Lonely Planet’s Experience guides

are not your traditional guidebooks.

We’ve done away with pages of

listings, opening hours and phone

numbers that are better checked

online. Inside this book is a curated

collection of unforgettable

experiences, so you can create a

unique trip that suits your interests

and fits your schedule.

On these pages we introduce you

to local experts, surprise you with

things you hadn’t thought of and

offer fresh perspectives on the

well-known sights.

IRELAND

Isabel Albiston, Brian Barry, Yvonne Gordon, Úna-Minh Kavanagh,

Noelle Kelly, Fionán McGrath, Orla Smith & Neil Arthurs

Discover Gaelic culture and

celebrate ancient Celtic festivals. Follow

in the footsteps of literary greats. Hike

along the coast, splash in the sea and

kayak around peaceful loughs. Take the

scenic route through moody mountains.

Feel exhilarated by soaring sea cliff s,

pristine beaches and the wild Atlantic

Ocean. Spot nesting seabirds and marine

mammals. Sip pints of creamy stout. Feast

on fresh local produce. Tap your feet to

trad music. See the North’s complicated

history refl ected on its painted walls.

This is Ireland.

TURN THE PAGE AND START PLANNING

YOUR NEXT BEST TRIP →

Contents

Best Experiences 4

Calendar 22

Trip Builder 30

7 Things to

Know About Ireland 42

Read, Listen,

Watch & Follow 44

Dublin 46

Fair City of

Food & Stout 52

Family Fun

in the Park 56

Revolutionary Dublin 60

Key Players

in a Revolution 62

A Nation Divided 64

Sea Air

Around Dalkey 66

Dublin Bay Wildlife 68

Hiking in Howth 70

Cultural Dublin 72

Listings 74

Wicklow 78

Gardens & Homes 84

The Garden of Ireland 88

Seaside Ventures 90

Wandering Wicklow 92

Listings 96

The Southeast 98

Wexford Beach Life 104

When Spielberg

Stormed Curracloe 108

Family Thrills

in Kilkenny 110

The Game of Hurling 112

Copper Coast

& Mahon 116

Breathtaking

Waterford 118

Listings 120

Cork 122

The Culinary Capital 128

The Wonderful

Wild West 130

Castles &

Stately Homes 134

Islands & Beaches 138

Stroll Through

Cork City 142

Charting the

English Market 144

Listings 146

Kerry 148

Slea Head Drive

Scenery 152

Walking the Camino 156

Beaches & Islands 158

Celebrations of Old 162

Dingle Views

& Bar Pews 164

The Emerald Galaxy 168

Wildlife of Kerry 170

The Dolphin that put

Dingle on the Map 172

Listings 174

Meander

the Shannon 176

West of Ireland 180

Galway Pubs & Reels 186

Cruising the Cliffs 188

Walk the

Rocky Burren 192

Wildlife of the Burren 194

Grace O’Malley:

The Pirate Queen 196

Surf Sessions

in Sligo 198

Listings 200

Festival Fever 204

Ulster 206

Belfast’s

Painted Walls 210

Murals & Street Art 212

Titanic Belfast 214

FEIFEI CUI-PAOLUZZO/GETTY IMAGES ©

Above Waterville, Kerry

Fermanagh’s

Lakelands 216

On Location 220

Heaney’s Homeland 222

Hiking the Causeway 224

Daring Scrambles

& Leaps 226

Wild &

Wonderful Donegal 228

Donegal’s

Favourite Beaches 232

Listings 234

Practicalities 236

Arriving 238

Getting Around 240

Safe Travel 242

Money 243

Responsible Travel 244

Accommodation 246

Essentials 248

Language 250

ESSAYS

A Nation Divided 64

When Spielberg

Stormed Curracloe 108

Charting the

English Market 144

The Emerald Galaxy 168

The Dolphin that put

Dingle on the Map 172

Grace O’Malley:

The Pirate Queen 196

Titanic Belfast 214

On Location 220

VISUAL GUIDES

Key Players

in a Revolution 62

Dublin Bay Wildlife 68

Breathtaking

Waterford 118

Wildlife of Kerry 170

Wildlife of the Burren 194

Murals & Street Art 212

Donegal’s

Favourite Beaches 232

PREVIOUS SPREAD: DAMIENJKENNEDYPHOTOGRAPHY/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

GAELIC

CULTURE

Gaelic culture encompasses the

Irish language, literature, storytelling

and folklore, Irish dancing and trad

music, Gaelic sports, traditional arts and

crafts, and the celebration of ancient

Celtic festivals. In certain areas of the

country, Gaelic culture thrives: locals

regularly speak Irish, pubs buzz with trad

sessions, and hurling and Gaelic football

are part of community life. The best way

to experience Gaelic culture is to visit a

Gaeltacht (Irish-speaking region).

IRISH

LANGUAGE

STATS

The total popu-

lation of the Gael-

tacht is 96,090.

In Ireland 73,803

people speak

Irish daily.

The county

with the highest

percentage of

Irish speakers is

Galway (49%).

→ THE

GAELIC REVIVAL

The 19th-century Gaelic

revival was a resurgence

of interest in the Irish

language, literature,

folklore and sports. A

key proponent was

WB Yeats.

Left Sign indicating a Gaelic-speaking

area, Galway Right Irish poet WB

Yeats Below Camogie match, Cork

FESTIVALS

Ancient Celtic festivals such as Imbolc (the beginning of

spring) are still celebrated across Ireland. Rituals include

mountain pilgrimages, parties and parades.

↑ GAELIC SPORTS

The Gaelic Athletic Association (GAA) promotes Ireland’s

Gaelic games of hurling and Gaelic football, as well as

camogie, handball and rounders.

Best Gaelic Culture

Experiences

► Watch hurling being played

or have a go yourself. (p112)

► Join the festivities at one

of Ireland’s ancient Celtic

celebrations. (p162)

► Hear trad music in Galway’s

pubs. (p186)

► Learn about Gaelic culture in

Dublin’s museums. (p72)

► Visit the Irish-speaking

Gaeltacht of Corca Dhuibhne

(Dingle Peninsula; p153) and

the Donegal Gaeltacht (p229).

EVERETT COLLECTION/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

RIGHT: D. RIBEIRO/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

LEFT: TIM GRAHAM/GETTY IMAGES ©

↘ CRAFT

STOUTS

Blacks Brewery

World’s End

Burren Brewery

Burren Black

Galway Bay

Brewery Buried

at Sea

Lineman Astral

Grains Foreign

Extra Stout

Porterhouse

Around the Clock

Imperial Stout

STOUT OF

ORDER

For many, experiencing Ireland means finding

out for themselves whether Guinness really tastes

better in its native land. While Guinness has become

synonymous with stout, in Ireland Murphy’s and

Beamish also compete for business. It’s no surprise

that stouts are also something of a speciality among

Ireland’s craft brewers.

Best Beer

Experiences

► Search out the

perfect pint in Dub-

lin, where Guinness

is brewed. (p52)

► Order a Murphy’s

with your meal in

Cork. (p128)

► Sample stout on

a Galway pub crawl.

(p186)

► Top off a Dingle

adventure with a pint

of the black stuff.

(p164)

ALEXANDRALAW1977/SHUTTERSTOCK ©,

CONTEMPO-

RARY IRISH

FICTION

Sally Rooney

Conversations

with Friends

(2017)

Colm Tóibín

Brooklyn (2009)

Eimear McBride

A Girl is a Half-

Formed Thing

(2013)

Naoise Dolan

Exciting Times

(2020)

POETS &

SCHOLARS

Listen to Irish people speak and you’ll hear a

distinct rhythm and an often poetic turn of phrase.

Ireland’s strong tradition of storytelling is reflected in

its remarkable literary output, which includes works

by James Joyce, Oscar Wilde, WB Yeats, Samuel Beckett

and Seamus Heaney.

Best Literary

Experiences

► Visit the County

Derry locations that

inspired Seamus

Heaney’s poetry.

(p222)

► Explore Ireland’s

literary connections

in Dublin at the MoLI

and Dublin Writers

Museum. (p72)

► Discover the

isolated beauty of

Kerry’s Great Blas-

ket Island, depicted

in books by three

islanders. (p158)

ARNDALE/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

THRILLS &

SPILLS

What better way to experience

Ireland’s wild beauty than to embrace

the great outdoors? Options for activities

abound. Follow waymarked hiking

trails up mountains, over blanket bog

and along the coast, cycle traffic-free

greenways and mountain bike through

woodland, splash in the ocean, jump on

a surfboard or kayak around Ireland’s

peaceful loughs. Family-friendly fun is

guaranteed.

→ HIKING

The Ireland Way (the

irelandway.ie) is a

1000km walking trail

from County Cork to the

Antrim coast. Further

trails are listed on spor-

tireland.ie/

outdoors and walkni.

com.

Left Surfer, Mullaghmore Right Rope

bridge, Carrick-a-Rede Below Cyclists,

Killarney National Park

SURFING

One of the world’s biggest waves breaks at Mullaghmore

in County Sligo. In 2020, Irish surfer Conor Maguire surfed

towering 18m-high waves here.

↑ CYCLING

The Atlantic Coast Route (atlanticonbike.ie) passes

through some wild and rugged landscapes in the north-

west. Many forest parks have mountain bike trails.

Best Active

Experiences

► Leap off rocks and bob in

wave pools on a Causeway

Coast coasteering session.

(p226)

► Kayak or canoe out to Lough

Erne’s monastic islands.

(p216)

► Hike the beautiful Kerry

Camino. (p156)

► Surf the wild Atlantic waves

off the coast of County Sligo.

(p222)

► Cycle the Waterford

Greenway at the Copper Coast.

(p116)

LAUZ83/GETTY IMAGES ©

RIGHT: GABRIEL12/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

LEFT: IANMITCHINSON/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

ONES TO

WATCH

Red deer Roam

the hillsides of

the Wicklow

Mountains and

Glenveagh

National Park.

Dolphins,

porpoises and

whales Can be

spotted off the

coast.

Puffins Nest

in colonies on

coastal cliffs.

Breeding

seabirds

Include gannets,

kittiwakes and

fulmars.

WILDLIFE

WONDERS

Ireland’s land mammals are fairly

low-key; they include hares, hedgehogs

and red deer. When it comes to wildlife

watching, it’s the visiting species that

draw the crowds. Nesting seabirds

include remarkable colonies of puffins,

while Ireland is also a stopover for

migrating birds. Minke whales can be

spotted off the west coast in the summer,

followed by fin whales and humpback

whales later in the year.

→ BIRD SPOTTING

Spring and autumn are

the seasons to spot

migratory birds (mainly

waders and warblers) on

their way to and from the

Arctic, Africa and North

America.

Left Red deer, Glenveagh National

Park Right Razorbill Below Round-

leaved sundew

MARINE MAMMALS

The Irish Whale and Dolphin Group (iwdg.ie) records sight-

ings and campaign for Irish waters to be declared a whale

and dolphin sanctuary.

↑ BOG LIFE

Ireland’s areas of blanket bog – particularly prevalent in

Counties Mayo and Donegal – support a rich diversity of

plant and animal species.

Best Wildlife

Experiences

► Spot whales and dolphins

from Mizen Head in County

Cork. (p130)

► Look out for falcons, golden

eagles and red deer in Glen-

veagh National Park. (p230)

► Admire the abundant

flora and fauna of the Burren.

(p194)

► Observe seabirds at Little

Skellig, the Kerry island that’s

a birdwatching haven. (p158)

► Take a ferry to the Saltees,

where an abundance of sea-

birds nest. (p107)

JAKUB WOJCIECHOWSKI/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

RIGHT: SIMON GRAY/500PX/GETTY IMAGES ©

LEFT: DVLCOM/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

IRELAND’S

NATIONAL

PARKS

Ballycroy

County Mayo

The Burren

County Clare

Connemara

County Galway

Glenveagh

County Donegal

Killarney

County Kerry

Wicklow

Mountains

County Wicklow

THE SCENIC

ROUTE

The Irish landscape can be both

brooding and breathtakingly beautiful.

The country’s spectacular coastline gets

the most attention, but Ireland’s moody

mountains, rolling green pastures and

atmospheric loughs and rivers are

evocative in their own way. Changeable

weather adds to the allure: low-lying

mists and pretty sunsets bring a touch of

romance.

→ DARK SKIES

Ballycroy National Park

is a designated Dark Sky

Park (mayodarkskypark.ie).

From the visitor centre,

a boardwalk leads to a

viewpoint for spectacu-

lar stargazing.

Left Wicklow Mountains Right

Ballycroy National Park Below Ring

of Kerry

INLAND WATERWAYS

Taking a slow trip along Ireland’s rivers and waterways

allows the beauty of the country’s varied landscapes to

seep in.

↑ DRIVING

Negotiating winding rural roads through wild terrain while

dodging sheep is all part of the experience. Ireland’s

signed coastal driving routes are simply spectacular.

Best Scenic

Experiences

► Meander down the River

Shannon in a boat. (p176)

► Admire Wicklow’s elegant

gardens and historic homes.

(p84)

► Experience County Done-

gal’s brooding mountains and

wild terrain. (p228)

► Paddle the waterways

of Lough Erne in County

Fermanagh. (p216)

► Walk through forests, up

mountains and around loughs

in County Wicklow. (p92)

GARETH MCCORMACK/ALAMY STOCK PHOTO ©

RIGHT: GREENS AND BLUES/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

LEFT: BENCEMOR/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

ICONIC

CLIFFS &

BEACHES

Ireland has one of the world’s

most stunning shorelines. Rugged

cliffs are interspaced with secluded

coves and sandy bays that are perfect

for surfing. Vibrant green grass and

wildflowers grow right up to the cliff

edge, where sure-footed sheep graze

perilously above crashing waves. On

the western coast, the Wild Atlantic

Way is a signed driving route from

Kinsale to Derry.

Coastal Donegal

Cliffs and beaches

The Sliabh Liag cliffs are

among Europe’s highest. See

them from the water on a

guided boat trip, or brave the

narrow One Man’s Path along

the top. Nearby are some

of Ireland’s most beautiful

beaches. ► p232

50-minute drive from

Donegal town to Sliabh Liag

Cliffs of Moher

Soaring sea cliffs

On the coast of County Clare,

these magnificent cliffs stretch

for 8km. Join the crowds who

come to gawp in wonder. The

best views are on the trail from

Hag’s Head, or from a boat.

► p188

40-minute drive from Ennis

Dingle Peninsula

Secluded sandy coves

Jutting into the wild Atlantic

Ocean at mainland Ireland’s

most westerly point, the Dingle

Peninsula offers craggy cliffs,

surf-pounded rocks and pretty

beaches. Take a hike at Dunmore

Head for spectacular views over

the Blasket Islands. ► p164

50-minute drive from Tralee

to Dingle town

Beara Peninsula

Wild and unspoilt headland

County Cork’s beguilingly

rugged headland is quieter

than the often crowded Ring of

Kerry. For breathtaking views,

take the Healy Pass across the

Caha Mountains, then stop for

a swim at Ballydonegan beach.

► p130

2½-hour drive from Cork

city to Ballydonegan beach

D. RIBEIRO/SHUTTERSTOCK ©, MICHAEL THALER/SHUTTERSTOCK ©,

JOE DANIEL PRICE/GETTY IMAGES ©

Giant’s Causeway

Dramatic hexagonal

columns

The north Antrim coast is

famous for the unusual basalt

rock formations of the Giant’s

Causeway, one of Ireland’s

most atmospheric landscape

features and a Unesco World

Heritage Site. Don’t miss the

neighbouring beaches and

wild-flower-strewn clifftops.

► p224

1½-hour drive from

Belfast

Wexford Beaches

Family-friendly strands

Bucket-and-spade beaches

line the coast of County

Wexford. Take a walk along

the seemingly endless white

sands of Curracloe Beach,

then stop for an ice cream.

Stand-up paddleboarding and

kitesurfing are also popular

here.

► p104

Two-hour drive from Dublin

IRISH

SPECIALITIES

Boxty Starchy

potato cake from

Ulster.

Seafood

chowder Rich,

creamy broth

filled with the

flavours of the

sea.

Guinness bread

Malty loaf made

with the black

stuff.

Irish stew

Comforting bowl

of meat and

potatoes.

MODERN IRISH

GRUB

Ireland’s thriving culinary scene

is closely linked to the quality of its

local produce. Swathes of lush farming

country produce a bounty of meats and

cheeses, while fresh seafood is available

from the surrounding ocean. From

gourmet sandwiches and takeaway

fish-and-chips to Michelin-starred fine

dining, Ireland has some excellent

restaurants at all price points.

→ BALLYMALOE

HOUSE

Since the 1960s, this

restaurant and cookery

school in Cork has

been at the forefront

of Ireland’s local food

movement. (p129)

Left Seafood chowder Right Jams

from Ballymaloe Cooking School

Below Cashel Blue cheese

MARKETS

Buy direct from producers at food-led markets such as St

George’s Market in Belfast and the weekend markets in

Dublin’s suburbs.

↑ LOCAL PRODUCE

Local cheeses include Cashel Blue, Corleggy and Gub-

been. In Ulster, try Armagh apples, Comber potatoes and

Lough Neagh eel (if you’re brave enough).

Best Food Experiences

► Dine out in Kinsale, Ireland’s

culinary capital. (p128)

► Feast on the fruit of the land

in Wicklow. (p98)

► Take your pick of options

from fine-dining restaurants to

food trucks in Dublin. (p52)

► Shop for local produce at

the English Market in Cork.

(p144)

OLIVER STREWE/GETTY IMAGES ©

RIGHT: STEPHEN BARNES/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

LEFT: FREESKYLINE/GETTY IMAGES ©

TRAD PLAYLIST

Old Hag You

Have Killed Me

The Bothy Band

Star of

County Down

The Chieftains

Dónal na Gréine

Gráinne Holland

The Wren’s Nest

De Dannan

Whiskey in

the Jar

The Dubliners

PINTS & TRAD

SESSIONS

Catching a trad session in an Irish

pub is an experience that will long linger

in your senses. From foot-tapping reels

to evocative ballads, trad music creates

an atmospheric soundtrack to a night

out. Skilled musicians can be heard at

even the most casual of venues; spend

enough time there and you might even

find yourself joining in.

→TRAD

INSTRUMENTS

The uillean pipes (Irish

bagpipes) are played by

squeezing bellows under

the elbow. Pub sessions

usually feature fiddles,

flutes, tin whistles, accor-

dions and bouzoukis.

Left Trad music session, Galway Right

Tin whistle Below Bodhrán

TRAD RHYTHMS

Trad music includes jigs, reels and hornpipes (which

sound similar but have different timings), polkas and slow

airs or ballads.

↑ BEAT OF THE BODHRáN

Trad music is often accompanied by a bodhrán, a tradi-

tional Irish drum made with goatskin stretched over a

wooden frame.

Best Music Experiences

► Join in the dancing at trad

sessions on Donegal’s Tory

Island. (p228)

► Hear some of the country’s

best trad musicians in Galway.

(p186)

► Tap your feet to the beat in

Dingle’s pubs. (p164)

► Whet your whistle and hear

some reels on a Dublin pub

crawl. (p52)

TOPNAT/GETTY IMAGES ©

RIGHT: ROBIN MACGREGOR/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

LEFT: KEITH CORCORAN/ALAMY STOCK PHOTO ©

MURALS & NEW

BEGINNINGS

Ireland’s turbulent history is

explored in some excellent museums

across the country, and provides the

context for the art on display in Irish

galleries and castles. In the North,

echoes of past conflicts and current

tensions are reflected in political

murals. These days, Ireland’s artistic

output reflects its increasingly diverse

population, and Belfast’s vibrant street

art scene is rooted in a non-sectarian

celebration of place.

→ REVOLUTION

Dublin is the best place

to learn about Ireland’s

revolutionary move-

ments. It’s where the

most significant events

took place in the fight for

independence.

Left Mural by the artist ’Smug One’,

Belfast Right GPO building, Dublin

Below Artist and musician Patsy Dan

Mac Ruaíri (Rodgers), Tory Island

MURAL THEMES

Murals often depict themes connected to identity. Look

for references to Celtic mythology in Republican murals

and to Belfast’s industrial past in Unionist murals.

↑ TORY ISLAND NAIVE ART

This remote island in County Donegal is known for its

distinctive school of self-taught painters, whose work has

been exhibited worldwide.

Best Cultural

Experiences

► Check out political murals

and creative street art in

Belfast. (p210)

► Immerse yourself in art at

Dublin’s National Museum of

Ireland – Decorative Arts and

History. (p72)

► Learn about Ireland’s revolu-

tionary movements at the GPO

Museum in Dublin. (p60)

► Take in the striking murals

of the People’s Gallery in

Derry. (p212)

JOHN W BANAGAN/GETTY IMAGES ©

RIGHT: RICHARD WAYMAN/ALAMY STOCK PHOTO ©

LEFT: CHARLES MCQUILLAN/GETTY IMAGES ©

↓ Kilkenny Festivals

The Cat Laughs Comedy

Festival in June attracts the

country’s top comedians; the

August Arts Festival is one of

Ireland’s best.

► p204

Schools are closed in

July and August. Sea-

side towns and resorts

are busy as families

head to the coast.

Avoid Northern Ireland during

the Orange Order marches

of 12 July (a public holiday),

when tensions run high.

↑ Galway

International

Arts Festival

Held in the last two

weeks of July, Ireland’s

most important arts

festival features music,

drama and more.

► giaf.ie

JUNE

Average daytime max: 18°C

Days of rainfall: 10

JULY

Ireland in

SUMMER

PANASPICS/SHUTTERSTOCK ©, NURPHOTO/NURPHOTO VIA GETTY IMAGES ©,

DAVID FITZGERALD/SPORTSFILE VIA GETTY IMAGES ©,PIARAS Ó MíDHEACH/

SPORTSFILE VIA GETTY IMAGES ©, MICA STOCK/SHUTTERSTOCK ©,

YOUNGGOGO/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

↓ All-Ireland Finals

Late summer sees the finals

of the hurling and Gaelic

football championships at

Dublin’s Croke Park.

► p112

↑ Galway Races

This summer festival is

not just about the horses,

it’s also about the food,

fashion and elaborate

hats.

► Galway

► p204

AUGUST

Average daytime max: 20°C

Days of rainfall: 11

Average daytime max: 19°C

Days of rainfall: 12

Demand for accommodation

peaks during July and August.

Book tours and overnight

adventures in advance at

lonelyplanet.com/ireland/

activities..

Packing Notes

Sandals for warm

weather; trainers, a

sweater and a jacket

for rainy days.

← Puck Fair

This ancient three-day

festival takes place in

August and involves the

crowning of a goat king.

► Killorglin

► p162

Check out the

full calendar of

events

Though it’s always unpredictable,

September can be a good time to

glimpse the Northern Lights from

County Donegal.

↓ Cork Jazz Festival

The musicians spill out onto

the streets at Cork’s annual

jazz festival, held in late

October.

► p204

← Electric Picnic

Held in early September,

this three-day arts and

music festival features

an eclectic mix of inter-

national acts.

► Stradbally Hall,

County Laois

► p204

Forage for wild blackberries and

feast on local seasonal produce

including mushrooms, oysters

and Armagh apples.

SEPTEMBER

Average daytime max: 17°C

Days of rainfall: 10

OCTOBER

Ireland in

AUTUMN

KIERAN FROST/REDFERNS VIA GETTY IMAGES ©, YE CHOH WAH/SHUTTERSTOCK

©, BENKRUT/GETTY IMAGES ©, CHARLES MCQUILLAN/GETTY IMAGES ©,

MIKROMAN6/GETTY IMAGES ©

October is prime leaf-peeping time,

when many trees in parks and

forests turn vivid shades of red,

yellow and orange.

↓ Derry Halloween

This annual extravaganza

attracts visitors from

across the globe. Events

include a carnival parade

and live music.

► derryhalloween.com

↑ Belfast International Arts Festival

Held in October, this huge arts festival

encompasses everything from visual

arts to dance.

► belfastinternationalartsfestival.com

NOVEMBER

Average daytime max: 14°C

Days of rainfall: 12

Average daytime max: 10°C

Days of rainfall: 12

Autumn is the best time for

whale watching on the west

coast. Look out for Minke,

fin whales and humpbacks.

Packing Notes

A waterproof jacket

and a backpack to

carry extra layers in

changeable weather.

Christmas dominates December:

shops are busy, while pubs and

restaurants host office holiday

parties. On 25 December shops

and businesses close.

↓ Christmas Markets

Festive Christmas markets are

held in Belfast, Galway and Cork.

← Winterval

Ireland’s biggest

Christmas festival features

a Santa’s grotto, carnival

games, and craft and food

market stalls.

► Waterford

► winterval.ie

Falling on or around

21 December, the winter

solstice is the shortest day of

the year, with less than eight

hours of sunlight.

DECEMBER

Average daytime max: 9°C

Days of rainfall: 13

JANUARY

Ireland in

WINTER

APRILANTE/SHUTTERSTOCK ©, ORIETTA GASPARI/GETTY IMAGES ©,

ANTON_IVANOV/SHUTTERSTOCK ©, JU_SEE/SHUTTERSTOCK ©, INVIZBK/

GETTY IMAGES ©, SARA WINTER/SHUTTERSTOCK ©, R-MAC PHOTOGRAPHY/

SHUTTERSTOCK ©

↓ Cultural Dublin

The winter months are

a good time to explore

Dublin’s museums and

galleries, out of the cold.

► p72

↓ Galway’s Pubs

Ireland’s pubs are cosi-

est in the wintertime,

when short chilly days

tempt you inside to sit

by the fire.

► p186

↑ Imbolc

Also called

St Brigid’s Day,

1 February marks

the beginning of

spring; festivities

involve processions

and straw hats.

► Killorglin

► p162

FEBRUARY

Average daytime max: 8°C

Days of rainfall: 13

Average daytime max: 8°C

Days of rainfall: 10

← Causeway Coast

Winter is a quieter time

to visit popular places

such as the Giant’s

Causeway in County

Antrim.

► p224

Packing Notes

A winter coat, woolly

hat, scarf, gloves,

warm socks and

waterproof boots.

← St Patrick’s Day

On 17 March Ireland celebrates

St Patrick’s Day with parades

and events across the country.

The biggest celebrations are in

Dublin.

► stpatricksday.ie

The puffin breeding season

usually starts in late March.

From then until July or August,

look out for puffins around

Ireland’s craggy coastline.

Hedgerows and hillsides turn

bright yellow as the fragrant

flower of the gorse bush blooms.

Summer festivities begin with

events on the May Bank Holiday

(the first Monday in May).

MARCH

APRIL

Average daytime max: 12°C

Days of rainfall: 11

Ireland in

SPRING

DAVE PRIMOV/SHUTTERSTOCK ©, DAWID K PHOTOGRAPHY/SHUTTERSTOCK ©,

DEREK WILSON/ALAMY STOCK PHOTO ©, MAYDAYS/GETTY IMAGES ©, MARTIN

FOWLER/SHUTTERSTOCK ©, MIKROMAN6/GETTY IMAGES ©

→ May the 4th Festival

Kerry’s connection to Star Wars

is celebrated with recitals of the

score and Irish dancing.

► Baile an Fheirtéaraigh

(Ballyferriter)

► p168

↓ North West 200

This huge motorcycle

racing event takes place

in May in the triangle

between Portrush,

Portstewart and Coleraine

on the Causeway Coast.

► northwest200.org

→ Kerry Camino

Join the annual group

walk of the Kerry

Camino on the holiday

weekend in early May.

► Tralee

► p156

MAY

Average daytime max: 15°C

Days of rainfall: 11

Average daytime max: 15°C

Days of rainfall: 11

← The Burren

May is the best time to

see the wild-flowers in

bloom on a walk in the

Burren.

► County Clare

► p192

Packing Notes

Trainers, light layers,

a scarf, a waterproof

jacket and sunglasses

for bright days.

AROUND

DUBLIN

Trip Builder

TAKE YOUR PICK OF MUST-SEES

AND HIDDEN GEMS

Ireland’s capital city offers

world-class dining, culture and

nightlife. But within an hour’s

drive of the metropolis lie peaceful

mountain passes, brooding loughs

and pretty seaside towns. Pack for a

night out on the town, a mountain

hike and a day at the beach.

Trip Notes

Hub town Dublin

How long Allow a week

Getting around Public transport within

Dublin is excellent, and preferable to

negotiating the city’s traffic and parking

challenges. The DART runs to Bray, Dalkey

and Howth. Buses connect main towns,

but don’t serve all rural areas. It’s easiest

to reach the Wicklow Mountains by car.

Tips Consider basing yourself in Dublin

and visiting the surrounding sights on

day trips.

Dublin

Dine out at the city’s excellent

restaurants and drink in Dub-

lin’s famous pubs. Allow time

to visit museums and galleries.

Stroll the city’s elegant parks.

3-4 days

Blessington Lake

Visit the grand stately home at

Russborough House & Park-

lands, which has views over the

picturesque Blessington Lake.

½ day

ROLF G WACKENBERG/SHUTTERSTOCK ©,

DIRK HUDSON/SHUTTERSTOCK ©,

CINEMATOGRAPHPICTURES/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Howth

Stroll along the cliff

path to the lighthouse,

check out the castle,

wander around the

harbour and feast on

fresh seafood.

½ day

Dalkey

Take a day trip to the

heritage town of Dalkey.

Walking trails, refreshing

sea breezes, castle ruins

and forest parks await.

½ day

Bray

Admire the gardens, views

and waterfall at Powerscourt

Estate. The nearby town of

Bray is the starting point of

the Bray Head coastal walk.

½ day

Wicklow Mountains

Climb mountains, hike

through forests and

glens, and marvel at

Glenmacnass Waterfall.

Nearby is the monastic

site at Glendalough, one of

Ireland’s most well-known

attractions.

1-2 days

COASTAL

SOUTH-

WEST

Trip Builder

TAKE YOUR PICK OF MUST-SEES

AND HIDDEN GEMS

Surf breaks, hiking trails, trad

pubs, wonderful wildlife, medieval

castles, Ireland’s best restaurants and

simply spectacular scenery: a trip to

the coastlines of Counties Kerry and

Cork has it all. Keep your camera

handy.

Trip Notes

Hub towns Tralee, Cork

How long Around a week

Getting around The best way to

experience the peninsula driving loops

is behind the wheel. Public transport to

remote areas is limited. Take boat tours to

the islands.

Tips Boat trips to the Skelligs only

operate mid-May to September, weather

permitting. Numbers of visitors are limited

so book well in advance.

Valentia Island

Cross the bridge to beautiful

Valentia Island. Hike the loop

walk at Bray Head or climb

Geokaun Mountain for views

of the surrounding islands.

1 day

Skellig Islands

Take a boat trip to the re-

mote monastery on Skellig

Michael, featured as Luke

Skywalker’s Jedi temple

in Star Wars, and spot

gannets on Little Skellig.

1 day

FABIANO’S_PHOTO/SHUTTERSTOCK ©,

D. RIBEIRO/SHUTTERSTOCK ©,

CAPTBLACK76/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Dingle Peninsula

Drive around Slea Head, surf

or catch the sunset at the

Maharees and relax in Dingle’s

pubs. Allow three days to hike

the Kerry Camino.

2-3 days

Beara Peninsula

Drive over Healy Pass and

clock the jaw-dropping views.

Stop at beaches and pretty

villages, and at the end of the

peninsula take the cable car to

Dursey Island.

1 day

Cork

Stroll around the city, sample

restaurants and visit the

English Market. Take day trips

to Cork’s medieval castles,

country houses and beaches.

2-3 days

Mizen Head Peninsula

Get off the beaten track in

Cork’s wild west. Visit ancient

stone circles and take a detour

to the remote Sheep’s Head

Peninsula.

1 day

THE

NORTH

Trip Builder

TAKE YOUR PICK OF MUST-SEES

AND HIDDEN GEMS

Head north for a mix of vibrant

cities and peaceful backwaters. This

trip promises opportunities to hike,

cycle and kayak your way through

varied scenery, with chances to better

understand local history and feast on

good food along the way.

Trip Notes

Hub towns Belfast, Derry

How long Around 10 days

Getting around Hire a car in Belfast.

Alternatively, buses link main towns.

Cycling is an excellent option: National

Cycle Route 93 connects Belfast and

Derry; the Inishowen 100 is a 100-mile

(160km) cycle around the peninsula; the

Kingfisher Trail passes Lough Erne.

Tips The 120-mile (193km) Causeway

Coastal Route is a signed driving tour from

Belfast to Derry.

Glenveagh National Park

Wonder at the beauty of

brooding mountains and

loughs. Hike or cycle through

an unspoilt landscape. Spot

wildlife and take a tour of

Glenveagh Castle.

1 day

Lough Erne

Canoe or kayak out to the

monastic islands of Lower

Lough Erne. Explore the

quieter waters of Upper Lough

Erne. Visit the island town of

Enniskillen.

1-2 days

LYD PHOTOGRAPHY/SHUTTERSTOCK ©,

ROLF G WACKENBERG/SHUTTERSTOCK ©,

DIGNITY 100/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Inishowen Peninsula

Feel the sea spray at

Malin Head, Ireland’s

most northerly point. Visit

castles and hidden coves.

Savour the peacefulness

and look out for rare birds.

1-2 days

Giant’s Causeway

Allow time to visit the

Causeway and nearby

sights; hiking is a great

way to explore. Marvel

at castle ruins and sip

Bushmills whiskey.

1-2 days

North Antrim Coast

Explore the cliffs and

beaches of the Antrim

coast and stop at Game of

Thrones filming locations.

Take a detour through the

beautiful Antrim Glens.

1-2 days

Derry

Walk the city walls and see the

People’s Gallery murals. Visit

the city’s excellent museums.

Dine out on local seafood and

craft beer.

1 day

Belfast

Make the most of Belfast’s

restaurants and nightlife, and

check out the city’s museums

and Titanic-related sights. The

city makes a good base for

day trips.

2-3 days

SUNNY

SOUTH-

EAST

Trip Builder

TAKE YOUR PICK OF MUST-SEES

AND HIDDEN GEMS

A trip to Ireland’s Southeast

might involve surfing, sea kayaking,

cycling and walking – or simply

relaxing with an ice cream on one of

the sandy beaches along the coasts

of Counties Wexford and Waterford.

In the rolling hills of neighbouring

Kilkenny are a number of family-

friendly attractions.

Trip Notes

Hub towns Kilkenny, Wexford, Waterford

How long Around 4 or 5 days

Getting around Trains connect Wexford

town, Waterford city and Kilkenny city with

Dublin. Cycling is popular in the region. A

car is the easiest option.

Tips The Passage East Ferry from

Ballyhack to Passage East saves a long

detour – handy if travelling along the

coast between Wexford and Waterford by

bike or car.

Waterford

Gawp at waterfalls, splash

in the sea and stroll down

sandy beaches on the

Waterford coast. Cycling

the Waterford Greenway is

a fun excursion.

1 day

Copper Coast

Explore the vivid land-

scapes of the Copper

Coast Geopark. Allow time

to discover the area’s

hidden coves and beaches.

Pick up trail cards for

self-guided walks.

1 day

VEEJEY/SHUTTERSTOCK ©,

BOULENGER XAVIER/SHUTTERSTOCK ©,

FULCANELLI/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Kilkenny

Catch a game of hurling

in Kilkenny city, home of

the Cats. Take the family

to Castlecomer Discovery

Park and other local

attractions.

1 day

Wexford Beaches

Feel the sand between

your toes on Wexford’s

beaches. In sunny weather

allocate extra time for

lazing on the dunes and

eating ice cream.

1-2 days

Hook Head

Join a sunset kayaking trip

and keep a look out for seals

and dolphins. The drive from

Fethard-on-Sea to Hook Head

passes ruined castles, seclud-

ed bays and a lighthouse.

½ day

Saltee Islands

Take a ferry to the uninhabited

Saltee Islands to see seals

and spot puffins and other

seabirds.

½ day

WILD

WEST

COAST

Trip Builder

TAKE YOUR PICK OF MUST-SEES

AND HIDDEN GEMS

Ireland’s northwest offers

unspoilt natural beauty: wild and

remote headlands where winding

coastal paths look out over jagged

cliffs, lonely lighthouses and long

sandy bays. Gaelic culture thrives in

the Irish-speaking regions, where trad

music sessions take place most nights.

Trip Notes

Hub towns Galway, Sligo

How long Around a week

Getting around Hiring a car is the best

option since public transport doesn’t

serve the most remote areas. Tory Island

and Clare Island are reached by ferry.

Tips The Wild Atlantic Way

(wildatlanticway.com) coastal driving

route traverses Ireland’s west coast. The

signage is helpful but the route can be

congested; if possible avoid the busy

summer months.

Tory Island

Walk the island’s rugged

coastline and spot puffins on

the cliffs. Stay on the island

overnight to join in the danc-

ing at a trad session.

1-2 days

Clare Island

Follow in the footsteps of

Ireland’s pirate queen Grace

O’Malley and look for her

family motto at Clare Island

Abbey. Back on the mainland,

climb Croagh Patrick.

1 day

HEMIS/ALAMY STOCK PHOTO ©,

WIRESTOCK CREATORS/SHUTTERSTOCK ©,

ANTON_IVANOV/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Donegal Beaches

Relax on the sand, splash in

the sea or go surfing. Refuel

at the restaurants and bars in

Dunfanaghy, a good base for

exploring the coast.

1-2 days

Sliabh Liag

Hike over the cliff top or view

the sea cliffs from the water on

a boat trip. Explore the nearby

headlands and bays.

1 day

Fanad & Rosguill Pen-

insulas

Loop around Fanad

Peninsula then take the

bridge over to the Rosguill

Peninsula for more stun-

ning driving (or cycling)

past rocky headlands and

beaches.

1 day

Sligo Coast

Ride beginner breaks at

Enniscrone or join the

big-wave surfers at Mul-

laghmore. Get back in the

water for a sea-kayaking

session.

1 day

Galway

Hear some of Ireland’s best

musicians playing trad music

in Galway’s pubs and sample

fresh oysters from Galway Bay.

Take day trips to Connemara

and around.

2 days

WATER-

WAY TO

THE WEST

Trip Builder

TAKE YOUR PICK OF MUST-SEES

AND HIDDEN GEMS

The River Shannon waterway

offers a peaceful, slow-paced trip

through the rolling landscapes of

inland Ireland. Where the river meets

the Atlantic, the scenery is dramatic:

raggedly beautiful Loop Head, the

vertical Cliffs of Moher and the

mesmerising landscapes of the Burren.

Trip Notes

Hub towns Carrick-on-Shannon, Limerick

How long Around a week

Getting around Follow the path of the

River Shannon by car, bike or boat.

Carrick-on-Shannon is a good place to

begin boat trips since it has convenient

public transport links.

Tips Hire a liveaboard motor cruiser for a

holiday on the River Shannon. No licence

is required; the boats travel very slowly

(most have a maximum speed of 10 to 15

knots).

Cliffs of Moher

Walk along the coast to ex-

perience the breathtaking

beauty of these vertical

sea cliffs, or view them

from a boat. Catch a trad

session at a Doolin pub.

½ day

Loop Head

Taste salt on the breeze

as the Shannon meets the

Atlantic. Photo ops abound

at this spectacular spot;

get your camera out at the

Kilkee Cliffs and Bridges

of Ross.

1 day

CHRIS HILL/GETTY IMAGES ©,

JOHANNES RIGG/SHUTTERSTOCK ©,

TOM CASSIDY/ALAMY STOCK PHOTO ©,

ANDRZEJ BARTYZEL/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Lough Ree

Splash with the family at

an inflatable water park

and look out for migratory

birds, including whooper

swans and curlews.

1 day

The Burren

Hike through a remarkable

landscape of barren grey

limestone in the Burren.

The area’s ancient sites,

wildlife and starkly

beautiful scenery can be

explored via numerous

walking trails.

1-2 days

Lough Derg

Visit the monastic settle-

ment at Inis Cealtra by boat

to see high crosses, a round

tower and several church-

es. History buffs will enjoy

the sights of picturesque

Killaloe.

1 day

Foynes

Stop at the village of

Foynes to learn about

its connection to the first

commercial transatlantic

passenger flight.

½ day

7

Things to Know About

IRELAND

INSIDER TIPS TO HIT THE GROUND RUNNING

1  The

Gaeltacht

Gaeltachtaí are

regions where

Irish (Gaeilge)

is the primary

spoken language.

They include

large areas

of Counties

Donegal, Mayo, Galway and Kerry and parts of Counties

Cork, Meath and Waterford. Here you are likely to hear

Irish being spoken among locals, although everyone will be

able to speak English, too. In the summer, several places in

Gaeltachtaí offer Irish language courses for all levels.

2  Making

Conversation

Irish people are

generally friendly but

often reserved, and

tend to avoid topics

that might cause

embarrassment.

Don’t be too direct

too soon, especially

if discussing politics,

which can be a touchy

subject. Humour is the

exception: ribbing can

get quite personal but

it’s usually not meant to

offend. The Irish sense

of humour can be quite

dark, and few topics are

off limits when it comes

to making a joke.

3  Time for Tea

Tea is the unofficial

national drink and many Irish

people drink several cups

a day. Expect to be offered

a cuppa upon entering

someone’s home. Biscuits

will be provided for dunking.

4  Eat Early

Restaurants tend

to close much earlier than

elsewhere in Europe. In rural

areas kitchens may shut as

early as 8pm; plan ahead.

See more about Irish

cuisine on p16

5  Expect Rain

Ireland’s climate is

generally mild and change-

able. Rain is a possibility

almost every day of the

year – but so is sunshine.

Bring a raincoat (umbrellas

aren’t much help in the wind)

and wear layers you can take

off when the sun comes out.

Sometimes it snows for a

few days in winter, but not

always.

See more about the

seasons on p22

6  Local

Lingo

Banjaxed Broken beyond repair or very drunk.

Bold Naughty; usually used with children (‘don’t be

bold’).

Craic Fun. Can be used in a greeting (‘what’s the craic?’),

to describe a good time (‘great craic’) or for someone fun

to hang out with (’she’s good craic’).

Dander Walk (‘let’s take a dander to the shops’).

Eejit An idiot or fool. Often used affectionately (‘you big

eejit’).

Gas Funny; can be used to describe a person or situation.

Grand Great, good or fine (‘you’re grand’).

Lash Many uses, including to go out drinking (‘out on the

lash’) or for rain (‘it’s lashing down’).

Quare Used for emphasis (‘there’s a quare wind

blowing’).

Yoke Any nearby object.

Many Irish people swear a lot so be prepared to hear

some colourful language. Curse words can be part of

everyday speech and are not necessarily intended to be

insulting or cause offence.

See the Language chapter on p250

7  Pub Culture

Pubs are where people in Ireland

gather to share stories and drink pints.

It’s usual for friends to take turns to buy

a round of drinks for the whole group.

Local musicians often gather for informal

trad sessions, which usually take place at

a pub table.

See more about pints and trad

sessions on p18

Read, Listen,

Watch & Follow

READ

Milkman

(Anna Burns; 2018)

A darkly funny

perspective on life

during the Troubles.

Don’t Touch My

Hair (Emma Dabiri;

2019) Dabiri uses

hair to examine

slavery, colonisation

and cultural

appropriation.

Angela’s Ashes

(Frank McCourt;

1996) A bleak story

of poverty-stricken

childhood in

Limerick.

The Sea

(John Banville;

2005) An engrossing

meditation on grief

and memory, set in

Wexford.

LISTEN

Go Bravely

(Denise Chaila;

2020) Thought-pro-

voking hip-hop by

a Zambian-Irish

rapper, poet and

singer.

First Prize Bravery

(Sorcha Richard-

son; 2019) Poppy,

breezy folk music by

an up-and-coming

singer-songwriter

from Dublin.

A Hero’s Death

(Fontaines DC; 2020;

pictured right) The

Dublin post-punk

band’s follow-up

to their hit album

Dogrel has the same

sense of urgency and

rage.

Irish History

Podcast

Fin Dwyer’s podcast

covers everything

from the Norman

Invasion to the Great

Famine.

The Blindboy Podcast

Hosted by Blindboy of comedy hip-hip duo

the Rubberbandits, with interviews, short

fiction and comedy.

DAVID WOLFF - PATRICK/GETTY IMAGES ©,

WATCH

Normal People (2020) TV series based on

Sally Rooney’s 2018 novel, set in Sligo and

Dublin.

Derry Girls (2018–present) Derry

schoolgirls are the stars of this TV comedy

set in the 1990s.

Wolfwalkers (2020) The third animation

in Kilkenny-based Cartoon Saloon’s Irish

folklore trilogy.

Good Vibrations (2013) The story of

record-label owner Terri Hooley and

Belfast’s punk rock scene.

Michael Collins (1996) Liam Neeson stars

in Neil Jordan’s Oscar-winning biopic.

FOLLOW

@Ireland

Curated by a new

person each week

on Twitter.

The Taste

(thetaste.ie)

Food, drink and

travel, including

reviews.

The Life of Stuff

(thelifeofstuff.

com) Irish travel,

culture and

lifestyle blog.

@DiscoverIreland

Photos and

tourism news on

Twitter.

@Chrishillphotographer

Inspiring

Instagram

account.

Sate your Ireland

dreaming with a

virtual vacation

TOP: © 2020 WOLFWALKERS. WOLFWALKERS IS A REGISTERED

TRADEMARK OF CARTOON SALOON/MELUSINE. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED.

BOTTOM: GETTY IMAGES/HANDOUT ©

DUBLIN

CULTURE | HISTORY | COAST

Experience

Dublin

online

► Fair City of Food &

Stout (p52)

► Family Fun in

the Park (p56)

► Revolutionary

Dublin (p60)

► Key players in a

Revolution (p62)

► A Nation

Divided (p64)

► Sea Air Around

Dalkey (p66)

► Dublin Bay

Wildlife (p68)

► Hiking in Howth (p70)

► Cultural Dublin (p72)

► Listings (p74)

Bonus Online Experiences

► The Sound of Dublin

► Dublin Spectres and

Spirits

pawel.gaul/Getty Images ©

Look for the herd of deer and

soak up nature in Phoenix

Park (p56)

2 hr

Learn about Dublin’s

revolutionary history at the

GPO Museum (p60)

1½ hr

Travel through 300

years of history at

14 Henrietta Street

house museum (p73)

2 hr

View rare books and manuscripts

at the Chester Beatty library

museum (p72)

2 hr

Admire international

art and emerging

Irish artists at the

RHA Gallery (p73)

2 hr

DUBLIN

Trip Builder

Explore the city on foot, dipping into

museums, galleries, old pubs or live performances,

or pack a picnic and take a day trip out of the city

for some coastal walks and sea air, perhaps spotting

some wildlife along the way.

Explore bookable

experiences in

Dublin online

DAWID K PHOTOGRAPHY/SHUTTERSTOCK ©,

DERICK HUDSON/GETTY IMAGES ©,

JAKE BURNS PHOTOGRAPHY/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Spy seals, Irish hares and

seabirds at North Bull

Island (p68)

½ day

Try a pint of Guinness at

Mulligan’s of Poolbeg St

(p55)

1 hr

Walk the Cliff Path from

Howth Harbour to the Baily

Lighthouse (p70)

½ day

Explore sea views and hilly

trails in Killiney Hill Park

(p59)

½ day

Visit Blackrock village for

poké bowls or Michelin-star

dining (p53)

½ day

Practicalities

ARRIVING

Dublin Airport The Airlink Express bus to Dublin

city centre costs €6 online (dublinbus.ie) or €7

from the airport. Aircoach buses to the city cost

€8 and also run to various suburbs. Taxis to the

city centre cost from €25 to €40.

Heuston & Connolly Stations Trains from the

south and west of Ireland arrive into Heuston,

which connects to bus routes and the Luas tram.

Trains from the north and southeast of Ireland

arrive into Connolly, which also connects to the

DART and Luas.

HOW MUCH

FOR A

Cup of tea

€2.90

Pint of Guinness

€5.50

Toasted sandwich

€7

WHEN TO GO

JAN - MAR

Chilly temperatures and short days;

evenings brighter towards March.

APR - JUN

Warmer temperatures and drier

days, but pack for showers.

JUL - SEP

Warmest (Jul–Aug) and driest

weather, but always changeable.

OCT - DEC

Temperatures much cooler, with

shorter days and darker evenings.

GETTING AROUND

Walk The city is very easy to

navigate on foot.

Bus Dublin Bus operates the

county-wide network. Buses run

from around 6am to 11.30pm with

late-night options at weekends.

Download the Dublin Bus app for

live timetables.

Rail There are two Luas tram

lines to the suburbs, and the

DART train runs along the coast

northbound to Howth or Malahide

and southbound to Greystones.

A Leap Card (deposit €5) gives

discounted fares on bus, Luas,

DART and rail; 1-day, 3-day or

7-day Leap Visitor Cards give

unlimited journeys.

ABD/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

EATING & DRINKING

Fish and chips For a traditional takeaway, try smoked cod and chips

from Leo Burdock in Christchurch and Temple Bar, or Beshoffs on

O’Connell St, or dine in and pair beer-battered fish and chips with

natural wine at Fish Shop on Benburb St.

Irish breakfast Sausages, bacon, black and white puddings, tomato,

eggs, toast and a pot of tea – if the ‘full Irish’ isn’t available at your

accommodation, be sure to try it at a cafe.

Must-try sandwich

The Sunday roast

sandwich at Tír Deli (P54)

Best seafood truck

Salty Buoy (P54)

CONNECT & FIND YOUR WAY

Wi-fi Most cafes and hotels have

free wi-fi and wi-fi is also free on

Dublin Bus and Irish Rail.

Navigation The city is divided

into postal districts by address –

Dublin 2, Dublin 7 – with (mostly)

even numbers on the South-

side and odd numbers on the

Northside.

FOR FREE

Many museums and galleries

in Dublin are free, including the

three National Museums, the

National Gallery, the Chester

Beatty, Hugh Lane Gallery and

Irish Museum of Modern Art.

WHERE TO STAY

Dublin can be expensive during festivals or big events. Book in advance

for the best prices.

Neighbourhood

Pro/Con

St Stephen’s

Green and

Harcourt St

Easy access to museums and galleries of the

Georgian area. Nightlife and shopping around

Grafton St.

Temple Bar

Right in the action for nightlife and sightsee-

ing. Can be noisy, especially at weekends.

Ballsbridge

Upmarket suburb with good choice of hotels.

Around a 20-minute walk to the city centre.

Smithfield

Within walking distance of the city centre and

Phoenix Park.

O’Connell St and

City Centre

Good mix of hotels plus budget hostels and

B&Bs. Stick to main, well-lit areas.

The Liberties

Vibrant area, one of Dublin’s oldest. Within

walking distance of the city centre.

MONEY

Credit and debit cards are accepted in most retail

outlets and there are plenty of ATMs. Don’t carry

large amounts of cash. Look out for early-bird meal

offers, family tickets at attractions and student or

senior discounts on tickets.

TOP: FREESKYLINE/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

BOTTOM: JOERG BEUGE/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

01

Fair City of Food

& STOUT

FOOD | DRINK | HISTORY

Farm-to-fork and seasonal

are some of the buzzwords of

Dublin’s food scene, taking full

advantage of Ireland’s outstanding

produce. Some of the best

restaurants are in the suburbs and

there’s still country pubs within

Dublin’s borders.

How to

Getting around For

timetables and route

planning, download

apps from dublinbus.

ie and irishrail.ie. The

DART train ride along

the coast to Blackrock

is particularly lovey.

When to go Anytime

is a good time to eat,

drink and be merry in

Dublin – be prepared

for crowds and queues

during summer.

Money Make sure

you have cash on

hand, especially for

markets and when card

machines occasionally

go down.

Award-winning It’s worth the journey to

Blackrock on Dublin’s south coast to experi-

ence Michelin-quality restaurants like one-

Michelin-starred Liath (liathrestaurant.com)

and Italian restaurant Volpe Nera (volpenera.

ie), which has a Bib Gourmand.

Strictly seasonal, Craft (craftrestaurant.

ie) in Harold’s Cross serves high-end modern

Irish food at very reasonable prices while

Locks Brasserie (locksrestaurant.ie), which

is very popular with locals, serves French

cuisine with an Irish twist. There’s great views

from its location on the Grand Canal.

There are plenty of options for a Middleeast

feast like Brother Hubbard and Shakshuka,

but Shouk (shouk.ie) in Drumcondra is a

Dublin favourite. Their arayes (pitas stuffed

with spices, onions and lamb or beef) are the

best in town.

Weekend

Suburban Markets

Hook’t Fish&Chips in Black-

rock Market (theblack

rockmarket.com) pride

themselves on fresh, locally

caught fish and their chips

are made the traditional way:

hand cut with real Irish spuds.

Try smoked meats from

Man Street Kitchen at the

Red Stables Market

(@RedStablesMarket) in

Raheny on the Northside.

Left Oyster platter Above left Temple Bar

district Above right Olives for sale at a

Dublin market stall

PATRICIA HOFMEESTER/500PX/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

CAROLIN VOELKER/GETTY IMAGES ©

LENSMEN/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Mobile dining The street-food scene has really

taken off with a proliferation of amazing food

trucks all over Dublin. The competition is

fierce, driving up variety and quality.

With tacos to rival the neighbourhood

trucks in New York, La Cocina Cuevas

(lacocinacuevas.com) is worth driving all

the way to the far north of County Dublin

for. Served alongside Birria Quesa Tacos

(slow-cooked beef and Jack cheese), you can

practically drink a cup of its Birria consommé,

it’s so delicious.

You don’t need to hit the coast to salivate

over seafood. The Salty Buoy (saltybuoy.ie)

truck at Peggy Kelly’s pub in Harold’s Cross is

the perfect spot for fresh oysters paired with

a pint of Guinness.

Asian street food doesn’t get any better

than Bites by Kwanghi (@bites_by_kwanghi),

parked at the Leopardstown Inn. It’s difficult

to pick between the hoisin pulled pork and

Korean fried chicken, so just have both.

Sandwich

Obsession

Irish people love sand-

wiches. Dublin’s food

scene may be incredibly

diverse, but a classic

toastie is still an obsession

– especially washed down

with a creamy pint, which

Grogan’s (groganspub.ie)

in the city centre are the

champions of.

Malahide’s Griolladh

(griolladh.ie), which

means ‘grilling’ in Irish, is

taking grilled cheese to

new heights, perfecting

the ‘cheese pull’ with a

triple-cheese blend. Mean-

while, Tír Deli (tirfood.ie)

in south Dublin specialises

in smoked Irish meats. Pair

those meats with roasted

Irish veg, all tucked into

pillowy slices of bread, and

you’ve got yourself a Sun-

day roast in a sandwich.

Pub life Mulligan’s (mulligans.ie) of Poolbeg St

has been dubbed ‘the home of the pint’, serving

generations of Dubliners. James Joyce was a regu-

lar here. But Leonard’s Corner (@leonards

corner) is a worthy rival in the beer stakes. ‘The

Leonard’ is a neighbourhood gem near the Grand

Canal and the barman here prides himself on

pulling the best pint in Dublin.

Built into the wall of one of Dublin’s oldest

cemeteries in the neighbourhood of Glasnevin in

north Dublin, John Kavanagh has quenched the

thirst of gravediggers since 1833 – hence its local

name, ‘The Gravediggers’ (@gravediggers2). The

beautiful Victorian interior has changed very little

with no music or television. Perfect for a quiet pint

and conversation.

Country vibes Set in the foothills of the Dublin

Mountains, The Blue Light (thebluelight.ie) is

a country bar with the best drinking views in the

county. It’s a favourite for its regular music ses-

sions, a cosy fireplace and outdoor seating across

the road for summer days.

In west Dublin on the north side of the River

Liffey, The Wren’s Nest (thewrensnest.ie) in

the Strawberry Beds valley is a true country pub

with roots going back to the late 16th century.

Guinness was bottled here until the 1960s, so they

know a thing or two about ‘the black stuff’.

Left Classic BLT sandwich Below

John Kavanagh pub, also known as

‘The Gravediggers’

LEFT:BARTOSZ LUCZAK/GETTY IMAGES ©,

RIGHT: BRIAN LAWLESS/PA IMAGES VIA GETTY IMAGES ©

02

Family Fun in

THE PARK

PARKS | FAMILY | WILDLIFE

Step into a sprawling

Dublin green space and be

whisked away from the bustle of

the metropolis. Spend the day

discovering why Dubliners are

such fans of the great outdoors

with their attractive parks and

gardens.

How to

Getting around

There’s no need to hire

a car in Dublin city.

Well serviced by many

transport links, parks

are easily accessible

for solo adventurers or

family days out.

When to go Parks are

busiest when there’s a

bit of heat during May

to August and when-

ever the sun is out.

Picnics Join locals

taking their lunchtime

breaks in urban spaces

like St Stephen’s Green

and Dubhlinn Gardens.

Oasis of calm The famous Garden of Remem-

brance on O’Connell St is much loved as a

beautiful resting place, despite being right in

the centre of the metropolis. It’s dedicated to

‘all those who gave their lives in the cause of

Irish Freedom’.

One of the city’s most unusual parks is

Blessington Street Basin, also known as

Dublin’s ’Secret Garden’. It’s less than 15 min-

utes’ walk north from O’Connell St and about

80% of it is water. Surrounded by high stone

walls, the park was formerly the city reservoir

but is now a peaceful retreat for locals.

A slice of urban wild Roaming free, the wild

deer in Phoenix Park were first introduced

in the 1600s. This impressive open space just

3km west of the centre is the largest enclosed

city park in Europe. Locally known as ‘The

PhoenO’, it has 707 hectares of recreational

Become a Tree

Detective

Kids can learn all about

Ireland’s native species in

selected parks by download-

ing Nature Tree Trail packs

(dublincity.ie). The activity

packs include family-friendly

discovery routes as well as

facts about the trees found

across the city’s parks.

Bring a pencil and paper for

rubbings.

Left Garden of Remembrance

Above left Fallow deer, Phoenix Park

Above right Tulips, National Botanic

Gardens (p58)

DESIGN PICS/PATRICK SWAN/GETTY IMAGES ©

YULIA PLEKHANOVA/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

TRABANTOS/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

space to explore and it’s an important site of

urban biodiversity. Nearby Dublin Zoo is also

a family favourite.

The National Botanic Gardens in Glas-

nevin is a heavenly, peaceful place for a stroll

– particularly on a summer’s day. Visitors

of all ages will be enthralled by its exten-

sive grounds, walled gardens and restored

glasshouses. Right next door is Glasnevin

Cemetery, another historical landmark that

is accessible via a walkway from the Botanic

Gardens. Perfect for a stroll on an autumn

afternoon.

Beyond Dublin Centre

Hotfoot it to St Anne’s Park (Clontarf East)

for acres of green space just 30 minutes from

the centre by Dublin Bus. The park is top for

dog owners, with a space specifically for dogs

to meet up and make friends.

Places for

Parents

Corkagh Park Often

overlooked, this Clondalkin

park is a green jewel in an

expanding city. The 120

hectares has rolling hills,

native trees, a rose garden, a

fairy wood, a Viking-themed

playground, fishing lakes

and even its own campsite.

St Stephen’s Green Com-

plete with a playground

for tots and enough signs

of the city’s living history

for older kids, the Green’s

location is ideal for a quick

breather between shop-

ping and snacking.

Marlay Park This park in

the Southside suburbs

of Rathfarnham and

Ballinteer has cafes, craft

shops, playgrounds, sports

facilities and even a mini-

ature railway.

Recommended by Peter

Kavanagh, podcaster and

Clondalkin politician

@thekavofficial

On Saturday mornings, see people practicing

tai chi organised by Suaimhneas (taichi

chuan.ie) in front of the entrance to the walled

garden. St Anne’s also has a Remote-Control

Car Track, where racers take their miniature cars

out on the tracks while onlookers cheer from the

sidelines.

Parks outside Dublin’s urban core are usually

quieter. With views of Dublin Bay, Blackrock Park

is 30 minutes southbound from the centre and

has a pleasant cycle path, outdoor exercise equip-

ment and a serene pond complete with an island.

Further south, do as the locals do and take a

hike in Killiney Hill Park. Enjoy incredible views

and ships across the Irish Sea and gaze towards

Dalkey Island. The pathways here are brushed by

woodland and vibrant yellow gorse. The park is ac-

cessible as a day trip from the city centre and is a

20-minute walk from the DART station at Killiney.

Heading 30 minutes northwest from central

Dublin, Tolka Valley Regional Park is another

worthy escape, with undulating fields, tranquil

meadowlands and a babbling river slicing through

300 acres.

Left St Stephen’s Green Below Mute

swan, Blackrock Park

LEFT: TRABANTOS/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

RIGHT: FIREGLO/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

03

Revolutionary

DUBLIN

HISTORY | CULTURE | LANDMARKS

Dublin is where many of Ireland’s most subversive moments took place

during the 1900s. The country went through many turbulent revolts to separate

itself from British rule in the early part of the 20th century, most notably three

revolutionary conflicts – the 1916 Easter Rising, the War of Independence and

the Irish Civil War.

How to

Getting around City

centre revolutionary sites

are easily accessed by

foot. For places further

away like Glasnevin

Cemetery, take the local

Dublin Bus or cycle using

the bike-share scheme

(dublinbikes.ie).

When to go Top attrac-

tions are particularly

popular with tourists

come summertime.

Hear the Proclama-

tion Commemoration

of the 1916 Rising takes

place on Easter Sunday

morning outside the

GPO. The National Flag is

lowered at noon and the

Proclamation is read.

SEMMICK PHOTO/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

DAMIEN STORAN/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Whirlwind Tour

A taste of revolution Dublin’s impressive General Post Office,

opened in 1818, houses the GPO Museum commemorating

the 1916 Easter Rising. The GPO itself is a landmark of great

significance to modern Irish history, as the former headquar-

ters of the uprising leaders. It was from outside here that

Patrick Pearse read out the Proclamation of the Irish Republic.

Within walking distance of the GPO, The Four Courts (Inns

Quay) is where the Civil War began on 28 June 1922, when the

National Army attacked an anti-Treaty garrison. The fighting

raged for 60 hours.

Iconic women Though women played a vital part in the revo-

lution, there are few landmarks that represent their input. Two

notable exceptions are the statue of nationalist Constance

Markievicz with her beloved dog Poppett on Tara St and,

further afield in Fingal, a plaque to Mary ‘Molly’ Adrian on the

bridge in the charming village of Oldtown. Molly was a veteran

of the 1916 Rising and the director of the Lusk branch of

Cumann na mBan, an all-female auxiliary group.

Echoes of conflict During the early 20th century right through

to 1923, many revolutionaries fell. Some of the most import-

ant leaders and suffragists are commemorated at Glasnevin

Cemetery. Here you can find the graves of fighters including

humanitarian Roger Casement, writer Arthur Griffith and suf-

fragette Maud Gonne. Arbour Hill Cemetery is the burial place

of 14 leaders of the Rising including Patrick Pearse and James

Connolly, who were executed at Kilmainham Gaol in 1916.

Left Glasnevin Cemetery Far left top

Four Courts Far left bottom Reading

of the Proclamation

Revolutionary

Women

Despite the lack of phys-

ical Dublin tributes, the

importance of Irish wom-

en during the conflicts

cannot go unmentioned.

Cumann na mBan,

an all-female auxiliary

who partook in the fight

for Irish freedom, was

founded at Wynn’s Hotel

in 1914.

Nearby, 44 Gardiner

St has a memorial plaque

honouring Molly O’Reilly.

As a teenager, she raised

the symbolic green flag

with the gold harp over

Liberty Hall before the

1916 Rising.

During the Civil War,

many women were im-

prisoned at Kilmainham

Gaol, including political

cartoonist Grace Gifford

Plunkett whose restored

mural can still be seen

there.

Recommended by tour

guide Marteen Lane

(marteenlane.com;

@marteenlane)

SEMMICK PHOTO/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

KEY PLAYERS

in a Revolution

01 Thomas J Clarke

A leading figure in

the Irish Republican

Brotherhood (IRB). The

first signatory of the

Proclamation of the

Irish Republic.

02 Patrick Pearse

Irish language activist

and headmaster, Pearse

was the military and

political leader of the

rebel forces in the

Easter Rising (1916)

.

03 Francis Sheehy-

Skeffington

Dedicated pacifist and

suffragist, murdered by

a British military officer

during the Rising after

being taken hostage.

04 Joseph Plunkett

Born into a wealthy

family, Plunkett was the

main military strategist

for the rebel military

forces during the

Rising.

05 Roger Casement

Humanitarian and 1916

leader who exposed

abuses in the Congo. He

was convicted of high

treason against the

Crown and hanged in

London.

06 Constance

Markievicz

Suffragette and

nationalist, she was

elected Minister for

Labour in the First Dáil.

The first female cabinet

minister in Europe.

07 Kathleen Lynn

The chief medical

officer with the Irish

Citizen Army during

the Rising. She

was imprisoned in

Kilmainham Gaol with

Markievicz.

08 Elizabeth

O’Farrell

Arguably part of the

most pivotal moment of

the Rising by delivering

the message of

surrender to the British

troops.

09 Grace Gifford

Plunkett

A political cartoonist

who married Joseph

Plunkett hours

before his execution.

Following the Rising,

she produced much

nationalist propaganda.

10 Michael Collins

Played a leading

role throughout the

Irish struggle for

independence. He was

director of intelligence

for the IRA and leader

of the IRB.

11 Arthur Griffith

Founder of the party

Sinn Féin, Griffith led

the Irish negotiations

that produced the

Anglo-Irish Treaty.

Signed it with Collins.

12 Éamon de Valera

Fought in the Rising,

became the political

leader of the Irish

revolutionary

movement. Later

was Taoiseach and

President of

Ireland.

13 Maud Gonne

Suffragette

and republican

revolutionary who

opposed the Treaty. She

set up the Womens’

Prisoner Defence

League.

01, 02 History and Art Collection/Alamy Stock Photo ©, 03, 04, 05, 06, 07 Courtesy of the National Library of Ireland ©, 07 TobyG/SHUTTERSTOCK ©,

08 public domain ©, 09, 10, 11 Courtesy of the National Library of Ireland ©, 12 History and Art Collection/Alamy Stock Photo ©, 13 Public Domain ©

A Nation

Divided

HOW IRELAND BECAME

TWO STATES

The Irish Revolution

encompassed a

series of events that

marked incredible

political upheaval

across the island.

Understanding

the impact of the

country’s most

turbulent times

makes a visit to

Ireland and its

capital city Dublin

a more enriching

experience.

Left Proclamation of the Irish

Respublic Middle Kilmainham

Gaol (p75) Right Easter Parade

commemorating the 1916 Rising

By 1912, Irish nationalism was on the rise and Irish Home

Rule legislation was due to be passed by the British

parliament in Westminster. Home Rule would give Ireland

limited self-government within the British Empire. Irish

unionists – those who wished to remain under British

rule, mainly based in northeast Ulster – intended to resist

Home Rule, primarily in the form of a militia known as the

Ulster Volunteer Force (UVF).

In response, the nationalist Irish Volunteers were formed

as a defensive militia. However, a separatist minority in

Ireland, represented by the secret society known as the

Irish Republican Brotherhood (IRB), desired complete Irish

independence and an end to 700 years of British rule.

As Irish historian Gerard Shannon explains, ‘Key leaders

of the IRB infiltrated the Volunteers to use the organisa-

tion as a means for rebellion. Their chance came with the

outbreak of WWI in 1914. With thousands of Irishmen joining

the British army and dying in the trenches of Europe, the

IRB believed “England’s difficulty was Ireland’s opportunity”.’

Their planned insurrection, the Easter Rising, took place in

April 1916. A Proclamation signed by the leaders declared

the independent Irish Republic and over 1500 rebels took

over key locations in Dublin. However, the British military

crushed them after a week and the leading figures were

executed.

Aftermath of the Rising

Gerard notes that following this conflict there was an

upsurge of sympathy for the rebels. The separatist party

Sinn Féin, wrongly blamed for the Rising, won over 70

seats at the 1918 British general election. With their elec-

AITORMMFOTO/GETTY IMAGES ©

toral mandate, the Sinn Féin MPs formed Dáil Éireann, an Irish

parliament for the independent Irish Republic declared in 1916.

From January 1919, the Irish War of Independence began.

The Irish Republic’s underground institutions acted as a

counter-state to the British administration in Ireland. The

resurgent Irish Volunteers, now known as the Irish Republican

Army (IRA), began a guerrilla campaign and intelligence war

against the British forces in

Ireland. The war ended with

a truce in July 1921, and Sinn

Féin representatives nego-

tiated the Anglo-Irish Treaty

with the British cabinet that

December. This lead to the

creation of the Irish Free

State – not a republic, but a

self-governing dominion of

the British Empire. It con-

sisted of 26 counties. The remaining six counties of northeast

Ulster made up Northern Ireland, governed by a unionist ma-

jority, functioning as its own entity within the United Kingdom.

A bitter political split followed in both Sinn Féin and the IRA.

Those opposed felt the Free State fell far short of an indepen-

dent Irish Republic and was a betrayal of what was fought for.

Those in support felt the Free State could be used as an eventual

’stepping stone’ to complete freedom for Ireland. This dispute

led to the Irish Civil War, beginning in June 1922. The intensely

violent conflict lasted 11 months and ended in victory for the

Irish Free State. In 1948, the Free State declared itself as the

independent Republic of Ireland and withdrew from the British

Commonwealth.

With thousands of

Irishmen joining the

British army and dying

in the trenches of

Europe, the IRB believed

‘England’s difficulty was

Ireland’s opportunity’.

Revolutionary

Moments on Film

Michael Collins (1996)

Though this film by Neil Jor-

dan was criticised for some

historical inaccuracies, Liam

Neeson was widely praised for

his passionate portrayal of the

1916 leader.

Rebellion (2016) This

five-part serial drama told

the story of the 1916 Rising

through the perspective of

characters living through the

political turbulence.

Mise Éire (1959) Newsreels

and original footage feature in

this documentary about the

revolutionary events in 1916

and following years.

The Wind that Shakes

the Barley (2006) An

action-packed drama about

brothers during the War of

Independence. Ken Loach’s

film won Palme d’Or at the

2006 Cannes Film Festival.

DAVID SVESTKA/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

LONNDUBH/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

04

Sea Air Around

DALKEY

SCENIC | COASTAL | ACTIVE

Pack a picnic and leave the city centre behind for a refreshing coastal walk.

This one starts in the heritage town of Dalkey, which had seven castles in the

Middle Ages and still has ruins. You can walk up steps through a forest trail to

the top of Killiney or Dalkey Hill for beautiful sea views, or take a stroll on the

pebble beach.

How to

Getting there Take the DART from the city centre to Dalkey station (around

30 minutes, irishrail.ie). If driving, park at Dalkey DART station or use on-street

parking (fees apply). There are some steep hills and the walk goes through a

park so is not suitable for bikes.

When to go Year-round, but spring, summer and autumn are the nicest times.

Top tip Drop in to Select Stores (selectstoresdalkey.ie) in Dalkey for fresh

juices and smoothies.

Top of

the Rock

Granite was pulled

out of Dalkey

Quarry for many

years — the

covetable rock was

used to build Dún

Laoghaire Piers from

1815 to 1817, as well

as the Great South

Wall at Dublin Port in

1795. Nowadays the

disused quarry is a

popular rock-

climbing location.

Organise lessons

with Go Beyond

Adventure (gobeyond

adventure.ie).

LAURIE NOBLE/GETTY IMAGES ©

01  Visit Dalkey

Castle and Heritage

Centre (pictured left)

for a one-hour tour

that includes a live

theatre performance,

exhibitions on local

heritage and a writer’s

gallery.

02  Killiney Hill Park has

looped trails to the top

of Dalkey Hill and Killiney

Hill, as well as superb

views over Dublin Bay,

Killiney Bay and to the

Sugarloaf Mountain.

03  Walk the Vico Road

back to the village to

enjoy more sea views –

there are steps down to

White Rock bathing place,

which connects to Killiney

Beach at low tide.

04  Coliemore Harbour is

a hub for fishing and div-

ing. Take the small ferry

across to Dalkey Island

(summer months) or visit

nearby Biddy’s Cottage

(86 Coliemore Rd) for

food and storytelling.

05  At Bullock Harbour visit

the ruins of Bullock Castle,

which dates from 1205, or

take a kayaking tour along the

coast back to Dalkey Island

(kayaking.ie).

MARC DUFRESNE/GETTY IMAGES ©,

IRENE FOX/SHUTTERSTOCK ©,

LUKAS FENDEK/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

DUBLIN BAY

Wildlife

01 Gulls

Gulls are present

year-round, including

Mediterranean gulls,

black-headed gulls and

herring gulls, which nest

around Dalkey Island.

02 Cormorants

These birds are often

spotted sitting on rocks

around the bay, spread-

ing out their wings to

dry after diving for fish.

03 Terns

Some of Europe’s rarest

seabirds, Arctic terns,

sandwich terns, com-

mon terns and roseate

terns are all regular

visitors to the bay.

04 Oystercatchers

Easy to spot with their

bright orange bills and

pink legs, oystercatch-

ers wade around rocky

areas looking for worms

and shellfish to feed on.

05 Brent geese

Light-bellied brent

geese migrate from

Arctic Canada for

autumn and winter –

they are spotted around

North Bull Island and

Booterstown Nature

Reserve.

06 Grey herons

Lone grey herons are

often spotted sitting

motionless on rocks

along the shore around

the bay, ready to strike

for prey.

07 Short-eared

owls

Often found hunting,

seen most often on

North Bull Island and

sometimes on Dalkey

Island.

08 Seals

There are populations

of both common seals

and larger grey seals at

North Bull Island and

at Lamb Island beside

Dalkey Island.

09 Porpoises and

dolphins

Harbour porpoises are

often spotted around

Dalkey Island, while

small pods of bottlenose

and common dolphins

can be found in the bay.

10 Rabbits and

hares

There are Irish hares

and rabbits in the

grasslands at North Bull

Island, and Dalkey Island

also has a population of

rabbits.

11 Butterflies

Species that favour

Dublin Bay include the

marsh fritillary butterfly,

with its orange and

cream-patterned wings.

12 Jellyfish

These include common

jellyfish, transparent

with four distinct rings,

which are often spotted

drifting around the

bay between April and

September.

01 ERIC ISSELEE/SHUTTERSTOCK ©, 02 FIREGLO/SHUTTERSTOCK ©, 03 DAVID OBRIEN/SHUTTERSTOCK ©, 04 MARK L STANLEY/GETTY IMAGES ©, 05 SANDRA

STANDBRIDGE/SHUTTERSTOCK © 06 ERIC ISSELEE/SHUTTERSTOCK ©, 07 TOBYG/SHUTTERSTOCK ©, 08 ESTHER MOLINé/GETTY IMAGES ©, 09 JOOST VAN UFFELEN/

SHUTTERSTOCK ©, 10 MIKROMAN6/GETTY IMAGES ©, 11 NATURE PHOTOGRAPHERS LTD/ALAMY STOCK PHOTO

05

Hiking in

HOWTH

ACTIVE | SEAFOOD | OUTDOORS

Long ago Howth was an island, and to this day there’s still something

about the place that gives it an island vibe. Take a walk on the cliffs or hike

through the gorse on Howth Head to shake off the big city and work up an

appetite for fresh seafood in the village.

How to

Getting here The best way to get to Howth from Dublin city is by DART (around

26 minutes) or Dublin Bus (number 31).

When to go Spring and summer for fragrant gorse and rhododendrons. The

harbour and main Cliff Path can get crowded on sunny weekends and holidays.

Tasty tip Howth is a fishing village, so this is the place to tuck into fish and

chips; the freshest are from Beshoffs (beshoffs.ie).

The Insider

Scoop on Howth

Sign up for a four-

hour Howth Safari

Hiking Tour with

Shane’s Howth

Adventures (shane

showthadventures.

com) to learn all

about the nature and

history of the Howth

peninsula. Shane will

take you to Howth

Castle and the Cliff

Path, sharing local

legends and refer-

ences while pointing

out secret trails along

the way.

35007/GETTY IMAGES ©

01  Potter around Howth

Harbour (pictured left)

and pier, check out the

ruins of St Mary’s Abbey

and visit Howth Market

to stock up on picnic

treats before starting your

walk.

02  The Cliff Path runs

from the harbour along

the peninsula’s cliffs and

around past the Baily

Lighthouse. Turn off at

The Summit to loop back

to the village.

03  HG Wells wrote that the view

from Muck Rock over Howth

Harbour, Ireland’s Eye island and

south over Dublin Bay was ‘one

of the most beautiful views in the

world’.

04  Aideen’s Grave, a

megalithic portal tomb,

is said to have been the

burial place of the wife

of Oscar, grandson of the

legendary warrior Fionn

MacCumhaill.

05  Walk the grounds of

Howth Castle to see the

rhododendron gardens

in bloom, to explore

overgrown walking trails

and to see the gates that

pirate queen Grace O’

Malley once called on.

TRABANTOS/SHUTTERSTOCK ©,

OSHEAPHOTOGRAPHY/GETTY IMAGES ©

06

Cultural

DUBLIN

CULTURE | ART | FESTIVALS

One of the best things about Dublin is that you can immerse yourself in

culture of all types. One day you can be admiring the Book of Kells, listening to

literary stories at the Dublin Writers Museum or learning about 19th-century

Irish emigration. The next you might be captivated by some theatre or live

music, or swept up in a local festival.

How to

Getting here Most of the

main cultural venues are

in Dublin city, which is

very walkable.

How much Most galleries

and museums – such

as the National Gallery,

the National Museum of

Ireland and the RHA – are

free. Charges vary for

theatre, concerts and live

music performances.

Book worms The

Chester Beatty museum

and library in Dublin

Castle has a fascinating

collection of rare books

and manuscripts from

around the world.

NIALL CARSON/PA IMAGES VIA GETTY IMAGES ©

JONATHAN SMITH/LONELY PLANET ©

RHA Gallery Has a mix of Irish and international art, with five

different galleries, one dedicated to emerging Irish artists. ‘I

love going to the RHA, it is so immense,’ says Sheena Barrett,

curator of the LAB Gallery. ‘You can see so much work, or see

one show if you have a short amount of time.’

National Museum of Ireland – Decorative Arts and

History Located in the former Collins Barracks. ‘I love when

you walk into the square, there is such an incredible feeling

of being part of history,’ says Sheena. ‘I love seeing the Irish

designers like Sybil Connolly and I love social history, getting

a sense of what people’s lives were like, such as when you go

into the exhibition of Georgian Dublin and see the extravagant

tableware they had.’

14 Henrietta Street Tells the story of how one address

went from Georgian townhouse to a tenement dwelling over

the years, and the personal stories of those who lived there.

‘It’s one house seen through the lens of different ages and

timeframes,’ says Sheena. ‘You can physically see the layers of

history in the building. The guides are often local Dubs who are

passing on memories that their grandparents told them about

living in the area.’

EPIC At the fully digital Irish Emigration Museum, you can

learn the stories of famous Irish emigrants and about Ireland’s

impact on the world with everything from music and sport to

design and innovation, through interactive exhibits. Afterwards

you can explore your own Irish roots at the Irish Family History

Centre.

Left Gandini Juggling, Dublin Dance

Festival preview Far left top MACNAS

arts production, Dublin Fringe Festival

Far left bottom Koran, Chester

Beatty Library

Best Festivals

Dublin Fringe Festival

Dublin comes alive over

16 days and nights every

September with a variety

of talent across a range of

performing arts.

(fringefest.com)

Dublin Dance Festival

Two weeks of the most

creative and visionary

Irish and international

dance performances

around the city every May.

(dublindancefestival.ie)

International Literature

Festival Dublin A two-

week May celebration of

Irish and international

authors, poets, play-

wrights, screenwriters and

lyricists. Expect readings,

guided walks and screen-

ings. (ilfdublin.com)

Bloomsday Celebrating

the fictional day from

James Joyce’s Ulysses,

and its central character

Leopold Bloom, with

readings and performanc-

es every 16 June.

(bloomsdayfestival.ie)

NIALL CARSON/PA IMAGES VIA GETTY IMAGES ©

Listings

BEST OF THE REST

Cosy Pub Snugs

Doheny & Nesbitt

Take your pick of snugs in this Lower Baggot

St spot – in Victorian times, these tiny rooms

were partitioned off near the bar, for privacy

for those who didn’t want to be seen.

Toners

You’re very lucky if you get a coveted spot in

the front snug in Toners, also on Lower Bag-

got St. It’s full of character and poet WB Yeats

apparently once drank here.

Kehoes

This South Anne St gem dates to 1803 and

you can still see the old wooden partitions,

drawers and grocery counter from Victorian

times. There’s a serving hatch connecting the

snug to the bar.

The Stag’s Head

There’s plenty of room in the snug behind this

beautiful Victorian bar in the city. Wood pan-

elling, mirrors, stained-glass windows, plush

seats and candlelight add to the atmosphere.

Tea & Cake

Bewley’s €

If you like people-watching and buzz, get a

pot of Irish breakfast tea and a cherry bun

and settle in to soak up the atmosphere in

this traditional Grafton Stet cafe.

Queen of Tarts €

Tuck into cakes, seasonal crumbles, delicate

pastries and of course delicious tarts of all

flavours. There’s a branch on Dame St and

another nearby on Cow’s Lane.

The Shelbourne €€€

Treat yourself to traditional afternoon tea

in the Lord Mayor’s Lounge overlooking St

Stephen’s Green, with the full works – tea in

china cups and tiered stands with delicate

sandwiches, scones and desserts.

Bread 41 €

Grab a seat at the communal table in this

Pearse St bakery and tuck into all things sour-

dough, leaving room for croissants and fresh

pastries (arrive early at weekends as things

often sell out).

Wall & Keogh €

This Portobello favourite has all types of black,

green, yellow and white loose-leaf tea, with ev-

erything from Earl Grey and Rooibos to Oolong

and Maté, plus a menu of snacks and treats.

Interactive Exhibits

MoLI

Visit the Museum of Literature Ireland to see

the first copy of Ulysses, listen to audio advice

from Irish writers, and then write the first line

of your own novel on a blank page.

Queen of Tarts

CKTRAVELS.COM/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

EPIC

In this fully digital Irish Emigration Museum

in Custom House Quay, you can swipe

through pages of books, hear stories of Irish

characters, send a digital postcard and then

explore your Irish roots.

The Little Museum of Dublin

Play a music box, pull the handle on a vintage

slot machine and either guide yourself or take

a tour around this lovely museum overlooking

St Stephen’s Green.

Guinness Storehouse

Learn to pull the perfect pint at the Guinness

Academy or even put your own face on a pint,

before enjoying the views from the rooftop

Gravity Bar.

Kilmainham Gaol

Get an idea what it was like to be incarcerated

here by standing inside a cell in this jail. It

opened in 1796 and various leaders of Irish

rebellions have been imprisoned here over

the years.

Words on the Street

Marsh’s Library

Walk the aisles and soak up the history of

Dublin’s first library, which opened behind St

Patrick’s Cathedral in 1707 and has tall book-

cases full of old books from all over the world.

Ulysses Rare Books

Browse in this Duke St shop to find your own

copies of Irish writers like Patrick Kavanagh,

Seamus Heaney and John Banville, plus rare

editions of James Joyce, Oscar Wilde and

WB Yeats.

Gutter Bookshop

This Temple Bar favourite is the ideal place

to stock up on books about Irish history,

Irish folk tales and great contemporary Irish

writing.

Long Room, Trinity College

The Last Bookshop

Drop in to this Camden St treasure trove for

books on art, history and literature, with col-

lectibles like Seamus Heaney poetry. Look out

for the resident dogs, Bertie and Gussie, too.

Long Room, Trinity

Come here to see the Book of Kells, and soak

up the scents from ancient leather bound

books – there are more than 200,000 on the

shelves and it’s been a library since 1732.

Dublin Literary Pub Crawl

Take a fun evening jaunt around some historic

Dublin pubs, with live sketches to bring alive

the stories of the pubs and the writers associ-

ated with them.

Green Escapes

St Stephen’s Green

Escape here from the bustle of nearby

Grafton St – there’s an ornamental lake

full of ducks, tree-lined paths and plenty of

benches and grassy spots for picnics in good

weather.

Iveagh Gardens

Opposite St Stephen’s and a bit more rustic

than the other parks in the south city. Stroll

these gardens to find secret pathways

through old trees, a maze, an ancient sundial.

SALVADOR MANIQUIZ/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Grand Canal

Take a peaceful walk along the tree-lined

banks here, beloved by poet Patrick Kavana-

gh, and you might spot some wildlife or the

resident swans around Portobello.

Spirit of the City

Roe & Co Distillery

Taste the different whiskey ingredients and

learn all about distilling on James’s St, before

shaking up your own cocktail at the Cocktail

Workshop Experience and then relaxing in the

Power House Bar.

The Dublin Liberties Distillery

Sample a honeycomb liqueur and hear stories

of Dublin’s medieval days in this working

distillery in the Liberties area.

Teeling Whiskey Distillery

Learn how Dublin was once at the centre of

the world’s whiskey-making, and tour through

the production area, copper stills and cask

room before a whiskey tasting.

Pearse Lyons Distillery

Look around the old graveyard here, where

everyone from sailors to vicars were buried,

before exploring the old St James’ Church

where the working distillery is located.

Jameson Distillery

Tour the original Dublin whiskey experience

on Bow St to find out more about how the

amber liquid is made, then test the flavours

against other whiskeys at a tasting.

Vintage & Antique

Jenny Vander

Browse this Drury St treasure trove for pieces

that date as far back as the 1700s, with lots

of beaded handbags, scarves and designer

jewels from the 19th and early 20th centuries.

Delphi Antiques

Set in a lovely walkway in Powerscourt

Townhouse Centre. Dazzle your eyes with an

abundance of silver and all types of vintage

jewels.

Spindizzy Records

Pop in to the Market Arcade off South Great

Georges St to hear vintage sounds and

browse vinyl and CDs in all genres. Second-

hand dance 12-inches are a speciality.

O’Sullivan Antiques

Francis St in the Liberties is the place for an-

tique furniture – step back in time in this shop

for Georgian and Regency pieces, art, statues

and lighting.

Nine Crows Vintage

Visit this Temple Bar favourite for a blast

from the not-too-distant past with thrift and

vintage clothing, including many unworn or

on-trend items that have been reworked.

For Foot-Tapping

The Cobblestone

Tap your feet at this Smithfield favourite

any night of the week at a traditional music

session – there are regular uilleann pipes ses-

sions, plus sean-nós (‘old-style’ songs), céilidh

(dances) and set dancing.

O’Donoghue’s

The famous music bar on Merrion Row where

the Dubliners first started. Grab a stool near

the front if you want to sing along with one of

the regular traditional music sessions here.

Whelan’s

Don’t miss this famous live music venue on

Wexford St, which regularly hosts visiting

and local bands of all genres. There are three

different stages and the front bar also hosts

regular free gigs.

Vicar Street

Book in to this intimate music and comedy

venue on Thomas St with around 1,000 seats,

for a mix of live music acts and stand-up

performers. Look out for Irish favourites, Foil

Arms and Hog.

City Secrets

Dark Dublin Tour

Hear all about the spooky side of the city on

this two-hour walking tour with Alternative

Dublin, which tells terrifying stories of grave

robbing, torture and serial killers from history.

Pat Liddy’s Walking Tours

There’s very little that Pat and his guides

don’t know about Dublin’s history, so let them

show you around and tell you lots of secrets

of the streets.

Fab Food Trails

Eat your way around the city and try local

Irish produce on this Dublin walking tour,

which includes new trends and visits some

gastronomic gems.

City Sightseeing Hop-On Hop-Off Bus

The guides on these hop-on, hop-off buses

are so entertaining, you might not want to

actually get off. It’s a great way to get around

the city and to places like Kilmainham Gaol.

Dublin Ulysses Tours

Don’t worry if you haven’t read the book – im-

merse yourself in all things Joyce on a walking

tour of the places that were mentioned in

Ulysses the novel, starting in the Palace Bar.

Food with Views

The Winding Stair €€

Irish cuisine overlooking the River Liffey – for

a special night, book the small dining area

overlooking the Ha’penny Bridge.

Vicar Street

Sophie’s at The Dean €€

Absorb 360-degree views of the city over food

and cocktails in this popular rooftop restaurant

on Harcourt St.

The Pepper Pot €

Take a perch along the balcony in the Powers-

court Townhouse Centre and watch the world

go past below as you tuck into tasty breakfast,

lunch, coffee or pastries baked on-site.

Oliveto at Haddington House €€

Indulge in Italian food on the patio or garden

in Dún Laoghaire, with views of the pier and

over to Sandycove, and just a DART ride from

the city centre.

Rooftop Bar at The Marker Hotel €€

On a sunny evening, get settled into the roof-

top bar of this docklands hotel for views of the

Dublin Bay and Dublin Mountains with sunset

cocktails and sharing boards.

Canalboat Restaurant €€€

Get on board for a three-hour dinner cruise

along part of the Grand Canal in the south

city. During the trip, you’ll get to see how

some of the canal locks work.

Scan for things to see, do

and try in Dublin

PAUL KEELING/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

WICKLOW

NATURE | GARDENS | NATIONAL PARK

Experience

Wicklow

online

Wicklow National Park

► Gardens & Homes

(p84)

► The Garden of Ireland

(p88)

► Seaside Ventures

(p90)

► Wandering Wicklow

(p92)

► Listings (p96)

Peter Krocka/shutterstock ©

Explore the gardens

and tour the distillery

at Powerscourt

House & Gardens

(p85)

½ day

Admire lake views on a tour

of Russborough House &

Parklands (p86)

½ day

Forage for fruits, nuts and

mushrooms on a guided walk

(p89)

½ day

Find forest glens and a water-

fall in Glenmalure Valley

(p93)

1 day

WICKLOW

TRIP BUILDER

Walk in a forest, stroll the gardens of a stately home

or climb a mountain for rewarding views – there’s plenty to

keep you busy in Wicklow, known as ‘the Garden of Ireland’.

Immerse yourself in gorgeous landscapes or take to the coast

for refreshing coastal walks and golden beaches.

Catch your breath on

a summit hike up

Lugnaquilla (p93)

8 hr

Explore bookable

experiences in

Wicklow online

Kayak around Bray Head and

meet friendly seals (p91)

½ day

Soak in the old-world

atmosphere at Killruddery

House & Gardens (p86)

½ day

Picnic by the river at Clara

Vale Nature Reserve

(p95)

½ day

Stroll tree-lined paths and

admire wild flowers at the

National Botanic Gardens,

Kilmacurragh p870)

½ day

Try surfing, paddleboarding

or sunbathing at Brittas Bay

(p91)

½ day

STEFANO_VALERI/SHUTTERSTOCK ©,

PAUL & PAVEENA MCKENZIE/GETTY IMAGES ©,

CTATIANA/SHUTTERSTOCK ©,

GBURN/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Practicalities

ARRIVING

By train The DART runs from Dublin to Bray

and Greystones and there are Irish Rail trains

to Wicklow, Rathdrum and Arklow. From here,

connect to local buses or taxi.

By car The M11 motorway runs south through

County Wicklow. If driving directly to Glendal-

ough, note that car parks can fill up early on

weekends and bank holidays.

HOW MUCH

FOR A

Surf lesson

€45

Whiskey tasting

€25

Gardens entry

€8.50

WHEN TO GO

JAN - MAR

Chilly, short days but evenings

brighter towards spring.

APR - JUN

Warmer, drier days and bursts of colour

in gardens. Be prepared for showers.

JUL - SEP

Warmest and driest in

July and August.

OCT - DEC

Much cooler, but beautiful

autumn colours in the forests.

GETTING AROUND

Train Services run mostly along

the coast.

Bus Services exist between the

main towns, but it is not easy to

get between the attractions using

public transport.

Car The best way to get around;

popular spots get busy with day-

trippers from Dublin at weekends

and holidays.

ELECTRIC EGG/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

EATING & DRINKING

Organic This is the garden of Ireland – go organic at the Strawberry

Tree (P97) or try foraging for wild food with Wicklow Wild Foods (P89).

Cookery schools Learn to cook seasonal local dishes at Ballyknocken

(P97) or cook on an open fire with Tipi Adventures (p89).

Best whiskey tasting

Powerscourt Distillery (p89)

Must-try berry wine

Wicklow Way Wines (p89)

CONNECT & FIND YOUR WAY

Wi-fi Available free of charge

in most cafes, restaurants and

accommodations. 4G mobile cov-

erage is generally good but may

be patchy in the mountains.

Navigation Plan your driving

routes in advance as many of the

roads are small. There are compa-

nies providing baggage shuttles if

you’re walking the Wicklow Way.

WICKLOW PASSPORT

Keep track of the places you visit

with a Wicklow Passport (€2),

which can be stamped in towns

and villages across the county

(visitwicklow.ie/passport).

WHERE TO STAY

Place

Pro/Con

Glendalough

Peaceful village setting; direct access to

scenic Glendalough Valley.

Ashford

Sleeping options like Tinakilly Country House,

with gardens and sea views, Hunter’s Hotel or

Ballyknocken House.

Enniskerry

Gorgeous village, adjacent to the Powerscourt

Estate and waterfall.

Dunlavin

This is where you’ll find Rathsallagh House,

set on 500 acres with thousands of trees.

Macreddin Village

Check into BrookLodge for organic food, golf

and pub in a quiet, countryside setting.

MONEY

Credit and debit cards are widely accepted. Bring

any cash you need in advance as you may not find

ATMs easily.

TOP: ROMAN_OVERKO/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

BOTTOM: ROMAN_OVERKO/GETTY IMAGES ©

07

Gardens &

HOMES

GARDENS | NATURE | DAY TRIPS

County Wicklow is a

nature lover’s delight and a stroll

around some of its stately homes

and gardens is a lovely, calming

experience. Feel the weight of

history in grand formal gardens,

wander among ancient oaks

and admire swaying wild-flower

meadows.

How to

Getting around

Powerscourt (Ennisker-

ry village) and Killrud-

dery (around 2.5km

from Bray) are served

by buses. Russborough

House (Blessington)

has limited bus access

and you’ll need a car to

get to Kilmacurragh.

When to go Spring

for rhododendrons,

summer for wild-

flowers, autumn for

colour. In good weather,

the gardens get packed

with Dubliners on day

trips.

Time for tea All of

the gardens have cafes

for post-stroll

refreshments.

Aristocratic grandeur One of the county’s

grandest mansions and gardens is Power-

scourt House & Gardens (powerscourt.

com), set on a magnificent estate overlooking

the Wicklow countryside and the Sugarloaf

Mountain. The house and gardens date back

to 1730 and the 47 acres includes formal

walks, walled gardens and a Japanese garden,

as well as a terrace cafe and distillery.

‘Powerscourt is the aristocratic garden.

You’ve got huge urns, enormous fountains,

Victorian wrought-iron railings and ornate

gates,’ says Seamus O’Brien, head gardener at

the National Botanic Gardens in Kilmacurragh.

‘Powerscourt is remarkable for its trees – the

towering giant redwoods and beech trees.

There’s a beech avenue that sweeps up from

the incredibly ornate gateway. In autumn, those

beech trees turn russet and it’s just beautiful.’

Best of the Rest

Other great Wicklow houses,

parks and gardens include

Avondale House & Forest

Park for woodland walks

or historic house tours;

Glendalough in the Wicklow

Mountains National Park for

lakes, walks and a 6th-century

monastic village; and Mount

Usher Gardens in Ashford for

riverside walks and carpets of

spring blooms.

Left Glendalough

Above left Powerscourt House & Gardens

Above right Russborough House

DAWID K PHOTOGRAPHY/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

CINEMATOGRAPHPICTURES/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

DACOWLEY/GETTY IMAGES ©

Old-world ambience Set on an 800-acre

estate and dating to the 1640s, Killruddery

House & Gardens (killruddery.com) has one

of the oldest and last-remaining Dutch-style

gardens in Ireland and Britain. The estate is

home to the Earl and Countess of Meath and

has been in the Brabazon family since 1618.

You can take a tour of the house, and there’s

a working farm with a farm shop, a cafe, a tea

room, and an excellent year-round Saturday

farmers market.

‘If you walk the canals, you can look out

over the ha-ha, a sunken ditch. It meant you

didn’t need a fence so the landscape was

uninterrupted,’ says Seamus. ‘You have this

lovely Elizabethan revival house with a much

earlier garden surrounding it, and then this

grand perspective leading away from it.’

Views Another grand Wicklow stately home

is Russborough House & Parklands

(russborough.ie), where you can tour the

1740s Palladian mansion and admire its art

A Garden

Lover’s Tips

If you love giant trees, head

to Powerscourt, which

includes the tallest tree in

Ireland (a 61.5m Douglas

fir) and miles of stately

beech trees.

Killruddery has miles of

tree-lined walks and a con-

servatory filled with marble

statues gathered from

a former Earl of Meath’s

Grand Tour. The beech and

hornbeam hedges turn

russet colour in autumn

and are magical.

Mount Usher is lovely

in spring for naturalised

bulbs. Alpine squills, a

spring bulb, turn the lawns

blue in places.

Recommended by Seamus

O’Brien, head gardener,

National Botanic Gardens,

Kilmacurragh

Left Killruddery House & Gardens

Below Mount Usher gardens

collection, or explore the grounds and walking

trails, enjoying views over the lakes of Blessington

and the Wicklow Mountains.

‘What’s lovely about Russborough is the historic

landscape the house sits so comfortably in – the

huge beech trees, the views of the Blessington

Lake and the classical facade of the magnificent

manor house,’ says Seamus. ‘It is wonderful in

spring for bulbs and the secret Spring Garden is

full of wonderful rhododendrons.’

Wild flowers The original house and early gardens

at the National Botanic Gardens, Kilmacurragh

(botanicgardens.ie) date from 1697 and the

comparatively modern, wild garden was created

in the 1850s. The house is yet to be restored, but

you can walk among 150-year-old oriental spruces

or Japanese red cedars, or an ancient avenue of

yew trees.

There are free garden tours and as well as car-

pets of pink petals in spring from the Himalayan

rhododendrons, you can see Chilean myrtles with

rust-coloured barks, King Billy pines from Tasma-

nia and 30ft fuchsias from New Zealand. ‘I really

like the wildness of the garden,’ says Seamus. ‘We

don’t have closely cropped lawns, we have wild-

flower meadows with thousands of wild orchids in

summertime. It’s a wild, romantic garden.’

LEFT: EYE UBIQUITOUS/UNIVERSAL IMAGES GROUP VIA GETTY IMAGES ©

RIGHT: PAUL & PAVEENA MCKENZIE/GETTY IMAGES ©

08

The Garden of

IRELAND

FOOD | DRINK | NATURE

Wicklow’s enchanting scenery has earned it a nickname as ‘the Garden

of Ireland’, but its lush green landscape is more than just a pretty picture: some

of Ireland’s finest food is harvested from the county’s fertile hills and meadows,

and is lovingly crafted by local producers. You can sample wild berry wines, take

a distillery tour or taste wild food on a foraging walk.

How to

Getting here Hiring a car

is best as public trans-

port is limited, usually

requiring multiple bus

journeys.

When to go Spring is

the best time to see

Wicklow’s bright yellow

gorse and abundance

of wild flowers. Autumn

is best for foraging wild

mushrooms.

Scenic train ride If

you’ve lots of spare time

take the DART from

Dublin along the coast to

the pretty seaside town

of Greystones, then local

buses or taxis from there.

FOTOGRAFIE - SCHMIDT/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

ROMAN_OVERKO/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Left Powerscourt Distillery Far left

top Wild cooking demonstration Far

left bottom Seasonal berries

Nature’s pantry Take a foraging walk along quiet country

lanes with local expert Geraldine Kavanagh from Wicklow

Wild Foods (wicklowwildfoods.com) who honed her skills in

the hills surrounding her Wicklow home. Learn how to identify

and cook with truly organic, wild seasonal feasts of local

fruits, flowers, nuts and an array of mushrooms and tender

leaves. Visit in spring and Geraldine will share her recipes for

gorse-flower ice cream and wild garlic pesto.

Wild wines Irish berries are the superstars at Wicklow Way

Wines (wicklowwaywines.ie). Pamela and Brett have brought

their passion for Irish food and nature into handcrafting

award-winning wines, using the finest locally grown fruits.

Brett will guide you through the winery from pressing fruit

to processing in their production room. Afterwards, sample

strawberry, blackberry and raspberry wines with perfectly

paired Irish cheeses and chocolates.

Whiskey and history The whiskey tasting at Powerscourt

Distillery (powerscourtdistillery.com) is far from typical.

Santina Kennedy has brought her expertise and passion for

the history of Irish food to the Fercullen, Food and Folklore

tour, where Fercullen Whiskey is paired with local wild and

artisan foods (ask Santina for her wild berry cocktail reci-

pes). Fercullen was the ancient Gaelic name given to these

lands where the whiskey’s barley is now sowed. The Old Mill

House, the estate’s historic hub of farming, houses part of

the distillery.

Best Food

Experiences

Wild cooking Go wild

camping in the woods

with Tipi Adventures

(tipiadventures.ie), where

you’ll feast on wild and

local food, such as tradi-

tional, grass-fed Wicklow

lamb, cooked on an open

fire. Learning the art of

wild cooking is part of

Tipi’s bush craft courses,

hosted in a tranquil forest

by the River Avonmore.

Food festivals At the

end of June or beginning

of July, there’s Taste of

Wicklow (tasteofwicklow.

ie), the biggest foodie

event of the year. During

the October bank holiday

weekend there’s October

Feast (wicklownaturally.

ie/events). In winter, tuck

into artisan food and craft

beers at the Christmas

Market (wicklowchristmas

market.com).

DIRK HUDSON/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

09

Seaside

VENTURES

ADVENTURE | OUTDOORS | BEACH

Wicklow may be known for its mountains and fertile fields, but it’s also

blessed with a beautiful coastline of long sandy beaches, hidden coves and

sheltered harbours. Calm waters create the perfect environment for fun-filled

adventures such as diving off rocks, exploring caves by kayak or surfing and

balancing on an SUP like a pro. Seals and dolphins regularly pop up to visit.

How to

Getting here/around

Bray and Wicklow are

easily accessed by public

transport from Dublin

but you need to drive to

Brittas Bay.

When to go Summertime

means warmer weather

but also school holidays,

so it gets very busy on

the coast. If you’re not

used to swimming in cold

water, July and August

are best.

Thar she blows Peak

season for wildlife is

June to September, with

sightings of dolphins and

minke whales.

AKSRU44/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

KEITHGORDONPHOTOGRAPHY/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Sea kayaking Suitable for everyone from beginners to

seasoned paddlers, sea kayaking with Bray Adventures

(brayadventures.ie) is a great way to experience Wicklow’s

secret coves. Try a taster session in the safety of Bray Harbour

to learn the basics. If the sea is rough, classes are held in the

tranquil Dargle River by the harbour. Their expert guides can

take you on a wild coastal kayak tour beneath Bray Head,

where you’ll meet curious seals and learn about migrating

species at the nearby protected bird sanctuary.

Coasteering Cliff jumping, caving and sea swimming your

way around some of Wicklow’s coastal hidden gems is a

guaranteed adrenaline rush. Bray Adventures are the only

coasteering operators in Dublin and Wicklow – they know the

best spots.

Surf’s up One of the finest Blue Flag beaches in the country is

Brittas Bay, a 5km golden stretch suitable for both swim-

mers and surfers. Beginners can learn with Brittas Bay Surf

School (brittasbaysurfschool.com) and more experienced

surfers take on the offshore waves solo with two-hour surf

rentals. The school’s kids camps are great fun, with beach

games and gentle waves to learn on.

Boat trips Head out to sea on an angling adventure with

Wicklow Boat Charters (wicklowboatcharters.ie). Common

catches include smooth hound, pollock, dog fish and mack-

erel. Or just chill out on a scenic boat trip to take in historic

sights and marine life.

Left Sea kayaking, Bray Far left top

Brittas Bay Far left bottom Grey seal

Surfing & SUP:

Local Tips

Manager at Brittas Bay

Surf School, Hugh Arthur

(@hugharthur) has been

surfing for 30 years. One

of his favourite spots to

surf is Magheramore

Beach – a much smaller,

less well known beach

than Brittas Bay. Here,

the tides and weather

can create the perfect

combination for swells

suitable for intermediate

surfers.

Hugh recommends

the trip from Wicklow

Harbour to Wicklow

Lighthouse as one of the

county’s finest SUP ex-

periences. There’s strong

tidal currents so you need

to be experienced to do it

alone. Alternatively, Hugh

leads tours along this

gorgeous stretch of coast.

NIALL CARSON/PA IMAGES VIA GETTY IMAGES ©

10

Wandering

WICKLOW

OUTDOORS | HIKING | NATURE

From climbing the highest

peak in the region, to scenic

hikes above ancient glacial

valleys, secluded woodland

strolls or coastal trails, Wicklow

is a walker’s paradise. Its close

proximity to Dublin makes it

easily accessible even on a day

trip.

How to

Getting here Hiring a

car is the best option.

Most trailheads are

not serviced by public

transport, but there is a

service to Glendalough

Valley (glendalough

bus.com).

When to go Summer

days are ideal, but be

prepared for busy trails.

Spring and autumn

are quieter and bring

bursts of colour.

What to pack Some-

times it’s four seasons

in one day – pack

layers, rain gear and

sturdy walking boots.

Wilderness & Waterfalls

The 20km-long Glenmalure Valley is wonder-

fully wild and remote, and it’s easy to see how

Irish rebels used the rugged terrain to hold off

English troops for centuries. A rebel memorial

and the remains of historic lead mines are

within walking distance of Baravore Carpark.

From here, there’s a short (3km) but steep trail

through Baravore Forest to Fraughan Rock

Glen and waterfall, an enchanting place with

a fairy-tale setting and incredible shades of

green. Keep an eye out for feral goats, descen-

dants of the lead mines’ herd.

Take the short Miner’s Path from Ballina-

funshogue Waterfall for sweeping views

across the valley and cascading Carroways-

tick Waterfall (spot the whitewashed stone

cottage at its base, once a rebel safe house).

This steep trail joins the Wicklow Way, one of

Lofty Peak

Leinster’s highest mountain,

Lugnaquilla (925m), is a

strenuous but rewarding

climb (five to eight hours).

The weather is changeable,

so only experienced hikers

should attempt it solo. If hiring

a local guide, make sure they

have the accredited Mountain

Leader Qualification.

Recommended by Russell

Mills, guide at Mountaintrails

@mnttrailsie

Left Lugnaquilla Above left Glendalough

Valley (p94) Above right Lough Tay (p94)

ANNA GORIN/GETTY IMAGES ©

RR PHOTO/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

KRZYSZTOF SKALNY/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Europe’s best multiday hikes. From here it’s

14km to Glendalough, one of the easier (and

most scenic) sections of the Wicklow Way.

Hiking gear essential.

Bird’s-Eye Views

The colour-coded routes in Glendalough Val-

ley are easy to follow. The Spinc ridge, a 3½-

hour strenuous, uphill hike, is busy but worth it

for its dramatic viewing point 500m above the

lakes. Keep an eye out for herds of sika deer.

One of the most accessible summits is

Djouce Mountain (725m). Park at JB Malone

Memorial car park. After a short (300m)

steep climb to the memorial for views of

Lough Tay, the summit is 8km further, mostly

along a boardwalk. The panorama spans 360

degrees. Boots and warm layers are essential.

Secret Valleys

Some lesser known but no less beautiful trails

are to be found in Wicklow’s secluded valleys

Post-Hike

Therapy

From September to April, in

a meadow opposite Glen-

malure Lodge (good for

fireside pints and delicious

food), there’s an outdoor

wood-fired sauna on the

banks of the River Avonbeg

for walkers to soothe their

tired bodies after a long

day’s hike. After sweating

in the Bosca Beatha

(boscabeatha.ie), experi-

ence total connection with

nature by dipping into the

cool, clear plunge pool

that’s fed by the river. For

an extra stretch of those

muscles, take a yoga class

inside Bosca Beatha’s Yurt

Space with energy practi-

tioner Shirley Fitzpatrick.

It’s advisable to book both

online in advance.

Left Clara Vale Nature Reserve Below

Wicklow Head Lighthouse

filled with ancient woodland and host to an abun-

dance of wildlife. Devil’s Glen has an enchanting

woodland trail (4km) that follows the words of

the poet Seamus Heaney and has sculptures by

world-renowned artists. Follow the Waterfall Walk

(5km) to the powerful Devil’s Glen Waterfall.

Riverside hikes The Avonmore Way (An Abhainn

Mhór is Irish for ‘big river’) is a 12km hike that

traverses Clara Vale Nature Reserve. At the

reserve entrance, around 200m north of the

stone-arched Clara Vale Bridge, there’s also a

couple of easy looped walks ranging from 2km

to 9.5km, colour-coded for easy navigation. The

reserve includes some of Ireland’s few remaining

oak stands. Pack a picnic for a tranquil rest beside

the slow-moving Avonmore, where hot tired feet

can be dipped into the cool clear waters.

Coastal trails A short train ride from Dublin, the

7km Bray to Greystones Cliff Walk is perfect for

a sunny day trip with sea views and delicious food

– try the Happy Pear (p96) in Greystones. Sections

of the walk may close occasionally due to coastal

erosion, so be sure to follow detour signposts.

The more rugged Glen Beach Cliff Walk (4km)

from south of Wicklow Town to historic Wicklow

Head Lighthouse, takes in secret coves and a

seal colony. Sometimes it’s also possible to spot

dolphins. Proper footwear is essential as the trail

can get mucky.

LEFT: DESIGN PICS / THE IRISH IMAGE COLLECTION/GETTY IMAGES ©

RIGHT: ALAN_KINSELLA/GETTY IMAGES ©

Listings

BEST OF THE REST

Fresh-Air Attractions

Wicklow Mountains National Park

Explore a walking trail, climb a mountain, see

wildlife, stroll around a lake or take a scenic

drive in this beautiful national park.

Glendalough Monastic Settlement

This peaceful settlement at Glendalough

dates back to the 6th century and includes a

round tower and the ruins of a cathedral and

stone churches, plus old gravestones.

Sally Gap

Drive the R115, known as the Old Military Rd,

to pass Sally Gap. You’ll traverse some of the

wildest, most scenic landscape in the county.

Greenan Maze

Get lost in a 7ft-high maze covering half an

acre, or try the solstice maze for a more med-

itative experience. There’s also a farm, farm

museum and fairy-tree walk.

Active Adventures

Wicklow Way

Take six or seven days to walk this 129km route

from Marlay Park in South County Dublin to

Clonegal in County Carlow, passing through

some of Wicklow’s most spectacular scenery.

Ballinastoe Mountain Bike Trail

The forest here, just north of Roundwood, has

14km of demanding MTB trails, some which

come out at spectacular views over Lough Tay.

Brennanstown Riding School

Take a horse-riding lesson, or try a scenic

cross-country trek from Brennanstown

through some of the County Wicklow country-

side on a half- or full-day excursion.

Tour Around

Day Trips

There are lots of tour companies that will

bring you on a day trip by bus to Glendalough,

Avoca village and through the Wicklow Moun-

tains from Dublin city centre, usually leaving

from Dublin city’s O’Connell St.

Wicklow Gaol

You might meet some interesting characters

when exploring the Gaol – take the Gates of

Hell virtual reality tour or a night tour if you

are brave enough.

Animal Encounters

Glenroe Farm

Have fun with rabbits and guinea pigs in the

pet farm, learn about the bigger farm animals,

take a nature walk or try the maze.

K2 Alpacas

Take a walk with a friendly alpaca in New-

townmountkennedy. As you learn about these

curious animals, you’ll hear them humming to

each other.

Sealife

Get up close and personal with some friendly

rays, find out how sharks start life in special

pouches, gawp at clownfish and more in this

great aquarium on Bray’s seafront.

Tasty Treats

Happy Pear €

Get a dose of positivity at this wholefood cafe

and shop in Greystones, set up by twins Dave

and Steve, who are passionate about plant-

based food.

Firehouse Bakery €

This artisan bakery in Delgany turns out all

types of fresh bread and pastries from its

wood stove every morning – try the ice cream

during summer season.

Platform Pizza Bar €

Tuck into a slow-roast pulled-pork pizza or a

vegan special on a spelt base, and sip a Bray

Bré cocktail in this popular spot in Bray town.

Burrito Box €

Sizzling burritos, nachos and sweet potato

fries are conjured up and served from this

food truck at the Boatyard in Greystones.

Country Cooking

Hunter’s Hotel €€€

This old-style family-run hotel in Rathnew is

open for breakfast, lunch, dinner and after-

noon tea – enjoy a stroll in the gardens.

Strawberry Tree €€€

Have a fully organic meal at Brooklodge

hotel’s restaurant in Macreddin Village, with

lots sourced or foraged locally – peek into its

pantry, which is a treasure trove of wild foods.

Ballyknocken Cookery School €€€

Learn to make your own dish in the setting of

this country house, run by TV chef Catherine

Fulvio, using ingredients from the garden.

Poppies €

Gorgeous home-style country cooking in

Enniskerry village. Pop in for tea and cakes, a

light lunch or a filling quiche or pie.

Irish Gifts & Local Treasures

Avoca

Browse for Irish gifts and homewares such as

luxury throws, candles, cookbooks and crafts.

The Kilmacanogue emporium also has a food

market, cafe and the Fern House restaurant.

Greenan Maze

Fishers

This family-run shop in Newtownmount-

kennedy is the place to stock up on country

casual clothing. You will also find Irish gifts

and there’s also a shop selling local produce.

Tinahely Farm Shop

There’s lots to do here. Have a look around the

food and gift shop – there’s also a restaurant,

farm animals and a children’s activity barn.

Boat Yard Gallery

Pick some local art and photography in this

gallery, set in the small Boat Yard courtyard

near Greystones Harbour.

Craft Tipples

Wicklow Wolf

Look out for IPAs and the smokey bacon-

flavoured Ranchero Rauchbier from this

Wicklow craft brewery, served in many of the

county’s pubs and off-licences.

Glendalough Distillery

Seasonal botanical gins made from wild in-

gredients foraged from Wicklow’s forests. This

distillery also produces whiskey aged in casks

made from sustainably sourced, local oak.

Scan for things to see, do

and try in Wicklow

PETER KROCKA/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

THE

SOUTHEAST

BEACHES | ADVENTURE | SPORTS

Saltee Islands

► Wexford Beach Life

(p104)

► When Spielberg

Stormed Curraclose

(p108)

► Family Thrilles in

Kilkenny (p110)

► The Game of Hurling

(p112)

► Copper Coast &

Mahon Falls (p116)

► Breathtaking

Waterford (p118)

► Listings (p120)

Jakub Wojciechowski/shutterstock ©

THE

SOUTHEAST

Trip Builder

Sandy adventures, city festivals and fun-filled family

days await in the Southeast. Catch a hurling match or soak

up medieval history in Kilkenny, explore Waterford’s glorious

Unesco geopark, then hit the beaches in Wexford.

Catch a hurling match in

Kilkenny city, home of the

Cats (p112)

½ day

See what’s in bloom or rent

the historic Lismore Castle

(p120)

1-2 days

Explore geographical wonders

at the Unesco Copper Coast

Geopark (p116)

1 day

Ride the zipline and

take a treetop walk at

Castlecomer Discovery

Park (p111)

1 day

Climb the cliffs then

go for a swim at

Ballymoney Beach

(p105)

1 day

Discover why Curracloe

Beach was so important to

Steven Spielberg (p108)

½ day

Hike over golden

sand dunes on the

Furlongs Road Loop

(p106)

½ day

Experience the

southern sunset by

kayak around Hook

Head (p107)

½ day

Sail to the rugged Saltee

Islands (p107)

1 day

VEEJEY/SHUTTERSTOCK ©,

ROSS MAHON/SHUTTERSTOCK ©,

EDUARDO FONSECA ARRAES/GETTY IMAGES ©,

ANDREA PISTOLESI/GETTY IMAGES ©

Practicalities

ARRIVING

Kilkenny MacDonagh Train Station Direct

connections to Waterford; buses park outside.

Wexford O’Hanrahan Railway Station Direct

routes from Dublin, with a stop for Rosslare

Strand beach.

Waterford Plunkett Train Station Five-minute

walk to city centre.

HOW MUCH

FOR A

99 ice cream

€2

Hurling match

ticket €35

Pint of Smith-

wicks €4.50

WHEN TO GO

JAN - MAR

Cool, fresh weather. Ideal for city

breaks and inland exploring.

APR - JUN

Warmer days. Beach and tourist

season building up.

JUL - SEP

Mostly warm weather. Busy

coast in July.

OCT - DEC

Expect colder, wetter days.

Snuggle up by the fire.

GETTING AROUND

Car The most convenient way to

get around, and a popular way to

explore the Southeast coast while

beach-hopping.

Train Connections from Dublin to

Kilkenny city, Waterford city and

Wexford towns. Bear in mind that

there’s only one Waterford stop,

so you may need to get a bus or a

taxi to more remote areas.

SURA ARK/MOMENT MOBILE/GETTY IMAGES ©

EATING & DRINKING

Jackford Potato Gin Delightful, earthy potato-based spirit from

Enniscorthy.

Blaa Special, doughy, white Waterford bread. Protected Geographical

Indication status by the European Commission. Try in Barron’s Bakery,

Cappoquin.

Must-try black pudding

Anocht (p121) in Kilkenny

specialises in modern Irish

cuisine and serves an excellent

black pudding terrine.

Best ice cream

99s and whipped sundaes at

Henry’s in Campile (p105).

CONNECT & FIND YOUR WAY

Wi-fi Wi-fi and 4G phone coverage

is generally good across Kilkenny,

Wexford and Waterford. Connec-

tivity is set to further improve

when a new high-speed fibre

broadband network is rolled out

to rural locations.

Navigation Maps, guides and

traveller information are available

in tourism offices in Kilkenny,

Waterford and Wexford towns.

FOOD THE WATERFORD WAY

Find the location of local food

producers, restaurants, food

stores and farmers markets on

the Food the Waterford Way map

(foodthewaterfordway.com).

WHERE TO STAY

Place

Pro/Con

Waterford City

Hotels and guesthouses on the river. Tourist

hotspot, book early.

Kilkenny City

Hostels to luxury hotels. Hen party capital of

Ireland; noisy.

Rosslare

Beachside, best for families & walkers. Popu-

lar, but limited accommodation.

Nire Valley

Eco-camping and glamping. Public transport

limited.

MONEY

Cash and cards are both widely accepted in towns

and cities. Bring cash for ice creams by the beach.

TOP: RICHLEGG/GETTY IMAGES ©

BOTTOM: PABLO STRONG/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

11

Wexford Beach

LIFE

FAMILY | ADVENTURE | COAST

Famous for its superb

beaches, Wexford is worthy of

time spent acquainting yourself

with its coastline. The area has

some of the cleanest strands in all

of Ireland – perfect for family days

out and some R&R.

Sandy days out Visit Kilgorman Strand and

soak in the 2.5km full length of the beach,

which includes the soft sands of Clone

Strand. There is no carpark here, so locals

tend to park along the road to access it. The

beach is wide with plenty of space for families

to lounge and swim in the ocean.

Go swimming at Ballymoney Beach. This

popular, safe, bathing spot has lifeguards

during peak season (July to August) as well as

access to public toilets. If visiting in summer,

head down early to nab a parking spot.

Further south, the unspoilt Duncannon

Beach (just outside the village) is a joy on

a warm day. There’s parking at the water’s

edge or you can drive onto the golden sand.

The beach has great views of Hook Head and

hosts an annual Sand Sculpting Festival (early

August).

How to

Getting here Travel to

Wexford from Dublin

by car (less than two

hours) for easy beach

access, or take the

train direct to Rosslare

Strand.

When to go Wexford

is called the ’Sunny

Southeast’ for a reason:

it has many sunshine

hours throughout the

year. May/June is ideal

for sunbathing on the

beaches.

Best dunes Visit

Ballyteige Burrow to

see one of the best

sand dune systems in

Ireland.

Cool as Ice

Wexford’s coastal vibes go

hand in hand with ice-cream

blowouts. Locals love the

99s and whipped sundaes

from Henry’s in Campile,

or try locally made Scúp

gelato from Bella Napoli in

Kilmuckridge. If you’re taking

a stroll on Rosslare Strand,

nab a delicious tub or cone at

Izmoo Gelato.

Left Ballymoney Beach Above left

Morriscastle Beach (p106) Above right

Hook Lighthouse

4H4 PHOTOGRAPHY/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

PETER KROCKA/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

VEEJEY/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Known as the ‘Golden Mile’, the glorious

Morriscastle Beach in Kilmuckridge is also

lifeguarded during peak season. Morriscastle

is a clean, family-friendly beach bordered by

dunes that provide welcome shelter from the

breeze.

Active adventures Pull on a wetsuit and

take to the water on a stand-up paddleboard

(SUP) or try a kitesurfing lesson with Hooked

Kite Surfing (hookedkitesurfing.ie). The

company’s base, Duncannon Beach, hosts

Wexford’s annual Hooked Kitefest each

August.

Take a hike Wexford’s great walks include the

4.5km Furlongs Road Loop, where you can

take pathways along the beach or through

the dunes. The higher dunes have incredible

views of the entire area, including Ballyteige

Castle and Forth Mountain.

Wexford from the Water

For one of the best coastal experiences

Best Family

Experiences

Curracloe Strand Take

surf lessons at Surf Shack

or hike and bike the

walking trail at Ravenwood

through the forest to the

beach.

Duncannon Beach Shal-

low water and lifeguards

mean a safe swim. For

younger children there’s a

great playground just off

the beach in the dunes.

Ballymoney Beach

Explore the rockpools

between the two beaches

and climb the cliffs for

amazing views – you can

see all the way to Wales on

a clear day.

Carne Beach Go horse

riding on the beach with

Hazelwood Stables.

Recommended by Sinéad

Fox, mum and blogger at

BumblesofRice.com

@bumblesofrice

Wexford has to offer, head to Fethard-on-Sea

village and join a sunset kayaking tour with

The Irish Experience (theirishexperience.

com). You’ll be accompanied by a local guide,

who will lead a paddle around the Hook Head

coastline to explore sea caves, arches and

glorious sea cliffs. Curious seals may join in

the fun, and if you’re really lucky you might

even spot dolphins and basking sharks while

pottering about this impressive habitat. After-

wards, you’ll be plied with hot chocolate while

bobbing on the water, with a front-row seat to

see the sun sink beneath the horizon. You’ll

need at least three hours for the evening out.

Sailing Great Saltee Take a family sailing

trip with Saltee Ferry (salteeferry.com). Just

5km from Kilmore Quay, the islands are home

to an array of birds such as guillemots and

razorbills. Colourful puffins arrive in April

and stay until mid-August. Plan a trip in early

summer to enjoy a sea of bluebells.

If you prefer to keep your feet on terra fir-

ma, The Irish Experience also runs self-guided

cycle tours and hiking experiences around

Wexford. For something more adventurous,

there’s also coastal canyoneering.

Left Carne Beach Right Puffin,

Saltee Islands

LEFT: KSTUART/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

RIGHT: PAUL MAXWELL 23PHOTOGRAPHY/GETTY IMAGES ©

When

Spielberg

Stormed

Curracloe

AN EXTRA’S INSIGHT

TO THE HOLLYWOOD

BLOCKBUSTER

In the summer of

1997, a sandy strand

in County Wexford

was transformed into

Normandy’s Omaha

Beach and featured

in what is perhaps

one of the greatest

opening scenes of

any WWII movie.

A massive success,

Saving Private Ryan

brought in £4 million

to the Wexford

economy and left a

lasting legacy.

When Steven Spielberg chose Curracloe Strand for the

D-Day scenes in his wartime epic Saving Private Ryan, it

may have been a surprising choice to many, but locals

knew the value of this stretch of sand. Running for 11km,

the beach is popular with locals for bracing walks, but

for Spielberg its size meant ample room to play out the

large-scale, tense D-Day landings of 1944. The scenes

shot on Curracloe Strand replay the fateful attack by US

infantry, who landed at Normandy’s Omaha Beach in their

thousands in an effort to quash German artillery on the

beach heights, creating a giant killing zone.

More than 1000 extras were used on Curracloe. Tipper-

ary-man Mick Delahunty, a former member of the FCA (An

Fórsa Cosanta Áitiúil; now the Reserve Defence Forces),

was one of them, and remembers it well. He spent 4½

weeks on set in one of the core army groups, working clos-

est with the main cast. Spielberg’s team approached the

Irish army to recruit extras because of their experience

of conflict and their discipline, according to Mick. ‘They

wanted people who knew what to do,’ he says – capturing

the tension and bleakness of WWII was no easy feat.

For Mick’s audition, he had to swim lengths of a pool

wearing a tracksuit to see how he would cope with po-

tential conditions. Extras were bused down to the beach

each day and they also had a historian on set who told

them exactly what they were doing to simulate the D-Day

landings. Although Irish summers typically have their fair

share of cloudy days, to Spielberg’s dismay 1997 was a

sunny year. To emulate the grim reality of those war days

Left and right Scenes from the 1998

film Saving Private Ryan Middle

Curracloe Beach

CBS PHOTO ARCHIVE/GETTY IMAGES ©

in Normandy, the director was forced to resort to lighting fires

to add murkiness to the filming.

Like any Hollywood set, there was an emphasis on secrecy

and some of the extras were sent home after getting caught

with cameras. It was only on the last day of shooting that Mick

says extras were told, ‘Look, guys, we know you don’t have

cameras, but if you just happen to have one by accident…’ He

adds: ‘You’d want to see the

amount of cameras that

came out of people’s pock-

ets!’ Photographs that Mick

took that day, including one

of him with Tom Hanks, are

now proudly on display in

the Templemore Arms Hotel

in County Tipperary.

When Saving Private Ryan

hit cinemas the following

year, it grossed more than

US$481 million at the box office. It was nominated for 11

Academy Awards and won five, including one for Spielberg for

Best Director. The film’s harrowing Omaha Beach scenes are

considered one of the closest film adaptations of the real-life

experiences of the Normandy landings, and remain highly

influential.

As well as Saving Private Ryan, Mick has been an extra

on Braveheart and The Last Duel, and can now say that he’s

worked with Spielberg, Mel Gibson and Ridley Scott. ‘Not bad

for a lad that’s only an extra!’ he jokes.

Spielberg’s team

approached the Irish

army to recruit extras

because of their

experience of conflict

and their discipline

Real-Life Curracloe

This wonderful sandy beach

was chosen for its geographi-

cal similarity to Omaha Beach.

These days, it’s still a local

favourite with soft, fine white

sand that’s ideal underfoot.

A blanket of green marram

grass covers the surrounding

sand dunes and adds to the

serene atmosphere.

Curracloe Beach is well

known for being particularly

safe for bathers and has

an International Blue Flag

– awarded due to its clean-

liness. Lifeguards look after

swimmers during bathing

season (July to August).

Parking is plentiful, with

three sites to aim for: White

Gap, Ballinesker and Culle-

ton’s Gap.

IRISH DRONE PHOTOGRAPHY/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

CBS/GETTY IMAGES ©

12

Family Thrills in

KILKENNY

NATURE | ACTIVITIES | ANIMALS

Although well known for its medieval history, Kilkenny is also a county

with bountiful opportunities to be outdoors in nature. Families will love it here,

where small kids can get up close and personal with farm animals or experience

woodland romps, and kids big and small can run riot with ziplines, mountain

biking and kayaking.

How to

Getting around Having

your own transport is

advised, to ensure you

can visit the attractions

outside the city and stop

for walks, picnics and

photos.

When to go Many

outdoor activities run

year-round, but you’ll get

the best out of them from

March to September.

Top tip If your kids like

sports, they might be

fascinated by the local

obsession: hurling. Ask

about the best upcoming

matches.

MARIUS ROMAN/GETTY IMAGES ©

BOULENGER XAVIER/SHUTTERSTOCK©

Castlecomer Discovery Park

Active families will be thrilled with the adventures on offer at

Castlecomer Discovery Park (discoverypark.ie). Housed in the

former grounds of the Wandesforde Estate, the park is spread

over 80 acres of woodlands and lakes. Activities range from

Ireland’s longest zipline and treetop walks to archery, kayak-

ing, orienteering and mountain biking.

’Seeing families connect with nature, while doing physical

activity brings a smile to my face,’ explains Kathy Purcell,

general manager of the Discovery Park. ‘This is a keystone of

our philosophy.’

For the under-sevens, there is a magical elf and fairy village,

bouncing net and a woodland adventure playground housed

in the trees. Suitable for over-sevens, the treetop walk is a

140m-long walk in the trees, suspended 10m above the forest

floor. For over-12s, the zipline is more than 300m long and

crosses two lakes and a bridge. It can be booked in conjunc-

tion with the Octagon high-ropes course, which is a more

challenging version of the treetop walk. All are designed to test

your agility and give tremendous views over the woodland.

There is also the Castlecomer Craft Yard featuring artists,

ceramicists, potters and jewellers, the Coal Mining Museum

and the gastro-style family Jarrow Restaurant. Opened as

a community project in 2007, Castlecomer Discovery Park

attracts over 100,000 visitors each year and has won awards

for Community Forestry and Social Enterprises.

The park is a 20-minute drive north of Kilkenny city.

Left Castlecomer Discovery Park

Far left top Kilkenny Castle Far left

bottom Art installation, Kilkenny

Castle

For Young

Explorers

National Reptile Zoo

Learn about ecosystems

and conservation in this

fun, educational city

setting with turtles, taran-

tulas, snakes and lizards.

Shenanigans Tour of

Kilkenny This entertain-

ing city walking tour along

Ireland’s Medieval Mile

blends history with magic,

featuring witches and

knights.

Nore Valley Park In a

peaceful valley a 15-min-

ute drive from Kilkenny

City, this pet farm offers

kids the opportunity to

bottle-feed baby lambs,

hold piglets and interact

with ostriches. Camping

and glamping are also

on-site.

Woodstock Gardens

Overlooking the River

Nore and the beautiful vil-

lage of Inistioge, a 30-min-

ute drive southeast of

Kilkenny City, these

gardens make for a tran-

quil day out amid walled

gardens, an arboretum

and tree-lined avenues.

CASTLECOMER DISCOVERY PARK ©

13

The Game of

HURLING

CULTURE | SPORT | ACTIVITIES

An ancient Irish sport,

hurling is part of the fabric of

Irish society and in Kilkenny it’s

a religion. The local team are

known as the Cats and there’s

nowhere better in Ireland to catch

a match or learn about hurling

traditions.

History of Hurling

Best described as a mixture of baseball and

lacrosse, played with the intensity of ice hock-

ey but on a grass pitch, hurling is likely part of

the evolution of all of those sports.

The origin of hurling is steeped in Irish

legend. Folklore tells that when a teenage

boy called Setanta arrived late for a feast at

Chulainn’s castle, he found the gates already

closed and the feast in full flow. To keep him-

self occupied on the long hike to the castle,

he had been hitting a ball with a stick and

then chasing after it. When Setanta arrived at

the castle, Chulainn’s guard dog (or the Cú in

Irish) was already out patrolling the castle’s

perimeter and Setanta, to preserve his own

life, used his stick to shoot the guard dog with

his ball, killing the unfortunate hound.

How to

Getting there Hurling

pitches are dotted

around the county of

Kilkenny, so often a car

(or bike) is required to

catch matches.

When to go Local club

games take place from

February to November

and happen in the

evening midweek or at

the weekend.

Catch a match There

are 41 clubs and

fixtures can be found

at kilkennygaa.ie/

fixtures-results.

Catching a Live

‘Clash of the Ash‘

The success of hurling in

Kilkenny has been founded

upon club games that run

throughout the spring, sum-

mer and autumn, culminating

in local championship finals.

All the players are amateur,

despite the elevated skill

levels, so the games happen

outside of normal working

hours.

Left Hurling goal posts Above left and

above right Hurling matches

RAY MCMANUS/SPORTSFILE VIA GETTY IMAGES ©

RAY MCMANUS/SPORTSFILE VIA GETTY IMAGES ©

As punishment, Chulainn made Setanta

his new guard dog, and henceforth the boy

became known as Cú Chulainn. Through his

act of self-defence, Setanta invented hurling.

Historians argue that this legend is based on

fact and occurred in the 12th century.

In rural Ireland, there is no greater honour

than playing for your county or indeed win-

ning an All-Ireland final. While hurling is played

by men, the women’s game, called camogie, is

equally as popular and skilful. The All-Ireland

finals in hurling draw the biggest crowd of

any sporting event in Ireland, topping 82,000

spectators.

Experience Hurling

Kilkenny Way Specially designed for inter-

national visitors who are not familiar with

Ireland’s national game, the Kilkenny Way

(thekilkennyway.com) is a guided two-hour

tour that demonstrates hurling to novices like

nothing else. You’ll get the history of the game,

The Craft of

Hurl Making

Fashioned from the wood

of the ash tree (hence the

local term ‘clash of

the ash’ for hurling games),

the hurl is still handmade.

It’s both a work of art and

a sporting implement. The

stick must have a round

grip and a wide bottom,

while remaining flat-faced

and well balanced. A good

springiness is key so that

upon forceful impact the

hurl does not break or

shatter.

Watching a craftsman

fashion a hurl is a uniquely

Irish, centuries-old

tradition. A good place to

see it is at the Star Hurley

workshop (starhurley.ie) in

Jenkinstown.

stories of local legends, and training lessons where

you can learn some of the fundamental skills of

hurling. You’ll also get the chance to visit the home

of ‘the Cats’ – the Kilkenny county team – at Now-

lan Park stadium in Kilkenny city.

Founded on the hurling culture within Kilkenny,

one of Ireland’s most highly decorated counties

in terms of title wins, this is an unparalleled native

Kilkenny experience. The tour is run by ex-

players and starts from PJ Lanigan’s Bar, which

also doubles as an unofficial Hurling Museum.

The bar merits a visit on its own, to browse the

paraphernalia and images. Excellent late-night

Irish music-filled parties (nicknamed ‘hoolies’ by

locals) abound once night falls. Book in advance.

Hands-on games For a more practical approach,

book a tour through Hurling Tours Ireland

(hurlingtoursireland.ie). You’ll get a chance to

score a point on the field of dreams after learning

the history, evolution and basic skills of the world’s

fastest field game. A major focus is fantastic,

practical and enthralling on-field lessons for all the

family, provided by former club hurlers. The tour

is so infectious that some international visitors

have even gone home to join local Irish-run hurling

clubs in their native lands after taking it. A great

group activity. Book online.

Left Camogie match Far left Artisan

shapes a hurl Below Camogie sticks

D. RIBEIRO/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

LEFT: RAMSEY CARDY/SPORTSFILE VIA GETTY IMAGES ©,

RIGHT: D. RIBEIRO/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

14

Copper Coast &

MAHON FALLS

COASTAL | ACTIVE | HISTORY

Geological formations at Waterford’s Copper Coast evoke memories of the

area’s copper-mining heritage. Designated a Unesco Geopark, the coastline is home

to a spectacular Cycling Greenway and the famed Mahon Falls are an easy and

short mountain-view detour from the route. Together, they make one of the most

enjoyable trips in Ireland’s Southeast – whether travelling by car, on foot or by bike.

How to

Getting around The geopark can be travelled by car, by bike or on foot – or all

three in parts. At O’Mahony’s Pub, near Stradbally, bikes can be rented and it’s

a beautiful entry point to the Cycling Greenway.

When to go Warmer temperatures and drier days can be expected from April

to September.

Top tip The Cycling Greenway features plenty of locations for picnics and cafe

stops.

Doneraile

Walk

To escape the

hustle and bustle of

Tramore Beach on

a fine day, try the

Doneraile Walk. This

moderate hike is

generally calmer than

the beach and has

ample seating along

the way, from where

you can admire the

tremendous clifftop

views. It’s 2km one

way to Newtown

Cove.

ANDREA PISTOLESI/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

01  Navigate up the

glaciated Comeragh

Mountains past wander-

ing sheep to the 80m

cascade of Mahon Falls.

An easy, family-friendly

trail with breathtaking

views out to sea from the

summit.

02  From O’Mahony’s Pub, join

the 46km Cycling Greenway

– a disused railway track

that’s now a blissful ride

through a tunnel and over an

ancient stone viaduct.

03  Stunning Annestown

Beach is framed by rug-

ged rock formations and

sea arches. It’s popular

with bathers, as well as

talented local surfers.

04  Beautiful Newtown

Cove is a secluded spot,

ideal for swimming. At

one time, only men were

allowed to swim here.

Look for the old sign and

the painted Metalman

figure.

05  Popular Tramore

Beach stretches for

5km and offers safe

bathing, backed by

some of the highest

sand dunes in

Ireland.

ANDRZEJ BARTYZEL/SHUTTERSTOCK ©,

ANDREA PISTOLESI/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

BREATHTAKING

Waterford

01 Tramore Bay

A long beach, excellent

for swimming. A great

viewing point is the

Doneraile Walk.

02 Guillamene

Swimming Cove

Safe swimming location

with beautiful rocky

surrounds, very popular

with the locals.

03 Durrow Viaduct

Pass over this beautiful

19th-century railway

viaduct as you cycle the

Greenway.

04 Ballyvooney

Cove

When the tide is out,

look for the shipwreck

on the left and explore

the caves to find a

secret beach.

05 Reginald’s

Tower

Built in the 10th century

by the Vikings, this is

Ireland’s oldest civic

building and still in con-

tinuous use.

06 Mahon Falls

The sheep here are used

to such stunning vistas

and the glacial-age

Comeragh Mountains.

07 Newtown Cove

A special seaside picnic

spot, with clifftop tables

offering views across the

entire Tramore Bay.

08 Crough Wood

Lovely stop-off for a

deciduous forest hill

walk in the foothills of

the Comeragh Moun-

tains, on the route to

Dungarvan.

09 Bunmahon

Ogham Stones

On display in a ‘geo-

logical garden’ near

Bunmahon, ancient

Ogham stones are

inscribed with primitive

writing from around the

4th century.

10 Dunmore East

Cliff Walk

Easy 2km walk offering

seascape views – you

may get lucky and see a

passing whale.

11 Greenway Tunnel

Let out a roar and hear

it echo as you cycle

through this 400m

tunnel; a highlight of the

Greenway.

01 Marius Roman/getty images ©, 02 Cliff Green/Alamy Stock Photo ©, 03 Andrea Pistolesi/getty images ©, 04 Andrea Pistolesi/getty images ©, 05

chrisdorney/shutterstock ©, 06 Irish Drone Photography/shutterstock ©, 07 JORGE CORCUERA/shutterstock ©, 08 FIONÁN MCGRATH ©, 09 Fionán

McGrath ©, 10 MidPete/shutterstock ©, 11 Fionán McGrath ©

Listings

BEST OF THE REST

Castles, Cathedrals & Gardens

St Canice’s

Built in the 13th century, this beautifully

preserved cathedral in Kilkenny city features

wonderful stained glass and has a round

tower with fantastic views from the summit.

The Black Abbey

One of the oldest churches in Ireland, the

Black Abbey has served Kilkenny city for

centuries. A fantastic setting for a musical

concert if your timing is right.

Kilkenny Castle

This popular attraction was built after the

Norman conquest of Ireland, but then rebuilt,

extended and adapted over the centuries.

It’s surrounded by 50 acres of park with rose

gardens, woodlands and playgrounds.

Lismore Castle

A walk in the grounds of Waterford’s Lismore

Castle, which has two gardens dating back to

the 17th century, reveals glorious plants, fra-

grant flowers and a working kitchen vegetable

garden.

Irish National Heritage Park

This 40-acre park in Wexford features replica

houses and villages of Ireland’s earliest settlers.

Adrenaline Rush

Axe Junkies

A fun-filled activity for adults (aged 18 and

over) in Waterford city. Sling axes straight into

the bullseye, in a music-filled atmosphere.

Dunmore East Adventure Centre

Located right at the water’s edge where shel-

tered coves offer fantastic natural playgrounds,

this purpose-built facility has a range of water

activities as well as abseiling and archery.

Quadventure

A guaranteed day of mucky thrills and spills

on four-wheels, in the foothills of Wexford’s

Blackstairs Mountains.

The Gap Walk

A 6km round-trip walk in the wonderful

Comeragh Mountains in Waterford, through

a natural pass that has been in use for

centuries.

Suir Valley Railway

Take a unique and special 40-minute train trip

on a narrow-gauge railway dating to 1878. It’s

in Waterford and the route includes fantastic

river valley views.

Arts & Crafts

Nicholas Mosse

Potters have worked on-site at this old stone

mill, on the banks of the River Nore at Ben-

nettsbridge, since 1840. Watch the potters

work, then visit the shop and tea room.

Jerpoint Glass

In Stoneyford, visitors can watch master

glassblowers magically transform molten

liquid glass into intricate shapes.

Made in Kilkenny Craft Trail

Kilkenny has a long-standing reputation as a

hub of creativity, which is beautifully celebrated

on this craft trail featuring potters, glassblow-

ers, metalworkers and many more besides.

The Makers House

A collection of contemporary Irish art, design

and craft, all under one roof in Wexford town.

Seasonal & Farm-to-Table

Everett’s €€

Comfortable and unfussy, this Waterford

bistro offers the best of Irish seasonal ingredi-

ents, housed in a 15th-century building.

Bodega €€

A fun, multiple award-winning dining experi-

ence in Waterford, focusing on quality local

produce from the sea and the farm.

Spinnaker Bar €€

A family-friendly, nautical-themed bar and

seafood restaurant in Dunmore East, with

great atmosphere and service.

Anocht €€

Serving modern Irish and European cuisine,

Anocht is a fine-dining experience housed in

a beautiful historic room above the Kilkenny

Design Centre.

Rive Gauche Kitchen & Cocktails €€

A modern take on traditional elegance, this

chic and sophisticated destination in Kilkenny

city centre allows the food to take centre stage.

Barrow’s Keep €€€

Dedicated to local producers, this farm-to-

table restaurant in Thomastown has a marvel-

lous weekly changing menu.

Silver Fox Seafood Restaurant €€€

This Irish and seafood restaurant in Kilmore

Quay, Wexford, is famous for fresh and locally

caught seafood.

Fine Dining

Restaurant Lady Anne €€€

An elegant and intimate Georgian dining room

in the restored Creamery House at Castle-

comer. Lady Anne uses local produce and

offers a fantastic tasting menu.

Tannery Restaurant €€€

One of Waterford’s best restaurants, in Dun-

garvan, with creative, delicious and attractive-

ly presented dishes.

Ristorante Rinuccini €€€

This family-owned, awarding-winning restau-

rant has been at the centre of Kilkenny for

over 30 years, offering classic Italian fare.

Beaches Restaurant €€€

Situated in Kelly’s Hotel Rosslare, this

award-winning restaurant has a renowned

wine list to accompany the daily changing

seasonal menu.

Cheap Eats

Vee Bistro €

A relaxed and contemporary bistro in the cen-

tre of Tramore, offering Irish and European fare.

Cathedral Café €

Soups, snacks, drinks and desserts are avail-

able at this quaint cafe housed in St Mary’s

Cathedral, Kilkenny.

Ohana Café €

Just north of Wexford town in Fahey’s Cross,

this cafe features budget-friendly tasty treats.

Great for lunch.

The Yard Café €

Situated in the heart of Kilkenny city, the Yard

Café has access to a lot of outdoor seating

and is a great spot to watch the world go by.

The Olive Café €

A great place for a traditional Irish breakfast in

Waterford city.

CORK

CULTURE | HISTORY | COAST

Experience

Cork

online

Mizen Head

► The Culinary Capital

(p128)

► The Wonderful Wild

West (p130)

► Castles & Stately

Homes (p134)

► Islands & Beaches

(p138)

► Stroll Through Cork

City (p142)

► Charting the English

Market (p144)

► Listings (p146)

MONICAMI/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

CORK

Trip Builder

Cork is the largest county in Ireland and as the locals

will tell you, there’s nowhere quite like it. Home to an incredible

coastline, rugged natural beauty and rich, fascinating history,

‘The Rebel County’ has something for everyone.

Take the cable car to

Dursey Island and meet

the resident artists (p139)

1-2 days

Drive 70km of dramatic

coastline on the Sheep’s

Head Peninsula drive

(p133)

1-3 days

Make a splash with a

whale-watching trip in

Baltimore (p140)

½ day

Brave the bridge-crossing

at remote Mizen Head

(p133)

½ day

Explore bookable

experiences in

Cork online

Kiss the stone for the ‘gift of

the gab’ at Blarney Castle

(p135)

½ day

Explore the colourful

seaside town of Kinsale,

Ireland’s gourmet capital

(p129)

1 day

Surf the waves or explore the

dunes at Inchydoney Beach

(p141)

½ day

Tour the gardens, see

exotic wildlife or golf at

Fota Island (p137)

1 day

Enjoy the best of Cork city

on a self-guided walking tour

(p142)

1 day

Sample local produce

at Midleton Farmers

Market (p147)

½ day

OBLADATEL/SHUTTERSTOCK ©,

NIALL_MAJURY/GETTY IMAGES ©,

ALGIRDAS GELAZIUS/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Practicalities

ARRIVING

Cork Airport 10km southwest of the city. Bus 226

connects the airport, city centre, bus and train

stations hourly. Allow 20 to 35 minutes. Adult

single €2.80; cash only. Taxis cost around €25.

Car rental available, best booked in advance.

Kent Train Station Bus 205 connects the city

centre but it’s a short walk. Taxis start at €5

up to €20 for most city-centre destinations.

Cork Bus Station Located on Parnell Place in

the city centre.

WHEN TO GO

JAN - MAR

Cold, dark evenings, perfect for

the pub and Paddy’s Day parades.

APR - JUN

Warmer weather, seasonal attractions

open, Midsummer Festival.

JUL - SEP

Best weather, foodie festival

Taste of West Cork.

OCT - DEC

Guinness Cork Jazz Festival and

Kinsale Gourmet Festival time.

HOW MUCH

FOR A

Pint of Beamish

€5

Locally roasted

coffee €3.50

Potato pie

€1.80

GETTING AROUND

Bicycle Cork city is compact and

very walkable, but for a change

of pace there’s also a bike-share

system with stations at most of

the city’s tourist attractions. A

3-day subscription is available

for €3 plus a deposit of €150.

First 30 minutes free (bikeshare.

ie/cork).

Bus Hop-on, hop-off bus tours of

Cork city also offer day trips to

Jameson Distillery, Mizen Head

and the Ring of Kerry. Buses run

to most major towns in Cork

county. You usually have to go

back to Cork city to connect.

Car The absolute best way to

visit remote spots in West Cork,

which can be difficult to access on

public transport.

GABRIEL12/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

EATING & DRINKING

Breakfast Seek out Clonakilty black pudding with O’Flynn’s gourmet

sausages, washed down with a cup of Barry’s tea.

Cheese Smoked Gubbeen, Carrigaline soft cheeses, Toonsbridge

mozzarella.

Beer Forget about Guinness, in Cork a pint of ‘the black stuff’ is either

Beamish or Murphy’s.

Potato pie Wash down this local speciality from KC’s (p129) with

Tanora – a tangerine-flavoured ‘mineral’ (local slang for soda).

Must-try sandwich

O’Flynn’s ‘The Cork Boi’ (p144)

Best cheese selection

Mahon Point (p147)

CONNECT & FIND YOUR WAY

Wi-fi Available everywhere, with

free hotspots in libraries and

public parks. If you’re getting a

SIM card, Vodafone has the best

reception and has a store on Pat-

rick’s St in Cork city. Note there

are some reception black spots in

rural areas.

Navigation Google maps works

well and everywhere is signpost-

ed. Friendly locals will always give

directions.

SAVE YOUR MONEY

Look for Pre-Theatre or Early Bird

restaurant menus.

Tap water is potable and free.

Deli counters in shops like Centra

have reasonably priced food.

WHERE TO STAY

Cork, especially the city, is expensive, with hotel accommodation

averaging €120 a night. Hostels, B&Bs and Airbnbs are more affordable.

Options book up fast during high season, festivals and bank holidays.

Place

Pro/Con

Cork City

Transport hub; widest selection of accommoda-

tion, tour operators, nightlife and restaurants.

Ballincollig

Near the city, connected by 24-hour bus;

regional park with walking trails; historical

gunpowder mills.

Kinsale

Start of the Wild Atlantic Way; colourful,

historic town with great restaurants.

Clonakilty

Seaside town with beaches, friendly locals

and DeBarra’s for live music.

Skibbereen

Saturday market and historical, artistic vibes.

Close to attractions.

Bantry

Friday market and stunning bay location.

Explore Beara and Sheep’s Head Peninsulas

and Gougane Barra.

MONEY

Taxis FREE NOW, similar to Uber, offers discounted

rides (free-now.com/ie).

Leap Card A bus pass giving 30% discount on cash

fares. Works on Cork buses and in other cities. Visitor

cards available (leapcard.ie).

TOP: JOERG BEUGE/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

BOTTOM: ALEXANDROS MICHAILIDIS/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

15

The Culinary

CAPITAL

GASTRONOMY | MARKETS | DAY TRIPS

With the country’s longest coastline and fertile farmlands, Cork has long

been regarded as Ireland’s culinary capital. It’s home to a famous food market

and cookery school, and more than 75% of the country’s artisan producers are

based in West Cork. All of this combines to make Cork gloriously gastronomic,

packed with everything from casual cafes to fine-dining restaurants.

How to

Getting around Be sure

to book a table, particu-

larly for evening meals on

weekends, bank holidays

and during festivals, as

popular places can book

out fast.

Traditional delicacies

Buttered eggs, crubeens

(boiled, battered and

fried pig’s feet), drisheen

(a blood sausage similar

to black pudding) and

tripe (the lining of a

sheep or cow’s stomach).

Top tip For maximum

gluttonous comfort,

loose-fitting clothing is

advised.

JOHN ANGERSON/ALAMY STOCK PHOTO ©

EMFA1/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Cork’s Best Food Experiences

Ballymaloe House Pioneering farm-to-table, Irish country-

house cooking in the 1960s, generations of the Allen family

continue a tradition of excellence with their slow-food philoso-

phy. Opt to stay overnight or simply dine at Ballymaloe House.

Keen cooks can take a course in the award-winning cookery

school.

Skibbereen Farmers Market Every Saturday the historic

West Cork town of Skibbereen bustles with its vibrant and

colourful farmers market. The market attracts the area’s best

artisanal food and craft producers.

Secrets of seaweed For a unique sea vegetable experience,

forage for seaweed with Atlantic Sea Kayaking (atlanticsea

kayaking.com) in Skibbereen. On the ’Secrets of Seaweed’

tour, at low tide, your guide will teach you how to identify the

different types and how to pick them sustainably. You’ll also

learn about the culinary, cosmetic and medicinal uses of sea-

weed. Tip: try Carrageen Moss pudding in Cork. Can you guess

the secret ingredient?

Kinsale scene Kinsale has a long-standing reputation as Ire-

land’s gourmet town. With over 50 eateries, there’s something

for everyone. Fishy Fishy, Man Friday and The Bulman are

firm favourites, but Bastion is where you’ll find a Michelin Bib

Gourmand. For cheap eats, try Dino’s fresh fish and chips

with mushy peas. Head to Blacks of Kinsale and choose from

a unique range of craft beers and spirits to wash your meal

down.

Left The Bulman, Kinsale Far left top

Cooking at the Ballymaloe Cookery

School Far left bottom Carrageen

moss

Modern

Delicacies

Chipper Unique to Cork,

a local chip shop favourite

is the humble potato pie.

A ball of herby mashed

potato is battered and

deep-fried, with variations

including cheese and/or

onion. KC’s in Douglas (be

sure to try a filled pitta)

and Jackie Lennox’s on

Bandon Rd are among the

best chippers in the city. A

battle wages on between

locals over which is the

best.

Boutique Cork coffee

Cork coffee lovers sip on

Badger & Dodo coffee.

It’s served in city cafes;

there’s a flagship in Fer-

moy and two cafes in Cork

city, on Barrack St and

South Mall.

TYLER W. STIPP/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

16

The Wonderful

WILD WEST

OUTDOORS | ROAD TRIP | SCENERY

Remote, untouched and

inspiring, West Cork is an outdoor

lover’s dream. Visit picturesque

villages, see a 3000-year-old stone

circle and drive through dramatic

landscapes that will leave you in

awe, as you explore the jewel in

Cork’s crown.

Driving the Beara Peninsula

Many visitors to West Cork overlook the Beara

Peninsula in favour of the better-known Ring

of Kerry route. However, the Ring of Beara

scenic drive offers just as much as its neigh-

bour, if not more. It’s a chance to get off the

beaten track while navigating narrow boreens

(country lanes), giving way to livestock and

taking in some of the country’s most breath-

taking scenery, on the Beara Peninsula.

The isolated, unspoilt 128km headland

drive begins in the quaint seaside town of

Glengarriff. Head south to Adrigole, the

jumping-off point for the inland Healy Pass

drive, which ends at Lauragh Bridge in County

Kerry. Enjoy the inspiring vistas as you contin-

ue to Castletownbere, where you can explore

the ruins of Dunboy Castle nearby.

How to

Getting around Al-

though there are public

buses between towns,

driving is always the

best choice.

When to go Blue skies

and calm weather are

more likely from May to

September.

Scenic stops Keep

an eye out for lay-bys

where you can pull

over to get those wild

landscape shots.

Driving tips Drive

slowly as roads can be

narrow and watch out

for large farm vehicles

and sheep on the roads.

Taste of West Cork

Every September over 10

days, A Taste of West Cork

Food Festival celebrates the

culinary delights and home-

grown produce of the region.

With over 50 local towns

and villages and nine islands

represented, the festival is

the ultimate introduction

to local delicacies. It’s an

essential event for any foodie

(atasteofwestcork.com).

Left Inchydoney Beach (p132) Above left

Healy Pass Above right Eyeries (p132)

JEFF MAURITZEN/GETTY IMAGES ©

BOMSTOCK/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

WALTER BIBIKOW/GETTY IMAGES ©

At the peninsula’s end lies Dursey Island, a

detour accessible by cable car. On a clear day,

the stark Skellig Islands can often be seen,

and sometimes dolphins. Driving back up the

western side of the headland, stop for a swim

at Ballydonegan Beach before visiting three

picture-postcard Irish villages – Allihies, Eyeries

and Ardgroom – where many resident artists’

homes double as galleries. You can also tour

the Copper Mine Museum at Allihies, the most

westerly copper mine in Europe.

Further up the coast, you cross the border into

Kerry just after Cappacloghernane. The views

of Kenmare Bay on this stretch are magnif-

icent. Continue until you connect with the

N71. Hang a right and make your way back to

Glengarriff, crossing back into Cork via Turners

Rock Tunnel and the striking Caha Pass.

Best of the West

Beautifully untamed and unapologetically

gorgeous, Mizen Head marks the most

West Cork

Adventures

Night kayaking trips can be

arranged with Atlantic Sea

Kayaking (atlanticsea

kayaking.com) on Lough

Hyne, Ireland’s only salt-wa-

ter lake and the country’s

first Marine Nature Reserve.

Inchydoney Beach is

popular with surfers, offering

multiple peaks on either side

of the headland. Rentals are

available from Inchydoney

Surf School (inchydoney

surfschool.com).

Walk some of the

250km of trails on Sheep’s

Head, birdwatch along the

Seven Heads Walk in Court-

macsherry, or hike one of

six trails in Gougane Barra

Forest Park.

Kayak amid a 40-strong

colony of seals in the

calm, sheltered waters of

Adrigole harbour on a trip

with Wild Atlantic Wildlife

(wildatlanticwildlife.ie).

southwesterly point on the island of Ireland.

Crossing the bridge to the signal tower, keep an

eye out for seals in the gorge far below and look

for whales and dolphins swimming offshore.

There’s also a small visitor centre and cafe.

Hugging the rugged coastline for 70km, the

Sheep’s Head Peninsula drive is dramatic and

awe-inspiring. Completely untouched and unde-

veloped, this little remote corner of West Cork will

give you that off-the-beaten-track feeling you have

been searching for. Embrace the isolation and

enjoy the peace and quiet.

Located on the wild Beara Peninsula, the Healy

Pass takes you along winding, bending narrow

roads that snake through this mountainous land-

scape and over the Caha Mountains. Beginning at

Adrigole Bridge in Cork and ending 12km over the

road in Lauragh Bridge, County Kerry, the views

are quite simply spectacular.

A short drive from Glandore is Drombeg

Stone Circle, an archaeological treasure. This

3000-year-old site consists of 17 standing stones.

The stones form a distinct circle, measuring 9.3m

in diameter and orientated so the sun’s rays

illuminate the flat axial stone facing the entrance

on the Winter Solstice.

Left Gougane Barra Forest Park

Below Drombeg Stone Circle

LEFT: JEFF MAURITZEN/GETTY IMAGES ©

RIGHT: KLIK PHOTOGRAPHY/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

17

Castles & Stately

HOMES

CASTLES | HISTORY | GARDENS

Rural castles and coastal

homes with impeccably manicured

gardens speckle the rolling Cork

countryside. Cork Harbour, the

second-largest natural harbour in

the world, was frequently Ireland’s

first line of defence from invaders.

Impressive medieval strongholds

and fortifications stood the test of

time.

Marvellous Medieval Castles

Blackrock Castle A stone’s throw from Cork

city centre, this picture-perfect castle could

be straight out of a fairy tale. Restored as a

functional observatory, it has a popular cafe

on-site with expansive views across the Lee.

Guided tours are available along with plane-

tarium shows and interactive exhibits.

Blarney Castle Cork’s – maybe Ireland’s –

most famous castle is a must. Be sure to kiss

the Blarney Stone for the ‘gift of the gab’.

Acrophobics beware: to kiss the stone, first

you climb 127 steps to the castle top, you then

lay down, hold on to iron bars and lower your

head backwards from a ledge. An attendant

assists. Years ago, visitors were held by the

ankles and lowered head first. Queues can be

over an hour long in summer.

How to

Getting around While

Blackrock Castle is

easily accessible from

Cork city and Kinsale

is connected by bus,

car is the best way to

visit castles and stately

homes further afield.

When to go Although

the best weather is

June to August, the

gardens come to life

with colour in spring

and autumn.

Irish gifts Family-run

Blarney Woollen Mills

offers a huge selection

of Irish-made crafts,

products and souvenirs.

Cork’s 9/11

Memorial

Just outside Kinsale is the

Ringfinnan Garden of Re-

membrance, containing 343

trees – each one dedicated to

a firefighter, plus one for their

chaplain, who died on 11 Sep-

tember 2001. The garden was

established by local nurse

Kathleen Murphy, who lived

in New York for over 30 years

and is also memorialised in

the garden.

Left Blackrock Castle Above left Bantry

House & Garden (p137) Above right

Charles Fort (p136)

RICHARD SEMIK/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

MIKEMIKE10/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

BRADLEYHEBDON/GETTY IMAGES ©

Charles Fort Just outside Kinsale, Charles

Fort is a fantastically preserved star-shaped

fortress looming over the harbour. Dating

back to the 17th century, it features gun bas-

tions used to defend Ireland against Spanish

and French fleets and was still in military use

until 1922. There’s a visitor’s centre onsite

with guided tours available.

Dunlough Castle The crumbling ruins of

Dunlough Castle are on the Mizen Head

Peninsula, at a point named ‘Three Castle

Head’ because of the three towers that still

stand. One of the oldest Norman castles in

southern Ireland, it’s only accessible by foot

and is shrouded in legends and ghost stories.

There’s accommodation nearby (threecastle

head.ie).

Magnificent Houses,

Glorious Gardens

Fota Island Fota House and its magnificent

19th-century decor offer a unique insight into

Floating Garden

Hidden in the hills of Skib-

bereen’s Liss Ard Estate

is the Irish Sky Garden.

Designed by American

artist James Turrell, this

interactive art installation

takes inspiration from

Celtic, Egyptian and Mayan

archaeological concepts.

Visitors enter via a stone

archway, through a long

megalithic-like passage,

and up steps that lead

to a grass-lined crater. In

the centre is a large stone

slab where you lie back

and look up to experience

the sky framed by the rim

of the crater. Turrell says:

‘The most important thing

is that inside turns into

outside and the other way

around.’

the past. Art lovers take note, Fota House has one

of the finest collections of landscape painting

outside the National Gallery of Ireland. Fota Ar-

boretum & Gardens spans 27 acres and features

restored Victorian glasshouses. Child-friendly

activities make it a firm favourite with Cork fami-

lies. The house shares a car park (€3 all day) with

Fota Wildlife Park, so it’s convenient to visit both

on the same trip. Fota Island Resort offers luxury

accommodation and golf.

Bantry House & Garden The incredible location

of Bantry House right on Bantry Bay affords it

sweeping views of the water and Caha Mountains.

The garden features seven terraces, a fountain,

a large wisteria circle and 100 steps leading to a

woodland. The estate has rested with the same

family since the 1700s and contains original fur-

nishings and artefacts.

Doneraile Court Eighteenth-century Doneraile

Court is an outstanding example of Georgian

architecture, towering majestically over a

160-hectare landscaped parkland and wildlife

estate. Visitors can enjoy beautiful water features,

several pathways and graded walks. Keep your

eyes peeled: if you’re lucky you might spot some

of the various deer and Kerry cattle that call the

estate home.

Left Dunlough Castle

Below Blarney Castle (p135)

LEFT: STEFANO_VALERI/SHUTTERSTOCK ©, RIGHT: MIKROMAN6/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

18

Islands &

BEACHES

EXPLORATION | OUTDOORS |

WILD ATLANTIC WAY

West Cork is home to

some of the most spectacular

coastline in the country. Spend

time exploring the unique islands

scattered off the coast, go whale-

watching, or find your own slice

of paradise on one of the county’s

sensational beaches.

Island Life

Bere Island For windswept scenery, you

won’t get much better than Bere Island.

Visitors can expect sandy beaches, ring forts,

quiet coves and magnificent views of the

Slieve Miskish and Caha Mountains back on

the mainland. There is also an 1899 military

fortification to visit.

Cape Clear Precariously positioned on the

edge of the continental shelf, Cape Clear is

one of Europe’s premier whale- and dolphin-

watching locations. Venture out and explore

its natural beauty on foot, or seek out one of

the cosy pubs on the island and practice your

Irish language skills with the friendly locals,

who call their home Oileán Chléire.

How to

Getting around As

more rural parts of

West Cork can be quite

isolated, it’s wise to

top up your fuel when

you can.

When to go Check the

forecast before you

travel, as ferry and

cable car crossings

can be cancelled in bad

weather.

Camping Wild camping

is not technically legal

but it is tolerated in

places. Be respectful

and leave no trace.

There are also plenty of

campsites around the

county.

Coastal Craic

Whether you sip on a stout

with a view at O’Sullivan’s

in Crookhaven, step back in

time at Levi’s in Ballydehob

or Ma Murphy’s in Bantry,

or enjoy the music sessions

at De Barra’s in Clonakilty,

having the craic in one of

West Cork’s favourite seaside

watering holes is an absolute

necessity.

Left Cable car to Dursey Island Above

left Barleycove Beach (p141) Above right

Seals, Garnish Island (p140)

BRUNO_IL_SEGRETARIO/GETTY IMAGES ©

JOHANNES RIGG/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

PETER UNGER/GETTY IMAGES ©

Dursey Island Ireland’s only cable car

connects Dursey Island with the mainland.

Carrying a maximum of six people at a

time, the eight-minute trip transports you

250m above the ocean. The island itself is a

traffic-free offshore oasis with a raw, rugged

landscape.

Sherkin Island Known as the island of the

arts, Sherkin Island is home to a creative

community of artists, whose work is sold in

nearby Baltimore. Countless hidden coves

and beaches punctuate the coastline making

it the perfect location for any nature, wildlife

or outdoors enthusiast to explore.

Garnish Island Sheltered by Bantry Bay,

Garnish Island has an almost subtropical

climate and is home to a series of vibrant

gardens where tropical plants from all over

the world grow. Keep an eye out for seals

that are often found basking on the island’s

shores.

Beautiful

Baltimore

Baltimore is the

epicentre of West Cork’s

whale-watching scene.

Depending on the season,

you can see minke whales,

harbour porpoise, common

dolphins, humpback and fin

whales, basking sharks and

even the odd leatherback

turtle. A tour of this special

marine area makes for a

truly memorable experi-

ence; book with Baltimore

Sea Safari (baltimoresea

safari.ie) or Whale Watch

West Cork (whalewatch

westcork.com).

Standing 15.2m tall, the

cone-shaped Baltimore

Beacon is a signal tower

marking the headland at

the narrow strait between

Sherkin and the harbour.

It’s known locally as ‘Lot’s

Wife’, after a biblical figure

that solidified into a pillar

of salt. Visitors to this odd

structure are guaranteed

unbeatable coastal views.

Sun, Sea & Sand

Garrylucas Beach A short drive from Cork foodie

capital Kinsale, Garrylucas is a long inviting stretch

of sand with small dunes to the eastern end. Just

up the road is the famous Old Head Of Kinsale

headland, with tall cliffs harbouring native birds and

other wildlife, as well as a golf course, making this is

a popular beach with tourists and locals alike.

Inchydoney A popular surfing beach, Inchydoney

is an expansive Blue Flag strip that beckons

beach-goers. Explore the expansive dunes, ride

the waves or enjoy a picnic on the peaceful sands

of this Cork favourite.

The Warren Nestled away down a quiet road at

the mouth of Roscarberry River, The Warren is a

small, secluded beach that can attract big crowds

in the summer. It’s a beautiful location, listed as a

Natural Heritage Area.

Barleycove Beach Surrounded by an endless

sea of green fields on all sides, the white sands of

Barleycove Beach are instantly recognisable on

approach. This truly is one of the most breathtak-

ing beaches in the country.

Silver Strand To find your West Cork beach island

paradise, head for this stunning strand on Sherkin

Island. Away from the crowds, you can enjoy the

clear waters and sun-kissed sands of this beautiful

beach in peace and quiet.

Left Baltimore Beacon Below Sherkin

Island

LEFT: ALEX SEGRE/SHUTTERSTOCK ©, RIGHT: FLIPPYTH21/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

19

Stroll Through

CORK CITY

WALKING | HISTORY | CULTURE

Cork’s compact size makes it perfect for on-foot exploration. Learn about

the world’s largest butter market, explore University College Cork’s charming

campus and experience amazing views of the city from an old church tower with

this self-guided walking tour.

How to

Getting around The start of the walk, St Fin Barre’s Cathedral, is a 10-

minute walk from Cork city centre.

When to go Start the walk at 9.30am to catch the first cathedral tour and then

have the whole day to explore the route.

How long Set aside one to two hours for this walk (more if you want to linger

along the route); the total distance is around 5km.

Celebrate Play ‘Happy Birthday’ on the Shandon Bells if it’s your special day.

Picnic at

Fitzgerald’s Park

After University

College Cork, take

a break at every

Corkonian’s favourite

green space, Fitz-

gerald’s Park, with a

peaceful picnic along

the banks of the

Lee. Look for Daly’s

bridge (pictured

left), a pedestrian

suspension bridge at

the park’s northern

end, locally known as

’Shaky Bridge’. Walk

across and you’ll

soon see how it got

its nickname.

TRISH PUNCHKEYWORDS/GETTY IMAGES ©

01   Visit St Fin Barre’s

Cathedral and take a

look at some of the 1260

sculptures, the marble

mosaics from the Pyrenees,

spectacular stained-glass

windows and an impressive

24lb cannonball.

02   Stroll the University

College Cork (UCC) grounds,

which are immaculately

kept and house magnificent

buildings made of distinct

Cork limestone, renowned for

its light colour. The campus

dates back to 1849.

03   Ambling across

Mardyke Bridge, you are

treated to beautiful views

of the River Lee. The

peaceful tree-lined Banks

of the Lee Walkway route

follows the riverbank

taking you to North Mall.

04   Cork was once home to

the largest butter market in

the world, shipping from Cork

harbour to countries around

the globe. The Butter Muse-

um explores this important

trade.

05   St Anne’s Church is home

to the iconic Shandon Bells,

a symbol of Cork. Visitors can

enjoy 360-degree vistas from

a viewing balcony high up on

the 36.5m-tall bell tower.

DE KAM/SHUTTERSTOCK ©,

GENA_BY/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Charting

the

English

Market

FEEDING CORK FOR

OVER 200 YEARS

Trading in Cork’s city

centre since the 18th

century, the English

Market is so much

more than a place

of commerce. It has

endured famine,

fires, floods, wars,

multiple recessions

and two proposed

demolitions. The

market is a social hub

and a slice of, as the

locals say, ‘pure’ Cork.

Left Olive stand, English Market

Middle Stained-glass ceiling, English

Market Right Chocolate pralines

Development

The economic development of Cork in the 18th century

saw the reclamation of the marshes. The city’s Irish

language name, ‘Corcaigh’, meaning ‘marsh’, derives from

the fact that Cork’s main streets were once waterways

running between islands, which were reclaimed and built

over, creating the city’s present layout.

In the 1780s, inspired by the development of covered

markets in England, Cork’s corporation proposed deve-

loping a covered food market in the heart of this reclaimed

centre. Foundations were laid on Grand Parade in 1786

and the Grand Parade Meat Market opened the summer

construction was completed, in 1788.

Expansion

Taking shape gradually over the following years, fish, poul-

try and vegetable markets were soon added. But it wasn’t

until 19 December 1862 that Princes Street Market was

formalised with a roof. This was also when the ornamental

frontage, entrance and balcony area (doubling the number

of stalls) came in.

The Grand Parade entrance was officially opened on 14

July 1881. The clock came next, which still stands at the

centre of the facade, with the Cork coat of arms posi-

tioned above.

Setbacks

During the War of Independence, in 1920, British soldiers

looted and burned buildings in Cork. Fire spread from a

nearby store and the roof of the Princes Street Market was

D. RIBEIRO/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

extensively damaged. Miraculously, though, this was the only

scarring that the English Market suffered at the time.

Much greater damage was wrought in 1980, when a fire

caused by a gas explosion on 19 June ravaged the English

Market. Princes Street Market was destroyed, except for its

fountain, which escaped with minor damage. Luckily, Grand

Parade Market came through unscathed.

Modern Marketplace

Princes Street Market was

fully restored by October

1981, receiving a gold medal

from Europa Nostra in

1983 for its enhancement

of Europe’s architectural

heritage. The overall space

remains but features a

circular arrangement using

the refurbished fountain as

a focal point. The upstairs gallery includes a cafe area and new

trading space.

Alongside the usual offerings of fish, meat, fruit and veg,

foodies will delight in the array of exotic cheeses and olives,

cured meats, foreign cuisine specialists and imported herbs

and spices on offer at the deli counters in the centre of the

market. More adventurous appetites can sample traditional

Irish delicacies, such as old-school favourites of crubeens,

drisheen and tripe. The English Market is Ireland’s oldest cov-

ered market and even after more than 200 years of service, it

remains not just a gastronomic retail experience but also the

heartbeat of Cork’s city centre.

The English Market is

Ireland’s oldest covered

market and…the

heartbeat of Cork’s city

centre.

Why an

‘English’ Market?

The market was originally

established by Cork’s

Protestant corporation when

Ireland was under British rule.

In 1840, local governments

were reformed and a Catholic

majority took power in Cork.

They set up another covered

food market, St Peter’s, now

the Bodega Bar on Corn-

market Street. This became

known as the ‘Irish Market’

to differentiate it from its

older counterpart, the ‘English

Market’, which was associated

with its Protestant founders.

At the time, less well-off, work-

ing-class Corkonians shopped

in St Peter’s Market where

food prices were lower and

the English Market catered

to Cork’s wealthier, more

affluent residents.

D. RIBEIRO/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

LENA WURM/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Listings

BEST OF THE REST

Coffee Culture

Alchemy Coffee & Bookstore

Hidden away on Cork’s Barrack St, this rustic

cafe decorated with old and new books is the

perfect spot for a coffee break. There’s a choice

of brewing methods for filter-coffee lovers.

Filter Espresso & Brew Bar

On George’s Quay in the city centre, this

bright riverside coffee shop serves some of

the city’s best coffee. Choose from a variety of

brewing methods and blends while admiring

the posters and coffee gadgets.

Local Produce Champions

Paradiso €€€

On Lancaster Quay, this award-winning vege-

tarian restaurant is a Cork city institution. With

a focus on contemporary cuisine and locally

sourced, seasonal ingredients, it’s guaranteed

to satisfy even the hardiest carnivore.

Farmgate Café €€

Upstairs in the English Market, this cafe sourc-

es its ingredients directly from the vendors

below. Sample local delicacies, great coffee and

gluten-free treats while watching the hustle and

bustle. Check out ‘The Great Wall of Cork’ – a

unique collection of poems by Cork Irish and

international poets, framed and on display.

Quay Co-op €

Located on Sullivan’s Quay in the city centre,

this whole-food organic restaurant and deli

utilises local produce to create vegetarian

and vegan versions of local favourites. There’s

a great food store on-site for self-caterers,

with additional locations in Carrigaline and

Ballincollig.

Unique City Eats

Iyer’s €

For a taste of southern India in southern

Ireland, this teeny family-run vegetarian cafe

serves the best masala dosa this side of

Mysuru. Delicious desserts and coffee too.

Located on Pope’s Quay. Cash only.

Ichigo Ichie €€€

Cork’s only Michelin-star chef, Takasahi Miya-

zaki has combined Japanese technique and

Irish ingredients with mouth-watering results.

The Sheares St venue serves sushi and kaise-

ki ryori – a multi-course Japanese meal.

Miyazaki €€

For a more affordable taste of Japan, check

out chef Takasahi Miyazaki’s takeaway branch

on Evergreen St, featuring curries, noodles

and rice bowls.

Craft Beer & Spirits

Jameson Distillery Midleton

Head east to Midleton for a behind-the-

scenes glimpse at how ‘uisce beatha’, the

water of life, is made. Tour the distillery, taste

rare whiskey or immerse yourself in a full-day

whiskey academy experience.

Franciscan Well Bar & Brewery

The Fran has been brewing craft beers in

the walls of an old Franciscan monastery

in Cork since before it was trendy. Enjoy an

additive-free, vegan-friendly pint of locally

named brews like Blarney Blonde, Rebel Red

and Shandon Stout. Sip your pint in the beer

garden or enjoy a craft cocktail in the Monk

Bar, and snack on pizza.

Longueville House Distillery

Head north just outside Mallow to tour what

was Ireland’s first micro-distillery, established

in 1985 in a listed Georgian country house.

Afterwards, sample the award-winning apple

cider and apple brandy.

Kinsale Mead Company

Learn about mead, the world’s oldest alcohol-

ic drink made from honey, at this award-

winning family-run meadery. Founded in 2016,

it’s the first in Ireland in 200 years.

Day Trips

Gougane Barra

A lush forest park in Múscarí, the Cork Gael-

tacht area, spanning more than 339 acres

at the foot of the Sheehy Mountains. Within

it, there’s a lake with a tiny island housing a

picturesque church named after St Finbarr,

the patron saint of Cork.

Fun Festivals

Guinness Cork Jazz Festival

Get your dancing shoes on for this toe-tap-

ping Cork music festival. Held in venues

across the city every October bank holiday

weekend, it’s been attracting jazz fans and

musicians to the banks of the Lee since 1978.

Cork Midsummer Festival

This 16-day multidisciplinary festival held ev-

ery June features performers from all around

the world. Theatre, street performances,

dance, visual art installations and circus acts

combine to bring the city to life.

Kinsale Gourmet Festival

Foodies, prepare to feast. Running for more

than 45 years in Kinsale, this annual foodie

festival hosts Mad Hatter tea parties and

walking food tours every October.

Jameson Distillery, Midleton

Farmers Markets

Midleton Farmers Market

Established by local farmers and Darina

Allen of Ballymaloe cooking school, this lively

market is held every Saturday. It’s one of the

oldest and most varied markets in Ireland.

The Ballymaloe Cookery Stall is a favourite.

Mahon Point Farmers Market

Cork’s largest farmers market is hosted

by Mahon Point Shopping Centre every

Thursday morning, usually accompanied by

live music. Head to Gubbeen Smokehouse for

award-winning cheeses.

Bantry Farmers Market

From early morning to early afternoon every

Friday in Bantry’s Wolfe Tone Sq. As well as

food, there’s crafts here and an array of bric-

a-brac and antiques stalls. The first Friday of

every month is a traditional Fair Day.

Scan for things to see, do

and try in Cork

D. RIBEIRO/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

KERRY

HIKING | SCENIC | BEACHES

Experience

Kerry

online

Hiker, Slea Head

► Slea Head Drive

Scenery (p152)

► Walking the Camino

(p156)

► Beaches & Islands

(p158)

► Celebrations of Old

(p162)

► Dingle Views & Bar

Pews (p164)

► The Emerald Galaxy

(p168)

► Wildlife of Kerry (p170)

► The Dolphin that put

Dingle on the Map

(p172)

► Listings (p174)

DAVID MADISON/GETTY IMAGES ©

KERRY

Trip Builder

With pristine beaches, a rich history and exhilarating

driving routes, it’s no wonder Kerry is known as ‘The Kingdom’.

Discover what makes it so special and plan an unforgettable

trip including the vibrant Kerry Gaeltacht, one of Ireland’s

Irish-speaking strongholds.

Drive around gor-

geous Slea Head and

experience Gaeltacht

hospitality (p152)

1-2 days

Explore Valentia

Island and climb

Geokaun Mountain

for panoramic views

(p160)

1 day

Boat over to monastic

Skellig Michael for

Star Wars fandom

(p168)

1 day

Enjoy a refreshing

seaweed bath in

Ballybunion (p159)

½ day

Don hiking boots

and trek the

beautiful Kerry

Camino (p156)

2-3 days

Have a satisfying

pint (or two) in the

cosy pubs of Dingle

(p164)

½ day

Explore

bookable

experiences in

Kerry online

JOSE ANTONIO MACIEL/GETTY IMAGES ©,

P A THOMPSON/GETTY IMAGES ©,

STEFAN MISSING/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Practicalities

ARRIVING

Kerry Airport Car hire and taxis here. A

20-minute walk to Farranfore Station, for

trains to Tralee and Killarney.

Casement Train Station Tralee’s main

station. Bus Éireann on-site for rural

routes.

FIND YOUR WAY

Local tourist

offices in hubs

such as Killarney

and Tralee will

have guides, tips

and maps. Enquire

about other sea-

sonal offices.

MONEY

Cards are com-

monly accepted in

Kerry, but cash is

handy for parking

metres if you’re

stopping in towns.

WHERE TO STAY

Place

Pro/Con

Dingle

Popular hub in West

Kerry Gaeltacht; hiking,

beaches, rich heritage.

Tourist hotspot.

Killarney

Hotels and guesthouses

galore. Best for families

and nights out; expect

summer crowds.

Kenmare

Great base for foodies

and south Kerry explo-

ration. Public transport

access poor.

Port-

magee

Quiet seaside village with

access to famous islands.

Limited accommodation.

EATING & DRINKING

Dingle Gin ice cream Not to be missed at Murphy’s

ice-cream parlour (murphysicecream.ie).

Micilín Muc black pudding Award-winning producer

of traditional blood puddings. Found in shops across

Kerry.

Cromane mussels Super meaty shellfish from the

pure waters of Castlemaine Harbour.

Must-try tapas

Sol y Sombra (p174)

Best for whiskey & music

Dick Mack’s live music

nights (p167)

GETTING

AROUND

Car Driving is the

best way to reach

Kerry’s more

remote locations

and rural villages.

Train The main

towns of Kerry,

such as Killarney,

are connected

by rail.

Tour bus A pop-

ular option with

groups, particular-

ly around the Ring

of Kerry.

JAN - MAR

Brisk. Perfect for active days out

to warm up.

APR - JUN

Brighter, warmer days. Popular

touring season.

JUL - SEP

Warm to hot, with settled beach

weather.

OCT - DEC

Cold and often wet. Ideal for

retreats by the fire.

TOP: 4KCLIPS/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

BOTTOM: MISS PEARL/GETTY IMAGES ©

20

Slea Head Drive

SCENERY

TOURING | COASTLINE | DAY TRIP

Spend the day traversing

one of the most spectacular

driving routes in Ireland. This

circular tour takes you along

clifftop roads and through the

heart of the West Kerry Irish

speaking region, Corca Dhuibhne,

with the thundering Atlantic

Ocean by your side.

Incredible Views

Around the southern end of the drive is a

large white crucifix with some exceptional

views of the Atlantic. In summer this is one

of the most congested parts of the route; an

alternative lookout spot is Dunmore Head,

where a short hike offers views of the Blasket

Islands sitting proudly in the ocean.

Framed by cliffs, pause to admire the dra-

matic top-down view of the winding stone pier

at Dunquin before descending to catch the

ferry to Great Blasket Island. This picture-

perfect place has made many a postcard –

just don’t drive down to it or you may end up

stuck. While there is no car park, you can park

along the roadside and walk down the winding

routeway.

How to

Getting around The

best way to experience

this route is by car, but

people also hike and cy-

cle it. Rent from Dingle

Bikes (dinglebikes.com).

When to go Although

open year-round,

summer is best to enjoy

a splash in the sea.

Top tips Start in Dingle

and travel the Slea

Head Drive clockwise.

This is the recommend-

ed route as you will be

able to avoid meeting

larger tour buses

head-on.

The Gaeltacht

Experience

Corca Dhuibhne (Dingle

Peninsula) is West Kerry’s

Irish-speaking region and

locals will appreciate it if you

make an effort to understand

how the communities use the

language in their everyday

lives. Learn a few words or

phrases and consider taking

Dublin City University’s free

Irish courses online. See

futurelearn.com/partners/

dcu.

Left Dunquin Above left View between

Slea Head and Dunmore Head Above right

Great Blasket Island

MICHAEL THALER/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

NOEL O NEILL-LENS ALIVE/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

DAWID K PHOTOGRAPHY/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Clogher Beach has an even better view of the

impressive ’Sleeping Giant’, as Great Blasket

Island is colloquially known, laying at peace in

the ocean.

Historical Sites

West Kerry is steeped in history and there

are countless sites along the Slea Head

Drive. A good place to get an intimate look

at the history and culture of the Gaeltacht

is at Músaem Chorca Dhuibhne in Baile an

Fheirtéaraigh (Ballyferriter). Other places

of note are Cashel Murphy, an early Celtic

settlement overlooking Dingle Bay, and Eask

Tower, a striking solid stone building, which

was built in 1847 to guide the ships into the

harbour.

One of the most important historical sites

on this driving route is Cill Mhaoilcéadair

(Kilmalkeder), where a certain stillness lingers

over the grass-lined pebbles. This early Me-

dieval Christian site is just 8km from Dingle,

Baile na nGall’s

Best Experiences

An exhilarating dip At high

tide, jump off the second

slip into the pristine Atlantic

with Mt Brandon and

Cruach Mhárthainn as your

backdrop.

Unspoilt vistas Views

of the Three Sisters are

picture-perfect at dusk, as

the sun dips behind Binn

Dhiarmada.

Traditional racing The

Regatta usually takes place

on early June weekends.

Locals compete in a

traditional boat called a

naomhóg.

A creamy pint Relax at

Tigh Bheaglaoich. Enjoy

fresh fish and chips over-

looking Tráigh an Chléirigh.

The ocean spray will meet

your lips.

Recommended by Sláine

Ní Chathalláin, broadcaster

with RTÉ Raidió na Gaeltach-

ta @SlaineNi

yet rarely crowded. Estimated to have been built

in the 7th century, the existing remains are spread

over 10 acres. Highlights include a 1.2m-high Latin

alphabet stone and bullán stones (used to collect

water). A T-shaped cross – or tau – has been

described by the Office of Public Works (OPW) as

a sundial. However, some historians think it was

more likely a ’scratch dial’, used to indicate the

times of religious service.

At the back wall of the Romanesque church, vis-

itors can attempt to go through Cró na Snáthaide

(eye of the needle). If you can make it to the other

side, it’s said to be a sure sign that you will get into

heaven. From the graveyard, there are breathtak-

ing views of Smerwick Harbour and beyond.

Scenic Food Stops

The Stonehouse Café & Restaurant, just a

10-minute spin west from Ventry, is a favourite

for those on the Slea Head Drive and has outdoor

dining that looks across to Valentia Island on the

Iveragh Peninsula. The ocean views are comple-

mented by the restaurant’s speciality: seafood.

Further northwest, the popular Caifé na Trá

near Coumeenole beach also has outdoor space

and views of Great Blasket Island. Tuck into soup

and toasties – best enjoyed with freshly ground

coffee.

Left Baile na nGall pier Below

Stonehouse Café & Restaurant

LEFT: UNA MINH KAVANAGH/SHUTTERSTOCK ©, RIGHT: WOZZIE/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

21

Walking the

CAMINO

HISTORY | HIKING | BEACHES

Follow in the footsteps of St Brendan, traversing open mountainsides,

through woodland and over river crossings. Stacks of cut turf dot the landscape

along the path, which traces small roads and country trails from Tralee to Dingle.

All you need is three days.

How to

Getting around A day’s walk can take five to seven hours. Discuss bag

transfers and the return trip to Tralee with kerrycamino.com, or get the local

Bus Éireann back to Tralee from The Tracks in Dingle.

When to go Try autumn, or join the annual group walk on the May Bank Holiday

weekend.

Top tip Visit the serene Minard Castle (pictured above) in Kilmurray, on the

edge of the water with views of the Iveragh Peninsula.

Don’t Miss

Inch Strand

Detour onto the

beach. Walkers often

pass by here around

lunchtime on the

third day of their hike.

It’s an impressive

strand of windswept

sand dunes, with

Rossbeigh Beach,

the Iveragh Peninsula

and Slieve Mish

Mountains in the

background.

Recommended by

Ingrid Boyle and Mike

O’Donnell of the Kerry

Camino committee

@TheKerryCamino

NICK FOX/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

01   Detour at Blennerville

Windmill and take the

peaceful, grassy path to

Slí na n-Éan right by the

water’s edge. It has great

views of Tralee Bay at

sunset.

02   Visit the ruined famine

village of Killelton, overgrown

with shrubbery. Its inhabit-

ants were evicted and the

area abandoned in the 19th

century; today it’s a poignant

reminder of the past.

03 Go back in time with

historical memorabilia

at The Railway Tavern

(known locally as Mike

Nail’s) in Camp and learn

about Kerry’s railroads in

this cosy, quaint pub.

04  Named after the Irish

Antarctic explorer Tom

Crean, The South Pole

Inn in Annascaul has

treasured memories from

his adventures and serves

up great food and drink.

05  See the Lispole Viaduct

(built in the 1890s) and learn

about the importance and

history of the railway line in

Kerry through information

panels in this small Gaeltacht

village.

GABRIEL12/SHUTTERSTOCK ©,

ATTILA JANDI/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

22

Beaches &

ISLANDS

BEACHES | ISLANDS | RELAXATION

Often empty with rarely a

crowd in sight, one of the greatest

things about Kerry is its beaches

with crystal-clear waters and

islands swimming in historical

significance.

Peace & Quiet

Kerry beaches are far from crowded. Walk

along the sandy Baile an Sceilg beach with

Ballinskelligs Castle in the background, or

spend the day relaxing at the secluded Kells

Bay and harbour. Wine Strand is another

remote beach tucked away in the West Kerry

Gaeltacht, or head to glorious Béal Bán; its

soft white sand makes it a family favourite.

Parking is tight so get there early.

Surfers’ Paradise

Hit the waves at Ballybunion, ease the

muscles at Collin’s Seaweed Baths, then head

to The Maharees in Castlegregory to catch a

surf break. Banna Beach, 13km from Tralee,

is another local favourite for surfers and water

sports enthusiasts.

How to

Getting around Hire

a car or bike to get the

most out of the Irish

countryside. If you’ve

more time to spare,

consider hiking too.

When to go Summer

has the best weather,

but this is exactly when

tour buses are in Kerry.

Early summer (May) is

particularly lovely.

Top tips Avoid public

holidays. If planning

to visit the Skelligs,

it’s necessary to book

months in advance.

Famous Writers

Three Great Blasket Islanders

– Tomás Ó Criomhthain,

Muiris Ó Súilleabháin and

Peig Sayers – rose to fame

through their books, which

gave a true insight into island

life and the harsh realities

of living in such isolated

conditions. Visit the Blasket

Centre (blasket.ie) for more

information.

Left Wine Strand Above left Banna Beach

Above right Great Blasket Island (p160)

GABRIEL12/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

NOEL O NEILL - LENS ALIVE/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

COLM K/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Enchanting Islands

Take the ferry from Dunquin pier and spend

the day on Great Blasket Island. Go back in

time and see the islanders’ former homes and

relax on the beach. The local colony of seals

love sprawling on the sand.

While Skellig Michael (p168) gets more

favourable attention from tourists and movie

fans, Little Skellig is fascinating too. The

smaller of the famous pair, this island’s aston-

ishing bird haven is home to one of the largest

colonies of gannets in the world.

Away from the coast, take a boat trip to

Innisfallen Island in Lough Leane, starting

from Ross Castle in Killarney. Innisfallen is the

lake’s largest island and contains the remains

of an Augustinian priory as well as a small

Romanesque church.

Chilled Beach Vibes

Unwind and make a splash in the ocean at Der-

rynane Beach off the Ring of Kerry. This clean

Valentia Island’s

Top Experiences

Skellig views Climb Bray

Head and take the Loop

Walk accompanied by local

sheep. At the summit is a

historic Martello Tower.

Historical Knightstown

Famous for its King Scallop

Festival in the summer,

buildings here echo British

design.

Picturesque lighthouse

Picnic by the 17th-century

lighthouse at Cromwell

Point with the sound of

crashing waves.

Geokaun Mountain Take

the challenging climb to

Valentia’s highest point for

unbeatable views.

Gorgeous grotto Visit

the Virgin Mary and St

Bernadette statues in

the Valentia Slate Quarry,

complete with waterfall.

Recommended by Séaghan

Ó Súilleabháin, Kerryman

and TikToker at Kerry

Cowboy @Suilleabhanach

stretch of sand with rocky outcrops is much

loved by locals in Caherdaniel. Derrynane has

a natural harbour and is seldom busy. Walkers

and swimmers embrace these Atlantic shores

and families will love relaxing on the beach and

exploring the rock pools. Lifeguards are on duty

during the bathing season (June to August).

The inviting crystal-clear waters of Der-

rynane and fine soft sand are heavenly for

those looking for a chilled day out. Top it off

with pub grub and a fresh pint at Keating’s

Bar at the harbour. If you’re lucky enough to

time your visit with one of their evenings of

music and song, you’re in for a treat.

If the beach isn’t enough for you, pass

over a nearby sandy spit of land to reach

Abbey Island and visit the ruins of St Finian’s

8th-century abbey.

Just a short 10-minute stroll from the

beach is Derrynane House, the impressive

ancestral home of Daniel O’Connell. O’Con-

nell, a lawyer, politician and subsequent

statesman, is regarded as one of the greatest

figures in Irish history.

Left Valentia Island Lighthouse Right

Derrynane House

LEFT: MNSTUDIO/SHUTTERSTOCK ©, RIGHT: BILDAGENTUR ZOONAR GMBH/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

23

Celebrations

OF OLD

CULTURE | NATURAL BEAUTY | FESTIVALS

With Kerry’s deep Celtic roots, it’s little surprise many of the region’s

communities still celebrate the ancient Celtic festivals: Imbolc for spring,

Bealtaine for summer, Lughnasa in autumn for harvest, Samhain (Halloween)

and the solstices in-between. From mountain pilgrimages to nights of feasting

and music, these traditions are wonderful celebrations of life.

How to

Getting here/around

Killorglin is the largest

festival hub and it has

bus links with the nearby

major towns of Killarney

and Tralee, both accessi-

ble by rail and bus from

Dublin. Use Local Link

Kerry (locallink

kerry.ie) for smaller

village celebrations.

When to go The start of

spring and autumn were

vitally important events

in the pagan calendar so

it’s no surprise that the

best festivals are held at

these times.

Top tip Book accommo-

dation well in advance as

the towns quickly fill up

with festival-goers.

REUTERS/ALAMY STOCK PHOTO ©

YOUNGOGGO/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Biddy’s Day The start of spring, Imbolc, is known today as

St Brigid’s Day or Biddy’s Day. The townland of Kilgobnet

has kept the old traditions of Biddy’s Day (facebook.com/

biddysday) alive for hundreds of years. ‘Biddy Groups’ dressed

in white and handmade straw hats carry an effigy of Brigid (a

Brídeóg) to every home to protect the community from evil

spirits. It’s on the Saturday closest to 1 February.

In the nearby town of Killorglin it has been expanded into

a festival to include traditional music, dancing, storytelling

and straw hat and Brídeóg workshops. In the evening, join the

firelight procession through the town to see the crowning of

the King of the Biddies.

Harvest Festival The village of Cloghane hosts a fantas-

tic Féile Lughnasa (facebook.com/feilelughnasa) with a

weekend of great music, storytelling and a unique parade

where locals parody current events with satirical floats and

costumes. In nearby Brandon, the blessing of the boats takes

place by the pier. Join the ancient pilgrimage to Mt Brandon

with knowledgeable locals, a ritual that’s thousands of years

old. Lughnasa celebrations are held on the last Sunday of July

(the closest date to the traditional Celtic start of autumn).

The Goat King ‘Ireland’s oldest festival’, Puck Fair (puckfair.

ie), is the pride of Killorglin. While revellers feast, dance and sing

for three days every August, ‘King Puck’, a wild goat, is crowned

and placed on a pedestal. The festival’s roots are grounded in

Lughnasa (harvest festival), but its meaning is still debated. The

town is filled with food stalls, street acts, music sessions and

partying.

Left Puck Fair Far left top Biddy’s Day

parade, Killorglin Far left bottom King

Puck statue, Killorglin

Celtic

Connection

Significant days of the

year were supplanted

with Christian calendar

dates in an effort to gain a

foothold in the hearts and

minds of the pagan people

of Ireland. This resulted

in a blending of ancient

Celtic and early Christian

practices.

Lughnasa, the harvest

festival, marked the

coming of autumn with

bountiful feasts and

pilgrimages to the top

of sacred mountains.

These pilgrimages were

in honour of the ancient

pagan god Lugh, who is

said to have held a great

feast and athletics trials

(which included scaling a

mountain), after his moth-

er’s funeral. Pilgrimages

remain significant, albeit

Christianised, and today

they honour Irish saints

(pilgrimpath.ie).

OGNYAN YOSIFOV/ALAMY STOCK PHOTO ©

24

Dingle Views &

BAR PEWS

PANORAMIC VIEWS | PUB LIFE

Tipped as ‘the most

beautiful place on earth’ by

National Geographic, the Dingle

Peninsula has some of the most

breathtaking scenery in Ireland.

Even in the rain there’s beauty

around every corner and there’s a

pub to suit every mood.

Walking the wild side Sheltered between the

foot of Mt Brandon and the wide arc of Bran-

don Bay, the Cloghane and Brandon area is

Dingle Peninsula’s wilder side. It’s a walker’s

paradise and there are cosy pubs to rest feet,

sink a pint and tuck into a delicious meal.

Murphy’s Bar is right on the pier in Brandon,

perfect for an outdoor pint overlooking beau-

tiful Brandon Bay. In Cloghane, O’Connor’s

Bar is one of Ireland’s oldest pubs, offering a

warm welcome and pints by the fire.

Edge of the world The road ends at Brandon

Point, with only the wild Atlantic beyond and

dolphins in the waves below. Walk up to the

old WWII watchtower and stand in awe. On a

clear day you can see as far north as County

Clare. Mt Brandon is a popular mountain

climb, best attempted using Faha Car Park

as the starting point. With the right gear and

How to

Getting around The

nearest train stations

are at Tralee and

Killarney; direct buses

to Dingle take six hours

from Dublin. There is a

local bus service on the

peninsula (locallink

kerry.ie), but having a

car guarantees more

time and flexibility.

When to go Sunny

days are so random in

Ireland that you can be

lucky any time of year.

July and August brings

heavy traffic.

What to wear Pack

walking boots, rainwear

and warm layers as

some viewpoints can

get very windy and wet.

Local Tips

Secret Bay Park at Teer

Cross and walk for around

an hour (4km) along part of

the Dingle Way to stand high

above secluded Sás Creek.

Ancient Tomb The dramatic

valley of Loch a’Dúin contains

over 80 stone-age structures,

including a mini Newgrange – a

tomb illuminated by the setting

sun of the autumn equinox.

Recommended by Micheál

O’Dowd, owner of O’Connor’s Bar

& Guesthouse @micheal.odowd

Left O’Connor’s Bar Above left Brandon

Harbour Above right Mt Brandon

ANGUS MCCOMISKEY/ALAMY STOCK PHOTO ©

4H4 PHOTOGRAPHY/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

WOZZIE/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

weather the views are worth the sore limbs,

but it’s a strenuous trip and can be dangerous

in poor conditions – get local advice before

setting off. It’s approximately 11km out and

back with a gradient of over 900m, so allow

at least five hours in daylight to complete the

hike.

Ireland’s longest beach Pink-gold sand

stretches 14km from Fermoyle Beach out

to a sandy strip called the Maharees, a play-

ground of pristine Atlantic waves and rolling

dunes as far as the eye can see. At the end,

you’ll happily drown your salty lips with a cold

pint at Spillane’s Bar. At sunset, the view

back across the bay to Mount Brandon and

Brandon Point is a special experience.

Heady heights Sandwiched between the

mountainside and a sheer drop to the valley

below, Connor Pass is Ireland’s highest

mountain pass. Take the easy road (around

a 10-minute drive) from Dingle to the top for

jaw-dropping scenery to the north and south.

Hiking

Caherconree

Caherconree mountain

pass is the rougher, older

brother of Connor Pass –

and less of a show-off. This

scenic ‘road of the stones’

winds through the majestic

Slieve Mish Mountains

from Camp to just east of

Inch Beach. Stop at the

signpost for Caherconree

Promontory Fort, strap on

your boots and follow the

trail up to see the remains

of Ireland’s highest stone

fort (683m), home of the

fabled sorcerer and high

king of Munster, Cú Roí. It

can be a tricky ascent in

wet weather as the ground

can be too boggy to cross

but, when it’s clear, the

views of Dingle Bay and

the Iveragh Peninsula are

majestic.

If you do tackle the narrow road down, stop at the

small car park by a waterfall. It’s worth the rocky

scramble to Pedlar’s Lake above it for unparal-

leled views across the valley.

Settle your nerves In Dingle you are spoiled

for choice for pubs after a long day’s drive.

O’Sullivan’s Courthouse and Foxy John’s are

both excellent for creamy pints of the black stuff

and great local banter. For something stronger,

century-old Dick Mack’s has a wall of whiskies,

retaining its reputation as the best whiskey bar in

Ireland. The live traditional music scene in Dingle’s

pubs is hard to beat and easily found.

Land before time It feels like the glaciers have

just receded when you take in the scenery at

Glanteenassig Forest Park, where huge dark

corrie lakes are framed by steep rocky cliffs. There

are excellent walks of all grades and kids love the

fairy-tale boardwalk around Lough Caum. End the

day with a fireside pint at Ashes Pub in the village

of Camp.

Left Views from Caherconree Below

Dick Mack’s

LEFT:PAWEL KRAWIEC/SHUTTERSTOCK ©, RIGHT: D. RIBEIRO/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

The

Emerald

Galaxy

WHEN STAR WARS

CAME TO KERRY

Between 2014 and

2016, Hollywood

descended on the

isolated rock of

Skellig Michael

twice to transform

it into the first Jedi

temple. Visitors

have since flooded

the area in search of

Star Wars, and the

local community has

adapted to living with

its movie fame.

Left and right Skellig Michael

Middle The Moorings

Why Kerry?

As the sacred home of early Christian monks, there’s little

surprise that Star Wars location scouts were drawn in by

the mystical allure of Skellig Michael off Kerry’s remote At-

lantic coast. Seemingly impenetrable, moody and lashed by

the Atlantic, the skellig sits alone 12km offshore at Ireland’s

most southwesterly point. Occupied by monks until around

the 12th century, the former monastery and most of the

island was declared a Unesco World Heritage Site in 1996.

Because of the day-to-day difficulties of ferrying people

to and from the island (often in tempestuous conditions),

it was considered a brave decision from Lucasfilm to

commit to getting an entire film crew out there. The skellig

makes its on-screen debut in Star Wars: The Force Awak-

ens (Episode VII) as the first Jedi temple of Ach-To, where

Rey (played by Daisy Ridley) eventually tracks down Luke

Skywalker (played by Mark Hamill). It then appears again

in key scenes of Star Wars: The Last Jedi (Episode VIII).

Community Involvement

During filming, a 2-mile exclusion zone was set up around

the island, patrolled by a naval boat. But that didn’t mean

that locals of the Iveragh Peninsula, off which Skellig Michael

sits, were excluded from the action. The crew and cast

visited the local school and some were accommodated

and fed at the award-winning The Moorings in Portmagee.

Owners Gerard and Patricia Kennedy also hosted the movie

wrap party at the hotel that year, and still regale visitors with

the story of Mark Hamill learning to pour a pint of Guinness

in their Bridge Bar. Rather than being starstruck, Patricia

remembers one local ‘totally uninterested’, with his back to

the famous Jedi as if he was any other barman.

BRIAN KELLY/EYEEM/GETTY IMAGES ©

When the Star Wars crew returned in 2016 to film The Last

Jedi, they built a replica of the Skellig Michael monastic site to

get around the fact that shooting times were restricted by the

weather-dependent ferry crossings to the island. The replica

was on Ceann Sibéal headland near the village of Baile an

Fheirtéaraigh (Ballyferriter) and filming took place around a

farm run by the Devane family. Local Breege Granville remem-

bers how the rural setting

affected some of the film

workers from inner-city Dub-

lin, recalling encounters with

cows that made ‘the boys

take off running’.

The Lucasfilm Effect

According to the Kennedys,

the Star Wars connection has led to a massive boost in visitors

to the area. Their hotel now runs a popular Star Wars Package

(moorings.ie/star-wars-the-force-awakens), which includes a

tour around Skellig Michael (though not a landing) in season.

Pat Devane, owner of the farm used in filming in 2016, has

created a Sunset Site trail for people to visit the location

where Luke Skywalker fades into ‘the force’, not far from the

summit of Ceann Sibéal.

In 2018, local fans helped launch the May the 4th Festival,

which now runs annually in Ballyferriter, Portmagee, Ballins-

kelligs and Valentia Island. The festival coincides with Féile na

Bealtaine, the Celtic celebrations marking the start of sum-

mer. Local communities blend the two festivals with unique

cultural crossovers, such as the Kerry School of Music playing

the Star Wars scores and local Irish dancers performing in Star

Wars costumes.

The Star Wars

connection has led

to a massive boost in

visitors to the area.

Touring

Skellig Michael

It’s an unforgettable

experience landing on Skellig

Michael (possible mid-May

to September). There are

600 stone steps to climb,

hand-carved by monks in

the 6th century, to reach the

monastic site with its famous

beehive huts 150m above the

sea. As visitor numbers are

restricted, booking in advance

is absolutely essential. Note

that trips can be cancelled in

bad weather. It’s best to stay

the night before in or near

Portmagee as boats don’t

wait if you’re late. Skelligmi-

chael.com has a list of tour

operators and a comprehen-

sive guide to the Skelligs.

Eco tours around the islands

are a wonderful alternative if

landing isn’t possible.

MARCO BOTTIGELLI/GETTY IMAGES ©

MNSTUDIO/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

WILDLIFE

of Kerry

01 Red deers

Killarney National Park

is home to the last

surviving herd of indige-

nous red deer in Ireland

(herds in other counties

were reintroduced using

Scottish deer).

02 Peregrine

falcons

These raptors are the

world’s fastest flying

bird, with the potential

to reach speeds of up to

320km/h while diving

for prey.

03 Marsh

fritillaries

This beautifully

patterned butterfly can

be found in the Killarney

valley. Look out for them

in May and June.

04 Kingfishers

This distinctive bird

is found throughout

Ireland, and can be

spotted by the Deenagh,

Cloghereen and Gear-

hameen rivers in County

Kerry.

05 Puffins

Between April and

August, puffins breed in

colonies on the Skelligs

and Blasket Islands.

Once the puffling chicks

have fledged, the puffins

return to sea.

06 Gannets

Ireland’s largest colony

of nesting gannets is on

Little Skellig, where tens

of thousands of seabirds

gather during the sum-

mer breeding season.

07 Dolphins

The common dolphin is

frequently seen swim-

ming off the Kerry coast.

It’s also possible to spot

the acrobatic breaches

of bottlenose dolphins.

08 Minke whales

This species can be

recognised by the white

band that wraps around

each flipper. They are

most often seen be-

tween April and July.

09 Grey seals

Great Blasket Island is

home to Ireland’s larg-

est grey seal breeding

colony. In autumn furry

pups can be spotted.

10 Basking sharks

The waters around

the Kerry coast are

often visited by basking

sharks, who swim

around open-mouthed

catching plankton.

01 Eric Isselee/shutterstock ©, 02 Hal Beral/GETTY IMAGES ©, 03 Dave Collins / Alamy Stock Photo ©, 04 Butterfly Hunter/shutterstock ©,

05 FotoRequest/SHUTTERSTOCK ©, 06 Kevin Schafer/GETTY IMAGES ©, 07 Vincent Scherer/Alamy Stock Photo ©, 08 Anna L. e Marina Durante/

shutterstock ©, 09 David O’Brien/GETTY IMAGES ©, 10 Marko Steffensen/Alamy Stock Photo

The

Dolphin

that put

Dingle on

the Map

HOW FUNGIE’S FAME

CHANGED A TOWN

It’s rare for a dolphin

to stay solo for long

in one area. Yet, in

Dingle, Fungie found

his pod of two-legged

landlubbers, sea-

farers and swimmers

and never wanted

to leave. He made

it into the Guinness

Book of Records

for longest-living

solitary dolphin, but

disappeared in 2020.

Left Fungie Middle Dingle Harbour

Lighthouse Right Oceanworld

Aquarium

For local residents, Fungie has been synonymous with

Dingle for decades. Councillor Breandán Fitzgerald, who

is from Dingle and was 10 when Fungie arrived almost 40

years ago, says: ‘If anyone asked you where you’re from,

you’d say Dingle, then they’d smile and say “Fungie, the

Dingle Dolphin’”.

When Fungie showed up in 1983, it was a time of deep

recession and emigration in Ireland. Livelihoods in Dingle

centred on fishing and agriculture, both in decline at the

time. Breandán believes Fungie was fundamental to the

change of fortunes for the community. ‘It was retired

fishermen who were bringing people out...they were able

to make a living and their children were able to make a

living,’ he says.

Breandán saw, first-hand, the effect Fungie had on

people staying at his guesthouse. It became apparent

that anyone who encountered Fungie went home with a

memory of a lifetime, and spread the news about their

experience. ‘People would come down on holidays and

see the dolphin...they just wouldn’t be able to stop talking

about the trip,’ he recalls.

Fungie’s fame secured a future for generations of fam-

ilies. Thousands of people every year, over three decades,

visited the area to see him, creating an entire tourism

industry around the playful dolphin.

Jimmy Flannery established Dingle Dolphin Tours

(dingledolphin.com) in 1987 and says he believes ‘Fungie

did more for Dingle than any tourist board could have’.

DAWID K PHOTOGRAPHY/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Deep Connection

Fungie became part of the fabric of the community of Dingle

and the town didn’t just gain economically. To many, he became

a comforting presence in the harbour, even a lifelong friend.

Fishermen leaving the harbour, possibly facing a dangerous

journey at sea, were accompanied by Fungie on their way out

and welcomed back with excited jumps on their return.

One day, Fungie just

disappeared. Jimmy says

that although he always knew

someday Fungie would be

gone, the sense of loss he

feels is palpable. ‘It hits now

and again. I’ve been taking

people out for 33 years and

everywhere you look in the

house, there’s pictures of

Fungie, Fungie with my kids...

he’s everywhere. It’s really like losing a member of the family’.

Fungie’s disappearance has had an impact on the dolphin

boat tour operators, with half of them deciding to drop anchor,

but Jimmy has set up Dingle Sea Safaris to show visitors the

peninsula’s impressive abundance of marine life.

Marine biologist Kevin Flannery says marine life is actually

on the rise. ‘There’s a lot more. For the first time ever, the week

Fungie disappeared we had minke whales in the mouth of Dingle

Harbour,’ he says. Kevin was inspired by Fungie to open Dingle’s

Oceanworld Aquarium. Both he and Jimmy believe that the

popularity of eco trips and wildlife tours in Dingle, and all around

Ireland’s coast, wouldn’t have happened without Fungie.

Thousands of people

every year, over three

decades, visited the

area to see him.

Life after Fungie

Jimmy plans to organise

a mural of Fungie on the

gable of Dingle Harbour

Lighthouse and hopefully,

in the future, a sea wildlife

awareness weekend in Dingle,

dedicated to Fungie.

There’s still an exciting

amount of marine life to

encounter, and the boat

operators traversing the coast

and the Blasket Islands have

years of experience thanks to

Fungie’s presence.

On a Dingle Sea Safari

(dingleseasafari.com) there’s

a chance to regularly see

common dolphins, a huge seal

colony and puffins. Minke,

humpback and fin whales

show up seasonally and

sometimes even orca can be

found here. ‘That’s Fungie’s

legacy,’ says Jimmy.

POTSTOCK/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

KENNETH GINN/GETTY IMAGES ©

Listings

BEST OF THE REST

Parks & Family Attractions

Kells Bay Gardens

Perfect for young intrepid explorers. Enjoy

strolling through peaceful woodland and spot-

ting large carved dinosaurs, then stroll to the

secluded beach a 10-minute walk away.

Bonane Heritage Park

One of Kerry’s most significant archaeological

sites, where the Ring of Kerry and Ring of

Beara meet. There’s a spectacular summer

solstice alignment here in June.

Killarney National Park

Families can enjoy a horse-drawn tour by

jaunting car, roam the extensive grounds to

find wild deer and take a tour with Muckross

Traditional Farms to learn about 1930s and

1940s rural Ireland.

Glenbeigh Fairy Forest

Take a leisurely stroll through this forest

to discover around 50 fairy huts, 1km from

Glenbeigh Village. Entertaining for young ones

with imagination.

Gleninchaquin Park

Right on the Beara Peninsula, this family-run

park has a mix of easy sloping terrains,

cascading waterfalls, and serene woodland as

well as more challenging walking routes.

Kerry Dishes & Coffee

Jack’s Coastguard Restaurant €€

Perfect stop on the Ring of Kerry with pan-

oramic sea and mountain views, serving Irish

dishes such as seafood specialities and local

Kerry lamb. In a former station dating to 1866.

Parkgate Coffee

Popular takeaway coffee spot with queues out

the door. Grab your coffee and take a stroll to

nearby Tralee Town Park.

Sol y Sombra €€

Sip cocktails and indulge in tapas (pork belly,

scallops, tostadas) at this restaurant built into

the atmospheric renovated church in down-

town Killorglin. Live gigs throughout the year.

Bean in Dingle

Bright, smart coffee shop with hot brews and

sweet treats. Queues are worth the wait on

Green St.

The Smugglers Inn €€€

This Waterville restaurant is well known for

serving up top-class food presented with

style, overlooking the serene beach at Ballins-

kelligs. Garden for alfresco dining.

Beaufort Bar & Restaurant €€

This bar dates back to 1841 and serves up

local Irish food, including a delicious rack of

Kerry lamb.

Perfect Pubs, Pints & Tipples

Tigh TP

Sink a pint or two with beautiful views across

the water while sitting outside TP’s in Baile an

nGall (Ballydavid), followed by a walk on the

beach.

John B Keane’s Pub

Savour slow-poured pints and great conversa-

tion in this intimate establishment in Listowel,

run by the family of one of Ireland’s most

celebrated playwrights.

Tigh an tSaorsaigh

Many visitors love this great Irish pub in

Baile an Fheirtéaraigh (Ballyferriter). Right in

the West Kerry Gaeltacht, expect animated

discussions and tasty drinks.

Crowley’s Bar

Drinks are always flowing in Kenmare at this

lively establishment with traditional music

and song. A night out not to be missed.

PF McCarthy’s

A long-established, lively pub in Kenmare

with live music. Perfect for groups, dates, or a

solo night out.

Arts & Pottery

Cill Rialaig Arts Centre

Contemporary, creative space five minutes

from Ballinskellig beach, where artists from

across the world exhibit their work. On-site

cafe, shop and children’s workshops.

Louis Mulcahy Pottery

A delightful pottery shop with on-site cafe

near Ballyferrriter. Robust stoneware porce-

lain from dining sets to colourful urns. Ships

around the world.

Greenlane Gallery

Distinguished and distinctive artists display

their work here (paintings, sculptures, jewel-

lery), including world-renowned Liam O’Neill.

Right in the heart of Dingle.

Siamsa Tíre

The National Folk Theatre is in Tralee Town

Park. Expect everything from musicals to dra-

matic pieces, as well as an airy gallery space.

Kerry Culture & History

Gallarus Oratory

This much visited site is one of the best-pre-

served early Christian churches in Ireland,

John B Keane’s Pub

built between the 7th and 8th centuries. It’s

on the Slea Head Drive (p152).

Staigue Fort

West of Sneem, this impressive ancient mon-

ument has a commanding view of the bay. It’s

well maintained and has a circular rampart

surrounded by an external bank.

Skellig Experience

Exhibitions on the history of the monks on the

isolated island, wildlife and lighthouses. It’s on

Valentia Island; worth visiting if you can’t get

to Skellig Michael.

Crag Cave

This ancient cave system, thought to be over

a million years old, was once full of water and

houses beautiful stalagmites and stalactites.

Less than five minutes from Castleisland.

Kerry County Museum

An interpretative experience in Tralee, with

a focus on archaeology and exploration. Its

award-winning Tom Crean Exhibition tells the

story of the heroic Irish Antarctic explorer.

Scan for things to see, do

and try in Kerry

GABRIEL12/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

25

Meander the

SHANNON

WATERWAYS | SCENERY | HISTORY

Meandering through 11

counties on its 360km journey

to the sea, the majestic River

Shannon is Ireland’s longest.

Recently listed among the world’s

most scenic river journeys,

the ‘Wise River’ can be your

waymarker to discover Ireland’s

hidden heartlands.

Ancient Settlements to

Modern Communities

The mighty River Shannon was a vital water-

way and trading route for centuries. Nowa-

days the Shannon and its lakes are popular

for fishing, stunning scenery and a variety of

activities both on and off the water, including

kayaking, SUP, cycling and hiking. Blueways

ireland.org is a good trip-planning resource.

Lough Derg, the largest of the Shannon’s

three lakes, is home to some 376 islands,

the most notable being Inis Cealtra (Holy

Island). Lesser known than Clonmacnoise

further north on the banks of the Shannon, this

6th-century monastic settlement features four

high crosses, a holy well, the ruins of a round

tower and several small churches. Although

it’s now uninhabited, except by some intrepid

How to

Getting here/around

Carrick-on-Shannon

is Ireland’s cruising

capital and is linked by

direct train and bus ser-

vices from Dublin. Here

you can arrange river

cruises and excursions

(waterwaysireland.org).

When to go Summer

(June to August, peak

season and school

holidays) has the best

weather and longest

days. Prepare for all

weather conditions

whenever you visit and

pack insect repellent in

summer. Consider May

or September to avoid

crowds and midgies.

A Pint in Ireland’s

Oldest Pub

An evening in the pub

is a quintessential Irish

experience. Believed to be in

existence for over a thousand

years, Sean’s Bar in Athlone

holds the Guinness World

Record for oldest pub in Ire-

land, and possibly the world.

It doesn’t get more traditional

than that.

Left Athlone Above left River Shannon

Above right Sean’s Bar, Athlone

WALSHPHOTOS/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

JOHN AND PENNY/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

NICK SCOTT/ALAMY STOCK PHOTO ©

grazing cattle and sheep, funerals still take

place in the graveyard with mourners trans-

ported from the mainland on small boats. Boat

trips to the island leave from Mountshannon

Harbour.

Up until the 20th century, the ‘wise river’

operated as a transport channel, and today

numerous bustling harbour towns and quaint

villages still line its banks. Picturesque Killaloe

on the banks of Lough Derg was the birthplace

of Brian Ború, High King of Ireland (r 1002-14).

Brian lived and reigned from the village, briefly

making it Ireland’s capital. The 12th-century St

Flannan’s Cathedral, which houses a carved

Ogham Stone discovered in 1916 and dated to

1000 CE, will delight history buffs. Killaloe is

linked with neighbouring town Ballina by an

impressive 13-arch stone bridge, which also

links the counties of Clare and Tipperary. Join

locals jumping off the bridge to cool off on a

(rare) warm summer’s day.

Experience

Lough Ree

The other Nessie Lesser

known than its Scottish

counterpart, the Lough

Ree monster’s earliest

mention dates back to the

7th century. More recently

in 1960, three priests were

fishing and one spotted a

large black creature 6ft in

length swimming up the

lough. Head to Athlone to

spot Ireland’s answer to

Nessie.

Birdwatching Keen birders

will twitch at Lough Ree,

designated a Special

Protection Area for its

population of migratory

waterfowl. The migratory

season starts in March.

Family fun For a unique

family day out, check out

Baysports (baysports.ie)

on the lake – Ireland’s larg-

est inflatable water park.

Modern Marvels, Mother Nature

Nearing the Atlantic, seabirds and wildlife

populate the Shannon estuary’s mudflats and

manufactured marvels appear.

Harnessing H2O Regarded as a major

engineering feat of the 20th century, the

Ardnacrusha Power Station (esb.ie) was the

largest, most powerful hydroelectric power

plant in the world when completed in 1929.

Today, it’s still operational and visitors can

sign up for a tour.

Getting airborne The village of Foynes has

a unique claim to fame. The first commercial

passenger flight between New York and Europe

landed here in 1939 using the Shannon as a

watery runway. Foynes Flying Boat & Mari-

time Museum is one of a kind and houses the

world’s only full-size replica of a Boeing B314 –

a must for aviation enthusiasts. These trans-

atlantic seaplanes were the absolute height of

luxury in their day.

For a modern luxury experience, stay

in nearby Adare Manor, an architecturally

astounding 19th-century home, restored to

five-star hotel standards.

Wild Atlantic The Shannon culminates at

Loop Head (loophead.ie). The rugged coastal

beauty here is breathtaking and much lesser

known than the nearby Cliffs of Moher. Don’t

miss the Kilkee Cliffs and Bridges of Ross for

jaw-dropping views. Keep your eyes peeled for

dolphins.

If driving, save time and take the Shannon

Ferry between Tarbert and Killimer (shannon

ferries.com).

Left Lough Ree Right Ogham stone,

St Flannan’s Cathedral

LEFT: YACKERS1/SHUTTERSTOCK ©, RIGHT: CM DIXON/PRINT COLLECTOR/GETTY IMAGES ©

WEST OF

IRELAND

NATURE | CLIFFS | MUSIC

Connemara National Park

► Galways Pubs & Reels

(p186)

► Cruising the Cliffs

(p188)

► Walk the Rocky Burren

(p192)

► Wildlife of the Burren

(p194)

► Grace O’Malley: The

Pirate Queen (p196)

► Surf Sessions in Sligo

(p198)

► Listings (p200)

LOUIS-MICHEL DESERT/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

WEST OF

IRELAND

Trip Builder

The West of Ireland is full of adventure. Follow the trail

of a pirate queen in County Mayo, take to the waves for surf-

ing, or visit County Clare to cruise under giant sea cliffs and

admire wild flowers in the Burren’s limestone fissures.

Visit pirate queen Grace

O’Malley’s castle on Clare

Island (p196)

½ day

Learn how traditional

drums are made at a

bodhrán workshop in

Roundstone (p187)

½ day

Stop for a swim in

the clear waters of

Fanore Beach (p193)

½ day

Walk the Cliffs of Moher

and then cruise under

them (p188)

1 day

Watch big-wave surfers or try

freediving at Mullaghmore

(p198)

½ day

Spot seabirds and marine life

on a sea kayaking trip from

Rosses Point (p199)

½ day

Take a surfing lesson

in Strandhill and

then have a seaweed

bath (p198)

½ day

Hear traditional live

music sessions in

the pubs of Galway

(p186)

2 hr

Take up the challenge of

the 26km Black Head

Loop hike (p192)

1 day

Admire the wild flowers

while wandering in The

Burren (p192)

½ day

MARK_GUSEV/SHUTTERSTOCK ©,

TERRY HARRIS/ALAMY STOCK PHOTO ©,

HUGH BRYCE/500PX/GETTY IMAGES ©,

MIKROMAN6/GETTY IMAGES ©

Practicalities

ARRIVING

By air There are international airports at Shan-

non in County Clare and Knock in County Mayo.

By train Sligo, Westport, Galway and Limerick

are the main train stations.

By car The main motorways are the M4/M6

from Dublin to Galway, the M7 to Limerick and

the M18 linking Galway and Limerick.

HOW MUCH

FOR A

Half-dozen

oysters €13

Bowl of chowder

€8

Surfboard rental

€20

GETTING AROUND

Car The best option for sightsee-

ing and flexibility to stop at scenic

viewpoints.

Bus There are bus connections

between main towns. Check

buseireann.ie or private operators

for routes and timetables.

Bicycle A popular way to get

around, with several on- and off-

road signed routes to explore.

WHEN TO GO

JAN - MAR

The coldest months; evenings

noticeably brighter after March.

APR - JUN

Longer, warmer days towards

June, but risk of showers.

JUL - SEP

Warmest, with long summer

nights. Always expect rain.

OCT - DEC

Stronger wind and waves. Much

cooler, especially in December.

SHUTTERUPEIRE/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

EATING & DRINKING

Galway oysters The city is famed for oysters, with an annual festival

celebrating them every September.

Smoked fish Buy direct from smokehouses in the Burren and Conn-

emara, or from local delis.

Achill Island Sea Salt A natural product, harvested in small batches

from the Atlantic waters off Achill Island.

Calvey’s mountain lamb Sweetened by heather and salty air.

Must-try seafood chowder

Doolin (p202)

Best for honey

The Burren (p202)

WHERE TO STAY

Cities and towns can get busy around festival times and in July, August

and bank holidays, so book well in advance.

CONNECT & FIND YOUR WAY

Wi-fi Available at most accom-

modations, but unlikely to be high

speed. It can be difficult to pick

up a phone signal in very remote

areas, and 3G/4G coverage can be

patchy or non-existent in parts of

Connemara and the Burren.

Navigation If you are hiking or

exploring remote areas and using

your phone to navigate, have back-

up maps and communication.

Place

Pro/Con

Galway City

A good base for food and nightlife. Plenty of

accommodation options in the city, from hos-

tels to five-star hotels. Can get busy during

festivals and events.

Connemara

Good for rural stays. Look for quiet country

houses, glamping and B&Bs.

Westport Town

A lively spot; good base for exploring the

area, with plenty of accommodation, pub and

restaurant options.

Sligo

Good midrange choices in the town, or

around the county. Remote B&Bs, country

houses and quirky glampsites.

GREAT WESTERN

GREENWAY

This 44km off-road cycling trail

follows the route of the former

Westport–Achill Railway. Bike

rental is available in Westport

(greenway.ie).

MONEY

Credit and debit cards are widely accepted and you

will find ATMs in the main towns.

TOP: DIETMAR RAUSCHER/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

BOTTOM: RSOOLL/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

26

Galway Pubs

& REELS

MUSIC | CULTURE | NIGHTLIFE

Wandering around the pubs of Galway to hear traditional Irish music is

a fun experience, as there are live sessions of jigs and reels every night. Hearing

instruments like the fiddle (violin), accordion, bodhrán and banjo in full flow

will get your feet tapping – these are often accompanied by the tin whistle, flute

and uillean pipes (Irish bagpipes).

How to

Getting around Most live

music venues are in the

city centre, which is easy

to navigate on foot.

When to go Galway can

be busy in high season,

on bank holiday week-

ends and during festivals

and the Galway Races.

How much? Most live tra-

ditional music sessions

in pubs are free; the cost

of other music gigs varies

per venue.

LES GIBBON/ALAMY STOCK PHOTO ©

GERARD PLAUCHE/GETTY IMAGES ©

Far left top The Quays Far left

bottom Uillean pipes

‘Music is a big part of the culture of Galway. There’s a lot of

soul,’ says Galwayman Johnny ‘RingO’ McDonagh, a world-

famous bodhrán player who has toured the world with Dé

Danann and Riverdance. Here, he shares his favourite Galway

pubs.

Atmosphere One of Johnny’s favourites to play traditional

music in is Tig Chóilí (Mainguard St), which has two trad

sessions a day. ‘It has a great atmosphere. Lots of well-known

musicians join in,’ he says. ’Sometimes it gets so crowded

with musicians, there might be 10 musicians waiting to play.’

Johnny’s tip is to visit on a quiet day like a Monday.

Relaxing Sundays Try the The Crane Bar (Sea Rd), which

has sessions every night, an afternoon session at weekends

and a famous Sunday morning session. ‘It’s very welcoming

and homely, there’s a great vibe in the place on a Sunday

morning, it’s very relaxed,’ says Johnny.

Singing Popular with GAA sports fans and busy on weekends,

Taaffes Bar (Shop St) is recommended by Johnny for nightly

trad sessions and ballad bands. ‘You find a lot of different

types of musicians at the trad session,’ says Johnny.

History Don’t miss Tigh Neachtain (Cross St), which dates to

1894 and is at the heart of the Galway music scene, with many

famous musicians dropping in. Even older is The Quays (Quay

St), which dates back 400 years and has Irish and internation-

al bands playing every night of the week.

Beating

the Bodhrán

This traditional Irish

drum is beaten on one

side with a ‘tipper’. It is

made from goatskin that

is specially treated and

then stretched over a

wood frame. A good place

to learn about it is at the

Connemara workshop of

Ireland’s master bodhrán

maker, Malachy Kearns,

who has been crafting

instruments for more than

40 years. His bodhráns

have gone on to star in ev-

erything from Riverdance

to the movie Titanic. The

workshop in Roundstone,

County Galway (bodhran.

com), is open seven days

with a viewing area to

look at bodhrán making.

Book in advance for a talk

on bodhráns and their

history.

27

Cruising the

CLIFFS

WALKING | CLIFFS | NATURE

Experience the thrill of

walking along the Cliffs of Moher

– magnificent sea cliffs that

stretch for 8km along the County

Clare coast and plunge 214m into

the powerful Atlantic Ocean – or

soak up their mightiness from sea-

level on a cliff cruise.

How to

Getting around Start

the walk from the

Hag’s Head car park. To

return, there’s a shuttle

bus between Doolin,

the visitor centre and

Hag’s Head from June

to August.

When to go March to

October. As Ireland’s

most visited natural

attraction, it’s busy

at weekends and in

summer. Arrive early

morning or late after-

noon to avoid crowds.

Boat trips Leave from

Doolin; the walk here

from Hag’s Head is

around 14km.

Cliffs of Moher walk Start at Hag’s Head,

the most southerly point of the cliffs. It takes

around two hours to walk the 6km from here

to the main visitor centre. You’ll see Moher

Tower, the ruin of an old watchtower.

While you walk, you can admire the three

Aran Islands in Galway Bay and, on a clear

day, see right across Galway Bay to the Twelve

Pins and Maumturks mountain range in

Connemara National Park. To the south, you

might see as far as Loop Head and beyond to

County Kerry.

Wildlife The area is teeming with wildlife.

You’ll see and hear some of the thousands of

seabirds – ledges on the cliffs provide nesting

sites for more than 20 species, which are in

residence from around April to the beginning

of August. June or July are the best months to

see them and you will need binoculars.

Best Light

for Photography

If you’re photographing the

cliffs, afternoon or evening

is the best time, when they

are lit up by the evening sun.

Always take care, as cliff

edges can be unstable. ‘If

you’re taking photos of the

cliffs in the morning, you

need overcast weather, not

blue sky,’ says local walking

guide Cormac McGinley.

Left Boat trip to the Cliffs of Moher

Above left Cliffs of Moher Above right

O’Brien’s Tower (p190)

MIKROMAN6/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

YINGNA CAI/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

JOHANNES RIGG/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

‘There are three or four wild goats living on

the cliff face, keep an eye out for them,’ says

Cormac McGinley from Cormac’s Coast

(cormacscoast.com) walking tours. Wild

flowers, such as sea pink, birdsfoot trefoil, sea

campion and some orchids, also cling to the

cliffs.

Geology Local Liscannor stone has been

used for walls along the walk. ‘Keep an eye out

for trace fossils in the stone,’ says Cormac.

‘They are animal tracks – squiggly lines seen

in the cliffs – from animals that died 300

million years ago.’

The Cliffs of Moher Visitor Centre (cliff

sofmoher.ie) displays more information about

the geology of the cliffs. O’Brien’s Tower

nearby was built as a viewing tower in 1835,

with the best views from the top.

Cruise the Cliffs

Take a cruise along the Cliffs of Moher with

Doolin2Aran Ferries (doolin2aranferries.

Birds at the

Cliffs of Moher

Atlantic puffins winter at

sea and return to nest on

grassy cliff ledges. Most

visible in June and July.

Peregrine falcons are here

year-round. They can reach

speeds of up to 240km/h

– the fastest animal on the

planet.

Red-billed chough, also

known as the Celtic Crow,

is an endangered species

that can be found at the

cliffs year-round.

Guillemots live at sea

and only come to land to

nest, laying their eggs on

the cliffs. There are tens of

thousands of them, most

visible in May and June.

Recommended by marine

biologist Cormac McGinley

of Cormac’s Coast

@cormacscoast

com) or Doolin Ferry Co (doolinferry.com) to

get close to the massive rock faces and to re-

ally appreciate the height of these huge grey

rock walls from the sea. The boat trips start

and end in the village of Doolin and will take

you along the cliffs as far as Hag’s Head.

Stacks and arches Travelling by boat, you’ll

see how the power of the Atlantic waves has

created magnificent rock formations, like the

sea stack An Branán Mór and sea arches

such as the one under Moher Tower. Rocky

ledges provide shelter and nesting sites for up

to 30,000 breeding pairs of seabirds.

Cruises pass the highest point of the cliffs

at Knockardakin, near O’Brien’s Tower, which

rise 214m above sea level. Look out for sea

caves along the way, including the cave that

featured as the Horcrux cave in the film Harry

Potter and the Half-Blood Prince. Occasionally

seals, dolphins or basking sharks are spotted

from the cruises too.

Trips take around one hour. They are

seasonal from March to October and are

weather-dependant. Both ferries also run trips

from Doolin to the nearby Aran Islands.

Left Peregrine falcon Right An

Branán Mór

LEFT: MILLE19/GETTY IMAGES ©, RIGHT: GABRIELA INSURATELU/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

28

Walk the Rocky

BURREN

OUTDOORS | NATURE | DAY TRIP

Nothing will prepare you for the stark, grey limestone plateaus of the

Burren in County Clare, which translates from Irish as ‘rocky place’. Hike here to

experience the limestone pavements and delicate flora and fauna, while soaking

up coastal views.

How to

Getting around Start and finish the walk to Black Head at Fanore Beach car

park. Most of the walk is off-road and should take around one hour each way.

When to go Between spring and autumn; the best time to see the wild flowers

in bloom is around May.

Top tips Keep a look out for wild goats. Leave no trace of your visit and don’t

move any rocks or stones on the limestone pavement.

Hike the

Black Head Loop

This challenging

26km trail goes

around Black Head

and through the

Gleninagh Pass

and Feenagh Valley.

Terrain varies from

grassy tracks to

mountain paths and

can be rough and

overgrown in places.

Set aside six to eight

hours, take a trail

map and wear hiking

boots.

MNSTUDIO/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

01  Stroll the golden sands of

Fanore Beach, swim (or surf)

in the clear waters, explore

the sand dunes or look for

fossils in the limestone bed-

rock around the beach.

02  Look down into the grykes

(crevices) between the lime-

stone clints (slabs) to spot

rare wild flowers – orchids,

gentians, mountain avens and

bloody cranesbill – brought

by birds from Alpine, Arctic

and Mediterranean origins.

03  Explore the huge flat

layers of exposed limestone

pavement that reach right

down to the shore at Mur-

rooghtoohy, with erratics

(huge boulders) left behind by

the ice age.

04  Stop at the tip of

Black Head to soak up

the views of Black Head

Lighthouse and out over

Galway Bay to the three

Aran Islands.

05  Detour down a grassy

lane to Gleninagh Castle,

a tower house that dates

to the late 1500s and

overlooks a stony beach.

The holy well nearby is

said to cure eye ailments.

MARTINAM/GETTY IMAGES ©,

SCENICIRELAND.COM / CHRISTOPHER HILL PHOTOGRAPHIC/ALAMY STOCK PHOTO ©

WILDLIFE

of the Burren

01 Rare flowers

Spring and summer

are the best time to

see wild flowers like the

mountain aven, spring

gentian, Irish orchid

and bloody cranesbill

all in bloom.

02 Irish hares

The coat of the Irish

mountain hare is

reddish-brown in

summer. It’s larger than

a rabbit and can run up

to 60km/h.

03 Butterflies

There are around 30

species of butterfly

– look out for the brim-

stone, which is yellow,

or the pearl-bordered

fritillary, which is only

found here.

04 Red foxes

Red foxes live in dens

and are mostly noctur-

nal, but are sometimes

spotted during the day

here.

05 Feral goats

There’s a herd of feral

goats roaming these

hills. They’re identi-

fiable by their woolly

coats and large horns.

06 Bats

There are seven

different species of bat

in the Burren, including

the endangered lesser

horseshoe bat, and they

hibernate in the area’s

caves.

07 Birds

There are 100 species,

including visiting

peregrine falcons and

migrating whooper

swans. Listen out for

the call of the meadow

pipit, skylark and

cuckoo.

08 Pine martens

These elusive creatures

are tricky to spot as

they hunt at night.

They’re the same size

as a domestic cat, with

a bushy tail.

01 MARTIN FOWLER/SHUTTERSTOCK ©, 02 BEN WHITLEY/SHUTTERSTOCK ©, 03 SORU EPOTOK/SHUTTERSTOCK ©, 04 ERIC ISSELEE/SHUTTERSTOCK ©, 05 THE IRISH

IMAGE COLLECTION/DESIGN PICS/GETTY IMAGES ©, 06 AALTAIR/SHUTTERSTOCK ©, 07 ENDA FLYNN/ALAMY STOCK PHOTO ©, 08 AALTAIR/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Grace

O’Malley:

The Pirate

Queen

THE WOMAN WHO

RULED BY LAND AND

BY SEA

Grace O’Malley, also

known as Granuaile,

was a powerful

female leader who

commanded her

own army and fleet

of galleys. Follow

in her footsteps by

visiting her castles

around the County

Mayo coast, and hear

stories of how she

came to rule in the

16th century.

Left Clare Island Middle Wall

painting, Cistercian Abbey Right

Kildavnet Castle

Grace O’Malley, Ireland’s ‘pirate queen’, was born in 1530

into the seafaring Uí Mháille, (O’Malley), clan, who ruled

Clew Bay and the surrounding territory, including Clare

Island. For generations, they earned their wealth through

fishing and trading to Spain and Scotland as well as some

plundering and piracy on the side.

Well educated in her youth, Grace, who is also known

by the names Gráinne Ní Mháille or Granuaile, chose a

career in seafaring, then a bold and dangerous occupation

that was considered taboo for a woman. Her ability as an

intrepid seafarer and her success as a businesswoman

meant that her crew and army of 200 men acknowledged

her as their commander and remained loyal to her

throughout her long life. With her own ships and crews,

she traded and pirated successfully for over 50 years

along the coasts of Ireland and Scotland.

On land, Grace became involved in the politics of the pe-

riod, initially leading her army by land and sea in rebellion

against the English invasion of her territory. Later, she

used her political acumen to sail to London in 1593 and

negotiate directly with Queen Elizabeth I.

Grace married twice and when her second husband, the

powerful chieftain Richard-in-Iron Bourke, died in 1583,

Grace seized his Rockfleet castle on the north shore of

Clew Bay. From here she continued her seafaring activities

well into her old age, until her death in 1603. She is buried

in the abbey on Clare Island.

As Anne Chambers, author of Grace’s biography,

discovered in her search for the woman behind the legend,

‘Grace O’Malley challenged and triumphed over the

boundaries placed in her path, both by man and by nature,

TRAVELPIX LTD/GETTY IMAGES ©

to become the world’s first recorded feminist trailblazer.

Commanding by sea makes her unique among other female

leaders in history. Today, with focus on such issues as gender

equality and female empowerment, as well as ageism, this

makes her shine as an inspirational beacon to women

everywhere.’

In Grace’s Footsteps

You can follow in Granu-

aile’s footsteps on Clare

Island, where Granuaile’s

Castle, a 16th-century

tower house, overlooks the

harbour where Grace’s ships

once anchored. The nearby

Cistercian Abbey houses

medieval wall paintings, the

O’Malley coat of arms with

their motto ‘Terra Marique

Potens’ meaning powerful by land and sea, and the tomb said

to be Grace O’Malley’s final resting place.

On Achill Island, another 15th-century O’Malley tower house,

Kildavnet Castle, overlooks Achill Sound. Rockfleet Castle,

Grace O’Malley’s last known address, still stands in a quiet

inlet of Clew Bay. ‘The coastal area associated with Grace

O’Malley is undoubtedly one of the most beautiful in Ireland,’

says Anne. ‘With Clare Island guarding its entrance leading to

the historic port of Westport... it’s an appropriate setting for a

pirate queen.’

Find Out More

Grace O’Malley: The Biog-

raphy of Ireland’s Pirate

Queen 1530–1603 (1979)

Author Anne Chambers

(graceomalley.com) tells the

remarkable true story of this

extraordinary leader.

Granuaile Visitor Centre

In Louisburgh. A video and

exhibition about Grace’s life

and exploits, as well as about

Ireland of the 1500s, the

O’Malley Clan, Clew Bay and

the surrounding area.

Granuaile Loop Walk Take

this 6.7km trail around Achill

Island for amazing views of

Clew Bay and Achill Sound.

The trail starts and ends at

Pattens Bar and takes around

2½hours (achilltourism.com).

Westport House The ancestral

home of Grace O’Malley’s de-

scendants (westporthouse.ie).

With her own ships and

crews, she traded and

pirated successfully for

over 50 years along the

coasts of Ireland and

Scotland.

THE IRISH IMAGE COLLECTION/DESIGN PICS/GETTY IMAGES ©

DVLCOM/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

29

Surf Sessions

IN SLIGO

SURFING | ADVENTURE | WILD ATLANTIC WAY

Punctuating the Sligo coastline are countless beach breaks, headlands

and reefs that produce some of the best and most consistent surf in the country.

From riding the gentle beginner breaks at Enniscrone to watching the world’s

elite big-wave surfers getting towed into giant barrels at Mullaghmore, Sligo has

it all. Start planning your surfari with these epic Irish waves.

How to

When to go September

to May is the prime time

for waves in Ireland, when

the Atlantic swells are

most powerful, but you

can surf year-round.

What to wear You will

need at least 3mm of

neoprene in summer

and autumn, and 5mm

in winter and spring. A

hood, gloves and booties

are advised in the colder

months.

Rentals Wetsuits and

foam and hard boards

can be rented from 7th

Wave Surf School in

Enniscrone.

GARY MCCALL/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

MARK_GUSEV/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Far left top Surfer, Mullaghmore Head

Far left bottom Strandhill Beach

Find Your Perfect Spot

Beginner-friendly breaks Enniscrone and Strandhill are

excellent beaches for learners to hone their skills. There are

plenty of surf schools at each beach, offering lessons to get

you up and riding in the Sligo surf. Due to county regulations,

you cannot rent surfboards in Strandhill so if you don’t have

your own gear, you will need to enrol in a lesson.

Intermediate and advanced The faster waves at Easkey

combine barrelling sections with whackable walls that track

over the rocky reef. Easkey left, near the river mouth, works

best with a high incoming tide while Easkey right, just east of

the castle, is a reliable break that can produce picture-

perfect tubes in the right conditions. Streedagh Strand also

delivers consistent surf with both beach and reef breaks.

Northwest-facing Strandhill can hold swells of up to 4ft before

maxing out.

One to watch Mullaghmore Head is home to one of the

biggest, coldest and heaviest waves on the planet. Waves

standing more than 60ft tall are tackled by a handful of the

most elite big-wave surfers from Ireland and around the world.

Seeing these dedicated athletes brave these huge swells,

paddling and towing into gigantic walls of water, is a sight

to behold. The surf can be viewed safely from Mullaghmore

Head, but be careful as the weather can be wild.

Alternative Sligo

Water Adventures

Sea kayaking Get up

close and personal with

marine and birdlife and

witness jaw-dropping

scenery by sea kayak.

West Coast Kayaking has

everything you need to

get your paddle adventure

started. (westcoast

kayaking.ie)

Freediving In Mullagh-

more, Freedive Ireland is

the country’s first freed-

iving school. It provides

a range of courses, from

one-day experiences to

multiday training pro-

grams, so you can explore

the underwater world on a

single breath. (freedive

ireland.com)

Kitesurfing Rosses

Point is an untouched

stretch of beach, perfectly

positioned for kitesurfers

to enjoy Sligo’s prevailing

westerlies. You will need

your own equipment, as

rentals are not available

locally.

GARY MCCALL/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Listings

BEST OF THE REST

Nature Immersion

Wild Nephin Ballycroy National Park

Start at the visitor centre and then explore

more than 150 sq km of Atlantic bogland,

mountains and wilderness. Visit the park on a

clear night to experience Mayo Dark Sky Park.

Derrigimlagh Bog

Cycle or walk through this section of Galway

peat blanket bog, and see the site of the

world’s first transatlantic radio station and

where Alcock and Brown crash landed in 1919

after the first non-stop transatlantic flight.

Westport Cruises

Take a leisurely 1½-hour trip around the hund-

reds of tiny islands in Clew Bay, meet a local

colony of seals and see holy Croagh Patrick

mountain from the water.

Connemara National Park

There’s lots to see here in Galway’s national

park, with 2000 hectares of mountains, bog

and forest and plenty of rare plant species,

birds, rabbits and foxes. If you’re lucky, you

might even find some Connemara ponies.

Doolin Cave

Go underground and see some of the cave

formations beneath the Burren in County

Clare – including the Great Stalactite, which

hangs down 7.3m, making it Europe’s longest

free-hanging stalactite.

Killary Harbour

Take to the calm waters of Ireland’s longest

fjord in a kayak, or soak up the surrounds on

a leisurely 90-minute cruise of this 16km-

long waterway in County Mayo.

Hazelwood Forest

This gorgeous forest in Sligo is set on the

shores of Lough Gill with a lovely view of some

of the lake’s islands. It’s perfect for a peaceful

nature walk, with some sculpture along the

way.

Inishbofin Island

Take the 30-minute ferry out to the island

from Cleggan, 10km northwest of Clifden,

and rent a bike or walk the island for nature,

unspoilt beaches and the ruins of a castle, an

old chapel and a graveyard.

History & Tradition

National Museum of Ireland – Country Life

Wander the folklife collection at this Mayo

museum to get a picture of life in rural Ireland

in times gone by. You can also explore the

mansion house.

Connemara Heritage Centre

Just outside Clifden, this family-run farm and

heritage centre is a good spot to learn about

the history and traditions of Connemara, with

Connemara ponies, donkeys and chickens.

Moyne Friary

SHAWNWIL23/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Céide Fields

This fascinating heritage site in County Mayo

is a record of farming, with the evidence of

fields, dwelling areas and tombs dating back

6,000 years to the Stone Age.

The Burren Centre

Visit this centre in Kilfenora, County Clare,

for exhibitions and audiovisual recordings

to teach you about this unusual rocky land-

scape, plus a craft shop and tea room.

Connemara Wild Escapes

Step aboard a traditional Galway Hooker

sailing boat for a two- or three-hour trip along

the Connemara coast to learn all about the

maritime traditions of the area.

Killary Sheep Farm

See a demonstration of how the sheepdogs

are trained, watch a sheep-shearing demo,

see bog cutting in action or go on a country-

side walk around Leenane in County Mayo.

Beth Moran Handweaver

If you’re taken with the spinning or weaving

you see at this studio and shop on Clare Island,

you can come back for a weekend or week-

long course and learn the craft for yourself.

Moyne Friary

See the impressive ruins of a friary, with

well-preserved cloisters, a tower and a

church. It dates to 1455 and is one of the

largest Franciscan friaries in Ireland.

Adventure

Croagh Patrick

Climb this holy mountain in Mayo for the views

over Clew Bay and its islands from the summit

– the terrain is rocky, so bring good hiking

shoes and rent a hiking stick at the base.

Delphi Adventure Centre

There’s lots to do on both land and water

at this Connemara adventure centre, with

Croagh Patrick

kayaking, surfing, climbing and more, plus a

spa to unwind in afterwards and overnight

accommodation at Delphi Resort.

Northwest Adventure Tours

Go paddleboarding at dawn on Lough Gill, bik-

ing in the Sligo hills or on a forest night hike

with this adventure company – you can even

bike to a paddling session or a seaweed bath.

Great Western Greenway

Walk or cycle this off-road trail from Westport

to Achill Island, which runs 42km along an old

railway line. It’s divided into three stages, with

views of the mountains and sea.

Killary Adventure Company

Try a turf challenge obstacle course, gorge

walking or a sunset fishing trip – there’s even

a giant paddleboard to fit all the family in this

fun adventure centre just outside Leenane.

Island View Riding Stables

Go horse riding on a County Sligo beach or

even to a private island for a picnic – there are

rides and treks to suit all levels from beginner

to expert.

Pure Magic

Learn to kitesurf, surf or paddleboard on

Achill Island in Mayo and then stay overnight

at the lodge at the foot of Slievemore moun-

tain, overlooking Keel Lake.

MPETIPAS PHOTO/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Tour the Land

Scattery Island Tour

Take the short boat trip from Kilrush, County

Clare, to this uninhabited island for a walking

tour. You’ll learn about the island’s history

and then have some free time to explore and

enjoy a picnic.

Mungo Murphy’s Seaweed Co

Go on a coastal walk, a wild foraging session

and a tasting tour around Connemara to learn

about the landscape and its edible sea plants,

and to sample local seafood.

Lissadell House

Take a guided tour of this stately home in

Sligo, which was the childhood home of revo-

lutionary and politician Constance Markievicz

and her sister, suffragist Eva Gore-Booth.

Afterwards, stroll the lovely coastal gardens.

Lough Gill Brewery

Learn all about the history of brewing in

County Sligo and how the different flavours

of craft beer are brewed here – with a few

tasting samples along the way.

Electric Escapes

Take your pick of self-guided e-bike tours

around the County Mayo landscape and coast

– this company will provide you with every-

thing from maps and binoculars to picnics.

Flavours of the West

Galway Food Tours

Try everything from local oysters and beers

to local cheeses on this city walk with some

tasty stops. The company also runs whiskey

tours and cycling food tours.

Westport Food and Craft Market

This market sets up every Saturday (from

March) along the riverside on South Mall,

with local baking and organic vegetables,

plus handmade crafts.

Burren Honey

Gorgeous golden organic honey made from

the local wild flowers in the Burren region –

depending on the season, the honey can have

hints of everything from heather and clover to

dandelion and ivy.

Galway Bay Seafoods

Take a two-hour seafood cooking class in

Galway’s docks – choose from a seafood

chowder, lobster, salmon or shellfish work-

shop – and then tuck into your creations

afterwards.

Krēm Gelateria

Local flavours take on sweet form with this

homemade gelato using local milk and cream

– try the brown bread ice cream or Achill

Island Sea Salt caramel flavour. There’s coffee

and crepes, too.

Clifden Farmers Market

There’s everything from the landscape of

Connemara here: organic vegetables, herbs,

breads, pies and even some clothing. Every

Friday morning (June to September).

Aniar Galway

Treat yourself to a Michelin-star meal in

Galway using seasonal, wild and foraged food

from the local landscape and sea in the West

of Ireland. There’s also a cookery school here.

Fresh Galway oysters

MARIAKOVALEVA/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Hazel Mountain Chocolate

A boutique ‘bean to bar’ chocolate factory

in the Burren, which does everything on-site

from roasting the beans to ageing the choco-

late. Take a tour, then stock up in the shop.

Connemara Smokehouse

Visit this gorgeous smokehouse on a small

pier in Connemara and take a tour to find

out how they smoke their delicious salmon,

mackerel, tuna and more. You can even meet

the original kiln ‘Old Smoky’.

Tasty Tipples

Hargadon Bros

This gorgeous old pub in Sligo, a former spirit

merchant and grocer dating to 1868, is now

a gastropub with lots of wood, snugs and old

drawers behind the bar counter.

White Hag Brewery

Look out for this Sligo brewery’s local IPAs and

lagers in pubs and retail outlets. Its beers are

inspired by everything from the Atlantic to lo-

cal wild berries and sour beers are a speciality.

Micil Distillery

Take a tour and tasting here to find out all

about whiskey, poitín (an illicit Irish whiskey)

and gin. The family story goes back to 1848

and to an ancestor of the head distiller,

Pádraic Ó Griallais.

O’Loclainn’s Irish Whiskey Bar

Whiskey lovers will be spoilt for choice in

this tiny pub in Ballyvaughan, County Clare.

Visitors will find shelves full of whiskeys from

all over the world, including many old and rare

bottles, plus lots of atmosphere.

Matt Molloy’s

A lively bar in Westport town, owned by a

member of traditional Irish music band the

Chieftains. There are live music sessions every

night of the week – it gets busy, so arrive early.

Matt Molloy’s

Creative Crafts

Foxford Woollen Mills

Foxford in County Mayo is the place for

everything wool. Browse for soft lambswool

and cashmere throws, and cosy merino wool

scarves in a range of colours.

Spiddal Craft Village

Local artists and craft makers populate this

village just outside Galway. Take a stroll to find

glass, handmade baskets, ceramics, jewellery

and clothing with Irish-language expressions.

The Burren Perfumery

Lotions and potions of all types, all created

with florals from the local landscape. The

small batches of cosmetics and perfumes on

offer are made on-site.

Inis Meáin Knitting Co

The contemporary knitwear collections at this

studio on Inis Meáin island have been inspired

by the landscape, but also by the traditional

stitches and clothing styles of the islanders in

past times.

VINCENT MACNAMARA/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

30

Festival

FEVER

CULTURE | ENTERTAINMENT | ARTS

Culturally and artistically, Ireland has always over-achieved and this is

reflected in a huge range of festivals. And, as all locals will tell you, Paddys really

know how to party. Time your trip with one of the many festivals on offer and

you’re guaranteed a good time.

How to

When to go Most

festivals in Ireland

run between May and

September.

When to book Bigger

festivals (such as Electric

Picnic, Kilkenny Cat

Laughs) usually sell out

fast; tickets generally go

on sale the winter before.

Top tips For camping

festivals, plan to arrive

when the campsite opens

and avoid locations near

the bathrooms. Always

pack a raincoat as Irish

weather is notoriously

changeable.

DEBBIE HICKEY/GETTY IMAGES ©

LONNDUBH/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Electric Picnic Ireland’s largest arts and music festival is a

three-day camping affair, featuring international acts from

across the musical divides, local favourites, up-and-coming

acts, debate and discussion, cinema and tarot card readers.

You can even get married here.

Galway Races Horse racing is synonymous with Ireland and

the week-long Galway Races is Ireland’s longest racing festival.

Food, music and fashion all complement the racing to create

an electric atmosphere that draws people from all over the

world.

Kilkenny Cat Laughs One of Europe’s best-loved comedy

festivals. Running since 1995, it’s hosted by beautiful medieval

Kilenny and features international and domestic artists, from

Eddie Izzard to Tommy Tiernan.

Cork Jazz Festival One of Ireland’s flagship arts and cultural

events attracting global performers and visitors to more than

90 venues. Much like the musical form of jazz itself, the festival

remains fluid, fresh and contemporary.

Fleadh Cheoil na hÉireann The Festival of Music in Ireland is

a week-long street fest of traditional Irish music that has been

running for over 60 years. The host town changes each year;

attendees can wander the in-town locations and listen to the

world’s best traditional Irish musicians.

Open Ear Festival Presenting the best of Irish experimental

music, from avant-garde to electronica. Open Ear is held on

Sherkin Island, in Roaringwater Bay off the coast of Cork,

making it one of Ireland’s most picturesque festivals.

Far left top Electric Picnic Far left

bottom Fleadh Cheoil na hÉireann

Hedonism &

Literary Homage

Leading international

creatives descend on the

rural hinterland of the

Blackstairs Mountains

at the invite of Borris

Festival of Writing

& Ideas. It’s a literary

festival with camping,

a dozen food purveyors

and a wine sommelier in

a 1950s caravan, typically

held every June. Previous

speakers have included

Margaret Atwood, Martin

Amis, David Gilmour and

Cillian Murphy. As night

falls, however, things get a

little more hedonistic. As

co-founder Hugo Jellett

puts it: ‘A little bit of Ire-

land seeps into the bones

of the visitors and they

forget about everything

except right now.’

ULSTER

COASTAL | HISTORY | CULTURE

Experience

Ulster

online

Carrick-A-Rede rope bridge

► Belfast’s Painted Walls

(p210)

► Murals & Street Art

(p212)

► Titanic Belfast (p214)

► Fermanagh’s

Lakelands (p216)

► On Location (p220)

► Heaney’s Homeland

(p222)

► Hiking the Causeway

(p224)

► Daring Leaps and

Scrambles (p226)

► Wild & Wonderful

Donegal (p228)

► Donegal’s Favourite

Beaches (p232)

► Listings (p234)

S-F/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

ULSTER

Trip Builder

Ulster’s spectacular coastline calls out to be explored.

Inland, peaceful loughs offer further opportunities for water

sports and wildlife spotting. The province’s troubled history

is reflected in political murals, but a brighter future shines

through in its rich cultural life.

Explore bookable

experiences in

Ulster online

Leap into the sea on

a Causeway Coast

coasteering session

(p226)

½ day

Hike over hexagonal

rocks on the Cause-

way Coast (p224)

1-2 days

Explore the soaring

cliffs and pristine

beaches of Donegal

(p228)

2 days

Visit the places that

inspired Seamus Heaney’s

poetry, near Bellaghy

(p222)

1 day

Paddle out to Lough

Erne’s mysterious

monastic islands

(p216)

1-2 days

Discover painted

walls and links to

Titanic in Belfast

(p210)

1-2 days

JONATHAN ARBUTHNOT/SHUTTERSTOCK ©,

PAUL J MARTIN/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Practicalities

ARRIVING

Belfast International Airport Express

buses run to Europa Bus Centre (30 to 55

minutes).

George Best Belfast City Airport Buses

run to the city centre (15 minutes).

CONNECT

3G, 4G and 5G

mobile broadband

coverage is good

in towns and cit-

ies, but patchy in

remote rural areas.

MONEY

Northern Ireland

uses sterling. Card

payments are

widely accepted.

County Donegal, in

the Republic, uses

euros.

WHERE TO STAY

Place

Pro/Con

Belfast

Options at all price

points, excellent

transport links and

close to nightlife; can

be noisy.

Derry

Good for culture vul-

tures and convenient

for the Causeway

Coast.

Newcastle

Hikers’ hostels, scenic

campsites and B&Bs

close to the Mournes;

inconvenient for

exploring the north

and west.

GETTING

AROUND

Car The easiest

way to get around.

Roads are good

and traffic is rarely

a problem.

Bus Serve urban

areas and connect

the province’s

main towns, with

less frequent

services to most

rural villages.

Train Link some

towns to Belfast.

EATING & DRINKING

Ulster fry This greasy plate of sausages, bacon,

eggs, potato bread, soda bread and tomato is the

ultimate hangover cure.

St George’s Market This Belfast market sells locally

grown and artisan produce, including traditional

baked goods, fresh fish, and meats and cheeses from

nearby farms.

Must-try tipple

Boatyard double gin (p218)

Best fish and chips

Morton’s (p234)

JAN - MAR

Cool weather, some sunshine

and rain.

APR - JUN

Generally mild and occasionally

hot; head to the coast.

JUL - SEP

Lingering warmer weather;

don’t miss the autumn leaves.

OCT - DEC

Days are short and chilly; time to

get cosy.

TOP: JOERG BEUGE/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

BOTTOM: FRIEMANN/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

31

Belfast’s Painted

WALLS

MURALS | STREET ART | CULTURE

Belfast has a tradition of painting walls that stretches back over 100

years. Murals on the gable ends of terraced houses have been used as a form

of protest, to communicate messages – directed at the local community or

outsiders – and to mark out territory. Recently, a thriving street-art scene has

emerged that steers clear of sectarian imagery.

How to

Getting around From

Donegall Sq, the Glider G1

bus travels west up Divis

St and Falls Rd and east

up Albertbridge Rd to

Connswater.

Wet-weather option

Informative black taxi

tours of the West Belfast

murals can be booked at

the Visit Belfast office on

Donegall Sq N.

Guides Learn about the

street art on a guided

walking tour or check

out the map showing

street-art locations

(seedheadarts.com).

4H4 PHOTOGRAPHY/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

VANDERWOLF IMAGES/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Murals & Street Art

Republican murals West Belfast is the best place to see the

political murals the city is known for. Start with the interna-

tional themes of the Solidarity Wall on Divis St and head west

along Falls Rd towards Cultúrlann McAdam Ó Fiaich cafe and

cultural centre (culturlann.ie), passing various murals includ-

ing a tribute to hunger striker Bobby Sands.

Loyalist murals A Peace Line covered with murals and graffiti

separates the Catholic community of the Falls Rd and the

Protestant community of the Shankill; the gate on N Howard

St is open during the day. Head to Shankill Parade to see King

William III on his white horse and other Loyalist murals. The

area is best avoided at night.

Street art Over the past 10 years, buildings in the Cathedral

Quarter and the city centre have become a canvas for the

work of local and international street artists. Keep an eye out

for pieces as you walk around, and don’t miss Hill St. ‘Belfast

is fertile ground for street art,’ says Adam Turkington of arts

and events company Seedhead Arts. ‘Everybody in this city

viscerally understands the importance of writing on walls, so

when the street art movement starts and people see things on

walls that are not divisive or oppressive, they immediately un-

derstand how positive that is and they celebrate it. It’s about

beautifying the place.’

Far left top Cathedral Quarter tile

mural map Far left bottom Political

mural, Falls Rd

Belfast’s

Best Works

Cathedral Quarter Son

of Protagoras is incredible

and Dance by Candlelight,

the Duel of Belfast is the

most iconic piece in the

city. The annual street art

festival Hit the North is

held on the block around

Belfast’s best pub, the

Sunflower (sunflower

belfast.com).

The Entries A series of

murals inspired by the

history of the entries

(narrow alleyways) and

the anti-establishment

movements that bubbled

up there.

East Belfast Walk up

Newtownards Rd to CS

Lewis Sq to see a number

of pieces, including

Linenopolis and the works

at Vault Artists Studios (vaultartiststudios.com).

Recommended by Adam

Turkington, creative

producer from Belfast @

SeedheadArts

MURALS &

Street Art

01 Solidarity

Murals

Republican sympathy

with international causes

is frequently expressed

in murals, such as this

Solidarity POWs mural

by Danny Devenny and

Carlos Latuff.

02 Bobby Sands

Several murals in West

Belfast commemorate

the Hunger Strike of

1981. Among them is

this image of Bobby

Sands on Falls Rd.

03 Titanic, Ship of

Dreams

In the shadow of the

Harland and Wolff

shipyard cranes, this

mural on Newtownards

Rd recognises the

importance of the

shipbuilding industry in

East Belfast.

04 Dance by

Candlelight

Two men fight over

a dead animal as the

world collapses in Conor

Harrington’s Dance by

Candlelight, the Duel of

Belfast.

05 The Son of

Protagoras

Opposite Belfast’s St

Anne’s Cathedral is

MTO’s image of a boy

holding the dove of

peace that has been

killed by the twin arrows

of religion.

06 Linenopolis

On the Newtownards

Rd, Nomad Clan’s

piece shows a woman

surrounded by flax

flowers, a reference to

the linen industry.

07 Peace Mural

The 12 murals painted

by the Bogside Artists of

Derry between 1994 and

2006 are collectively

known as the People’s

Gallery.

08 Death of

Innocence

The Bogside Artists’

Derry portrait of Annette

McGavigan, who was

killed aged 14 in 1971,

represents all the

children killed during

the Troubles.

09 The Petrol

Bomber

Another People’s Gallery

mural in Derry depicts

a young boy holding a

petrol bomb during the

Battle of the Bogside

in 1969.

10 Bloody Sunday

Here the Bogside Artists

depict a group of men

carrying the body of

Jackie Duddy led by

local priest Father Daly,

in Derry.

01 KALEB KROETSCH/ALAMY STOCK PHOTO ©, 02 PAUL J MARTIN/SHUTTERSTOCK ©, 03 STEPHEN BARNES/TITANIC/ALAMY STOCK PHOTO ©, 04 PHOTOGRAPH

BY RYAN LONEY ©, 05 ISABEL ALBISTON ©, 06 ISABEL ALBISTON ©, 07 GERRY MCLAUGHLIN/ALAMY STOCK PHOTO ©, 08 DAVID COLLINS/ALAMY STOCK PHOTO ©,

09 BENSTEVENS/GETTY IMAGES ©, 10 OLIVIER WULLEN/ALAMY STOCK PHOTO ©

Titanic

Belfast

THE CITY THAT BUILT

THE INFAMOUS SHIP

Belfast’s Harland and

Wolff shipyard cranes

loom over the site

where RMS Titanic

was built. Workers

at the time were

proud of their part in

creating the world’s

most luxurious liner,

and poignantly

unaware of the

tragedy that would

unfold when the ship

set sail in April 1912.

The synopsis of what happened to the Titanic is well

known: a ship lauded as the world’s biggest and best set

off on its maiden voyage amid much fanfare. But on 14

April 1912, in the most notorious nautical disaster of all

time, the Titanic struck an iceberg in the North Atlantic

and sank in the early hours of the following day, resulting

in the deaths of some 1500 passengers and crew (the

exact figure is disputed). Official inquiries into the tragedy

on both sides of the Atlantic did little to dispel speculation

and debate about its causes. Public intrigue was com-

pounded by the glamour of the rich passengers on board

and the role of hubris in the ship’s fate.

But what of the city where the Titanic was built? In

the early 1900s transatlantic passenger liners vied for

custom from wealthy travellers and people emigrating. In

an attempt to outdo the competition, White Star chairman

Bruce Ismay commissioned three luxury liners – designed

for comfort rather than speed – to be constructed at

Belfast’s Harland and Wolff shipyard. In 1909 the keel for

the Titanic was laid alongside sister ship Olympic. At that

time Belfast was a shipbuilding powerhouse, and Harland

and Wolff employed around 14,000 people to work on the

liners.

Susie Millar’s great-grandfather, Tommy Millar, worked

in the Harland and Wolff engine room and later joined the

Titanic’s crew as a deck engineer. He didn’t survive the

voyage, leaving two young sons behind in Belfast. Their

story forms part of her Titanic-themed tours of the city

(titanictours-belfast.co.uk).

‘When I was growing up in Belfast, the Titanic wasn’t

much discussed,’ says Millar. ‘Talking about it was seen as

Left and middle Titanic Belfast

museum Right SS Nomadic

TAKASHI IMAGES/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

bad form or bad luck, even in my family where my father had

lost his grandfather. I knew the story because when I was eight

years old I was given a book to read which my grandfather had

written, about his father sailing away on Titanic, and what had

happened to him. I knew my great-grandfather’s name was on

the Titanic Memorial at City Hall but the anniversary wasn’t

commemorated here in Belfast.’

Regeneration

The turning point came in

the 1990s, when – partly

prompted by the 1997

release of James Cameron’s

movie – there was renewed

interest in the Titanic. ‘Peo-

ple were coming to Belfast

and trying to find where

the Titanic had been built

and there was nothing; they

were wandering across wastelands,’ says Millar. ‘As we came

out of the Troubles and were moving towards the centenary of

Titanic in 2012, there was a realisation that we needed to have

some kind of interpretation here of the back story of the ship.’

Since 2009, the former shipyards have been transformed

into the Titanic Quarter as part of a multimillion-pound regen-

eration project. At its centre is the multimedia museum Titanic

Belfast, which opened in 2012.

‘I love standing on the slipway and imagining the Titanic

leaving with just a few people on board,’ says Millar. ‘There’s so

much connected to Titanic in Belfast that’s authentic.’

‘Talking about it was

seen as bad form

or bad luck, even in

my family where my

father had lost his

grandfather.’

Best Titanic Sights

Titanic Belfast The

multisensory, multimedia

extravaganza at the heart

of Belfast’s Titanic Quarter

(titanicbelfast.com).

SS Nomadic The White

Star steamship that ferried

passengers to Titanic from

Cherbourg Harbour (nomad

icbelfast.com).

Slipways Behind the gleam-

ing edifice of Titanic Belfast

are the slipways where Titanic

and Olympic were built.

Harland and Wolff

Drawing Offices The

designs for Titanic were drawn

up in these offices, now part of

Titanic Hotel (titanichotel

belfast.com).

Titanic’s Dock and Pump-

House Titanic was fitted out

in the vast Thompson Graving

Dock (titanicsdock.com).

Titanic Memorial Monument

and Garden In the grounds of

Belfast City Hall.

ATTILA JANDI/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

RAFAEL.FELIPE/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

32

Fermanagh’s

LAKELANDS

ISLANDS | WATER SPORTS | WILDLIFE

Once home to monasteries

that were leading centres of

learning and innovation, the

islands of Lough Erne are now

occupied mostly by birds and

livestock. The spiritual legacy and

enduring mystery of the islands

hangs like mist over the water.

How to

Getting here Express

buses connect

Enniskillen with Belfast

(130km) and Dublin

(180km), but local bus

services around Lough

Erne are limited.

Boat trips Ferries

to Devenish Island

depart from Trory

jetty; the White Island

ferry leaves from Castle

Archdale marina (castle

archdaleboathire.

com). Erne Water Taxi

(ernewatertaxi.com)

provides transport any-

where on the lough. In

Enniskillen, Erne Tours

(ernetours.com) offers

trips to Devenish Island

and Erne Boat Hire

(erneboathireltd.com)

has self-drive rentals.

Exploring Lough Erne

Unique landscape Upper and Lower Lough

Erne – two freshwater lakes linked by a

river – comprise a mesmerising landscape

of snaking waterways and hidden bays. The

lough is dotted with 154 islands, or drumlins:

little hills formed during the last glacial period,

that are best viewed from the water. As little as

100 years ago these drumlins were home to

a community of some 500 islanders; now all

but two of the islands are uninhabited. ‘When

you’re sitting in the middle of the lake, you can

hear nothing but the sound of birds and water

lapping against the side of the boat,’ says

Barry Flanagan, a local water taxi tour operator.

On the water Options for water sports

abound, from stand-up paddleboarding, ca-

noeing and kayaking to self-drive motorboats

and hydrobikes. Equipment hire is available at

Wildlife Watch

The woodlands, meadows

and parkland of Crom

(nationaltrust.org.uk/crom),

on the shores of Upper Lough

Erne, are home to red squir-

rels, otters, pine martens and

rare species of butterfly. The

Lower Lough is an important

area for curlews, lapwings,

snipe and breeding sandwich

terns. Look out for kingfish-

ers, too.

Left Common curlew Above left Lough

Erne islands Above right Monastery ruins,

Devenish Island (p218)

MEDIAPRODUCTION/GETTY IMAGES ©

SCENICIRELAND.COM/CHRISTOPHER HILL

PHOTOGRAPHIC/ALAMY STOCK PHOTO ©

YEVHEN NOSULKO/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

the Enniskillen Blueway Water Activity Zone,

Castle Archdale marina and Share Discovery

Village. ‘You can easily canoe from Enniskillen

to Devenish Island, which is a lovely half-day

paddle, with the option of going with a guide,’

says Flanagan. ‘Upper Lough Erne is another

fantastic place to go canoeing and kayaking.

It’s quite sheltered because the islands are all

quite close together. You can go from Share

Discovery Village all the way down to Crom.’

Island temple Flanagan also recommends

the Hare Krishna temple (krishnaisland.org)

on the island of Inish Rath. A ferry service

operates on Sundays, when the temple is

open to visitors.

Holy Islands

Monastery On Devenish Island, the remains

of a 6th-century Augustinian monastery, a

near-perfect 12th-century round tower and

a 15th-century high cross are the legacy of

Local Tips

Favourite trail The trail

through Ballintempo Forest

to Aghanaglack Neolithic

tomb; it’s part of the

Marble Arch Caves Global

Geopark. Hiring an e-bike

from Corralea Activity

Centre (corralea.com)

helps with the hills.

Escape the crowds Lough

MacNean is completely

untouched. Head out in a

boat and you’ll likely have

the lake to yourself.

Local produce Fermanagh

Black Bacon (blackbacon.

com) – the pigs are reared

on Inishcorkish Island –

plus sourdough bread from

Joe the Baker (joethebaker.

com), and Boatyard gin

(boatyarddistillery.com) –

its distillery tours get rave

reviews.

Recommended by Barry

Flanagan, owner of Erne

Water Taxi in Enniskillen

@ErneWaterTaxi

a once thriving monastic site where up to 1000

monks lived and worked. ‘The buildings that

remain help tell the story of what the monks’ lives

would have been like, the power they wielded and

their importance in terms of the history of Ireland,’

Flanagan explains. ‘The place has remained un-

changed for hundreds of years, and you really get

a sense of its spiritualness. Walk through the gate

behind the church; from the hilltop there is a great

view of the whole island, down to the lake.’

Mysterious figures Within the ruins of a

12th-century church on White Island sit eight

extraordinary stone figures, thought to date from

the 9th century. Their age and interpretation is

the subject of much debate. ‘Little is known about

their history, but the stones speak for themselves,’

says Flanagan. On Boa Island (accessible by

road) two intriguing stone figures sit in spooky

Caldragh Graveyard. The larger is thought to

date from the early Christian period and could

represent the war goddess Badhbh from Irish

mythology.

Left Lough MacNean Below Caldragh

Graveyard, Boa Island

LEFT: GEORGE MUNDAY/ALAMY STOCK PHOTO ©, RIGHT: SHAWNWIL23/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

On

Location

THE LASTING LEGACY

OF GAME OF THRONES

If Ulster’s rolling

hills, damp forests

and craggy coastline

look familiar it

may be because

you’ve seen them

on screen. Much

of the blockbuster

series Game of

Thrones was filmed

in Northern Ireland,

with locals appearing

as battle scene extras

alongside Jon Snow.

Andrew McClay, a guide for Game of Thrones Tours in Bel-

fast (gameofthronestours.com), has loved the George RR

Martin books since he was 13, and appeared as an extra

on Game of Thrones. ‘I started growing a beard, and made

myself look like I belonged in the show,’ he recalls.

‘My favourite episode to film was Battle of the Bastards,

in Season 6. We had a training week and nobody knew

what was happening, we were just being trained with

swords, shields, bows and arrows. At the end of the week

we found out it was Stark vs Bolton, and we had to line up

to find out which we were. I thought, what am I going to do

if they make me a Bolton? I can’t put on that uniform,’ says

McClay, laughing, ‘But I was house of Stark.’

He also worked in the costume department. ‘They

loved having me there because I knew every piece of

armour in the show, and what belonged to who. So when

I wasn’t an extra I would be in scrubbing helmets. If I

wasn’t killing I was cleaning,’ he says. One of McClay’s

filming areas was Magheramorne Quarry on the Antrim

coast. ‘We did a lot of battle stuff there, including filming

for 55 nights for the Long Night in Season 8,’ he says.

Temperatures got as low as -12°C.

Now McClay uses his experiences on the show to

inform his tours. ‘When I was on set I would ask questions

to people in production about how they did everything and

what special techniques they used – the use of light to

mimic the moon coming down into the cave and stuff like

that.’ Torn up paper was used as snow. ‘The snow would

be everywhere. They would turn on massive fans and then

blow the snow so it exploded into a blizzard and we ran

through it.’

Left Dark Hedges Middle Ballintoy

Harbour Right Inch Abbey

MAX SHEN/GETTY IMAGES ©

The Thrones’ Legacy

The filming of Game of Thrones is estimated to have brought

£251 million to the local economy, and in 2019 the tourist

board suggested that as many as 350,000 visitors per year

had come to Northern Ireland just to visit filming locations

used in the series.

Northern Ireland’s film and TV industry also received a huge

boost from Game of Thrones – the knowledge and experi-

ence gained from working

on such a grand-scale

production has prepared

the local industry to host

future blockbusters. Titanic

Studios was recently used

for the 2021 filming of Dun-

geons & Dragons, with Chris

Pine, Regé-Jean Page and

Hugh Grant, and a number

of TV series have been

filmed in Belfast, including

the BBC series Line of Duty, which wrapped in 2020.

The success of Game of Thrones has helped rebrand North-

ern Ireland, show off its cinematic beauty and introduce it to

a wider public. The area’s popularity with Thrones fans looks

likely to continue, with Linen Mill Studios (linenmillstudios.

com) near Banbridge set to become a Game of Thrones studio

tour.

The filming of Game of

Thrones is estimated

to have brought £251

million to the local

economy

Best Game of

Thrones Locations

Castle Ward The estate was

used as Winterfell in Season 1.

Tollymore Forest Park The

direwolf cubs are found here.

Inch Abbey Robb Stark’s

camp in Season 1.

Cushendun Caves Where

Melisandre gives birth to a

shadow creature.

Ballintoy Harbour Lordsport

on the Iron Island of Pyke,

where Theon and Yara Greyjoy

are reunited.

Larrybane Quarry Renly

Baratheon’s camp in

Stormlands.

Dark Hedges These entwined

beech trees are instantly

recognisable as King’s Rd.

Binevenagh The plateau

was a filming location for

the Dothraki grasslands in

Season 5.

BALLYGALLY VIEW IMAGES/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

THE ESCAPE OF MALEE/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

33

Heaney’s

HOMELAND

LITERATURE | CULTURE | LOUGHS

Seamus Heaney’s poetry is imbued with a sense of place and memories of

the squelching bogs and blackberry picking of his childhood in rural County Derry.

Near Heaney’s first home, an exhibition at Seamus Heaney HomePlace highlights

references in his poetry to the local landscape and real-life characters. In the

surrounding countryside, the places that inspired Heaney wait to be explored.

How to

Getting here Bellaghy

is an easy day trip by

car from Belfast (53km)

or Derry (62km) and

driving is the best way to

explore the surrounding

countryside. Ulster-

bus 212 Express from

Belfast to Derry stops

at Toomebridge (35

minutes) and Castledaw-

son (45 minutes). From

Castledawson, bus 127

towards Ballymena stops

in Bellaghy (10 minutes),

but buses are infrequent.

What to bring Collec-

tions of Heaney’s poetry

to read on location.

ALEXMASTRO/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

JONATHAN ARBUTHNOT/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Heaney’s Inspiration

Culture fix A good place to start is Seamus Heaney Home-

Place (seamusheaneyhome.com), an arts centre in the village

of Bellaghy. The permanent exhibition here places Heaney’s

work in the context of his home and surroundings, with

audio guides making it possible to hear the poems recited by

Heaney himself. ‘Don’t miss Heaney’s duffle coat and his old

school bag,’ says Eugene Kielt, a local tour guide.

Nearby, the sculpture The Turfman (2009) by David Annand

is a visual representation of Heaney’s poem ‘Digging’. On the

outskirts of Bellaghy village, Heaney’s grave can be found at St

Mary’s Church.

Eel fishery ‘Heaney wrote a number of poems about Toome-

bridge and the eel fishery there, including “A Lough Neagh Se-

quence", about the journey of the eels from the Sargasso Sea

to Lough Neagh,’ says Kielt. Across the bridge in Toome, a 2km

walk leads along Toome canal to the shore of Lough Neagh.

Waterside ‘Heaney’s father used to raise cattle on a grassy

area – or strand – between the road and Church Island on

the western shore of Lough Beg,’ Kielt explains. ‘This tranquil

place is the setting for the poem “The Strand at Lough Beg",

dedicated to Heaney’s cousin Colum McCartney, who was

killed during the Troubles.’ From the car park at Drumanee

Rd a boardwalk leads to a wooded area, with views of Church

Island.

Left & Far left top Seamus Heaney

HomePlace Far left bottom Church

Island

Around

Castledawson

Moyola River This

river flowed a few hundred

yards from Mossbawn, the

family farm where Heaney

grew up. It’s mentioned in

‘Moyulla’ and in his essay

’Something to Write Home

About’, in which he talks

about crossing stepping

stones. There’s a riverside

walk in Castledawson.

Lagans Road The country

road that Heaney once

walked down on his way

to school – now named

Creagh Hill – is referenced

in a number of his poems.

Stop for a drink at the Old

Thatch Inn (oldthatchinn.

com) and walk from there.

Recommended by Eugene

Kielt, tour guide and B&B

owner from Magherafelt

(laurel-villa.com)

PAUL MCERLANE/ALAMY STOCK PHOTO ©

34

Hiking the

CAUSEWAY

WALKING | LEGENDS | GEOLOGY

Uneven stacks of hexagonal basalt columns form a causeway into the

ocean, an intriguing natural feature that legend says was the handiwork of

giants. The Giant’s Causeway is the area’s star attraction – and deservedly so –

but there’s more to explore along this spectacular stretch of the north Antrim

coast. So lace up your walking boots and follow our lead.

How to

Getting here/around

Buses and trains connect

Belfast and Coleraine.

Bus 172 and the seasonal

Causeway Rambler ser-

vice (April to September

) run along the coast

between Coleraine and

Ballycastle.

When to go To avoid the

summer crowds, visit in

spring or autumn.

How much Visiting the

Causeway is free. Park

in Bushmills and take

the bus to the Causeway

to avoid paying the

combined car park and

visitor centre fee (adult/

child £13/6.50).

ESTER LO FEUDO/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

LEONID ANDRONOV/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Causeway Walks

Causeway Coast Way This 50km walking trail from Port-

stewart to Ballycastle takes in dramatic cliffs, sandy beaches

and castle ruins as well as the Giant’s Causeway itself (walkni.

com). The whole trail can be covered in two days, but the most

stunning scenery is from Portballintrae to the Giant’s Cause-

way (4.3km; an entirely off-road section taking in wild coast-

line), the Giant’s Causeway to Dunseverick Castle (7.3km), and

Dunseverick Castle to Ballintoy Harbour (7.8km; check the

tide times to avoid high tide at White Park Bay).

‘As you walk towards Dunseverick Castle, there’s a bay

called Port Moon and a little fisherman’s bothy that sits in the

bay. It’s just the most amazing view when you come round

the corner and look down,’ says Mark Rodgers, a local guide.

‘If you know what you’re doing you can get down the pathway

into Port Moon and you can actually stay in the bothy as well.’

Contact the Causeway Coast Kayak Association (CCKA) for

Port Moon bothy bookings.

Heritage railway A walking and cycling path runs alongside

the tracks of the Giant’s Causeway and Bushmills Railway, a

seasonal, narrow-gauge railway, which follows the route of a

19th-century tourist tramway for 3km from Bushmills to the

Giant’s Causeway Visitor Experience. The walk crosses the

River Bush and there are pretty views across the sand dunes.

Causeway trails Several waymarked trails lead directly to the

stones or over the clifftops.

Far left top Giant’s Causeway Far

left bottom Giant’s Causeway and

Bushmills Railway

Local

Perspective

Favourite spot Port-

naboe, which means ‘Bay

of Cows’. There’s a real

sense of calmness about

it. Some of the fishermen

and old guides who

worked on the causeway

had their ashes scattered

there, and I feel very con-

nected to that place.

Favourite time of year I

like September and Oc-

tober. There’s something

very special about the

colours at that time of

year – the golds, browns

and reds. The site’s

practically empty and you

can watch the sunset at

the Causeway with a drop

of Bushmills whiskey.

Recommended by Mark

Rodgers, a guide from

Portrush (dalriadaking

domtours.co.uk)

35

Daring Scrambles

& LEAPS

COASTEERING | ADVENTURE | MARINE LIFE

The rugged shoreline of the Causeway Coast seems tailor-made for

coasteering, an adrenaline-packed adventure activity that involves scrambling over

basalt, swimming into sea caves, bobbing around on the swell in rock pools and

jumping off sea stacks. It’s an exhilarating way to explore this beautiful location,

that even the less daring can enjoy. No previous experience or special skills required.

How to

Where to do it Causeway

Coasteering (causeway

coasteering.com) in

Portrush and Coasteering

NI (coasteeringni.co.uk)

in Ballintoy offer activities

on the Causeway Coast.

When to go Summer

offers calm, clear water

and far-reaching views.

In autumn the sea is

still warm. The churning

winter seas and bracing

winds appeal only to the

super keen.

How much Around £40

per person for three

hours, including winter

wet suits, buoyancy aids

and helmets.

GARETH MCCORMACK/ALAMY STOCK PHOTO ©

STEPHEN BARNES/SPORT/ALAMY STOCK PHOTO ©

Coastal locations A number of different locations are used

for coasteering around the Causeway Coast. ‘Each one has its

own particular charm,’ says Matt Wright of Causeway Coast-

eering. ‘There are beautiful limestone caves around White-

rocks, and we go to a spot near Dunluce Castle. The headland

at Runkerry is exceptional – there are three massive caves

there – but it’s an exposed area so we only go there when

there’s no swell. And occasionally we use Ballintoy, Portbrad-

den and Kinbane Castle.’

Coasteering ‘We start with some small jumps and as the

session goes on the jumps will get higher – possibly as high

as 12m, but not everybody does those,’ says Wright. ‘If there’s

a bit of swell in the water, which there usually is on the north

coast, the whole coastline comes alive with waves washing up

and down the rocks, creating pools where the waves wash in

and then suck back out again.’

The activity also involves low-level rock climbing and scram-

bling. ‘There are no harnesses involved. You’re never really

more than your own body height above the water,’ says Bobby

Marno, lead guide at Coasteering NI. ‘There are days when

the water’s like glass. Standing on the top of the sea stacks,

you can see clearly down to the seaweed and the sand on the

bottom, and spot the odd dogfish or ray swimming about.’

Left Kinbane Castle Far left top

Coasteering group, Causeway Coast

Far left bottom Wetsuits drying,

Ballintoy

Local Tips

Marine life We’re always

watching out for dolphins

and porpoises, and we

see seals quite a bit. Every

now and then we spot

basking sharks. I’ve never

seen an orca, but they do

occasionally visit here.

There are also sea urchins

and sea anemones.

Edible seaweed When

we’re out coasteering we

nibble quite a few different

types of seaweed. There’s

one that has a sort of

garlicky, truffle taste, it’s

really surprising.

Local restaurant

Native Seafood & Scran

(nativeseafood.co.uk)

in Coleraine. They’re

opening a restaurant in

Portrush, too.

Recommended by Matt

Wright of Causeway Coast-

eering (causewaycoast

eering.com) in Portrush

SHAWNWIL23/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

36

Wild & Wonderful

DONEGAL

ATLANTIC COAST | REMOTE | ADVENTURE

With rugged coastal

scenery, sandy beaches, inland

forests and mountains, Donegal

is the place to explore Ireland’s

wild side, to try new adventures

and to experience the Atlantic

Ocean’s power. Explore the area

by walking, driving the headlands,

surfing or kayaking.

How to

Getting around

Explore by car or bike,

so you can stop off for

walks, picnics, photos

and adventures.

When to go The best

time to visit is between

May and September,

when everything is

open. Weather can be

unpredictable, so bring

warm layers and a

waterproof jacket.

Remote sleeps For un-

beatable sea views, stay

at a former lighthouse

keeper’s cottage such

as Fanad Head or St

John’s Point (great

lighthouses.com).

Coastal Headlands

With 1134km of coastline, at the start of> Ire-

land’s Wild Atlantic Way, Donegal has plenty

of rugged headlands to drive, walk or climb,

for the best Atlantic and coastal views. There

are long, golden beaches too – perfect for

walks, picnics, swimming or surfing.

Drive a loop of the Fanad Peninsula, passing

Rathmullan, and walk the golden sands or pic-

nic at Ballymastocker Bay or Ballyhiernan

Bay, visiting Fanad Head for a tour of Fanad

Lighthouse.

There’s a bridge over to neighbouring Ros-

guill Peninsula – don’t miss the 11km Atlantic

Drive for stunning views of rocky headlands

and beaches, perhaps stopping at Downings

village, which overlooks Sheephaven Bay, for

refreshments.

Gaeltacht Culture

The Gaeltacht areas in Done-

gal, including on the islands,

are where you will find the

Irish language spoken and

can experience traditional

Irish culture like music,

sean-nós (‘old-style’ songs)

and dance. There are live

traditional music sessions in

many pubs and some areas

have their own dance, such

as the ‘Waves of Tory’ reel on

Tory Island.

Left Malin Head (p230) Above left Fanad

Lighthouse Above right St John’s Point

Lighthouse

LUKASSEK/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

HARALD SCHMIDT/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

THOMAS JANISCH/GETTY IMAGES ©

On the Inishowen Peninsula, you can walk

around Malin Head, Ireland’s most northerly

point, for sea air and views – if the landscape

looks otherworldly, you might recognise it

from some of Star Wars: The Last Jedi, which

was filmed here as well as around Skellig

Michael in Kerry (p168).

Atlantic Waves

If you really want to get up close and personal

with the Wild Atlantic Way, take to the waves

with a surf school or rent a board at beaches

in Bundoran, Rossnowlagh and Dunfanaghy;

jump into a sea kayak to marvel at caves and

coves on the Inishowen Peninsula with Inish

Adventures; or climb a sea stack with Unique

Ascent.

Take a boat cruise on Donegal Bay or

Lough Swilly sea inlet, or search for undersea

shipwrecks on a diving trip with Mevagh Dive

Centre. On land, you can try rock climbing,

horse riding or cycling.

Donegal’s Islands

Tory (Toraigh) Relaxed,

rugged and remote – walk

a loop along the cliffs and

admire views of the main-

land. Look out for puffins

and seals. Don’t miss the

island’s traditional music,

singing, dancing and local

myths and legends.

Arranmore (Árainn Mhór)

Great for day trips or short

breaks for nature hikes,

fishing, cycling and kayak-

ing. For beaches, try Aphort

or Leabh Gharbh.

Gola (Oileán Ghabhla)

Just 1km off the coast,

with scattered old building

remains. Try walking or bird-

watching, visit sandy beach-

es like Tráigh na Béicí, or

kayak or paddleboard with

Gola Island Adventures.

Recommended by Henry

Doohan, tour guide, donegal

tourguide.ie

@donegaltourguide

Wildlife Spotting

Glenveagh National Park covers 160sq km and is

a good place to spot wildlife – get a map and take

one of the longer hikes away from the lake paths

and you might spot some wild red deer. Look out

for peregrine falcons and golden eagles, too.

You can also take a night-time walk with a bat

detector, to observe signs of one of the many

species of bat in the national park.

Off the coastal headlands of Donegal, dolphins,

whales and basking sharks are often spotted,

as well as seals. Seabirds like puffins, razorbills,

fulmars and kittiwakes also arrive seasonally to

breed – mostly in spring and summer.

Scenic Trails

For walking and hiking, Donegal is full of looped

trails, through woodland and forest parks, along

cliffs, beaches and shorelines.

If you have a head for heights, brave the narrow

One Man’s Path loop at Sliabh Liag for spectacular

views down the 596m-high sea cliffs, or do an early

morning climb to the top of Mt Errigal (751m). Both

hikes take three to four hours each to complete.

For a gentler walk, take the lake paths at Glen-

veagh National Park, or the beach path at Ards

Forest Park to enjoy a peaceful stroll along the

dunes and boardwalk before exploring the forest

trails on the way back.

Left Tory Island ferry Below Mt Errigal

LEFT: DESIGN PICS INC/ALAMY STOCK PHOTO ©, RIGHT: IANMITCHINSON/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

DONEGAL’S

Favourite Beaches

01 Ballymastocker

Bay

Beautiful long stretch of

golden sand with scenic

views from the Fanad

Peninsula across Lough

Swilly to the neighbour-

ing Inishowen Peninsula.

02 Culdaff Beach

Sandy Blue Flag beach

on the east side of the

Inishowen Peninsula,

with interesting rocky

outcrops at one end.

03 Port Bán Beach

A beautiful sheltered

white crescent beach

near Dunree Head on

Inishowen, reached by a

grassy track.

04 Murvagh Beach

Near Rossnowlagh

Beach and Donegal

town, another Blue

Flag spot, with dunes

that lead in to Murvagh

Forest.

05 Narin Beach

Sand dunes run along

the back of this white

sandy Blue Flag beach

at Dunmore Head and

its neighbouring beach

at Portnoo.

06 Marble Hill

Strand

Tucked away in

Sheephaven Bay, this

is a popular Blue Flag

beach for holidaymak-

ers in Dunfanaghy. The

dunes are home to

various wildflowers.

07 Rossnowlagh

Beach

Stretching for 4km,

with cliffs at one end,

this beach is ideal for

walking and is one of

Donegal’s best surf

spots for beginners.

08 Kinnagoe Bay

A secluded beach on Ini-

showen that is sheltered

by a hill. Just offshore,

there’s the shipwreck of

a 1588 Spanish Armada

ship.

09 Drumnatinny

Beach

Walk through the dunes

to reach this lovely long

stretch of sand behind

Falcarragh village,

known locally as the

‘back strand’.

01 Yevhen Nosulko/shutterstock ©, 02 Lukassek/shutterstock ©, 03 Colin Majury/shutterstock ©, 04 :Rick Buettner / Alamy Stock Photo ©,

05 Lukassek/GETTY IMAGES © 06 Scenicireland.com/Christopher Hill Photographic/Alamy Stock Photo ©, 07 arkanex/GETTY IMAGES ©, 08 Lukassek/

SHUTTERSTOCK ©, 09 magann/getty images ©

Listings

BEST OF THE REST

Cliffs & Caves

Gobbins

An exhilarating guided walk along a cliff path,

which involves navigating through a series

of tubular bridges, tunnels and caves. It’s in

Islandmagee in County Antrim.

Carrick-a-Rede Rope Bridge

This narrow rope bridge spans the 20m-chasm

between sea cliffs and a small island, near

Ballycastle on the north Antrim coast.

Marble Arch Caves

A tour of these subterranean caverns includes

a boat trip along an underwater river to view

the picturesque formations of the Calcite Cra-

dle. Near Enniskillen in County Fermanagh.

Green Spaces

Tollymore Forest Park

This scenic forest park near Newcastle offers

fabulous walks and bike rides along the River

Shimna and across the northern slopes of the

Mourne Mountains.

Cave Hill Country Park

Waymarked trails lead to the summit of this

north Belfast landmark; the view takes in the

city, Belfast Lough and the Mourne Mountains.

Slieve Gullion Forest Park

In south Armagh, this forest park has an excel-

lent children’s adventure playground and sto-

rybook trail. A scenic drive leads to the starting

point for a hike up Slieve Gullion (573m).

Botanic Gardens

The showpiece at this pretty Belfast park is

the magnificent Palm House greenhouse, a

masterpiece in cast iron and curvilinear glass.

Kilbroney Park

The views over Carlingford Lough from

Rostrevor forest are simply spectacular. The

region’s best downhill mountain-biking trails

can be found here, too.

Hill Climbs

Slieve Donard

The Mourne Mountains’ highest peak (853m)

is a straightforward climb, with far-reaching

views from the top.

Ciulcagh Mountain

A boardwalk over blanket bog forms part of

the trail up Fermanagh’s highest hill (666m).

The final ascent involves climbing stairs.

Slemish Mountain

Near Ballymena in County Antrim is the dis-

tinctive hill (438m) where a young St Patrick

is said to have worked as a shepherd.

Waterside Bites

Morton’s Fish & Chips £

Boats unload the daily catch of cod, haddock,

scallops and scampi right alongside this

harbourside hut in Ballycastle.

Pyke ‘n’ Pommes POD £

Locally sourced street food – tacos with

Tequila-battered haddock, Porter-braised

brisket or battered cauliflower; Wagyu beef

burgers – served at a riverside shipping con-

tainer in Derry.

Brunel’s £££

On the Newcastle seafront in County Down,

chef Paul Cunningham offers bold, creative

and beautifully presented plates starring local

ingredients.

Whiskey

Old Bushmills Distillery

Tours of the world’s oldest licensed distillery

include a sample of Bushmills whiskey, made

with Irish barley and water from a tributary

of the River Bush.

Pints & Trad Sessions

Leo’s Tavern

The live sessions at Leo’s are legendary, with

musicians performing nightly during the

summer and regularly throughout the year.

It’s in the Gaeltacht district of Gweedore in

County Donegal.

Crawford’s Bar

The County Down village of Rostrevor is

known for its folk music; the Fiddler’s Green

International Festival is held here in July.

Crawford’s Bar hosts regular sessions and

stocks local craft beers and spirits.

Culture

Ulster Museum

Highlights here include the Armada Room,

with artefacts retrieved from the 1588 wreck

of the Spanish galleon Girona, and the

2500-year-old Egyptian mummy Takabuti.

Located in Belfast’s Queen’s Quarter.

Ulster American Folk Park

This open-air museum in County Tyrone tells

the story of emigration from Ulster to Ameri-

ca, recreating life on both sides of the Atlantic

with original Irish cottages and New England

log cabins.

Tower Museum

Inside a replica 16th-century tower house in

Derry, this museum has exhibitions on the Ar-

mada shipwreck and the story of Derry, from

St Colmcille to the Battle of the Bogside.

Dunluce Castle

St Patrick Centre

In Downpatrick, near St Patrick’s grave, the

‘Ego Partricus’ (I am Patrick) multimedia exhi-

bition tells the story of the saint’s life.

Glebe Gallery

The late artist Derek Hill’s Donegal home is

filled with works by Tory Island artists as well

as pieces by Picasso, Hokusai and Kokoshka.

Lush gardens, too.

Castles & Country Houses

Dunluce Castle

The atmospheric ruins of Dunluce Castle sit

perched atop basalt cliffs in County Antrim.

The oldest parts date back to 1480.

Florence Court

Set in expansive gardens and wooded grounds,

with 15km of walking and cycling trails, this

grand property near Enniskillen is known for its

rococo plasterwork and antique furniture.

Castle Ward

On the shores of Strangford Lough sits this

grand house with an unusual quirk: the

front-facing facade is neoclassical to please

Lord Bangor, while the rear facade is Gothic to

please his wife.

Scan for things to see, do

and try in Ulster

RAINBOW79/GETTY IMAGES ©

Practicalities

ARRIVING

GETTING

AROUND

SAFE TRAVEL

238

240

242

MONEY

RESPONSIBLE

TRAVEL

ACCOMMODATION

243

244

246

ESSENTIALS

LANGUAGE

248

250

Right Dunquin, Dingle Peninsula (p153)

MAYDAYS/GETTY IMAGES ©

EASY STEPS FROM THE AIRPORT TO THE CITY CENTRE

Dublin is the primary point of entry for most visitors to Ireland. Located 13km north of the city centre,

the airport has two terminals: most international flights (including most US flights) use Terminal 2;

Ryanair and select others use Terminal 1. Both terminals have the usual selection of pubs, restaurants,

shops, ATMs and car hire desks. You can also fly into Shannon or Belfast.

AT THE AIRPORT

SIM cards Can

be purchased for

unlocked phones

from the SimLocal

stands or vending

machines in

WHSmith

(Terminal 1

Arrivals), Wrights

(between Terminal

1 and 2) and Spar

(Terminal 2).

Shops are open

6am to 10pm

every day and

vending machines

are accessible

24/7.

International

Currency

Exchange

ICE outlets are

located in Terminal

1 Arrivals (5.30am

to midnight) and

baggage hall

(7am to 7pm)

and Terminal

2 baggage hall

(4.30am to

10.30pm). Rates

are better at

banks in the city.

WI-FI

Free unlimited wi-fi is available

throughout Terminals 1 and 2. Select the

Dublin Airport Wi-Fi network.

ATMS

Machins linked to Cirrus, Maestro or Plus

are available in Terminals 1 and 2.

CHARGING STATIONS

Available in the seating areas of airside

Departures, but not in Arrivals.

CUSTOMS REGULATIONS

Duty-free For duty-free goods from outside the EU, limits include 200 cigarettes, 1L of

spirits or 2L of wine, 60mL of perfume and 250mL of eau de toilette.

Tax and duty paid Amounts that officially constitute personal use include 3200

cigarettes (or 3kg of tobacco) and either 10L of spirits, 90L of still wine or 110L of beer.

SKORZEWIAK/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

GETTING TO THE CITY CENTRE

Aircoach offers three routes to more than

20 city destinations. The Aircoach stop

is at zone 11 in Terminal 1, a two-minute

walk from the Arrivals area at Terminal

1. Purchase tickets from staff at the bus

stops or from the driver using cash or

contactless payment.

Airlink Express Coach operates two

routes, the 747 to Heuston Rail Station

and the 757 to Camden St. Pick up is

directly outside the Arrivals halls of

Terminals 1 and 2. Pay with exact cash or

use a Leap card.

Local Dublin buses 16, 41 and 102 all run

to various points in the city centre. Bus

stops are on the far side of the car park

outside Terminal 1. Pay with exact cash

or use a Leap card. Space for luggage is

limited.

HOW MUCH

FOR A

Taxi

€25-30

45min

Dublin Bus

€3.30

45-60min

Aircoach

€7

30-60min

Taxi

The pick-up

areas are directly

outside the

Arrivals concourse

of both terminals.

Note that not all

taxis accept credit

cards.

Plan Your Journey

Download the

National Journey

Planner app to

figure out the

most convenient

way to get

wherever you want

to go in the city.

Visitor Leap Card

Purchase from the Bus & Travel

Information Desk (Terminal 1 Arrivals) for

unlimited travel on Dublin Bus (including

Airlink airport bus services), Luas and

DART.

Choose from 1/3/7 days for

€10/19.50/40.

Top-up with additional time periods

(1, 3, or 7 days) at any Leap outlet.

OTHER POINTS OF ENTRY

Inbound ferries arrive at the Dublin Port Terminal and are met by timed, express bus services that run

to Westmoreland St in the city centre. Sail & Rail routes between Dublin and London allow travellers to

combine bus, ferry and train tickets for as little as €35 one way.

Car ferries to Belfast from Liverpool (England) and Cairnryan (Scotland) dock at Victoria Terminal, while

services from the Isle of Man arrive at Albert Quay. Both docks are less than 5km from the city centre and

shuttles are available for foot passengers.

Belfast’s International Airport is 30km northwest of the city. Taxis pick-up outside the Arrivals gate.

Expect to pay around £25; it takes 20 to 40 minutes. Buy tickets from the machines at the stops before

boarding Metro or Glider buses to the city centre.

Shannon Airport in County Clare is a one-hour drive from Galway City by car. It services numerous airport

in North America and has US pre-clearance facilities.

TRANSPORT TIPS TO HELP YOU GET AROUND

The best way to explore Ireland is by car, which allows you

to travel at your own pace and stop at scenic spots. Public

transport between major urban centres is efficient and rea-

sonably priced, and smaller towns and villages along those

routes are well served. However, services to destinations not

on major routes are less frequent and often impractical.

CAR

Driving is the most

convenient way

to explore Ireland

and cars can be

hired in every

major town and

city. Most cars are

manual; automatic

cars are more

expensive. If driv-

ing into Northern

Ireland make sure

your insurance

covers journeys to

the North.

BUS

Buses are the

most cost-effec-

tive way to get

around. Private

bus companies

compete with

Bus Éireann in

the Republic and

also run where

the national buses

are irregular or

absent. Ulsterbus

operates routes in

Northern Ireland.

CAR RENTAL

PER DAY

from €15

Petrol approx

€1.43/litre

Tolls

€1.40 to €3.10

Ireland’s rural roads can be steep, narrow and winding.

Single-track roads with blind bends can be challenging, even

without the hazard of wandering sheep. If you see an oncom-

ing car look for a passing place to pull into; the etiquette is for

the car nearest to a passing place to reverse (thank the driver

with a wave). Be aware that in the hills mist can roll in quickly,

leading to poor visibility.

BOAT

Boats serve Ireland’s offshore islands.

Ferries also operate across rivers, inlets and

loughs, providing useful shortcuts, particu-

larly for cyclists. Scenic cruises operate on

many of Ireland’s loughs and waterways.

TRAIN

Ireland’s rail network is limited but trains

are a quick and comfortable option for

certain intercity routes, including Belfast

to Dublin and Dublin to Cork. Services

are operated by Iarnród Éireann (Irish

Rail) in the Republic and NI Railways in

Northern Ireland. For the best fares, book

in advance.

DRIVING ESSENTIALS

Drive on the left,

overtake on the right.

At roundabouts, give

way to the right.

Drivers must be at

least 17 years old.

The speed limit

is 120km/h on

motorways (70mph

in Northern Ireland);

50km/h (30mph in

Northern Ireland) in

urban areas unless

otherwise stated.

The legal alcohol limit

is 50mg of alcohol per

100ml of blood.

CYCLING

Ireland’s compact size and scenic landscape

makes cycling an appealing way to get around.

The downsides are unreliable weather and narrow

country roads. A network of signed, off-road and

low-traffic cycle routes is being developed and

includes several ‘greenways’ along former railway

tracks. Bike rental is readily available in tourist

centres. There are bike-share schemes in Dublin

and Belfast.

TOLLS

Charged on several motorways, usually

by machine or booth. The M50 uses

barrier-free electronic tolling, which

uses cameras to record vehicle number

plates. Pay tolls online by 8pm the fol-

lowing day. Some car rental companies

include tolls in the fee.

SCENIC ROUTES

If you’re driving, get off the main roads

when you can: some of Ireland’s most

stunning scenery is best enjoyed on the

secondary or tertiary roads that wind

their way through standout photo ops.

KNOW YOUR CARBON FOOTPRINT

Driving from Dublin to Cork would emit about 50kg of carbon dioxide. A bus would emit 26kg

for the same distance, per passenger. A train would emit about 10kg.

There are a number of carbon calculators online that allow you to estimate the carbon

emissions generated by your journey.

ROAD DISTANCE CHART (KM)

DANGERS, ANNOYANCES & SAFETY

Ireland is safer for travellers than most countries in Europe, but it’s wise to keep

up the same level of caution as you would back home. Luckily, natural disasters are

extremely rare, and the island is even free of snakes.

THEFT & FRAUD

Don’t leave anything visible in your car when you park. Skim-

ming at ATMs can be a problem: watch out for machines that

have been tampered with and be sure to cover the keypad with

your hand when you input your PIN.

IRISH TOURIST ASSISTANCE SERVICES

ITAS (itas.ie) provides help and support to people who are

victims of crime while travelling in Ireland. The best place to

report a crime is the nearest Garda (police) station (PSNI station

in Northern Ireland). Ask for an incident report, usually required

for insurance claims and emergency travel documents.

NORTHERN IRELAND

Sectarian tensions don’t often cause problems for visitors these

days, but keep an eye on the news and avoid any areas where

riots or clashes might occur. Bear in mind that religion and

politics can be touchy topics of conversation. It’s best to avoid

Northern Ireland during the Orange Order parades of 12 July,

when tensions run high.

MIDGES

These annoying little biting insects are

most active between May and Septem-

ber, particularly in the boggy areas of

Connemara and Donegal, and often

appear in swarms around dusk. Luckily,

they don’t carry diseases.

PHARMACIES

For minor, self-limiting illnesses, phar-

macists can give valuable advice and sell

over-the-counter medication. They can

also advise when more specialised help

is required.

LEGAL MATTERS

Possession of a

small amount of

cannabis usually

attracts a caution;

other drugs are

treated more

seriously. If you

are arrested, you

have the right to

contact a lawyer

or your embassy.

INSURANCE

EU citizens with

a European

Health Insurance

Card (EHIC) are

covered for most

medical care in

the Republic. In

Northern Ireland

everyone receives

free emergency

treatment at hos-

pital accident and

emergency (A&E)

departments.

CAAMALF/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

STEFANIEMUELLER/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

QUICK TIPS TO HELP YOU MANAGE YOUR MONEY

CREDIT CARDS

Visa and MasterCard credit and debit

cards are widely accepted. American

Express is only accepted by major

chains. Chip-and-PIN is the norm for card

transactions; the limit for contactless

card payments is €50 (£45 in Northern

Ireland). Smaller businesses prefer debit

cards (and some will charge a fee for

credit cards), and a small number of rural

B&Bs only take cash.

CURRENCY

The Republic of

Ireland uses the

euro (€). Northern

Ireland uses

pounds sterling

(£), though

the euro is also

accepted in many

places.

CHANGING

MONEY

The best exchange

rates are at banks,

though bureaux de

change and other

exchange facilities

usually open for

longer hours.

CURRENCY

Euro

HOW MUCH

FOR A

Pint of Guinness

€5

Coffee

€3.50

Dinner for two

€40

DISCOUNTS & SAVINGS

Dublin Pass (dublinpass.com) Includes a hop-on, hop-off bus

tour, free entry to 30 attractions and discounted entry to 20

more.

Heritage Card (heritageireland.ie) Includes free entry to all

Office of Public Works–run heritage sites. It can be a good deal

for families, depending on how many sites you plan to visit.

ATMS

All banks have ATMs linked to international

systems such as Cirrus, Maestro or Plus.

Transactions incur currency-conversion

fees, and credit cards can incur immediate

cash-advance interest-rate charges.

TIPPING

Tipping 10% to

15% is customary

in restaurants.

Sometimes a

service charge is

added to the bill,

in which case a

further tip is not

necessary. Tipping

is not expected in

pubs or bars.

EXCHANGE

RATES

If offered a choice

of currencies

when paying by

card, choose to

pay in the local

currency (euros in

the Republic and

pounds sterling in

Northern Ireland)

rather than your

home currency.

TAXES & REFUNDS

In the Republic, most goods come with

value-added tax (VAT) of 23%, which

non-EU residents can claim back if the

store in which the goods are purchased

operates the Retail Export Scheme.

In Northern Ireland the VAT rate is 20%.

Non-EU and non-UK residents may be

able to claim back VAT under the Tax-Free

Shopping refund scheme. However, you

cannot get a VAT refund if you travel from

Northern Ireland to Britain, regardless of

where you live.

RESPONSIBLE TRAVEL

Tips to leave a lighter footprint, support local and have a positive impact on local communities.

ON THE ROAD

Look for companies that use

smaller vehicles when taking

tours to remote, rural areas.

Large coaches can clog up narrow

country roads.

Pay to use the car park at tourist

spots and don’t park on the roadside

instead. Doing so can cause

accidents and traffic delays.

Wild camping in camper vans is

not permitted in Ireland. Ask the

landowner’s permission to stay

overnight or find a legal stopover

for your camper van on total

campingireland.ie/legal-

stopovers.

Sustainable Travel Ireland

awards bronze, silver and gold

certification to sustainable hotels,

tour operators, attractions and

restaurants. Certified businesses

are listed on sustainabletravel

ireland.ie.

Recycling is available for many

forms of household waste,

including plastic, cardboard and

cans. Look for recycling bins in

self-catering accommodation.

Food waste is also separated from

non-organic waste in most of

Ireland. See mywaste.ie.

GIVE BACK

Clean up the coast Join a beach clean-up organised by Clean

Coasts (cleancoasts.org).

Drop off any leftover supplies to food banks Many supermarkets

have collection points for donated items near the tills. Donations of

non-food items, such as toiletries and household cleaners, are also

encouraged.

Food Cloud is a social enterprise that helps reduce food waste in

Ireland. Volunteers can help with gleaning: collecting leftover crops

from farmers’ fields after the commercial harvest (food.cloud).

Find out the latest ways to take action for Irish wildlife or make

a donation. The Irish Wildlife Trust campaigns for the continued

protection of Ireland’s wildlife and manages a number of wildlife

reserves (iwt.ie).

IRENE FOX/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

DOS & DON’TS

Do behave respectfully at nation-

al monuments and be sure not to

climb on or deface ancient sites.

Don’t bring up the subject of local

politics or religion unless you

are sure the topic won’t cause

offence, particularly in the North.

Do be sensitive and tactful when

discussing Irish history.

LEAVE A SMALL FOOTPRINT

Stick to the trail when hiking. Be especially

mindful not to stray off boardwalks, which are

often constructed to protect Ireland’s areas

of blanket bog.

Carry reusable shopping bags. By law,

Irish shops must charge for carrier bags, to

encourage people to reuse them.

Many coffee shops offer discounts if you

bring your own reusable cup.

Biodegradable waste can be harmful to

wildlife and the local ecosystem – remember

to dispose of it properly.

SUPPORT LOCAL

Design Ireland highlights independent Irish design-

ers and makers. Their handmade arts and crafts

make perfect souvenirs (designireland.ie).

Craft NI does the same for Northern Ireland

(craftni.org).

Eat locally. Buy fresh produce and artisan goods

at local farmers markets and farm shops. The Irish

Organic Association has a list of organic farm shops

(irishorganicassociation.ie).

CLIMATE CHANGE & TRAVEL

It’s impossible to ignore the impact we have when travelling, and the impor-

tance of making changes where we can. Lonely Planet urges all travellers to

engage with their travel carbon footprint. There are many carbon calcula-

tors online that allow travellers to estimate the carbon emissions generated

by their journey; try resurgence.org/resources/carbon-calculator.html.

Many airlines and booking sites offer travellers the option of offsetting the

impact of greenhouse gas emissions by contributing to climate-friendly

initiatives around the world. We continue to offset the carbon footprint of all

Lonely Planet staff travel, while recognising this is a mitigation more than a

solution.

RESOURCES

iwt.ie

sustainabletravelireland.ie

npws.ie

supportlocalni.com

4H4 PHOTOGRAPHY/SUTTERSTOCK ©

UNIQUE AND LOCAL WAYS TO STAY

Ireland has a range of accommodation options to suit every

budget, from hiker hostels to family-run B&Bs and luxury

hotels; look for rooms with views of Ireland’s scenic landscape

and coastline. Glamping has become popular in recent years,

with timber pods offering protection against the rain.

HOW MUCH

FOR A

Glamping pod

€80

Castle hotel

€180

Horse-drawn

caravan

€230

CASTLES, TOWERS

& GATE LODGES

If the romantic in you dreams

of staying in a castle, Ireland

might be the place to live out

your fantasies. Many of the

country’s historic castles are

now hotels, and luxurious

ones at that – check out Bally-

nahinch Castle in Connemara,

Belleek Castle in County

Mayo and Lough Eske Castle

in County Donegal. A number

of castles, towers and gate

lodges contain self-catering

apartments available to rent

as holiday lets; most are in su-

perb locations with expansive

manicured grounds.

CABIN CRUISERS

& CANAL BARGES

A lovely way to

explore Ireland’s

inland waterways

is to hire a live-

aboard motorboat

or canal barge.

The Shannon-Erne

Waterway is a

peaceful place for

a barge holiday. In

County Ferman-

agh, a number

of companies

offer self-drive,

liveaboard cabin

cruisers for explor-

ing Lough Erne. No

previous boating

experience is

required.

LIGHTHOUSES

Spectacular sea views, wild scenery and excellent

birdwatching are just some of the advantages of

spending the night in a lighthouse. Several light-

houses in Ireland are available to rent as holiday

lets, including the remote Fanad Head Light-

house in Donegal, Wicklow Head Lighthouse, and

St John’s Point lough erne Lighthouse in County

Down (greatlighthouses.com).

DESIGN PICS INC/ALAMY STOCK PHOTO ©

PETER KROCKA/SHUTTERSTOCK1 ©

GLAMPING PODS & YURTS

If Ireland’s wet weather puts a

dampener on the idea of a night

under the canvas, a glamping

pod might be the perfect alter-

native. These timber pods vary

from bare-bones bunks (bring

your own sleeping bag) to luxuri-

ous offerings with beds, cooking

facilities and even bathrooms.

The best are positioned to make

the most of their surroundings,

and often offer outstanding

views. A number of places in

Ireland also offer overnight stays

in yurts, often with wood-

burning stoves, king-sized beds

and furniture. Glamping is popu-

lar, so book well in advance.

TREE HOUSES & FOREST

BUBBLE DOMES

For something different, how

about a night in the trees? Some

are luxurious offerings with hot

tubs and mod cons, while others

are more basic. The transparent

bubble domes at Finn Lough (fin-

nlough.com) in Fermanagh make

it possible to stargaze from bed.

The domes are set in secluded

woodland on the shores of Lough

Erne.

HORSE-DRAWN CARAVAN

It’s possible to hire a traditional,

horse-drawn wagon, which

you can drive around peaceful

countryside and sleep in over-

night. Caravans have gas-fired

cooking facilities and gas lamps,

but no electricity or bathrooms.

Clissmann Horse Caravans

(clissmannhorsecaravans.com)

offer trips in County Wicklow.

BOOKING

Advance bookings are generally recommended and are an absolute necessity during

the July and August holiday period. The summer public holidays are the first Monday in

August in the Republic, and 12 July and the last Monday in August in the North.

Discover Ireland (discoverireland.ie) and Discover Northern Ireland (discovernorth-

ernireland.com) have extensive accommodation listings. Local tourist information

offices can often book accommodation on your behalf.

Daft.ie (daft.ie) Online property portal that includes holiday homes and short-term rentals.

Elegant Ireland (elegant.ie) Specialises in self-catering castles, period houses and

unique properties.

Imagine Ireland (imagineireland.com) Holiday cottage rentals across Ireland.

Irish Landmark Trust (irishlandmark.com) Not-for-profit conservation group that

rents self-catering properties of historical and cultural significance, such as castles,

tower houses, gate lodges, schoolhouses and lighthouses.

National Trust (nationaltrust.org.uk) Self-catering cottages and campsites on National

Trust properties in Northern Ireland.

Lonely Planet (lonelyplanet.com/ireland/hotels) Recommendations and bookings.

Dream Ireland (dreamireland.com) Lists self-catering holiday cottages and apartments.

VIKING HOUSE

Spend the night in

a recreated Viking

house from 1000

years ago, with

wattle walls, a

thatched roof and

a central hearth.

It’s at the Irish

National Heritage

Park in County

Wexford.

JAN SZTEMON/GETTY IMAGES ©

BOB HILSCHER/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

ESSENTIAL NUTS-AND-BOLTS

PUBLIC

HOLIDAYS

Public holidays

can cause road

chaos as everyone

tries to get away

for the break. Book

accommodation in

advance.

CROSSING THE

BORDER

There are no

border checks

between the

Republic of Ireland

and Northern

Ireland.

SMOKING

Throughout Ireland smoking indoors is ille-

gal everywhere except in private residences

and designated hotel rooms. Smoking in

cars carrying children is also illegal.

FAST

FACTS

Time Zone

GMT+1

Country Code

+353

Electricity

230V/50Hz

GOOD TO KNOW

Visas are not required

by most citizens of

Europe, Australia,

New Zealand, USA and

Canada.

In case of emergency,

dial 999 (police, fire

and ambulance).

The electricity supply

is 230V/50Hz. Plug

sockets are three-

pronged (as in the UK).

USB ports on plug

sockets are increasing-

ly common in hotels

and cafes.

Ireland uses the metric

system, except for liquid

measures of alcohol,

where pints are used.

ACCESSIBLE TRAVEL

New buildings all have wheelchair

access. Historic sites such as castles and

towers may not have lifts.

Hotels often have lifts, ramps, hearing

loops and rooms with accessible bath-

rooms. Disabled Friendly Hotels (dis

abledfriendlyhotels.com) has a database

of accessible accommodations.

Parking bays for people with disabili-

ties are generally available at shopping

centres and other attractions.

City buses usually have low-floor access

and priority spaces on board. Not all Bus

Éireann Expressway and Regional services

are wheelchair-accessible. Note that many

rural bus stops are not accessible.

Useful resources include Accessible

Ireland (accessibleireland.com) and

AccessAble (for Northern Ireland;

accessable.co.uk).

MOBILE PHONES

European phones

work in Ireland.

Check internation-

al phones are not

locked to a local

network.

PUB ROUNDS

In pubs it’s usual

to take turns to

buy a round of

drinks for the

whole group.

GREETINGS

Shake hands and

make eye contact

when meeting

for the first time

and when saying

goodbye.

TIME

In winter (November to March) Ireland is

on Western European Time, also known as

Greenwich Mean Time (GMT) or Universal

Time Coordinated (UTC). In summer (April

to October), clocks shift to GMT/UTC plus

one hour, also known as Irish Standard

Time (IST) or British Summer Time (BST).

BREXIT

As part of the treaty that took the UK out of the EU, the Northern Ireland Protocol

guarantees an open border in Ireland, without additional border checks or formalities.

This means Northern Ireland continues to follow many EU rules relating to imports and

exports.

FAMILY TRAVEL

Public transport is free for children

under five.

Hotels can usually provide cots with

advance notice. Some bigger hotels

offer kids clubs during school holidays.

Some B&Bs do not accept children.

Restaurants generally have high

chairs, children’s menus and

baby-changing facilities. High-end

restaurants may be unsuitable.

Pubs do not allow under-15s in

after 9pm.

Visitor attractions nearly all cater

to children and offer reduced-price

tickets for kids and families.

LGBTIQ+ TRAVELLERS

Although a generally tolerant place for LGBTIQ+

travellers, Ireland’s LGBTIQ+ community continues to face

discrimination and homophobic abuse.

Same-sex marriage has been legal since 2015 (2020 in

Northern Ireland).

Well-established gay scenes exist in Dublin, Belfast,

Galway and Cork. Pride is celebrated in all four cities.

Leo Varadkar, Taoiseach from 2017 to 2020, was Ireland’s

first openly gay head of government.

Gay Community News (GCN; gcn.ie) is a monthly magazine

with local news and features.

DIRK HUDSON/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

LANGUAGE

Irish (Gaeilge) is the country’s official language.

Despite this, it is really only spoken in pockets of rural

Ireland known as the Gaeltacht. Ask people outside

the Gaeltacht if they can speak Irish and they will

probably reply, ‘ah, cúpla focal’ (a couple of words).

Irish divides vowels into long (those with an accent)

and short (those without). Other than a few odd-

looking clusters, such as mh and bhf (both pro-

nounced as w), consonants are generally pronounced

as they are in English.

BASICS

CÚPLA FOCAL

SIGNS

Index

A

accessible travel 248

accommodation 246-7

activities 8-9, 22-9

art 20-1, 210-11

ATMs 238, 243

B

beaches 14-15, 14-15

Annestown Beach 117

Ballymoney Beach 105, 106

Barleycove Beach 141

Brittas Bay 91

Clogher Beach 154

Cork 138-41

Curracloe Strand 106, 108-9

Derrynane Beach 160-1

Donegal 232-3

Duncannon Beach 105, 106

Fanore Beach 193

Fermoyle Beach 166

Garrylucas Beach 140-1

Inch Strand 156

Inchydoney 141

Kerry 156, 158-61, 166

Kilgorman Strand 105

Maharees 166

Morriscastle Beach 106

Silver Strand 141

Tramore Beach 117

Warren, the 141

Waterford 117, 118-19

Wexford 104-7

Wicklow 90-1

Beara Peninsula 131

beer 6, 146

Belfast 210-11, 214-15

birdwatching 10-11, 68-9, 107, 170-

1, 178, 189, 190, 195

Blasket Islands 159, 160

boat travel 91, 107, 176-9, 190, 240

bodhrán 19, 187

bogs 11, 200

Brexit 249

Burren, the 29, 192-3, 194-5, 193

bus travel 240

C

Caherconree 166

canal barges 246

car travel 13, 240, 241

Castlecomer Discovery Park 111

Castledawson 223

castles 246

Blackrock Castle 135

Blarney Castle 135

Bullock Castle 67

Dalkey Castle & Heritage

Centre 67

Dunlough Castle 136

Dunluce Castle 235

Gleninagh Castle 193

Howth Castle 71

Kilkenny Castle 120

Lismore Castle 120

Causeway Coast 27, 224-5, 226-7

caves

Crag Cave 175

Doolin Cave 200

Marble Arch Caves 234

children, travel with 56-9, 104-7,

110-11, 174, 178, 249

churches 120, 143, 147, 175, 201

Clara Vale Nature Reserve 95

cliffs 14-15, 14-15

Cliffs of Moher 188-91

climate 22-9, 43

coasteering 91, 227

Copper Coast 116-17, 117

Cork 122-47, 124-5

accommodation 127

activities 132

beaches 138-41

castles 134-7

drinking 127, 146-7

driving tour 130-3

English Market 144-5

festivals 131, 147

food 127, 128-9, 146

islands 138-41

itineraries 142-3

money 127

navigation 127

planning 124-5

travel seasons 126

travel to Cork 126

travel within Cork 126

wi-fi 127

Cork City 142-3, 143

crafts 120, 175, 201, 203, 245

credit cards 243

Croagh Patrick 201

culture 4-5, 43, 72-3, 112-15, 175,

186-7, 229, 235

currency 243

customs regulations 238

cycling 9, 241

Atlantic Coast Route 9

Ballinastoe Mountain Bike

Trail 96

Cycling Greenway 117

Great Western Greenway 185,

201

D

Dalkey 66-7, 67

Dark Sky Parks 13

Derry 213, 222-3, 235

Dingle 164-7, 172-3

distilleries

Cork 146-7

Dublin 76

Glendalough Distillery 97

Jameson Distilleries 76, 146

Micil Distillery 203

Old Bushmills Distillery 235

Powerscourt Distillery 89

diving 199, 230

dolphins 11, 69, 90, 139, 170, 172-3

Donegal 228-31, 232-3

driving 13, 240, 241

Dublin 46-77, 48-9

accommodation 51

culture 72-3

drinking 55, 74, 76

festivals 73

food 51, 52-5, 74, 77

history 60-1, 62-3

itineraries 30-1, 66-7, 70-1

money 51

music 76

navigation 51

parks 56-9, 75-6

planning 48-9

shopping 75, 76

tours 77

travel seasons 50

travel to Dublin 50

travel within Dublin 50

wi-fi 51

wildlife 68-9

E

Easter Rising 60-1

English Market 144-5

environment 241

etiquette 243, 245, 249

events 22-9, 113

F

family travel 56-9, 104-7, 110-11,

174, 178, 249

Fermanagh 216-19

festivals 5, 22-9, 204-5

Cork 131, 147

Dublin 73

Electric Picnic 24, 205

Fleadh Cheoil na hÉireann 205

Galway 22, 23, 205

Harvest Festival 163

Kerry 162-3

Kilkenny Cat Laughs 205

Lughnasa 163

Puck Fair 163

St Brigid’s Day 27, 163

St Patrick’s Day 28

Wicklow 89

Winterval 26

film 45, 65, 108-9, 168-9, 214-15,

220-1

Fleadh Cheoil na hÉireann 205

flowers 193, 194

food 16-17, 42

forts 136, 166, 175

Fungie 172-3

G

GAA (Gaelic Athletic Association)

5, 23, 112-15

Gaeltacht 4, 42, 153, 229, 288

Galway 22, 23, 186-7, 204

Game of Thrones 220-1

gardens 120

Botanic Gardens (Belfast) 234

Dublin 58, 75-6

Garden of Remembrance 57

Irish Sky Garden 136

Kells Bay Gardens 174

National Botanic Gardens

(Dublin) 58

National Botanic Gardens,

Kilmacurragh 87

Russborough House &

Parklands 86-7

glamping pods 247

Glendalough Monastic

Settlement 96

Glendalough Valley 94

Granuaile 196-7

Great Western Greenway 185, 201

Guinness Storehouse 75

H

Hazelwood Forest 200

Heaney, Seamus 222-3

hiking 9, 245

Burren, the 192-3, 193

Caherconree 166

Causeway Coast 224-5

Cliffs of Moher 189

Croagh Patrick 201

Donegal 231

Howth 70-1, 71

Ireland Way 9

Kerry Camino 29, 156-7, 157

Ulster 234

Wicklow 92-5

history

Civil War 64-5

Easter Rising 60-1

Kerry 175

revolutionaries 61, 62-3

000 Map pages

West of Ireland 200

horse riding 96, 106, 201

horse-drawn caravans 247

Howth 70-1, 71

hurling 112-15

I

Imbolc 27, 163

insurance 242

internet resources 45, 245, 247

islands

Bere Island 139

Blasket Islands 159, 160

Cape Clear 139

Dalkey Island 67

Donegal 230

Dursey Island 139-40

Garnish Island 140

Saltee Islands 107

Sherkin Island 140

Skellig Islands 160, 168-9

Tory Island 21, 38, 230

Valentia Island 160

itineraries 30-41, see also

individual regions

K

kayaking 91, 107, 129, 132, 199

Kerry 148-75, 150, 157

accommodation 151

beaches 158-61

crafts 175

culture 175

drinking 151, 164-7, 174-5

festivals 162-3

food 151, 155, 174

history 175

islands 158-61

itineraries 150

money 151

navigation 151

parks 174

planning 150

travel seasons 151

travel to Kerry 151

travel within Kerry 151

wildlife 170-1

Kerry Camino 29, 156-7, 157

Kilkenny 110-11

Killary Harbour 200

Kilmainham Gaol 75

kitesurfing 106, 199, 201

L

lakes 216-19

Lough Erne 217-18

Lough Ree 178

language 4, 43, 288

LGBTIQ+ ravellers 249

lighthouses 71, 91, 160, 173, 229

246

literature 5, 7, 44, 75, 159, 205,

222-3

M

Mahon 116-17

markets 17

Belfast 209

Christmas 26

Cork 129, 144-5, 147

Dublin 53

West of Ireland 202

Mayo 196-7

midges 242

mobile phones 249

monasteries 218

money 51, 243

murals 20-1, 210-11, 212-13

museums

14 Henrietta Street 73

Butter Museum 143

EPIC 73, 75

GPO Museum 61

Little Museum of Dublin 75

MoLI 74

National Museum of Ireland –

Country Life 200

National Museum of Ireland –

Decorative Arts & History 73

Tower Museum 235

Ulster Museum 235

music 18-19, 44, 76-7, 186-7, 235

N

national parks 12-13

Ballycroy 13

Connemara 200

Glenveagh 231

Killarney 174

National Botanic Gardens 58

National Botanic Gardens,

Kilmacurragh 87

Wicklow Mountains 96

Wild Nephin Ballycroy 200

Northern Ireland 242

O

O’Malley, Grace 196-7

P

parks

Bonane Heritage Park 174

Castlecomer Discovery Park 111

Cave Hill Country Park 234

Dublin 56-9, 75-6

Fitzgerald’s Park 142

Glanteenassig Forest Park 167

Glenbeigh Fairy Forest 174

Gleninchaquin Park 174

Kilbroney Park 234

Slieve Gullion Forest Park 234

Tollymore Forest Park 234

podcasts 44

pubs 27, 43, 177, 249

Dingle 164-7

Dublin 55, 74

Galway 186-7

Kerry 174-5

Ulster 235

R

responsible travel 241, 244-5

S

safe travel 242

Sally Gap 96

Saving Private Ryan 108-9

Shannon 176-9

Skellig Islands 160, 168-9

Slea Head 152-5

Sligo 198-9

Southeast 98-121, 100-1

accommodation 103

activities 117, 120

beaches 104-7

boat travel 107

drinking 103

food 103, 121

itineraries 36-7, 100-1, 116-17

money 103

planning 100-1

travel seasons 102

travel to the Southeast 102

travel within the Southeast 102

wi-fi 103

sports 5, 23, 112-15

Star Wars 29, 168-9

stately homes

Bantry House & Garden 137

Doneraile Court 137

Fota House 136-7

Killruddery House & Gardens 86

Powerscourt House & Gardens

85

Russborough House &

Parklands 86-7

stone circles 133

street art 210-11, 212-13

surfing 9, 91, 159, 198-9, 230

T

tipping 243

Titanic 214-15

traditional music 18-19, 76-7,

186-7, 235

train travel 240

travel seasons 22-9

travel to/from Ireland 238-9

travel within Ireland 240-1

tree houses 247

U

Ulster 206-35, 208

accommodation 209

drinking 209, 235

food 209, 234

hiking 224-5, 234

internet access 209

money 209

planning 208

travel seasons 209

travel to Ulster 209

travel within Ulster 209

V

Viking houses 247

W

walking, see hiking

Waterford 118-19

weather 22-9, 43

West of Ireland 180-203, 182-3

accommodation 185

activities 185, 200, 201

drinking 186-7, 203

food 185, 202-3

itineraries 38-9, 40-1, 192-3

money 185

navigation 185

planning 182-3

tours 202

travel seasons 184

travel to the West of Ireland 184

travel within the West of Ireland

184

wi-fi 185

Wexford 104-7

whales 11, 139, 140, 171, 173

whiskey 76, 89, 97, 203, 235

Wicklow 78-97, 80-1

accommodation 83

activities 90-1, 96

beaches 90-1

drinking 83, 97

festivals 89

food 83, 88-9, 96-7

hiking 92-5

money 83

navigation 83

planning 80-1

shopping 97

tours 96

travel seasons 82

travel to Wicklow 82

travel within Wicklow 82

wi-fi 83

wildlife 10-11, 68-9, 170-1, 172-3,

189-90, 194-5, 217, 231

wine 89

Y

yurts 247

000 Map pages

NOELLE KELLY

Noelle is a travel writer, blogger and yoga teacher from

Thurles, Co Tipperary. She enjoys travelling slowly,

learning about new cultures, cuisines, and nuances of

wherever she’s exploring. When not on her yoga mat,

Noelle shares her adventures on her website.

WanderingOn.com

FIONÁN MCGRATH

Irish-born, part-time Canadian, Fionán has lived in

six countries and loves off-the-beaten-track travel

activities especially wild camping and bike packing.

My favourite experience is wandering around Cork

City. I always end up in the English Market sampling

the gastronomic delights.

My favourite experience is bike packing around

West Cork.

ORLA SMITH & NEIL ARTHURS

Dubliners, Neil and Orla, found they shared a love for travel

and adventure when they met in Sydney back in 2004.

Neil’s skills as a professional photographer and Orla’s

passion for travel writing helps to keep them on the road.

My favourite experience Neil’s favourite experience

is capturing the Northern Lights in Iceland. Orla’s

is midnight swimming among bioluminescence in

Lough Hyne in the south of Ireland.

THIS BOOK

Design development

Lauren Egan, Tina Garcia,

Fergal Condon,

Content development

Anne Mason

Cartography

development

Wayne Murphy, Katerina

Pavkova

Production development

Mario D’Arco, Dan Moore,

Sandie Kestell, Virginia

Moreno, Juan Winata

Series development

leadership

Liz Heynes, Darren

O’Connell, Piers Pickard,

Chris Zeiher

Commissioning Editor

Daniel Bolger, Fergus

O’Shea

Product Editor

Amy Lynch

Book Designer

Fergal Condon

Assisting Book Designer

Ania Bartoszek

Assisting Editors

Lorna Parkes, Gabrielle

Stefanos

Cover Researcher

Lauren Egan

Thanks Gwen Cotter,

Sandie Kestell, John Taufa,

Saralinda Turner

Our Writers

ISABEL ALBISTON

Born in London and raised near Belfast, Isabel returned

to Ireland in 2018 after living in Australia, Argentina and

Spain. Jobs have included writing for newspapers and

magazines, working as a Buenos Aires tour guide, and

contributing to 15 Lonely Planet guidebooks.

BRIAN BARRY

Cork-native Brian is a travel writer, photographer

and digital nomad who has explored more than fifty

countries. An adventure sports enthusiast, lover of

the outdoors and independent travel advocate, Brian

prefers the road less travelled.

WanderingOn.com

My favourite experience is hiking the Causeway

Coast Way, taking a bracing dip in the sea, and eating

local seafood in a pub overlooking the ocean.

My favourite experience is road-tripping around West

Cork, enjoying the spectacular scenery, finding hidden

beaches, and immersing yourself in the Irish outdoors.

YVONNE GORDON

Dubliner Yvonne Gordon is an award-winning travel

writer and photographer, specialising in adventure

travel and contributing to publications including The

Sunday Times, The Washington Post, Wanderlust, BBC

Travel and AFAR.com.

ÚNA-MINH KAVANAGH

Kerrywoman Úna-Minh is an Irish speaker and

multimedia creator who edits the good news website

WeAreIrish.ie. She’s a live-streamer who broadcasts

in Irish and English on Twitch (twitch.tv/yunitex).

@unaminhkavanagh

@unaminh

My favourite experience is exploring the wild, remote

side of County Donegal – surfing the amazing beaches,

kayaking under cliffs and hiking the headlands.

My favourite experience is being among Irish-speaking

communities. The Kerry Gaeltacht is one of my top

places to visit, particularly Baile na nGall village.

Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reasonable care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about

the accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maximum extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use.

All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic,

mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired,

without the written permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered

in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial

establishments, such as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip.

Apple

Amazon

lonelyplanet.com

Barnes & Noble

Google

Table of Contents

Title Page

Contents

Best Experiences

Calendar

Trip Builder

7 Things to Know About Ireland

Read, Listen, Watch & Follow

Dublin

Fair City of Food & Stout

Family Fun in the Park

Revolutionary Dublin

Key Players in a Revolution

A Nation Divided

Sea Air Around Dalkey

Dublin Bay Wildlife

Hiking in Howth

Cultural Dublin

Listings

Wicklow

Gardens & Homes

The Garden of Ireland

Seaside Ventures

Wandering Wicklow

Listings

The Southeast

Wexford Beach Life

When Spielberg Stormed Curracloe

Family Thrills in Kilkenny

The Game of Hurling

Copper Coast & Mahon

Breathtaking Waterford

Listings

Cork

The Culinary Capital

The Wonderful Wild West

Castles & Stately Homes

Islands & Beaches

Stroll Through Cork City

Charting the English Market

Listings

Kerry

Slea Head Drive Scenery

Walking the Camino

Beaches & Islands

Celebrations of Old

Dingle Views & Bar Pews

The Emerald Galaxy

Wildlife of Kerry

The Dolphin that put Dingle on the Map

Listings

Meander the Shannon

West of Ireland

Galway Pubs & Reels

Cruising the Cliffs

Walk the Rocky Burren

Wildlife of the Burren

Grace O’Malley: The Pirate Queen

Surf Sessions in Sligo

Listings

Festival Fever

Ulster

Belfast’s Painted Walls

Murals & Street Art

Titanic Belfast

Fermanagh’s Lakelands

On Location

Heaney’s Homeland

Hiking the Causeway

Daring Scrambles & Leaps

Wild & Wonderful Donegal

Donegal’s Favourite Beaches

Listings

Practicalities

Arriving

Getting Around

Safe Travel

Money

Responsible Travel

Accommodation

Essentials

Language