, V. Daily 11am–11pm. Bus: 8.

Weinhaus Hubertus GERMAN Weinhaus Hubertus looks like a half-timbered country inn. It’s the oldest wine tavern in town, dating from 1696. The place offers German wines accompanied by a choice of homemade dishes—soups, sandwiches, and light platters, all designed to go well with the wines offered. The furnishings and decor are family style, providing a homelike atmosphere. There’s a choice here of 100 wines from all over Germany, 30 of these by the glass. In summer, you can enjoy the view of the Altstadt from the terrace.

Florinsmarkt 6. 0261/31177.www.weinhaus-hubertus.de. Reservations recommended. Main courses 15€–24€. MC, V. Wed–Mon 4–10pm. Bus: 1. Across from the Old Rathaus.

Nightlife & Entertainment

The Performing Arts The Rheinische Philharmonie Orchestra performs in the Rhein-Mosel-Halle, Schlossstrasse 35 ( 0261/300160;www.rheinische-philharmonie.de; bus: 9 or 10), which also hosts other performances. Tickets cost 15€ to 60€. Call for listings, dates, and prices of other performances. The Stadttheater (City Theater), housed in the Grossehaus, Dinehartplatz ( 0261/1292804;www.theater-koblenz.de; bus: 9 or 10), stages dramas, comedies, and musicals (in German) September to June. The box office is open daily 9am to noon. Tickets are 20€ to 55€, but can be higher depending on the event.

Bars A pub-oriented crowd, mostly under 40, hangs out late at night at the previously recommended Palais, Firmungstrasse 2, Am Görresplaz ( 0261/1005833;www.palais-koblenz.de), before heading for one of the many pubs on Florinsmarkt for a nightcap. Club Abaco (same phone), in the basement of this building, attracts a mostly 20-ish crowd to dance to the music provided by a live DJ. The club is open Thursday to Saturday from 9pm to 4am, charging a cover that ranges from 5€ to 15€.

At Irish Pub Koblenz, Burgstrasse 7 ( 0261/9737797;www.irishpubkoblenz.de; bus: 1), copious amounts of Guinness, Kilkenny, hard cider, and German beers are served as accompaniment to everything from traditional Gaelic songs to progressive rock ’n’ roll. Hours are Monday to Thursday 4pm to 1am, Friday 4pm to 2am, Saturday 1pm to 2am, and Sunday 1pm to 1am.

Where to Stay

Hotel Brenner ★ This hotel is your best bet if you’re seeking a moderately priced choice. The small- to medium-size rooms are spotlessly maintained. Each bathroom is immaculately kept. The garden retreat is a pleasant spot for getting back to nature.

Rizzastrasse 20–22, 56068 Koblenz. www.hotel-brenner.de. 0261/915780. Fax 0261/36278. 24 units. 87€ double. Rates include buffet breakfast. AE, DC, MC, V. Parking 6€. Bus: 1 or 5 to Christuskirche. Near the Kurfürstl Schloss. In room: TV, hair dryer, minibar.

Hotel Scholz Scholz is a personally run, well-maintained family hotel offering sparsely furnished units that make for a reasonably priced overnight stopover. Rooms are small, but the beds are comfortable and the bathrooms beautifully maintained.

Moselweisserstrasse 121, 56073 Koblenz. www.hotelscholz.de. 0261/94260. Fax 0261/942626. 67 units. 78€ double. Rates include buffet breakfast. AE, DC, MC, V. Free parking. Bus: 6 or 16. A 5-min. bus ride from the town center. Amenities: Restaurant. In room: TV, Wi-Fi (5€ per hour).

Kleiner Riesen This is one of the few hotels in central Koblenz that sits directly on the banks of the Rhine. Its rooms are close enough to view the boats as they go by. Within the city proper, only the Mercure is better. The Kleiner Riesen is a large, informal chalet, with several lounges and comfortable rooms. It’s away from town traffic, so it has a peaceful small-town quiet.

Kaiserin-Augusta-Anlagen 18, 56068 Koblenz. www.hotel-kleinerriesen.de. 0261/303460. Fax 0261/160725. 28 units. 88€ double. Rates include buffet breakfast. AE, DC, MC, V. Parking 8€. In room: TV, Wi-Fi (free).

Mercure ★★ Glittering and stylish, the Mercure is easily the best hotel in town. It’s perched on a hillock at the edge of the Rhine. Its streamlined architecture contrasts with the century-old trees and ancient stones of the surrounding medieval town. Rooms are well insulated against sound, and each has a neatly kept bathroom. One of the city’s loveliest riverside promenades is just a short walk away.

Julius-Wegeler-Strasse 6, 56068 Koblenz. www.mercure.de. 0261/1360. Fax 0261/1361199. 168 units. 117€–168€ double; 260€ suite. 2 children stay free in parent’s room. AE, DC, MC, V. Parking 12€. Bus: 9 or 10. Pets accepted. Amenities: 2 restaurants; babysitting; bikes; exercise room; Jacuzzi; room service; sauna. In room: A/C, TV, hair dryer, minibar, Wi-Fi (in some; free).

Bonn ★

72km (45 miles) S of Düsseldorf, 27km (17 miles) S of Cologne, 174km (108 miles) NW of Frankfurt

Until 1949, Bonn was a sleepy little university town, basking in its 2,000 years of history. Then suddenly it was shaken out of this quiet life and made capital of the Federal Republic of Germany. But in 1991, after the reunification of Germany, Berlin again became the official capital.

From the 13th century to the 18th century, Bonn was the capital of the prince-electors of Cologne, who had the right to participate in the election of the emperor of the Holy Roman Empire. The city is also proud of its intellectual and musical history—Beethoven was born here; composer Robert Schumann and his wife, pianist Clara Schumann, lived here; and Karl Marx and Heinrich Heine studied in Bonn’s university.

Bonn is also within sight of the Siebenbirge (Seven Mountains), a volcanic mountain range rising up on the eastern bank of the Rhine. The local wine produced on these slopes is known as Drachenblut (Dragon’s Blood) and is better than most German reds.

Essentials

Getting There

By Plane The nearest airport is Flughafen Köln/Bonn (see “Cologne [Köln],” later in this chapter). Buses from the airport to Bonn’s main rail station run every 30 minutes daily 5:40am to 10:30pm.

By Train The Bonn Hauptbahnhof is on a major rail line, with connections to most German cities. There are 12 trains daily to Berlin (trip time: 5 hr.), more than 30 trains to Frankfurt (trip time: 2 hr.), and service to Cologne every 15 minutes (trip time: 20 min.). For information, call 01805/996633 (www.bahn.de).

By Bus Long-distance bus service connects with such cities as Munich, Stuttgart, Aachen, Brussels, and London. For information, call Deutsches Touring GmbH in Frankfurt ( 069/7903501;www.touring.de). Regional bus service from Bad Godesberg and nearby towns is provided by Regionalverkehr Köln GmbH at Meckenheim ( 0228/7111;www.rvk.de).

By Car Access is by the A565 Autobahn connecting with the A3 Autobahn from the north or south.

Visitor Information

Go to the Bonn Tourist Office, Windeckstrasse 1 ( 0228/775000;www.bonn.de), open Monday to Friday 9am to 6:30pm, Saturday 9am to 4pm, and Sunday 10am to 2pm.

Getting Around

If you visit the Reisenzentrum under the Bonn railway station, you can pick up a free map outlining the city’s transportation network. The office is open Monday to Saturday 5:30am to 10pm and Sunday 6:30am to 10pm. Bus or S-Bahn/U-Bahn tickets cost 1.60€ to 9.80€. You can also purchase a day ticket costing 5.60€ to 21€.

Tours

The best way to get acquainted with Bonn is to take a walking tour, the meeting point of which is the Bonn Tourist Office (see above). Call 0228/775000 for reservations. Tours lasting 2 1/2 hours cost 15€ for adults or 8€ for children 6 to 14, free for children 5 and under, with a family ticket (two adults and two kids) going for 30€. Tours depart January to April 4 and November 2 to December 15 only on Saturday at 2pm. The “Big City Tour” is conducted on a bus with commentary in English and German, taking in all the scenic highlights and going by the major monuments. The last part of the tour involves a walk through the historic core.

Exploring Bonn

The government quarter, along the west bank of the Rhine, is a complex of modern, rather nondescript white buildings. The two most impressive, both along Koblenzerstrasse, are the former residences of the president and chancellor. These empire-style villas are reminiscent of the older Bonn, before it became an international center of diplomatic activity. They are not open to the public. Running north along the Rhine from the government buildings is a tree- and flower-lined promenade, which ends at the Alter Zoll. This ruined ancient fortress makes a fantastic viewing point from which visitors can see across the Rhine to the Siebengebirge and the old village of Beuel. These grounds, in essence, have become a city park.

Beethoven Haus ★ HISTORIC HOUSE Beethoven House is Bonn’s pride and joy. Beethoven was born in 1770 in the small house in back, which opens onto a little garden. On its second floor is the room where he was born, decorated only with a simple marble bust of the composer. Many of Beethoven’s personal possessions are in the house, including manuscripts and musical instruments. In the Vienna Room, in the front of the house overlooking the street, is Beethoven’s last piano (it was custom made, with a special sounding board to amplify sound for the hearing-impaired composer).

Bonngasse 20. 0228/981750.www.beethoven-haus-bonn.de. Admission 5€ adults, 4€ students and children, 10€ family ticket. Apr–Oct Mon–Sat 10am–6pm, Sun 11am–6pm; Nov–Mar Mon–Sat 10am–5pm, Sun 11am–5pm. Tram: 62 or 66. In the old section of town, just north of the marketplace.

Haus der Geschichte der Bundesrepublik Deutschland (House of History of the German Republic) MUSEUM All the sweep and drama of Germany’s modern history is brought to life in this museum, in artifacts, photographs, and other displays. Exhibits trace the history of Germany after 1945, up to the breakdown of law and order in the eastern sector that led to reunification. The museum made headlines in 2001 when Emilie Schindler, the 93-year-old widow of Oskar Schindler, donated some of her famous husband’s documents to the museum. Oskar Schindler was the subject of Steven Spielberg’s film Schindler’s List, one of the best-known movies ever made of the Holocaust. The bequest includes excerpts from the diary of one of hundreds of Jews who Schindler, a German industrialist, saved from the Nazi death camps. The donation also includes a photo album of the making of the Spielberg movie and a congratulatory letter from then American president Bill Clinton.

Willy-Brandt-Allee 14. 0228/91650.www.hdg.de. Free admission. Tues–Sun 9am–7pm. U-Bahn: Heussallee/Museumsmeile.

Kunstmuseum Bonn MUSEUM This triangular structure, flooded with light, contains one of the most important art collections along the Rhine. The highlight is 20th-century art, including works by Rhenish expressionists, most notably August Macke. There are also works by Kirchner, Schmidt-Rottluff, Campen-Donk, Ernst, Seehaus, and Thuar.

Friedrich-Ebert-Allee 2. 0228/776260.http://kunstmuseum.bonn.de. Admission 7€ adults, 3.50€ children, 14€ family ticket. Tues–Sun 10am–6pm (Wed until 9pm). U-Bahn: Heussallee.

Where to Eat

Em Höttche GERMAN Em Höttche enjoys a long and colorful history, going all the way back to 1389. It’s fed thousands over the centuries with its rib-sticking fare—perhaps changing the recipes every 100 years or so. The interior has been restored, with carved-wood paneling, natural brick, old beamed ceilings, decoratively painted plaster, and curlicue chandeliers. Favorite dining spots are tables set inside the walk-in fireplace. On the a la carte list, you’ll find specialties for two, including entrecôte. Fresh salmon is often available. Complement your meal with a carafe of local wine—the best buy in the house. However, the drink of choice for most visitors is Kölsch, a famous Rhineland beer for which the establishment is well known.

Markt 4. 0228/690009.www.em-hoettche.de. Reservations not accepted. Main courses 12€–24€. No credit cards. Daily 11am–1am. Tram: 47. Bus: 618. Next to the Rathaus.

German Men of Ideas: Friedrich Nietzsche (1844–1900)

“Man is something that shall be overcome…. You have made your way from worm to man, and much in you is still worm… Man is a rope, tied between beast and overman—a rope over an abyss… What is great in man is that he is a bridge and not an end.”

Field of Study: Philosopher, philologist, ethicist.

Revolutionary Insight: Believed Christianity promoted a “slave morality” in which meekness, submission, and piety are valued. The “death of God” meant it was impossible to know objective, divine truth; against this backdrop of relativism the solitary, exceptional übermensch (overman) creates his own inner, superior morality.

Controversy Quotient (0to 5): (4) Intellectual combativeness alienated contemporaries, including Richard Wagner. In life, Nietzsche despised nationalism and anti-Semitism; posthumous reputation suffered when Hitler corrupted the übermensch into a Nazi eugenic ideal.

Little Known Fact: Some historians now believe the sickly Nietzsche went insane not from late-stage syphilis, but from a vascular disease that manifested in migraines, stroke, and dementia.

—Kelly Regan

Ristorante Grand’Italia ★ ITALIAN/INTERNATIONAL This is one of the most appealing Italian restaurants along the Rhine. Main courses might include a filletto della casa (filet of beef prepared in a “special sauce,” the composition of which the chefs won’t discuss), tagliorini with white truffles, and an autumnal version of roast pheasant. Also look for Roman-style osso buco (veal shank layered with prosciutto), a succulent risotto Milanese, and such desserts as a velvety version of zabaglione.

Bischofsplatz 1. 0228/638333. Reservations recommended. Main courses 17€–28€. AE, DC, MC, V. Daily noon–3pm and 6pm–midnight. Tram: 62 or 66. Adjacent to the old market square.

Zur Lese GERMAN This restaurant’s polite service and outdoor terrace with a sweeping view over the Rhine attract many local residents, especially in the afternoon, when visitors drop in for coffee, cakes, and glasses of wine after strolling in the nearby Hofgarten. Elegant, well-prepared lunches are also offered. Dinner is served in the cafe. A menu of German specialties (with English translations) includes pork with curry sauce and the chef’s superb Gulasch Lese (goulash). You can also choose rainbow trout or lobster from the terrace aquarium. The food is home-style and hearty, with no pretense.

Adenauerallee 37. 0228/223322.www.zurlese.de. Reservations recommended. Main courses 12€–23€; fixed-price menu 39€. AE, DC, MC, V. Restaurant Tues–Sun noon–midnight. Cafe Tues–Sun noon–2pm and 6–10pm.

Shopping

Not surprisingly, you’ll find lots of shops in town specializing in garments suitable for diplomacy and business. Most of the best are on the Sternstrasse (S-Bahn: Hauptbahnhof), partly a pedestrian-only street at certain times of day.

Eighteenth-century German and French furniture as well as Biedermeier is found at Paul Schweitzer, Loebestrasse 1 ( 0228/362659; S-Bahn: Godesberger Bahnhof), which also handles Oriental carpets, silver, French glass, and estate jewelry. A market called the Flohmarkt, at Rheinaue, Ludwig-Erhard-Strasse (tram: 66), is where you’ll find all manner of secondhand goods and collectibles. It’s held the third Saturday of each month April to October. A weekly market, Wochenmarkt, on the square of the same name, is held Monday to Saturday. You can enjoy a good lunch here, buying cooked food as you walk along inspecting the produce and various flea market items.

Nightlife & Entertainment

Once a dismal place to go out on the town, Bonn now has a thriving fine-arts community and a brisk nightlife. If you’re in the area around the first Saturday in May, don’t miss the Rhine in Flames event which features a spectacular annual fireworks display, visible for a distance of about 25km (15 miles) south of the city.

The Performing Arts Bonn has always struggled with the perception that it can’t compete with the larger arts communities in Hamburg and Berlin, and consequently it compensates (or overcompensates) with an impressive roster of cultural events. One of the most visible is “La Scala of the Rhineland,” the Oper der Stadt Bonn, Am Boeselagerhof ( 0228/778008;www.theater-bonn.de; S-Bahn: Hauptbahnhof), where ballet and opera are performed at regular intervals mid-August to June. Box office hours are Monday to Friday 10am to 3:30pm, Saturday 9:30am to noon, and Sunday 10am to 2pm. Tickets are 9€ to 115€ each, depending on the event.

The Klassische Philharmonie Bonn (Bonn Symphony Orchestra) performs in Beethovenhalle, Wachsbleiche 16 ( 0228/654965;www.klassische-philharmonie-bonn.de; S-Bahn: Hauptbahnhof), September to June, with occasional free concerts given on Sunday mornings. Otherwise, tickets cost 15€ to 62€. On a more intimate scale, chamber music is sometimes presented within a small but charming concert hall within the Beethoven Haus (see above for contact information).

During the Bonner Summer Festival, mid-May to August, an international selection of dance and music groups performs, mostly for free, in open-air locations around the city. Contact 0228/201030 or 2010345 for details. In addition, the BeethovenFest Bonn, a rekindling of both the nostalgia and the music associated with Bonn’s greatest musical genius, takes place in late August and September. Visit www.beethovenfestbonn.de for information.

Bonn’s Theater-Kasse, Windeckstrasse 1 ( 0228/775000;www.theater.bonn.de; S-Bahn: Hauptbahnhof), is a well-known and highly resourceful ticket agency associated with the city’s tourist office. It has access to tickets for virtually every sporting, entertainment, and cultural venue in Bonn. Also call for information on performers, schedules, and prices.

Live Music & Cabaret The Pantheon Theater, Bundeskanzlerplatz ( 0228/212521;www.pantheon.de; bus: 610), stages jazz and pop concerts, comedy shows, and political cabaret. Nearly every weekday there is a performance of some sort. Friday and Saturday, the facility becomes a dance club. The box office is open Monday, Wednesday, Thursday, and Friday noon to 6pm.

Gay Bars The most crowded gay bar is Boba’s Bar, Josefstrasse 17 ( 0228/650685;www.bobasinn.de; S-Bahn: Hauptbahnhof), near the railway station, adjacent to the Rhine. It welcomes a drinking (but not dancing) crowd in their 20s and 30s. It’s open Tuesday to Sunday 8pm to 3am and Friday and Saturday 8pm to 5am. There’s also Le Copain, Berliner Platz 5 ( 0228/639935; S-Bahn: Berliner-von-Suttner-Platz), which attracts a somewhat older clientele and is open 4pm to 1 or 2am.

Where to Stay

Dorint Sofitel Venusberg ★★★ This elegant and intimate hotel, built in a style evocative of a French country home, is surrounded by the beauty of the Venusberg nature reserve, part of the larger Kottenforst. It is the grandest choice for Bonn. About half the units offer private balconies overlooking the hills. Bathrooms are well accessorized.

An der Casselsruhe 1, 53127 Bonn. www.dorint.de. 0228/2880. Fax 0228/288288. 85 units. 119€–280€ double; 365€–409€ junior suite; 425€–569€ suite. AE, DC, MC, V. Parking 11€. 2.5km (1 1/2 miles) southwest of Bonn, via Trierer Strasse. Amenities: 2 restaurants; babysitting; concierge; access to nearby health club; Jacuzzi; room service; sauna. In room: A/C, TV, hair dryer, minibar, Wi-Fi (5€ per hour).

Günnewig Bristol Hotel ★★ This somewhat sterile, Cold War–era concrete-and-glass tower is still a suitable address. The good-size rooms are the best in Bonn, featuring double-glazing on the windows, along with fashionable and well-equipped bathrooms. The staff is also excellent.

Prinz-Albert-Strasse 2, 53113 Bonn. www.guennewig.de. 0228/26980. Fax 0228/2698222. 116 units. 119€–217€ double; 230€–390€ suite. Children 12 and under stay free in parent’s room. Rates include American breakfast. AE, DC, MC, V. Parking 15€. Tram: 61 or 62. Near Poppelsdorf Castle. Amenities: 3 restaurants; bar; babysitting; indoor heated pool; room service; sauna. In room: A/C, TV, hair dryer, minibar, Wi-Fi (in some; 8€ per hour).

Hotel Domicil ★★ This modern and convenient hotel, like the Kaiser Karl (see below), is an oasis of charm and grace in Bonn’s rather sterile environment. It’s like an exclusive London town house and provides a viable alternative to the Günnewig Bristol (see above). In the front, a glass-and-steel portico stretches over the sidewalk. The interior is one of the most elegant in the capital. The handsomely designed and spacious rooms range from Belle Epoque to Italian modern.

Thomas-Mann-Strasse 24–26, 53111 Bonn. www.bestwestern.de. 800/780-7234 in the U.S., or 0228/729090. Fax 0228/691207. 44 units. 108€–222€ double; 250€ suite. Rates include buffet breakfast. AE, DC, MC, V. Parking 25€. U-Bahn: Hauptbahnhof. 4 blocks north of the cathedral, near the Hauptbahnhof. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; babysitting; Jacuzzi; room service; sauna. In room: TV, hair dryer, minibar, Wi-Fi (free).

Kaiser Karl ★★ Kaiser Karl is one of Bonn’s gems. Like the Domicil (see above), it has more style and atmosphere than other luxury leaders. Constructed in 1905 as a private town house, it was converted in 1983 into a stylish four-story hotel. The attractive decor includes lacquered Japanese screens, English antiques, Oriental carpets, Venetian mirrors, and Edwardian potted palms. Each beautifully furnished room has a sleek bathroom.

Vorgebirgstrasse 56, 53119 Bonn. www.kaiser-karl-hotel-bonn.de. 0228/985570. Fax 0228/9855777. 42 units. 89€–420€ double; from 250€ suite. Children 6 and under stay free in parent’s room. AE, DC, MC, V. Parking 12€. Bus: 645 or 607. Pets allowed. Amenities: Restaurant; babysitting; bikes; room service. In room: TV, hair dryer, minibar, Wi-Fi (free).

Sternhotel This is one of the best of Bonn’s moderately priced hotels. It offers an informal, cozy atmosphere. Rooms are homey, all with comfortable furnishings and bathrooms are well equipped.

Markt 8, 53111 Bonn. www.sternhotel-bonn.de. 0228/72670. Fax 0228/7267125. 80 units. 115€–185€ double; 145€–230€ suite. Rates include buffet breakfast. DC, MC, V. U-Bahn: Uni-Markt. Bus: 624, 625, or 626. Next to the Rathaus. Amenities: Exercise room; sauna. In room: TV, minibar.

Bad Godesberg

6km (4 miles) S of central Bonn

Part of greater Bonn, Bad Godesberg is one of the Rhine’s oldest spa towns. It’s located just opposite the legendary Siebengebirge (Seven Mountains), with a view of Drachenfels (Dragon’s Rock), where, according to legend, Siegfried slew the dragon. You can still see some ancient castle ruins on the hills, such as Godesberg Castle, built in the 13th century by the electors of Cologne (its ruins have been incorporated into the Ringhotel Rheinhotel Dreesen; see below). From the promenade along the Rhine, you can watch a flow of boats and barges wending their way up and down the river.

Most of the spa’s activities center on the small but elegant 18th-century Redoute Palace. Theaters, concerts, and social functions offer a constant whirl of events. Since these events are not permanent, check with the Bonn tourist office, which publishes a weekly list of current events happening at the time of your visit and can provide additional information about the town.

Getting There You can reach Bad Godesberg from Bonn by taking tram no. 16 or 63 from Bonn’s central rail station (trip time: 20 min.). If you’re driving from the center of Bonn, take the B9 (driving time: 20 min.).

Where to Eat

Halbedel’s Gasthaus ★★ CONTINENTAL Here, amid many nostalgic souvenirs and antique tables and chairs, the courtly owners will welcome you to their turn-of-the-20th-century villa. The kitchen prides itself on using mostly German-grown produce. The chefs are true artists, using ingredients of superlative quality to create harmonious flavors and textures. Some of the dishes will be familiar; others are imaginative inventions. Perhaps the most experimental dish on the menu is pigeon with a dark chocolate and chili sauce. In spite of the sound of it, it is a great flavor to many gourmets. Also reaching heights of culinary bliss is the goose liver with a brioche that’s accompanied by apples and a passion fruit sauce. Lobster tartare appears delectably with avocados and mangoes. We are also impressed with the turbot with fresh artichokes and morels.

Rheinallee 47. 0228/354253.www.halbedels-gasthaus.de. Reservations recommended. Main courses 35€–42€; fixed-price menu 85€–105€. AE, MC, V. Tues–Sun 6–10:30pm. Closed 3 weeks July–Aug. Tram: 16. Bus: 610.

Where to Stay

Ringhotel Rheinhotel Dreesen ★ Directly beside the river, a 10-minute ride from the center of Bonn, this noble structure offers rooms opening onto the banks of the river. Across the river, guests can see the national park areas of Siebengebirge and Petersberg. Bedrooms are elegant and comfortable, each tastefully furnished and ranging from midsize to spacious, with first-class bathrooms. Bikes are available for cycling tours along the banks of the Rhine or else in the park. Freshly prepared meals with quality ingredients are served in the on-site bistro and restaurant.

Rheinstrasse 45, 53179 Bad Godesberg. www.rheinhoteldreesen.de. 0228/82020. Fax 0228/8202153. 72 units. 120€–185€ double; 200€–250€ suite. Rates include buffet breakfast. AE, DC, MC, V. Parking 10€. Tram: 16. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; room service. In room: A/C, TV, minibar, Wi-Fi (16€ per day).

Aachen (Aix-la-Chapelle) ★

64km (40 miles) W of Cologne, 80km (50 miles) SW of Düsseldorf

The ancient Imperial City of Aachen (Aix-la-Chapelle), at the frontier where Germany, Belgium, and the Netherlands meet, is inseparably connected with Charlemagne. He selected this spot as the center of his vast Frankish empire. History is important here, but today there’s also a youthful joie de vivre that attracts young people from all over the world. Visitors also come for the sulfurous hot springs and the magnificent cathedral.

Aachen has an even longer history as a spa than as an imperial city. Roman legionnaires established a military bath here in the 1st century A.D. By the end of the 17th century, Aachen was known as the “Spa of Kings” because royalty from all over Europe came here to take the cure. Its springs are among the hottest in Europe. The treatment includes baths and the Trinkkur (drinking the water). The spa gardens are the center of resort activity, with attractive ponds, fountains, and shade trees.

Essentials

Getting There By Train The Hauptbahnhof at Aachen receives some 200 trains a day from all parts of Germany and from Paris, with easy connections from most major cities as well as nearby Cologne (trip time: 45 min.). Frankfurt is 2 hours and 45 minutes away, and Munich, 5 hours and 40 minutes. For information, call 01805/996633 (www.bahn.de).

By Car Access is by the A4 Autobahn east and west or the A44 north or south. Driving time from Cologne is 50 to 60 minutes, depending on traffic. Frankfurt is 3 1/2 hours away by car; Munich, 6 1/2 hours.

Visitor Information You’ll find the Tourist Office Aachen on Friedrich-Wilhelm-Platz ( 0241/1802960;www.aachen.de). Office hours are Monday to Friday 9am to 6pm, Saturday 9am to 2pm. From April to December the tourist office is also open on Sunday 10am to 2pm.

Getting Around Buses pull into the main railway station in the center of town at Peterskirchhof and Peterstrasse. Tickets are 1.55€ to 7.30€. A 24-hour pass, available at the bus station, offers unlimited travel within Aachen for 6.45€.

Exploring Aachen

Aachen’s Altstadt is small enough to be covered on foot. Marktplatz, in the heart of town, is overshadowed by the Gothic Rathaus, which contains the city archives. From here, you can head down one of the most popular and busiest pedestrian precincts in the city, Krämerstrasse, which will lead to Münsterplatz (Cathedral Square) and the famous cathedral (see below), one of the masterpieces of architecture in the Western world. Past the cathedral you reach the Elisengarten, bordered on the south by the symbol of Bad Aachen, the Elisenbrunnen, a rotunda with a thermal drinking fountain. From Münsterplatz you can go through the great iron gate to the Fischmarkt, with old merchants’ houses and the Fischpuddelchen fountain with spouting fish.

Wingerstberg Kurgarten and the Stadtgarten, with its thermal bath and casino, lie to the northeast of town, and the Hauptbahnhof is on the southern ring, opening onto Römerstrasse.

Couven Museum ★ MUSEUM This gracefully designed villa gives you an insight into the decorative traditions of the late 18th and 19th centuries. It has one of the best collections of antique furnishings of any museum in the region. On the ground floor is a reproduction of a small-scale chocolate factory. You’ll find treasures, some of them low key and discreet, virtually everywhere you look.

Huhnermarkt 17. 0241/4324421.www.couven-museum.de. Admission 5€ adults, 2.50€ students and children. Tues–Sun 10am–5pm; 1st Sun of every month 1–5pm. Bus: 4.

Dom (Cathedral) ★★ CHURCH About A.D. 800, Emperor Charlemagne built the “octagon,” the core of the Imperial Cathedral. Within stands the marble Königsstuhl, Charlemagne’s throne, one of the most venerable monuments in Germany. (Visitors to the cathedral can view the throne only with a guide; request one at the treasury or call ahead.) The Holy Roman emperors were crowned here from 936 to 1531, when Frankfurt became the coronation city.

The cathedral is an unusual mixture of Carolingian (the well-preserved dome), Gothic (the choir, completed in 1414), and baroque (the Hungarian chapel), all united into a magnificent upward sweep of architecture. The treasury ★★★, in the adjoining house (entry: Klostergasse), is the most valuable and celebrated ecclesiastical treasure-trove north of the Alps. But the cathedral itself holds its own share of wealth. The elaborate gold shrine (1215) in the chancel contains the relics of Charlemagne ★★★. The pulpit ★★★ of Henry II (ca. 1002) is copper studded with precious gems.

Klosterplatz 2. 0241/47709127.www.aachendom.de. Cathedral free; treasury 4€ adults, 3€ students and children. Cathedral daily 7am–7pm. Treasury Mon 10am–1pm; Tues–Wed and Fri–Sun 10am–6pm; Thurs 10am–9pm. Bus: 1, 11, or 21.

Rathaus HISTORIC BUILDING The 14th-century Rathaus was built on the original site of Charlemagne’s palace. Part of the ancient palace structure can still be seen in the so-called Granus Tower at the east side of the hall. The richly decorated facade, facing the marketplace, is adorned with the statues of 50 German rulers, 31 of them crowned in Aachen. In the center, standing in relief, are the “Majestas Domini,” the two most important men of their time in the Holy Roman Empire, Charlemagne and Pope Leo III.

On the second floor of the Rathaus is the double-naved and cross-beamed Imperial Hall, where coronation banquets took place from 1349 to 1531. Built as the successor to the Carolingian Royal Hall, today it contains exact replicas of the imperial crown jewels, true in size and material to the originals, presently in the Vienna Secular Treasury. On the walls are the Charlemagne frescoes, painted in the 19th century by Alfred Rethel, illustrating the victory of the Christian Franks over the Germanic heathens.

Am Markt. 0241/4327310. Admission 5€ adults, 2.50€ students and children. Daily 10am–6pm. Closed sometimes for official events. Bus: 4 or 11.

Suermondt Ludwig Museum ★ MUSEUM The impressive collection of medieval German sculpture, one of the finest in the land, includes a Madonna in Robes (1420) from the Swabian school and a Virgin and Child from the 14th-century Tournai school. The second landing has a good collection of primitive Flemish and German works, along with 17th-century Dutch and Flemish paintings. Look for works by Van Dyck and Jordaens. The museum also has modern works, especially from the 1920s and 1930s.

Wilhelmstrasse 18. 0241/479800.www.suermondt-ludwig-museum.de. Admission 5€ adults, 3€ children. Tues–Sun noon–6pm (Wed until 8pm). Bus: 3, 4, or 13.

Where to Eat

Magellan TURKISH/INTERNATIONAL Set within a 5-minute walk from Aachen’s Rathaus (Town Hall), with a sprawling outdoor terrace that overlooks trees and flowers, this restaurant encompasses cuisine from terrain that its namesake, the famed explorer Magellan, might have visited. The venue is rustic, with thick wooden tables, durable chairs, and a magisterial chandelier that somehow evokes something akin to a Greek Orthodox church. The menu includes choices from Turkey (mezes, the succulent and savory dishes like mashed eggplant, olives, and hummus), Italy (pizzas and pastas), and Germany (Schnitzel and sausages), as well as a wide choice of grilled lamb and beefsteaks.

Pontstrasse 78. 0241/4016440.www.magellan-ac.de. Reservations not necessary. Main courses 12€–16€. MC, V. Daily 10am–midnight; last order for hot food at 11pm. Bus: 3 or 13.

Ratskeller CONTINENTAL/GERMAN This old-fashioned restaurant is a long-established favorite among locals. A rather formal dining area is in the cellar of the Rathaus, and meals from a mainly Continental menu are served here. In addition to various specialties, solid German food is also offered, including potato soup, grilled steaks, and Sauerkraut with Wurst, followed by fresh berries and pastries for dessert. The Postwagen, a pub dating back to 1901, serves heaping portions of good home cooking.

Markt 40, Am Markt (in the Rathaus). 0241/35001.www.ratskeller-aachen.de. Reservations needed in restaurant. Ratskeller main courses 20€–36€; 4-course set menu 40€, 6-course 60€. Postwagen main courses 14€–25€. AE, MC, V. Ratskeller daily 11am–3pm and 6–10pm. Postwagen daily noon–9:30pm (drinks till 11pm). Bus: 2, 11, or 25.

Nightlife & Entertainment

For information about what’s happening in Aachen, pick up a copy of the booklet Tourist-Information, published and given away free by the tourist information office. You can also download a copy at www.aachen.de. Alternatively, you can buy a copy of the monthly glossy, Klenkes, a magazine available in news kiosks around the city for 2€.

The Performing Arts Classical concerts are presented in the town’s convention center, Kongresszentrum Eurogress, Mondheimsallee 48 ( 0241/91310;www.eurogress-aachen.de; bus: 57), by the local symphony orchestra and by visiting chamber orchestras. The Theater Aachen (formerly the Stadttheater), Theaterplatz ( 0241/47841;www.theater-aachen.de; bus: 33, 34, or 57), hosts opera, theater, and dance recitals. Ticket prices in both places are 14€ to 100€. If you understand German and want to see experimental theater and plays by Bertolt Brecht and the like, head for the small and rather cramped Theater 99 Akut, Gasborn 9–11 ( 0241/27458;www.akut-theater99.de; bus: 166). Tickets are 19€ to 56€.

Bars & Cafes There are at least a half-dozen bars in or around Aachen’s Marktplatz. One of the most appealing is Café Kittel, Pontstrasse 39 ( 0241/36560;www.cafekittel.de; bus: 13), which somewhat resembles a greenhouse; its menu concentrates on beer, wine, sandwiches, and quiche. It’s open Monday to Thursday 10am to 2am, Friday and Saturday 10:30am to 2am, and Sunday 10am to 1am.

Live Music A final nightlife venue is the Domkeller, Hof 1 ( 0241/34265;www.domkeller.de; bus: 1, 11, or 21), which offers live blues or jazz on some nights and lots of hubbub every night. It is open Sunday to Thursday 10am to 2am and to 3 or 4am Friday and Saturday.

Where to Stay

Am Marschiertor ★ This charming hotel stands in the center of Aachen, not far from the Hauptbahnhof and next to the medieval town gate for which it’s named. The hotel is quiet, with a courtyard and a view over the Altstadt and cathedral. The lobby and connecting hall are attractive, with antique furniture. The recently refurbished rooms have a cozy atmosphere, and each—generally medium in size—is well appointed and well maintained.

Wallstrasse 1–7, 52064 Aachen. www.hotel-marschiertor-aachen.de. 0241/31941. Fax 0241/31944. 50 units. 88€–140€ double. AE, DC, MC, V. Parking 10€. Bus: 1, 11, or 21. Pets accepted. Amenities: Room service; babysitting. In room: TV, hair dryer, Wi-Fi (free).

Aquis Grana City Hotel ★ Aquis Grana City Hotel is your best bet in the town center. The comfortable rooms offer all the modern extras and range from spacious to medium. The staff is very alert to all your needs. Housekeeping rates an A-plus.

Büchel 32, 52016 Aachen. www.hotel-aquisgrana.de. 0241/4430. Fax 0241/443137. 97 units. 88€–230€ double; 270€–420€ suite. Children 10 and under stay free in parent‘s room. AE, DC, MC, V. Parking 10€. Bus: 1, 11, or 21. Amenities: Restaurant; room service; Wi-Fi (free; in lobby). In room: TV, hair dryer, minibar.

Hotel Benelux The warm and inviting Benelux is within walking distance of many major attractions. It’s a small family run hotel, tastefully decorated and personalized. Americans from the Southwest will feel at home in the lobby/reception area—it has probably the only cactus collection in Aachen. Rooms range from small to medium.

Franzstrasse 21–23, 52064 Aachen. www.hotel-benelux.de. 0241/400030. Fax 0241/40003500. 33 units. 120€–154€ double. Rates include continental breakfast. AE, DC, MC, V. Parking 8€. Bus: 5, 25, or 35. A 5-min. walk from the Hauptbahnhof. Amenities: Restaurant; exercise room; room service; Wi-Fi (free; in lobby). In room: A/C, TV, hair dryer, minibar.

Hotel Pullman Aachen Quellenhof ★★★ Once a country home for the kaiser during World War I, this has been turned into a charming, welcoming hotel that appeals to traditionalists. Operated by the Accor chain, the hotel and its spa are reason enough to go to Aachen. Both the public and the private rooms are spacious and beautifully decorated, resting under tall ceilings. An antique and conservatively modern decor is successfully blended. Rooms are furnished comfortably and attractively. Many guests use the hotel as a spa, and it has the Royal Spa with a pool, Turkish bath, Finnish sauna, bio-sauna, ice grotto, and solarium, along with beauty-treatment rooms. The drinking and dining facilities are first-class.

Monheimsallee 52, 52062 Aachen. www.accorhotels.com. 0241/91320. Fax 0241/9132100. 185 units. 170€–365€ double; 220€–530€ suite. 1 child stays free in parent’s room. AE, DC, MC, V. Parking 16€. Pets allowed. Amenities: Restaurant; 2 bars; babysitting; exercise room; indoor heated pool; room service; spa. In room: A/C, TV, hair dryer, Wi-Fi (in some; free).

Cologne (Köln) ★★★

27km (17 miles) N of Bonn, 40km (25 miles) S of Düsseldorf, 188km (117 miles) NW of Frankfurt

Cologne (Köln)

Cologne (Köln), the largest city in the Rhineland, is so rich in antiquity that every time a new foundation is dug, the excavators come up with archaeological finds. Today there is much to see from every period of the city’s 2,000-year history. However, Cologne is also a vibrant, modern city and is fast becoming the fine art capital of Germany, with museums dedicated to postmodern art, old masters like Rembrandt and a hopping gallery scene.

Things to Do Cologne’s centerpiece is the French Gothic Dom (Cathedral) with its towering twin spires. Inside, admire its crowning jewel, The Shrine of the Three Magi—the gilded sarcophagus of The Three Kings. Next door, stop by for a dose of Roman History at the Römisch-Germanisches Museum (Roman-Germanic Museum) or explore American Pop art at the Museum Ludwig. After, hit the Chocolate Museum, south of the center, where you’ll learn about its origins as you enjoy fabulous samples.

Shopping Cologne has become home to a thriving community of emerging, avant-garde artists. Gallery hop along St. Apernstrasse, east of the center near the Neumarkt (a square), and pop into Galerie der Spiegel, one of the first to hit the scene in the 1950s and still the most prominent. If you’re in town in December, explore the stalls selling handcrafts and gingerbread at Christkindlmarkt, Europe’s most famous Christmas Market. It wraps around the Dom, which at night sparkles in holiday splendor.

Nightlife & Entertainment Kölsch beer is the drink of choice in Cologne, a light and slightly bitter concoction available at more than a dozen local breweries. Sip it at the lofty Früh am Dom, a rustic beer hall next to the cathedral, or head to the loveliest quarter in town, the Zülpicher Viertel, which buzzes with even more pubs and bars. Alternatively, relax with classical music at the Kölner Philharmonie (Cologne Philharmonic), a round, elegant concert venue in the city center.

Restaurants & Dining Head to the Old Town, just south of the Dom and spend an evening at the antique-filled Das Kleine Stapelhäuschen, a convivial wine tavern that faces the old fish market. This tavern is the place to feast on the region’s signature dish, sauerbraten (braised beef marinated with vinegar) with potato dumplings. Or splurge on top-shelf international fare such as Angus steak with asparagus and truffle jus, at the wood-paneled Hanse Stube in the city center.

Essentials

Getting There

By Plane Cologne and Bonn are served by the same airport, Flughafen Köln/Bonn Konrad Adenauer ( 02203/404001;www.airport-cgn.de), 14km (9 miles) southeast of Cologne. Flights come from most major European cities. Bus no. 670 from the airport to the center of Cologne operates every 12 minutes, from 5am to 7pm. Travel takes 20 minutes, and the fare is 13€ per person. A taxi, suitable for up to four passengers, costs from 25€.

By Train The Cologne Hauptbahnhof is in the heart of the city, next to the cathedral. For schedules, call 01805/996633 (www.bahn.de). This depot has frequent rail connections to all major German cities and many continental destinations. There are 18 trains per day from Berlin (trip time: 4 hr., 20 min.), 30 from Frankfurt (trip time: 1 hr., 22 min.), and 25 from Hamburg (trip time: 4 1/2 hr.).

By Bus Cologne is linked to several major cities, including Frankfurt, by bus. For complete information and schedules, call Deutsche Touring GmbH ( 0221/7598660;www.touring.de). Regional bus service to nearby cities such as Trier (see for more information) is provided by Regionalverkehr Köln GmbH ( 0221/16370;www.rvk.de).

By Car Cologne is easily reached from major German cities. It’s connected north and south by the A3 Autobahn and east and west by the A4 Autobahn.

Visitor Information

For tourist information, go to the Köln Tourismus Office, Kardinal-Höffner-Platz 1 ( 0221/22130400;www.cologne-tourism.com), a few steps from the cathedral. October to June, it’s open Monday to Saturday 9am to 9pm and Sunday 10am to 6pm; July to September, hours are Monday to Saturday 9am to 10pm and Sunday 10am to 6pm.

Getting Around

For 1.60€ to 9.80€, depending on where you’re going, you can purchase a ticket allowing you to travel on Cologne’s excellent bus, tram, U-Bahn, and S-Bahn connections. A day ticket, the Kölner Tageskarte, which costs 5.60€, allows you to travel throughout the city’s transportation network from 9am to 3am. For more information, call 0221/5470 or go to www.kvb-koeln.de.

For a taxi, call 0221/19410 for a recorded message and then press 1 in reply. Meters start at 3€ and rise 1.55€ per kilometer for rides between 6am and 10pm, and 1.70€ per kilometer for rides between 10pm and 6am.

Exploring Cologne

One of the best panoramas over the ancient city of Cologne is from within one of the cars of the Rhein-Seilbahn, the first and only cable car in Europe that was designed to span a major river. The Rhein-Seilbahn stretches between a point near the zoo, in the district of Cologne-Riehl, to the Rheinpark in Cologne-Deutz, a total of about 900m (3,000 ft.). From the air, you’ll get a good view of the busy river traffic along the Rhine. The cable car operates April 1 to November 2 daily 10am to 6pm. A one-way ticket costs 4€ for adults, 2.40€ for children; a round-trip ticket costs 6€ for adults, 3.50€ for children. For more information, call 0221/5474184 or visit www.koelner-seilbahn.de.

The Top Attractions

Käthe Kollwitz Museum Köln MUSEUM This is the second museum in Germany devoted to the works of this major German figure (1867–1945), the country’s most celebrated female artist of the 20th century. This museum has more of her works than its sibling museum in Berlin. Capturing human emotions, both tender and arresting, the Berlin-born artist focuses on such subjects as death, hunger, war, love, grief, and even happiness. In addition to the works of Kollwitz, presented in drawings, sketches, and sculpture, the museum has special exhibitions, such as those devoted to Picasso, William Hogarth, or even contemporary artists.

Neu-Markt 18–24. 0221/2272363.www.kollwitz.de. Admission 3€. Tues–Fri 10am–6pm; Sat–Sun 11am–6pm. In Neu-Markt Galerie, Innenstadt.

Kölner Dom (Cologne Cathedral) ★★★ CHURCH This majestic structure is one of the world’s great cathedrals—the spiritual and geographical heart of the city. It’s the largest Gothic cathedral in Germany. From the top of the south tower, you get panoramic views of the city and surrounding area.

Construction began in 1248, in order to house the relics of the three Magi brought to Cologne in 1164 by Archbishop Reinald von Dassel, chancellor to Frederick Barbarossa. After the completion of the chancel, south tower, and north-side aisles (around 1500), work was halted and not resumed until 1823. In 1880, the great enterprise was completed, and unlike many time-consuming constructions that change styles in midstream, the final result was in the Gothic style, true to the original plans.

At the end of the war in 1945, this great cathedral appeared relatively unscathed, even though the entire district around it was leveled. According to legend, Allied bombers used the Dom as a landmark to guide their flights to more strategic military targets and could not bring themselves to destroy such an architectural triumph.

For the best overall view of the cathedral, stand back from the south transept, where you can get an idea of its actual size and splendor. Note that there are no important horizontal lines—everything is vertical. The west side (front) is dominated by two towering spires, perfectly proportioned and joined by the narrow facade of the nave. The first two stories of the towers are square, gradually merging into the octagonal form of the top three stories and tapering off at the top with huge finials. There is no great rose window, so characteristic of Gothic architecture, between these spires—nothing detracts from the lofty vertical lines.

Entering through the west doors (main entrance), you are immediately caught up in the cathedral’s grandeur. Although this portion of the church is somewhat bare, the clerestory and vaulting give a feeling of the size of the edifice. The towering windows on the south aisles include the Bavarian windows, donated by King Ludwig I of Bavaria in 1848. Like most windows in the nave, they are colored with pigments that have been burned on rather than stained. In the north aisles are the stained-glass Renaissance windows (1507–09).

In the center of the transept is an elegant bronze-and-marble altar that can be seen from all parts of the cathedral. Behind the high altar, in the chancel, is The Shrine of the Three Magi ★★★, the most important and valuable object in the cathedral. It’s designed in gold and silver in the form of a triple-naved basilica and decorated with relief figures depicting the life of Christ, the Apostles, and various Old Testament prophets. Across the front of the chancel are two rows of choir stalls ★ divided into richly carved partitions. The oak choir dates from 1310 and is the largest extant in Germany.

Surrounding the chancel are nine chapels, each containing important works of religious art. The Chapel of the Cross, beneath the organ loft, shelters the oldest full-size cross in the Occident, the painted, carved oak cross of Archbishop Gero (900–976). Directly across the chancel, behind the altar in Our Lady’s Chapel, is the famous Altar of the City Patrons ★★★ painted by Stephan Lochner (1400–51). When closed, this triptych masterpiece shows the Annunciation, and when opened, it reveals the Adoration of the Magi in the center, flanked by St. Ursula, the patron saint of Cologne, and St. Gereon.

English-language tours are given Monday to Saturday at 10:30am and 2:30pm, and Sunday at 2:30pm. German-language tours are conducted Monday to Saturday at 11am, 12:30, 2, and 3:30pm, and every Sunday at 2 and 3:30pm. Tours last an hour and cost 7€ for adults and 5€ for students and children.

Domkloster. 0221/92584731.www.koelner-dom.de. Cathedral free. Cathedral tower 2.50€; treasury 4€; combination ticket to treasury and tower 5€. Cathedral daily 6am–7:30pm, except during religious services; cathedral tower and treasury daily 10am–6pm. U-Bahn: Dom/Hauptbahnhof.

Museum für Angewandte Kunst (Museum of Applied Art) ★ MUSEUM This is a showcase for the arts and crafts of Germany dating from the Middle Ages, with the 20th century prominently featured. This museum is one of the best of its kind in Germany.

An der Rechtsschule. 0221/22126735.www.museenkoeln.de. Admission 4.20€ adults, 2.60€ children 6–12, free for children 5 and under. Tues–Sun 11am–5pm. U-Bahn: Hauptbahnhof.

Museum Ludwig ★★★ MUSEUM This stunningly upgraded museum is the home of one of the world’s largest collections of the works of Pablo Picasso, bested only by the Picassos in Paris and Barcelona. Irene Ludwig, widow of the late German art patron Peter Ludwig, for whom the museum is named, donated numerous Picassos to the museum, including 49 paintings, 29 ceramics, 37 works on paper, 15 relief plates, and 681 graphic prints, which previously had been on loan to the museum.

In 1976, Ludwig first gave more than 300 works of art to Cologne to form the basis of this museum. Some of these paintings are the most celebrated and reproduced Picassos in the world, including Harlequin with Folded Hands from 1923 and the disturbingly forceful Woman with Artichoke from 1941.

The museum is also home to a great collection of modern art from Dalí to Warhol. The American pop art collection, which also includes Roy Lichtenstein, Rauschenberg, and Jasper Johns, rivals the Guggenheim in New York. Our two favorites are Dalí’s Railway Station at Perpignan and Ed Kienholz’s Portable War Memorial.

Museum Ludwig is also the home of Agfa-Historama, which chronicles the art of photography for the past century and a half, with works by all the greats. This collection of historic photographs and cameras is the largest in the world.

Bischofsgartenstrasse 1. 0221/22126165.www.museenkoeln.de. Admission 9€ adults, 6€ students and children. Tues–Sun 10am–6pm; 1st Fri of each month 10am–10pm. U-Bahn: Dom/Hauptbahnhof.

Museum Schnütgen ★★ MUSEUM This is Cologne’s best collection of religious art and sculpture. It’s all displayed in an original setting, Cäcilienkirche (St. Cecilia’s Church), which is a fine example of Rhenish-Romanic architecture. The works displayed include several medieval ivories, woodwork, and tapestries, including one showing rosy-cheeked Magi bringing gifts to the Christ Child (1470). There are also many Madonnas, of all sizes and descriptions, carved in stone, wood, and metal.

Cäcilienstrasse 29. 0221/22122310.www.museenkoeln.de. Free admission. Tues–Fri 10am–5pm; Sat–Sun 11am–5pm. U-Bahn: Neumarkt.

Römisch-Germanisches Museum (Roman-Germanic Museum) MUSEUM The most compelling treasure in this museum is the Dionysos-Mosaik, from the 3rd century A.D., discovered in 1941, when workers were digging an air-raid shelter. This elaborately decorated and colored mosaic was once the floor of an oecus (main room) of a large Roman villa. It depicts Dionysus, the Greek god of wine. On the second floor of the museum is an unusual collection of Roman antiquities found in the Rhine Valley, including Roman glass from the 1st to the 4th century, as well as pottery, marble busts, and jewelry.

Roncalliplatz 4. 0221/22124438.www.museenkoeln.de. Admission 8€ adults, 5€ children, free for children 5 and under. Tues–Sun 10am–5pm. U-Bahn: Hauptbahnhof.

Wallraf-Richartz Museum/Foundation Corboud ★★★ MUSEUM This is Cologne’s oldest museum, begun in the 19th century with a collection of Gothic works by local artists, still one of the main attractions. The Wallraf-Richartz shows art from 1300 to 1900. Several well-known works from churches are exhibited as well, including the triptych of the Madonna with the Vetch Flower (1410). The painting collection represents nearly every period and school, from the Dutch and Flemish masters to the French Impressionists. Stephan Lochner’s Madonna in the Rose Garden (1450) is a fine example of the German Gothic style, as are his frightening Last Judgment and Dürer’s Drummer and Piper. The museum also houses Germany’s largest collection of works by Wilhelm Leibl, as well as paintings by Max Ernst, Paul Klee, and Ernst Ludwig Kirchner.

Obenmarspforten. 0221/22121119.www.museenkoeln.de. Admission 9.50€ adults, 7.50€ students and children 5–16, free for children 4 and under. Tues–Fri 10am–6pm; Thurs 10am–10pm; Sat–Sun 11am–6pm. U-Bahn: Hauptbahnhof.

Churches

Cologne has 12 important Romanesque churches, all within the medieval city wall. Devastated during World War II, they have been almost completely restored and again recapture Cologne’s rich early medieval heritage. St. Panteleon, Am Pantaleonsberg 2 (U-Bahn: Poststrasse), built in 980, has the oldest cloister arcades remaining in Germany. St. Gereon, Gereonsdriesch 2–4 (U-Bahn: Christophstrasse), is elliptically shaped, with a decagon between its two towers. It contains the tomb of St. Gereon and other martyrs, and its crypt still has mosaics from the 11th century. St. Severin, Severinstrasse 1 (U-Bahn: Severinstrasse), originated as a 4th-century memorial chapel; the present church dates from the 13th to the 15th century.

The church of St. Ursula (1135), Ursulaplatz (U-Bahn: Hauptbahnhof), is on the site of a Roman graveyard. Legend has it that St. Ursula, patron saint of Cologne, was martyred in the city with her 11,000 virgin companions in about 451. St. Maria im Kapitol, Kasinostrasse 6 (U-Bahn: Heumarkt), is on the site where Plectrudis, wife of Pippin (dim figures of the Dark Ages, significant because Plectrudis is one of the few women who had political power in the area, as she was the daughter of an important landowner), built a church in the early 8th century. The cloverleaf choir of the present structure was modeled on that of the Church of the Nativity in Bethlehem. St. Aposteln, Neumarkt 30 (U-Bahn: Neumarkt), and Gross St. Martin, on the Rhine in the Altstadt (U-Bahn: Heumarkt), also have the cloverleaf choir design.

St. Georg, Am Waidmarkt (U-Bahn: Poststrasse), the only remaining Romanesque pillared basilica in the Rhineland, contains an impressive forked crucifix from the early 14th century. Cäcilienkirche (St. Cecilia’s Church), Cäcilienstrasse 29 (U-Bahn: Neumarkt), is the site of the Museum Schnütgen for sacred art (see above). St. Andreas, near the cathedral (U-Bahn: Hauptbahnhof), contains a wealth of late Romanesque architectural sculpture. The remaining two Romanesque churches are on the Rhine: St. Kunibert, Kunibertskloster 2 (U-Bahn: Hauptbahnhof), and St. Maria Lyskirchen, Am Lyskirchen 12 (U-Bahn: Heumarkt), both of 13th-century origin.

Where to Eat

Very Expensive

Hanse Stube ★★ FRENCH One of Cologne’s best restaurants, Hanse Stube offers top-drawer service and food better than that served in the dining room of the Dom Hotel. Prodigious talent and imagination go into shaping the cuisine. Unusual and tasty main courses include breast of guinea fowl stuffed with herbs or medallions of venison with savoy cabbage and a sweet-corn potato Rösti. Also delectable are a galantine of quail with pigeon breast served with pistachios in aspic, or else a filet of lamb with spinach and a tomato ragout.

On the ground floor of the Excelsior Hotel Ernst, Domplatz. 0221/2701. Reservations recommended. Main courses 27€–38€; fixed-price lunches 19€–39€. AE, DC, MC, V. Daily noon–3pm and 6pm–midnight. U-Bahn: Hauptbahnhof.

Expensive

Le Moissonnier ★★ FRENCH This charming brasserie is steeped in the aesthetic and culinary traditions of the early 20th century, with mirrors, cove moldings, dark paneling against ocher-colored walls, bentwood chairs, and tiled floors. Here you’ll enjoy the carefully crafted cuisine of chef Eric Menchon. Menu items change with the season and the inspiration of the chef, but are likely to include risotto with almonds and truffle oil; crayfish sautéed in vanilla oil; carpaccio of turbot; and a house specialty that combines braised filet of goose breast with tarragon and strips of goose liver, and is served with prosciutto-studded mashed potatoes. Salads and fresh fish are all delicious, as are the Sauerkraut and a Toulouse-inspired version of cassoulet loaded with pork, small sausages, and white beans.

Krefelder Strasse 25. 0221/729479.www.lemoissonnier.de. Reservations recommended. Main courses 34€–49€; 4-course lunch menu 65€; 6-course dinner 103€ on Fri–Sat. V. Tues–Sat noon–3pm and 6:30–9:30pm. U-Bahn: Hansaring.

Moderate

Brauhaus im Walfisch GERMAN/FRENCH Brauhaus im Walfisch isn’t easy to find, but it’s a good choice for atmospheric dining. This step-gabled inn with a black-and-white timbered facade dates from 1626. More important, it serves excellent food. There are many German specialties, often influenced by French cuisine. You might try the sole meunière or venison for two. You’ll find the restaurant on a narrow street set back from the Rhine, near Heumarkt.

Salzgasse 13. 0221/2577879.www.walfisch.net. Reservations required. Main courses 12€–22€. No credit cards. Mon–Thurs 5pm–midnight; Fri 3pm–midnight; Sat–Sun 11am–midnight. U-Bahn: Heumarkt.

Das Kleine Stapelhäuschen ★ GERMAN This is one of the most popular wine taverns in Cologne. It’s housed in an office building and opens onto the old fish-market square and the Rhine. The two-story dining room and service bar are antique in style. Provincial cabinets hold a varied wine collection. A wide cantilevered wooden staircase leads to mezzanine tables. Though the wine is the main reason for coming here (it’s that special), the cuisine is also excellent. A specialty is Rheinischer Sauerbraten with almonds, raisins, and potato dumplings. You can also order marinated roast beef in a dark-brown vinegar sauce with raisins, or else escalope of veal with roast potatoes and a mixed salad.

Fischmarkt 1–3 (Am Rheinufer). 0221/2727777. Reservations recommended. Main courses 18€–28€. AE, MC, V. Daily 11:30am–11pm. Closed late Dec to early Jan. U-Bahn: Heumarkt. A few minutes from the cathedral.

Fischer’s ★ INTERNATIONAL Part of Fischer’s appeal is the fact that it’s owned and directed by one of Germany’s best-known women sommeliers, Christina Fischer. Don’t expect to see her hawking wines on the floor, however. These days she’s more of an éminence grise, leaving the day-to-day wine pouring to a staff of underlings. A 10-minute walk from the cathedral, Fischer’s has a large, modern dining room that’s lined with wine racks and paintings celebrating grape harvesting, the production of wine, and its uncorking rituals. The chefs are proud of the restaurant’s policy of combining culinary tenets from both Europe and Asia, often on the same platter. The finest examples include Tafelspitz (boiled beef) served with potato/arugula salad; sashimi of tuna with bean sprout salad and lemon sauce; and fried sea bream with strips of foie gras. There are at least 40 kinds of wine available by the glass and more than 700 vintages from around the world available in bottles.

Hohenstaufenring 53, Ringe. 0221/3108470.www.fischers-wein.com. Reservations required. Main courses 20€–37€; 3-course menu 79€; 4-course menu 89€. DC, MC, V. Tues–Fri noon–2pm; Fri–Sat 6:30–11pm. Tram: 12, 16, or 18.

Inexpensive

Früh am Dom GERMAN Within the cathedral precincts, this former brewery is known for its economy and hearty portions of old-fashioned German cooking, like your German grandmother made. Früh-Kolsch beer, a very special brew, is the right liquid to wash it down. It’s a top-fermented brew with a dry, inimitable taste and a tradition stretching back 1,000 years. Well-cooked meals are served on scrubbed wooden tables, with different specialties every day. A favorite dish for any day is the Cologne specialty of cured smoked knuckle of pork served with Sauerkraut and potato purée. The beer garden is a summer delight.

Am Hof 12–18, Altstadt. 0221/26130.www.frueh.de. Reservations not needed. Main courses 9€–20€. MC, V. Daily 11am–midnight. U-Bahn: Hauptbahnhof.

Heising & Adelmann ★ RHINELANDER/FRENCH “We come here to eat, drink, and be merry,” a local patron told us. “And no German does that better than a Rhinelander.” Although that assertion may be arguable, he more or less stated why young residents of Cologne flock to this place with its good German beer, its French and German specialties, and its lively atmosphere. Start with such delights as a lobster cream soup with fresh mussels and follow with any number of good-tasting dishes such as pan-fried filets of sole with braised mussels and white asparagus or penne with fresh tuna. One imaginative dish is a carpaccio of goose with a chicory strudel.

Friensenstrasse 58–60, Neustadt-Nord. 0221/1309424.www.heising-und-adelmann.de. Main courses 19€–23€. AE, MC, V. Tues–Sat 6–10:30pm. U-Bahn: Friesenplatz.

beer Taverns

Some of the best inexpensive places to eat (and drink) in Cologne are beer taverns. Come to Bräuhaus Sion, Unter Taschenmacher 5–7 ( 0221/2578540;www.brauhaus-sion.de; U-Bahn: Heumarkt; tram: 5 or 7), if you want a traditional local tavern where the beer is good, the wood paneling is smoky with time and frequent polishing, and the food portions are generous. The main courses are traditional and filling Westphalian fare, and the best dish is Kölsch Kaviar (blood sausage with onion rings). On tap is the famed local beer, Kölsch, a light brew with an alcohol content of about 3%. It’s served in Stangen (rods) about 18 centimeters (7 in.) tall. Main courses are 16€ to 26€. No credit cards are accepted. It’s open daily 10am to midnight, but closed Christmas Eve.

Haus Töller, Weyerstrasse 96 ( 0221/2589316;www.haus-toeller.de; U-Bahn: Barbarossaplatz), a 15-minute walk south of the cathedral, has thrived as a brew house since 1876 by selling copious portions of two-fisted Teutonic food and foaming mugs of a local brew, Sion. The menu includes a local specialty, Schinkenhempsel (roast leg of pork), served with Sauerkraut and roast potatoes. Main courses are 12€ to 20€; a mug of Sion will set you back 1€. No credit cards are accepted. It’s open daily 5pm to midnight.

Shopping

Shopping is not taken quite as seriously here as in Düsseldorf—with one exception. Increasingly, Cologne is emerging as the capital of contemporary art in Germany, and lately the city seems to be brimming with galleries.

Art Galleries We’ll recommend the major ones to get you started, but there are many more than we can list here. You might want to walk along St. Apernstrasse (U-Bahn: Neumarkt), where many leading art galleries are located. The gallery that launched Cologne as a European art mecca is Galerie der Spiegel, Richartstrasse 10 ( 0221/255552; U-Bahn: Hauptbahnhof). Established amid the ruins of the wartime bombings in 1945, it was a focal point for the contemporary art that evolved from the shattered dreams of the postwar years. Since then, it has managed to hold its own against rising competition. Galerie Greve, Drususgasse 1–5 ( 0221/2571012;www.galerie-karsten-greve.com; U-Bahn: Dom Hauptbahnhof), changes its exhibits every season, specializing in international postwar avant-garde painting. Another excellent gallery for both modern and experimental art is Galerie Michael Werner, Gertrudenstrasse 24 ( 0221/9254620;www.michaelwerner.com; U-Bahn: Neumarkt), which sells contemporary European, particularly German, painters.

Cologne Water

The word cologne has been a part of the common language since the introduction many years ago of the scented water called Kölnisch Wasser (eau de cologne). Eau de Cologne, Glockengasse 4711 ( 0221/57289250; U-Bahn: Neumarkt), sells the scented water first developed at this address by Italian chemist Giovanni Maria Farina in 1709. Originally employed to hide the stench of aristocrats who rarely bathed, cologne is now simply a sweet-smelling tradition and a cheap way to take home a little piece of Cologne. The smallest 25-milliliter flacon costs a mere 5€.

Clothing Looking almost like a modern cathedral, the home of one of Germany’s leading retailers of clothing, Peek & Cloppenburg, Schildergasse 65 ( 0221/453900;www.peek-cloppenburg.de), lies under a translucent nave that evokes a large crystal egg, using 6,800 handmade panels of glass held together by strips of metal and wooden beams. Renzo Piano designed the store in what he termed a “rather classical cubic form.” Shoppers behind the diaphanous walls browse through one of Germany’s most elegant, but often affordable, selections of clothing. The company has been selling clothing to well-dressed Germans for more than a century.

Long surpassed by Düsseldorf for fashion, Cologne’s pedestrian-friendly layout is blossoming with some of the chicest stores along the Rhine. Fashionistas are flocking to Apropos Coeln, Mittelstrasse 12 ( 0221/2725190;www.apropos-coeln.de), for the latest from Prada or Jil Sander. Storefronts continue to open in the Friesen district, including the Lebanese-born Perla Zayek’s namesake boutique at Richmondstrasse 7 ( 0221/256022;www.perlazayek.de), or Atelier Ludvik, Palmstrasse 43 ( 0221/2774568;www.ludvik-cologne.de), where you’ll find funky, feminine clothing by designer Fenja Ludwig.

Outdoor Markets If you’re interested in the kitschy artifacts that pour out of estate sales, be alert to the flea markets in Cologne’s inner city. The most appealing are held within the Alter Markt (U-Bahn: Hauptbahnhof), at irregular intervals throughout the year, usually at least once a month (ask at the tourist office). More regular are the outdoor food and vegetable markets, the largest of which is held on the Wilhelmsplatz, in the Nippes district (U-Bahn: Florastrasse), Saturdays 8am to at least 2pm.

Nightlife & Entertainment

As one of Germany’s major cultural centers, Cologne has a variety of fine arts and nightlife options. Many clubs stay open into the early-morning hours. You can pick up a copy of Stadt Revue or Kölner for 3€ each to find out what’s happening in the city. If you’re interested in attending a sporting, entertainment, or cultural event within Cologne, you can always head to the box office for tickets. More convenient, however, is the well-orchestrated service of Köln-Ticket, Grosse Neugasse 2 ( 0221/2801;www.koelnticket.de; U-Bahn: Hauptbahnhof), which has many different event tickets for sale. Depending on the ticket, the service charge is around 5€.

The Performing Arts

The most impressive grouping of theaters in Cologne is within the Schauspielhaus, Offenbachplatz ( 0221/22128256;www.schauspielkoeln.de; U-Bahn: Neumarkt), the site of three theaters, each with its own agenda and schedule. Performances range from the avant-garde to the classic. Der Keller, Kleingedankstrasse 6 ( 0221/318059;www.theater-der-keller.de; U-Bahn: Ulrepsorte), hosts contemporary plays, usually in German, and dance performances. Tickets are 14€ to 34€ each; call either the number listed above or Köln-Ticket ( 0221/2801;www.koelnticket.de) for schedules and showtimes.

Kölner Philharmonie This architectural showcase was completed during the late 1980s. The concert hall features a soaring roof, enviable acoustics, and some of the finest classical music along the country’s western tier. The building is the home of two separate orchestras, the Gürzenich Kölner Philharmoniker and the Westdeutscher Rundfunk Orchestra. Pop and jazz programs are also presented. Performances are given almost every night at 8pm, except Monday. Bischofsgartenstrasse 1. 0221/204080.www.koelner-philharmonie.de. Tickets 17€–140€. U-Bahn: Hauptbahnhof.

Oper der Stadt Köln This is the leading opera house of the Rhineland, known for its exciting productions and innovative repertory of classical and contemporary works. Performances take place almost every evening except Tuesday, usually at 7:30pm. Dance programs are also presented. The box office is open Monday to Friday 9am to 6pm and Saturday 9am to 2pm. Offenbachplatz. 0221/22128400.www.buehnenkoeln.de. Tickets 10€–77€. U-Bahn or S-Bahn: Neumarkt.

The Club & Music Scene

Dance Clubs One of the city’s most dramatic and surreal nightlife options is E-Werk, Schanzenstrasse 28 ( 0221/9627910;www.e-werk-cologne.com; U-Bahn: Keupstrasse), a combination of a dance club and a large concert hall. It’s housed within what used to be an electrical power plant. Recorded music alternates with live acts. It’s open every Friday and Saturday night at 10pm until about 3am most nights. Cover is 5€. Concert prices are 19€ to 49€.

Jazz Clubs Klimperkasten (also known as Papa Joe’s Biersalon), Alter Markt 50–52 ( 0221/2582132;www.papajoes.de; U-Bahn: Hauptbahnhof), is an intimate jazz and piano bar open from 11am to 3am, with live music every night beginning around 8pm. The jazz is also hot at Papa Joe’s Jazzlokal, Buttermarkt 37 ( 0221/2577931; U-Bahn: Heumarkt). Sunday, when the music begins at 4pm and lasts until 1am, is the best day to come. The club is also open for live jazz Monday to Saturday 8pm to 3am. Surprisingly, there’s never a cover.

Live Music Clubs Some of the best music in Cologne is played at the aptly named Loft, Wissmannstrasse 30 ( 0221/952155;www.loft-koeln.de). The club was established in 1989 when Hans-Martin Müller, a jazz flutist, converted his apartment into a place to listen to great music. Along with what is perhaps the finest acoustics of any club in the city, the Loft has a large Steinway grand piano as its centerpiece. Some of the best jazz pianists visiting Germany show up here. Call to find out what’s happening and when to show up.

Prime Club (formerly known as Luxor), Luxemburgstrasse 40 ( 0221/2714180;www.prime-entertainment.de; U-Bahn: Barbarossaplatz), offers some kind of live music most nights of the week except Monday. You’ll never know what to expect. The management books unknown, inexperienced bands, some of which show great promise. Hours vary, but usually music starts around 9pm. Cover ranges from 10€ to 20€.

Bars

A 110-year-old bar, Päffgen Bräuhaus, Friesenstrasse 64–66 ( 0221/135461;www.paeffgen-koelsch.de; U-Bahn: Friesenplatz), serves its Kölsch brand of beer, along with regional cuisine. Seating is available indoors and out. It’s open Sunday to Thursday 10am to midnight, Friday and Saturday 10am to 12:30am. Altstadt Päffgen, Heumarkt 62 ( 0221/2577765;www.max-paeffgen.de; U-Bahn: Heumarkt), also serves the local brew and German dishes, and is open Tuesday to Sunday noon to midnight.

At Hotelux, Von Sandt Platz 10 ( 0221/241136;www.hotelux.de), both its food and its scarlet decor are self-consciously Soviet. You can eat platters of Russian food, drink Russian beer or more than two dozen brands of Russian vodka, and sit in a garden with greenery that is thankfully apolitical. It’s open Sunday to Thursday 6pm to 1am, Friday and Saturday 6pm to 3am. The major gay and lesbian scene is Gloria, Apostelnstrasse 11 ( 0221/660630;www.gloria-theater.com; U-Bahn: Neumarkt), a sophisticated rendezvous which also welcomes hip straights This was once a movie house showing feature films, but today it’s a bustling cafe and club known for its occasional themed parties. If there’s music playing, there’s a cover of 5€ to 22€. The club is open Monday to Thursday 9am to 1am, Friday and Saturday 9am to 3am, and Sunday 11am to 1am.

Gay Nightlife

Cologne offers more diversions and distractions for gay men and women than any other city in the Rhineland.

Schampanja, Mauritiuswall 43 ( 0221/2409544;www.schampanja-koeln.de; U-Bahn: Neumarkt), is a small pub that sometimes books live bands (often punk).

Another easygoing pub is Zum Pitter, Alter Markt 58–60 ( 0221/2583122;www.zum-pitter-cologne.de), which is open daily noon to 1am, attracting a young crowd, particularly on a summer night when its courtyard opens to beer drinkers.

The major gay and lesbian scene takes place at Gloria (see above). It also presents theatrical performances with tickets costing 8€ to 30€. It’s open Monday to Thursday 9am to 1am, Friday and Saturday 9am to 3am, and Sunday 11am to 1am.

For more information on Cologne’s LGBT scene, pay a visit to Checkpoint, Pipinstrasse 7 ( 0221/92576868;www.checkpoint-cologne.de; U-Bahn: Zurticherplatz), a privately owned dispenser of nightlife information that performs some of its functions in cooperation with the city’s official tourism authorities. It’s open Wednesday and Thursday 5 to 9pm, Friday and Saturday 2 to 7pm, and Sunday 2 to 6pm.

The first weekend in July is devoted to the city’s Gay Pride Parade, when as many as 500,000 spectators line the parade route for a glimpse of the floats and marchers. For specifics on the parade, contact Checkpoint (see above) or go to www.colognepride.de.

Where to Stay

Very Expensive

Excelsior Hotel Ernst ★★★ In spite of increased competition, notably from the Hyatt Regency, Cologne’s longtime prestige hotel continues to hold its own as the premier address in Cologne. Founded in 1863, the hotel is known for its Empire-style lobby. The public areas contain old-master paintings, including an original work by Van Dyck. The breakfast room has a Gobelin tapestry. Rooms are spacious and up-to-date.

Trankgasse 1–5, Domplatz, 50667 Köln. www.excelsiorhotelernst.de. 0221/2701. Fax 0221/2703333. 152 units. 265€–440€ double; from 360€ suite. Rates include continental breakfast. AE, DC, MC, V. Parking 25€. U-Bahn: Hauptbahnhof. Amenities: 2 restaurants; babysitting; concierge; exercise room; room service; sauna. In room: A/C, TV, hair dryer, minibar, Wi-Fi (22€ per day).

Grandhotel Schloss Bensberg ★★★ The most romantic place to stay in the area is this restored baroque castle constructed 300 years ago by Prince Jan Wellem. Crowning a hill 14km (9 miles) from Cologne, it offers panoramic views of the city.

After lavish renovations, it has been successfully transformed and elegantly furnished with all the modern amenities. Rooms vary in size, but all of them are handsomely equipped with such extras as three phones. Our favorite is no. 307, with its panorama of Cologne and its black-marble bathroom with Jacuzzi. The atmosphere is more intimate and friendly than some drafty castle might suggest. It features special grace notes such as a collection of 10,000 wines in the cellar, a state-of-the-art spa, and 66,000 lights around the pool imitating a night sky.

Kadettenstrasse, 51429 Bergisch Gladbach. www.schlossbensberg.com. 02204/420. Fax 02204/42888. 120 units. 265€–370€ double; from 540€ suite. AE, DC, MC, V. Parking 22€. Amenities: 3 restaurants; bar; airport transfers (75€); babysitting; concierge; exercise room; indoor heated pool; room service; spa. In room: A/C, TV, hair dryer, minibar, Wi-Fi (18€ per day).

Hotel im Wasserturm ★★★ When the tallest water tower in Europe was converted into an 11-story deluxe hotel-in-the-round, at a cost of $75 million, one of the most avant-garde and daring reincarnations of an existing structure in all of Germany was born. Even if living in a water tower is not your idea of a good time, check out the hotel anyway. It’s southwest of the city center, just a mile from the cathedral. The design and decor are ingenious, from the Warhol paintings to the tiled lobby with stunning dark woodwork. The structure is 19th century, but everything else is contemporary. Rooms come in unusual configurations, but each is cleverly designed for comfort, flair, and convenience. Original art and exquisite carpeting fill the spacious rooms, and the bathrooms are deluxe, tiled in mosaics and containing such extras as triptych mirrors, robes, and power showers.

Kaygasse 2, 50676 Köln. www.hotel-im-wasserturm.de. 0221/20080. Fax 0221/2008888. 88 units. 175€–385€ double; from 274€ suite. AE, DC, MC, V. Parking 25€. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; babysitting; concierge; room service; sauna. In room: A/C, TV, hair dryer, minibar, Wi-Fi (13€ per day).

Hyatt Regency ★★ This is the most spectacular and up-to-date hotel in Cologne. It’s an architectural triumph: a mixture of reddish granite, huge expanses of glass, and a facade that combines Art Deco and neo-Aztec styles. The lobby is dramatic, with a 4m (13-ft.) waterfall. Rooms are stylishly furnished and come with walk-in closets. Many have views of the Rhine and the cathedral on the other side. Bathrooms have private phones, deep tubs with showers, robes, and deluxe toiletries. To get to the Altstadt from here, you can take the Hohenzollernbrücke, a bridge across the Rhine.

Kennedy-Ufer 2A, 50679 Cologne-Deutz. www.hyatt.com. 888/591-1234 in the U.S., or 0221/8281234. Fax 0221/8281370. 306 units. 160€–265€ double; from 338€ junior suite. AE, DC, MC, V. Parking 21€. Tram: 1 or 9. Across the Rhine from the Altstadt, a short walk from the train station. Amenities: 2 restaurants; bar; babysitting; concierge; exercise room; indoor heated pool; room service; spa. In room: A/C, TV, hair dryer, minibar, Wi-Fi (18€ per day).

Expensive

Dom Hotel ★★ Few hotels in Germany have been so consistently awarded the official government five stars or maintained such a standard of excellence as this old-world hotel right across from the cathedral. We prefer the Excelsior Hotel Ernst (see above), but there are many clients who will stay nowhere else but the Dom. The hotel’s location, in the shadow of the cathedral, assures it a steady clientele. In summer, the side portico overlooking the square is filled with cafe tables. Rooms have all modern conveniences and a wide collection of period furniture. Try for one of the corner units, which are the most spacious and have the best views. To reach the hotel by car, drive into the square to the side of the Dom’s flying buttresses.

Domkloster 2A, 50667 Köln. www.cologne.lemeridien.com. 800/543-4300 in the U.S., or 0221/20240. Fax 0221/2024444. 124 units. 215€–390€ double; from 340€ suite. AE, DC, MC, V. Parking 20€. U-Bahn: Hauptbahnhof. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; babysitting; bikes; concierge; room service. In room: A/C, TV, hair dryer, minibar, Wi-Fi (24€ per day).

Moderate

Antik-Hotel Bristol ★★ The Bristol is exceptional in that each of its rooms is furnished with genuine antiques, either regal or rustic. There’s a different type of antique bed in almost every room, ranging from French baroque and rococo to something reminiscent of High Rhenish ecclesiastical art; the oldest four-poster dates from 1742. The Bristol stands in a little park, with lots of greenery, flowers, and fountains. It’s near a U-Bahn stop and within walking distance of the cathedral.

Kaiser-Wilhelm-Ring 48, 50672 Köln. www.antik-hotel-bristol.de. 0221/120195. Fax 0221/131495. 44 units. 118€ double; from 136€ suite. Rates include buffet breakfast. AE, DC, MC, V. Parking 12€. U-Bahn: Christophstrasse. Amenities: Bar; babysitting; concierge; room service. In room: TV, hair dryer, minibar, Wi-Fi (free).

Barceló Cologne City Center ★ Opening directly onto the Rudolfplatz, one of Cologne’s most famous squares, this is a modern first-class hotel with a lot of special features, such as a heated indoor pool. Rooms come in a wide range, beginning with standard accommodations and going up to superior rooms with views of the cathedral. Special features include double-glazed windows and sleek, contemporary decor with first-rate amenities. Rooms often come with three phones. Both regional and French cuisine are served, attracting an international crowd that feels at home in this cosmopolitan neighborhood.

Habsburgerring 9–11, 50674 Köln. www.barcelocolognecitycenter.com. 0211/2280. 301 units. 89€–129€ double; from 189€ junior suite. AE, MC, V. Parking 16€. U-Bahn: Neumarkt. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; babysitting; concierge; exercise room; indoor heated pool, room service. In room: A/C, TV, hair dryer, minibar, Wi-Fi (free).

Chelsea ★ This is one of Cologne’s most chic designer boutique hotels, a favorite of painters, art-gallery owners, and other artists. The artfully designed and glamorously contemporary bedrooms have huge, beautifully maintained bathrooms. Original pieces of art fill this well-designed hotel. If you’d like more space and don’t mind spending extra euros, you can opt for one of the junior suites or apartments. The on-site restaurant and cafe is a sophisticated rendezvous point and features a finely honed blend of art and food. It takes about 20 minutes to walk to the center of town.

Jülicherstrasse 1, Belgisches Viertel, 50674 Köln. www.hotel-chelsea.de. 0221/207150. Fax 0221/239137. 35 units. 92€–149€ double; 120€–235€ junior suite or apt. AE, DC, MC, V. Parking 8€. U-Bahn: Rudolfplatz. Amenities: Restaurant; bar. In room: TV, hair dryer, minibar, Wi-Fi (free).

Hopper Hotel et cetera ★ The unusual name of this hotel provides no clue as to its former role as one of the monasteries of Cologne. Only the statue of a bishop in the lobby evokes any former ecclesiastical role. The interior, which received a radically contemporary overhaul, contrasts dramatically with the older landmark-status exterior. Some of Cologne’s finer artists have their works on display in the bedrooms, which are elegantly but a bit sparsely furnished. The parquet floors are made of eucalyptus, and the units are fitted with handsomely designed cherrywood furnishings. Try to avoid the small so-called “cloister cells,” rooms better suited for the monks of old. Two of the double rooms have connecting doors, making them suitable for families. We’d opt for one of the junior suites if available, as they come with such extra amenities as a kitchenette. The top-floor room boasts a roof terrace and deck chair. The hotel lies in the fashionable district of Cologne known as Belgisches Viertel.

Brüsselerstrasse 26, 50674 Köln. www.hopper.de. /fax 0221/924400. 49 units. 120€–140€ double; 150€–170€ suite. Rates include continental breakfast. AE, DC, MC, V. Parking 13€. U-Bahn: Molttestrasse. Amenities: Restaurant; exercise room; sauna. In room: TV, hair dryer, minibar, Wi-Fi (free).

Hopper Hotel St. Antonius Named after a statue of St. Antonius that stands in the garden (the owners bought it during a holiday in Portugal), this hotel rises five very modern floors from a location in the heart of Cologne’s historic core. You’ll register in a lobby sheathed with slabs of gray stone and floored with stone mosaics. The same colors are repeated within the very contemporary-looking bedrooms, with wooden floors, marble-sheathed bathrooms, and teak-wood furniture. This is a well-selected and popular choice with lots of comfort and style and an articulate staff.

Dagobertstrasse 32, 50668 Köln. www.hopper.de. 0221/16600. Fax 0221/1660166. 54 units. 145€–180€ double; 170€–220€ suite. AE, DC, MC, V. Parking 13€. U-Bahn: Ebertplatz or Dom/Hauptbahnhof. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; room service. In room: TV, fax, kitchenette (in some), minibar, Wi-Fi (free).

Santo ★ This hotel comes as a surprise in Cologne because it’s so different from its competitors—an oasis of feng shui with an array of orchids and open spaces, plus a beautiful teak bar in the front. Light is the focal point of the architects’ philosophy, and the staff is trained in offering individualized hospitality. The hotel is a unique blend of materials, some of it old, such as fine oak wood. But it’s also as modern as tomorrow with its Kreon lamps creating shifting patterns of light. The bathrooms are laid out in a sleek, contemporary fashion, and the minimalist bedrooms are comfortable with an elegant design that relies on simplicity more than clutter. Only breakfast is provided, but there are many good restaurants nearby.

Dagoberstrasse 22, 50668 Köln. www.hotelsanto.de. 0221/9139770. Fax 0221/913977777. 69 units. 119€–160€ double. Rates include buffet breakfast. AE, DC, MC, V. Parking 15€. U-Bahn: Ebertplatz. Amenities: Bar; room service. In room: A/C, TV, hair dryer.

Inexpensive

Brandenburger Hof In this family style hotel, all rooms are small and pleasantly decorated, and many come with a private bathroom. For those that don’t, corridor bathrooms are adequate, with a couple on each floor. A full breakfast, including orange juice and eggs, is served in a cozy room or, in summer, in the garden. The hotel is about 3 blocks from the river and within walking distance of the cathedral.

Brandenburgerstrasse 2–4, 50668 Köln. www.brandenburgerhof.de. 0221/122889. Fax 0221/135304. 45 units, 28 with bathroom. 50€–95€ double without bathroom; 70€–155€ double with bathroom; 75€–120€ triple without bathroom; 85€–195€ triple with bathroom; 85€–130€ quad without bathroom. Rates include continental breakfast. No credit cards. Free parking. U-Bahn: Hauptbahnhof. Amenities: Wi-Fi (free; in lobby). In room: No phone.

Coellner Hof Set within a 10-minute walk north of the cathedral, this six-story, turn-of-the-20th-century building houses a well-maintained, comfortable hotel that has received well-deserved praise from several readers. Public areas are distinguished looking, and some, including the dining room, are richly paneled. Each room is decorated in a conservative, solid style that evokes a baronial German home. The newer bedrooms have been updated in a crisp, comfortable, and clean modern international style that’s soothing in its use of neutral, monochromatic colors and dark hardwoods. Bedrooms are larger than the norm in government-rated three-star hotels.

Hansaring 100, 50670 Köln. www.coellnerhof.de. 0221/16660. Fax 0221/1666166. 78 units. 80€–195€ double. Rates include continental breakfast. AE, DC, MC, V. Parking 8€. U-Bahn: Ebertplatz. Amenities: Bar; restaurant; sauna. In room: TV, hair dryer, Wi-Fi (free).

Düsseldorf ★

Düsseldorf

40km (25 miles) N of Cologne (Köln), 230km (143 miles) NW of Frankfurt

Wealthy Düsseldorf, the richest city in Germany, is situated in the western North Rhine-Westphalia region. It’s large, full of banks, offices and skyscrapers, but it’s also refreshingly clean. Düsseldorf began as a settlement on the right bank of the Rhine, but today it’s spread out on both sides—the older part on the right, and the avant-garde, commercial, and industrial part on the left. Parks and esplanades line the riverbanks and today it’s the most elegant metropolis in the Rhine Valley.

Things to Do Wander through the Altstadt (Old Town), a thick ribbon of cobbled lanes in the center of town and admire its 1573 Gothic Rathaus (City Hall). North of the Rathaus you’ll spy the 13th-century St-Lambertus Basilika (St. Lambertis Church)—it stands out like a brilliant giant with its splendid, twisted spire. After, head east to the Kunstsammlung Nordrhein-Westfalen: K20, a contemporary black glass museum. Its post-WWII art includes more than 100 Paul Klee paintings.

Shopping The Rhine Valley’s most famous shopping street, Königsallee, resides in the center of town. Lined with high-end designer shops like Gucci and Chanel to make your credit card ache, it’s fun to window-shop. On a slow stroll, ponder the elaborate displays of haute couture and take in the elegant, swanky feel. Don’t be surprised if you pass ladies in fur coats boutique-hopping—Düsseldorf is a magnet for fashionistas.

Nightlife & Entertainment Nightlife centers around the Altstadt, which brims with inviting bars and historic beer taverns. The area feels like one big bar on weekends and it can get rather boisterous, but it’s all in good, friendly fun. Many venues here serve Düsseldorf’s signature Altbier, a dark, semisweet brew. Drop by Bräuerei Schumacher, a well-loved stalwart with exposed timber overhead and tile-decorated walls. This brewpub only serves its own beers, including Schumacher Alt, its version of the city’s popular Altbier, of course.

Restaurants & Dining Düsseldorf’s most historic restaurant (notables from Napoleon to Arthur Miller allegedly once ate here) is Zum Schiffchen. Settle into the atmospheric, rustic space for belly-filling Wursts and Schnitzels, plus lighter seasonal specialties like white asparagus in May. A 180-degree turn literally awaits you at Rheinturm Top 180 Restaurant, where you can sample international fare, like rack of lamb with rosemary potatoes and salmon with lime crust, while slowly spinning atop the otherworldly Rheinturm, a silvery communication tower and Düsseldorf’s tallest building.

Essentials

Getting There

By Plane Düsseldorf International Airport, 6km (4 miles) north of the city, has regularly scheduled connections to 14 German, 47 European, and 132 international airports. You can fly from Frankfurt to Düsseldorf in just 45 minutes or from Munich or Berlin in an hour. For flight information, call 0211/4210 or visit www.duesseldorf-international.de.

The airport is linked to the GermanRail network. Transfer to the Düsseldorf main rail station is via S-Bahn 11, offering service daily 4:03am to 12:30am, with trains every 20 minutes (trip time: 12 min.). One-way fare is 3€. For information, call 01805/996633 (www.bahn.de). Regular airport buses also connect the airport with Bonn and Cologne. A taxi ride to central Düsseldorf takes about 20 to 30 minutes and costs from 25€, depending on traffic.

By Train The main train station, the Düsseldorf Hauptbahnhof, on Konrad-Adenauer-Platz in the southeastern sector, offers frequent connections to all major cities. The trip time to Frankfurt is about 2 1/2 hours; to Munich, about 7 hours. For information, call 01805/996633 (www.bahn.de). Düsseldorf also has extensive regional rail links; for information on regional trains or trams, call 0211/58228. Luggage-storage facilities are available at the Hauptbahnhof.

By Bus Access to Düsseldorf is a lot easier by rail than by bus. The region’s largest carrier is Adorf GmbH ( 0211/418970;www.adorf.de), most of whose buses service small towns within the Rhineland that don’t necessarily have railway stations of their own. Buses usually pull into Düsseldorf at the northern edge of the Bahnhofplatz.

By Car Access to Düsseldorf is by the A3 Autobahn north and south or the A46 east and west.

Visitor Information

For information, go to the Tourist Office, Immermannstrasse 65B ( 0211/17202844;www.duesseldorf-tourismus.de), opposite the railway station. It’s open Monday to Saturday 9:30am to 7pm. The office also has a hotel reservations service, which charges a one-time booking fee of 5€, along with a deposit that equals the price of the first night’s accommodations. For the tourist office’s room reservation services, call 0211/1720224 Monday to Saturday 9:30am to 6:30pm.

Getting Around

Düsseldorf is a big, sprawling city, so you’ll probably want to rely on public transportation. The city and environs are served by a network of S-Bahn railways that fan out to the suburbs, along with buses, Strassenbahn (trams), and a U-Bahn system. Ask at the tourist office ( 0211/17202844) about purchasing a Düsseldorf WelcomeCard, offering free use of public transportation as well as free entrance to city museums, and reductions on city tours, boat rides, and opera and ballet tickets. Valid for 24 hours, the welcome card costs 9€ for an adult or 18€ for a group/family card (two adults plus two children 14 and under, or three adults). A welcome card valid for 48 hours goes for 14€ for an adult or 28€ for a group/family card. A 72-hour card is available for 19€ for individuals and 38€ for groups/families.

Taxi meters begin at 5.50€ for the first 2km, after which you’ll be billed 1.70€ per kilometer. To call for a taxi in Düsseldorf, dial 0211/33333.

Exploring Düsseldorf

As in most German cities, there’s an Altstadt (Old Town), with a Marktplatz (Marketplace), a Gothic Rathaus (Town Hall), and a few old buildings and churches. Near the Rathaus on Burgplatz are two of the city’s most famous landmarks, the twisted spire of St-Lambertus Basilika (St. Lambertus Church) and the Schlossturm (Castle Tower), both of 13th-century origin. A short walk to the east takes you to St-Andreas Basilika (St. Andreas Church).

The Altstadt has been called “the longest bar in the world” because of the 200-plus bars and restaurants found here. The favorite drink is a top-fermented Altbier (old beer); it’s a dark, mellow brew that must be consumed soon after it’s made.

A walk up Königsallee, called the “Kö” by Düsseldorfers, will give visitors a quick overview of the city and its residents. This street flanks an ornamental canal, shaded by trees and crossed by bridges. One bank is lined with office buildings, the other with elegant shops, cafes, and restaurants. Here you’ll see women dressed in the very latest styles. Düsseldorf is the fashion center of Germany. It’s known for its Fashion Weeks, which attract designers and buyers from all over Europe.

If you walk up the Kö toward the Trident Fountain at the northern end of the canal, you’ll reach the Hofgarten, a huge, rambling park. Here you can wander along paths or sit and relax amid shade trees, gardens, fountains, and statues, almost forgetting you’re in the very center of the city. Among the monuments is one to the poet Heinrich Heine. The Hofgarten is a good central point for seeing the city’s major attractions—nearly all museums and cultural attractions are on its perimeter. Towering over the Hofgarten is Düsseldorf’s most impressive skyscraper, the Thyssen-Haus. Residents call it the Dreischeibenhaus (“three-slice house”), because it actually looks like three huge monoliths sandwiched together. Northeast of the Hofgarten is Basilika St. Rochus, one of the city’s finest modern churches.

Düsseldorf continues its bold march into the 21st century, especially in its once dilapidated but now trendy MedienHafen district. Originally this was a flourishing warehouse sector in the 19th century. Today it is often a showcase for modern architecture, especially in the office buildings and other works of Frank O. Gehry, winner of the Pritzker prize, the Nobel Prize of architecture. Of course, Gehry’s far better known work is his celebrated titanium masterpiece, the Guggenheim Museum in Bilbao, Spain.

Düsseldorf’s most striking example of his work is the ensemble of “organic-looking” high-rises at Neuer Zollhof. This trio of buildings with their wavy lines can easily be spotted along the waterfront. Yachts and luxury cruisers stud the harbor at the foot of the Rhine Tower of MedienHafen. For the best view of these avant-garde buildings, including Gehry’s controversial architecture, walk down the water-bordering promenade, Am Handelshafen, beginning at the Rheim Turm (Rhine Tower), heading toward Franziusstrasse.

Goethe-Museum Düsseldorf MUSEUM The Anton and Katharina Kippenberg Foundation sponsors this literary museum dedicated to Goethe’s life and work. It emerged from the Kippenbergs’ private collection of some 35,000 items, including autographs, books, busts, paintings, coins, medals, plaques, and china. About 1,000 pieces are shown in the permanent exhibition, including first drafts of well-known poems. The displays present a chronology of Goethe’s life and work. There are also exhibits on various topics of the Goethe era.

Schloss-Jägerhof, Jacobistrasse 2. 0211/8996262.www.goethe-museum.com. Admission 3€ adults, 1.50€ children. Tues–Fri and Sun 11am–5pm; Sat 1–5pm. Tram: 704 or 707. Bus: 722 or 800.

Heinrich-Heine-Institut MUSEUM Heinrich Heine (1797–1856) was Germany’s greatest lyric poet. More than 10,000 volumes, as well as the manuscript bequest of this Düsseldorf-born poet, are found here. Born into a Jewish family, Heine nominally converted to Christianity so that he could attend law school. He was the author of the famous Die Lorelei, and his poems were set to music by Schubert, Schumann, and Hugo Wolf. His work was prohibited during the Nazi era, during which Die Lorelei was officially attributed to an unknown author. In the Altstadt, you visit the house where Heine was born. It’s at Bolkerstrasse 53 and is marked by a plaque.

Bilkerstrasse 12–14. 0211/8995574. Admission 3€ adults, free for children 17 and under. Tues–Fri and Sun 11am–5pm; Sat 1–5pm. Tram: 704 or 707.

Kunsthalle Düsseldorf MUSEUM The Kunsthalle Düsseldorf is devoted to contemporary art from the Rhineland and throughout Europe. No other museum in the city keeps up with changing trends in art as well as this one. Visiting exhibits of every shape and size, often bizarre, are displayed here. If time remains, visit the museum’s latest attraction, KIT (Kunst im Tunnel). This is an “art tunnel” literally under the museum. Here up-and-coming artists display their work, and exhibitions are frequently changed.

Grabbeplatz 4. 0211/8996243.www.kunsthalle-duesseldorf.de. Admission 5.50€ adults, 3.50€ students and children 10–15, free for children 9 and under. Tues–Sun 11am–6pm. U-Bahn: Heinrich-Heine-Allee. Across from the Kunstsammlung Nordrhein-Westfalen, west of the Hofgarten.

Kunstsammlung Nordrhein-Westfalen: K2O Kunstsammlung am Grabbeplatz ★ MUSEUM This museum is divided into two museums, but the K20 Grabbeplatz location is the older and superior art center (see next review below for the second location). The black-glass edifice here is one of the most stunning modern buildings in the city. The most important exhibit is a collection of nearly 100 paintings by Paul Klee, the famous Swiss painter who once taught at Düsseldorf’s National Academy of Art. The museum also displays an outstanding exhibition of surrealist art, including Salvador Dalí. Some of the major modern 20th-century artists are on display, including works by everybody from Picasso to Matisse, along with Bonnard, Léger, Johns, and Pollock. You’ll also see a series of American masterpieces dating from 1946, as well as some of the lesser known but very celebrated painters of the 20th century, including art by Markus Lüpertz, Per Kirkeby, and Gerhard Richter. Six major temporary exhibits of art land here annually.

Grabbeplatz 5 (opposite the Kunsthalle). 0211/8381130.www.kunstsammlung.de. Admission 6.50€ adults, 4.50€ students and children. Tues–Fri 10am–6pm (until 10pm 1st Wed of every month); Sat–Sun 11am–6pm. U-Bahn: Heinrich-Heine-Allee.

Kunstsammlung Nordrhein-Westfalen: K21 Kunstsammlung im Ständehaus MUSEUM This is the second division of the more famous K20 Kunstsammlung (see above). On display at K21 is international art that dates from 1980 and extends into the postmillennium period. It defines itself—and certainly its future—as a museum for the art of the 21st century. This is a museum in the making, and it is expected that its fledgling collection will be beefed up every year as bequests come in. The present collection is augmented by contributing museums that agree to lend great art for a limited period. K21 also displays works from some of the great collections in private hands in Germany. Don’t expect all future art to be paintings. As a showplace of the 21st century, photography is embraced, as are moving images on film and video. If you have limited time, head for K20. But if you want to take “potluck,” see what’s being displayed at K21. It will certainly be worth your while.

Ständehausstrasse 1. 0211/8381600.www.kunstsammlung.de. Admission 6.50€ adults, 4.50€ students and children. Tues–Fri 10am–6pm (until 10pm 1st Wed of every month); Sat–Sun 11am–6pm. Tram: 703, 706, 712, 713, or 715 to Graf-Adolf-Platz.

Museum Kunst Palast ★ MUSEUM This is one of the largest and most comprehensive museums in the Rhineland. The painting collection includes works by Rubens, Caspar David Friedrich, and the Die Brücke and Der Blaue Reiter schools. The sculpture collection ranges from the late Middle Ages to the 20th century. There are also some 80,000 prints and drawings, as well as early Persian bronzes and ceramics, a glass collection, textiles from late antiquity to the present, and a design collection.

Ehrenhof 5. 0211/8990200.www.museum-kunst-palast.de. Admission 11€ adults, 9€ students and children. Tues–Sun 11am–6pm, until 9pm Thurs. Tram: 701, 706, 711, or 715.

Where to Eat

Very Expensive

Im Schiffchen ★★★ FRENCH/SEAFOOD The chefs at Im Schiffchen deliver a refined, brilliantly realized repertoire of the finest cuisine you’ll find in any city along the Rhine. The ingredients that go into the meals are unimpeachably authentic—every tomato, every onion, every fish or piece of meat seems to have been thoroughly evaluated for quality before purchasing. The menu is ever-changing, based on seasonal variations, but you might find homemade goose-liver pâté with green peppercorns, Brittany lobster in chamomile petals, a delectable Norwegian salmon in Vouvray sauce, or lobster cooked in chamomile tea. We could return again and again for the pikeperch cooked aromatically in puff pastry. The desserts are luscious; try the granulated fruit mélange with almond cream.

Kaiserswerther Markt 9. 0211/401050.www.im-schiffchen.com. Reservations required. Main courses 32€–56€. AE, DC, MC, V. Tues–Sat 7–10:30pm. Tram: 79 to Klemensplatz. On the outskirts of the city, at Kaiserswerth.

Victorian Restaurant ★★★ CONTINENTAL/INTERNATIONAL This is the finest restaurant in the city center. The decor features sparkling crystal, black-leather banquettes, and masses of flowers. The food represents the best of both traditional and modern schools. The best examples include heavenly deep-fried zucchini flowers stuffed with lobster mousse and flavored with a sauce of champagne vinegar and coriander, apple salad with slices of goose liver, and three-vegetable purée. The delectable desserts change with the inspiration of the pastry chef but might include terrine of oranges served with raspberry liqueur and fresh mint.

Nearby is the Bistro im Victorian, with a minimalist interior design. The kitchen area is wide open, so you can watch as the fresh ingredients are whipped into meals. Main courses in the Bistro cost from 18€ to 26€.

Königstrasse 3A. 0211/865500.www.restaurant-victorian.de. Reservations required for the restaurant, recommended for the bistro. Main courses 24€–68€; fixed-price menus lunch 34€–48€, dinner 78€–118€. AE, DC, MC, V. Mon–Sat noon–3pm and 7–11pm. Tram: 77 or 79.

Expensive

Rheinturm Top 180 Restaurant ★ GERMAN/INTERNATIONAL This futuristic restaurant is set atop the spool-shaped summit of the city’s tallest tower (172m/564 ft.) and revolves slowly, affording a 360-degree panorama of Düsseldorf’s buildings and parks. Most people come here for the view, but the food is competently prepared and includes grills, game dishes, fish, and soups. Try the slices of smoked duck breast with creamy savoy cabbage, or rolls of salmon stuffed with turbot filling and served in Riesling-and-saffron sauce. Vegetarian courses are also featured. Menu items focus on fresh seasonal ingredients, and the menu sometimes celebrates the arrival of fresh asparagus in springtime, as well as fresh fish and fresh game whenever it’s in season. A trip to the tower’s observation deck costs 3.60€ for adults, 2.90€ for children 13 to 17, and 2€ for children 6 to 12; kids 5 and under go free. The tower is open daily 10am to 11:30pm.

Stromstrasse 20. 0211/8632000.www.guennewig.de. Reservations recommended. Main courses 23€–31€. AE, DC, MC, V. Daily noon–2:30pm and 6:30–11:30pm. Tram: 704, 709, or 719. Bus: 725.

Moderate

Zum Schiffchen ★ RHINELANDER Come here if you’re looking for Düsseldorf’s most traditional and atmospheric restaurant. Zum Schiffchen, in the heart of the Altstadt, is the city’s oldest restaurant. A golden model ship on top of the step-gabled building (which dates from 1628) reminds you of its location, near the river. The interior follows the tavern tradition of scrubbed wooden tables and rustic artifacts. Good, hefty portions of regional cuisine are the rule here. Menu items include such two-fisted German specialties as Wursts, Sauerbraten, Schnitzels, knuckle of pork with roast potatoes, and great emphasis on seasonal specialties like asparagus. The menu is large, and the service by the blue-aproned waiters (called Köbesse) is rather hectic. Zum Schiffchen is the perfect place to sample Frankenheim, Düsseldorf’s local beer. Over the years, the restaurant has attracted a host of famous diners, ranging from Napoleon and Heinrich Heine to Arthur Miller.

Hafenstrasse 5. 0211/132421.www.brauerei-zum-schiffchen.de. Reservations required. Main courses 10€–29€. AE, DC, MC, V. Mon–Sat 11am–10:45pm. U-Bahn: Heinrich-Heine-Allee. A block from the Rhine.

Inexpensive

Im Alten Bierhause RHINELANDER Lying 1.5km (1 mile) from the center, this place is actually more of a wine tavern than a restaurant. The building dates from 1641. Style connoisseurs will recognize it as typical of the Rhine’s left bank (as opposed to the right, the left bank has more of a bohemian aura). Traditional German specialties are served here. The house specialty is Speck-Pfannenkuchen, a bacon pancake; a similar version is made with marmalade. On Sunday the beer drinkers pile in at 11am. The specialty of the house is that dark and foamy local brew, Altbier.

Alt-Niederkassel 75. 0211/551272.www.meuser1853.de. Reservations required. Main courses 10€–25€. No credit cards. Tues–Sat 3–11:30pm; Sun 11am–11pm. Closed 3 weeks in July–Aug (dates vary). Bus: 834. On the outskirts.

Zum Schlüssel GERMAN As Germanic as the Rhine and set within the pedestrian zone in the heart of town, Zum Schlüssel thrived as a brewery under the name Alt Gatzweiler during the early 20th century, then folded, and was reborn as a smaller-scale brewery. Today, its fermentation vats and elaborate pipes are visible from the wood-sheathed dining room. The beer that arrives in frothy mugs is the Alt Schlüssel brand, available in various degrees of darkness, depending on the season. Menu items are Germanic dishes that complement the beer, and include Sauerbraten, Schnitzel, Eisbein (pork knuckles), homemade soups, freshly made salads, and succulent steaks.

Zum Schlüssel Bolkerstrasse 43–47. 0211/8289550.www.zumschluessel.de. Reservations recommended. Main courses 8€–16€; fixed-price menus 21€–27€. AE, DC, MC, V. Daily 10am–midnight (Fri–Sat until 1am). U-Bahn: Heinrich-Heine-Allee.

Shopping

Düsseldorf is a city of high fashion and high prices. Many chic Europeans visit the city just to shop for what’s new and hot. The best and trendiest fashions are sold on the opulent east side of the Königsallee. The two largest concentrations of designer shops are found at the Kö Galerie, Königsallee 60, and the Kö Center, Königsallee 30. Each gallery has some 100 shops. Those not interested in dishing out lots of euros for designer duds should head for the more recently opened Schadow Arcade, off Schadowplatz, at the end of the Kö. Fashion here isn’t so haute, but neither are the prices. Shoppers spend some 500 million euros in the shops on Schadowstrasse annually—more than is spent on any other street in the country.

Antiques Düsseldorf’s historic core contains a fine selection of antiques stores. Lothar Heubel, Bastionstrasse 27 ( 0211/134103; U-Bahn: Heinrich-Heine-Allee), specializes in Asian and African antiques, including jewelry, ceramics, and Chinese items from the Han, Ming, and Tang dynasties, mixed in with a handful of antiques from Provence and the south of France.

Department Stores Carsch Haus, Heinrich-Heine-Platz ( 0211/83970;www.galeria-kaufhof.de; U-Bahn: Heinrich-Heine-Allee), carries a good selection of fashions, as well as quality home furnishings, jewelry, and other items.

Designer Clothing & Accessories Bogner Haus, Königsallee 6–8 ( 0211/134222), carries functional sportswear that’s meant for action on the golf course, tennis court, and ski slopes. The designers have their workshop on the second floor.

Chanel, Kö Center ( 0211/325935;www.chanel.com), offers the company’s complete line of products, from clothing to cosmetics and fragrances.

Shoes and more shoes fill the racks at Walter Steiger Schuhe, Grunstrasse 4 ( 0211/134104), the German designer of high-quality, high-fashion footwear. In the boutique of Louis Vuitton, Kö Center ( 0211/323230;www.louisvuitton.com), leather accessories, luggage, and handbags are sold.

Jewelry & Watches Located in the heart of the designer shopping district, Wempe Juwelier, Königsallee 14 ( 0211/324077;www.wempe.de), is one of a chain of 23 shops scattered throughout Düsseldorf that carries Swiss watches and jewelry designs in gold, silver, and precious stones.

Nightlife & Entertainment

The place to go for nightlife in Düsseldorf is the Altstadt. This .8 sq. km (1⁄3 sq. mile) of narrow streets and alleyways, between Königsallee and the Rhine River, is jampacked with restaurants, dance clubs, art galleries, boutiques, nightclubs, and some 200 song-filled beer taverns. Düsseldorfers refer to a night cruising the Altstadt as an Altstadttbummel.

The Performing Arts Classical music has long had an illustrious association with this city, once home to Brahms, Mendelssohn, and Schumann (though there are no specific tourist sites relating to them in Düsseldorf). Therefore, it’s not surprising that both the Düsseldorfer Symphoniker and its home, Tonhalle, Ehrenhof 1 ( 0211/8996123 box office; www.tonhalle-duesseldorf.de; U-Bahn: Tonhalle), are world famous. The Tonhalle is perhaps Germany’s most successful modern concert hall after Berlin’s Philharmonie. The highly regarded orchestra gives about a dozen concerts a year, with tickets running 25€ to 89€. Deutsche Oper am Rhein, Heinrich-Heine-Allee 16A ( 0211/8908211;www.rheinoper.de; U-Bahn: Heinrich-Heine-Allee), is one of the city’s renowned opera and ballet companies. Tickets are 11€ to 120€.

Schauspielhaus, Gustav-Gründgens-Platz 1 ( 0211/85230;www.duesseldorfer-schauspielhaus.de; U-Bahn: Heinrich-Heine-Allee), is known all over Germany for its outstanding productions and acting. Performances (in German) take place September to June, and tickets cost 14€ to 44€.

Bars & Beer Halls The oldest brewery-bar in the city is Bräuerei Schumacher, Oststrasse 123 ( 0211/8289020;www.schumacher-alt.de; U-Bahn: Oststrasse), a popular establishment that serves only beer brewed by its parent company. It’s open daily 10am to midnight. Two other breweries, each serving beer brewed on the premises, are Brauerei im Füchschen, Ratingerstrasse 28 ( 0211/137470;www.fuechschen.de; U-Bahn: Heinrich-Heine-Allee), and Bräuerei zum Schlüssel, Bolkerstrasse 43 ( 0211/828955;www.hausbrauerei-zum-schluessel.de; U-Bahn: Heinrich-Heine-Allee), both of which also offer platters of German food.

Dance Clubs A hot dance spot, Stahwerk, Ronsdorferstrasse 134 ( 0211/730350;www.stahlwerk.de; U-Bahn: Langenbergerstrasse), intersperses recorded dance music with live acts from throughout Europe. The club draws a mixed, fashion-conscious crowd. Charging a cover of 6€ to 18€, it is open Friday and Saturday 10pm to about 6am.

Live Music Clubs A popular piano bar, Bei Tino, Königsallee 21 ( 0211/326463;www.beitino.com; U-Bahn: Königsallee), has music noon to 3am nightly; guests are often allowed to play the piano. McLaughlin’s Irish Pub, Kurzestrasse 11 ( 0211/324611;www.mclaughlins.de; U-Bahn: Heinrich-Heine-Allee), serves Guinness and Murphy’s as well as traditional Irish food, and presents touring Irish bands on the weekend. It’s open Sunday to Thursday 5pm to 1am and Friday and Saturday 11am to 3am.

Gay Clubs You’ll find Düsseldorf’s gay nightlife integrated into straight clubs (a trend happening all over western Europe these days).

Where to Stay

Very Expensive

Steigenberger Park-Hotel ★★ This traditional deluxe German hotel has been completely modernized and reequipped to meet modern demands. Its central location, overlooking the Hofgarten Park, is virtually unbeatable, which may explain why it attracts so many conventions and groups. The Steigenberger maintains a high level of service in the old-world style. All rooms, refitted to the latest standards, are cozy and comfortable. Bathrooms have makeup mirrors, robes, and the latest plumbing.

Königsallee 1a, 40212 Düsseldorf 1. www.steigenberger.de. 800/223-5652 in the U.S. and Canada, or 0211/13810. Fax 0211/1381592. 134 units. 240€–265€ double; from 700€ suite. Rates include buffet breakfast. AE, DC, MC, V. Free parking. Tram: 78 or 79. Bus: 778. Amenities: Restaurant; 2 bars; babysitting; concierge; exercise room; room service; spa. In room: A/C (in some), TV, hair dryer, minibar, Wi-Fi (18€ per day).

Expensive

Ashley’s Garden ★★ Posh, upscale, distinguished, and very quiet, this hotel occupies what was built in 1938 as a stately looking villa in the wealthy residential suburb of Golzheim, 5km (3 miles) north of the city center. Set within a 5-minute walk of both the Rhine and the Düsseldorf Messe (fairgrounds), it’s completely outfitted, in both the bedrooms and the public areas, with English antiques and yard upon yard of Laura Ashley fabrics. The overall feel is that of an English country house. Terraces overlook a pleasant garden. Bedrooms are exceedingly comfortable, beautifully furnished, and spacious for the most part.

Karl-Kleppe-Strasse 20, 40474 Düsseldorf Ortsteil Golzheim. www.ashleysgarden.de. 0211/5161710. Fax 0211/453299. 42 units. 150€–365€ double. Rates include continental breakfast. AE, DC, MC, V. Free parking. U-Bahn: Reeserplatz. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; bikes; outdoor pool. In room: TV, Wi-Fi (free).

Radisson Blu Media Harbour Hotel ★ The architect of this hotel was inspired by the harbor, creating a stunning V-shaped facade of Brazilian slate with panoramic windows. The outer walls not only look transparent, but also slant. In the center of MedienHafen, an emerging district south of the center, the hotel offers luxurious and stylish bedrooms, furnished in a dramatically modern style. Its lounge with a fireplace is a cozy retreat, and the Italian food at Amano is among the best in the city. Both the vacationer and the business traveler will find comfort here.

Hammer Strasse 23, 40219 Düsseldorf. www.mediaharbour.duesseldorf.radissonsas.com. 800/333-3332 or 0211/311190. Fax 0211/3119110. 135 units. 146€–370€ double; from 488€ suite. AE, DC, MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; concierge; exercise room; room service; sauna. In room: A/C, TV, hair dryer, minibar, Wi-Fi (free).

Moderate

Maritim Hotel Düsseldorf ★ This is the largest hotel in the region, a magnet for conventions from many of the major corporations within the surrounding North Rhine and Westphalia region. Conveniently positioned near the airport, it is also suitable for both vacationers and business travelers. It boasts one of the best, most modern, and sophisticated decors of any hotel in Düsseldorf. The higher up you go, the better your room and facilities. Most accommodations are spacious and beautifully furnished. There are all sorts of special rooms here, even for those with vision or hearing impairments, and units for those with allergies.

Maritim Platz 1, 40474 Düsseldorf. www.maritim.de. 0211/52090. Fax 0211/52091000. 533 units. 135€–255€ double; 229€–605€ suite. AE, DC, MC, V. Parking 21€. Amenities: 3 restaurants; 2 bars; babysitting; concierge; exercise room; room service. In room: A/C, TV, hair dryer, minibar, Wi-Fi (19€ per day).

Inexpensive

Fürstenhof This hotel is a good choice in the center of town. It’s modern but not glaringly so and opens onto a tree-filled square. Rooms are handsomely furnished, each ranging in size from medium to spacious. Most of the guest rooms are at the lower end of the price scale. Half the breakfast room is reserved for nonsmoking guests.

Fürstenplatz 3, 40215 Düsseldorf 1. www.fuerstenhof-duesseldorf.de. 0211/386460. Fax 0211/379062. 43 units. 75€–245€ double. Rates include buffet breakfast. AE, DC, MC, V. Parking 7€. Closed Dec 24–Jan 2. Tram: 701, 707, or 708. Bus: 725. Pets allowed. Amenities: Babysitting; children’s center; exercise room; room service; sauna. In room: A/C, TV, hair dryer, minibar, Wi-Fi (free).

Wurms Hotel The Wurms Hotel, set in a five-story stucco building, is a good budget choice, even though it has an expensive room or two. The small rooms are done in dark wood offset by bright bedspreads and curtains. The buffet breakfast is the only meal served. The hotel is a short walk from the central landmark square, Graf-Adolf-Platz.

Scheurenstrasse 23, 40215 Düsseldorf. www.hotel-wurms.de. 0211/375001. Fax 0211/375003. 27 units. 85€–395€ double. Rates include buffet breakfast. MC, V. Parking 8€–15€. Tram: 734, 741, or 752. Bus: 835. Near Graf-Adolf-Strasse, about 4 blocks from the Hauptbahnhof. Amenities: Room service. In room: TV, Wi-Fi (10€ per day).

The Mosel Valley

If ever you were searching for a river that was “off the beaten path,” the Mosel would make a great candidate. More meandering and pastoral than the world-renowned Rhine into which it flows, the Mosel valley’s verdant vineyards and lush forests blanket the hillsides, topped with castles both ruined and restored. Every village here tells a story, one that recalls the region’s prominent status in Roman times, and its precarious proximity to France. If the scenery is not enough of a reason to visit, the region’s excellent wines provide an added treat.

The Mosel (Moselle in French) springs out of the Vosges hills of France, and is at its most scenic in the 193 serpentine kilometers (120 miles) between Trier and Koblenz. Traveling downstream from Trier offers the chance to use the museums of the former Roman city as an introduction to the region. Also, one-way boat trips are slightly shorter, but who’s in a rush? Trier caps off nicely a trip upstream from Koblenz, and is an ideal destination for visitors coming from the Rhine Valley, or the international airports at Frankfurt and Düsseldorf.

Cochem ★

The Mosel Valley

92km (57 miles) NE of Trier, 51km (32 miles) SW of Koblenz

A memorable highlight of your valley trip may be rounding a bend in the river and seeing this medieval town for the first time. At the base of a vineyard-covered hill topped with a castle, Cochem features three medieval gates (the Endertor, Martinstor, and Balduinstor), several half-timbered houses, and a large selection of inns. Its rail and road connections also make it a great overnight stopover between Koblenz and Trier.

Essentials

Getting There

By Train The architecturally striking Cochem Bahnhof is on the Trier-Koblenz rail line, with frequent service between these connecting cities. For information, call 01805/996633 (www.bahn.de).

By Bus Regional bus service along the Mosel is provided by RMV Rhein Mosel Verkehrsgesellschaft ( 01805/7684636;www.bahn.de) and by Moselbahn, GmbH ( 06531/96800;www.moselbahn.de).

By Car Access is via the A48 Autobahn on the Koblenz-Trier express highway; exit either at Ulmen or at Kaisersesch.

By Boat Boat rides on the Mosel River operate between Trier and Cochem. Contact Gebrüder Kolb, Briedern/Mosel ( 02673/1515;www.moselfahrplan.de).

Visitor Information

For tourist information, contact the Verkehrsamt, Endertplatz 1 ( 02671/60040;www.cochem.de), open Monday to Friday 9am to 1pm and 2 to 5pm, in June also Saturday 9am to 3pm; from July to October, it is also open Saturday 9am to 5pm and Sunday 11am to 4pm.

Special Events Wine festivals celebrating the region’s wines with tasting booths fill the small streets in the summer months, beginning with the Mosel-Wein-Woche in the last week in May or the first week of June. The Cochemer Weinlagenfest follows suit in late June and early July; a similar Weinfest wraps up the festivities in the last weekend of August. For information on either of these events, contact the tourist office (see above). They’ll provide details on dates, activities, and accommodations.

In Vino Veritas . . . with a Little Less Alcohol

Due to the cold winter months Mosel wines have the lowest alcohol content (about 9%) of any white wine in the world. According to the German Wine Institute in Mainz, white wines make up 90% of the region’s production, the highest output of any region in Germany. Sixty-five percent of the overall grapes are crisp Rieslings, with Müller-Thurgau coming in a distant second at 15%. Be sure to enjoy them young.

Exploring Cochem

The town is a typical wine village, with tastings and festivals. But the biggest attraction is Reichsburg Cochem ★ ( 02671/255;www.burg-cochem.de). Like many castles in the valley, the original 1027 castle was laid to ruin by Louis XIV’s army in 1689. Rebuilt in 1868 in the neo-Gothic style, its medieval ramparts and turrets create a dramatic backdrop for the town. To reach the castle, follow the steep footpath from the center of town; the 15-minute walk is well worth it for the rewarding views of the town and the Mosel below. Although you can visit the grounds anytime, the interior of the castle is open daily mid-March to mid-November 9am to 5pm. Guided tours (in English) are conducted at regular intervals. Admission is 5€ for adults, 4€ for students, 3€ for children 6 to 17 years old, and 15€ for a family ticket.

Where to Eat

L’Auberge du Vin ★ RHINELANDER Within the town of Cochem itself, the best food, a traditional cuisine, is served by the Beth family. Their aim is to offer you the finest of their market-fresh shopping every day. Connoisseurs flock here to enjoy soup made with some of the fattest and most delectable snails in Germany. Fresh fish and game dishes, such as venison in autumn, round out the menu. Among the fish courses, you might enjoy the filet of pikeperch with fresh asparagus, or the scallops with tomato and noodles in a lobster sauce. Other praiseworthy dishes include breast of pigeon with “smashed” celery in a red-wine sauce, or saddle of lamb with ratatouille.

In the Lohspeicher, Obergasse 1. 02671/3976. Reservations recommended. Main courses 25€–30€. MC, V. Thurs–Tues noon–2pm and 6–10pm. Closed Feb.

German Men of Ideas: Karl Marx (1818–1883)

“The history of all hitherto existing society is the history of class struggles.”

Field of Study: Economist, philosopher, socialist, revolutionary.

Revolutionary Insight: In collaboration with Friedrich Engels, built on Hegel’s dialectic framework (in which opposing forces clash to form a new paradigm) to advocate the working-class overthrow of capitalist governments and establishment of a classless society, where all people share ownership of property.

Controversy Quotient (0to 5): (3) Died in poverty & obscurity. Political & revolutionary views caught fire in the 20th century, co-opted unsuccessfully by totalitarians (Lenin, Stalin, Mao). His musings on the failures of capitalism still a rallying cry for pure socialist movements.

Little Known Fact: Marx, who hailed from Trier, was pictured on Germany’s 100 Deutschmark bill from 1964 until 1990.

—Kelly Regan

Weissmühle im Enderttal GERMAN Set within the nearby shady and secluded valley of Enderttal, this restaurant’s fine cuisine is popular with locals. You can dine within either the Müllerstube—a woodsy, antique-looking room that might remind you of an inn high in the Swiss Alps—or the brighter, sunnier, and larger Sommerrestaurant. A trademark dish is fresh trout from the small nearby lake, stuffed with herbs, baked, and kept warm at your table with a hot stone. The inn also rents 36 well-furnished bedrooms, each individually furnished in a rustic country style. The price per person for bed-and-breakfast ranges from 48€ to 58€.

Endertstrasse 1. 02671/8955. Fax 02671/8207. www.weissmuehle.de. Reservations recommended. Main courses 18€–28€. MC, V. Daily noon–2pm and 6–9pm. From Cochem’s center, drive toward the A48, following the signs for Koblenz/Trier; the inn is on the left of the road, 1.5km (1 mile) northwest of Cochem.

Where to Stay

Alte Thorschenke ★ Both a hotel and a wine restaurant, the centrally located Alte Thorschenke is one of the oldest and best-known establishments along either side of the Mosel. The romantically conceived building, with its timbers and towers, was originally built in 1332. It became a hotel in 1960, when a modern wing was added. Most rooms are reached via a cantilevered wooden staircase that has creaked for centuries (there’s also an elevator in the rear). Six rooms have four-poster beds; all units contain tub/shower combinations. There’s also a romantic Napoleon suite.

Brückenstrasse 3, 56812 Cochem. www.castle-thorschenke.com. 02671/7059. Fax 02671/4202. 35 units. 89€–130€ double; from 125€ suite. Rates include buffet breakfast. AE, DC, MC, V. Parking 6€ in garage. Amenities: Restaurant; room service. In room: TV, hair dryer, minibar.

Wine Tasting with the Baron

Guests of the Alte Thorschenke can visit the 500-year-old Schloss Landesberg, Ediger-Eller (www.mosel-weinproben.de), about 7km (4 1/2 miles) from Cochem. Here in the old cellars, you can taste some of the best wines produced along the banks of the Mosel. To arrange a visit if you’re not staying at the hotel, call 02675/277.

Lohspeicher This inn is good for an overnight stopover, although it’s better known for its restaurant L’Auberge du Vin (see above) than for its rooms. This generously proportioned 1832 building with hand-hewn beams was once a warehouse. Rooms, though generally a bit small, are comfortably furnished, and have modern bathrooms. The team of Ingo, Birgit, and Laura Beth are the warmest hosts in the area.

Obergasse 1, 56812 Cochem. www.lohspeicher.de. 02671/3976. Fax 02671/1772. 9 units. 45€–60€ per person double. Rates include buffet breakfast. MC, V. Parking 8€. Closed Feb. Amenities: Restaurant. In room: TV, hair dryer.

A Side Trip to Burg Eltz

Burg Eltz ★★ ( 02672/950500;www.burg-eltz.de), a stately castle tucked up the Elzbach valley north of the river, is nearest to Moselkern and makes for a nice stopover between Cochem and Koblenz. It lies 20km (12 miles) northeast of Cochem and 29km (18 miles) southwest of Koblenz with access via the A48 and A61 autobahns and Route 416 on the left bank. A parking lot, Antoniuskapelle, less than 800m (1⁄2 mile) from the castle, can be reached via Münstermaifeld. A bus runs to the castle every 5 minutes and costs 1.50€. Outdoor enthusiasts can take a 35-minute hike on a marked path through the valley from Moselkern.

Burg Eltz can stake the claim to be the most beautiful authentic castle in Germany, surpassing any 19th century mimics like Neuschwanstein in Bavaria. The original structure, built from the 12th century to the 17th century, has been preserved in all its glory thanks in part to one family member who served in the French army to keep the “Sun King” Louis XIV from laying it to ruin. The castle houses different families in four separate residences, with original medieval furnishings that include some fine old paintings and tapestries. A treasury contains works by goldsmiths and silversmiths, armor, weapons, and other objects acquired by the family over the centuries. The castle is open daily April to November 1 9:30am to 5:30pm. Admission is 8€ for adults, 5.50€ for children, and 24€ for a family ticket. There are two small self-service restaurants in the castle.

Beilstein

11km (7 miles) E of Cochem, 111km (69 miles) W of Mainz

This unspoiled medieval wine town on the east bank of the Mosel has a memorable marketplace dwarfed by the adjacent hillside. Above the town stand the former cloister church with a 13th century Black Madonna of Spanish origin, and the ruins of the 12th-century Metternich Castle, also destroyed by Louis XIV’s army.

Essentials

Getting There

By Train The nearest rail station is at Cochem (see above).

By Bus Service from Cochem and other points along the Mosel is available from RMV Rhein Mosel Verkehrsgesellschaft ( 01805/7684636;www.rmv.de) and from Moselbahn GmbH ( 06531/96800;www.moselbahn.de).

By Car Access by car is via the A48 Autobahn on the Koblenz-Trier run; exit at Kaisersesch.

Visitor Information

The nearest information office is at Cochem (see above).

Where to Eat & Stay

Haus Burgfrieden This hotel’s simple but comfortable rooms are outfitted in an uncluttered modern style. They aren’t very spacious, but the maintenance is good. All units contain neatly kept bathrooms. On the premises is a dining room featuring international cuisine. Main courses cost 9.50€ to 23€.

Im Muhlental 17, 56814 Beilstein. www.hotel-burgfrieden.de. 02673/93639. Fax 02673/936388. 39 units. 78€–88€ double. Rates include buffet breakfast. No credit cards. Free parking. Closed Nov–Mar. 5-min. walk west of the town center. Amenities: Restaurant. In room: TV.

Hotel Haus Lipmann ★ You can sample the wines that made Beilstein famous at this oft-photographed inn in the town center. The six guest rooms are located in the main half-timbered house dating from 1714. They’re all small, cozy, and very inviting, with tiny bathrooms.

For six generations, the same family has tended the vast riverside vineyards that have won them acclaim. Try their Ellenzer Goldbäumchen or their Beilsteiner Schlossberg. In summer, the most popular place at the inn for drinking and dining is the vine-covered terrace with a statue of Bacchus, overlooking the Mosel. You can also try the antiques-filled tavern or the wood-paneled Rittersaal, with its collection of old firearms and pewter. In the cooler months, fires burn in the tall walk-in fireplace and the tiny open hearth. German food is served.

Marktplatz 3, 56814 Beilstein. www.hotel-haus-lipmann.com. 02673/1573. Fax 02673/1521. 5 units. 100€–120€ double. Rates include buffet breakfast. No credit cards. Free parking. Closed Nov–Mar. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; room service. In room: TV.

Zell an der Mosel

69km (43 miles) NE of Trier, 105km (65 miles) W of Mainz, 35km (22 miles) S of Cochem

This old town, along the east bank of the Mosel, is best known for its excellent wine, Schwarze Katze (“Black Cat”). The grape is king here, as you’ll quickly realize if you visit during the annual autumn wine festival. Nearby, on the left bank of the Mosel, 8km (5 miles) from Zell, stands the little wine village of Alf. The surroundings are idyllic, especially if you climb up to the Marienburg, which has a fine view over the Mosel and the vineyards of Zell.

Essentials

Getting There

By Train The nearest rail station is at Bullay, some 5km (3 miles) away. For information, call 01805/996633 (www.bahn.de).

By Bus Regional bus service is provided by RMV Rhein Mosel Verkehrsgesellschaft GmbH ( 01805/7684636;www.rmv.de) and Moselbahn GmbH ( 06531/96800;www.moselbahn.de).

By Car Access by car is via the A1 Autobahn north and south, and Rte. 49 from the west.

Visitor Information

Go to Tourist-Information, in the Rathaus, Marktstrasse 2 ( 06542/96220), Monday to Friday 9am to 5pm and Saturday 10am to 1pm.

Where to Eat & Stay

Haus Notenau Solid, comfortable, and well maintained, this three-story building was erected in 1960 on the forested outskirts of town, one mile south along the river. Your hosts, members of the Saxler family, will offer you a cheerful, no-nonsense stay in rooms that are outfitted with contemporary-looking furniture and pale pastel-color schemes, each quiet, calm, and uncontroversial. Come here for rest, relaxation, and contemplation. If Haus Notenau is full, additional accommodations are available at its comparably priced sibling, Haus Brandenburg, Brandenburger Strasse 1 ( 06542/5010). The Notenau does not have its own restaurant, but the staff will direct you to eateries nearby.

Notenau 7–8, 56856 Zell an der Mosel. www.haus-notenau.de. 06542/5010. Fax 06542/5280. 20 units. 65€ double. Rates include buffet breakfast. AE, MC, V. Free parking. Bus: From Zell’s center, take bus 333, direction Bernkastel. In room: No phone.

Zur Post This hotel sits directly on the river. Its small rooms are carpeted, with French doors opening onto balconies. The owner takes pride in looking after her guests and ensuring their comfort. The restaurant is open for lunch and dinner Tuesday to Sunday, serving German cuisine and an extensive selection of Mosel wines. Enjoy a glass in the warmly decorated Weinstube or on the inviting sun terrace as you watch the river traffic go by.

Schlossstrasse 19–25, 56856 Zell an der Mosel. 06542/4217. Fax 06542/41693. www.hotel-zur-post-zell.de. 14 units. 71€–75€ double. Rates include buffet breakfast. AE, DC, MC, V. Free parking. Closed Feb to mid-Mar. Amenities: Restaurant. In room: TV, no phone.

Traben-Trarbach

60km (37 miles) NE of Trier, 103km (64 miles) W of Mainz, 18km (11 miles) SW of Zell

Thanks to their central location on the Mosel, halfway between Koblenz and Trier, the twin towns of Traben and Trarbach have become the wine capitals of the Mosel Valley. Their gardenlike promenades offer splendid views of the surroundings and occasional speedboat and water-skiing competitions. The July wine festival attracts visitors from all over Europe to the old wine cellars and taverns of the towns.

Essentials

Getting There

By Train Rail passengers for Traben-Trarbach can arrive either at Trier or Bullay, then go the rest of the way by bus. Call 01805/996633 (www.bahn.de) for schedules and times.

By Bus Regional bus service among the Mosel River towns is provided by RMV Rhein Mosel Verkehrsgesellschaft ( 01805/7684636;www.rmv.de) and by Moselbahn GmbH ( 06531/96800;www.moselbahn.de).

By Car Access is via the A48 Autobahn (Trier-Koblenz); exit at Wittlich.

Visitor Information

For tourist information, contact the Kurverwaltung und Verkehrsamt, Bahnhof 5, Traben ( 06541/83980;www.traben-trarbach.de), open Monday to Friday 10am to 4pm; from May to October, additional hours are Saturday 11am to 3pm.

Exploring Traben-Trarbach

Above Trarbach, on the east bank of the river, are the now-diminished remains of the 14th-century Grevenburg Castle, the scene of hard-fought battles to gain control of its strategic position. On the opposite bank, above Traben, are the ruins of Mont Royal, a 1687 fortress built by the invading Louis XIV, and destroyed by him 11 years later. You can wander about these testimonials to faded grandeur at any time, without charge. The towns also possess excellent examples of Jugendstil architecture, the German version of Art Nouveau, stemming from the time when architect Bruno Möhring resided here. The fancy bridge gate in Trarbach and Hotel Bellevue are just a few of his works.

Where to Eat & Stay

Hotel Moseltor ★ You’ll find this gay-friendly hotel on the outskirts of town at Im Otsteil Trarbach. Inside this masterpiece of 19th-century fieldstone masonry, a charming combination of new construction and antique elements creates a warm mixture of comfort and convenience. The inviting rooms have neatly kept bathrooms.

Chef George Bauer’s reputation for light cuisine has spread so widely that German urbanites come here for gastronomic weekends (meals cost 25€–38€). The hotel is open year-round, but the restaurant is closed in February and on Monday and Tuesday year-round.

Moselstrasse 1, 56841 Traben-Trarbach. www.moseltor.de. 06541/6551. Fax 06541/4922. 11 units. 100€–140€ double. Rates include continental breakfast. AE, DC, MC, V. Parking 10€ in garage. Amenities: Restaurant; room service. In room: TV, hair dryer, Wi-Fi (free).

Romantik Art Nouveau Hotel Bellevue ★★ This Art Nouveau residence on the riverbank is one of the finest hotels along the Mosel. It was designed in 1903 by the noted architect Bruno Möhring and features elaborate timberwork, a domed tower, a high-pitched roof, gables, and dormers. Many of the cozy rooms are furnished with antiques. Forty-two rooms make up the hotel itself, while 26 more offer a fine view from a building along the riverfront promenade The Clauss-Feist Restaurant is a romantic spot for both breakfast and dinner, with stained-glass windows and an old-German ambiance. There’s a cozy fireplace as well as an ivy-covered terrace for dining outside.

An der Mosel 11, 56841 Traben-Trarbach. www.bellevue-hotel.de. 06541/7030. Fax 06541/703400. 70 units. 135€–190€ double; 160€–380€ suite. Rates include buffet breakfast. AE, DC, MC, V. Free outdoor parking; 10€ in garage. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; bikes; exercise room; indoor heated pool; room service; spa. In room: TV, hair dryer, minibar, Wi-Fi (free).

Traveling the Roman Way

A quick look at the map will show that an ideal way of traveling between Traben-Trarbach and its sister Bernkastel-Kues just may be by your own two feet. The two towns lie within a 2- to 3-hour walk over the hill along a marked path that offers fine views of the area. A glass of Riesling in either town at the end of your hike makes for a great reward.

Bernkastel-Kues ★

48km (30 miles) NE of Trier, 113km (70 miles) W of Mainz

In a valley full of wine towns, the right-bank Bernkastel stands out as the most colorful.

Essentials

Getting There

By Train The nearest rail station is the Wittlich Hauptbahnhof, 20km (12 miles) west, with a bus or taxi connection to Bernkastel-Kues. For information, call 01805/996633 (www.bahn.de).

By Bus Regional bus service along the Mosel River is provided by RMV Rhein Mosel Verkehrsgesellschaft ( 01805/7684636;www.rmv.de) and Moselbahn GmbH ( 06531/96800;www.moselbahn.de).

By Car Access by car is via the A48 Autobahn on the Koblenz-Trier run; exit at Wittlich.

Visitor Information

Contact Tourist-Information, Gestade 6, in Bernkastel ( 06531/4023), open May to October Monday to Friday 8:30am to 12:30pm and 1:30 to 5pm, Saturday 10am to 5pm, and Sunday 10am to 1pm; from November to April, hours are Monday to Thursday 8:30am to 12:30pm and 1 to 5pm, and Friday 8:30am to 3:30pm.

Exploring Bernkastel-Kues

Half-timbered buildings dating from as early as 1608 surround the handsome Marktplatz and the St. Michael’s Fountain, which flows with wine during the annual September wine festival. Its conjoined town across the river, Kues, features the late-Gothic Cusanusstift, resting place of 15th-century cardinal and influential scholar Nicolas of Cusa.

For a Grand Panorama

On a rocky promontory, 3km (2 miles) to the southeast of the town, stands Burg Landshut. Once the domain of the archbishops of Trier, the property dates from the 11th century but fell into ruins at the hands of Louis XIV. You don’t come here for these ruins but for one of the grandest panoramas ★★ in the entire Rhineland and Mosel areas. Even the steepest slopes on the way to this belvedere are covered with vines.

Where to Eat

Waldhotel Sonnora ★★★ CONTINENTAL One of the most spectacular restaurants in Germany is 18km (11 miles) west of Bernkastel-Kues. With only 12 tables, it often books 3 months in advance on weekends and 2 weeks in advance on weeknights. Hint: Consider lunch instead of dinner, when demand for tables is less intense. If you’re lucky enough to snare a reservation for dinner, you may prefer to overnight in one of the hotel’s 20 bedrooms. Doubles cost from 115€ to 280€, including breakfast.

Menu items are concocted from hyper-upscale ingredients under the supervision of master chef Helmut Thieltges. Main courses, depending on the season, might feature turbot strips of sole with grilled lobster with chicory in a lemon-butter sauce or filet of Bresse pigeon with a carrot tart. In late autumn and winter, the venison and other game dishes are delightful. The restaurant has one of the most comprehensive wine lists in the area.

Auf dem Eichelfeld. 06578/406.www.hotel-sonnora.de. Reservations essential. Main courses 45€–52€; fixed-price menus 128€–158€. AE, MC, V. Wed–Sun noon–2pm and 7–9pm. Closed late Dec to late Jan and July 15–29.

Where to Stay

The Taste of the grape & an Overnight Too

Since 1156, the Prüm family has operated a winery at this spot. Today S. A. Prüm Winery, Uferallee 25–26, 54470 Bernkastel-Wehlen ( 06531/3110; fax 06531/8555; www.sapruem.com), allows visitors onto the estate for a wine tasting, costing from 14€. Reservations are advised. For centuries, the winery has been known for its Rieslings but now offers Weissburgunder/Pinot Blanc, which is a delight. Visits are possible Monday to Friday 10am to noon and 2 to 4pm, and Saturday 10am to 4pm. There is a beautifully decorated guesthouse of eight spacious bedrooms, furnished in part with antique pieces. A patio garden opens onto the Mosel. Doubles rent for 69€ to 89€ a night and are equipped with neatly tiled bathrooms with showers. Each unit comes with a TV and Internet, and rates include buffet breakfast. The winery and guesthouse are closed December to mid-February. American Express, MasterCard, and Visa are accepted.

Doctor Weinstuben This intricately half-timbered building in the town center dates from the late 17th century. Today it’s the most visually arresting hotel in Bernkastel. Transformed into a tavern in 1830, it still has many of its original woodcarvings. Its public areas are traditional, and the cozy (but often too-small) rooms are furnished in a simple, modern style. Look for the 150-year-old plant called Blau Regen (Blue Rain) in the garden.

Hebegasse 5, 54470 Bernkastel-Kues. www.doctor-weinstuben.de. 06531/96650. Fax 06531/6296. 29 units. 80€–120€ double; 100€–139€ suite. Rates include buffet breakfast. AE, DC, MC, V. Parking 10€. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; bikes; Wi-Fi (free). In room: TV, hair dryer, minibar.

Hotel Moselpark ★★ This government-rated four-star hotel is the best in the area and also one of the largest—many of its rivals are mere inns with only a few bedrooms. This three-story hotel also boasts the widest range of leisure facilities and activities in the area, including a fitness studio, dance bar, and large swimming pool. Bedrooms are midsize to spacious and are exceedingly comfortable and well maintained. You could spend a week here, treating the place like a resort. Many distractions are right on the grounds, everything from a Bierstube to a massage parlor.

Im Kurpark, 54470 Bernkastel-Kues. www.moselpark.de. 06531/5080. Fax 06531/508612. 143 units. 135€–252€ double. Rates include buffet breakfast. AE, DC, MC, V. Free parking. Amenities: 2 restaurants; babysitting; bikes; exercise room; indoor heated pool; room service; sauna; 4 indoor and 2 outdoor tennis courts (lit). In room: TV, hair dryer, minibar, Wi-Fi (in some; free).

Zur Post ★ Even though relatively modest, this is the winegrowing town’s finest inn. This centrally located hotel was once a stopover for horseback riders on the local postal routes. The well-maintained but small rooms have both traditional and modern furnishings. Public areas include an elegantly crafted stairwell flanked by half-timbered walls and a paneled, beamed dining room that feels like the interior of a ship. Hearty dishes include a selection of grilled cuts of Angus steak with potatoes as you like them, and pork medallions with creamed mushrooms and Spätzle. Meals cost 13€ to 28€

Gestade 17, 54470 Bernkastel-Kues. www.hotel-zur-post-bernkastel.de. 06531/96700. Fax 06531/967050. 42 units. 90€–110€ double; 150€ junior suite. Rates include buffet breakfast. DC, MC, V. Free parking. Closed Jan. Amenities: Restaurant; sauna. In room: TV, minibar.

Trier ★★

124km (77 miles) SW of Koblenz, 143km (89 miles) SW of Bonn, 193km (120 miles) SW of Frankfurt

The city known to the Romans as Augusta Treverorum possesses some of the best-preserved remnants from the era north of the Alps. Founded under Augustus in 16 B.C., its former grandeur earned it the title Roma Secunda—the second Rome. For nearly five centuries, well into the Christian era, Trier remained one of Europe’s power centers.

But this city, Germany’s oldest, actually dates back much farther. In 2000 B.C., according to legend, the Assyrians established a colony here, and archaeological findings indicate a pre-Roman Celtic civilization. The buildings and monuments still standing today, however, date from Roman and later periods.

Trier lies only 10km (6 miles) from Luxembourg on the western frontier of Germany, where the Ruwer and Saar rivers meet the Mosel. The city is rich not only in art and tradition but also in wine—it’s one of Germany’s largest exporters.

Essentials

Getting There

By Train Trier Hauptbahnhof is on the Wasserbillig-Trier-Koblenz “Moselbahn” line and also the Trier-Saarbrücken line. Trier has frequent regional connections. There are hourly express trains each day to Koblenz (trip time: 1 hr., 25 min.), 17 direct trains to Cologne (trip time: 2 hr., 30 min.), and over 30 trains to Saarbrücken (trip time: 1 hr., 20 min.). For information, call 01805/996633 (www.bahn.de).

By Bus Buses between Trier and Bullay run along the Mosel River, leaving from the main station in Trier at Bussteig 3. Service is provided by RMV Rhein Mosel Verkehrsgesellschaft ( 01805/7684636;www.rmv.de) and Moselbahn GmbH ( 06531/96800;www.moselbahn.de).

By Boat Boat rides on the Mosel River operate between Trier and Cochem (see “Cochem,” earlier in this chapter). Contact Mosel Personen Schiffahrt Gebrüder Kolb, Briedern/Mosel ( 02673/1515;www.mosel-personenschifffahrt.de).

By Car Access by car to Trier is via the A1 Autobahn north and south, the A48 east, and Rte. 51 from the north.

Visitor Information

Contact Tourist-Information, An der Porta Nigra ( 0651/978080; fax 0651/9780876; www.trier.de), open daily; hours vary greatly by season, so call ahead or visit the website for exact hours (closed Dec 25–26 and Jan 1).

Getting Around

Most of Trier’s attractions are within walking distance of each other, and few visitors need to take the bus. Tickets (purchased on the bus) cost 1.85€ within zone 1 (the city). Outside normal operating times (Mon–Fri 6:30am–6:45pm), bus numbers 81 through 87 run special routes until 2am, as well as on Saturday and Sunday. For information, call 1805/131619, or visit www.vrt-info.de.

Boat Tours

Trier owes much of its majesty to the river that nurtured its medieval commerce. You can take a day cruise for a waterside view of its historic banks. Easter to October, boats depart Tuesday to Sunday at 9am from the Zurlauben (city docks) for a 4-hour trip along the river to Bernkastel (see “Bernkastel-Kues,” earlier in this chapter), passing vineyards, wine hamlets, historic churches, and semi-ruined fortresses. Participants spend 2 hours exploring Bernkastel before returning on the same boat to Trier, arriving back at 7:30pm. The cost is 26€ per person.

If you don’t want to spend so much time on the river, you can take a shorter, hour-long excursion to the nearby historic hamlet of Pfalzel. Boats depart from Trier’s docks Easter to October daily at 10 and 11:15am, 12:30, 1:45, 3, and 4:15pm. Round-trip is 8€. You can prolong your excursion with a walk along the riverbanks in Pfalzel or return on the next boat almost immediately after your arrival.

For information on either of these excursions, contact the tourist office (see “Visitor Information,” above) or the boat operator Gebrüder Kolb ( 0651/26666;www.kolb-mosel.de).

Exploring Trier

Every day April to October, the tourist office (see above) conducts a 2-hour walking tour of the town in German, starting at 10:30am and 2:30pm. Tours in English are conducted only on Saturday at 1:30pm from May to October. The cost is 7.50€ per adult, 5€ for children 6 to 14.

Visiting the Roman Ruins

When the last Roman prefect departed from Trier in about A.D. 400, he left behind a vast collection of monuments from centuries of Roman domination. Built around A.D. 180, Porta Nigra (Black Gate) ★★ ( 0651/75424) is the best-preserved Roman structure in Germany, the only survivor of the great wall that once surrounded Trier. The huge sandstone blocks, assembled without mortar, were held together with iron clamps—the marks can still be seen. From outside the gate, the structure appeared to be simply two arched entrances between rounded towers leading directly into the town, but intruders soon discovered that the arches opened into an inner courtyard where they were at the mercy of the town’s defenders. During the Middle Ages, the Greek hermit Simeon, later canonized, chose the east tower as his retreat. After his death, the archbishop turned the gate into a huge double church, contributing to its preservation. When Napoleon came this way, however, he ordered all the architectural changes to be removed and the original Roman core restored. Porta Nigra is open daily April to September 9am to 6pm, October and March 9am to 5pm, and November to February 9am to 4pm. Admission is 3€ for adults and 1.50€ for children. A family pass is 6€.

The Imperial Palace district, stretching along the site of the former medieval wall of the city, begins with the Roman building known today as the Basilica, Basilikaplatz ( 0651/72468). Although much of the structure has been demolished, the huge hall that remains—believed to be the throne room—gives some idea of the grandeur of the original palace. The two tiers of windows are arranged within high-rising arches in which fragments of the original wall paintings can be seen. Five large heating chambers outside the walls sent warm air through the hollow floor, in the unique method of Roman central heating. Today the Basilica serves as the main Protestant church in the city. It’s open April to October Monday to Saturday 10am to 6pm and Sunday noon to 6pm; November to March hours are Tuesday to Saturday 11am to noon and 3 to 4pm, and Sunday noon to 1pm. Admission is free.

Next to the Basilica stands the 17th-century Kurfürstliches Palais (Electoral Palace; 0651/9494202), begun in the German Renaissance style as a residence for the archbishop-electors, the town’s governors. Johannes Seiz completed its fancy rococo facade and interior, which cannot be visited due to its use as city offices. The adjoining Palastgarten (Palace Gardens) ★, full of ponds, flowers, and rococo statues, are always open and free.

The Imperial Baths (Kaiserthermen) ★★ ( 0651/44262), at the south end of Palastgarten, were erected in the early 4th century by Constantine I. Of the huge complex, only the ruins of the hot baths remain. These were among the largest in the Roman Empire, and although never completed, they were used in connection with the Imperial Palace. They’re open daily April to September 9am to 6pm, October and March 9am to 5pm, and November to February 9am to 4pm. Admission is 3€ for adults and 1.50€ for children.

The Amphitheater, Amphitheaterplatz ( 0651/73010), is the oldest Roman construction in Trier, dating from A.D. 100. The stone seats, arranged in three circles separated by broad promenades, held at least 20,000 people. The ruins are open daily April to September 9am to 6pm, October and March 9am to 5pm, and November to February 9am to 4pm. Admission is 3€ adults, 1.50€ children. A family pass is 6€.

A collective ticket, which grants admission to the amphitheater, the two sets of Roman baths, and the Porta Nigra, costs 8€ for adults and 5.60€ for students and 4€ ages 17 and under. It is available from the tourist office.

Trailing Bacchus into the Underground

Since medieval times, Trier has served as a warehouse and distribution center for thousands of liters of wine fermented in its underground cellars. At least 40 of these cellars lie beneath the streets of the city and surrounding suburbs and hamlets. The oldest and most venerable of these is owned by Vereinigte Hospitien, Krahnen Ufer Strasse 19 ( 0651/9451210;www.vereinigtehospitien.de), an organization that’s also involved in running a network of local hospitals and hospices. Tours include tastes of some of the vintages and cost 11€ per person. Be warned that if it’s inconvenient for the staff to receive you, they’ll be quick to tell you. The local tourist office will usually help you arrange a tour of either of these cellars or of others belonging to local competitors.

Der Trierer Dom (Trier Cathedral) ★ CHURCH From the outside, this cathedral, with its rough-hewn stonework, looks more like a fortress than a church. It’s the third church to stand on the site of the former 4th-century palace of the Empress Helena, mother of Constantine. It was begun in 1035 in Romanesque style, but later Gothic and baroque additions have only helped give the ecclesiastical architecture a timeless unity. The interior combines baroque decoration with Gothic vaulting and archways. On the south aisle is a magnificent tympanum depicting Christ between the Virgin and St. Peter. Die Schatzkammer (Treasury Museum) contains many important works of art, including the 10th-century St. Andrew’s Altar, an unusual portable altar made of wood and covered with gold and ivory.

Domfreihof (north of the Palace Gardens and Basilica). 0651/9790790. Cathedral free; treasury 1.50€ adults, .50€ children 15 and under. Cathedral Apr–Oct daily 6:30am–6pm; Nov–Mar daily 6:30am–5:30pm. Treasury Apr–Oct Mon–Sat 10am–5pm, Sun 12:30–5pm; Nov–Mar Tues–Sat 11am–4pm, Sun–Mon 12:30–4pm.

Karl-Marx-Haus HISTORIC HOUSE This old burgher’s house is where Karl Marx (1818–83) was born and where he lived until 1835, when he left to attend university. The museum has exhibits on Marx’s personal history, volumes of poetry, original letters, and photographs with personal dedications. There’s also a collection of rare first editions and international editions of his works, as well as exhibits on the development of socialism in the 19th century. In the vicinity of the museum is a study center, Studienzentrum Karl-Marx-Haus, Johannestrasse 28 (same phone), for research on Marx and Engels.

Brückenstrasse 10. 0651/970680.www.fes.de. Admission 3€ adults, 2€ children. Apr–Oct daily 10am–6pm; Nov–Mar Mon 2–5pm, Tues–Sun 11am–5pm. Bus: 1, 2, 3, or 4.

Liebfrauenkirche ★ CHURCH This parish church, separated from the cathedral by a narrow passageway, is more pleasing aesthetically than its older neighbor. Begun in 1235, it was among the first German examples of Gothic architecture. The ground plan is in the shape of a Greek cross, creating a circular effect with all points equidistant from the central high altar. The structure is supported by 12 circular columns, rather than the typical open buttresses. The interior is bathed in sunlight, which streams through the high transoms. Although its restoration after the war changed some of the effect of the central construction, it’s still unique among German churches.

Some of the church’s more important works of art are now in the Bischöfliches Museum, Windstrasse 8 ( 0651/7105255;www.bistum-trier.de). The sepulcher of Bishop Karl von Metternich, who represented the archbishopric during the Thirty Years’ War, is among the most interesting items. Admission is 3.50€ for adults and 2€ for children.

Liebfrauenstrasse 2. 0651/9790790. Free admission. Apr–Oct daily 7:30am–6pm; Nov–Mar daily 7:30am–5:30pm. Bischöfliches Museum: Apr–Oct Mon–Sat 9am–5pm, Sun 1–5pm; Nov–Mar Tues–Sat 9am–5pm, Sun 1–5pm.

Rheinisches Landesmuseum ★★ MUSEUM This is one of the outstanding museums of Roman antiquities north of the Alps. Numerous reliefs from funerary monuments show daily life in Roman times. The museum’s most popular exhibit is the Mosel Ship, a sculpture of a wine-bearing vessel crowning a big burial monument of the 3rd century A.D. Also on display are many mosaics and frescoes, ceramics, glassware, a 2,700-year-old Egyptian casket complete with mummy, an outstanding numismatic collection, and prehistoric and medieval art and sculpture.

Weimarer Allee 1 (btw. the Imperial Baths and the Basilica, at the edge of the Palace Gardens). 0651/97740.www.landesmuseum-trier.de. Admission 6€ adults, 3€ children. Tues–Sun 10am–5pm. Bus: 2, 6, 16, 26, or 30.

Where to Eat

Pfeffermühle ★★ FRENCH This is clearly the best dining in Trier. The restaurant occupies two pale-pink-and-white dining rooms, elegant and restrained, of a historic 18th-century house whose windows overlook the Mosel. While Angelika Walde maintains a bright, well-decorated dining room her husband Siegberg does his magic in the kitchen using the freshest ingredients possible. From a freshly made goose-liver terrine appetizer to the petits fours for dessert, the nouvelle French cuisine here is terrific. Try the assorted fresh fish with homemade noodles as your main course. Another specialty is breast of guinea fowl in a tarragon sauce with homemade pasta. The list of Mosel wines is extensive. In summer, guests can enjoy their meals on a terrace.

Zurlaubener Ufer 76, Zurlauben. 0651/26133.www.pfeffermuehle-trier.de. Reservations required. Main courses 22€–31€. MC, V. Tues–Sat noon–2pm; Mon–Sat 6:30–9:30pm. Bus: 5.

Schlemmereule ★ GERMAN/CONTINENTAL At a location opposite the Dom, culinary whiz Peter Schmalen has brought some excitement to bored taste buds in the city. First, the setting is romantic—in the Palais Walderdorff complex that dates from the 1800s. In summer, try for a table in the courtyard. One specialty is plain old spaghetti, given a sublime twist with fresh truffles. A delectable pikeperch steams under a golden-brown potato crust. Finish off with the town’s best crème brûlée. Schmalen proudly boasts one of the town’s finest wine lists, with some marvelous Mosel vintages.

Palais Walderdorff, Domfreihof 1B. 0651/73616.www.schlemmereule.de. Reservations required. Main courses 20€–28€. AE, DC, MC, V. Mon–Sat noon–2:30pm and 6–11pm. Closed 1 week in Feb.

Weinstube Kesselstatt ★ GERMAN This Weinstube lies in the baroque landmark, Palais Kesselstatt, which was the residence of the counts of Kesselstatt. Its wine cellar prides itself on stocking only Rieslings produced in nearby vineyards—an excellent selection. Anyone interested in sampling the region’s legendary wines should head down to the cellar here. You get not only wine but platters of traditional German food. In summer the shady terrace fills up quickly. Inside you dine at old wooden tables resting under exposed beams. Menu items are made with fresh ingredients and change with the seasons. Try such dishes as slices of duck breast in an herb vinaigrette or else filet of turbot with vegetables, even pork medallions in a pepper sauce.

Liebfrauenstrasse 10. 0651/41178.www.weinstube-kesselstatt.de. Reservations recommended. Main courses 12€–18€. MC, V. Daily 10am–midnight. Bus: 1.

Zum Domstein ★ RHINELAND Charming Zum Domstein overlooks the flower stands and the fountain in Trier’s central plaza. Try one of the wine tastings starting at 9€, which will get you three glasses of wine from the Mosel, the Ruwer, or the Saar. Otherwise, taste one of a dozen local and international wines by the glass, or select one of the hundreds of bottles stored in the cellars.

The food here is as tempting as the wine; a typically savory offering is a platter of filet of trout in a Riesling sauce or knuckle of lamb with vegetables. All the dishes are redolent of old-fashioned flavors; it is said that some were even served by the Romans, who preferred them with rich sauces. In winter, you’ll want to find a spot near the huge tiled stove.

This restaurant is constructed above one of the oldest cellars in town, the Römischer Weinkeller (Roman wine cellar), originally built around A.D. 326. Original Roman artifacts, many connected with food and cooking, decorate the room. Dishes here are prepared according to recipes attributed to Marcus Gavius Apicius, said to have been the foremost chef at the court of Emperor Tiberius.

Hauptmarkt 5. 0651/74490.www.domstein.de. Reservations recommended. Main courses lunch 8€–15€, dinner 13€–20€; fixed-price menus in the Roman wine cellar 16€–40€. MC, V. Daily 8:30am–10pm. Bus: 1, 2, or 12.

Nightlife & Entertainment

The cathedral hosts a series of free organ recitals in May, June, August, and September. Contact the tourist office (see “Visitor Information,” earlier in this section) for schedules.

TUFA ( 0651/7182412;www.tufa-trier.de) presents theater, established touring bands, and the occasional dance party. Across from the cathedral stands Walderdorffs, Domfreihof ( 0651/9944412;www.walderdorffs.de), a cafe by day, but an action-packed bar and dance club at night. The club runs late (10pm–4am) and only on Thursday to Saturday, with the dancing not launched until 12:30am. The cafe and bar are open Sunday to Thursday from 9:30am to 1am, Friday and Saturday until 2am. A cover is sometimes imposed at the dance club, but the actual fee varies depending on the evening. Sometimes live bands are brought in. A club with a beer garden, Exhaus, Zurmaiener Strasse 114 ( 0651/25191;www.exhaus.de), has both dancing and bands, usually Wednesday to Saturday. Days vary, but the hours are 8pm to 2am. Call to see what’s scheduled. Cover is 8€ to 15€.

The aptly named Irish Pub, Jakobstrasse 10 ( 0651/49539;www.irishpub-trier.de), serves toasted sandwiches, along with Guinness and Harp. Many evenings you’ll find an Irish, English, or German band entertaining a rowdy drinking crowd.

The area’s nightlife hot spot is Riverside, a complex of bars and restaurants, about 1.5km (1 mile) north of the town center.

Where to Stay

Expensive

Mercure Porta Nigra ★ The six-story Mercure Porta Nigra combines style, comfort, and location, making it one of the best choices in Trier. Most rooms have sitting areas and ornately tiled bathrooms. The hotel doesn’t escape its chain format, but nonetheless is exceedingly comfortable.

Porta-Nigra-Platz 1, 54292 Trier. www.accorhotels.com. 0651/27010. Fax 0651/2701170. 106 units. 105€–170€ double; 246€ suite. AE, DC, MC, V. Parking 12€. Bus: 2, 3, 12, 13, 14. Across from the Roman ruins. Amenities: 2 restaurants; bar; babysitting; room service; sauna. In room: A/C, TV, hair dryer, minibar, Wi-Fi (20€ per 24 hr.).

Park Plaza ★★ Although the Villa Hügel has a more traditional and tranquil location, the Park Plaza has shot to the top of the line as the finest hotel at which to stay in Trier, based on its amenities and modern comforts. Lying just a 3-minute walk from the Dom, it is stylish, tastefully furnished, and supremely comfortable. Extras include everything from the city’s best health club (styled in the Roman tradition) to a winter garden lounge. Bedrooms are superior in styling and design, and there are hypoallergenic accommodations as well as family rooms with connecting doors. Maids even place a bathrobe and slippers in the state-of-the-art bathrooms. Caesar’s Restaurant specializes in both regional and international cuisine.

Nikolaus-Koch-Platz 1, 54290 Trier. www.parkplaza-trier.de. 0651/99930. Fax 0651/9993555. 150 units. 112€–162€ double; 192€–332€ junior suite. AE, DC, MC, V. Parking 12€. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; health club and spa; room service. In room: A/C, TV, hair dryer, minibar, Wi-Fi (free).

pentahotel Trier ★ This hotel is located in the heart of the sightseeing zone, near the old Roman monuments. It may be too sleek and impersonal for some, but it’s serviceable in every way. Rooms are spacious, with streamlined modern furnishings and bathrooms.

Kaiserstrasse 29, 54290 Trier. www.pentahotels.com. 0651/94950. Fax 0651/9495666. 127 units. 68€–132€ double; 118€–230€ suite. AE, DC, MC, V. Parking 6€ outdoors; 8.50€ in garage. Bus: 1, 3, 5, 6, 7, 8, 16, or 40. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; babysitting; room service. In room: A/C (in some), TV, hair dryer, minibar, Wi-Fi (5.50€ per day).

Villa Hügel ★★ This lovely Art Nouveau villa, built in 1914, offers more style and ambience than some of the other hotels, such as the pentahotel Trier. The windows overlook either a private garden with old trees or the city. Rooms are spacious and high ceilinged, and all contain modern bathrooms. Four double rooms are so large that they’re almost suites, making them favorites with families.

Bernhardstrasse 14, 54295 Trier. www.hotel-villa-huegel.de. 0651/937100. Fax 0651/37958. 36 units. 128€–188€ double. Rates include buffet breakfast. AE, DC, MC, V. Free outdoor parking; 10€ in garage. Bus: 2 or 82. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; Jacuzzi; indoor heated pool; room service; sauna; Wi-Fi (free; in lobby). In room: TV, hair dryer, minibar.

Moderate

Hotel Kessler The sunny Kessler is managed by the English-proficient Jörg Müller, who does everything he can to make your stay pleasant. Rooms are small but attractively maintained and furnished in a clean, modern style, all with neatly kept bathrooms. The generous breakfast will get you on your way.

Brückenstrasse 23, 54290 Trier. www.hotel-kessler-trier.de. 0651/978170. Fax 0651/9781797. 18 units. 72€–135€ double. Rates include buffet breakfast. No credit cards. Parking 5€ outside; 9€ in garage. Bus: 1, 3, 5, 6, 7, 8, 16, or 40. Next to the Karl-Marx-Haus. In room: TV, hair dryer, minibar, Wi-Fi (free).

Hotel Petrisberg Petrisberg boasts a pleasant location where a forest, a vineyard, and a private park meet. The Roman amphitheater is also just a short walk down the road. All units contain neat furnishings and well-maintained bathrooms, and offer a view of the lush greenery outside, or the city. The ground-floor Weinstube is the gathering place for many locals, particularly on weekends.

Sickingenstrasse 11–13, 54296 Trier. www.hotel-petrisberg.de. 0651/4640. Fax 0651/46450. 35 units. 97€–105€ double; 150€–185€ suite. Rates include buffet breakfast. MC, V. Free outdoor parking; 5€ in garage. Bus: 6, 7, or 16. A 10-min. walk from the Altstadt. In room: TV, Wi-Fi (free).

Römischer Kaiser ★ In a landmark building that has been beautifully restored, this hotel is a style setter in town. Modern technology and comfort blend in well with the 19th-century beauty of this hotel right at the Porta Nigra. Bedrooms are well designed and exceedingly comfortable, with a certain minimalism. The substantial breakfast buffet is one of the finest in the city. You may also want to dine in, at least for 1 night of your stay. The chefs are noted for their use of first-class ingredients deftly handled in both German and international dishes.

Porta Nigra Platz, 54292 Trier. www.friedrich-hotels.de. 0651/9770100. Fax 0651/97701999. 43 units. 95€–115€ double. AE, DC, MC, V. Free parking. In room: A/C, TV, hair dryer, minibar, Wi-Fi (free).

Inexpensive

Becker’s Hotel ★ For Mosel wine lovers, this estate in the suburb of Olewig is the place for both food and lodgings. In summer head here for an alfresco meal on the terrace. On-site are a trio of dining choices, including an expensive gourmet restaurant specializing in an international cuisine, an informal wine cellar, and another restaurant featuring a regional cuisine. Management arranges guided tours, wine tastings, and cellar visits to its own estate offerings.

You can also lodge here in beautifully kept and individually decorated bedrooms, most with light-wood furnishings. Several rooms open onto private balconies overlooking the vineyards.

Olewiger Strasse 206, 54295 Trier-Olewig. www.weinhaus-becker.de. 0651/938080. Fax 0651/9380888. 30 units. 70€–85€ double; 105€–110€ junior suite; 120€ suite. Rates include buffet breakfast. AE, MC, V. Bus: 6 or 16. Amenities: 3 restaurants; bar; room service; Wi-Fi (free; in lobby). In room: TV.

The Best of Germany

In this chapter, you’ll find our carefully compiled lists of the best that Germany has to offer, from castles and cathedrals to spas, restaurants, and sightseeing—and nearly everything else you’ll want to see and do.

The best Experiences

• Exploring the New Berlin: Anyone who lived through the fear of the Cold War can’t help but shudder at the memory of the Berlin Wall. Since reunification, civic planners, with almost manic enthusiasm, have demolished large sections of what once stood as a scar across the face of a defeated nation. The architectural changes and urban developments that constantly update the cityscape around Berlin’s Friedrichstrasse and Potsdamer Platz can be confusing. But regardless of which renewal program is churning up rubble at the time of your visit, a pilgrimage through what used to be the most bitterly contested urban turf in Europe can’t help but provoke powerful emotions.

• Spending a Midsummer’s Night in a Biergarten: When the temperature rises, head for the unpretentious cheer of the nearest Biergarten (everybody in Germany seems to have a favorite, so we’re not even going to try to name the “best”). These watering holes, which often feature trellises, climbing vines, Chinese lanterns, and arbors, offer low-cost fun on soft summer nights. You can order platters of hearty food with your beer or bring your own picnic.

• Cruising the Elbe, the Danube, and the Rhine: This trio of rivers, along with their tributaries, dominated German commerce for hundreds of years. Today, an armada of tugboats, barges, and cruise ships still plies the muddy waters beside riverbanks lined with the historic majesty (and sometimes the industrial might) of central Europe. Cruises begin and end at large cities of historic interest and last anywhere from 6 hours to 7 days. See “Cruising the Mythically Rich Rivers of Germany”.

• Boating on the Königssee: A “King’s Lake” must surely be the best, and the natural beauty surrounding this body of cold, dark water doesn’t disappoint. The quiet boat ride using electric motors will allow you to hear the echoes off the forest-covered mountainsides, as you discover baroque chapels and isolated hamlets along the shore. It might just make a Romantic poet out of you.

• Hiking in the Bavarian Alps: If you’re heeding the call to climb every mountain, then the Bavarian Alps are the place to be in summer. Germany’s excellent network of trails, guides, and huts will allow you to discover the wealth of wildlife and stunning scenery. Two of the countless highlights include the 1,240m (4,070-ft.) Eckbauer south of Partenkirchen, and the southeastern “ear lobe” of Berchtesgaden National Park.

• Ascending the Zugspitze: If the gentle inclines of the Harz Mountains or the Thuringian forests aren’t dramatic enough for you, ride the cable car from Garmisch-Partenkirchen to the top of Germany’s tallest mountain, 2,960m (9,700 ft.) above sea level. The view from the top is suitably panoramic, and you’ll find an appealing aura of German-ness that comes from the many climbers and trekkers who fan out across the hiking trails.

• Experiencing a German Spa: In Germany, the question isn’t whether to visit a spa, but rather which spa to visit. Each resort has its virtues and historical associations, and can supply a list of the health benefits associated with its awful-tasting waters. Regardless of your choice, you’ll emerge from your treatment with a more relaxed attitude and a greater appreciation of German efficiency and sensuality. The most famous spas are in Baden-Baden.

• Motoring along the Neckar: The Neckar River meanders through about 80km (50 miles) of some of Germany’s most famous vineyards. But the real appeal of the winding road along the water is the medieval castles scattered along the way. Highlights en route include Heidelberg, Neckarsteinach, Hirschhorn, Eberbach, Zwingenberg, and Burg Hornberg. Don’t forget to stop en route for samplings of the local wines.

• Spending Harvest Time in the German Vineyards: Springtime in Germany brings the promise of bounty to the legendary vineyards of the Rhine and Mosel valleys, but the autumn harvest is truly the time to visit. Between late August and mid-October, the banks of the rivers turn gold and russet, and armies of workers gather buckets of grapes from rows of carefully pruned vines. Most of the medieval villages and historic castles scattered between Koblenz and Trier are associated with estates where you can sample the wines. See The Rhineland and The Mosel Valley.

• Touring the Fairy-Tale Road (Märchenstrasse): This is one of the newer marketing ideas of the German tourist authorities, but considering its appeal, you’ll wonder why they didn’t think of it earlier. From the town of Hanau (a 30-min. drive northeast of Frankfurt), the route zigzags northward along the Weser River for about 600km (370 miles), through some of Germany’s most evocative folkloric architecture, ending in Bremen. Scores of well-marked detours pepper the way. Required reading for the trip is a collection of the fairy tales of the Brothers Grimm and the Nibelungen legends. Don’t overlook the psychological implications of Goldilocks, the Big Bad Wolf, and the Pied Piper of Hameln.

• Lounging on the Island of Sylt: Don’t expect a lush or verdant island—the climate is temperamental, the setting is savage, the winds blow cold from the north even in summer, and the grasses that manage to survive in the sandy dunes are as weathered and sturdy as the soldiers in a Prussian regiment. Why is it wonderful? Here, the no-nonsense residents of north Germany can preen, flutter, and show off to each other, far from the strictures of their workplaces and the hardworking grind of their everyday lives.

The best Museums

Financial prosperity, artistic flair, and academic curiosity have helped the Germans develop some of the finest museums anywhere.

• Neues Museum, Berlin: Left in ruins for decades after World War II, this museum today houses one of the greatest Egyptian museums in the world, filled with plunder from ancient Egypt. It is home to the celebrated bust of Queen Nefertiti, and its Papyrus Collection is also one of the finest in the world.

• Bode-Museum, Berlin: One of the greatest museums of Germany, the Bode reopened in 2008 to great acclaim. It houses a vast array of museums including a collection of late ancient and Byzantine art. The Picture Gallery is one of the grandest in Germany, and it is particularly strong in masterpieces from the Dutch and German schools of the 15th and 16th centuries.

• Gemäldegalerie, Berlin: This is one of Europe’s leading art museums, with a celebrated collection of works from the 13th to the 18th century. The cavalcade of major European masters ranges from Botticelli and Bruegel to Vermeer and Velázquez. Divided during the Cold War, the collection has been reunited in one home since 1998. The lighting and displays are better than ever.

• Pergamonmuseum, Berlin: Built in 1930 on an island in the Spree, this museum contains entirely reconstructed temples from ancient Assyria, Greece, Rome, and Sumer. Don’t miss the sprawling exhibitions devoted to the ancient art of the Islamic world and the Far East.

• Zwinger, Dresden: A vast rectangular esplanade flanked with pavilions, heroic statues, formal gardens, and galleries, this museum was designed for August the Strong (elector of Saxony and king of Poland), by his favorite architect, Pöppelmann (1662–1736). The destruction of the Zwinger (in the final days of World War II), one of Dresden’s most beautiful buildings, was a great loss, though its postwar reconstruction was a triumph for the East German government. Among the treasures amassed inside are paintings, 18th-century Dresden porcelain, and an ornamental collection of antique weapons.

• Deutsches Museum, Munich: Since 1925, this Louvre of science and technology has led the way in documenting humanity’s innovation. Thoroughly fascinating and amusingly hands-on, its historical exhibits will surely keep you entertained for hours.

• Alte Pinakothek, Munich: This outstanding collection of paintings spanning the 15th to 18th centuries rivals its counterparts in Cologne and Berlin. Its Rubens are gems, and Dürer fans may have to be subdued by the guards. The 19th-century hall provides just the right dosage of art for a few hours.

• Dachau Concentration Camp Memorial Site, Dachau, near Munich: Heinrich Himmler first organized Dachau as a concentration camp for enemies of the Reich in 1933. An escaped inmate, Joseph Rovan, described it as “implacable, perverted, an organization that was totally murderous, a marvelous machine for the debasement and dehumanizing of man.” Today, it’s one of the most poignant museums in the world.

• Lenbachhaus, Munich: Housed in the former villa of portrait painter Franz von Lenbach, this museum has a stunning and internationally renowned collection of modern art. In addition to works from the Blaue Reiter (Blue Rider) group, including Kandinsky, a rich collection of Gothic artwork is an added treat.

• Gutenberg Museum, Mainz: This museum is one of the most comprehensive tributes to printing and publishing anywhere in the world. The bulky presses, on which Johannes Gutenberg used movable type (42 lines per page), and two of the earliest Bibles ever printed are the primary displays here. There’s also a historical rundown on the science and technologies that have dominated the printing industry ever since.

• Museum Ludwig, Cologne: This is the home of one of the world’s largest collections of the works of Pablo Picasso, equaled only by the Picasso museums of Barcelona and Paris. The museum’s collection was beefed up when Irene Ludwig, widow of the late German art patron Peter Ludwig, donated 774 works of Picasso to the museum.

• Wallraf-Richartz Museum/Foundation Corboud, Cologne: The oldest museum in Cologne presents one of Germany’s grandest collections of art, covering the 14th to the 19th century. The collection of Gothic works alone is one of the finest in Europe, and the galleries are a virtual encyclopedia of art, from Flemish old masters to the French Impressionists.

• Kunsthalle, Hamburg: The leading art museum in northern Germany, the Kunsthalle is one of the most important in Europe, with some 3,000 paintings in its treasure-trove, along with some 400 sculptures. Some of its rare treasures date from the 14th century, including works by Bertram, the leading German master of the time. One section of the gallery also displays modern works, including pieces by such artists as Andy Warhol, Joseph Beuys, and Picasso.

The best Castles & Palaces

During the Middle Ages, Germany was divided into many intensely competitive feudal states and principalities. This unstable atmosphere encouraged the construction of fortified castles. As hostilities died down, architects began to design for comfort, style, and prestige, adding large windows, gilded stucco and plaster, frescoes, and formal gardens. As a result, Germany is full of all kinds and styles of Burg and Schloss (various names for castles and palaces).

• Sanssouci Palace, Potsdam: Friedrich the Great’s retreat, where he came to read, listen to music, and generally renew his allegiance to the principles of the Enlightenment, is Germany’s most successful blend of landscape and architecture. The more than 120 hectares (300 acres) of intricately landscaped gardens have enough pavilions, fountains, orangeries, and heroic statues to keep a visitor intrigued for days. The palace itself is an architectural highlight, approached by a terraced staircase of sublime beauty.

• Schloss Wartburg, Eisenach: Built between the 11th and 16th centuries, this was the headquarters of the Landgraves of Thuringia, a center of patronage for the Minnesinger (troubadours) of Germany, and a place of refuge for Martin Luther, who completed his translation of the Bible within its massive walls. Wagner used it as inspiration for the setting of Tannhäuser, and Johann Sebastian Bach and Goethe both visited. Today, from its position on a rocky hilltop, it’s a regional museum.

• Residenz, Würzburg: Built between 1720 and 1744 as the official residence of the powerful bishops of Würzburg, this is one of the most massive baroque palaces in Germany. It combines a Hofkirche (chapel) with gardens, a gallery of paintings, frescoes by Tiepolo, and enough decoration to satisfy the most demanding taste for ornamentation. Also within its showrooms are a worthy collection of ancient Greek and Roman artifacts and valuable paintings from the 14th to the 19th century.

• Neuschwanstein, near Füssen: Love it or hate it, this fairy-tale castle is actually a phenomenon worth seeing. Enter the romantic world of “Mad” King Ludwig II and his theater set designer, a world that further inspired the folks at Disneyland, or marvel at the tourist circus surrounding the 19th-century fantasy. Either way, the outstanding mountain scenery alone is worth the trip.

• Hohenschwangau Castle, near Füssen: Watching its bombastic younger brother from the opposite hill, this lesser-known residence built on 12th-century ruins merits just as much a visit. Finished in 1836, the eventual king Maximilian II lived here with his family, which included the young Ludwig II.

• Schloss Nymphenburg, Munich: This summer palace constructed between 1664 and 1674 features fine interiors on a modest scale that will leave you with enough energy to enjoy the splendid gardens and pavilions. An ideal place to experience the former glory of the long-lost Bavarian kingdom.

• Schloss Linderhof, near Oberammergau: This palace was built in the 1870s as a teenage indulgence by Ludwig II. Its architects created a whimsically eclectic fantasy, inspired by Italian baroque architecture. In the surrounding park, Moorish pavilions and Mediterranean cascades appear against Alpine vistas in combinations that are as startling as they are charming.

• Altes Schloss, Meersburg: Legend has it that this palace’s cornerstone was laid in 628 by Dagobert, king of the Franks. The palace remained a Catholic stronghold even during the Protestant Reformation, housing bishops who appreciated its 3m-thick (10-ft.) walls as a bulwark against the rising tempest around them. In the early 1800s, when its owners threatened to tear the palace down, a German Romantic, Baron Joseph von Lassberg, bought it and transformed it into a refuge for writers, poets, and painters. Although it remains mostly a private residence, you can visit many parts of the palace.

• Heidelberg Castle, Heidelberg: This castle originated as a Gothic-Renaissance masterpiece in the 1500s and was massively expanded as rival rulers competed for control of the Rhineland. After the French sacked and burned the town and the castle in 1689, it never regained its original glory. Today, the ruins brood in dignified severity from a position on a rocky hilltop high above the student revelry and taverns of the folkloric city below.

• Burg Eltz, Moselkern, near Cochem: Its multiple turrets and towers, which rise amid a thick forest near the Mosel River, evoke the chivalry and poetry of the Middle Ages. This is one of the best-preserved medieval castles in Germany.

The best Cathedrals

• Kaiserdom (Imperial Cathedral), Speyer: Partly because of their age, Romanesque churches are the most impressive symbols of early medieval Germany. This massive church, from 1030, has four bell towers; a cornerstone laid by one of Germany’s earliest kings, Konrad II; and an undeniable sense of the (anonymous) architect’s aesthetic links with the traditions of ancient Rome.

• Dom St. Peter, Worms: This church is a grand example of High Romanesque style, its oldest section dating from 1132. The Diet of Worms, held here in 1521, condemned the beliefs of the young Martin Luther and banished him to the far boundaries of the Holy Roman Empire.

• Kölner Dom, Cologne: Based on French Gothic models in Paris and Amiens, this cathedral was envisioned as one of the largest religious buildings in Christendom. It required 600 years to finish—work stopped for about 300 years (1560–1842), until the neo-Gothic fervor of the Romantic age fueled its completion. In 1880, it was inaugurated with appropriate pomp and circumstance in the presence of the German kaiser. Today, its vast russet-colored bulk towers are instantly recognizable from miles away.

• Dom (Cathedral), Aachen: Its size and the stonework dating from 1414 are deeply impressive, but even more so is the cathedral’s association with the earliest of German emperors, Charlemagne. He was crowned in an older building on this site in A.D. 800. The cathedral’s treasury contains gem-encrusted Christian artifacts from the 10th century, with heft and barbaric glitter that evoke pre-Christian Germania.

The most charming Small Villages

• Quedlinburg: Spared in part from the ravages of World War II, this town in the Harz mountains still evokes the Middle Ages with its 1,600 half-timbered buildings, more than any other town in the country. Named a UNESCO World Heritage Site, Quedlinburg is a gem of yesterday and was an imperial residence for 2 centuries. Wander the cobblestone streets of the Altstadt (Old Town) for a journey back in time.

• Meissen: Some 25km (16 miles) north of Dresden, this is a romantic little town built along the banks of the River Elbe. It’s celebrated for its porcelain, which carries a trademark of two crossed blue swords and is valued by collectors the world over. Even without its porcelain factory, the town merits a visit for its quiet charm, its old buildings, and its 15th-century castle.

• Rothenburg: If you have time for only one stop along the Romantic Road, make it Rothenburg ob der Tauber, which may be your only chance in life to see a still-intact medieval walled city. Rothenburg exists in a time capsule, though 40% of the town was destroyed during World War II. Luckily, locals quickly rebuilt their Altstadt in its former style to reclaim their glorious architectural past.

• Dinkelsbühl: If you have time for a second stop along the Romantic Road, try Dinkelsbühl. Though not as grand as the more celebrated Rothenburg, it has far fewer tourists and therefore retains more old-time charm.

• Mittenwald: This town has long been celebrated as the most beautiful in the Bavarian Alps, with magnificently decorated houses, painted facades and ornately carved gables. In the mid–17th century, it was known as “the Village of a Thousand Violins” because of the stringed instruments made here.

• Lindau: Dating from the 9th century, this former free imperial town of the Holy Roman Empire is like a fantasy of what a charming Bavarian lakeside village should look like, if only in the movies. But this garden “city,” under landmark protection, is for real. Lindau is enveloped by aquamarine waters, and one part of it is known as the Gartenstadt because of its luxuriant flowers and shrubs.

• Rüdesheim: The Rhine Valley’s most popular wine town is set along the edge of the mighty river. Rüdesheim is known for its half-timbered buildings and its Drosselgasse (Thrush Lane), a narrow cobblestone lane stretching for 180m (600 ft.) and lined with wine taverns and cozy restaurants.

• Cochem: If you’re seeking an idyllic medieval riverside town during your “grape tour” of the Mosel River valley, make it Cochem, famous for its towering castle, dating from 1027. On the left bank of the Mosel, Cochem lies in a picture-postcard setting of vineyards. Little inns serving a regional cuisine along with plenty of Mosel wine make Cochem a highly desirable overnight stop and a nice alternative to the more commercial centers found along the nearby Rhine.

The best Driving Tours

The appeal of the open road is a prominent part of German culture. Some of the best drives include the following:

• The Romantic Road: This well-traveled 350km (220 mile) route, which stretches between Würzburg and Füssen at the foot of the Bavarian Alps, is dotted with lovely medieval towns.

• The Fairy-Tale Road: The colorful characters of the Brothers Grimm live again along this 595km (370-mile) stretch, beginning in the little town of Hanau and stretching all the way north to Bremen. This is one of the great motor trips of Germany for those who thrilled to those nursery-room favorites.

• Alpine Road: Scenic majesty and architectural charm combine for an unforgettable experience on this 480km (300-mile) road through the foothills of the Bavarian Alps. See “Exploring the Region by Car.”

• Upper Black Forest: Fairy tales always seem more believable when you’re in the Black Forest, and the twisting secondary roads that connect Freiburg with Lake Titisee pass through lots of charming scenery and architecture. See the box “An Excursion to the Upper Black Forest.”

• Mosel Valley: The road along this Rhine tributary passes by some of the country’s most famous vineyards. At least a half-dozen of the cities en route are worth visiting as well. See for more information.

The best Walks

• The Royal Castle Walk: For one of the grandest panoramas in all of the Alps (in any country), hike up to the Marienbrücke, the bridge that spans the Pöllat Gorge behind Neuschwanstein Castle. From there, if you’re up to it, you can continue uphill for about an hour for an amazing view of “Mad” King Ludwig’s fantasy castle.

• Partnachklamm: One of the most dramatic walks in all of the Bavarian Alps starts from the great winter sports resort of Garmisch-Partenkirchen. A signposted trail leads to the dramatic Partnachklamm Gorge. Carved from solid rock, the route passes two panoramic bottlenecks amid the thunder of falling water and clouds of spray.

• Mainau Island: A walk across the footbridge to Mainau, in Lake Constance, is like a visit to a tropical country. Mainau is filled with exotic plants collected by the Baden princes and members of the Royal House of Sweden. Tropical brushwood and other botanical wonders still thrive in this mild climate. You’ll hardly believe you’re in Germany.

• Cochem: Reichsburg Cochem (Cochem Castle), which towers over the little town of the same name, can be reached on foot in about 15 minutes from the town’s Marktplatz. Although hardly an Alpine climb, this walk is one of the most rewarding you’ll find in Germany, with panoramas in all directions.

The best Biking

• Munich by Bike: You see so many locals riding bikes that you might think Munich is the biking capital of Germany. If you’d like to join the fun, pick up a copy of the pamphlet Rad-Touren für unsere Gäste (Bike-Riding for Our Guests) at the tourist office. It outlines itineraries for touring Munich by bike.

• Lake Constance: Rent a bike at the train station in the former imperial town of Lindau, and set out in any direction to enjoy the views of this beautiful lake. The Lindau tourist office will provide a map and suggestions for the best routes to follow.

• The Neckar Valley Cycle Path: This signposted path allows you to follow the source of the Neckar, beginning in Villingen-Schwenningen and going all the way to the confluence of the Rhine at Mannheim. Instead of going the entire way, many visitors prefer to pick up a bicycle in Heidelberg and cycle along the riverbanks until they find a good spot for a picnic. See “Exploring on Two Wheels.”

• Lüneburg Heath: This wild heath in northern Germany is one of the country’s major natural attractions. (Some of Germany’s greatest poets have waxed rhapsodic about this shrub-covered land.) Rent a bike, pick up a map at the Lüneburg tourist office, and set out on your adventure. See “The Lüneburg Heath.”

The best Spas

• Bad Reichenhall: Many spa lovers head for this remote corner of Bavaria to “take the waters.” Europe’s largest saline source was first tapped in pre-Christian times and the place has a definite 19th-century aura. And though some of the hotels in the town are better than others, all have equal access to the spa and lie about a 5-minute walk away.

• Baden-Baden: There’s no better spa in all of Germany, and certainly none more fashionable or famous—it’s also site of the country’s most celebrated casino. Baden-Baden’s spa’s been going strong since the leisure class of the 19th century discovered its healing waters, although the Roman legions of Emperor Caracalla had discovered the springs long before that. As at Bad Reichenhall, all hotels, no matter the price range, have equal access to the spa.

• Wiesbaden: One of Germany’s oldest cities, Wiesbaden attracted Roman legions to its hot springs, and lures today’s fashionable traveler as well. It’s not as chic as Baden-Baden, but Wiesbaden has one of Germany’s most elegant casinos and concert halls, along with two gourmet restaurants. In summer, the beer garden at the Kurhaus is one of the liveliest along the Rhine.

• Bad Homburg: Bad Homburg lies at the foot of the Taunus Hills in a setting of medieval castles and luxuriant forests. There are more than 31 fountains in the town’s Kurpark. The Bad Homburg Palace was once the summer residence of Prussian kings.

The best Luxury Hotels

German efficiency and cleanliness are legendary, so it’s not surprising that you can choose from a great number of well-managed hotels.

• Grand Hotel Esplanade, Berlin (www.esplanade.de; 866/597-8341 in the U.S., or 030/254788255): This strikingly contemporary hotel near several foreign embassies is one of the most prestigious in the German capital. With its collection of modern art, its spacious, cheerfully decorated rooms, and its first-class service, it is a prime address for the luxury minded.

• The Regent, Berlin (www.theregentberlin.com; 888/201-1806 in the U.S., or 030/20338): One of Germany’s great luxury hotels, the Regent is all about opulence, superb service, and comfort. It’s discreet, tasteful, reliable, and a brilliant addition to the roster of luxury leaders in Germany’s capital.

• Hotel Elephant, Weimar (www.starwoodhotels.com; 03643/8020): This is one of Germany’s most interesting hotels because of its age (over 300 years), its name, its 50-year survival in Germany’s eastern zone, and its associations with such luminaries as Schiller, Liszt, and Goethe. Today, it’s a cost-conscious treasure chest of German history.

• Eisenhut, Rothenburg ob der Tauber (www.eisenhut.com; 09861/7050): This hotel’s 16th-century walls and valuable collection of antiques enhance the appeal of the most authentic Renaissance town in Germany.

• Hotel Vier Jahreszeiten Kempinski München, Munich (www.kempinski.com; 800/426-3135 in the U.S., or 089/21250): Munich’s most prestigious choice offers elegance and luxury. The wealthy and titled have checked in here for more than a century, enjoying the ambience, the antiques, the style, and the grace.

• Bayerischer Hof & Palais Montgelas, Munich (www.bayerischerhof.de; 089/21200): This deluxe hotel and 17th-century Bavarian palace together form Munich’s answer to New York’s Waldorf-Astoria. This is the only hotel in Munich to provide serious competition for the Kempinski Hotel.

• Der Kleine Prinz, Baden-Baden (www.derkleineprinz.de; 07221/346600): This hotel’s director once helped manage the New York Hilton and the Waldorf-Astoria. Today, he and his wife run a century-old pair of neobaroque houses in the heart of Germany’s most elegant resort, Baden-Baden. Inspired by Saint-Exupéry’s The Little Prince this stands as one of the most romantic of Germany’s many romantic hotels.

• Krone Assmannshausen, Rüdesheim-Assmannshausen (www.hotel-krone.com; 06722/4030): Sprawling along the banks of the Rhine in an oversize, grangelike, gingerbread-laden fantasy, this hotel has witnessed the arrival of many important Germans (including Goethe) in its 400 years. It also contains one of the best traditional restaurants in town.

• Fürstenhof Celle, Celle (www1.fuerstenhof.de; 05141/2010): This 17th-century manor, enlarged with half-timbered wings, stands out even in a town legendary for its medieval and Renaissance buildings. There’s a cozy bar in the medieval cellar and one of the best dining rooms in Lower Saxony.

• Fairmont Hotel Vier Jahreszeiten, Hamburg (www.fairmont.com/hamburg; 888/425-8227 in the U.S. and Canada, or 040/34940): Its dignified interior is as opulent as its 19th-century facade. This hotel’s appeal is correctly aristocratic, but it has a touch of the saltwater zestiness that makes Hamburg a great city.

The best Small Inns & Hotels

• Art’otel, Berlin (www.artotels.com; 030/884470): This hotel in the heart of Berlin is chic, discreet, and unique. The swirling action of the Ku’Damm lies right outside the door, but inside, the decor is soothing and serene, the work of some of the Continent’s top designers.

• Altstadt-Hotel, Passau (www.altstadt-hotel.de; 0851/3370): This inexpensive hotel stands at the convergence of three rivers—the Danube, the Ilz, and the Inn. But the hotel offers more than river views—it’s comfortably and traditionally furnished, and its regional cuisine and convivial pub attract the locals.

• Gästehaus Englischer Garten, Munich (www.hotelenglischergarten.de; 089/3839410): This is an oasis of charm and tranquillity, close to the Englischer Garten, where buffed Munich lies out nude in the sun. The furnishings are in an old-fashioned Bavarian style, but the comfort level is first-rate.

• Parkhotel Atlantic Schlosshotel, Heidelberg (www.parkhotel-atlantic.de; 06221/60420): This 24-room inn is on the wooded outskirts of Heidelberg, near the famous castle. Every room is comfortable and convenient, and in the afternoon you can go for long walks along the woodland trails surrounding the property.

• Antik-Hotel Bristol, Cologne (www.antik-hotel-bristol.de; 0221/120195): In the heart of this cathedral city along the Rhine, this unique hotel is filled with antiques, both country rustic and town-house elegant, making the atmosphere both authentic and inviting.

The best Restaurants

• Die Quadriga, Berlin ( 030/214050;www.brandenburger-hof.com): Critics hail this gastronomic wonder in the Hotel Brandenburger Hof as Berlin’s finest dining choice. Celebrated for its modern Continental cuisine, it’s where the president of Germany takes his favorite guests when he wants to “show off.” While seated in a 1904 chair designed by Frank Lloyd Wright, you can enjoy food that is, in a word, sublime.

• Essigbrätlein, Nürnberg ( 0911/225131): Food critics single this out as the best dining spot in Nürnberg, and we heartily agree. Its upscale Franconian and Continental cuisine is reason enough to visit the city.

• Weinhaus Zum Stachel, Würzburg ( 0931/52770;www.weinhaus-stachel.de): This is the oldest (ca. 1413) wine house in a town loaded with them. Food is good, portions are copious, the wine flows, and everyone has a wonderful time. This is old-time Deutschland at its most appealing.

• Tantris, Munich ( 089/3619590;www.tantris.de): Savvy German food critics have honored Tantris’s Hans Haas as the country’s top chef. He definitely serves some of the finest and most innovative food in Bavaria.

• Hanse Stube, Cologne ( 0221/2701;www.excelsiorhotelernst.com): Located in a landmark hotel, this restaurant lies on the same square as the fabled Rhineland cathedral. French cuisine in Cologne doesn’t get any better than this—the chefs have a prodigious talent for preparing food using only the finest and freshest ingredients.

• Victorian Restaurant, Düsseldorf ( 0211/865500;www.restaurant-victorian.de): Regulars know what a treasure they have in this restaurant: Market-fresh ingredients and a steady hand in the kitchen produce award-winning traditional and modern food.

• Waldhotel Sonnora, outside Bernkastel-Kues ( 06578/406;www.hotel-sonnora.de): In the Mosel Valley, the Waldhotel Sonnora is one of the most justifiably acclaimed restaurants in the country. Be sure to make a reservation as far in advance as possible and prepare yourself for a gastronomic adventure in Continental cuisine. Herr Thieltges, the chef, told us, “We don’t just serve dishes—rather, culinary masterpieces.” We agree.

• Fischereihafen Restaurant, Altona, near Hamburg ( 040/381816;www.fischereihafenrestaurant.de): Patrons from Tina Turner to Helmut Kohl have pronounced the food here delightful. From a window seat, you can overlook the boats that might have hauled in your sole, eel, turbot, herring, or flounder from the seas that day.

The best Beer Halls & Taverns

• Auerbachs Keller, Leipzig ( 0341/216100;auerbachs-keller-leipzig.de): The most famous tavern in eastern Germany, this is where Goethe staged the debate between Faust and Mephistopheles. The tavern dates from 1530 and has a series of murals evoking the Faust legend.

• Augustiner Bräustuben, Munich ( 089/5022569;www.braeustuben.de): Although many raid the famous Hofbräuhaus (see below), this authentic tavern at the backdoor of the Augustiner brewery combines the Bavarian camaraderie and flavorful fare without the tourist circus. It occupies the former horse stalls, but don’t fret—the odor has long since dissipated. Best of all, they fill the massive Mass glasses for one of the lowest prices in town.

* Hofbräuhaus, Munich ( 089/221676;www.hofbraeuhaus.de): Needing no introduction, the Hofbräuhaus can stake the claim as the world’s most famous beer hall, packing in up to 4,500 beer drinkers on any given night. Music from live bands and huge mugs of beer served at wooden tables combine to produce the best of Bavarian nighttime fun.

• Zum Roten Ochsen, Heidelberg ( 06221/20977;www.roterochsen.de): Over the years, “The Red Ox” has drawn beer drinkers from Mark Twain to Bismarck. Students have been getting plastered here since 1703, and the tradition continues to this day.

• Ratskeller, Bremen ( 0421/321676;ratskeller-bremen.de): This is one of the most celebrated Ratskellers in Germany. A tradition for decades, it serves top-notch German and international food and some of the best suds along the Rhineland, as well as one of the longest lists of vintage wines from the country’s vineyards.

The best Shopping

The best way to approach shopping here is to make it a part of your overall experience and not an end unto itself. Though Berlin and Munich are the major shopping centers in Germany, the rest of the country is okay—neither a shopper’s mecca nor the bargain basement of Europe. Still, you can find some good buys here.

• Porcelain: For centuries, Germany has been known for the quality of its porcelain. Names such as KPM, Rosenthal, and Meissen are household words. KPM, for example, has been a Berlin tradition for more than 2 centuries.

• Handicrafts: In the Bavarian Alps, woodcarvers still carry on their time-honored tradition. The best place to purchase woodcarvings is in the Alpine village of Oberammergau.

• Timepieces: Corny though they may be, carved Black Forest cuckoo clocks remain an enduring favorite.

• Cutlery: WMF (Württembergische-Metalwaren-Fabrik) and J. A. Henckels are two of the country’s premier producers of fine cutlery. Their knives are expensive, but longtime users say they last forever. Both WMF and Henckels stores are found all over Germany.

Germany in Depth

A unified, wealthy, industrial yet beautiful Germany awaits you and promises some of the most intriguing travel experiences in Europe.

Many of its treasures were lost in World War II, but much remains and has been restored. Natural scenery, particularly in the Black Forest, the Mosel Valley, the Harz Mountains, and the Bavarian Alps, is a potent lure.

For those who want to see history in the making, we’d recommend visiting Potsdam, Leipzig, Dresden, Meissen, and Weimar, all centers of East Germany before German unification in October 1990. Keep in mind, however, that although political developments have been fast paced, the infrastructure of the five new states cannot change overnight, and living standards there are still different from those in (the former) West Germany.

Germany is one of the most modern and, at the same time, the most traditional of countries. Its advanced technology and industry are the envy of the rest of the world. Here you’ll likely meet people of learning and sophistication, boasting a long cultural heritage and devotion to music and the arts.

This guide is meant to help you decide where to go in Germany and how best to enjoy its charms, but ultimately the most gratifying rewards will be your own serendipitous discoveries—drinking beer in a yard shaded by chestnut trees, picnicking in a Bavarian meadow, or spending time chatting with a winemaker in the Mosel Valley. You will surely remember experiences like these for years to come.

Germany Today

In late September 2009, Chancellor Angela Merkel swept to reelection, making her one of the longest-serving leaders among Europe’s major powers. Her Christian Democrats formed a new center-right government, triumphing over Social Democrats, who fared badly in the election.

In a union with the probusiness Free Democrats, Merkel strengthened her hand in Germany, and in the next year or so may begin to enact the kind of liberalizing economic plans she proposed when she first ran for chancellor.

Her victory was muted by Germany’s rising budget deficits as a result of the global economic crisis.

As an example of the changing times, Ms. Merkel, Germany’s first female chancellor, is joined by the first openly gay vice-chancellor and foreign minister, Guido Westerwelle, who shepherded his Free Democrats to their strongest showing ever. All this occurring in a country that a few decades ago sent homosexuals to the concentration camps and the gas chambers, along with Jews and Gypsies.

It is still ranked low on the threat of terrorism in spite of memories of the 1972 Munich Massacre at the Olympic Games, in which 11 Jewish athletes were killed.

Germany has about 84 million citizens, making it the most densely populated of the nations in the E.U. The capital, Berlin, has the largest population, with some 3.5 million residents, trailed by Hamburg and Munich.

Germany today remains split between Protestantism and Catholicism, and it is not homogeneous, as each year it greets an influx of non-German immigrants.

Turks form the largest group of immigrants (2.3 million), followed by Sorbs (about 60,000) and even some 50,000 Dane, who live in Schleswig-Holstein near the Danish border.

In spite of a gloomy economy, Germany still remains the third-largest economy in the world, with exports counting for 40% of its GDP.

Although East and West Germany long ago united as the Berlin Wall came tumbling down, conflicts remain. Westerners often express resentment at having to spend so many of their euros on propping up the less affluent Easterners, who lived for so long under Communist rule.

The Ossis, as Easterners are known in Germany, often claim that they feel like poor cousins come to live with a far more affluent family, the Wessis (those from the former West Germany).

The friends you’re likely to meet in Germany (and you’re likely to meet many) will probably be well educated and will possess linguistic skills (almost certainly including English) that, by the standards of the rest of the world, particularly the United States, are astonishing. Many younger Germans are likely to be guided by a sense of idealism, even zeal, for ecological and other causes.

Germans, like Americans, are worried about job security. The greatest fear sweeping across Germany today is of “job hemorrhage.” German companies are finding that more and more of their manufacturing plants and jobs can be farmed out to other locations, including, ironically enough, Alabama and South Carolina, where wages and benefits for workers at a BMW plant are about 30% less than in Germany. In the Czech Republic, just across the border, wages are equivalent to 10% of those paid in Germany, for workers nearly as well qualified.

But in spite of its problems, a modern Germany, centered around Berlin, continues to remain at the epicenter of European culture and a continuing powerhouse in the E.U.

Looking Back: German History

Note About Maps

This guide contains dozens of maps of varying sizes and complexity. If you find it hard to read a map on your device, use the zoom function to enlarge. You can also download and/or printout PDFs of all of the maps in this guide. Go to www.frommers.com/go/ebookmaps and click on the title of your guide.

Germany’s Historic Borders

Early Days

“A large build, very strong in the attack, but not suitable to the same extent for heavy work” was how Tacitus, the Roman historian, described the Teutons in A.D. 60. The Romans had been trying to push the borders of their empire up to the Rhineland, with mixed success, since 9 B.C., but the Teutonic tribes fought back ferociously. The first recognized German national hero was Arminius, who led his tribe (the Cherusci) in defeating three Roman legions near modern-day Bielefeld in A.D. 9.

After the deterioration of the Roman Empire, the Franks ruled much of what we now know as Germany. In 800, a Frankish king, Charlemagne, extended the Carolingian Empire from the Pyrenees to Saxony and Bavaria. His rule marks the high point of cultural and political development of that period. He divided the empire into counties, each with an administrator directly responsible to him, and promoted education, scholarship, and the revival of Greek and Roman culture.

The Holy Roman Empire

After Charlemagne’s death, the Carolingian Empire fell apart. In 843, the Treaty of Verdun granted the empire’s eastern territory to Louis the German, marking the beginning of German history.

In 962, the pope recognized Otto I as emperor of what was later called the Holy Roman Empire. This new political entity was formed both to impose unity on the European political world and to create a bulwark against the invasion of non-Christian tribes. It claimed direct links to the grandeur of ancient Rome and to the more contemporary might of the church.

Unity, however, did not prevail. The empire splintered into a bickering alliance of dukedoms, bishoprics, and principalities. The emperor’s authority was often dependent on German nobles and the pope. A capital city that could have served as a center of power was never established—the monarch simply moved from one city to another, mustering an army and collecting revenue wherever he could—so the possibilities for dynastic intrigues were endless. In subsequent jockeying, the church itself was a voracious competitor for power. This power struggle broke out into open conflict in 1076, when Pope Gregory VII excommunicated the emperor, Henry IV, who was forced to stand barefoot in the snow outside Canossa, humiliated, awaiting a repeal.

To strengthen their position as the Holy Roman Empire declined, the emperors turned to alliances with the wealthy, independent trading ports to the north and east, under the federation of the Hanseatic League. Such German cities as Hamburg, Lübeck, and Bremen grew in both economic and political power. Eventually the league controlled trade as far as Novgorod in Russia.

The Reformation & the Religious Wars

When an Augustinian monk, Martin Luther, nailed his theological and political complaints to a church door in Wittenberg in 1517, he set off a political and religious wildfire that spread across the landscape of Europe. The fragmented political situation in Germany played into Luther’s hands: For every prince who condemned him, he found one to protect him. Luther’s Reformation fanned the flames of Germany’s political factions. A new conflict between Catholics and Protestants set the stage for the devastation of the Thirty Years’ War (1618–48), which entrenched the divided sensibilities of the splintered nation.

The only powerful German state to emerge from these conflicts was Prussia, a tiny northeast kingdom on the Baltic Sea. The rise of Prussian power continued through the 18th century until, led by a soldier and patron of the Enlightenment, Friedrich (Frederick) the Great, Prussia became a major kingdom, with Berlin as its capital.

Napoleon Arrives

After the French Revolution, Napoleon and his new political ideas swept across Europe. The left bank of the Rhine came under French control. Under these pressures, the Holy Roman Empire officially came to an end in 1806. Around the same time, Napoleon’s armies invaded Prussia, making it, for a brief time, a part of the French Empire. But Napoleon was defeated at Leipzig in 1813; 2 years later, Britain and Prussia crushed him at the Battle of Waterloo.

Bismarck & Prussia

The Congress of Vienna (1814–15) redrew the map of Germany after Napoleon’s defeat, giving more territory to Prussia but making Austria the leader in a German Confederation. During this time, there was a rising spirit of nationalism, exploited to good effect by Prince Otto von Bismarck when he became Prussia’s prime minister in 1862. Prussia triumphed in the Austro-Prussian War of 1866, and after the subsequent Franco-Prussian War (1870–71), when Prussia laid siege to Paris, Bismarck succeeded in his goal of unification. Wilhelm I was made emperor of all Germany in 1871, and a strong, unified Germany at last took shape. Under Bismarck’s leadership, Germany adopted an advanced social welfare system and brought its military and industrial production, as well as technical and scientific achievements, to new heights.

The Prussians

Take, for instance, the Prussians: they are saints when compared with the French. They have every sort of excellence; they are honest, sober, hardworking, well instructed, brave, good sons, husbands, and fathers and yet . . . all with whom I have been thrown were proud as Scotchmen, cold as New Englanders, and touchy as only Prussians can be.

—Henry Labouchere, 1871

World War I

By 1907, Europe was divided into two camps: the Triple Alliance (Germany, Austria-Hungary, and Italy) and the Triple Entente (France, Great Britain, and Russia). The match that ignited the powder keg was struck at Sarajevo in 1914, with the assassination of Archduke Franz Ferdinand, heir to the Austro-Hungarian Empire. The subsequent German invasion of France launched the bloodiest war the world had ever seen. A new and particularly demoralizing form of battle, “trench warfare,” produced staggering casualties. On August 8, 1918, the Allies penetrated German lines, and the German high command realized the situation was hopeless.

To get more favorable treatment from the Allies, the Germans voluntarily declared a parliamentary democracy, ending the reign of the kaiser. Despite that concession, in 1918 Germany was forced to sign the humiliating Treaty of Versailles, which demanded the surrender of strategic territories, including Alsace-Lorraine, just west of the Rhine. The Allies—especially the French—also demanded huge monetary reparations.

Weimar Republic

In 1919, the National Assembly met in Weimar to draw up a new constitution, hailed at the time as the most progressive in the world. But in defeated and humiliated postwar Germany, extremists from both the left and the right launched savage attacks against the inexperienced and idealistic government. Enormous payments demanded by the Allies crippled the German economy. When Germany couldn’t make reparations, France retaliated by occupying the Ruhr, one of Germany’s most valuable industrial resources. Inflation destroyed what was left of the German economy.

Life is a Cabaret

by George McDonald

Cabaret existed in Germany long before World War I, and even in its early days it strained against the boundaries of censorship and the prevailing moral climate. But the form really came into its own during the years that followed defeat in the war. During the 1920s and 30s, the chaos of the Weimar Republic, hyperinflation and economic meltdown, street battles between militias of right and left, and the steady rise of the anti-Semitic Nazi Party formed the backdrop to a collapse of traditional values. Live it up while you can and spend money while you have it was the new morality. Cabaret provided entertainment with a satirical and political bent that suited the mood and circumstances of the times, influenced by cutting-edge artistic and social movements such as Dadaism, social expressionism, and Neue Sachlichkeit (new objectivity).

Berlin between the wars generally gets the historical kudos when it comes to cabaret, but in fact the capital was a long way behind pre-war Munich in taking to the genre. German Kabarett emerged as different from original French form in that it was nearly always a vehicle for political satire. In clubs like Die Elf Scharfrichter (The Eleven Executioners), founded in 1901 in the Schwabing district, Munich’s bohemians, socialists, progressives, and avant-gardistes of all stripes got together to gripe and poke fun at the smug, stultifyingly bourgeois society in which they lived.

Life in between-the-wars Berlin inspired writers like, among others, Christopher Isherwood, who lived in the city from 1929 to 1933. He wrote The Berlin Stories (1946), comprising two novellas—Good-Bye to Berlin and Mr. Norris Changes Trains—based in part on his experiences. The first of the two stories became the source of the stage and film versions of Cabaret.

“Old chums” and many more fans are still rolling up to the louche cabaret depicted in the modern Broadway show Cabaret, first performed in 1966 and revived at regular intervals ever since, and in the Hollywood movie based on the show, Cabaret (1972), directed by Bob Fosse and starring Liza Minnelli and Joel Grey.

Famous Period Cabarets

Die Katakombe Comedian Werner Finck (1902–78) found “The Catacombs” on Bellevuestrasse, just off Potsdamer Platz, in Berlin in 1929. His subtle jibes at Brownshirts, the Gestapo, and other “pillars” of the Nazi establishment made him popular—and brought secret policemen into the audience to “take notes.” Nazi propaganda minister Joseph Goebbels ordered the cabaret closed in 1935, and Finck spent 6 weeks in a concentration camp before enlisting in the German army.

Kabarett der Komiker Better known as Kadeko, the Cabaret of Comics took a less risky approach than Die Katakombe in its choice of material. A well-known Kadeko Conferencier (Master of Ceremonies), Fritz Grunbaum, frequently employed his acid wit on his own audiences, ribbing them for, among other things, their disgusting eating habits.

Wien-München From 1915 to 1916, the “Vienna-Munich” cabaret in Munich had as its director the comic actor Karl Valentin, who has been dubbed “the German Chaplin.” In the 1930s, Valentin made two failed attempts to get his Panoptikum für Gruseliges und Nonsens (Panopticon for Horror and Nonsense) exhibit in Munich off the ground.

Living the Revival

Popular among visitors to Berlin, Munich, Frankfurt, Dresden, and other German towns is the kind of nightspot depicted in the musical Cabaret, with floor-show patter and acts that satirize the political and social scene, though the satire is less biting than it was during the time of the Weimar Republic. Some of today’s cabaret shows may remind you of Broadway blockbusters, without much of the intimacy of the smoky, trenchant cellar revues of the 1920s and early 1930s.

Playlist

• Berlin; Marlene Dietrich.

• Berlin Cabaret Songs; Ute Lemper, Mischa Spoliansky.

• Kurt Weill’s The Seven Deadly Sins & Berlin Theatre Songs; Lotte Lenya.

• Songs of the Berlin Cabaret 1920–29; Friedrich Hollaender, Jody Karin Appelbaum, Marc-André Hamelin.

The Rise of Nazism

This was just the right climate for the rise of Adolf Hitler and the Nazi Party. The Nazis believed in the superiority of the Aryan race and blamed non-Aryans, particularly Jews, for Germany’s woes. At first Hitler’s anti-Semitic, nationalist ideas failed to gain popular support, even with right-wingers. Nazi membership in the Reichstag (parliament) dropped from 25 in 1925 to only a dozen following the elections of 1928.

In 1932, Hitler lost the electoral race for president against the compromise candidate of the democratic parties, war hero Paul von Hindenburg. Nevertheless, Hitler’s power increased, and on January 30, 1933, Hindenburg submitted to right-wing pressure and appointed Hitler chancellor. Upon Hindenburg’s death in 1934, Hitler declared himself Führer (leader) of the Third Reich, a new German empire. Protected by hastily drafted laws and regulations, he made his power absolute.

On June 30, 1934, Hitler disposed of any opposing elements in his own party in the “Night of Long Knives,” when hundreds were massacred, including Ernst Röhm, chief of his notorious Brownshirts. Heinrich Himmler’s black-shirted Schutzstaffel (SS) became a powerful political force. Surrounded by adoring fans (or, at best, passive witnesses), Hitler now viewed his empire as a worthy successor to those of Charlemagne and Bismarck.

In 1936, Hitler remilitarized the Rhineland and signed agreements with Japan and fascist Italy, forming the Axis alliance. In 1938, he enforced the Anschluss (annexation) of Austria and marched triumphantly into the country of his birth, and he occupied the German-speaking Sudetenland in Czechoslovakia, an act that other western powers could not summon the will to oppose.

The horrors of unchecked Nazi rule lasted until 1945. The Gestapo, or secret police, launched one of the most notorious reigns of terror in history. Anyone whom the Nazis considered enemies or simply undesirables—which included Communists, Social Democrats, homosexuals, political dissidents, Gypsies, and many others—was persecuted. Jews were disenfranchised, terrorized, and forced into ghettos and concentration camps.

World War II

In late August 1939, Hitler signed a nonaggression pact with the Soviet Union that gave him free rein to launch an invasion of Poland, which he did on September 1. France and Britain, honoring their agreements with Poland, declared war on Germany. Germany scored early victories, and in one of the most stunning campaigns of the 20th century, invaded and occupied France in June 1940. In 1941, Hitler turned on the Soviet Union.

Meeting in the Berlin suburb of Wannsee in 1942, the Nazi leadership formulated the implementation of the “final solution” to the “Jewish question,” the systematic extermination of millions of Jews. The mass murders of homosexuals, Gypsies, Communists, Slavs, and other “undesirables” were less systematic but also numbered in the millions.

Following Japan’s attack on Pearl Harbor, Germany declared war on the United States on December 11, 1941. But after defeats in north Africa in 1942 and at Stalingrad in 1943, the recurrent theme became one of Nazi retreat. The D-day landings along the coast of Normandy on June 6, 1944, began the steady advance of the Allied armies from the west, while Soviet armies relentlessly marched toward Berlin from the east. Hitler committed suicide in Berlin in April 1945. His country, along with much of Europe, lay in ruins.

Division of Germany

The Berlin Wall

At war’s end, Germany and its capital were divided. The nation shrank in size, losing long-held territories (among them East Prussia and Upper Silesia). The United States, Great Britain, France, and the Soviet Union divided the country into four zones of occupation. Berlin, in the heart of the Soviet district, was also divided among the four powers. In the late 1940s, the Soviet Union tried to cut off Allied access to Berlin, but a massive U.S.-sponsored airlift into the city thwarted the effort. In 1949, the Soviets established the German Democratic Republic (GDR). In response, the Federal Republic of Germany was established in the American, British, and French zones. In 1961, the GDR sealed off its borders and erected the Berlin Wall, a stark symbol of the Cold War.

Throughout the 1960s, the financial world buzzed with the talk of an economic miracle in Germany. Led by Ludwig Erhard, the economist, this miracle was called Wirtschaftswunder, and it saw West Germany rise to become the fourth-largest economy in the world.

This era of prosperity also saw the rise of a young German leader, Willy Brandt. Along with his Social-Liberal Coalition, Brandt, as chancellor, brought about long-overdue reform, an overhaul of education, and much improvement in industrial relations. His controversial Ostpolitik (Eastern Policy) improved relations with Soviet-dominated East Germany and other Communist countries to the east of Germany. His efforts in normalizing relations with the GDR brought Brandt the Nobel Prize of 1971.

The 1972 Summer Olympic Games were meant to show the entire world the bold new face of a radically rebuilt Munich. However, the terrorist attack on and murder of 11 Israeli athletes revived memories of the recent past.

Helmut Schmidt became chancellor in 1974, as West Germany continued to amaze the world with its economic muscle. Problems such as mounting unemployment remained, however, and in 1982, Helmut Kohl became the new German leader, pursuing welfare cuts, a tight-fisted money policy, and military cooperation with the U.S. The Kohl era saw the Green Party rise as a political force, with its goals of disarmament and protecting a fragile environment.

Fall of the Wall & Unification

The year 1989 was one of change and turmoil. In the wake of the collapse of Communist power across eastern Europe, the Berlin Wall also fell. The following year was perhaps the most significant in postwar German history. The two German nations announced economic unification in July, followed by total unification—with its thousands of inherent problems and headaches—on October 3, 1990. In 1991, Parliament voted to quit Bonn, seat of the West German government, and reestablish the once-mighty capital of Berlin.

After the first heady period of reunification, disillusionment set in, especially in eastern Germany, which was riddled with unemployment and unrealized expectations. Resentment against immigrant workers led to some violent neo-Nazi marches, bombings, and physical assaults. However, most Germans rose up to condemn the ultrarightists and the sporadic violence.

Psychological and emotional differences between the two zones were almost overwhelming, as were the vast disparities in industrial development. As the influential newspaper Frankfurter Rundschau editorialized, “The terms of east and west are not so much geographical expressions as they are descriptions of states of mind.”

Modern Germany

As the 21st century began, Germany, despite the enormous costs of reunification, remained an economic powerhouse in Europe. As a member of the European Union (E.U.), NATO, and the G8 group of the world’s industrial powers, Germany’s influence extends throughout Europe and across the globe.

Moving deeper into the 21st century, Berlin has become the center of the Continent. Of the three major European powers, including France and Great Britain, Germany appears to be the most dynamic. In fact, of all E.U. members, Germany most actively pursued the abandonment of national currencies, such as its own historic deutsche mark, and the adoption of the euro as the standard unit of currency for all E.U. countries. Other countries, such as Great Britain, though a member of the E.U., still hold back. German economists continue to hope that the adoption of a single currency for Europe will lead to prosperity for all in a future “United States of Europe.”

Homosexuals, once persecuted by the Nazis and sent to death camps along with Jews and Gypsies, moved significantly forward in postmillennium Germany. In 2001, in spite of fierce opposition from some conservatives, same-sex partners won legal status in Germany. The law, announced in Germany’s unofficial gay capital of Berlin, allows gay couples to register their unions at government offices and requires a court decision for divorce. Same-sex couples also receive the inheritance and health-insurance rights given married spouses.

In the aftermath of World War II, Germany had become an economic giant but remained a military midget. Because of its aggression in Hitler’s war, Germany appeared reluctant to make a strong show of military force anywhere in the world. But in 2001, Chancellor Gerhard Schröder announced a major change in military policy in which Germany would pursue a “more muscular policy.” He pronounced as “irrevocably passed” the day when Germany would be economically powerful but militarily passive. Schröder stated that now that Germany was reunited, it had to take on more responsibilities in the international community. As proof of his stated goal, Germany sent troops to aid the United States in its military strikes against terrorist bases in Taliban-controlled Afghanistan following the terrorist attacks against the United States on September 11, 2001.

But support for U.S. policies abruptly ended in 2003, when Chancellor Schröder took a stance against America’s war with Iraq. While this course proved politically rewarding in Germany, where most voters opposed U.S. involvement, it created a sharp rift with Washington, D.C., and irritated President George W. Bush. Schröder’s opposition to the war led to the lowest point in German-American relations since World War II. Since then, relations have been more cordial. In 2004 Schröder and Bush issued a joint statement on “The German-American Alliance for the 21st Century.” Schröder also attended the funeral of President Reagan as well as the 60th anniversary of the commemoration of the Allied D-day invasion of Normandy.

In a surprise development in 2005, conservative Angela Merkel became the first woman to govern modern Germany and the country’s first leader to grow up under communism in the Soviet-occupied East. Her conservatives finished just 1 percentage point ahead of Chancellor Gerhard Schröder’s center-left Social Democrats, with neither party getting a majority.

Merkel campaigned on pledges to shake up Germany’s highly regulated labor market and get the stagnant economy going again. She also promised to reinvigorate relations with the U.S. Merkel faced massive problems, including unemployment. Like the United States, the German economy remained strong but there were horrendous problems, including an economic slowdown. The financial burden of reunification has exerted a terrible price on Germany.

The new “First Man” of Germany, Merkel’s husband is mild-mannered chemistry professor Joachim Sauer, who likes to cook for friends and watch old Dustin Hoffman movies.

Although Germany in 2006 and early 2007 didn’t do anything earthshaking enough to discuss here, a significant historical event occurred in Luxembourg. An agreement was reached to open up millions of Nazi secret archives locked away since World War II. The vast archive has been hidden for decades in the German town of Bad Arolsen, but will in time become available to researchers.

An 11-nation International Commission has overseen the archives since the war. The files are available to Holocaust survivors and families of victims whose fate may not be clear. The files contain most of what the Nazis recorded on their death camps, including the prisoners held there, not only Jews but Gypsies and gay people, including “patients” subjected to cruel medical experiments.

In the fall of 2009, Chancellor Angela Merkel swept to victory with her conservative Christian Democrats in an alliance with the probusiness Free Democrats. Since then, her popularity has declined as Germany’s economy suffered under the global economic crisis. The nation as a whole is on the gloomy side, since the country’s money formed a significant part of the bailout for Greece in 2010.

Art & Architecture

Germany’s art ranges from medieval carved wood statues to Dürer prints to expressionist paintings, its architecture from Gothic cathedrals and riotous baroque chapels to neoclassical temples and Bauhaus buildings. This overview should help you make sense of it all.

German Art

Romanesque (11th–12th c.)

Artistic expression in early medieval Germany was largely church related. Because Mass was said in Latin, the illiterate masses had to learn Bible lessons via bas reliefs (sculptures that project slightly from a flat surface) and wall paintings, which told key tales to inspire faith in God and fear of sin.

The best examples of this period include scraps of surviving Romanesque sculpture on the 11th-century, carved wood doors at Cologne’s St. Maria im Kapitol, Augsburg’s Dom St. Maria, and the intricate The Shrine of the Magi reliquary (1182–1220) in Kölner Dom (Cologne Cathedral; ).

Gothic (13th–15th c.)

Late medieval German art continued to be largely ecclesiastical, including stained glass, church facades, and massive wooden altarpieces festooned with statues and carvings. In Gothic painting and sculpture, figures tended to be more natural looking than in the Romanesque, but remained highly stylized.

The best examples and artists include stained glass in Ulm Münster, Rothenburg’s St. Jakobskirche, and Cologne’s St. Gereon’s Sacristy. Stephan Lochner (active 1400–51) was the premier artist of the School of Cologne, where he painted the Cologne Cathedral’s Altar of the City Patrons (ca. 1440; ) and the Wallraf-Richartz Museum’s Madonna in the Rose Garden (1450; ). Bamberger Reiter is an anonymous equestrian statue in Bamberg’s Kaiserdom, a masterpiece of 13th-century sculpture. Tilman Riemenschneider (1460–1531) was Germany’s genius Gothic woodcarver of languid figures draped in flowing, folded robes. Some of his best works remain in Würzburg, including statues in the Mainfränkisches Museum.

Renaissance (Late 15th to 16th c.)

The German Renaissance masters, striving for greater naturalism, included the greatest of them all, Albrecht Dürer (1471–1528). A genius painter, superb illustrator, and one of the greatest draftsmen ever, Dürer was the most important Renaissance artist outside Italy. His art matched the scientific and geometric precepts of the Florentine Renaissance with a command of color learned in Venice, a Flemish eye for meticulous detail, and the emotional sensibility of the German Gothic. He was the first to paint stand-alone self-portraits (including one in Munich’s Alte Pinakothek; ), as well as watercolors and gouaches for their own sake rather than merely as sketches. His paintings grace Berlin’s Gemäldegalerie and the Germanisches Nationalmuseum in his native Nürnberg. Also see the box.

Lucas Cranach the Elder (1472–1553) melded Renaissance sensibilities with a still somewhat primitive, medieval look. As a young artist in Vienna, he helped popularize landscape painting as a member of the Danube School (Rest on the Flight into Egypt [1504] in Berlin’s Gemäldegalerie; ) and invented the full-length portrait (Duke of Saxony [1514] and The Duchess [1514] in Dresden’s Gemäldegalerie Alte Meister, in the Zwinger complex; ). Hans Holbein the Younger (1497–1543) was second only to Dürer in the German Renaissance, and one of the greatest portraitists ever. Germany preserves precious little of his work, but you can see the Portrait of Georg Gisze (1532) in Berlin’s Gemäldegalerie and a Nativity in the Freiburg Cathedral.

Baroque & Rococo (16th–18th c.)

The baroque is more theatrical and decorative than the Renaissance, mixing a kind of superrealism based on the use of peasant models and the exaggerated chiaroscuro (“light and dark”) of Italy’s Caravaggio with compositional complexity and explosions of dynamic fury, movement, color, and figures. Rococo is this later baroque art gone awry, frothy and chaotic. Artists from this period include Andreas Schlüter (1660–1714), whose sculptures can now be found at Berlin’s Schloss Charlottenburg. Balthazar Permoser (1651–1732) was court sculptor at Dresden. His stone pulpit stands in Katholische Hofkirche, his sculptures in the Zwinger.

Romantic (19th c.)

The paintings of the Romantics were heroic, historic, dramatic, and beautiful in contrast to the classically minded Renaissance artists or the overly exuberant baroque artists. Adam Elsheimer (1578–1610) created tiny paintings that bridged the gap from late Renaissance Mannerism (a style characterized by twisting figures in exaggerated positions), through baroque, to proto-Romantic. His Flight into Egypt (1609) resides in Munich’s Alte Pinakothek. Caspar David Friedrich (1774–1840) was the greatest of the German Romantics. Dresden’s Gemäldegalerie Alte Meister in the Zwinger complex houses his famous Cross in the Mountains (1808).

Early 20th Century

Until Hitler, Germany was one of Europe’s hotbeds of artistic activity. But the Nazis outlawed and confiscated what they called “degenerate” modern art. Almost all the artists listed below are represented at Cologne’s Museum Ludwig, save Höch and Grosz, whom you can find at Berlin’s Neue Nationalgalerie. At least one artist from every movement is at Stuttgart’s Staatsgalerie, and there are also good modern collections at Düsseldorf’s Kunstsammlung Nordrhein-Westfalen and Dresden’s Albertinum. Munich’s Pinakothek der Moderne is strong on expressionist artists.

The major artists and movements of the early 20th century include expressionism, which abandoned realism and embraced, to varying degrees, exaggeration, visible artistry (thick paint, obvious brush strokes, and strong colors) and, most important, abstraction—all to try to “express” the emotions or philosophy of the artist himself. Pure expressionism fell into two main groups, especially Die Brücke, founded in 1905 Dresden, which sought inspiration in folk art, medieval examples, and “unspoiled” landscapes. Its greatest members were Ernst Kirchner (1880–1938) and Karl Schmidt-Rottluff (1884–1976), though Impressionist Emil Nolde (1867–1956) also later joined for a while. They have their own Brücke Museum in Berlin. The second movement was Der Blaue Reiter group, set up in Munich in 1911 by Russian-born Wassily Kandinsky (1866–1944), Franz Marc (1880–1916), and August Macke (1887–1914) to oppose the cultural insularity and antimodern stance of Die Brücke. The “Blue Riders” embraced international elements, modern abstraction techniques, and bright, vibrant color schemes to seek an emotional, visceral intensity in their work. Determined critics of the horrors of World War I, Dadaists were by turns abstract, nihilistic (inviting gallery visitors to help destroy the art), and just generally anti-art (many made random collages of found materials). Its proponents included Hannah Höch (1889–1978), who collaged photographs and magazine cutouts to make social statements; George Grosz (1893–1959), who was more strictly a painter, and later moved on to the Neue Sachlichkeit movement (below); and Kurt Schwitters (1887–1948), who eventually started his own splinter group called “Merz,” which experimented with abstract and Russian constructivist elements.

Both Max Ernst (1891–1976) and Alsatian Jean “Hans” Arp (1887–1966) started as Blaue Reiter expressionists and, after their Dada collage period, ended up in Paris as surrealists (Ernst as a painter, Arp as a sculptor and painter of amorphous shapes).

Neue Sachlichkeit (New Objectivity) was a 1920s Berlin movement opposed to the abstraction of the expressionists. Their caricature-filled art was painted in harsh colors and focused on even harsher subjects such as sex and violence. Proponents included Otto Dix (1891–1969), who started as an expressionist but quickly became one of the most scathing and disturbing New Objectivity painters; George Grosz (see above); and Max Beckmann (1884–1950), who also was originally an expressionist.

Post–World War II Art

Germany hasn’t had any one style or school to define its art since World War II, though terms such as neoexpressionism (an antiabstract, antiminimalist, anticonceptual trend that grounds itself more in tradition and figurative art) are often bandied about. There have been, however, several important artists. All three listed below are represented in Stuttgart’s Staatsgalerie and Bonn’s Kunstmuseum. Notable post–World War II artists include Josef Beuys (1921–86), an iconoclast and nonconformist who made constructivist sculpture from trash; Anselm Kiefer (b. 1945), who made a return to huge, mixed-media figurative art, often with a strong historical bent; and Georg Baselitz (b. 1938), a figurative painter—and a sculptor, since the 1980s—a neoexpressionist with a penchant for portraying people upside down.

Architecture

Romanesque (10th–13th c.)

Romanesque architects concentrated on building large churches with wide aisles to accommodate the masses. Identifiable features include rounded arches, thick walls, small windows, huge piers, tall towers, dual chancels, and blind arcades.

The best examples include Mainz’s Dom, which looks more like a castle fortress than a church; Worms’s Dom St. Peter, with a dual-chancel arrangement and two imposing facades; and Speyer’s Kaiserdom, the largest cathedral in Germany, a four-towered Romanesque basilica with dwarf galleries and blind arcades.

Church floor plan

Dom, Mainz

Gothic (13th–16th c.)

Ceilings began to soar with Gothic architects, walls became thinner, and windows—often stained glass—proliferated. On the exterior, graceful buttresses and soaring spires rose over a town. Pointed arches, it was discovered, carried more weight than rounded ones. Other features included cross vaulting, a facade flanked by two towers, flying buttresses, spires, gargoyles, and delicate tracery.

Cross vault

Cross section of a Gothic church

The best examples of Gothic include Cologne Cathedral, Germany’s finest, at once massive and graceful; Freiburg Cathedral, built almost entirely during the Middle Ages; and Ulm Münster, second in size only to Cologne’s cathedral. Ulm’s Münster sports the world’s tallest spire—though it did take 500 years to complete. The best-preserved town centers with Gothic-style houses and buildings include Rothenburg ob der Tauber, Goslar, Regensburg, and Tübingen.

Cologne Cathedral

Renaissance (Late 15th Through Mid–17th c.)

Germany was so busy with the Reformation that the country had little time for the Renaissance, which really had an effect only in southern Germany (transalpine influences from Italy) and a few isolated examples in the far north (influences from Flemish and Dutch neighbors). Other than a close eye to the Renaissance ideals of proportion, symmetry, and the classical orders (distinguished by the use of three column capitals: Corinthian, Ionic, and Doric), little specifically identifies Italianate Renaissance buildings.

Classical orders

Weser Renaissance was a late-16th- and early-17th-century style prevalent in Lower Saxony, distinguishable on houses by pinnacled gables (the triangular upper portion of a wall at the end of a pitched roof), heavy scrollwork, elaborate dormers (an upright window projecting from a sloping roof), rounded pediments (a low-pitched feature above a window, door, or pavilion), and decorative stone bands.

Celle is the best preserved town center in the Weser Renaissance style, including its moated Herzogschloss. The Pied Piper town of Hameln has several fine Weser Renaissance houses, including the Rattenfängerhaus, Hochzeitshaus, and Dempterscheshaus. The only solidly Renaissance church in Germany is Michaelskirche in Munich, built 1583 to 1597 by Jesuits to resemble their church in Rome.

Baroque & Rococo (17th–18th c.)

With a seamless meshing of architecture and art, the German baroque flourished in the south and in Lower Saxony. Germany’s brand of over-the-top, baroque chaos worked better perhaps than in any other country. Whereas rococo is usually used as a derogatory term for the baroque gone awry into the grotesque, in Germany the rococo actually succeeds (sometimes). Baroque lines follow a complex geometry and interplay of concave and convex surfaces. The overall effect is to lighten the appearance of structures and add movement of line and vibrancy to the static look of the Renaissance.

The best example of a baroque palace is the Residenz in Würzburg (1720–44; ), designed by Balthasar Neumann, including a monumental staircase under the world’s largest ceiling fresco by the Italian master Tiepolo. Friedrich the Great’s Sanssouci Palace at Potsdam (1744–1860) is one of Europe’s best examples of the rococo.

Jean François de Cuvilliés (1698–1767), a French dwarf, was originally the elector of Bavaria’s court jester until his talent for architecture was recognized. After schooling in France, he returned to Munich to craft its greatest rococo monuments, including the jewel box of the Residenz’s Altes Residenztheater, which now bears his name, and the facade of the baroque Theatinerkirche. His masterpiece is Schloss Nymphenburg’s Amalienburg hunting lodge, which became a model for palaces across Europe.

Amalienburg, Schloss Nymphenburg

Neoclassicism & Romantic (Mid–18th Through 19th c.)

As a backlash against the excesses of the baroque and rococo, by the middle of the 18th century architects began turning to the austere simplicity and grandeur of the classical age and inaugurated the neoclassical style. Their work was inspired by the rediscovery of Pompeii and other ancient sites. However, many of their interiors continued to be rococo, though more muted than before. The sterility of German neoclassicism didn’t last long, however, and the 19th century left the increasing nationalist German society looking into its own past for inspiration, kicking off the neo-Gothic Romantic Movement.

The Prussians remade Berlin in a neoclassical image, starting with the Brandenburger Tor and moving on to the buildings of Karl Friedrich Schinkel (1781–1841), among which Altes Museum, Schloss Charlottenhof, and Nikolaikirche are his best. There’s a museum devoted to him called the Friedrichswerdersche Kirche–Schinkelmuseum. In Munich, Ludwig I had Leo von Klenze lay out neoclassical structures across his “new Athens,” including those surrounding Königsplatz and the nearby Alte and Neue pinakotheks. Caught up in Wagner’s dramatic operas set in the heroic Middle Ages, “Mad” King Ludwig II was the ultimate Romantic, building for himself a series of faux medieval fairy-tale castles, including Herrenchiemsee’s Neues Schloss and the incomparable fantasy of Neuschwanstein Castle, a festival of banner-fluttering towers and battlements right out of a Brothers Grimm folk tale, its entire setting chosen solely for its picture-postcard perfection.

Neuschwanstein

20th-Century Architecture

Germany’s take on the early-20th-century Art Nouveau movement was called Jugendstil. The Bauhaus was a 1920s avant-garde school of architecture led by Walter Gropius (1883–1969) that combined industrial-age architecture with art and craft to create functional buildings and furnishings. Among its chief designers and institute teachers were Marcel Breuer, Wassily Kandinsky, Oskar Schlemmer, and Paul Klee. The Nazis closed the school in 1933, though it was reborn in Chicago. Jugendstil houses and hotels exist across Germany, but the movement took its name from Jugend magazine published in the Schwabing district of Munich, where many buildings in the style survive. Munich is also home to the Jugendstil Museum in the Stuck-Villa, a hybrid neoclassical/Jugendstil structure. Bauhaus structures, too, pepper Germany in unobtrusive ways, often in city outskirts. One fine example is Berlin’s Die Siemensstadt, the first modern housing complex, built with long “slab” blocks by Walter Gropius. Berlin also has the Bauhaus-Archiv Museum für Gestaltung, devoted to Bauhaus drawings, photographs, and some design examples.

Siemensstadt

Germany in Pop Culture

Books

Biography

Taylor, A. J. P. Bismarck: The Man and the Statesman (1967). This is the story of the “Iron Chancellor,” who was instrumental in unifying the German states into the German Empire.

Trevor-Roper, Hugh. The Last Days of Hitler (1986). This is an insightful reconstruction of the twilight of the Third Reich.

Fiction

Goethe, Johann Wolfgang von. The Sorrows of Young Werther (1990). This is required reading for every German schoolchild. Goethe explored the theme of suicide in this early epistolary novella.

Grass, Günter. Dog Years (1989), The Tin Drum (1990), and The Flounder (1989). Grass’s works deal with the German psyche coming to terms with the dreadful legacy of Nazism and World War II.

Isherwood, Christopher. The Berlin Stories (1954). Isherwood lived in Berlin from 1929 to 1933. His most famous story was “Good-Bye to Berlin,” which became the source of the stage and film versions of Cabaret.

Mann, Thomas. The Magic Mountain (1969). This is Mann’s most celebrated masterpiece.

Remarque, Erich Maria. All Quiet on the Western Front (1987). This is a classic novel of World War I.

Folklore & Legends

Grimm, Jacob, and Wilhelm Grimm. Complete Grimm Tales. This is the world’s most famous collection of folk tales, with a cast of characters that includes everybody from Little Red Riding Hood to Tom Thumb.

The Nibelungenlied. Every school kid in Germany reads this great epic poem, which details the exploits of Siegfried and Kriemhild and the fall of the Burgundians. The Nibelungenlied is characterized by the violence of its emotions and its uncompromising emphasis on vengeance.

History

Beevor, Antony. The Fall of Berlin 1945 (2002). This is one of the most vivid accounts ever written of the Red Army’s assault on Berlin.

Large, David Clay. Berlin (2000). In this controversial and caustic survey of Berlin since 1871, the author claims that “no other place has so dramatically encapsulated the highs and lows of our modern human experience” as Berlin.

Schneider, Peter. The German Comedy: Scenes of Life after the Wall, translated by Leigh Hafrey and Philip Boehm (1992). Comic absurdities surrounding the collapse of the Wall fill this book, but Schneider (author of The Wall Jumper) also explores resurgent anti-Semitism and how West Germans are coping with the flood of refugees from the former East Germany.

Shirer, William L. The Rise and Fall of the Third Reich: A History of Nazi Germany (1959–60). This story has never been told better—the complete saga of Hitler’s empire from beginning to end.

Taylor, Frederick. Dresden: Tuesday, February 13, 1945 (2004). This book takes a new look at the destruction of Dresden by Allied bombings, which was more famously brought home in Kurt Vonnegut’s 1969 novel Slaughterhouse Five. A British historian, Taylor debunks the theory that Dresden contributed little toward the Nazi war effort, but was “one of the foremost industrial locations of the Reich.”

Travel

Twain, Mark. A Tramp Abroad (1989). The American humorist’s travels through Germany are comically detailed here. Read also his comments on “The Awful German Language.”

German literature: From Gutenberg to Grass

Even before Gutenberg invented the first printing press in the Western world in the 15th century, German literature—both oral and written—was being produced. The first written literary work known is The Lay of Hildebrand, a narrative poem handed down by ancient storytellers and copied by monks at the Benedictine Abbey at Fulda. Such tales of valor, love, sorrow, and death were strong in oral tradition, with the Rhine valley giving rise to many legends and songs through the centuries, Lohengrin, Roland, the Lorelei, and the Nibelungen being among the subjects.

The age of chivalry gave birth to lyric poetry in Germany. Like the troubadours in France, Minnesingers of the Holy Roman Empire roamed the land singing songs of love and derring-do inspired by the Crusades. One of these, Walter von der Vogelweide, a knight of the late 12th and early 13th centuries, is seen as the father of lyric poetry in Germany. Another early-13th-century poet of note was Wolfram von Eschenbach, whose epic, Parsifal, glorifies chivalry and religious devotion. By the 16th century, another “hero” had joined German folklore and literature—Til Eulenspiegel, a clownish fellow whose life around 1300 became the subject of story and song.

From the time of the Reformation (16th c.), Martin Luther’s influence can be traced in many fields of the German life of the mind and spirit. His translation of the Bible into modern German was hailed as the first great literary work in the language. A Luther contemporary, Hans Sachs, a Meistersinger (a “master singer” who carried on the traditions of the earlier Minnesingers), was a prolific author of stories, poems, plays, and songs.

Publications of a picaresque novel, Simplicissimus, by Grimmelshausen (17th c.), marked the start of production of long prose narratives in the country. The Age of Enlightenment in German literature dawned in the late 17th century, inaugurated by Klopstock in his epic, Der Messias, and his Odes, and it continued into the 18th century. Rationalization was the watchword in this Enlightenment period, or Aufklärung. Much writing was in the form of philosophical treatises (for example, the works of Leibniz and Kant). Also in this era, the principles of German drama were laid out by Lessing.

As a reaction to rationalization, a literary movement known as Sturm und Drang was born in the 18th century, marked especially by poetry and drama extolling both sentiment and grand passions and rejecting previous social, political, moral, and literary authority.

In this time, when ideas of storm and stress dominated the literati, Johann Wolfgang von Goethe arrived on the scene, a giant of letters. Dramatist, novelist, philosopher, and Germany’s greatest poet, Goethe followed the pattern of the times in youth and early manhood (the Urfaust or Early Faust, Egmont, and The Sorrows of Young Werther). However, he soon became disenchanted with Sturm und Drang, turning in midlife after a stay in Italy to a classical mode (Nausikaa). During this period, he reworked Faust so that the final product begins with storm and stress and then levels off into tranquil classicism. It was after his sojourn in Italy that he also produced Wilhelm Meisters Lehrjahre, a novel that served for decades as the prototype of the best German fiction.

Another literary immortal, Johann Friedrich Schiller, playwright and poet, a contemporary and friend of Goethe, also turned away from Sturm und Drang after presentation of Don Carlos, a powerful historical drama honoring liberty. Similar dramas were Wallenstein and Wilhelm Tell. Schiller’s outlook placed his interests in the fields of history and philosophy.

Besides these two masters of the literary world, which soon moved on from classicism to romanticism to historical romanticism, such names of world note as the brothers Jakob and Wilhelm Grimm, famous for their collection of fairy tales, folk tales, and myths, and Heinrich Heine appeared. Many of the works of Heine, second only to Goethe as Germany’s greatest poet, have become folk songs.

A poet who became known for his work in the first quarter of the 20th century was Rainer Maria Rilke. Another German, the novelist Erich Maria Remarque (All Quiet on the Western Front), moved to the United States to escape the political conditions of his homeland. Franz Kafka became known for his novels of the absurd. Bertolt Brecht (The Threepenny Opera and Mother Courage) chose to live in East Germany after World War II.

In 1959 Gunther Grass burst onto the scene with his extraordinary first novel, Blechtrommel (The Tin Drum). He became a spokesman for the German generation that grew up in the Nazi era and received the Nobel Prize in literature in 1999 as a poet, novelist, and playwright.

Other Germans who won the Nobel Prize for literature:

• Theodor Mommsen, 1902, philosopher

• Paul J. L. Heyse, 1910, novelist, dramatist, and poet

• Gerhart J. R. Hauptmann, 1912, dramatist

• Thomas Mann, 1929, novelist

• Hermann Hesse, 1946, novelist

• Heinrich Böll, 1972, novelist

The influence of German thought on the Western mind has been powerful, from as far back as the 13th century when Albertus Magnus became known as a scholastic philosopher, naturalist, and theologian. Through the centuries, other notable philosophers have been Kant, Moses Mendelssohn, Schopenhauer, Hegel, Marx, Engels, and Nietzsche (Thus Spake Zarathustra).

Music

Music is an important and pervasive facet of German life. German disunity over the centuries actually helped foster German music. The many small principalities and bishoprics that split up the German-speaking world meant that there were many courts to offer opportunities to musicians, both composers and instrumentalists. As a result, the German-speaking nations produced more composers of indisputable greatness than any other.

Today, the musical scene in Germany is as vibrant as ever. Every major city has an opera house and an orchestra, many of them world renowned. New composers are encouraged, and productions are often at the cutting edge.

Men (and Women) of Note: Germany’s Rich Musical History

by Donald Olson

Some of the greatest works of Western music have been written by German composers. The roster includes Bach, Handel, Beethoven, Brahms, Mendelssohn, Schumann, and Wagner, as well as 20th-century greats Alban Berg and Kurt Weill. The country’s rich musical history dates back to 12th-century Minnesängers (troubadours) and religious chants. Over the centuries, Germany’s musical traditions were fostered in convents, monasteries and churches where composers were hired to write sacred songs, cantatas and oratorios. Eventually, as opera houses and concert halls became a fixture in German cities, a wider public clamored for musical performances. Classical music remains an important part of German culture today and can be enjoyed in concert halls and opera houses throughout the country.

Hildegard of Bingen (1098-1179) Known as Saint Hildegard, this Benedictine abbess was revered in her day as an author, visionary, herbalist, poet, and composer. Over 70 of her compositions have survived, one of the largest repertoires among medieval composers. Hildegard’s music is monophonic, consisting of only one melodic line, but her soaring melodies go well beyond the range of medieval chant.

Johann Sebastian Bach (1685-1750) After stints as a violinist, an organist, and Kapellmeister, Bach arrived in Leipzig in 1723 and stayed for the rest of his life, writing more than 200 cantatas, the Passion According to St. Matthew, and the Mass in B Minor. He was prolific in other ways as well, fathering 17 children. Every June, Leipzig celebrates Bach’s musical legacy with the famous Bachfest (www.bach-leipzig.de), during which Bach’s works are performed in the Thomaskirche, where he is buried.

Ludwig van Beethoven (1770-1827) Beethoven brought emotional depth and new tone colors to music in the transitional period between the Classical (Bach) and Romantic (Brahms) eras. He began his career by composing and performing piano concertos, and he continued to compose (9 symphonies, the opera Fidelio) even when his hearing began to deteriorate in the late 1790s. By the time his monumental Ninth Symphony was premiered in 1824, Beethoven was so deaf that he had to be turned around to see the tumultuous applause of the audience. Music lovers can visit his birthplace, the Beethoven House Museum, in Bonn.

Johannes Brahms (1833-1897) Like Beethoven, Brahms was a composer and virtuoso pianist who performed many of his own works. He composed for piano, chamber ensembles, symphony orchestra, and for voice and chorus. The structure of Brahms’s music is rooted in the traditions of Baroque and Classical composition, but he developed musical themes in a way pioneered by Beethoven, creating bold new harmonies and melodies. Brahms’s glory years as a composer were between 1868, when he premiered A German Requiem, his largest choral work, and 1885, by which time he had composed his four symphonies and the Piano Concerto No. 2. In 1889, Brahms made an experimental recording of his first Hungarian dance on the piano, the earliest recording made by a major composer.

Richard Wagner (1813-1883) Known primarily for his operas, Wagner pioneered advances in musical language that greatly influenced the development of European classical music. His life was tumultuous, requiring periodic flights to escape creditors. It was while in exile from Germany that Wagner completed his four-act Ring cyle, the opera Tristan and Isolde, and developed his revolutionary vision of operas as Gesamtkunstwerk, or “total artwork”, a fusion of music, song, dance, poetry, visual arts, and stagecraft. His fortunes brightened when Ludwig II, king of Bavaria, became Wagner’s patron., Wagner built the Festspielhaus in Bayreuth, a theater where his operas—and only his—would be performed. He is buried in the garden at Villa Wahnfriend in Bayreuth.

Kurt Weill (1900-1950) Although he was classically trained and had some success with his works for the concert hall, it was Weill’s musical-theatre songs that became popular in Germany in the late 1920s and early 1930s. His best-known work, The Threepenny Opera, was written in 1928 in collaboration with the German playwright Bertolt Brecht contained his most famous song, “Mack the Knife.” As a prominent Jewish composer, Weill became a target of the Nazis and was forced to flee Germany in 1933.

A History of German Music

Baroque Music The greatest composer of the baroque era was Johann Sebastian Bach (1685–1750), who was a supreme master of all musical forms of his time. Bach produced many church cantatas, especially for St. Thomas Church in Leipzig, where he served as cantor. His compositions were technically outstanding, vigorous, and profound. Little of his music was published during his lifetime, but after his death, his influence steadily grew, especially that of his organ works. The musical tradition in his large family was maintained by two of his talented sons, Carl Philipp Emanuel Bach (1714–88) and Johann Christian Bach (1735–82). The Brandenburg Concertos are highly recommended.

Bach’s contemporary George Frideric Handel (1685–1759) was another great composer. He first rose to prominence as musician of the court of Hannover, a post that he left to become composer at the court of St. James of England. He was a leading composer of operas and instrumental music for the court. Listen to his oratorio, Messiah.

The Classical Period Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart (1756–91), although an Austrian, cannot be omitted from any discussion of German music. His operas, with their contemporary themes and lively musical characterizations, paved the way for later composers. Franz Joseph Haydn (1732–1809), another Austrian, also exerted great influence on German music, especially instrumental music. Listen to Mozart’s The Marriage of Figaro and Don Giovanni and Haydn’s “Drum Roll” Symphony no. 103.

The 19th Century & Romanticism The 19th century was rich in musical genius. Ludwig van Beethoven (1770–1827) ushered in romanticism. His works included symphonies, piano concertos, piano sonatas, quartets, and many others. He greatly expanded and developed the orchestra. Tragically, he completely lost his hearing in 1819. However, the chamber music he wrote after this event shows an even greater depth and complexity than his previous compositions. Listen to symphonies no. 5 and no. 9.

Other great composers of the era include Franz Schubert (1797–1828), Felix Mendelssohn (1809–47), Robert Schumann (1810–56), and Johannes Brahms (1833–97). Listen to Schubert’s Lieder, Mendelssohn’s “Overture” to A Midsummer Night’s Dream, Schumann’s Symphony no. 3, and Brahms’s German Requiem.

The giant of the 19th-century opera world was Richard Wagner (1813–83). His theories of musical drama exerted a tremendous influence on everyone who followed him, even his detractors. His influence can best be heard in the music of the later Romantic composer Richard Strauss (1864–1949), whose operas carry Wagner’s ideas of character development to greater psychological depth. Listen to Wagner’s The Ring of the Nibelungs and Strauss’s Salome.

The 20th Century Musical experimentation flourished in early-20th-century Germany. Austrian-born Arnold Schönberg (1874–1951) developed the 12-tone system of musical structure. Kurt Weill (1900–50) and Paul Hindemith (1895–1963) tried to reach a more popular audience. During the Nazi era, many composers fled Germany. Others, like Hans Pfitzner (1869–1949) and Strauss, remained in an uneasy relationship with the Nazis. Listen to Schönberg’s Five Pieces for Orchestra, Weill’s Threepenny Opera, and Hindemith’s Mathis der Maler. The music of Pfitzner is still heard in such operas as Palestrina from 1917 and Das Herz from 1931. The compositions of Strauss are among the most frequently played around the globe, especially his operas such as Salome (1905) and Elektra (1909).

More recently, major composers such as Karlheinz Stockhausen (1928–2007) and Hans Werner Henze (b. 1926) have brought the traditions of Germany’s musical past into the present. Listen to Stockhausen’s Gesang der Jünglinge (Song of the Youths). Henze has won cultural awards around the world for such compositions as The English Cat in 1980 and La Cubana in 1973.

Beyond Baroque: The Modern German music Scene

Modern German music tastes are heavily influenced by the American or British pop worlds, but many German musicians have created their own Teutonic sounds, notably the amusingly named “Krautrock.” Kraut, of course, was originally an ethnic slur used by American GIs to refer to Nazi soldiers. One critic defined Krautrock “as a mix of Anglo-American post-psychedelic jamming and moody progressive rock.” Its stars were the band Can, often compared to the Velvet Underground, and the band Faust, which became one of the first acts to sign with Richard Branson’s Virgin Records.

Crossing international boundaries is the German industrial metal band Rammstein, which nonetheless performs almost exclusively in German. The group is known for its rock hit “Du Hast.” Rammstein is also controversial—a liquid-ejecting dildo earned them a night in a Massachusetts jail. Rammstein band members much admire the music of Nina Hagen, who often leads protests concerning issues such as the war in Iraq. She headlined the Drop Dead Festival in New York City in 2005.

Neue Deutsche Welle (New German wave) was a form of punk rock and new wave music that rose in the mid-’70s. Out of this movement came a German band from Berlin, Wir Sind Helden (We Are Heroes), which has achieved great success, including sold-out concerts in London, with non-English lyrics.

Punk music became popular in the 1970s in the wake of the success of British bands like the Sex Pistols, who developed a devoted following in West Germany. After reunification, many punk bands such as Slime rose to rant against politicians who ignore the dangers of neo-Nazis in Germany. The late ’70s also saw the rise of Goth rock, with strong ties to the English punk rock scene. Since the turn of the millennium, Goth rock has declined in popularity but still flourishes in pockets.

German hip-hop entered the mainstream only in the early ’90s, bringing with it graffiti and break dancing. The controversial and mysterious Berlin rapper Sido released Maske, a debut album in 2004, which was hailed as the first real German hip-hop music. His most recent releases are the 2008 album Ich und meine Maske (Me and My Mask) and the 2009 album Aggro Berlin.

Film

German cinema came into its own in the aftermath of World War I, although it actually began in 1895, when the brothers Skladanowsky presented their Bioscop in the Wintergarten at Berlin. Early German film not only has earned a place in cinema history, but also has been enormously influential in both Europe and the United States. Das Cabinet des Dr. Caligari (The Cabinet of Dr. Caligari), directed by Dr. Robert Wiene and released in Berlin in 1920, was hailed as “the first work of art on the screen.” After viewing the film, the French coined the term Caligarisme to describe the “all upside-down” postwar world.

The 1920s saw the production of many notable German films, such as Fritz Lang’s Dr. Mabuse, der Spieler (Dr. Mabuse, the Gambler), a 1922 screen version of a novel by Norbert Jacques. In 1924, Lang achieved great popular success with his two Nibelungen films, which became classics. The influence of Lang’s science fiction film Metropolis (1927) can still be seen today, and his Spione (The Spy) became the forerunner of the Hitchcock thrillers. Carl Mayer achieved renown for his scripts, which were called “screen poems.” These include the expressionist 1920 film Genuine and 1924s Der Letzte Mann (The Last Laugh). Mayer is said to have “unchained” the camera.

In the late 1920s, Hollywood began drawing away Germany’s brightest stars, including directors Ernst Lubitsch and F. W. Murnau (Faust, 1926) and stars such as Conrad Veidt and Emil Jannings. As the worldwide recession hit Germany, film production suffered further. The most notable film to come out of this troubled period was Der Blaue Engel (The Blue Angel), released in 1930. It starred Emil Jannings and brought world acclaim to its female lead, Marlene Dietrich, who later found even greater glory in Hollywood.

When the Nazis came to power, German films became propaganda tools. Nazi films reached the zenith of their power in Leni Riefenstahl’s 1934 Triumph des Willens (Triumph of the Will), acclaimed for its cinematic techniques in spite of its glorification of Nazism. She went on to make Olympia, her classic account of the 1936 Berlin Olympics. Her innovative camera angles and close-ups of the athletes in action were brilliant, and the films won her both praise and condemnation.

In the first decades after World War II, the German film industry was not very creative. By the 1970s, however, a group of talented directors was emerging, including Rainer Werner Fassbinder, Werner Herzog, Wim Wenders, and Volker Schlöndorff.

Currently, there are few screen giants in Germany. The Berlin Film Festival often honors golden oldies, such as Pandora’s Box, by G. W. Pabst, starring American Louise Brooks. Many Pabst films have been restored and reconstructed. Pabst’s critical treatment of social issues earned him the sobriquet “The Red Pabst” during the Weimar Republic. Franz Seitz is often honored for producing some 80 films during his career, including 1979’s The Tin Drum.

The 1981 story of a doomed Nazi submarine, Das Boot (The Boat) still holds the record for the most Academy Award nominations for a German film, a total of six. The 1990 film Das schreckliche Mädchen (The Nasty Girl) tells the often shocking story of what a Bavarian high-school student uncovers when she sets out to investigate the Nazi past of her hometown. Michael Verhoeven’s picture was nominated for an Oscar as best foreign film. The movie is said to have been based on true-life experiences of a young woman. The German hometown in the film is actually Passau, covered later in this guide. Hitler once resided in Passau.

In 2006, Das Leben der Anderen (The Lives of Others) won an Academy Award as best foreign-language film. The film documented how Stasi (the East German secret police) spied on the lives of its citizens. In 2007, Die Fälscher (The Counterfeiters) also won an Oscar as best foreign-language film. Shot in Berlin, this Austro-German production told the story of how forgers were assigned the job of producing massive amounts of fake U.S. dollars and British pounds in an effort by the Nazi regime to weaken the Allied economy.

Modern films continue to offer us a glimpse of contemporary German life and culture as well. Most of these are available in the U.S. either dubbed or translated into English. Tom Tykwer’s Lola Rennt (1998) remains one of our favorites. It was called Run Lola Run in its English release. Starring Franka Potenta as Lola, the film has been called iconic of a reunified Germany. The plot involves a young woman who has 20 minutes to find and bring 100,000 German marks to her boyfriend before he robs a supermarket. The action is riveting, the soundtrack dynamic.

In Der Krieger und die Kaiserin (The Princess and the Warrior), director Tykwer is reunited with Potenta. First released in 2000, the film follows the travails of Sissi, who works in a psychiatric hospital. She becomes involved with a tormented ex-soldier who stages a bank robbery. A near-death experience throws Sissi’s life into chaos.

One of the freshest post-reunification films is Wolfgang Becker’s 2003 comedy Goodbye, Lenin!, set in East Germany in 1989. A young man, to protect his fragile mother from a fatal shock after a long coma, tries to prevent her from learning that her beloved East Germany has disappeared.

Eating & Drinking

Though traditional dishes like dumplings, Wurst (sausages), pastries, and beer may make Germany seem the worst possible place to eat healthfully, in reality, restaurants are offering foreign foods and neue Küche (modern cuisine). Chefs trained in Switzerland, France, or Italy return to Germany to open Continental restaurants, and Italians and Turks, many of whom originally came to Germany as “guest workers,” own restaurants featuring their own culinary traditions.

Regional Specialties

• Bavaria & Franconia: In southern Germany, you can feast on such hearty fare as Leberkäs (a chilled mold of minced pork, beef, and liver), Knödel (dumplings or soaked bread), Haxen (pork or veal trotters, most often consumed with Sauerkraut), Rostbratwürste (small finger sausages), and Leberknödel (large liver dumplings in a clear broth). Schweinwurst mit Kraut (pork sausages with Sauerkraut) is another unforgettable local dish.

• Lower Saxony & Schleswig-Holstein: Here in northwest Germany, with its maritime tradition, a typical local dish is Aalsuppe—sweet-and-sour eel soup flavored with bacon, vegetables, and sometimes even pears and prunes (or perhaps other fruits). The sailor’s favorite is Labskaus, a ground-together medley of pork, salt herring, and beef, along with potatoes and beets. The traditional topping is a fried egg and a side dish of cucumbers. Bruntes Huhn is salt beef on a bed of diced vegetables, a robust winter favorite. Rollmops, pickled herring rolled in sour cream, is another local specialty, as is Finkenwerder Scholle (plaice) and oysters, raw or baked with cheese.

• Berlin: During those cold nights in old Prussia, Berliners took comfort in their soups, notably Kohlsuppe (cabbage soup) and Erbsensuppe (pea soup), along with dark bread, especially Westphalia pumpernickel. Hase im Topf is a delicious rabbit pâté. Other favorites are Bratwurst, a pork sausage, and Regensburger Wurst, a spicy pork sausage. For dessert, Berliners like Kugelhupf, a marvelous coffeecake, and Käsekuchen, or cheesecake. But probably the most typical Berlin delicacy is Eisbein (pigs’ knuckles).

• Hassen & Westphalia: Famed for its hams, this region eats food guaranteed to put hair on your chest. Sample their Sulperknochen, made from the pigs’ trotters (feet), ears, and tail, and served traditionally with pea pudding and pickled cabbage. Try Tüttchen, a ragout of herb-flavored calves’ heads and calves’ brains, or settle for Pickert, sweet-potato cakes flavored with raisins.

• Baden-Württemberg: In the southern region around Stuttgart, begin with such dishes as Schneckensuppe (snail soup), Spätzle (egg-based pasta), or perhaps Maultaschen (ravioli stuffed with ground meat, spinach, and calves’ brains). A dish beloved in the area and widely consumed is Geschnetzeltes (slices of veal in a cream sauce). The favorite local dish in Stuttgart itself is Gaisburger Marsch, a beef stew. Another commonly served dish is Rostbraten, braised beef, invariably accompanied by Sauerkraut or Linsen mit Saiten, lentil stew cooked with sausages.

• Saxony & Thuringia: In eastern Germany, you can feast on everything from Linsensuppe mit Thüringer Rotwurst (lentil soup with Thuringian sausages) to Rinderzunge in Rosinen-Sauce (calves’ tongues in grape sauce). Kartoffelsuppe (potato soup) remains a favorite of the district, as does a baked appetizer, Quarkkeulchen, made from curd, boiled potatoes, flour, sugar, and raisins, topped with cinnamon and served with applesauce. Each city in the district also has its own popular local dishes. Leipzig, for example, has its Leipziger Allerlei, a blend of carrots, peas, asparagus, cauliflower, mushrooms, crayfish, oxtails, bits of veal, and dumplings.

• Rhineland: The Rhineland features dishes that have made Germans the subject of good-natured ridicule, especially in neighboring France. For example, there’s Saumagen, stuffed pork belly with pickled cabbage. Also beloved is Schweinepfeffer, a highly seasoned and spicy pork ragout that’s thickened with pig blood. After that feast, it’s on to Hämchen, pork trotters with pickled cabbage and potatoes, or else Sauerbraten, beef marinated in wine vinegar and spices. Postwar Chancellor Konrad Adenauer was a Rhinelander, and one of his favorite foods was Reibekuchen, small potato pancakes with a blueberry sauce or applesauce. Taverns along the Rhine fill up when Federweisser, partially fermented new wine, comes in. They drink it while devouring onion tarts.

The Best of the wurst

The German love affair with Wurst (sausage) dates from the dawn of history. Every region of Germany has its own specialty, but the overall favorite seems to be Bratwurst from Nürnberg, made of seasoned and spiced pork. Germans often take their Wurst with a bun and a dab of mustard. Weisswurst (white sausage) is a medley of veal, calves’ brains, and spleen. Bauernwurst (farmer’s sausage) and Knockwurst are variations of the Frankfurter, which originated (naturally) in Frankfurt. (Oddly enough, small Frankfurters, which are called wieners or Vienna sausages in the United States and Wienerwurst in Germany, are known as Frankfurters in Austria.) Leberwurst (made from liver) is a specialty of Hesse. Rinderwurst and Blutwurst (beef sausage and blood sausage) are Westphalian specialties and are often eaten with Steinhäger (corn brandy).

Beer & Wine

Beer For variety and quality, German beer is unequaled. The world’s oldest brewery is in Bavaria, but other regions in Germany have proud beer-making traditions. Export beers and the rather more bitter Pils, the most popular type of beer, are also produced in Berlin, Hamburg, the Ruhr, Hesse, and Stuttgart. Altbier, a very early product of the brewer’s art, can be found today all over Germany.

In Germany, if you go into a beer hall and ask the bartender for ein Bier, you’ll probably get the standard stock beer, Vollbier, which is 4% alcohol. More potent is Export at 5% or Bockbier at 6%. Connoisseurs specify the type of beer they want and often the brewery. The following is a bit of beer vocabulary. When the malt has been darkly roasted and fermented for much longer, it becomes dunkles Bier, or dark beer. Doppelbock is an extra-dark beer with a 6% alcoholic content. Helles Bier is light and brewed from malt dried and baked by the local brewery, or Brauerei. Many Germans, especially the citizens of Bamberg, like their beer “smoked.” If that appeals to you, request Rauchbier. In nearby Bayreuth, Richard Wagner’s old hometown, locals prefer a “steam beer” known as Dampfbier. The denizens of Düsseldorf and Frankfurt can often be heard requesting Alt, a brown, barley-malt brew. Kölsch is a light beer drunk mainly in Cologne in tall fluted glasses. Hefeweizen is a yeasty wheat beer consumed often with a squeeze of lemon. Berliner Weisse is made from wheat, like a Bavarian white beer, but with a dash of raspberry or woodruff syrup. Dark and sweet, malt beer has hardly any alcohol, whereas Starkbier is a powerful beer served when the barrels are opened after the post-Lenten celebrations in March. It has the highest alcohol content of them all. Finally, Pils, or pilsner, beers are light and contain more hops. Dortmund has earned a reputation in this field.

o’ zapfstisl (“The Barrel Is Tapped”)

The oldest brewery in the world is at Weihenstephan, a former Benedictine monastery 30km (19 miles) northeast of Munich in Old Bavaria. It dates from the year 1040, although there is evidence that a hop garden already existed near the grounds of the monastery in A.D. 768. The monks here brought beer to the masses in Europe. Even today, the oldest brewery within Munich itself, Augustiner, reflects brewing’s monastic heritage.

Over the centuries, monks brewed a strong beer for consumption during the fasting period of Lent, during which they were technically supposed to drink only water. The story goes that the pope heard about this custom and ordered that the beer be transported to Rome for him to sample. When the pope finally tasted the beer after its long journey (it didn’t have preservatives back then), he decided it tasted foul and decreed that the beer was strong enough punishment for the Bavarian monks to drink it during Lent. Today, all Munich breweries brew this strong beer during Lent; Salvator and Triumphator are the best-known brands. Ator in German means a strong beer. By long-standing tradition, the names of German Doppelbock Bier (a type of strong beer) end with an “-ator” suffix.

Wine Germany has produced delightful wines for centuries, but sometime in the 1970s, German wine became the butt of jokes. The postwar German economic miracle had led to a boom in wine production. Many new vineyards sprang up suddenly, and quality was not always their first priority. Cheap, cloyingly sweet table wines flooded the market. One label in particular, Liebfraumilch, began to sully the reputation of the entire industry; the mere mention of its name to anyone in the know met with a knowing titter or contemptuous sneer. Today, however, German viticulture has many smaller producers producing excellent wines.

Good German wine is renowned for its natural lightness and its delicate balance of sweetness and acidity. Most vineyards flourish on steep hillsides, protected from harsh winds by wooded neighboring hills, especially on the banks of the Rhine and Mosel rivers and their tributaries. The vineyards profit from the warmth reflected off the sunlit water. The slow maturing of the grapes gives German wines their typical fresh, fruity acidity.

Germany does produce red wine, but as a rule it’s better to stick to white or perhaps a rosé. Trocken (dry) or halbtrocken (semidry) are often given on the labels; look for them if you want to escape anything sweet. This avoidance, however, should not extend to the dessert wines, which resemble nectar.

The overload of information on a German wine label is often puzzling to foreigners, but it’s not really that hard to decipher. First of all, the grape variety should be indicated. Legally, German wines are only required to contain 85% of the declared variety. The classic is Riesling, which can range widely in taste from fruity to spicy. Other grapes include Weissburgunder, used to make dry wines, often with an aroma of melon or pear, and Scheurebe, which produces delicious, high-quality wine with the aroma of red currant. No grape reference on the label often means a poorly blended, inferior-quality wine.

“Vintage” refers to when the grapes were grown (not harvested). The question of origin is also something to keep an eye on. It’s best if the label gives a single vineyard, but these can be distinguished from the less specific vineyard zones only if you are in the know or can consult a pocket guide, such as Johnson’s.

Next, check for the level of ripeness. German law distinguishes between Tafelwein (table wine) and Qualitätswein (quality wine). QbA (Qualitätswein bestimmter Anbaugebiete) on a bottle means the wine is made from the approved grape varieties, which will give it the particular and traditional taste of its region. QmP refers to Qualitätswein mit Prädikat (wine with distinction) and carries one of six special attributes. These, in order of ascending price, are Kabinett, Spätlese, Auslese, Beerenauslese (BA), Eiswein, and the exclusive Trockenbeerenauslese (TBA).

As a classification, Kabinett was first used by Eberbach Abbey in 1712 to denote quality. This wine is especially good as an aperitif with light snacks or veal. The mildly sweet and fruity Auslese from the Mosel-Saar-Ruwer region and the rich Spätlese are well suited to richer dishes such as duck, smoked fowl, and oysters. Those trocken and halbtrocken Rieslings from the Rheingau and Mosel-Saar-Ruwer are perfect with pork, sausages, and Sauerkraut, as well as with mild cheeses. A fuller-bodied Riesling Spätlese and Auslese Trocken from Rheingau or Pfalz goes excellently with wild boar and lobster. The rarest vintages, those sweet wines carrying the BA and TBA designations, are best left for anything oily or pungent in flavor, such as goose-liver pâté or rich cheeses. They are also wonderful with desserts.

Many foreign visitors tour one of the winegrowing districts. Since reunification, a number of wine districts have emerged in eastern Germany; however, the traditional German wine country, stretching from the middle Rhine at Bonn down to Lake Constance on the Swiss border, is still the most charming, with its classic scenery of imposing castle ruins, elegant spas, and Brothers Grimm villages replete with spires and black-and-white gabled houses.

When to Go

The most popular tourist months are May to October, although winter travel to Germany is becoming increasingly popular, especially to the ski areas in the Bavarian Alps. Germany’s climate varies widely. In the north, winters tend to be cold and rainy; summers are most agreeable. In the south and in the Alps, it can be very cold in the winter, especially in January, and very warm in summer, but with cool, rainy days even in July and August. Spring and fall are often stretched out—in fact, we’ve enjoyed many a Bavarian-style “Indian summer” until late in October.

Holidays

Public holidays are January 1 (New Year’s Day), Easter (Good Friday and Easter Monday), May 1 (Labor Day), Ascension Day (10 days before Pentecost/Whitsunday, the seventh Sun after Easter), Whitmonday (day after Pentecost/Whitsunday), October 3 (Day of German Unity), November 17 (Day of Prayer and Repentance), and December 25 and 26 (Christmas). In addition, the following holidays are observed in some German states: January 6 (Epiphany), Corpus Christi (10 days after Pentecost), August 15 (Assumption), and November 1 (All Saints’ Day).

Calendar of Events

All dates and events are subject to change. Contact the German National Tourist Board (www.germany-tourism.de) for more information. The board publishes a free calendar of forthcoming events three times a year, in April, October, and January; the first two are biannual calendars and the last is a yearly preview. They give the dates of trade fairs and exhibitions, theatrical and musical performances, local folk festivals, sporting events, conferences, and congresses throughout Germany.

For an exhaustive list of events beyond those listed here, check http://events.frommers.com, where you’ll find a searchable, up-to-the-minute roster of what’s happening in cities all over the world.

January

New Year’s Day International Ski Jumping, Garmisch-Partenkirchen. This is one of Europe’s major winter sporting events. For more information, contact the tourist bureau on Richard-Strauss-Platz ( 08821/180700;www.gapa.de). January 1.

February

International Film Festival, Berlin (at various theaters; announced in local newspapers). Stars, would-be stars, directors, and almost anyone with a film to peddle show up at this well-attended festival. It lasts for 10 days and is a showcase for the work of international film directors as well as the latest German films. Tickets can be purchased at any box office. Contact the Berlin International Film Festival ( 030/259200;www.berlinale.de) for more information. Early February.

Ambiente. This is one of the principal consumer goods trade fairs of Europe. Its origins go back centuries. For information, call 069/75750 (http://ambiente.messefrankfurt.com). Mid-February.

Fasching. Carnival festivals take place throughout Germany, reaching their peak on the Tuesday (Mardi Gras) before Ash Wednesday. Particularly famous carnivals take place in Bonn, Cologne, Düsseldorf, and especially Munich.

March

Spring Fairs. Highlights throughout Germany, especially in Augsburg, Münster, Nürnberg, Hamburg, and Stuttgart. Dates vary from year to year.

April

Walpurgis Festivals. Celebrated in the Harz Mountains. Festivities occur on the night of April 30.

May

Hamburg Summer. An entire series of cultural events, including concerts, plays, festivals, and special exhibitions throughout May, June, and July. For information, contact the Hamburg Tourist Bureau, in Hauptbahnhof ( 040/30051300;www.hamburg-tourism.de).

International May Theatre Festival, Wiesbaden. This city near Frankfurt hosts a premier cultural event—a series of artistic celebrations lasting 1 month. For information, contact the Wiesbaden Tourist Office, Marktstrasse 6 ( 0611/1729780;www.wiesbaden.de).

June

Floodlighting of the Castle, Heidelberg. Fireworks enliven the display in this storied university city. For more information, contact the Heidelberg Tourist Bureau, Willy-Brandt-Platz 1 ( 06221/14220;www.heidelberg-marketing.de). June, July, and September.

Mozart Festival, Würzburg. Mozart fans flock to this major cultural event in the baroque city of Würzburg. For more information, contact Tourismus Zentrale, Falkenhaus am Markt Centrum ( 0931/372336;www.wuerzburg.de or www.mozartfest-wuerzburg.de). Early June to early July.

July

See Floodlighting of the Castle, Heidelberg, under June, above.

Freiburg Wine Tasting. Local residents and visitors enjoy the first vintages from grapes grown in the Black Forest district. For more information, contact the Freiburg Tourist Board, Rathausplatz 2–4 ( 0761/3881880;www.freiburg.de). Early July.

Richard Wagner Festival, Bayreuth. One of Europe’s two or three major opera events, this festival takes place in the composer’s Festspielhaus in the capital of upper Franconia. Note that opera tickets often must be booked years in advance. For information, contact Festival Administration, Bayreuther Festspiele, Kartenbüro, Postfach 100262 ( 0921/78780;www.bayreuther-festspiele.de). Late July to late August.

August

Red Wine Festival, Rüdesheim/Assmannshausen. This is held in Assmannshausen, the Rhine village most famous for red wines. For exact dates, contact the Rüdesheim Tourist Bureau, Geisenheimer Strasse 22 ( 06722/906150;www.ruedesheim.de). Late August.

Musikfest Berlin ( 030/254890;www.berlinerfestspiele.de) takes place for a little more than 2 weeks. During the festival, Berlin plays host to orchestras, ensembles, conductors, and soloists from around the world. The festival is organized in conjunction with the Stiftung Berliner Philharmoniker. Late August to mid-September.

September

See Floodlighting of the Castle, Heidelberg, under June, above.

Oktoberfest, Munich. Much of Germany’s most famous festival takes place in September, not October. Millions show up, and hotels are packed. Most activities are at Theresienwiese, where local breweries sponsor gigantic tents that can hold up to 6,000 beer drinkers. Contact the Munich Tourist Bureau ( 089/23396500;www.muenchen.de) for particulars or just show up. Reserve hotel rooms well in advance. Mid-September to mid-October.

October

Frankfurt Book Fair. A major international event for publishers, book dealers, agents, and authors. For more information call 069/21020 (www.frankfurt-book-fair.com) or contact the Frankfurt Tourist Office ( 069/21238800;www.frankfurt-tourismus.de). Mid-October.

Spielzeit’europa. Schaperstrasse 24, Berlin ( 030/254890;www.berlinerfestspiele.de), is a 4-month season of theater and dance performances at Festspiele. October to January.

November

Jazz-Fest Berlin. This annual festival, staged at the Philharmonie, attracts some of the world’s finest jazz artists, ranging from traditional to experimental. Contact the Berlin Festspiele Ticket Office ( 030/254890;www.berlinerfestspiele.de) for more information. Early November.

Winter Dom, Hamburg. An annual amusement fair (sometimes called Hamburg Dom) at the Heiligengeistfeld. For more information, contact the Hamburg Tourist Bureau, in Hauptbahnhof ( 040/30051300;www.hamburg-tourism.de). Early November to early December.

December

Christmas Fair, Mainz. Mainz stages its Christmas fair on the Rhine for the 4 weeks preceding Christmas. For more information, contact the Mainz Tourist Bureau, Brueckenturm am Rathaus ( 06131/286210;www.mainz.de). December. (Other German towns hold Christmas fairs in Nov.)

Responsible Travel

Germans, with some justification, consider themselves in the avant-garde of green travel. Although they suffered one of history’s most devastating attacks on their environment (World War II), in the postwar years they became a front-runner in preserving their environment and protecting nature.

“Germans are known for recycling and reusing their natural resources,” said Berlin activist Hans Welder.

In Germany, more and more systems are going into place to generate energy from wind and solar power.

Germans didn’t exactly invent walking or hiking across their countryside, but you would think so when you notice the numbers of citizens who prefer this form of exploration. It’s a way to stay in good health, enjoy nature, and avoid harming the environment, all at the same time.

Trails in Germany are often signposted, cutting through all areas of the country, from tidal shores to low mountain regions, with tours offered to some of the more difficult-to-reach points along mountaintops.

The outdoor enthusiast might want to concentrate on Germany’s national parks, 14 in all, with the heaviest concentration in Bavaria and in old East Germany. Our favorite of these biosphere reserves is the Bavarian Forest National Park in the south and the Harz National Park in Lower Saxony and Saxony-Anhalt.

We applaud the German effort to reintroduce wildlife that was once native to these parks. The last lynx in the Harz Mountains was shot in 1818. But the animal was reintroduced in 1999, and wild lynxes began to give birth in 2002. However, other attempts have failed, including an attempt to return the capercaillie to its former native habitat.

For general data about the parks of Germany, consult Nationalpark Service, Informationshaus, 17192 Federow, Germany ( 039/91668849;www.nationalpark-service.de). The national parks are free, but camping at designated areas ranges from 5€ to 10€ per night. Some parks have huts that are basic but better than a tent, and this form of accommodations costs from 10€ to 20€ per person. Park rangers crack down on those who harm the environment.

If you’re interested in camping, check the Great Outdoor Recreation Page (www.gorp.com) before you go. It has some fine data not only on camping but also on ways to enjoy the landscapes of Germany.

Many organizations are devoted to eco-tourism today, including Biosphefere Expedition, P.O. Box 917750, Longwood, FL 32791 ( 800/407-5761;www.biosphere-expeditions.org). This group sets up ecofriendly tours to the Bavarian Alps, for example. Earthwatch, 3 Clocktower Place, Ste. 1000, P.O. Box 75, Maynard, MA 01754 ( 800/776-0188;www.earthwatch.org), often includes Germany in its 1- to 3-week jaunts to promote conservation of natural resources.

An unusual offering for the true green visitor is provided by Willing Workers on Organic Farms, Postfach 210259, 01263 Dresden (www.wwoof.de). Charging a membership of 20€, the organization’s name says it all—participants get free room and board at a variety of organic farms throughout the country, but they must be willing to work for their supper.

One of the best ways for the green traveler in Germany is to take a tour from one bio hotel to another. These jaunts take you to the most scenic parts of the country, ranging from Lüneburg in the north to the Bavarian Forest in the south. For information and a list of these places to stay, check www.biohotels.info.

Increasingly popular is spending a vacation on a German farm, a welcome alternative for families with children. Sometimes guests can help with the activities, such as feeding the cows or helping with the harvest. Some lodgings are no longer working farms but have been turned into tranquil guesthouses with typical regional charm. Find out more about this type of holiday by searching www.landtourismus.de.

In addition to the resources for Germany listed above, see frommers.com/planning for more tips on responsible travel.

Tours

Germany is one of the great outdoor destinations of Europe. From its mountains to its beaches, from its rivers to its castles, there is much to see and explore. It has summer attractions galore, plus skiing on its Alpine slopes in winter. Here is but a sampling of the offerings that await you.

Biking

In Germany you can bike through green valleys and past rivers while enjoying rural landscapes and villages. Allgemeiner Deutscher Fahrrad-Club, P.O. Box 107747, 28077 Bremen ( 0421/346290;www.adfc.de), offers complete information on biking in Germany.

For over 20 years, Classic Adventures, P.O. Box 143, Hamlin, NY 14464 ( 800/777-8090; fax 585/964-7297; www.classicadventures.com), has offered bike tours of such areas as the Romantic Road. Euro-Bike and Walking Tours has teamed with Austin-Lehman Adventures to offer some of the best biking and walking tours in Germany. The company’s trips in Bavaria are particularly notable. For more information, check out www.austinlehman.com. You can also call 800/575-1540 in the United States and Canada, or else write to P.O. Box 81025, Billings, MT 59108.

Dozens of companies in Britain offer guided cycling tours. One of the best is the Cyclists Touring Club, Parklands, Railton Road, Guildford, Surrey GUZ 9JX ( 0870/873-0060;www.ctc.org.uk). It charges £36 a year for membership.

Cruises

The most popular cruises in Germany are along the Rhine. For more details, see for more information.

Jody Lexow Yacht Charters rents hotel barges (including crew, food, and beverages) and smaller self-drive craft for touring the canals and rivers of Germany. For additional information, contact the agency at 26 Coddington Wharf, Newport, RI 02840 ( 800/662-2628;www.jodylexowyachtcharters.com).

Canal barge cruises are the way to see a rarely viewed part of Germany. The best such packages are available through European Barging, 25132 Oakhurst Dr., No. 130, Spring, TX 77386 ( 888/869-7907;www.europeanbarging.com). German itineraries focus on Berlin and the Mecklenburg lakes, and the “Mosel Cruise,” from Trier to Koblenz.

Escorted General-Interest Tours

Escorted tours are structured group tours with a group leader. The price usually includes everything from airfare to hotels, meals, admission costs, and local transportation.

Many people derive a sense of ease and security from escorted trips. Escorted tours—whether by bus, motorcoach, train, or boat—let travelers sit back and enjoy the trip without having to spend lots of time behind the wheel or worrying about details. You know your costs upfront, and there are few surprises. Escorted tours can take you to the maximum number of sights in the minimum amount of time with the least amount of hassle—you don’t have to sweat over the plotting and planning of a vacation schedule. Escorted tours are particularly convenient for people with limited mobility. They can also be a great way to meet people.

On the downside, an escorted tour often requires a big deposit upfront, and lodging and dining choices are predetermined. You’ll have few opportunities for serendipitous interactions with locals. The tours can be jampacked with activities, leaving little room for individual sightseeing, whim, or adventure—plus they often focus only on the heavily touristed sites, so you miss out on lesser known gems.

Brendan Vacations ( 800/421-8446;www.brendanvacations.com) has a selection of 8- to 15-day tours. Accommodations are at the better hotels, and rates include everything except airfare. Collette Vacations ( 800/340-5158;www.collettevacations.com) has an “Alpine Countries” tour that covers southern Germany, Austria, and Switzerland. Globus & Cosmos Tours ( 800/338-7092;www.globusandcosmos.com) offers 9- to 16-day escorted tours of various parts of Germany. It also has a budget branch that offers tours at lower rates. Maupintour ( 800/255-4266;www.maupintour.com) has a selection of upscale tours, such as a Rhine River tour of Berlin, Dresden, Meissen, Nürnberg, and Heidelberg. Its most popular tour is a 14-day trip that takes in such cities as Dresden, Berlin, Rothenburg, Munich, Meissen, Baden-Baden, and Potsdam, including a Rhine River cruise past the Lorelei Rock.

Abercrombie & Kent ( 800/554-7016;www.abercrombiekent.com) provides customized group tours to various areas of Germany.

Golf

Most German golf courses welcome visiting players who are members of courses at home. Weekday greens fees are usually around 50€, rising to as much as 90€ on Saturday and Sunday. For information about the various golf courses, write to the Deutscher Golf/Verband, Viktoriastrasse 16, 65189 Wiesbaden ( 0611/990200;www.golf.de/dgv).

The Swabian region of Allgäu has several good courses. Golf Club Oberstaufen und Steibis ( 08386/8529;www.golf-oberstaufen.de), at Oberstaufen, is an 18-hole course close to a forest and nature park. Ofterschwang, a small, peaceful resort on the scenically beautiful Tiefenberger Moor, has Golf Club Sonnenalp ( 08321/272181;www.golfresort-sonnenalp.de). A good 18-hole course is found at Golf Bodensee ( 08389/89190;www.gcbw.de) on Lake Constance in southern Germany. Farther north, the city of Augsburg has an 18-hole course at Golf Augsburg ( 08234/5621;www.golfclub-augsburg.de).

Hiking & Mountain Climbing

These sports are popular in the German uplands. It’s estimated that Germany has more than 80,000 marked hiking and mountain-walking tracks. The Deutschen Wanderverband, Wilhelmshöher Alle 157–159, 34121 Kassel ( 0561/938730;www.wanderverband.de), services the trails and offers details about trails, shelters, huts, and addresses of hiking associations in various regions. The Deutscher Alpenverein (DAV), Von-Kahr-Strasse 2–4, 80997 Munich ( 089/140030;www.alpenverein.de), owns and operates 50 huts in and around the Alps that are open to all mountaineers. This association also maintains a 15,000km (9,300-mile) network of Alpine trails.

The best Alpine hiking is in the Bavarian Alps, especially the 1,240m (4,070-ft.) Eckbauer, on the southern fringe of Partenkirchen. The tourist office will supply hiking maps and details. Another great place for hiking is Berchtesgaden National Park, Franziskanerplatz 7, Berchtesgaden ( 08652/64343;www.nationalpark-berchtesgaden.bayern.de), bordering the Austrian province of Salzburg. This park offers the best-organized hikes and will hook you up with various groups offering hikes.

Planning Your Trip to Germany

Getting There

By Plane

Lufthansa ( 800/645-3880 in the U.S., 800/563-5954 in Canada, or 01805/805805 in Germany; www.lufthansa.com) operates the most frequent service and flies to the greatest number of Germany’s airports. From North America, Lufthansa serves 23 gateway cities. In any season, there are more than 100 weekly flights from these cities to Germany. The largest of the gateways is the New York City area, where flights depart from both JFK and Newark airports. Lufthansa has an alliance with United Airlines and Air Canada to provide seamless air service to Germany and other parts of the globe from North America. Dubbed “Star Alliance,” the union allows cross-airline benefits, including travel on one or all of these airlines on one ticket and frequent-flier credit to the participating airline of your choice.

American Airlines ( 800/443-7300;www.aa.com) flies nonstop from Chicago and Dallas to Frankfurt daily, and American’s flights connect easily with ongoing flights to many other German cities on Lufthansa or British Airways. Continental Airlines ( 800/525-0280;www.continental.com) offers daily nonstop service from Newark to Frankfurt. Delta Airlines ( 800/241-4141;www.delta.com) offers daily connecting service to Hamburg (via Paris) and nonstop to Frankfurt from Atlanta, Cincinnati, and New York’s JFK; nonstop to Munich from Atlanta; and nonstop to Berlin from JFK. United Airlines ( 800/538-2929;www.united.com) offers daily nonstops from Los Angeles, New York, and Chicago to Frankfurt and Munich, and because of the Star Alliance, discussed above, all German flights by Lufthansa or Air Canada will also be honored as a part of a United ticket. US Airways ( 800/428-4322;www.usairways.com) also flies to Frankfurt and Munich daily (with nonstops from Charlotte and Philadelphia).

From London, British Airways ( 0870/8509850;www.britishairways.com) and Lufthansa ( 01805/805805;www.lufthansa.com) are the most convenient carriers to the major German cities, including Düsseldorf, Cologne, Frankfurt, Munich, and Berlin. British Midland ( 0870/6070555;www.flybmi.com) has daily flights to Cologne, Düsseldorf, Frankfurt, Hamburg, and Munich.

Flying for Less: Tips for Getting the Best Airfare

• Passengers who can book their ticket either long in advance or at the last minute, or who fly midweek or at less trafficked hours, may pay a fraction of the full fare. If your schedule is flexible, say so, and ask if you can secure a cheaper fare by changing your flight plans.

• Search the Internet for cheap fares. The most popular online travel agencies are Travelocity (www.travelocity.com), Expedia (www.expedia.com), and Orbitz (www.orbitz.com). In the U.K., go to Travelsupermarket ( 0845/345-5708;www.travelsupermarket.com), a flight search engine that offers flight comparisons for the budget airlines whose seats often end up in bucket shop sales. Other websites for booking airline tickets online include Cheapflights.com, SmarterTravel.com, Priceline (www.priceline.com), and Opodo (www.opodo.com). Meta-search sites (which find and then direct you to airline and hotel websites for booking) include Sidestep.com and Kayak.com—the latter includes fares for budget carriers such as JetBlue and Spirit as well as the major airlines. Lastminute.com is a great source for last-minute flights and getaways. In addition, most airlines offer online-only fares that even their phone agents know nothing about.

• Keep an eye on local newspapers for promotional specials or fare wars, when airlines lower prices on their most popular routes.

• Consolidators, also known as bucket shops, are wholesale brokers in the airline-ticket game. Consolidators buy deeply discounted tickets (“distressed” inventories of unsold seats) from airlines and sell them to online ticket agencies, travel agents, tour operators, corporations, and, to a lesser degree, the general public. Consolidators advertise in Sunday newspaper travel sections (often in small ads with tiny type), in both the U.S. and the U.K. They can be great sources for cheap international tickets. On the downside, bucket shop tickets are often rigged with restrictions, such as stiff cancellation penalties (as high as 50%–75% of the ticket price). And keep in mind that most of what you see advertised is of limited availability. Several reliable consolidators are worldwide and available online. STA Travel (www.statravel.com) has been the world’s leading consolidator for students since purchasing Council Travel, but their fares are competitive for travelers of all ages. Flights.com ( 201/541-3826) has excellent fares worldwide, particularly to Europe. They also have “local” websites in 12 countries. FlyCheap ( 800/359-2432;www.flycheap.com) has especially good fares to sunny destinations. AirTicketsDirect ( 888/858-8884;www.airticketsdirect.com), based in Montreal, is another good source.

• Join frequent-flier clubs. Frequent-flier membership doesn’t cost a cent, but it does entitle you to free tickets or upgrades when you amass the airline’s required number of frequent-flier points. You don’t even have to fly to earn points; frequent-flier credit cards can earn you thousands of miles for doing your everyday shopping. But keep in mind that award seats are limited, seats on popular routes are hard to snag, and more and more major airlines are cutting their expiration periods for mileage points—so check your airline’s frequent-flier program so you don’t lose your miles before you use them. Inside tip: Award seats are offered almost a year in advance, but seats also open up at the last minute, so if your travel plans are flexible, you may strike gold. To play the frequent-flier game to your best advantage, consult the community bulletin boards on FlyerTalk (www.flyertalk.com) or go to Randy Petersen’s Inside Flyer (www.insideflyer.com). Petersen and friends review all the programs in detail and post regular updates on changes in policies and trends.

Getting Through the airport

• Arrive at the airport at least 2 hours before an international flight to Germany. You can check the average wait times at your airport by going to the TSA Security Checkpoint Wait Times site (http://waittime.tsa.dhs.gov).

• Know what you can carry on and what you can’t. For the latest updates on items you are prohibited to bring in carry-on luggage, go to www.tsa.gov/travelers/airtravel.

• Beat the ticket-counter lines by using the self-service electronic ticket kiosks at the airport or even printing out your boarding pass at home from the airline website. Using curbside check-in is also a smart way to avoid lines.

• Help speed up security before you’re screened. Remove jackets, shoes, belt buckles, heavy jewelry, and watches and place them either in your carry-on luggage or the security bins provided. Place keys, coins, cellphones, and pagers in a security bin. If you have metallic body parts, carry a note from your doctor. When possible, keep liquids in checked baggage.

• Use a TSA-approved lock for your checked luggage. Look for Travel Sentry certified locks at luggage or travel shops and Brookstone stores (or online at www.brookstone.com).

Don’t Stow It—Ship It

Though pricey, it’s sometimes worthwhile to travel luggage-free, particularly if you’re toting sports equipment, meetings materials, or baby equipment. Specialists in door-to-door luggage delivery include Skycap International and Sports Express. Both services use the same website (www.sportsexpress.com).

By Train

Many passengers, especially holders of the Eurailpass, travel to Germany by train from other European cities. (See “Getting Around,” below, for information on purchasing rail passes.)

British Rail runs four trains a day to Germany from Victoria Station in London, going by way of the Ramsgate-Ostend ferry or jetfoil. Two trains depart from London’s Liverpool Street Station, via Harwich-Hook of Holland. Most trains change at Cologne for destinations elsewhere in Germany. You can purchase tickets through British Rail travel centers in London ( 866/274-8724 in the U.S. and Canada; www.britrail.com). See “Via the Chunnel,” below, for information about the Eurostar service running between London and Brussels via the Channel Tunnel.

Unless you pay a premium for rail travel on the Eurostar, which connects London’s St. Pancras station via the Chunnel (see below) with either Paris or Brussels, train travel from the U.K. to points within Germany can be lengthy and tedious, with multiple transfers en route and with long, bouncing segments aboard either hovercrafts or conventional ferryboats between the English port of Ramsgate and the Belgian port of Oostende. If you opt to save money and embark upon one of these non-Chunnel methods of transport, expect transit times between London and Cologne of up to 12 hours, and from London to either Berlin or Munich of between 18 and 22 hours, depending on the train and the ferryboat or hovercraft crossing.

Frankly, it’s far better to pay the extra premium aboard Eurostar, the name given to each of the trains running under the English Channel, between London and Brussels, and from there, taking a high-speed train onward to your destination within Germany. Even so, transit time from London to Cologne, requiring a change in Brussels, would take 4 hours and 45 minutes; from London to Berlin, requiring a single change in Brussels and Cologne, would take 9 hours; and from London to Munich, requiring a single change in Brussels, would require between 9 and 10 hours, depending on the day of the week.

By Car & Ferry

To bring a car over from England, you face a choice of ports from which you’ll continue driving to Germany. P & O Ferries ( 08716/645645 in the U.K.; www.poferries.com) has 30 to 35 ferryboat crossings a day, depending on the season, between Dover and Calais. The crossing can take as little as 1 hour and 15 minutes. Once you’re in Calais, the drive to Cologne takes about 3 hours. Other options involve passage from Harwich to the Hook of Holland, a sea crossing of about 8 hours. You can also take your car via the Chunnel (see below).

Via the Channel Tunnel

The $15-billion Channel Tunnel, one of the greatest engineering feats of all time, is the first link between Britain and the Continent since the Ice Age. The tunnel was built beneath the seabed through a layer of impermeable chalk marl and sealed with a reinforced concrete lining. The 50km (30-mile) journey between Britain and France takes 35 minutes, although actual time in the Chunnel is only 19 minutes. Once on the Continent, you can connect to Germany fairly easily.

Rail Europe (www.raileurope.com) sells tickets on the Eurostar direct train service between London and Paris or Brussels ( 800/622-8600 in the U.S., or 800/361-7245 in Canada; www.eurostar.com). In the U.K., make reservations for Eurostar at 0870/5186186. The train operates 24 hours a day, 365 days a year, running every 15 minutes during peak travel times and at least once an hour at night.

The tunnel also accommodates passenger cars, charter buses, taxis, and motorcycles from Folkestone to Calais. Tickets may be purchased at the tollbooth.

Getting Around

By Plane

From Frankfurt, most Lufthansa ( 800/645-3880 in the U.S., or 800/563-5954 in Canada; www.lufthansa.com) destinations in Germany can be reached in an average of 50 minutes, with at least four flights daily.

All German cities with commercial airports have an airport shuttle service, offering reduced fares and fast connections between the city center and the airport. Departure points are usually the airlines’ town offices and the city’s main rail terminal. Luggage can be checked at the DB (Deutsche Bahn/German Rail) baggage counter at the airport for delivery to the railroad station at your ultimate destination.

By Train

Whether you travel first- or second-class, you’ll find that the trains of German Rail (DB Rail; 0800/1507090;www.bahn.de) deserve their good reputation for comfort, cleanliness, and punctuality. All are modern and fast, and all cars are nonsmoking. A snack bar or a dining car, serving German and international cuisine as well as good wine and beer, can usually be found on all trains except locals.

For city sightseeing, you can leave your baggage in a locker or check it at the station’s baggage counter. In many cities, German Rail provides door-to-door baggage service, allowing passengers to have luggage picked up at or delivered to their hotels. Accompanying baggage can be checked for a nominal fee. Suitcases, baby carriages, skis, bicycles, and steamer trunks are permitted as baggage. Insurance policies of various kinds, including a travel medical plan, are also available.

About 20,000 InterCity (IC;www.bahn.de) passenger trains offer express service every hour between most large and medium-size German cities. IC trains have adjustable cushioned seats and individual reading lights, and often offer telephone and secretarial services. Bars, lounges, and dining rooms are available, too. A network of EuroCity (EC) trains connecting Germany with 13 other countries offers the same high standards of service as those of IC.

Germany’s high-speed rail network, known as InterCity Express (ICE), is among the fastest in Europe—their trains reach speeds of 280kmph (174 mph). One of these trains runs from Hamburg, via Würzburg and Nürnberg, to Munich; another from Frankfurt, via Stuttgart, to Munich; and yet another from Berlin, via Frankfurt, to Munich. Each train makes stops along the way. ICE significantly reduces travel time, making transits north to south across the country easily possible in the course of a single day. Some 200 east-west connections have been added to the German Rail timetable to link the Deutsche Bundesbahn (west) and the Deutsche Reichsbahn (east). Additional connections make Leipzig and Dresden more accessible.

InterCity Night (ICN)—one of the most comfortable night trains in Europe—operates between Berlin and Bonn, and Berlin and Munich. Even though the train doesn’t depart until 10 or 11pm, you may board as early as 8 or 8:30pm. Arrival the next morning is between 6:55 and 7:55am, and you have the option of remaining aboard until 9 or 9:30am.

The ICN offers first and tourist class. Sleeping accommodations in first class include single or double compartments with shower and toilet, and they are equipped with key cards, phones for wake-up service, luggage storage, and other amenities. Tourist class offers open seating with sleeperettes (reclining seats). The ICN is equipped with a restaurant and bistro car, and a breakfast buffet is included in the first-class fare. For an extra cost, a limited menu for dinner is offered. Advance reservations are mandatory for all sleeping accommodations.

German Rail issues tickets for the ICN and also makes reservations. Eurail and German Rail pass holders are accepted on this train but have to pay for the seat or sleeper reservation and also for meals. Youth-pass holders are accepted only in tourist class. Children 3 and under travel free, provided they do not require a separate seat; those between 4 and 12 are charged half fare.

Before leaving for Germany, you can get complete details about German Rail and the many plans it offers, as well as information about Eurailpasses, at Rail Europe ( 877/272-7245;www.raileurope.com).

German Rail Tourist Passes The German Rail Passes offer several options beginning with 3 days and going up to 10 days in 1 month. For example 3 days of travel in 1 month costs 230€ first class or 175€ second class.

If you’re age 12 to 25, ask about a Youth Pass, or inquire about a Twin Pass, which is shared by two adults traveling together at all times.

The passes also entitle the bearer to additional benefits, such as free or discounted travel on selected bus routes operated by Deutsche Touring/Europabus, including destinations not serviced by trains, or excursions along particularly scenic highways such as the Romantic Road and the Castle Road. The pass also includes free travel on KD German Line steamers (day trips only) along the Rhine, Main, and Mosel rivers.

These passes are available from www.bahn.com or buy them from travel agent Rail Europe ( 877/272-7245). Rail Europe can also arrange cost-effective “Rail and Drive” packages that combine a certain number of days on the train with a certain number of days in a rental car. Here’s an example of how it might work: Ride the train from Frankfurt to Munich, spend 3 days exploring the city, and then rent a car for a 2-day excursion to Berchtesgaden and the Bavarian Alps. The German Rail Flexipass is also sold by Premier Gateway ( 800/777-8369 in the U.S. and Canada; www.premiergateway.com).

Where to Buy Rail Passes Travel agents in all towns and railway agents in major North American cities sell all these tickets, but the biggest supplier is Rail Europe ( 877/272-7245;www.raileurope.com), which can also give you informational brochures.

Many different rail passes are available in the U.K. for travel in Britain and continental Europe. Stop in at the International Rail Centre, Victoria Station, London SW1V 1JY ( 0870/5848848 in the U.K.). Some of the most popular passes, including Inter-Rail and Euro Youth, are offered only to travelers 25 years of age or under; these allow unlimited second-class travel through most European countries.

By Car

British travelers who want to bring their own cars over should see “By Car & Ferry” under “Getting There,” earlier in this chapter.

Competition in the European car-rental industry is fierce, so make sure you comparison shop. You can make reservations by calling these toll-free numbers: Avis ( 800/331-1212;www.avis.com), Budget ( 800/472-3325;www.budget.com), Hertz ( 800/654-3001;www.hertz.com), Kemwel Drive Group ( 877/820-0668;www.kemwel.com), and Auto Europe ( 800/223-5555;www.autoeurope.com). You can often rent a car in one German city and return it to another for no additional charge.

There are some advantages to prepaying rentals in your native currency before leaving home. You get an easy-to-understand net price, the rental process is more streamlined, and you can avoid unpleasant surprises caused by sudden unfavorable changes in currency exchange rates. Remember, however, that if you opt to prepay and your plans change, you’ll have to go through some rather complicated paperwork for changing or canceling a prepaid contract.

Driving Rules In Germany, you drive on the right side of the road. Both front- and back-seat passengers must wear safety belts. Children 5 and younger cannot ride in the front seat.

Easy-to-understand international road signs are posted, but U.S. travelers should remember that road signs are in kilometers, not miles. In congested areas, the speed limit is about 50kmph (about 30 mph). On all other roads except the autobahns, the speed limit is 100kmph (about 60 mph).

In theory, there is no speed limit on the autobahns (in the left, fast lane), but many drivers going too fast report that they have been stopped by the police and fined, and the government recommends a speed limit of 130kmph (81 mph). Reasonable caution is recommended, for safety if nothing else. A German driver on the autobahn can be a ferocious creature, and you may prefer the slow lane.

Note: Drinking while driving is a very serious offense in Germany. Be sure to keep any alcoholic beverages in the trunk or other storage area.

Breakdowns/Assistance The major automobile club in Germany is Automobilclub von Deutschland (AvD), Lyoner Strasse 16, 60528 Frankfurt ( 069/660600;www.avd.de). If you have a breakdown on the autobahn, you can call from one of many emergency phones, spaced about a mile apart. On secondary roads, go to the nearest phone. If you don’t belong to an auto club, call 01802/222222. In English, ask for “road service assistance.” Emergency assistance is free, but you pay for parts and materials.

Driver’s Licenses American drivers, and those from E.U. countries, need only a domestic license to drive. However, in Germany and throughout the rest of Europe, you must also have an international insurance certificate, known as a carte verte (green card). Any car-rental agency will automatically provide one of these as a standard part of the rental contract, but it’s a good idea to double-check all documents at the time of rental, just to be sure that you can identify the card if asked by border patrol or the police.

By Bus

An excellent, efficient bus network services Germany. Many buses are operated by Bahnbus, which is owned by the railway. These are integrated to complement the rail service. Bus service in Germany is particularly convenient during slow periods of rail service, normally around midday and on Saturday and Sunday. German post offices often operate local bus services (contact local post offices for schedules and prices).

The most popular bus ride is along the Romantic Road, where special green-and-white buses carry tourists regularly from town to town. For more information, ask a travel agent or call Deutsche Touring GmbH, Am Römerhof 17, Frankfurt ( 069/7903501;www.touring.de).

By Boat

Perhaps Germany’s most beautiful features are its lakes and rivers. The mighty Rhine is the country’s most traveled waterway. German cruise ships also run on the Main River between Mainz and Frankfurt; on the Danube from Nürnberg to Linz (Austria), going on to Vienna and Budapest; and on the Mosel between Cochem and Trier.

To cruise the mythically rich rivers of Germany, especially the legendary Rhine, you can book cruises on the principal carrier, Viking River Cruises ( 800/304-9616 in the U.S., or 0800/319-6660 in the UK; www.vikingrivers.com).

Tips on Accommodations

In general, Germany has one of the highest standards of innkeeping in the world. Hotels range from five-star palaces of luxury and comfort to plain country inns and simple Gasthäuser (guesthouses), with a huge variation in rates. The cheapest accommodations are in Fremdenheime (pensions) or rooms in private homes (look for a sign saying ZIMMER FREI, meaning there are rooms for rent). Hotels listed as garni provide no meals other than breakfast.

Also, tourist offices will often book you into a room for a small charge. Obviously, the earlier you arrive in these offices, the more likely you are to get a good room at the price you want.

Surfing for Hotels

In addition to the online travel booking sites Travelocity, Expedia, Orbitz, Priceline, and Hotwire, you can book hotels through Hotels.com, Quikbook (www.quikbook.com), and Travelaxe (www.travelaxe.com).

HotelChatter.com is a daily webzine offering smart coverage and critiques of hotels worldwide. Go to TripAdvisor.com or HotelShark.com for helpful independent consumer reviews of hotels and resort properties.

It’s a good idea to get a confirmation number and make a printout of any online booking transaction.

Throughout Germany, as in many tourist centers worldwide, hotels routinely overbook, so booking by credit card doesn’t automatically hold your room if you arrive later than expected or after 6pm. The hotel clerk always asks when you expect to arrive, and the hotel usually holds the room until that time. Always pad your expected arrival by a few hours to be safe. However, all bets are off after 7pm, and the hotel is likely to give your room away unless you call and specifically ask them to hold it. If you’ve made a reservation very far in advance, confirm within 24 hours of your expected arrival. If you’re experiencing a major delay, alert the hotel as soon as you can.

Beware of billing. Readers report that sometimes in Germany they booked a room online (say, $100 a night) but were charged $125 when they checked out. Keep your online confirmation in case of a dispute.

Saving on Your Hotel Room

The rack rate is the maximum rate that a hotel charges for a room. Hardly anybody pays this price, however, except in high season or on holidays. To lower the cost of your room:

• Ask about special rates or other discounts. You may qualify for corporate, student, military, senior, frequent-flier, trade union, or other discounts.

• Dial direct. When booking a room in a chain hotel, you’ll often get a better deal by calling the individual hotel’s reservation desk rather than the chain’s main number.

• Book online. Many hotels offer Internet-only discounts, or supply rooms to Priceline, Hotwire, or Expedia at rates much lower than the ones you can get through the hotel itself.

• Remember the law of supply and demand. You can save big on hotel rooms by traveling in a destination’s off season or shoulder seasons, when rates typically drop, even at luxury properties.

• Look into group or long-stay discounts. If you come as part of a large group, you should be able to negotiate a bargain rate. Likewise, if you’re planning a long stay (at least 5 days), you might qualify for a discount. As a general rule, expect 1 night free after a 7-night stay.

• Sidestep excess surcharges and hidden costs. Many hotels have adopted the unpleasant practice of nickel-and-diming their guests with opaque surcharges. When you book a room, ask what is included in the room rate, and what is extra. Avoid dialing direct from hotel phones, which can have exorbitant rates. And don’t be tempted by the room’s minibar offerings: Most hotels charge through the nose for water, soda, and snacks. Finally, ask about local taxes and service charges, which can increase the cost of a room by 15% or more.

• Carefully consider your hotel’s meal plan. If you enjoy eating out and sampling the local cuisine, it makes sense to choose a Continental Plan (CP), which includes breakfast only, or a European Plan (EP), which doesn’t include any meals and allows you maximum flexibility. If you’re more interested in saving money, opt for a Modified American Plan (MAP), which includes breakfast and one meal, or the American Plan (AP), which includes three meals. If you must choose a MAP, see if you can get a free lunch at your hotel if you decide to do dinner out.

• Book an efficiency. A room with a kitchenette allows you to shop for groceries and cook your own meals. This is a big money saver, especially for families on long stays.

• Consider enrolling in hotel chains’ “frequent-stay” programs, which are upping the ante lately to win the loyalty of repeat customers. Frequent guests can now accumulate points or credits to earn free hotel nights, airline miles, in-room amenities, merchandise, tickets to concerts and events, discounts on sporting facilities—and even credit toward stock in the participating hotel, in the case of the Jameson Inn hotel group. Perks are awarded not only by many chain hotels and motels (Hilton HHonors, Marriott Rewards, and Wyndham ByRequest, to name a few), but by individual inns and B&Bs. Many chain hotels partner with other hotel chains, car-rental firms, airlines, and credit card companies to give consumers additional incentive to do repeat business.

For more tips on surfing for hotel deals online, visit Frommers.com.

Landing the Best Room

Somebody has to get the best room in the house. It might as well be you. You can start by joining the hotel’s frequent-guest program, which may make you eligible for upgrades. A hotel-branded credit card usually gives its owner “silver” or “gold” status in frequent-guest programs for free. Always ask about a corner room. They’re often larger and quieter, with more windows and light, and they often cost the same as standard rooms. When you make your reservation, ask if the hotel is renovating; if it is, request a room away from the construction. Ask about nonsmoking rooms and rooms with views. Be sure to request your choice of twin, queen-, or king-size beds. If you’re a light sleeper, ask for a quiet room away from vending or ice machines, elevators, restaurants, bars, and dance clubs. Ask for a room that has been recently renovated or refurbished.

If you aren’t happy with your room when you arrive, ask for another one. Most lodgings will be willing to accommodate you.

In resort areas, ask the following questions before you book a room:

• What’s the view like? Cost-conscious travelers may be willing to pay less for a back room facing the parking lot, especially if they don’t plan to spend much time in their room.

• Does the room have air-conditioning or ceiling fans? Do the windows open? If they do, and the nighttime entertainment takes place alfresco, you may want to find out when showtime is over.

• What’s included in the price? Your room may be moderately priced, but if you’re charged for beach chairs, towels, sports equipment, and other amenities, you could end up spending more than you bargained for.

B&B Stays

Many travelers prefer to go the B&B route when touring Germany. This can be an inexpensive alternative to all those pricey hotels. However, some B&Bs, just as in America, are more luxurious than even a first-class hotel. Naturally, these come with a higher price tag. Breakfast, as promised in the name, is served, and often the staff at a B&B will pack you a picnic lunch if you’re staying over in the area and want to go hiking. In some cases, and only if arranged in advance, a home-cooked German dinner might be served.

For reservations, contact Bed & Breakfast Inns Online ( 800/215-7365 or 310/280-4363; www.bbonline.com) or BnB Finder.com ( 888/547-8226 or 212/432-7693; www.bnbfinder.com).

Bungalow, Villa & Apartment Rentals

Dozens of agencies handle such rentals, the best of which include At Home Abroad, Inc. ( 212/421-9165;www.athomeabroadinc.com). Drawbridge to Europe ( 888/268-1148;www.drawbridgetoeurope.com) offers vacation rentals in Mittel Europa, including not only Germany but also Switzerland and Austria. The staff will even rent you a private castle. Interhome ( 800/882-6864 or 954/791-8282; www.interhomeusa.com) offers properties in 21 countries, including Germany.

Castle Hotels

There are more Schlosshotels (castle hotels) in Germany than anywhere else in Europe. After unification, many castles in the old East Germany were restored and opened to the public. Some are rather basic, having more character than comfort, but others are luxurious, with antiques such as four-poster beds and a baronial atmosphere, often harking back 3 centuries or more. Most of them have installed modern plumbing. Some visitors with a sense of the romantic book castle hotel packages throughout Germany. The best source for such vacations is Euro-Connections ( 800/645-3876 in the U.S.; www.traveldata.cc).

Farm Vacations

Growing in its appeal to tourists, a vacation down on the farm—Urlaub auf dem Bauernhof in German—cuts costs and is an adventure as well. Nearly every local tourist office has a list of farmhouses in its area that take in paying guests. Sometimes only bed-and-breakfast is offered; at other places a farm-style home-cooked dinner can be included if you wish. For more information, you can contact DLG (German Agricultural Association) at 069/247880 (www.landtourismus.de).

House Swapping

House swapping is becoming a more popular and viable means of travel; you stay in their place, they stay in yours, and you both get a more authentic and personal view of a destination, the opposite of the escapist retreat many hotels offer. Try HomeLink International (www.homelink.org), the largest and oldest home-swapping organization, founded in 1952, with more than 11,000 listings worldwide ($115 yearly membership). HomeExchange.com ($9.95 a month for 6,000 listings) and InterVac.com ($100 for more than 10,000 listings) are also reliable.

Romantik Hotels

Throughout Germany you’ll encounter hotels with a “Romantik” in their names. This is not a chain, but a voluntary association of small inns and guesthouses that have only one theme in common: They are usually old and charming, and romantic in architecture. If you like a traditional ambience as opposed to bandbox modern, then a Romantik hotel might be for you. The requirement is that the hotel be in a historic building (or at least one of vintage date) and personally managed by the owner. Usually you get a regional cuisine and good, personal service, along with an old-fashioned setting and cozy charm. Sometimes the plumbing could be better, and standards of comfort vary widely, but all of them have been inspected.

For more information, contact Romantik Hotels and Restaurants ( 800/650-8018 in the U.S., or 069/6612340 in Germany; www.romantikhotels.com).

Spa Hotels

More than any other country in Europe, Germany has developed the spa process to a high art. The heyday of German spa construction coincided with the rise of the bourgeoisie in the 19th century, when a lavish series of resorts was built around the dozens of mineral springs bubbling from the soil. Many of these springs had been known since the Middle Ages, or even Roman times, and to each was attributed specific cures for arthritis, gout, infertility, hypertension, and gynecological problems. (The German word Kur—Kurort means “spa”—is derived from the Latin cura, meaning “care.”) Going to a spa became an intensely ritualized social experience.

Regardless of the various medical claims made at the spas of Germany, the real reason to go to any spa, in our view, is to momentarily escape the stress of everyday life.

For more information, contact Deutschen Heilbaderverbandes, Reinhardtstrasse 46, 10117 Berlin ( 030/2463629-0;www.deutscher-heilbaederverband.de).

Youth Hostels

Germany has some of the best and most modern youth hostels (Jugendherbergen) in the world—some 550 of them are scattered throughout the country. Reservations are imperative in all cases, but especially in July and August. Venues range from rather bleak modern buildings to old castles in bucolic settings.

For more information and requirements, contact DJH Service GmbH, Bismarckstrasse 8, 32756 Detmold ( 05231/74010;www.jugendherberge.de). Most hostels in Germany are affiliated with Hostelling International USA ( 301/495-1240;www.hiusa.org).

Fast Facts

Business Hours Most banks are open Monday to Friday 8:30am to 1pm and 2:30 to 4pm (Thurs to 5:30pm). Money exchanges at airports and border-crossing points are generally open daily from 6am to 10pm. Exchanges at border railroad stations are kept open for arrivals of all international trains. Most businesses are open Monday to Friday from 9am to 5pm and on Saturday from 9am to 1pm. Store hours can vary from town to town, but shops are generally open Monday to Friday 9 or 10am to 6 or 6:30pm (Thurs to 8:30pm). Saturday hours are generally from 9am to 1 or 2pm, except on the first Saturday of the month, when stores may remain open until 4pm.

Car Rental See “By Car” under “Getting Around,” earlier in this chapter.

Cellphones See “Mobile Phones,” later.

Crime See “Safety,” later.

Customs You can take into Germany most personal effects and the following items duty-free: one video camera or two still cameras with 10 rolls of film each; a portable radio, a tape recorder, and a laptop PC, provided they show signs of use; 400 cigarettes, 50 cigars, or 250 grams of tobacco; 2 liters of wine or 1 liter of liquor per person 18 and over; fishing gear; one bicycle; skis; tennis or squash racquets; and golf clubs.

Returning U.S. citizens who have been away for at least 48 hours can bring back, once every 30 days, US$800 worth of merchandise duty-free. You’ll be charged a flat rate of 4% duty on the next US$1,000 worth of purchases. Be sure to have your receipts handy. On mailed gifts, the duty-free limit is US$200. With some exceptions, you cannot bring fresh fruits and vegetables into the United States. For specifics on what you can bring back, download the invaluable free pamphlet Know Before You Go online at www.cbp.gov. Or contact the U.S. Customs & Border Protection (CBP), 1300 Pennsylvania Ave. NW, Washington, DC 20229 ( 877/287-8667), and request the pamphlet.

For a clear summary of Canadian rules, you can download the booklet I Declare at www.cbsa-asfc.gc.ca/publications. It is issued by Canada Border Services Agency ( 800/461-9999 in Canada, or 204/983-3500; www.cbsa-asfc.gc.ca). Canada allows a C$750 exemption, which can be used only once a year and only after an absence of 7 days. You’re allowed to bring back duty-free one carton of cigarettes, one can of tobacco, 40 imperial ounces of liquor, and 50 cigars. In addition, you’re allowed to mail gifts to Canada valued at less than C$60 a day, provided they’re unsolicited and don’t contain alcohol or tobacco (write on the package “Unsolicited gift, under C$60 value”). You should declare all valuables on the Y-38 form before departing Canada, including serial numbers of valuables you already own, such as expensive foreign cameras.

Citizens of the U.K. who are returning from an E.U. country will go through a separate Customs exit (called the “Blue Exit”). In essence, there is no limit on what you can bring back from an E.U. country, as long as the items are for personal use (including gifts) and you have already paid the necessary duty and tax. However, Customs law sets out guidance levels. If you bring in more than these levels, you may be asked to prove that the goods are for your use. Guidance levels on goods bought in the E.U. for your own use are 3,200 cigarettes, 200 cigars, 400 cigarillos, 3 kilograms of smoking tobacco, 10 liters of spirits, 90 liters of wine, 20 liters of fortified wine (such as port or sherry), and 110 liters of beer. For information, contact HM Revenue Customs at 0845/0109000 ( 02920/501261 from outside the U.K.), or consult their website at www.hmrc.gov.uk.

The duty-free allowance in Australia is A$900 or, for those 17 and under, A$450. Citizens can bring in 250 cigarettes or 250 grams of loose tobacco, and 2.25 liters of alcohol. If you’re returning with valuables you already own, such as foreign-made cameras, you should file form B263. A helpful brochure available from Australian consulates or Customs offices is Know Before You Go. For more information, call the Australian Customs Service at 1300/363263, or log on to www.customs.gov.au

The duty-free allowance for New Zealand is NZ$700. Citizens 18 and over can bring in 200 cigarettes, 50 cigars, or 250 grams of tobacco (or a mixture of all three if their combined weight doesn’t exceed 250g); plus 4.5 liters of wine and beer, or 1.125 milliliters of liquor. New Zealand currency does not carry import or export restrictions. Fill out a certificate of export, listing the valuables you are taking out of the country, so you can bring them back without paying duty. Most questions are answered in a free pamphlet available at New Zealand consulates and Customs offices: New Zealand Customs Guide for Travellers, Notice no. 4. For more information, contact New Zealand Customs Service, The Customhouse, 17–21 Whitmore St., Box 2218, Wellington ( 0800/428786 or 04/4736099 in New Zealand, or 04/4736099; www.customs.govt.nz).

Disabled Travelers Germany is one of the better countries for travelers with disabilities. All the large cities have excellent facilities. The local tourist offices can issue permits for drivers to allow them access to parking areas for people with disabilities. Newer hotels are more sensitive to the needs of those with disabilities, and the more expensive restaurants, in general, are wheelchair accessible.

Older, smaller towns may pose more of a problem, however, especially where the streets are cobblestone. Also, because of Germany’s many hills and endless flights of stairs, visitors with disabilities may have difficulty getting around outside of major cities, but conditions are slowly improving. If the areas you wish to visit seem inaccessible or you are not certain, you may want to consider taking an organized tour specifically designed to accommodate travelers with disabilities.

Organizations that offer assistance to travelers with disabilities include MossRehab ( 800/225-5667;www.mossresourcenet.org), which provides a library of accessible-travel resources online; Society for Accessible Travel & Hospitality (SATH; 212/447-7284;www.sath.org), which offers a wealth of travel resources for all types of disabilities and informed recommendations on destinations, access guides, travel agents, tour operators, vehicle rentals, and companion services; and the American Foundation for the Blind (AFB; 800/232-5463 or 212/502-7600; www.afb.org), a referral resource for those who are blind or visually impaired that provides information on traveling with Seeing Eye dogs.

Air Ambulance Card ( 877/4247633;www.airambulancecard.com) is now partnered with SATH and allows you to preselect top-notch hospitals in case of an emergency.

Access-Able Travel Source ( 303/232-2979;www.access-able.com) offers a comprehensive database on travel agents from around the world with experience in accessible travel; destination-specific access information; and links to such resources as service animals, equipment rentals, and access guides.

Many travel agencies offer customized tours and itineraries for travelers with disabilities. Among them are Flying Wheels Travel ( 507/451-5005;www.flyingwheelstravel.com) and Accessible Journeys ( 800/846-4537 or 610/521-0339; www.disabilitytravel.com).

Flying with Disability (www.flying-with-disability.org) is a comprehensive information source on airplane travel.

Also check out the quarterly magazine Emerging Horizons (www.emerginghorizons.com), available by subscription ($17 per year in the U.S.; $22 outside the U.S.).

The “Accessible Travel” link at Mobility-Advisor.com (www.mobility-advisor.com) offers a variety of travel resources to persons with disabilities.

British travelers should contact Holiday Care ( 0845/124-9971 in the U.K. only; www.holidaycare.org.uk) to access a wide range of travel information and resources for seniors and people with disabilities.

For more on organizations that offer resources to travelers with disabilities, go to Frommers.com.

Doctors Contact the International Association for Medical Assistance to Travelers (IAMAT; 716/754-4883 or 416/652-0137; www.iamat.org) for tips on travel and health concerns in Germany and lists of local, English-speaking doctors. You can find listings of reliable medical clinics in Germany at the International Society of Travel Medicine (www.istm.org).

Drinking Laws As in many European countries, drinking laws are flexible, enforced only if a problem develops. Officially, you must be 18 to consume any kind of alcoholic beverage. Bars and cafes rarely request proof of age. Drinking while driving, however, is treated as a very serious offense.

Driving Rules See “Getting Around,” earlier in this chapter.

Electricity In most places, the electricity is 220 volts AC (50 cycles). You will need a transformer and a plug that fits the German socket for your U.S. appliances. Many leading hotels will supply these.

Embassies & Consulates The following embassies and consulates are in Berlin. The embassy of the United States is at Pariser Platz 2 ( 030/83050;http://germany.usembassy.gov; U-Bahn: Brandenburger Tor), open Monday to Friday 8:30am to 3pm. The U.K. Embassy is at Wilhelmstrasse 70 ( 030/204570;http://ukingermany.fco.gov.uk/de; U-Bahn: Anhalter Bahnhof), open Monday to Friday 8am to 4:30pm. The Australian Embassy is at Wallstrasse 76–79 ( 030/8800880;www.germany.embassy.gov.au/beln/home.html; U-Bahn: Spittel-markt), open Monday to Thursday 8:30am to 5pm and Friday 8:30am to 4:15pm. The Canadian Embassy is at Leipziger Platz 17 ( 030/203120;www.canadainternational.gc.ca; U-Bahn: Potsdamer Platz), open Monday to Friday 9am to noon. The Irish Embassy is at Friedrichstrasse 200 ( 030/220720;www.embassyofireland.de; U-Bahn: Uhlandstrasse), open Monday to Friday 9:30am to noon and 2:30 to 3:45pm. The New Zealand Embassy is at Friedrichstrasse 60 ( 030/206210;www.nzembassy.com; U-Bahn: Friedrichstrasse), open Monday to Friday 9am to 1pm and 2 to 5:30pm.

Emergencies Throughout Germany the emergency number for police is 110; for fire or to call an ambulance, dial 112.

Family Travel To locate accommodations, restaurants, and attractions that are particularly kid-friendly, look for the “Kids” icon throughout this guide.

Health Germany should not pose any major health hazards. The heavy cuisine may give some travelers mild diarrhea, so take along some antidiarrhea medicine and moderate your eating habits. The water is safe to drink throughout Germany; however, don’t drink from mountain streams, no matter how clear and pure the water looks.

German medical facilities are among the best in the world. If a medical emergency arises, your hotel staff can usually put you in touch with a reliable doctor. If not, contact the American embassy or a consulate; each one maintains a list of English-speaking doctors. Medical and hospital services aren’t free, so be sure that you have appropriate insurance coverage before you travel.

If you suffer from a chronic illness, consult your doctor before your departure. Pack prescription medications in your carry-on luggage and carry them in their original containers, with pharmacy labels—otherwise they won’t make it through airport security. Carry the generic name of prescription medicines, in case a local pharmacist is unfamiliar with the brand name.

For conditions such as epilepsy, diabetes, or heart problems, wear a MedicAlert Identification Tag ( 888/633-4298;www.medicalert.org), which will immediately alert doctors to your condition and give them access to your records through MedicAlert’s 24-hour hot line.

Insurance For travel overseas, most U.S. health plans (including Medicare and Medicaid) do not provide coverage, and the ones that do often require you to pay for services upfront and reimburse you only after you return home.

As a safety net, you may want to buy travel medical insurance. If you require additional medical insurance, try MEDEX Assistance ( 800/732-5309 or 410/453-6300;www.medexassist.com) or Travel Assistance International ( 800/821-2828;www.travelassistance.com; for general information on services, call Worldwide Assistance Services, Inc. at 800/777-8710;www.worldwideassistance.com).

Canadians should check with their provincial health-plan offices or call Health Canada ( 866/225-0709;www.hc-sc.gc.ca) to find out the extent of their coverage and what documentation and receipts they must take home if they are treated overseas.

Travelers from the U.K. should carry their European Health Insurance Card (EHIC), which replaced the E111 form as proof of entitlement to free/reduced-cost medical treatment abroad ( 0845/605-0707;www.ehic.org.uk). Note, however, that the EHIC covers only “necessary medical treatment”; for repatriation costs, lost money, baggage, or cancellation, travel insurance from a reputable company should always be sought. Call 0870/033-9985 or visit www.travelinsuranceweb.com for quotes from several companies.

Travel Insurance The cost of travel insurance varies widely, depending on the destination, the cost and length of your trip, your age and health, and the type of trip you’re taking, but expect to pay between 5% and 8% of the vacation itself. You can get estimates from various providers through InsureMyTrip.com ( 800/487-4722). Enter your trip cost and dates, your age, and other information, for prices from more than a dozen companies.

U.K. citizens and their families who make more than one trip abroad per year may find that an annual travel insurance policy works out cheaper. Check www.moneysupermarket.com ( 0845/345-5708), which compares prices across a wide range of providers for single- and multitrip policies.

Most big travel agents offer their own insurance and will probably try to sell you their package when you book a holiday. Think before you sign. Britain’s Consumers’ Association recommends that you insist on seeing the policy and reading the fine print before buying travel insurance. The Association of British Insurers ( 020/7600-3333;www.abi.org.uk) gives advice by phone and publishes “Holiday Insurance,” a free guide to policy provisions and prices. You might also shop around for better deals: Try Columbus Direct ( 0870/033-9988;www.columbusdirect.net).

Trip-Cancellation Insurance Trip-cancellation insurance will help retrieve your money if you have to back out of a trip or depart early, or if your travel supplier goes bankrupt. Trip cancellation traditionally covers such events as sickness, natural disasters, and State Department advisories. The latest news in trip-cancellation insurance is the availability of expanded hurricane coverage and the “any-reason” cancellation coverage—which costs more but covers cancellations made for any reason. You won’t get back 100% of your prepaid trip cost, but you’ll be refunded a substantial portion. TravelSafe ( 888/885-7233;www.travelsafe.com) offers both types of coverage. Expedia also offers any-reason cancellation coverage for its air-hotel packages. For details, contact one of the following recommended insurers: Access America ( 800/284-8300; www.accessamerica.com), Travel Guard International ( 800/826-4919; www.travelguard.com), Travel Insured International ( 800/243-3174; www.travelinsured.com), and Travelex Insurance Services ( 800/228-9792; www.travelex-insurance.com).

Internet & Wi-Fi Many hotels, cafes, and retailers are signing on as Wi-Fi “hot spots.” Boingo (www.boingo.com) and Wayport (wayport.com) have set up networks in airports and high-class hotel lobbies. IPass providers (see below) also give you access to a few hundred wireless hotel lobby setups. To locate other hot spots that provide free wireless networks in cities in Germany, go to www.jiwire.com.

A few thousand hotels in Germany now offer free high-speed Internet access. In addition, major Internet service providers (ISPs) have local access numbers around the world, allowing you to go online by placing a local call. The iPass network also has dial-up numbers around the world. You’ll have to sign up with an iPass provider, who will then tell you how to set up your computer for your destination(s). For a list of iPass providers, go to www3.ipass.com and click on “Individuals Buy Now.” One solid provider is i2roam ( 866/811-6209 or 920/233-5863; www.i2roam.com).

To find cybercafes, check www.cybercaptive.com and www.cybercafe.com. Cybercafes can be found on almost every business street in large cities.

Aside from formal cybercafes, most youth hostels and public libraries have Internet access.

Language German, of course, is the official language, but English is widely understood. Germans start learning English in grade school.

LGBT Travelers Although Germany is one of the “gayest” countries of Europe, there is also prejudice and hostility here. Violence against gays and foreigners (especially nonwhite) is not unknown. On the other hand, homosexuality is widely accepted by a vast number of the country’s millions, especially young people. All major cities have a wide and varied gay and lesbian nightlife. Keep in mind that western Germany is far more gay-friendly than the more isolated outposts of the former East Germany. The legal minimum age for consensual homosexual sex is 18.

The International Gay and Lesbian Travel Association (IGLTA; 954/630-1637;www.iglta.org) is the trade association for the gay and lesbian travel industry and offers an online directory of gay- and lesbian-friendly travel businesses; go to its website and click on “Members.”

Many agencies offer tours and travel itineraries designed specifically for gay and lesbian travelers. Now, Voyager ( 800/255-6951;www.nowvoyager.com) is a well-known San Francisco–based gay-owned and -operated travel service. Olivia Cruises & Resorts ( 800/631-6277;www.olivia.com) charters entire resorts and ships for exclusive lesbian vacations and offers smaller group experiences for both gay and lesbian travelers. Gay.com ( 415/834-6500;http://daily.gay.com/travel) provides regularly updated information about gay-owned, gay-oriented, and gay-friendly lodging, dining, sightseeing, nightlife, and shopping establishments in every important destination worldwide.

The Canadian website GayTraveler (www.gaytraveler.ca) offers ideas and advice for gay travel all over the world.

The following travel guides are available at many bookstores, or you can order them from any online bookseller: Spartacus International Gay Guide, 38th edition (Bruno Gmünder Verlag; www.spartacusworld.com/gayguide); and the Damron guides (www.damron.com), with separate annual books for gay men and lesbians.

For more gay and lesbian travel resources, visit Frommers.com.

Mail Street mailboxes are painted yellow. It costs 1.70€ for the first 5 grams (about 1⁄5 oz.) to send an airmail letter to the United States or Canada, and 1€ for postcards. All letters to the U.K. cost .70€.

Medical Requirements Unless you’re arriving from an area known to be suffering from an epidemic (particularly cholera or yellow fever), inoculations or vaccinations are not required for entry into Germany.

Mobile Phones The three letters that define much of the world’s wireless capabilities are GSM, which stands for Global System for Mobiles, a big, seamless network that makes for easy cross-border cellphone use. In general, reception is good. But you’ll need a Subscriber Identity Module (SIM) card. This is a small chip that gives you a local phone number and plugs you into a regional network. In the U.S., T-Mobile and AT&T Wireless use this quasi-universal system; in Canada, Microcell and some Rogers customers are GSM, and all Europeans and most Australians use GSM. Unfortunately, per-minute charges can be high.

For many, renting a phone is a good idea. While you can rent a phone from any number of overseas sites, including kiosks at airports and at car-rental agencies, we suggest renting the phone before you leave home. North Americans can rent one before leaving home from InTouch USA ( 800/872-7626 or 703/222-7161; www.intouchglobal.com) or RoadPost ( 888/290-1616 or 905/272-5665; www.roadpost.com). InTouch will also, for free, advise you on whether your existing phone will work overseas.

Buying a phone can be economically attractive, as many nations have cheap prepaid phone systems. Once you arrive at your destination, stop by a local cellphone shop and get the cheapest package; you’ll probably pay less than $100 for a phone and a starter calling card. Local calls may be as low as 10¢ per minute, and in Germany incoming calls are free.

Money & Costs The euro (€) is the single European currency of Germany and other participating countries. Exchange rates of participating countries are locked into a common currency fluctuating against the dollar.

The major cities of Germany are some of the world’s most expensive. So, if you want to see the country without breaking the bank, you may want to cut short your time in Frankfurt, Munich, or Berlin and concentrate on regional capitals such as Freiburg in the Black Forest, where you can cut your travel cost by anywhere from 20% to 40%. You may also want to consider a rail pass.

Although prices in Germany are high, you generally get good value for your money. The inflation rate has remained low. Hotels are usually clean and comfortable, and restaurants generally offer good cuisine and ample portions made with quality ingredients. Trains are fast and on time, and most service personnel treat you with respect.

Many people come to Germany just for winter sports. The most expensive resorts are places like Garmisch-Partenkirchen. However, if you avoid the chic places, you can enjoy winter fun at a moderate cost. Some of the winter spots in the Bavarian Alps that haven’t been overrun by the beautiful people give you great value for your money. And prices in a village next to a resort are often 30% lower than at the resort itself.

In Germany, many prices for children (generally defined as ages 6–17) are considerably lower than for adults. And fees for children 5 and younger are often waived entirely.

Frommer’s lists exact prices in the local currency. The currency conversions quoted above were correct at press time. However, rates fluctuate, so before departing consult a currency exchange website such as www.oanda.com/currency/converter to check up-to-the-minute rates.

ATMs The easiest way to get cash away from home is from an ATM (automated teller machine), sometimes referred to as a Geldautomat. Note: Remember that many banks impose a fee every time you use a card at another bank’s ATM, and that fee can be higher for international transactions. In addition, the bank from which you withdraw cash may charge its own fee. For international withdrawal fees, ask your bank.

Note: Banks that are members of the Global ATM Alliance charge no transaction fees for cash withdrawals at other Alliance member ATMs; these include Bank of America, Scotiabank (Canada, Caribbean, and Mexico), Barclays (U.K. and parts of Africa), Deutsche Bank (Germany, Poland, Spain, and Italy), and BNP Paribas (France).

Credit Cards Credit cards are another safe way to carry money. They also provide a convenient record of all your expenses, and they generally offer relatively good exchange rates. You can withdraw cash advances from your credit cards at banks or ATMs, but high fees make credit card cash advances a pricey way to get cash. Remember that you’ll pay interest from the moment of your withdrawal, even if you pay your monthly bills on time. Also, note that many banks now assess a 1% to 3% “transaction fee” on all charges you incur abroad (whether you’re using the local currency or your native currency).

In Germany, American Express, Diners Club, MasterCard, and Visa are commonly accepted, with the latter two cards predominating.

Beware of hidden credit-card fees while traveling. Check with your credit or debit card issuer to see what fees, if any, will be charged for overseas transactions. Recent reform legislation in the U.S., for example, has curbed some exploitative lending practices. But many banks have responded by increasing fees in other areas, including fees for customers who use credit and debit cards while out of the country—even if those charges were made in U.S. dollars. Fees can amount to 3% or more of the purchase price. Check with your bank before departing to avoid any surprise charges on your statement.

For help with currency conversions, tip calculations, and more, download Frommer’s convenient Travel Tools app for your mobile device. Go to www.frommers.com/go/mobile and click on the “Travel Tools” icon.

Passports Visas are not needed by citizens of the U.S., Canada, Ireland, Australia, New Zealand, or the U.K. for visits of less than 3 months. You do need a valid passport, unless you’re a citizen of the E.U., EEA or Switzerland (in which case you need only an identity card, though we recommend you always carry a passport anyway).

Passport Offices

Australia Australian Passport Information Service ( 131-232, or visit www.passports.gov.au).

Canada Passport Office, Department of Foreign Affairs and International Trade, Ottawa, ON K1A 0G3 ( 800/567-6868; www.ppt.gc.ca).

Ireland Passport Office, Setanta Centre, Molesworth Street, Dublin 2 ( 01/671-1633; www.foreignaffairs.gov.ie).

New Zealand Passports Office, Department of Internal Affairs, 47 Boulcott Street, Wellington, 6011 ( 0800/225-050 in New Zealand or 04/474-8100; www.passports.govt.nz).

United Kingdom Visit your nearest passport office, major post office, or travel agency or contact the Identity and Passport Service (IPS), 89 Eccleston Square, London, SW1V 1PN ( 0300/222-0000; www.ips.gov.uk).

United States To find your regional passport office, check the U.S. State Department website (travel.state.gov/passport) or call the National Passport Information Center ( 877/487-2778) for automated information.

Police Throughout the country, dial 110 for emergencies.

Safety Overall, the security risk to travelers in Germany is low. However, Germany experiences a number of demonstrations every year on a variety of political and economic themes. These demonstrations have a tendency to spread and turn violent, and anyone in the general area can become the victim of a random attack. Prior police approval is required for public demonstrations in Germany, and police oversight is routinely provided to ensure adequate security for participants and passersby. Nonetheless, situations may develop that could pose a threat to public safety. All foreign visitors are cautioned to avoid the area around protests and demonstrations and to check local media for updates on the situation.

In addition, hooligans, most often young and intoxicated “skinheads,” have been known to harass or even attack people whom they believe to be foreigners or members of rival youth groups. While U.S. citizens have not been specific targets, several Americans have reported that they were assaulted for racial reasons or because they appeared “foreign.”

Violent crime is rare in Germany, but it can occur, especially in larger cities or high-risk areas such as train stations. Most incidents of street crime consist of theft of unattended items and pickpocketing. You should take the same precautions against becoming a crime victim as you would in any city.

Report the loss or theft abroad of your passport immediately to the local police and the nearest embassy or consulate. If you are the victim of a crime while in Germany, in addition to reporting to local police, contact the nearest embassy or consulate for assistance. The embassy/consulate staff, for example, can assist you in finding appropriate medical care, contacting family members or friends, and explaining how funds could be transferred. Although the investigation and prosecution of the crime is solely the responsibility of local authorities, consular officers can help you understand the local criminal-justice process and find an attorney if needed.

Senior Travel Mention that you’re a senior when you make your travel reservations. Although all major U.S. airlines have canceled their senior-discount and coupon-book programs, many hotels still offer discounts for seniors. In most cities, people 60 and over qualify for reduced admission to theaters, museums, and other attractions, as well as discounted fares on public transportation.

Members of AARP, 601 E St. NW, Washington, DC 20049 ( 888/687-2277;www.aarp.org), get discounts on hotels, airfares, and car rentals. AARP offers members a wide range of benefits, including AARP The Magazine and a monthly newsletter. Anyone 50 and over can join.

Many reliable agencies and organizations target the 50-plus market. Exploritas’s ( 800/454-5768;www.exploritas.org) programs include a wide spectrum in Germany. The most popular is a 10-night program in both Berlin and Munich, where participants join local experts to learn about the history and culture of Germany. For the more athletic, there is a 13-night program spent biking along the Danube. Those interested in opera and classical music can join a 12-night cultural and fine arts program that takes place in the vibrant cultural cities of Berlin, Dresden, and Leipzig.

Recommended publications offering travel resources and discounts for seniors include the quarterly magazine Travel 50 & Beyond (www.travel50andbeyond.com) and the best-selling paperback Unbelievably Good Deals and Great Adventures That You Absolutely Can’t Get Unless You’re Over 50 (McGraw-Hill), by Joann Rattner Heilman.

Frommers.com offers more information and resources on travel for seniors

Smoking Check before lighting up. In general, you cannot smoke in most restaurants and many bars in Germany, but it is in a continuous state of flux and rules vary by federal state—in some cases smoking is banned by law and enforced. In other cases the official law is not enforced in bars of a certain size, or after the kitchen closes at restaurants that are open late and morph into a barlike setting as the night goes on. Throughout the country, smoking is banned in all public buildings and transport.

Taxes As a member of the European Union, Germany imposes a tax on most goods and services known as a value-added tax (VAT) or, in German, Mehrwertsteuer. Nearly everything is taxed at 16%, including vital necessities such as gas and luxury items such as jewelry. Food and books are taxed at 7%. VAT is included in the prices of restaurants and hotels. Goods for sale, such as cameras, also have the 16% tax already factored into the price. Stores that display a tax-free sticker will issue you a Tax-Free Shopping Check at the time of purchase. When leaving the country, have your check stamped by the German Customs Service as your proof of legal export. You can then get a cash refund at one of the Tax-Free Shopping Service offices in the major airports and many train stations, even at some of the bigger ferry terminals. Otherwise, you must send the checks to Tax-Free Shopping Service, Mengstrasse 19, 23552 Lübeck, Germany. If you want the payment to be credited to your bank card or your bank account, mention this. There is no airport departure tax.

Telephones The country code for Germany is 49. To call Germany from the United States, dial the international access code 011, then 49, then the city code, then the regular phone number. Note: The phone numbers listed in this book are to be used within Germany; when calling from abroad, omit the initial 0 in the city code.

For directory assistance: Dial 11837 if you’re looking for a number inside Germany, and dial 11834 for numbers to all other countries.

For operator assistance: If you need operator assistance in making a call, dial 0180/200-1033.

Local and long-distance calls may be placed from all post offices and from most public telephone booths, about half of which operate with phone cards, the others with coins. Phone cards are sold at post offices and newsstands in denominations of 6€ to 25€. Rates are measured in units rather than minutes. The farther the distance, the more units are consumed. Telephone calls made through hotel switchboards can double, triple, or even quadruple the base charges at the post office, so be alert to this before you dial. In some instances, post offices can send faxes for you, and many hotels offer Internet access—for free or for a small charge—to their guests.

German phone numbers are not standard. In some places, numbers have as few as three digits. In cities, one number may have five digits, whereas the phone next door might have nine. Germans also often hyphenate their numbers differently. But since all the area codes are the same, these various configurations should have little effect on your phone usage once you get used to the fact that numbers vary from place to place.

Be careful dialing toll-free numbers. Many companies maintain a service line beginning with 0180. However, these lines might appear to be toll-free but really aren’t, costing .12€ per minute. Other numbers that begin with 0190 carry a surcharge of 1.85€ per minute—or even more. Don’t be misled by calling a 1-800 number in the United States from Germany. This is not a toll-free call but costs about the same as an overseas call.

To call the U.S. or Canada from Germany, dial 01, followed by the country code (1), then the area code, and then the number. Alternatively, you can dial the various telecommunication companies in the States for cheaper rates. From Germany, the access number for AT&T is 0800/8880010, and for MCI, 0800/8888000. USA Direct can be used with all telephone cards and for collect calls. The number from Germany is 013/00010. Canada Direct can be used with Bell Telephone Cards and for collect calls. This number from Germany is 013/00014.

If you’re calling from a public pay phone in Germany, you must deposit the basic local rate.

Tipping If a restaurant bill says Bedienung, that means a service charge has already been added, so just round up to the nearest euro. If not, add 10% to 15%. Bellhops get 1€ per bag, as does the doorperson at your hotel, restaurant, or nightclub. Room-cleaning staffs get small tips in Germany, as do concierges who perform some special favors.

Toilets Use the word Toilette (pronounced twah-leh-tah). Women’s toilets are usually marked with an F for Frauen, and men’s toilets with an H for Herren. Germany, frankly, doesn’t have enough public toilets, except in transportation centers. The locals have to rely on bars, cafes, or restaurants—and using them isn’t always appreciated if you’re not a paying customer.

VAT See “Taxes,” above.

Visas See “Passports,” above.

Visitor Information All cities and nearly all larger towns in Germany have tourist offices. The German National Tourist Board headquarters is at Beethovenstrasse 69, 60325 Frankfurt am Main ( 069/751903;www.germany-tourism.de or www.cometogermany.com).

In the U.S., they can be reached at 122 E. 42nd St., Ste. 2000, New York, NY 10017 ( 212/661-7200).

In Canada, tourist offices are at 480 University Ave., Ste. 1500, Toronto, ON M5G 1V2 ( 877/315-6237 or 416/968-1685). In the U.K., you can write P.O. Box 2695, London W1A ETN ( 020/7317-0808).

Water See “Health,” earlier.

Wi-Fi See “Internet & Wi-Fi,” earlier.

Useful Terms & Phrases

Getting There & Getting Around

I am looking for… Ich suche…

…a porter. …einen Träger für mein Gepäck.

…the check-in counter. …den Abfertigungsschalter.

…the ticket counter. …den Kartenschalter.

…arrivals. …den Ankunftsbereich.

…departures. …den Abreisebereich.

…the waiting area. …den Wartebereich.

…the men’s restroom. …die Herrentoilette.

…the women’s restroom. …die Damentoilette.

…the police station. …die Polizeidienststelle.

…a security guard. …einen Sicherheitsbeamten.

…the smoking area. …den Raucherbereich.

…the information booth. …den Informationsstand.

…a public telephone. …ein öffentliches Telefon.

…an ATM. …einen Geldautomaten.

…baggage claim. …die Gepäckausgabe.

…a luggage cart. …einen Gepäckwagen.

…a currency exchange. …eine Geldwechselstube.

…a café. …ein Café.

…a restaurant. …ein Restaurant.

…a bar. …eine Bar.

…a bookstore or newsstand. eine Buchhandlung oder einen Zeitungsstand.

…a duty-free shop. …einen Duty-Free-Shop.

Is there Internet access here? Gibt es hier einen Internetzugang?

I’d like to page someone. Ich möchte jemanden ausrufen lassen.

Do you accept credit cards? Akzeptieren Sie Kreditkarten?

Common Airport Signs

Ankunft Arrivals

Abreise Departures

Terminal Terminal

Gate Gate

Tickets Ticketing

Zoll Customs

Gepäckausgabe Baggage Claim

Drücken Push

Ziehen Pull

Rauchen verboten No Smoking

Eingang Entrance

Ausgang Exit

Herren Men’s

Damen Women’s

Pendelbusse Shuttle Buses

Taxis Taxis

Security Lingo

Bitte ziehen Sie Ihre Schuhe aus. Please remove your shoes.

Ziehen Sie Ihre Jacke aus. Remove your jacket / sweater.

Legen Sie Ihren Schmuck ab. Remove your jewelry.

Legen Sie Ihre Taschen auf das Band. Place your bags on the conveyor belt.

Treten Sie zur Seite. Step to the side.

Wir müssen Sie abtasten. We have to do a hand search.

Road Signs

Geschwindigkeitsbegrenzung Speed Limit

Stopp Stop

Vorfahrt gewähren Yield

Gefahr Danger

Sackgasse No Exit

Einbahnstrasse One Way

Einfahrt verboten Do Not Enter

Strasse gesperrt Road Closed

Maut Toll

Nur Bargeld Cash Only

Parken verboten No Parking

Parkgebühr Parking Fee

Parkhaus Parking Garage

General Terms

Basic Greetings & Expressions

Hello. Hallo.

How are you? Wie geht es Ihnen?

I’m fine, thanks. Mir geht es gut, danke.

And you? Und Ihnen?

My name is ____. Ich heiße ____.

And yours? Wie heißen Sie?

It’s a pleasure to meet you. Freut mich, Sie kennen zu lernen.

Please. Bitte.

Thank you. Danke.

Yes. Ja.

No. Nein.

Okay. OK.

No problem. Kein Problem.

I’m sorry, I don’t understand. Entschuldigung, ich verstehe Sie nicht.

Would you speak slower please? Könnten Sie bitte etwas langsamer sprechen?

Would you speak louder please? Könnten Sie bitte etwas lauter sprechen?

Do you speak English? Sprechen Sie Englisch?

Do you speak any other languages? Sprechen Sie irgendeine andere Sprache?

I speak ____ better than German. Ich spreche besser ____ als Deutsch.

Would you spell that? Könnten Sie das bitte buchstabieren?

Would you please repeat that? Könnten Sie das bitte wiederholen?

Would you point that out in this dictionary? Könnten Sie mir das bitte in diesem Wörterbuch zeigen?

Common Words

Allee Avenue

Altes Rathaus Old town hall (a historical monument; no longer used as the headquarters of the city’s officials)

Altstadt Old part of a city or town

Anlage Park area

Apotheke Pharmacy

Auf Wiedersehen Goodbye

Ausgang Exit

Bad Spa (also bath)

Bahn Railroad, train, course

Bahnhof Railroad station

Berg Mountain

Bitte Please

Brücke Bridge

Burg Fortified castle

Danke Thank you

Dom Cathedral

Domplatz Cathedral square

Drogerie Shop selling cosmetics, sundries

Eingang/Einfahrt Entrance

Eintritt Admission

Fahrrad Bicycle

Flughafen Airport

Gasse Lane

Gasthaus Inn, tavern, restaurant

Gasthof Inn

Gutbürgerliche Küche German home cooking

Hallo Hello

Hauptbahnhof Main railroad station

Hotelgarni Hotel that serves no meals or serves breakfast only

Insel Island

Kammer Room (in public building)

Kapelle Chapel

Kaufhaus Department store

Kino Cinema

Kirche Church

Kloster Monastery

Kneipe Bar for drinking; may serve snacks

Konditorei Cafe for coffee and pastries

Kunst Art

Land State

Marktplatz Market square

Neue Küche Cuisine moderne

Neues Rathaus New town hall (the seat of current city business)

Neustadt New part of city or town

Palatinate A region of Germany bordering France

Platz Square

Polizei Police

Postamt Post office

Rathaus Town or city hall

Ratskeller Restaurant in a Rathaus cellar serving traditional German food

Reisebüro Travel agency

Residenz Palace

Schauspielhaus Theater for plays

See Lake (der See) or sea (die See)

Seilbahn Cable car

Speisekarte Menu

Spielbank Casino

Stadt Town, city

Stadtbahn (S-Bahn) Commuter railroad

Steg Footbridge

Strasse Street

Strassenbahn Streetcar, tram

Tagesmenu Menu of the day

Tankstelle Filling station

Teller Platter

Tor Gateway

Turm Tower

Ufer Shore, riverbank

Untergrundbahn (U-Bahn) Subway, underground transportation system

Verkehrsamt Tourist office

Weg Road

Weinstube Wine bar or tavern serving meals

Zimmer Room

Menu Terms

Meats & Poultry (Wurst, Fleisch & Geflügel)

Aufschnitt Cold cuts

Beefsteak Hamburger steak

Brathuhn Roasted chicken

Bratwurst Grilled sausage

Eisbein Pigs’ knuckles

Ente Duck

Frankfurter Hot dog

Gans Goose

Hammel Mutton

Kalb Veal

Kassler Rippchen Pork chops

Lamm Lamb

Leber Liver

Ragout Stew

Rinderbraten Roast beef

Rindfleisch Beef

Sauerbraten Marinated beef

Schinken Ham

Schnitzel Cutlet

Schweinebraten Roast pork

Tafelspitz Boiled beef usually served with applesauce and horseradish—a famous staple of Austria

Truthahn Turkey

Wiener schnitzel Breaded veal cutlet

Wurst Sausage

Fish (Fisch)

Aal Eel

Forelle Trout

Hecht Pike

Karpfen Carp

Lachs Salmon

Makrele Mackerel

Muschel Mussel

Rheinsalm Rhine salmon

Schellfisch Haddock

Seezunge Sole

Eggs (Eier)

Eier in der Schale Boiled eggs

Mit Speck With bacon

Rühreier Scrambled eggs

Spiegeleier Fried eggs

Verlorene Eier Poached eggs

Vegetables (Gemüse)

Artischocken Artichokes

Blumenkohl Cauliflower

Bohnen Beans

Bratkartoffeln Fried potatoes

Champignon Mushroom

Erbsen Peas

Grüne Bohnen Green or string beans

Gurken Cucumbers

Karotten Carrots

Kartoffel Potato

Kartoffelbrei Mashed potatoes

Kartoffelsalat Potato salad

Knödel Dumplings

Kohl Cabbage

Reis Rice

Rettich Radish

Rote Rüben Beets

Rotkraut Red cabbage

Salat Lettuce

Salzkartoffeln Boiled potatoes

Sellerie Celery

Spargel Asparagus

Spinat Spinach

Steinpilze Boletus mushrooms

Tomaten Tomatoes

Weisse Rüben Turnips

Desserts (Nachtisch)

Auflauf Soufflé

Bienenstich Honey almond cake

Blatterteiggebäck Puff pastry

Bratapfel Baked apple

Dolce di Castagne Chestnut roll

Eis Ice cream

Kaffeecreme Coffee mousse

Käse Cheese

Kirschtorte Black Forest cake

Kompott Stewed fruit

Obstkuchen Fruit tart

Obstsalat Fruit salad

Pfannkuchen Sugared pancakes

Pflaumenkompott Stewed plums

Schlagsahne Whipped cream

Schokolademus Chocolate mousse

Tarte Tatin A tart filled with, most often, apples

Topfenpalatschinken Cottage cheese pancakes

Zwetschkenknodel Plum dumplings

Fruits (Obst)

Ananas Pineapple

Apfel Apple

Apfelsine Orange

Banane Banana

Birne Pear

Erdbeeren Strawberries

Himberren Raspberries

Kirschen Cherries

Pfirsich Peach

Weintrauben Grapes

Zitrone Lemon

Beverages (Getränke)

Bier Beer

Ein dunkles A dark beer

Ein helles A light beer

Eine Tasse Kaffee A cup of coffee

Eine Tasse Tee A cup of tea

Eistee Ice tea

Geist Brandy

Hiesse Schokolade Hot chocolate

Kaffee Coffee

Kaffee mit Rahm/Milch/Zucker Coffee with cream/milk/sugar

Kaffee mit Suss-stoff Coffee with artificial sweetener

Kaffee Schwarz Black coffee

Koffeinfrei Decaffeinated coffee

Kräutertee Herb tea

Leicht Light (wine)

Likör Liqueur

Limonade Lemonade

Milch Milk

Mineralwasser Mineral water

Mit Eis With ice

Mit Wasser With water

Ohne Eis Without ice

Ohne Wasser Without water

Pur Straight

Rotwein Red wine

Saft Juice

Schaumwein Sparkling wine

Schnaps Schnapps

Schokolade Chocolate

Soda Club soda

Soda mit gas Soda with gas (to make sure your club soda is carbonated)

Süss Sweet (wine)

Tee mit Milch Tea with cream

Tee mit Zitrone Tea with lemon

Trocken Dry (wine)

Wasser Water

Weisswein White wine

Condiments & Table Items (Würze & Tafelgeschirr)

Brot Bread

Brötchen Rolls

Butter Butter

Eis Ice

Essig Vinegar

Flasche Bottle

Gabel Fork

Glas Glass

Kalte pikante sosse Ketchup

Löffel Spoon

Messer Knife

Öl Oil

Pfeffer Pepper

Platte Plate

Sahne Cream

Salat Zubereitung Salad dressing

Salz Salt

Senf Mustard

Tasse Cup

Teller Platter

Tischzeug Napkin

Zucker Sugar

Cooking Terms

Gebacken Baked

Gebraten Fried

Gedämpft Steamed

Gefüllt Stuffed

Gekocht Boiled

Geröstet Roasted

Gut durchgebraten Well done

Heiss Hot

Kaltes Cold

Mittep Medium

Nicht durchgebraten Rare

Paniert Breaded

Pochiert Poached

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The Rhineland and the Mosel Valley, Germany: Frommer’s® Shortcuts

Table of Contents

The Rhineland

Speyer

Essentials

Exploring Speyer

Where to Eat

Where to Stay

Worms

Essentials

Exploring Worms

Where to Eat

Nightlife & Entertainment

Where to Stay

A Driving Tour of the German Wine Road

Mainz

Essentials

Exploring Mainz

Where to Eat

Shopping

Mainz After Dark

Where to Stay

The Rheingau

Essentials

Rüdesheim

Assmannshausen

Koblenz

Essentials

Exploring Koblenz

Where to Eat

Nightlife & Entertainment

Where to Stay

Bonn

Essentials

Exploring Bonn

Where to Eat

Shopping

Nightlife & Entertainment

Where to Stay

Bad Godesberg

Where to Eat

Where to Stay

Aachen (Aix-la-Chapelle)

Essentials

Exploring Aachen

Where to Eat

Nightlife & Entertainment

Where to Stay

Cologne (Köln)

Essentials

Exploring Cologne

Where to Eat

Shopping

Nightlife & Entertainment

Where to Stay

Düsseldorf

Essentials

Exploring Düsseldorf

Where to Eat

Shopping

Nightlife & Entertainment

Where to Stay

The Mosel Valley

Cochem

Essentials

Exploring Cochem

Where to Eat

Where to Stay

A Side Trip to Burg Eltz

Beilstein

Essentials

Where to Eat & Stay

Zell an der Mosel

Essentials

Where to Eat & Stay

Traben-Trarbach

Essentials

Exploring Traben-Trarbach

Where to Eat & Stay

Bernkastel-Kues

Essentials

Exploring Bernkastel-Kues

Where to Eat

Where to Stay

Trier

Essentials

Exploring Trier

Where to Eat

Nightlife & Entertainment

Where to Stay

The Best of Germany

The Best Experiences

The Best Museums

The Best Castles & Palaces

The Best Cathedrals

The Most Charming Small Villages

The Best Driving Tours

The Best Walks

The Best Biking

The Best Spas

The Best Luxury Hotels

The Best Small Inns & Hotels

The Best Restaurants

The Best Beer Halls & Taverns

The Best Shopping

Germany in Depth

Germany Today

Looking Back: German History

Early Days

The Holy Roman Empire

The Reformation & the Religious Wars

Napoleon Arrives

Bismarck & Prussia

World War I

Weimar Republic

The Rise of Nazism

World War II

Division of Germany

Fall of the Wall & Unification

Modern Germany

Art & Architecture

German Art

Architecture

Germany in Pop Culture

Books

Music

Film

Eating & Drinking

Regional Specialties

Beer & Wine

When to Go

Holidays

Responsible Travel

Tours

Biking

Cruises

Escorted General-Interest Tours

Golf

Hiking & Mountain Climbing

Planning Your Trip to Germany

Getting There

By Plane

By Train

By Car & Ferry

Via the Channel Tunnel

Getting Around

By Plane

By Train

By Car

By Bus

By Boat

Tips on Accommodations

Surfing for Hotels

Saving on Your Hotel Room

Landing the Best Room

B&B Stays

Bungalow, Villa & Apartment Rentals

Castle Hotels

Farm Vacations

House Swapping

Romantik Hotels

Spa Hotels

Youth Hostels

Fast Facts

Useful Terms & Phrases

Getting There & Getting Around

Common Airport Signs

Security Lingo

Road Signs

General Terms

Basic Greetings & Expressions

Common Words

Menu Terms

Meats & Poultry (Wurst, Fleisch & Geflügel)

Fish (Fisch)

Eggs (Eier)

Vegetables (Gemüse)

Desserts (Nachtisch)

Fruits (Obst)

Beverages (Getränke)

Condiments & Table Items (Würze & Tafelgeschirr)

Cooking Terms