About the Authors

Christi Daugherty is an expat American. A former journalist, she's the author of several travel books including Frommer's Paris Day by Day. She also co-wrote Frommer's MTV Ireland and Frommer's MTV Europe. She learned everything she knows about Ireland accidentally, while getting lost repeatedly over the course of many years. She likes to think that she gets lost so you don't have to. These days she and her husband and co-writer Jack Jewers spend their spare time traveling around Ireland (she drives, he navigates) looking for new places to explore. She spends whatever time is left over writing unpublished mystery novels.

Jack Jewers has directed films for the BBC, reviewed publications for Time Out, and contributed to several guidebooks, including previous editions of Frommer’s Ireland. He also co-wrote Frommer’s Ireland Day by Day. Jack grew up listening to his great aunt's tales about living in Dublin during the Civil War. She once leaned out of a window during a late-night battle to tell the gunmen to keep the noise down—people were trying to sleep. Born and raised in England, Jack proposed to his Irish-American wife at a spa in County Kerry. She said yes. That spa gets a great review in this book.

Frommer’s Star Ratings, Icons & Abbreviations

Every hotel, restaurant, and attraction listing in this guide has been ranked for quality, value, service, amenities, and special features using a star-rating system. In country, state, and regional guides, we also rate towns and regions to help you narrow down your choices and budget your time accordingly. Hotels and restaurants are rated on a scale of zero (recommended) to three stars (exceptional). Attractions, shopping, nightlife, towns, and regions are rated according to the following scale: zero stars (recommended), one star (highly recommended), two stars (very highly recommended), and three stars (must-see).

In addition to the star-rating system, we also use seven feature icons that point you to the great deals, in-the-know advice, and unique experiences that separate travelers from tourists. Throughout the book, look for:

special finds—those places only insiders know about

fun facts—details that make travelers more informed and their trips more fun

kids—best bets for kids and advice for the whole family

special moments—those experiences that memories are made of

overrated—places or experiences not worth your time or money

insider tips—great ways to save time and money

great values—where to get the best deals

The following abbreviations are used for credit cards:

AE American Express

DISC Discover

V Visa

DC Diners Club

MC MasterCard

AROUND DUBLIN

The area immediately around Dublin is not the most dramatic or beautiful in the country, but if you get off the big, bland motorways, there are treasures in those hills, all within easy reach from the city.

About 30 minutes south of Dublin, you enter the brooding Wicklow Mountains. Home to early religious sites and peaceful river valleys, these hills are perfect for a day trip from Dublin, and make a good starting point to a driving tour of the south of Ireland.

Heading north from Dublin you can see the remnants of ancient civilizations at prehistoric sites Newgrange and Knowth. A short distance away, the green hills around the Boyne Valley are where the Irish kings once reigned with a mixture of mysticism and force.

To the east, the plains of County Kildare start off Ireland’s horse country. There’s plenty to do and lots of Ireland to see within an hour of Dublin.

COUNTY WICKLOW & COUNTY CARLOW

County Wicklow extends from Bray, 19km (12 miles) S of Dublin, to Arklow, 64km (40 miles) S of Dublin

Sitting at a seaside cafe in the cheerful suburban town of Bray ★, you can look off to the southern horizon and see the mountains of County Wicklow casting their shadow your way. Wicklow’s northernmost border is just a dozen or so miles south of Dublin, making it one of the easiest day trips from the city. The beauty of the mountains, with their peaceful Vale of Avoca and isolated, contemplative monastery site, Glendalough, makes this landscape one of the most rewarding views.

Bray is a stylish, upscale town, but it’s also busy and bustling, so many people choose to head to County Wicklow by way of the sweet harbor town of Greystones ★, a place so charming you might not tell your friends about, for fear of inspiring crowds that could spoil it.

Beyond Greystones, a raised granite ridge runs through the county, peaking at two of the highest mountain passes in Ireland—the Sally Gap and the Wicklow Gap. Hikers will want to strike out on foot on the well-marked Wicklow Way walking path, which wanders for miles past mountain tarns and secluded glens. You can pick up a map at any tourism office, and then choose a stretch of the path to explore. If you’re staying in the car, you’ll want to track down the picturesque villages of Roundwood, Laragh, and Aughrim.

Just over the border of County Wicklow lies County Carlow, one of Ireland’s smallest counties, bordered to the east by the Blackstairs Mountains and to the west by the fertile limestone land of the Barrow Valley and the Killeshin Hills. Its most prominent feature is the 5,000-year-old granite formation known as Browne’s Hill Dolmen. Its capstone is believed to weigh a colossal 100 tons.

Essentials

GETTING THERE Irish Rail ( 01/836-6222; www.irishrail.ie) provides daily train service between Dublin and Bray and Wicklow.

Bus Éireann ( 01/836-6111; www.buseireann.ie) operates daily express bus service to Arklow, Bray, and Wicklow towns. Both Bus Éireann and Discover Dublin ( 01/280-1899; www.discoverdublin.ie) offer an excellent tour that they have dubbed the “Wild Wicklow Tour.” It certainly is lively and enjoyable, and hits all the high points, including visits to Avoca and Sally Gap. Another tour option is the Mary Gibbons Tours ( 086/355-1355; www.newgrangetours.com), which offers an absorbing, in-depth tour of Glendalough and nearby Powerscourt.

Still, arguably the best way to see Wicklow is by car, as that’s the only way that you can take in all the little villages not well served by bus or train. The Dublin Tourist Office has excellent road maps for all of Ireland. Take the N11 south from Dublin City and follow turnoff signs for major attractions.

VISITOR INFORMATION The Wicklow Tourist Office, Fitzwilliam Square, Wicklow Town, County Wicklow ( 0404/69117; www.visitwicklow.ie), is open Monday to Saturday year-round from 9:30am to 1pm and 2 to 5:15pm, until 6pm June through September. The Carlow Tourist Office, Foresters Hall, College Street, Carlow Town, County Carlow ( 059/913-0411; www.carlowtourism.com), is open Monday to Friday year-round, from 9:30am to 5pm (closed for lunch 1–2pm). It’s also open selected Saturdays in the summer; call before you visit.

Seeing the Sights

Altamont Garden The lush, colorful extravagance of Altamont is the result of decades of nurturing. A shadowy avenue of beech trees leads to bright lawns and flowers beneath ancient yew trees. Gravel walks weave around a lake, constructed as a famine-relief project. It’s arguably at its best in late May, when spectacular displays of bluebells fill the forest floor on slopes overlooking the River Slaney, but it’s always beautiful.

Tullow, County Carlow. 059/915-9444. www.altamontgarden.com. Free admission. Mar–Oct daily 9am–7:30pm; Nov and Feb Mon–Thurs and Sat–Sun 9am–4:30pm, Fri 9am–3:30pm; Dec Mon–Thurs 9am–4pm, Fri 9am–3:30pm, Sat–Sun after Christmas only 9am–4:30pm; Jan Mon–Thurs and Sat–Sun 9am–4pm, Fri 9am–3:30pm.

Avondale House & Forest Park ★ In a fertile valley between Glendalough and the Vale of Avoca, this is the former home of Charles Stewart Parnell (1846–91), one of Ireland’s great political leaders. Built in 1779, the house is now a museum dedicated to his memory. The parkland around the house is beautiful, with wooded nature trails along a river, and more formal gardens near the house. There’s a cute cafe serving tea and light lunches, as well as homemade breads and pastries, and there’s also a playground for children, which should keep them busy for a while. The house’s opening hours change regularly, so give them a call before you go.

Off R752, Rathdrum, County Wicklow. 0404/46111. Admission €6.50 adults; €6 seniors and students; €4.50 children 11 and under; €19 families. Forest Park daily 8:30am–7pm. Avondale House Apr–May and Sept–Oct Sat–Sun noon–4pm; June–Aug Tues–Sun noon–5pm. Parking €5, free with family ticket.

Browne’s Hill Dolmen The purpose of this megalithic stone table has been the subject of conjecture for centuries, but nobody knows for certain. The tomb is an estimated 5,000 years old, and its massive size led earlier Irish residents to believe that it was built by giants. Archaeologists believe the capstone was rolled into place on an earthen ramp constructed for the process and then destroyed. It’s likely the dolmen is the burial place of a long-dead king, but it has a rich heritage of myth and legend.

Off Rathvilly Rd., Carlow, County Carlow. Free admission. Daily year-round. Access via parking lot and enclosed pedestrian pathway.

Glendalough ★★★ This evocative, misty glen is a magical place. An ancient, abandoned monastery built on the edge of dark lakes and surrounded by hills and forests, it’s a memorable sight. Its name is derived from the Irish gleann da locha, meaning “the glen of the two lakes.” Things always seem to be in soft focus here as you wander the rocky paths beside the ancient chapels. The ruins date from the 6th century, when a monk who became known as St. Kevin chose this secluded setting, which was already used as a Bronze Age tomb, for his home. For 7 years he fasted, prayed, slept on the hard ground, and ate only what he could catch or find. His self-deprivation and fervor gained attention from passing hunters and peddlers, and soon similarly devout followers found their way here. Over the next 4 centuries, Kevin’s church became a center of religious learning, attracting thousands of students from all over Europe. Unfortunately, its success, as with so many early Irish religious sites, was its downfall, and Glendalough soon came to the attention of Vikings, who pillaged it repeatedly between A.D. 775 and 1071. But it was always rebuilt stronger than ever, until 1398, when English forces in Ireland virtually wiped it out. Attempts were made to resuscitate it, and it limped on as just a shadow of all it had been until the 17th century, when it was abandoned altogether.

The combination of so many years of history and such an evocative setting means that there’s plenty to see here. Your first step should be to stop by the visitor center behind the Glendalough Hotel near the entrance to the valley, to pick up a map and learn a bit about the lay of the land. There are many walking trails, each one taking in different ruins, as the chapels were scattered over several miles. The oldest ruins, the Teampall na Slellig, can be seen across the lake at the foot of towering cliffs, but because there’s no boat service, they cannot be visited. There’s also a cave known as Kevin’s Bed, which is believed to be where the saint lived when he first arrived at Glendalough. Follow the path from the upper lake to the lower lake and walk through the remains of the monastery complex. Although much of the monastic city is in ruins, there’s a nearly perfect round tower, 31m (102 ft.) high and 16m (52 ft.) around the base, as well as hundreds of timeworn Celtic crosses and several chapels. One of these is St. Kevin’s Chapel, often called St. Kevin’s Kitchen, a fine specimen of an early Irish barrel-vaulted oratory with a miniature round belfry rising from a stone roof.

Unfortunately, Glendalough is a victim of its own success, so in the summer it tends to be overrun with tourists, which rather defeats the purpose of visiting such a peaceful place. Tip: In the high season, it’s best to arrive very early in the morning, or after 5pm (it stays light until 9pm at least) in order to see it at its best. (The visitor center closes at 5 or 6pm, but the grounds remain open.)

County Wicklow (11km/63⁄4 miles east of Wicklow on T7 via Rathdrum). 0404/45325 or 45352. Admission €3 adults; €2.10 seniors; €1.30 students and children 11 and under; €8 families. Visitor center Mid-Oct to mid-Mar daily 9:30am–5pm; mid-Mar to mid-Oct daily 9:30am–6pm.

Glenmacnass Waterfall ★ The River Glenmacnass flows south across the highest mountain in western Wicklow, Mt. Mullaghcleevaun (848m/2,781 ft.). At one point, it reaches the edge of a plateau and flows off the edge quite spectacularly. There’s a parking lot near the top, and a path to the falls, but take care on the rocks, which can be treacherous.

Follow the Military rd. through the Sally Gap and Laragh to the top of Glenmacnass Valley, and then watch for signs to the waterfall. Free admission.

Huntington Castle ★ Built in 1621 on the site of an abbey, which was itself built in the 14th century on the site of a Druid temple, this rambling, crenelated manor house was originally the home of Lord Esmond (on whom the writer Thackeray based his novel The History of Henry Esmond). His descendants still occupy the main building. The gardens here are beautiful and as historic as the house—many of the plants date back to the 18th century—and there is an extraordinary walk guarded on either side by ancient yew trees that is not to be missed. It’s a rambling, lived-in old house, with vast grounds bounded by the rivers Derry and Slaney. The place is more than a little bit spooky. There’s an old temple to the Goddess Isis in the dungeon (heaven knows why), and it’s said to be one of the most haunted buildings in Ireland. Stanley Kubrick filmed Barry Lyndon here. If you like it so much you can’t bear to leave, you can rent one wing of the castle—if you’re brave enough—with space for up to five people (from €245–€530 a week, depending on the season); visit www.shamrockcottages.co.uk for more information (it’s listed under the Wexford section).

Clonegal, County Carlow (off N80, 6.5km/4 miles from Bunclody). 053/937-7552. Guided tour €8 adults; €6 seniors, students, and children 7 and older; free for children 6 and under. June–Aug daily 2–6pm. Last tour 5:20pm. Other times by appointment.

Killruddery House & Gardens This grand estate has been the seat of the Earl of Meath since 1618. The noble mansion dates from 1820, and features a later (more frilly) glass Victorian conservatory modeled on the ill-fated Crystal Palace that stood in London at that time. The gardens are a highlight, with a lime avenue, a sylvan theater, exotic plants, twin canals, and a fountain-filled pond edged with beech hedges. The restored walled garden was opened to visitors in 2011, and the traditional kitchen garden is gradually being replanted.

Killruddery, Bray, County Wicklow (off the N11). 01/286-3405. www.killruddery.com. House and garden tour €10 adults; €8 seniors and students; €3 children 12 and under; €18 families. Gardens only €6 adults; €5 seniors and students; €2 children 12 and under. House May–June and Sept daily 1–5pm. Gardens Apr Sat–Sun 9:30–5pm; house and gardens May–Sept daily 9:30–5pm.

Mount Usher Gardens ★ Spreading out on 8 hectares (20 acres) at the edge of the River Vartry, this peaceful site was once an ancient lake. These days, it’s a riverside garden, designed in a distinctively informal style. Fiery rhododendrons, fragrant eucalyptus trees, giant Tibetan lilies, and snowy camellias compete for your attention. Informal and responsive to their natural setting, these gardens have an almost untended feel—a sort of floral woodland. A spacious cafe, part of the very good Avoca chain, overlooks the river and gardens. The courtyard at the entrance to the gardens contains an interesting assortment of shops.

Ashford, County Wicklow (off the N11). 0404/40205. www.mountushergardens.ie. Admission €7.50 adults; €6 seniors and students; €3 children 5–16; free for children 4 and under. Mar–Oct daily 10:30am–5:20pm. Cafe and shops 10am–4pm year-round.

National Sea Life Centre This cleverly designed aquarium at the water’s edge in coastal Bray provides a kid-centric introduction to sea life. A labyrinthine path through the aquarium begins with a rock tunnel carved by a freshwater stream; from there, you follow the water’s course toward the open sea, from freshwater river to storm-pounded harbor and finally to the briny deep. Along the way, kids use “magic” glasses to read coded questions and find the answers. In the ocean portion, the emphasis is on scary critters, like sharks and octopus. It’s well done, and good family fun, but it’s a bit pricey considering its size. However, ticket prices are significantly cheaper if purchased in advance online.

Strand Rd., Bray, County Wicklow. 01/286-6939. www.sealife.ie. Admission €12 adults; €11 students; €9 children 12 and under. Mar–Oct daily 10am–5pm; Nov–Feb Mon–Fri 11am–4pm, Sat–Sun 10am–5pm.

Powerscourt Gardens, House Exhibition, and Waterfall ★★★ The 20th century was not kind to this magnificent estate, which was neglected for decades and then gutted by fire. It’s taken 30 years to restore the Palladian house to even a glimmer of its former glory. Only a few rooms are now open to the public, and there’s an exhibition that tells the history of the building and the long struggle of restoration.

The restored grand ballroom is particularly beautiful, although, mysteriously, it’s only open 2 days a week. On other days, even fewer rooms can be seen. Given how little of the house is open to the public, it’s hard not to feel a tad disappointed that so much of it is dedicated to shops, even if the retailers (including an Avoca crafts store) are good ones.

Still, the magnificent grounds are really the main attraction here. The gardens are remarkable—graced with classical statuary; filled with little touches like the shady grotto made of petrified moss, the Japanese garden, and an over-the-top fountain from which statues of winged horses rise. The gardens were designed by the landscaper Daniel Robertson between 1745 and 1767. Legend has it that due to terrible gout, he oversaw the work while being carted around in a wheelbarrow, sipping port as he went. When the bottle was dry, work was done for the day.

There’s a playground for the kids and plenty of space for them to run around. The Avoca cafe serves rich cakes, hot soups, and healthy salads, alongside a breathtaking view. If you feel energetic, follow the well-marked path over 7km (41⁄3 miles) to the picturesque Powerscourt Waterfall—the highest in Ireland (121m/397 ft.). If you’re not feeling energetic, you can drive, following signs.

Enniskerry, County Wicklow (off the N11). 01/204-6000. www.powerscourt.ie. Gardens €6 adults; €5.50 seniors and students; €3.50 children 5–16; free for kids 4 and under. Waterfall €5 adults; €4.50 seniors and students; €3.50 children 2–16; free for kids 1 and under. Free admission to house. Gardens and house exhibition daily 9:30am–5:30pm (gardens close at dusk in winter); closed Dec 25–26. Ballroom and Garden Rooms year-round Sun 9:30am–1:30pm; May–Sept Mon 9:30am–1:30pm. Waterfall Mar–Apr and Sept–Oct daily 10:30am–5:30pm; May–Aug daily 9:30am–7pm; Nov–Feb daily 10:30am–4pm.

The Curse of Powerscourt House

This grand house in Enniskerry has a history of misfortune. It was designed in the 18th century by Richard Cassels, who also designed Russborough House and Dublin’s Parliament building. The same family lived in the building for 350 years, until the 1950s, but their fortunes gradually declined. By the time they moved out and donated the once magnificent house to the state, it was in terrible condition, and the country had little money to restore it. Its renovation was a painstaking project plagued with financial problems. In the end, the process took 2 decades. Finally, in 1974, the work was done, and a grand reopening was planned. However, it was not meant to be. The day before the event was due to take place a fire broke out, gutting the building. So the slow, painful process of reconstruction began again. This time it’s taken even longer—more than 30 years later, most of the house is still unrestored, and only a few rooms have been completed and opened to the public.

Russborough House ★★ This impressive Palladian villa was built between 1741 and 1751, designed by the great Richard Cassels, who also designed the ill-fated Powerscourt House (above). In the 1950s, the house was purchased by Sir Alfred Beit, a member of the De Beers diamond family. He had inherited a massive collection of art and wanted someplace to keep it, and thought this rural mansion was just the spot. Thus began one of the most exquisite small rural collections in the country, with paintings by Vernet, Vermeer, Goya, Gainsborough, and Rubens. Sadly, after a series of robberies, some of the most valuable paintings in the collection are held in the Beit wing of the National Gallery, but those left behind are still exquisite, and the setting is gorgeous. You can explore the house on your own or by guided tour, and there is certainly a lot to see—stucco ceilings by the Lafranchini brothers, huge marble mantelpieces, inlaid floors, and lavish use of mahogany in doors and staircase, as well as fine displays of silver, porcelain, and fine furniture. If you want to spend more time here, one wing of the museum has been re-developed as a self-catering holiday home.

Blessington, County Wicklow (off N81). 045/865239. www.russborough.ie. Admission to house €10 adults; €8 seniors and students; €5 children 15 and under. Garden maze €3. May–Sept daily 10am–6pm; mid-Mar to Apr Sun and national holidays 10am–6pm. Tours given on the hour. Closed Nov–Mar, except by appointment.

RUSSBOROUGH HOUSE: A LIFE OF crime!

Russborough House sits in a quiet stretch of countryside on a sprawling estate, miles from anywhere in deepest County Wicklow. Given its location, and its low-key reputation (many visitors to Ireland don’t even know it’s there), you might think that its collection of paintings by Vermeer, Goya, Gainsborough, and Rubens couldn’t be safer. You’d be wrong. There have been three major robberies here over the last 30 years in which millions of dollars worth of art have been stolen, damaged, and lost forever.

It all started in 1974 when members of the IRA stole 16 paintings in a sort of crime-based fundraising effort. All of the works were eventually recovered and peace descended, but 10 years later it happened again. That time, a Dublin gangster, Martin Cahill, ordered a number of paintings to be stolen from Russborough to enhance the riches of loyalist paramilitary groups. Only some of those were ever recovered, and many were badly damaged.

In 1986, the owners gave up on the expensive losing game of trying to protect the small but precious collection, and Dublin’s National Gallery began managing the collection. Again, all was calm until 2001. This time, thieves smashed a car through the front of the house and drove off with two paintings, including a Gainsborough that had already been stolen twice before. Both were recovered, but after yet another theft (and recovery) of paintings in 2002, the owners decided it would be best to send the most valuable paintings (by Vermeer, Goya, and Gainsborough) to the National Gallery for their own protection. The house still holds an excellent collection of less valuable art (some quality pieces were returned to the house in 2008, improving the collection even more), but expect to be followed around by anxious-looking staff.

St. Mullin’s Monastery This little gem is a well-kept secret. On a sunny day, its idyllic setting—in a sleepy hamlet beside the River Barrow, surrounded by soft carpeted hills—is reason enough for a visit. Besides that, this is a fascinating spot, an outdoor museum of sorts, spanning Irish history from the early Christian period to the present, over the course of a few acres. There are the ruins of a monastery founded by St. Moling (Mullin) in roughly A.D. 614. Plundered again and again by the Vikings in the 9th and 10th centuries, it was annexed in the 12th century by a nearby Augustinian abbey. Here, too, are a steep grassy motte (grove) and the outline of a bailey (the outer wall or court of a castle) constructed by the Normans in the 12th century. In the Middle Ages, the monastery ruins were a popular destination, especially during the height of the Black Death in 1348, when pilgrims would cross the river barefoot, circle the burial spot of St. Mullin nine times in prayer, adding small stones to the cairn marking the spot, and drink from the healing waters of the saint’s well. These ruins and waters are still the subject of an annual pilgrimage near or on July 25.

Adjoining the monastery buildings is an ancient cemetery still in use, where, contrary to common practice, Protestants and Catholics have long lain side by side. A number of rebels from the 1798 Rising are buried here, including Gen. Thomas Cloney. If the Heritage Centre is closed (it opens at the discretion of the caretaker, Seamus Fitzgerald), there’s a map and brief history at the entrance to the cemetery.

On the Barrow Dr., 12km (71⁄2 miles) north of New Ross, St. Mullins, County Carlow. Free admission.

Vale of Avoca ★ Basically a peaceful riverbank, the Vale of Avoca was immortalized in the writings of 19th-century poet Thomas Moore. It’s here at the “Meeting of the Waters” that the Avonmore and Avonbeg rivers join to form the Avoca River. It’s said that the poet sat under “Tom Moore’s Tree” looking for inspiration and penned the lines, “There is not in the wide world a valley so sweet as the vale in whose bosom the bright waters meet. . . .” The tree itself is a sorry sight—nothing left but a stump—but it’s still a beautiful place. Two miles away, the charming riverside village of Avoca makes a good stop to do some gift shopping.

Rte. 755, Avoca, County Wicklow.

Wicklow Mountains National Park ★★★ Nearly 20,000 hectares (49,400 acres) of County Wicklow make up this national park. The core area surrounds Glendalough, including the Glendalough Valley and Glendalough Wood Nature Reserves. Hikers note: The most mountainous stretch of the Wicklow Way cuts through this park (see www.irishways.com). In the high season, you’ll find an information station at the Upper Lake at Glendalough where you can get maps and route guides for hiking in the Glendalough Valley and surrounding hills. (See “Walking” under “Sports & Outdoor Pursuits,” below, for suggestions.) The closest parking is at Upper Lake, where you’ll pay €2 per car; or, just walk up from the Glendalough Visitor Centre, where the parking is free. Note: The Irish National Parks and Wildlife Service warns that ticks carrying Lyme disease are known to live in the hills. While the risk of contracting the disease is small, you should dress in long sleeves, wear a hat, and avoid hiking in shorts.

Glendalough, County Wicklow. 0404/45425. www.wicklowmountainsnationalpark.ie. Information office free admission. No opening restrictions to park. Information office May–Sept daily 10am–6pm; Oct–Nov and Feb–Apr Sat–Sun 10am–5:30pm; Dec–Jan 10am–4pm.

Wicklow’s Historic Gaol ★ Given the archaic look of the place, it’s impossible to believe that this old jail operated until 1924, the end of a terrifying career that spanned 2 centuries. A visit here is creative and interactive—after passing under the hanging beam, visitors are lined up against the wall of the “day room” and confronted with some dark facts of prison life in 1799, when more than 400 prisoners, most of them rebels, occupied the jail’s 42 cells. After years of being fed once every 4 days and allowed to walk in the prison yard for 15 minutes a month, prisoners must have warmed to the idea of the hangman’s noose. Within the main cellblock, you can roam the cells and visit informative exhibitions. The impact of these stories is immediate and powerful for children as well as for adults, because this jail held both. Many prisoners were sent from here to penal colonies in Australia and Tasmania; that story, too, is told here, with the help of a stage-set wharf and prison ship. There’s an in-house cafe, but if you’ve still got an appetite after that, you’re doing better than us. The jail is said to be very haunted indeed, and a lively, nighttime tour of the Gaol takes place on the last Friday of every month, although this is unsuitable for children.

Kilmantin Hill, Wicklow Town, County Wicklow. 0404/61599. www.wicklowshistoricgaol.com. Tour €7.30 adults; €6 seniors and students; €4.50 children 5–15; €19 families with up to 3 children; free for children 4 and under. Daily 10:30am–4:30pm; Sun 11am–4:30pm. Last admission 1 hr. before closing. Night tours last Fri of every month 7–9pm €15, includes glass of wine. Children 15 and under not admitted on night tours.

Shopping

Wicklow and Carlow each have some wonderful craft centers and workshops. Look out for those listed below:

Avoca Handweavers Inside this picturesque cluster of 18th-century whitewashed stone buildings, workers produce the Avoca chain’s distinctively bright and cheerful wool throws, scarves, dainty knitwear, and colorful accessories. You can watch the crafts-people weave strands of yarn (made from Irish wool) into desirable throws and blankets, or just head straight to the shops or the excellent cafe. There are other branches throughout Ireland, including at Powerscourt House, and on the N11 at Kilmacanogue, Bray, County Wicklow ( 01/286-7466). Avoca, County Wicklow. 0402/35105. www.avoca.ie.

Bergin Clarke Studio In this little workshop, Brian Clarke hand-fashions silver jewelry and giftware, and Yvonne Bergin knits stylish, colorful apparel using local yarns. Prices are not cheap, but their work is incredible. Classes in metalwork are offered—book in advance. Open May to September daily 10am to 8pm; October to April Monday to Saturday 10am to 5:30pm. The Old Schoolhouse, Ballinaclash, Rathdrum, County Wicklow. 0404/46385.

Glendalough Woollen Mills This long-established crafts shop in a converted farmhouse offers handicrafts from all over Ireland, such as Bantry Pottery and Penrose Glass from Waterford. Books, jewelry, and a large selection of hand-knits from the area are also sold. Open daily 9:30am to 6:30pm. Glendalough, County Wicklow. 0404/45156.

Sports & Outdoor Pursuits

CYCLING The Lorum Old Rectory is also the base for Celtic Cycling ( 097/977-5282; www.celticcycling.com/lorum.html.com), which offers a variety of 1- and 2-week cycling tours, or you can hire the gear you need from them and go it alone. In the summer, this area, with its rolling hills (although things get a bit steep in Wicklow) and gentle breezes, is great cycling country, and this outfit will help you make the most of it. Also, Cycling Safaris ( 01/260-0749; www.cyclingsafaris.com) offers a weeklong tour of the area for upward of €670 per person, including rooms and food.

FISHING During brown-trout season (Mar 15–Sept 30), you’ll find lots of angling opportunities on the Aughrim River (contact Arie van der Wel; 0402/36753 or 087/920-2751) and on the Avonmore River (contact Peter Driver in Rathdrum; 0404/46304 or 087/978-7040). Permits to fish on the Aughrim River are also available from Lawless’s Hotel, Aughrim ( 0402/36146) and the Woodenbridge Hotel in the Vale of Avoca ( 0402/35146; www.woodenbridgehotel.com). The Dargle River flows from Enniskerry to the sea at Bray and offers great sea-trout fishing in season from February 1 to October 12 (contact Hugh Duff in Enniskerry; 01/286-8652). Shore angling is hugely popular from beaches along the coast; contact the Irish Federation of Sea Anglers ( 01/280-6873; www.ifsa.ie) for information on how to obtain permits. Note: Lovely though it is, the Avoca River south of the Meeting of the Waters is polluted by copper mines and is unsuitable for fishing.

GOLF If you’re looking for cachet, head to the championship Druids Glen Golf Club, Newtonmountkennedy ( 01/287-3600; www.druidsglen.ie), an inland beauty of a course that bears more than a fleeting resemblance to Augusta and was European Golf Course of the Year in 2000. Greens fees are €150 daily if you arrive after 9am; early-bird greens fees, from 7:30 to 8:50am on weekdays, are €115. It also has a partner course nearby, Druid’s Heath, which is arguably just as nice, and is much cheaper; green fees are €90 or €70 early-bird. It can be reached at the same phone number. Special rates that include breakfast or a five-course dinner are available at both. For a more affordable day out, try the parkland Glenmalure Golf Club, Greenane, Rathdrum ( 01/269-6979; www.glenmalure.com), where greens fees are €25 weekdays and €35 weekends. Lessons are also available for €50 per person, per hour. The Arklow Golf Club ( 0402/32492; www.arklowgolflinks.com), a seaside par-68 course, charges fees of €40 weekdays and €50 Friday and Saturday (closed Sun). In addition to a slightly discounted early-bird price, they also do a twilight rate (after 6pm) of €25.

HORSEBACK RIDING The hillside paths of Wicklow are perfect for horseback riding. More than a dozen stables and equestrian centers offer horses for hire and instructional programs. Rates for horse hire average around €30 to €50 per hour. Brennanstown Riding School, Hollybrook, Kilmacanogue ( 01/286-3778; www.brennanstownrs.ie), offers beginner’s treks up the picturesque Little Sugar Loaf Mountain, which has views across Dublin Bay. Another leading stables in the area is the Paulbeg Riding School, Shillelagh ( 053/942-9100), where experienced riders can explore the surrounding hills, and beginners can receive expert instruction from Sally Duffy, who gives an enthusiastic introduction to the sport.

WALKING Loved by hikers and ramblers for its peace, isolation, and sheer beauty, the Wicklow Way is a 132km (82-mile) signposted walking path that follows forest trails, sheep paths, and country roads from the suburbs south of Dublin, up into the Wicklow Mountains, and down through country farmland to Clonegal, where the path ends. It takes about 5 to 7 days to walk its entirety, with overnight stops at B&Bs and hostels along the route. Most people choose to walk sections as day trips.

You can pick up information and maps at the Wicklow National Park center at Glendalough, or at any local tourist office. Information on less strenuous walks can be found in the Wicklow Trail Sheets, also from tourist offices. It provides a map and route description for several good short walks along the path.

The most spectacular places to walk in Wicklow are in the north and central parts of the county, and it is traversed by the Wicklow Way and numerous short trails. One lovely walk on the Way begins at the Deerpark parking lot near the Dargle River and continues to Luggala, passing Djouce Mountain; the next section, between Luggala and Laragh, traverses some wild country around Lough Dan.

St. Kevin’s Way, an ancient pilgrims’ route more than 1,000 years old, has recently been restored. The path runs for 30km (19 miles) through scenic countryside from Hollywood to Glendalough, following the route taken by pilgrims who visited the ancient monastic site, and winds its way through roads, forest paths, and open mountainside. It takes in many of the historical sites associated with St. Kevin, who traveled the route in search of a mountain hermitage, as well as areas of geological interest and scenic beauty.

Folks who prefer less strenuous walking can follow the paths around the lakes at Glendalough, or join the southern section of the Wicklow Way, through Tinahely, Shillelagh, and Clonegal. Not as rugged as the terrain in central Wicklow, the gentle hills roll through peaceful glens. Through much of this section, the path follows country roads chosen for their lack of traffic.

WATERSPORTS & ADVENTURE SPORTS Deep in the Wicklow Mountains, the Blessington Lakes are a 2,000-hectare (4,940-acre) playground of tranquil, clean, speedboat-free water. Less than an hour’s drive from Dublin center, and signposted on the N81, the Blessington Lakes Leisure, Blessington, County Wicklow ( 045/857844), provides all you need for canoeing, kayaking, sailing, and windsurfing, as well as land-based sports such as archery, orienteering, tennis, and pony trekking.

Where to Stay

VERY EXPENSIVE

BrookLodge & Wells Spa ★★★ BrookLodge is a revolutionary idea—not so much a hotel as a planned village with rooms scattered amid restaurants, pubs, an award-winning spa, a chapel, a bakery, and shops selling wines, homemade jams, and crafts. The property has a comfortable kind of luxury—rooms have firm king-size beds, deep tubs, soft linens, and contemporary furnishings. Service is excellent—the personal touch extends to a decidedly Irish nightly turndown service: chocolates on your pillow and a hot-water bottle between the sheets. The primary restaurant is the Strawberry Tree —a gourmet eatery with a passionate dedication to organic cuisine. The hotel’s lavish spa, the Wells, has made headlines with its Finnish baths, mud suites, hot tubs, indoor and outdoor pools, and innovative therapies. Check the website for good discounts and package deals that include breakfast and dinner.

Macreddin Village (btw. Aughrim and Aghavannagh), County Wicklow. www.brooklodge.com. 0402/36444. Fax 0402/36580. 54 units. €250 double. Rates include service charge and full Irish breakfast. Fixed-price 4-course dinner at the Strawberry Tree €65. AE, DC, MC, V. Amenities: 3 restaurants; 2 pubs; full-service spa. In room: TV, hair dryer.

Rathsallagh House Hotel & Golf Club ★★ Converted from Queen Anne stables in 1798 (the main house was burned in the 1798 uprising), this long, ivy-covered country house sits amid 212 hectares (524 acres) of parkland, which is, in turn, surrounded by Rathsallagh Golf Course (greens fees €40–€50). This is a cheerful place, with log fires roaring in the lounge, and a reviving cup of tea available whenever you need it. Return guests request their favorite rooms by name—the Buttercup, the Romantic, the Over Arch, or the Yellow Room. Rooms are priced according to size, starting with standard rooms, which are rather tiny, and rising to superior rooms, which offer plenty of space. Most rooms have sitting areas, and some have Jacuzzis. The hotel restaurant specializes in local meat and produce, cooked in modern Irish style. Children 11 and under are not allowed here.

Dunlavin, County Wicklow. www.rathsallagh.com. 800/323-5463 in the U.S., or 045/403112. Fax 045/403343. 31 units. €240–€320 double. Rates include full breakfast. Fixed-price menu €65. AE, DC, MC, V. Closed Dec 23–31. Amenities: Restaurant; lounge/bar; 18-hole championship golf course; small indoor pool; sauna; tennis court. In room: Wi-Fi, TV/DVD, DVD library, hair dryer.

Ritz-Carlton at Powerscourt ★★ This creamy, crescent-shaped Palladian hotel a sheep’s leap from Powerscourt House is a thing of beauty, surrounded by sprawling gardens and golf courses that stretch as far as the eye can see. Throughout the hotel no expense has been spared. Spacious guest rooms are equipped with feather beds, while bathrooms have marble baths and Rainforest showers. Throw in a swimming pool lighted with Swarovski crystal chandeliers and two championship golf courses and you can see why this place attracted attention when it opened in 2008, just before the Irish economic bubble burst. In a way it stands as a monument to that culture of excess. There’s an elegant spa should you need help relaxing, and the hotel restaurant, Gordon Ramsey at Powerscourt, comes highly recommended, though it’s not cheap. Happily, there are four other restaurants and bars in the hotel to choose from.

Powerscourt Estate, Enniskerry, County Wicklow. www.ritzcarlton.com. 01/274-8888. Fax 01/274-9999. 200 units. €250–€300 double. Rates include full breakfast and VAT. AE, DC, MC, V. Amenities: 3 restaurants; bar; 2 18-hole championship golf courses; indoor pool; sauna; spa; tennis court. In room: TV/DVD, hair dryer, minibar, Wi-Fi (free).

Tinakilly Country House & Restaurant ★★ Tinakilly is designed to spoil you with luxurious rooms, sweeping views, and an award-winning restaurant. The building dates from the 1870s when it was the home of a sea captain—its central staircase is said to be the twin of the one on his ship. Rooms are done in Victorian style; many have four-poster or canopy beds. The Captain’s Suites are grand, with enormous bathrooms, while standard doubles are small but well decorated, albeit with tiny bathrooms. The restaurant is highly rated, so gourmets will want to dine in, rather than heading to the nearby village of Rathnew. Breakfast here earns raves.

On R750, off the Dublin-Wexford rd. (N11), Rathnew, County Wicklow. www.tinakilly.ie. 800/525-4800 in the U.S., or 0404/69274. Fax 0404/67806. 51 units. €200 double. Rates include full breakfast and VAT. AE, DC, MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant; lounge. In room: TV, radio, hair dryer.

EXPENSIVE

Glenview Hotel Located in the poetically named Glen of the Downs, this country hotel is a handy alternative for those looking to get away from it all. A 10-minute drive from Powerscourt House at the edge of the Wicklow Mountains, the hotel is surrounded by gardens and woodlands, perfect for a post-dinner stroll. The spacious bedrooms are decorated in light, pastel tones with marble bathrooms. There are family rooms for those travelling with kids. Deluxe and executive rooms have views of the glen (but you’ll pay extra for that), and a full-service spa, the Haven, offers decadent treatments. Its leisure club and pool offer a supervised kids club from 9am to 9pm during the summer—handy for when you want to escape for an hour or two for a massage. Check the website for discounts and package deals.

Glen of the Downs, Delgany, County Wicklow. www.glenviewhotel.com. 01/287-3399. Fax 01/287-7511. 70 units. €190–€240 double. Rates include full breakfast. AE, MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; gym; Jacuzzi; pool; steam room; full-service spa. In room: AC (in some), TV, hair dryer, Wi-Fi (free).

Kilgraney Country House ★ A striking mix of old and new gives this lovely stone building its flavor. In the public areas, solid, Irish-made antiques are balanced with vivid works of contemporary art and pieces of modern furniture. A tiny spa in a restored apple storehouse offers aromatherapy massage to work out the kinks. Rooms are soothing and minimalist, with lots of creative touches and pieces of modern art. Dinner, served on a long communal table of black Kilkenny marble, is also a fusion of the exotic and the traditional, and the conversation it inspires can last well into the night. Breakfasts are varied—perhaps raisin-and-orange pancakes as a first course, and more standard second-course offerings of scrambled eggs with salmon.

Just off the R705 (L18), 5.6km (31⁄2 miles) from Bagenalstown on the Borris rd., Bagenalstown, County Carlow. www.kilgraneyhouse.com. 059/977-5283. 6 units, all with private bathroom, 4 with shower only. €170–€280 double. Rates include full breakfast. 6-course fixed-price dinner €52 (€54 nonguests). AE, MC, V. Closed Nov–Feb. Children 11 and under not accepted. Amenities: Lounge; smoke-free rooms; spa. In room: TV, hair dryer.

MODERATE

Ballyknocken Guesthouse Hotel & Cookery School ★ The clue’s in the name: It’s all about the food here. You don’t have to take any of owner and TV chef Catherine Byrne’s cooking courses during your stay, but you certainly won’t want to miss dinner. She prepares mouth-watering, contemporary meals using ingredients from her own garden and the local farm. The bedrooms are midsize and charmingly decorated with a hodgepodge of antiques; in a nice touch, all the bathrooms have original Victorian roll-top tubs. Another alternative is the Milking Parlour, a two-bedroom self-catering loft that sleeps up to six. It’s available by the week at a cost of €56 per person, per night. Cooking courses cost around €80 to €100 for a half-day; see the website for the full (extensive) list. Ballyknocken makes a good base for exploring the Wicklow Mountains, and Catherine can provide plenty of information on hiking in the area.

Glenealy, Ashford, County Wicklow. www.ballyknocken.com. 0404/44627. 70 units. €139 double. Rates include full breakfast. 4-course dinner Mon–Sat €47. AE, MC, V. In room: TV, hair dryer.

The Lord Bagenal ★ This storybook country inn begs to be photographed, with its old stone archway and lovely setting at the leafy edge of the Barrow River. Inside, though, it’s a bit brutally modern, which can come as a surprise, but rooms are pleasantly decorated in neutral fabrics with fluffy comforters. At night, the award-winning restaurant delivers French-influenced classics created with fresh local produce. Overall, this is a great address to know about when you want to unwind and be comforted.

Main St., Leighlinbridge, County Carlow. www.lordbagenal.com. 059/977-4000. 12 units. €90–€150 double. Rates include full breakfast. MC, V. Amenities: 2 Restaurants; pub. In room: TV, hair dryer, room service, Wi-Fi (free).

Lorum Old Rectory ★ Set well back from the road and surrounded by undulating pastures in the serene Barrow Valley, the Old Rectory is a weathered and welcoming place. The bedrooms are spacious and comfortable, but not at all fancy, although some have big four-poster and canopy beds. Most rooms have calming views of the lush Carlow countryside. There’s a small gift shop just for guests, displaying the work of local artists. Good dinners are on offer if you book in advance.

Just off the R705 (L18), 7km (41⁄3 miles) from Bagenalstown on the Borris rd., Bagenalstown, County Carlow. www.lorum.com. 059/977-5282. Fax 059/977-5455. 5 units, all with private bathroom with shower only. €150–€170 double. Rates include full breakfast. Dinner (must be booked by noon) €48. AE, MC, V. Closed Dec–Feb. In room: TV, hair dryer.

INEXPENSIVE

An Óige Glendaloch International Hostel ★ Location, location—this An Óige (Irish Youth Hostel Association) hostel has a prime location right near the Glendalough ruins and lakes, with spectacular views. It was renovated a few years ago, so everything’s clean and comfortable, if a tad sterile. There’s no curfew, but doors are locked between noon and 5pm. A full breakfast is available for €7.50, and packed lunch for €6. Dinner is a slightly less reliable affair; although it’s good value (a three-course meal costs just €13) it’s available only to groups of 10 or more. Otherwise, you’ll have to head to Laragh, 1.6km (1 mile) away. The Irish Writers’ Centre of Dublin hosts traditional music and poetry sessions at the hostel three times a week during the summer months, and live music fills the bar every Saturday night. It’s got a great vibe, attracting people of all ages.

Glendalough (follow the signs for Glendalough; the hostel is on the road to the upper lake). www.anoige.ie. 0404/45342. €16–€25 per person dorms; €51–€56 per room double, twin. No credit cards. Amenities: Restaurant; Internet.

Sherwood Park House This big, grand, 18th-century Georgian country house looms four stories high and has memorable views of the green countryside from every window. Its four guest rooms are all spacious—two on the second floor also have small, adjoining twin rooms, making them perfect for families. Rooms have four-poster and half-tester beds done up in well-chosen fabrics. Bathrooms are a bit out of date, but neat and clean. A peat fire warms the attractive guest sitting room, with its old piano in the corner. Dinner is served in the high-ceilinged dining room; conversation tends to be lively as everyone sits together at one long polished table.

Kilbride, Ballon, County Carlow (off the N80, 3km/2 miles south of Ballon). www.sherwoodparkhouse.ie. 059/913-9117. 4 units. €100 double. Dinner €40. AE, MC, V. In room: TV.

Tudor Lodge Well located on the slopes of the Wicklow Mountains, this guesthouse makes a good base for ramblers and a peaceful getaway for those who are simply looking to escape the noise of ordinary life. The whitewashed decor is clean and crisp, and most bedrooms are spacious and all are simply decorated—each has a small desk, as well as both a double and a single bed (this makes the smaller rooms a bit of a squeeze). The dining room and living room have large windows overlooking green meadows and mountains. In the summer, you can relax on the stone terrace or riverside patio. At breakfast choose from a small but good selection of options. The restaurants and pubs of Laragh are a short, scenic walk away.

Laragh, County Wicklow. www.tudorlodgeireland.com. 086/875-9387. 6 units, all with private bathroom, shower only. €80 double. MC, V. Amenities: Smoke-free rooms; Wi-Fi. In room: TV, hair dryer.

Tynte House ★ This handsome 19th-century family farm complex near the tiny town of Dunlavin in western Wicklow has a good mix of rooms, apartment units, and private stone cottages. All are cleverly designed, with bright, tasteful color schemes, light-pine furniture, and spacious tiled bathrooms. The no. 3 mews house and the open-plan apartment are our favorites (for both the light they receive and the country house decor), but none are likely to disappoint. This place is great for families, with a grassy play area and treehouse, a barbecue grill and picnic tables, tennis courts, and a game room with Ping-Pong and pool tables. Prices depend on the season and the size of the cottage.

Dunlavin center, County Wicklow. www.tyntehouse.com. 045/401561. Fax 045/401586. 8 units. B&B €70–€110 double; self-catering units €245–€550 per week. Dinner €25. Packed lunches €8. AE, MC, V. In room: TV, kitchen.

Wicklow Way Lodge ★★ This gorgeous little B&B has some famous fans—Matthew McConaughey stayed here a few years back—and a devoted following among regular visitors to the region. Set amid peaceful farmland just a few miles down the road from Glendalough, the lodge is a modern building, with big windows to take full advantage of the sprawling mountain views (ask for a room at the front). Owners Seamus and Marilyn Kinlan make warm hosts, and the guest rooms are spacious and comfortable, with lots of polished wood, and radiant heating. The only downside is that you can’t have dinner here, although the Kinlans can suggest plenty of places nearby. Breakfasts, on the other hand, are legendary—don’t even think of not trying the oatmeal. Wicklow Lodge is a wonderful find, less than an hour’s drive from Dublin.

Oldbridge, Roundwood, County Wicklow. www.wicklowwaylodge.com. 01/281-8489. 5 units. €90 double; €100 double with balcony. AE, MC, V. Rates include full breakfast. In room: TV, hair dryer.

SELF-CATERING

Kippure Estate This grand, 96-hectare (240-acre) countryside estate is a kind of peaceful haven of forest and pasture. There are 20 cottages for rent, with some sleeping up to eight people. The cottages are sympathetically designed to blend in with the rustic surroundings, and each is spacious and filled with natural light. Although they are modern and well equipped, each has a wood-burning stove as well. The cottages may be a little close together for those seeking isolation; it’s effectively a village, set against a stunning backdrop of trees and mountains. If you prefer, you can stay instead in the main Kippure Lodge (€70 per night for a double room). You can take part in a variety of activities on the estate, such as the “Sky Trek,” a supervised course involving rope bridges and zip wires (€49 per person).

Manor Kilbride, Blessington, County Wicklow. www.kippure.com. 01/458-2889. 20 cottages. €380–€890 per week; €250–€540 weekend. Extra charge for stays that include a bank holiday. AE, MC, V. In room: TV, kitchen.

Wicklow Head Lighthouse ★★ This 18th-century lighthouse on rocky Wicklow Head makes an unusual getaway. The Irish Landmark Trust (ILT), whose mission is to rescue neglected historic buildings, has transformed the old lighthouse into a kind of coastal show home. The interior is chic rustic with whitewashed walls, pine furniture, brass beds, and well-chosen nautical memorabilia. Each of the six floors holds one octagonal space, including two double bedrooms, and one bathroom. There are 109 calorie-burning steps up to the kitchen, which is on the top floor. Every window has a dazzling ocean view, and the sitting room comes complete with a telescope—great for watching seals frolicking below. As with all ILT properties, there is no TV. Note: The spiral staircase that corkscrews up the tower is not suitable for people with mobility problems, or for children 4 and under.

Wicklow, County Wicklow. Contact the Irish Landmark Trust at www.irishlandmark.com. 01/670-4733. Fax 01/670-4887. €495 for 4 nights in low season, sliding up to €1,575 per week in high season. MC, V.

Where to Eat

EXPENSIVE

Backstage @ Bel’s MODERN EUROPEAN There’s more than a whiff of showbiz about this theatrical place. You can get breakfast and lunch here, but the real attraction is the evening menu. It’s arranged not as the traditional “starter,” “main,” and “dessert” but “Act One,” “Act Two,” and so on. It’s all in the spirit of fun, and the atmosphere is warm and friendly. Typical mains include wild sea bass with crushed potatoes, and orange and fennel salad, or filet of Wicklow beef with garlic butter, baked field mushrooms, and hand-cut fries. Where possible, the ingredients are sourced locally—and the coffee and tea are fair trade. Desserts are exceptional: Try the hot chocolate fondant with candied orange and pistachio ice cream.

Bel House, Church Rd., Greystones, County Wicklow. 01/201-6990. www.bels.ie. Reservations recommended. Fixed-price menu (Tues–Fri 5–7pm) 2 courses €20; main courses €17–€28. MC, V. Daily 9am–10pm (dinner from 5pm).

Chakra by Jaipur ★ INDIAN This place suffers a little from an unromantic location, stuck inside a shopping mall in Greystones’ main shopping district, but the food is outstanding. The menu employs the risky strategy of using a touch of Irish ingredients to complement the traditional Indian curries and biryanis, but manages not to stray too far from authenticity in doing so. Try the hyderabadi murgh—grilled free-range chicken in yogurt and caramelized onion sauce with a touch of lavender, of all things. Or sample the spicy crab chili masala: Dingle bay crab with coriander, green chilies, coconut, and lime.

1st Floor, Meridian Point, Church Rd., Greystones, County Wicklow. 01/201-7222. Reservations recommended. Fixed-price menus €30–€45; main courses €15–€26. MC, V. Daily 5–11pm.

Gordon Ramsey at Powerscourt ★ MODERN EUROPEAN Celebrity chef Gordon Ramsey emphasizes fresh local produce at this elegant restaurant in the Ritz-Carlton Powerscourt. Diners can take in lavish views of green Wicklow while they have their every culinary need catered to by Ramsey’s famously well-chosen and trained waitstaff. The menu changes daily, but options might include such items as foie gras with almond, chocolate, and cherries; Clare Island salmon with lobster ravioli; fresh local fish with crab, avocado, and mango salad; or king crab with shellfish risotto and mascarpone mousse. You could also have the four-course chef’s “surprise” menu (€85), and let the experts decide what’s best that night. Make reservations well in advance, as (economic crisis or no) the Dublin glitterati helicopter in for dinner.

Ritz-Carlton Powerscourt, Powerscourt Estate, Enniskerry, County Wicklow. 01/274-8888. www.ritzcarlton.com. Reservation recommended. Fixed-price menus €85–€130; main courses €38–€42. AE, MC, V. Daily 11:30am–2pm and 6:30–10pm.

The Strawberry Tree ★★★ GOURMET ORGANIC A past winner of the Irish Food & Wine’s best restaurant award, this place has gone from innovative to iconic in a few years. Only wild and organic foods are the ingredients in the memorable meals served in the chic dining room. Starters might include smoked organic beef with wild colts foot, local smoked salmon rillettes with wild sorrel, or wild wood pigeon terrine with strawberry jam. Then there could be beef filet with beets in a balsamic jus; or wild guinea fowl with dried fruit compote. If you’re feeling sociable, ask to be seated at the “big table,” where dishes (from a special, set menu) are presented “feast style” for you and up to 40 other diners to share. From Rathdrum, follow signs for Aughrim and then 3km (2 miles) to Macreddin Village and the BrookLodge & Wells Spa.

BrookLodge, Macreddin Village (btw. Aughrim and Aghavannagh), County Wicklow. 0402/36444. www.brooklodge.com. Reservations required. Fixed-price dinner €65; Sun lunch €40. MC, V. Tues–Sat 7–9:30pm; Sun 1:30–3:30pm and 7–9pm. (Closed Mon, Tues, and Wed Nov–Mar)

Tinakilly Country House Hotel ★★ MODERN IRISH This excellent restaurant, which Bon Appétit magazine once called “a beacon to restore hope to the traveler’s heart,” has won as many accolades as the hotel to which it belongs. The table d’hôte menu changes daily and is confidently balanced—sophisticated without being fussy. The service, too, is precise and intuitive. Dishes can include pan-fried rump of lamb with roasted vegetables and gratin potato, or duck breast with red-onion marmalade and red currant jus. If dinner here is out of your budget, consider coming for a light lunch (1–3pm) or afternoon tea (3–5pm).

In Tinakilly Country House, Rathnew, County Wicklow (on R750, off the N11). 0404/69274. www.tinakilly.ie. Reservations recommended. Dinner main courses €28–€34. AE, DC, MC, V. Dinner: Sun–Thurs 6–8:30pm; Fri–Sat 7:30–9:30pm. Lunch: Mon–Fri 12:30–2:30pm; Sat–Sun 1–3:30pm.

MODERATE

Poppies Country Cooking IRISH As the name implies, this is a friendly, casual place to get a bite to eat in Enniskerry. The food is simple fare (stews, sandwiches, soups, and meat pies), but is homemade and a cut above most such fare. The cakes are excellent, so it’s worth stopping in for a cup of tea and a scone in the afternoon. A second branch of Poppies is in the Dundrum Town Centre, County Dublin ( 01/296-0629).

The Square, Enniskerry, County Wicklow. 01/282-8869. www.poppies.ie. Main courses €13–€20. MC, V. Daily 8:30am–6pm.

Roundwood Inn ★ MODERN IRISH/CONTINENTAL A fixture in tiny Roundwood village for more than 25 years, this cozy old inn is a delightful, snug place with shadowy rooms and huge roaring fires. There are effectively two restaurants here; tasty bar food is served in the main pub area (roast chicken and chips and Westphalian ham and salad are typical dishes) while adjoining is the full-service restaurant. The vibe in here is laid-back and charmingly rough around the edges, while the food is a sophisticated and unusual take on Irish classics, with a Pan-European (mostly German) twist. Mains could include Wicklow lamb, roast suckling pig with schnitzel, or a memorable Irish stew, in addition to impeccably presented seafood, fresh from the bays of Dublin and Galway. In good weather, there’s seating in a secluded garden.

Roundwood, County Wicklow. 01/281-8107. Reservations required in restaurant. Main courses €9–€19. AE, MC, V. Bar food daily noon–9:30pm. Restaurant Fri–Sat 7:30–9pm; Sun 1–2pm. No children after 6:30pm.

INEXPENSIVE

Avoca Handweavers Tea Shop ★ BISTRO/VEGETARIAN Forget for a moment that this is an informal cafeteria—at a tourist magnet, no less. It is a great place to eat and it delivers a good, healthy meal. The menu changes daily, but starters might include pea-and-mint soup or a crisp Caesar salad. Main courses could be sesame-glazed chicken, honey-roasted ham, Mediterranean sweet frittata, or smoked Wicklow trout. The tea shop attracts a loyal local clientele with its perfect pastries.

Avoca, County Wicklow. 0402/35105. Lunch €5–€13. AE, DC, MC, V. Daily 9am–5:30pm (5pm in winter).

Grangecon Café ★ CAFE This is a handy little place to grab a light lunch or a snack. Try one of the beautifully prepared quiches, salads, and sandwiches, or indulge in the fresh cakes and pastries and a cup of tea.

Kilbride Rd., Blessington, County Wicklow. 045/857892. Sandwiches, panini, and wraps €8; lunch main courses €9–€13. MC, V. Mon–Wed 9am–4pm; Thurs–Sat 9am–5pm. Closed Sun and bank holidays.

Pubs

The Coach House Adorned with hanging flowerpots, this Tudor-style inn is sweet, surrounded by mountains in picturesque Roundwood. The 18th-century pub is full of local memorabilia, and makes a pleasant stop for pub food and a drink. Guest rooms go for €95 per night. Main St., Roundwood, County Wicklow. 01/281-8157. www.thecoachhouse.ie.

Johnnie Fox’s This sprawling pub in little Glencullen is endlessly popular. Their 4-hour “Hooley” combines dinner with traditional music and dancing. There’s also live music in the bar every night, and a separate restaurant for those who don’t want to throw themselves too enthusiastically into the craic. It’s crowded on weekends, but the food is good and the crowd is friendly. Main St., Rathdrum, County Wicklow. 01/295-5647. www.jfp.ie.

The Meetings This quaint country-cottage pub stands idyllically at the “Meeting of the Waters” in the Vale of Avoca. Good pub grub is served daily, with traditional Irish music from April to October, every Sunday afternoon (4–6pm) and weekend nights all year. Avoca, County Wicklow. 0402/35226.

COUNTY KILDARE: IRELAND’S HORSE COUNTRY

24–48km (15–30 miles) W of Dublin

The flatlands of Kildare are rich in more ways than one. The soil is lush and fertile, producing miles of green pastures perfect for raising horses, and the population is one of the most affluent in the country, with plenty of cash for buying horses. Driving through the smooth rolling hills, home to sleek thoroughbreds, you’ll notice a similarity to the green grass of Kentucky—in fact, the county is twinned with Lexington, Kentucky. This is the home of the Curragh, the racetrack where the Irish Derby is held, and of smaller tracks at Naas and Punchestown.

Once the stronghold of the Fitzgerald Clan, Kildare comes from the Irish cill dara, or “Church of the Oak Tree,” a reference to St. Brigid’s monastery, which once sat in the county, surrounded by oak trees. Brigid was a bit ahead of her time as an early exponent for women’s equality—she founded her coed monastery in the 5th or 6th century.

Essentials

GETTING THERE Irish Rail ( 01/836-6222; www.irishrail.ie) provides daily train service to Kildare.

Bus Éireann ( 01/836-6111; www.buseireann.ie) operates daily express bus service to Kildare from Dublin and elsewhere in Ireland.

By car, take the main Dublin-Limerick road (N7) west of Dublin from Kildare, or the main Dublin-Galway road (N4) to Celbridge, turning off on local road R403.

VISITOR INFORMATION Contact the Wicklow Tourist Office, Fitzwilliam Square, Wicklow Town ( 0404/69117). It’s open year-round Monday to Friday, and Saturday during peak season. You can get general tourist information in the Kildare Heritage Centre, Market Square, Kildare Town, County Kildare ( 045/530672).

Seeing the Sights

Castletown ★★ This spectacular Palladian-style mansion has been imitated many times across Ireland over the centuries. It was the first house in this style built in the country (it was built between 1722 and 1729), designed by Italian architect Alessandro Galilei for then-speaker of the Irish House of Commons William Connolly. Today, it’s beautifully maintained and the fully restored interior is worth the price of admission. The two glorious follies on the grounds—both commissioned by William Connolly’s wife, Louisa, were built as make-work for the starving population during the famine. One is a graceful obelisk, the other is the extraordinarily playful barn, created as a slightly crooked inverted funnel, around which winds a stone staircase. Its name, appropriately enough, is the “Wonderful Barn.”

R403, off main Dublin-Galway rd. (N4), Celbridge, County Kildare. 01/628-8252. www.castletownhouse.ie. Admission (guided tour only) €4.50 adults; €3.50 seniors, students, and children; €13 families; free for children 4 and under. No cameras. April–Oct Tues–Sun 10am–4:45pm.

The Curragh ★★ This is the country’s best-known racetrack, majestically placed at the edge of Ireland’s central plain, and home to the Irish Derby, held every spring. Races are on at least one Saturday a month from March to October. The track has rail links with all major towns, and Irish Rail runs directly to it from Dublin (Heuston Station) for around €15, including courtesy coach to the main entrance. There’s also a “Racing Bus” from Dublin (Busáras) each race day. Call Bus Éireann for details ( 01/836-6111; www.buseireann.ie).

Dublin-Limerick rd. (N7), Curragh, County Kildare. 045/441205. www.curragh.ie. Admission €15–€20 for most racing days; €15–€120 on derby days. AE, DC, MC, V. Hours vary; 1st race usually 2pm, but check newspaper sports pages.

Irish National Stud with Japanese Gardens & St. Fiachra’s Garden ★★ Some of Ireland’s fastest horses have been bred on the grounds of this government-sponsored stud farm. Horse lovers and racing fans will be in heaven walking around the 383-hectare (946-acre) grounds watching the well-groomed horses being trained. A converted groom’s house has exhibits on racing, steeplechase, hunting, and show jumping, plus a rather macabre display featuring the skeleton of Arkle, one of Ireland’s most famous horses.

There’s a peaceful Japanese garden ★ dating from 1906, with pagodas, ponds, and trickling streams. There’s also a beautifully designed visitor center with a restaurant and shop. The Commemorative Garden of St. Fiachra, in a natural setting of woods, wetlands, lakes, and islands, opened in 1999. The reconstructed hermitage has a Waterford crystal garden of rocks, ferns, and delicate glass orchids.

Off the Dublin-Limerick rd. (N7), Tully, Kildare, County Kildare. 045/522963. www.irish-national-stud.ie. Admission €11 adults; €8 seniors and students; €6 children 5–16; €27 families; free for children 4 and under. MC, V. Mid-Feb to late Dec daily 9:30am–5pm. Last admission 3:30pm; parking lot locked at 6:30pm sharp. Bus: From Busáras, Dublin, each morning, returning each evening.

The Irish Pewtermill In an 11th-century mill originally constructed for the nunnery of St. Moling, Ireland’s oldest pewter mill makes for a nice diversion. Six skilled craftsmen cast pewter in antique molds, some of which are 300 years old. Casting takes place most days, usually in the morning. The showroom has a wide selection of high-quality, hand-cast pewter gifts for sale, from bowls to brooches, at reasonable prices. There’s a set of excellent reproductions of the principal panels from Moone High Cross (see the listing below), with explanatory plaques. They’re helpful in further understanding and appreciating the ancient carvings.

Timolin-Moone (signposted off N9 in Moone), County Kildare. 059/862-4164. timolinpewter@tinet.ie. Free admission. Mon–Fri 10am–4:30pm; Sat–Sun 11am–4pm.

Larchill Arcadian Garden ★ This unusual farm garden is the only surviving “ornamental farm” in Europe and it was nearly lost forever after it fell into decay in the 1970s and 1980s. Luckily, it was restored in the late 1990s. Products of the Romantic Movement, these hybrid farms were popular in the 18th century, and Larchill is a marvelous example of the movement’s art for art’s sake ethos. All around the working farm are little things of beauty: a lake dotted with delightful Gothic follies; wooded nature trails; meadows stocked with emus and llamas; a walled garden with geese, and peacocks. There’s even a resident ghost haunting a medieval tower. Kids will not be bored here, as there’s an adventure trail with traditional games, a playground and sand pit, and guinea pigs and rabbits to pet. Snacks and ice cream are available in the tearoom.

Kilcock, County Kildare (signposted off N4 near Maynooth). 01/628-7354. www.larchill.ie. Admission €7.50 adults; €5.50 children; €28 families. May (holiday weekends only, including Mon) and Sept Sat–Sun noon–6pm; June–Aug Thurs–Sun (and holiday weekends Sat–Mon) noon–6pm.

Moone High Cross ★ Amid the picturesque ruins of Moone Abbey, this magnificent high cross is nearly 1,200 years old. The abbey, established by St. Columba in the 6th century, is in evocative ruins around it. The cross features finely crafted Celtic designs as well as biblical scenes: the temptation of Adam and Eve, the sacrifice of Isaac, and Daniel in the lions’ den. Among the carvings are several surprises, such as a carving of a Near Eastern fish that reproduces when the male feeds the female her own eggs, which eventually hatch from her mouth.

Moone, County Kildare (signposted off N9 on southern edge of Moone village).

Newbridge Silverware For 60 years, this has been Ireland’s leading manufacturer of fine silverware. The visitor center has displays of place settings, bowls, candelabras, trays, frames, and one-of-a-kind items; and if you like it all too much to leave it behind, you can stock up at the shop.

Off Dublin-Limerick rd. (N7), Newbridge, County Kildare. 045/431301. Free admission. Mon–Sat 9am–6pm; Sun 11am–5pm.

St. Brigid’s Cathedral This 13th-century church stands on the site of St. Brigid’s monastery, which was founded in the 5th century. The church, which dominates central Kildare, is a beautiful building with exquisite stained-glass windows portraying Ireland’s three great saints: Patrick, Colmcille, and Brigid. The round tower on the grounds dates to the 10th century, and is the second tallest in the country (33m/108 ft.). Somewhere down the line, its pointed roof was replaced by a Norman turret. If the groundskeeper is in, you can climb the stairs to the top for €4. There’s a strange-looking stone with a hole at the top near the tower; it’s known as the “wishing stone”—according to lore, if you put your arm through the hole and touch your shoulder when you make a wish, then your wish will come true.

Market Sq., Kildare Town, County Kildare. 045/521229. Suggested donation €1.50; admission to round tower €4. May–Sept Mon–Sat 10am–1pm and 2–5pm; Sun 2–5pm.

Steam Museum Celebrating the age of steam, this museum contains two collections: The Richard Guinness Hall has prototypical locomotive engines dating from the 18th century, and the Power Hall has rare industrial stationary engines. The engines are turned on fairly regularly—if you’re interested, call ahead to find out times. The museum is inside an old church, outside of which an 18th-century walled garden wanders through several verdant spaces to a delightful rose garden. The shop stocks a variety of recent books and videos on the Irish Railway.

Straffan, County Kildare (signposted off N7 at Kill Village). 01/627-3155. www.steam-museum.com. Admission to museum and gardens €7.50 adults; €5 seniors, children, and students; €20 families. June–Aug and public holidays Wed–Sun 2–6pm; May and Sept by arrangement.

ST. BRIGID: EARLY feminist

Feminists have embraced this 5th-century saint for decades. Brigid was a headstrong girl who fought against the oppressive rules of her time. When her father picked a husband for her, she refused to marry him. Legend holds that when her father insisted that the wedding should go forward, she pulled out her own eye to prove she was strong enough to resist his plans. He backed down, and the mutilated girl joined a convent, but when she took her vows the bishop accidentally ordained her as a bishop rather than a nun. It is said that as soon as that happened, she was miraculously made beautiful again.

As she grew older, Brigid remained a rebel. She founded a monastery in Kildare, but insisted that it be open to both nuns and monks—something that was extraordinary at that time. Unsurprisingly, word of the monastery, and of its unusual abbess, soon spread throughout Europe and she became a powerful figure in European Christianity. Her followers marked their homes with a plain cross woven from river reeds, and you’ll still find crosses, made in precisely that way, in some Irish homes.

One of Brigid’s strangest rules for her monastery was that there should always be a fire kept burning, day and night, tended by 20 virgins. Long after she died, the fire at St. Brigid’s burned constantly, tended as she said it should be. This continued as late as 1220, when the bishop of Dublin insisted that the tradition, which he viewed as pagan, be stopped. But there is still a fire pit at St. Brigid’s Cathedral, and a fire is lit in it every February 1, on St. Brigid’s feast day.

Sports & Outdoor Pursuits

CYCLING Kildare’s flat-to-rolling landscape is perfect for gentle cycling. Sadly, most organized tours bypass Kildare for regions with more diverse scenery, but you can always plan your own route. Bike rental shops are surprisingly few in County Kildare, but you could try Cahill Cycles, Fishery Lane, Naas ( 045/881-585), or Celbridge Cycle, Main Street, Celbridge ( 01/627-4023). Alternatively, you could rent a bike in Dublin.

GOLF The flat plains here create excellent parkland layouts, including two 18-hole championship courses. If your wallet is padded, the Arnold Palmer–designed, par-72 Kildare Hotel & Country Club (also known as the K Club), Straffan ( 01/601-7200; www.kclub.com), has two courses, with greens fees ranging from €90 to €380 for nonresidents in high season, depending on tee time. For a less costly game, the par-70 Kilkea Castle Golf Club, Castledermot ( 059/914-5555; www.kilkeacastlegolfresort.ie), charges €40 Monday to Thursday, €50 Friday to Sunday. Kilkea also does four-course golf and meal packages. Or try the par-72 championship course at the Curragh Golf Club, Curragh ( 045/441714; www.curraghgolf.com), with greens fees of €25 weekdays, €35 weekends.

HORSEBACK RIDING Visitors can expect to pay an average of €25 per hour for trekking or trail riding in the Kildare countryside. To arrange a ride, contact the Kill International Equestrian Centre, Kill ( 045/877-333; www.killinternational.ie).

WALKING The way-marked Grand Canal Way is a long-distance walking path that cuts through part of Kildare. Its flatness makes it ideal for beginners and for walkers who lack ambition. The canal passes through plenty of scenic towns, such as Sallins, Robertstown, and Edenderry, where you can find a room and stock up on provisions. For more information, contact the tourist office.

Where to Stay

VERY EXPENSIVE

Kildare Hotel & Country Club ★ The darling of the affluent, sporty set, Kildare is most famous for its 18-hole Arnold Palmer–designed golf course that hosted the Ryder Cup in 2006. A 45-minute drive from Dublin, this 132-hectare (326-acre), no-expense-spared resort makes a luxurious base from which to visit Dublin and the sights of Kildare. The surroundings are gorgeous and the service excellent, but the atmosphere here is more formal and less relaxed than at some of Ireland’s other manor hotels. A Georgian mansion serves as the main hotel, although guest rooms are spread out among several buildings—all sumptuously appointed with luxurious fabrics. The main restaurant, the French-focused Byerley Turk, is very formal, but given how much the rooms cost that’s no surprise. Men will want a jacket and tie for dinner. You can adjourn for drinks in the library—it’s a showcase for an extraordinary collection of Jack B. Yeats paintings.

Straffan, County Kildare. www.kclub.com. 800/221-1074 in the U.S., or 01/601-7200. Fax 01/601-7297. 95 units. €500–€625 double; €825–€7,500 suite. AE, DC, MC, V. Amenities: 3 restaurants; pub; babysitting; concierge; 18-hole golf course; gym; indoor pool; room service; sauna; 2 indoor and 2 outdoor tennis courts. In room: A/C, TV, DVD, hair dryer, minibar.

EXPENSIVE

Barberstown Castle ★★ This sturdy castle has overlooked Kildare for more than 750 years. Its five segments—constructed in the 13th, 16th, 18th, 20th, and 21st centuries—somehow form a coherent and pleasing whole. Each luxurious guest room is named after one of the castle’s former lords or proprietors. They begin with Nicholas Barby, who constructed the battlemented rectangular castle keep in the 13th century, and include the guitarist Eric Clapton, who once owned the place. All the rooms are warm and cozy, with sitting areas, antiques, and spacious bathrooms. Some have four-poster beds. Two-bedroom family spaces are available, as is a room designed for guests with disabilities.

Straffan, County Kildare. www.barberstowncastle.ie. 800/323-5463 in the U.S., or 01/628-8157. 58 units. €240–€290 double. Rates include full Irish breakfast. AE, DC, MC, V. Closed Jan–Feb. From Dublin, drive south on N7, take turn for Straffan at Kill; from west on N4, then turn for Straffan at Maynooth. Amenities: Restaurant; lounge; smoke-free rooms. In room: TV, hair dryer.

INEXPENSIVE

The Courtyard Hotel This is a warm, romantic hotel, where guest rooms are bright and contemporary. It’s a little lacking in character, but the huge comfortable beds more than make up for that. If, after whatever journey you’ve undertaken to arrive here, you happen to feel like a restoring pint of Guinness, then pat yourself on the back for appropriateness. This was the building where Arthur Guinness set up his first brewery in 1756—the bar is named “Arthur” in his honor. Tip: The bar can get a little loud on weekends, so ask for a quiet room when you book.

Main St., Leixlip, County Kildare. www.courtyard.ie. 01/629-5100. 40 units. €110–€140 double; €290 executive suite. Rates include full Irish breakfast. AE, MC, V. Amenities: 2 restaurants; bar. In room: TV, hair dryer, Wi-Fi.

Westgrove Hotel & Conference Centre This hotel doesn’t have a lot of character, but it is a good budget option just a few miles outside Dublin. Set near an unromantic shopping center, the exterior isn’t particularly alluring, but inside it’s a different story—the decor is sleek and modern, and the staff is welcoming. Bedrooms are spacious, with polished wood furniture and soothing white linens. Beds are comfortable, and the executive apartments are a good size for families with kids. The Exchange Restaurant is a local favorite for dinner, while the hotel spa offers Elemis therapies, and every treatment begins with a warm foot compress.

Clane, Naas, County Kildare. www.westgrovehotel.com. 045/989-900. 99 units. €80–€110 double; €150–€180 suite. Rates include full Irish breakfast. AE, MC, V. Amenities: 2 restaurants; 3 bars; gym; pool; full-service spa. In room: TV, DVD player (executive rooms only), hair dryer, free high-speed Internet.

Where to Eat

MODERATE

Ballymore Inn INTERNATIONAL This may look like a modest country restaurant, but the inspired cooking makes each dish a thing of beauty. The menu is varied yet unpretentious—typical mains might include grilled West Cork dry aged sirloin, or Duncannon salmon with fennel and dill sauce. The pizzas are often the most adventurous thing on the menu, with toppings such as Greek lamb with yogurt and mint winning points for originality. If all this sounds too adventurous, there’s a more limited menu on offer in the bar.

Ballymore Eustace, County Kildare (off the N81, southeast of Blessington). 045/864585. www.ballymoreinn.com. Reservations required. Main courses €19–€30; fixed-price menu 2 courses €28. MC, V. Restaurant daily 12:30–3pm and 6–9pm. Bar menu Mon–Fri 3–9pm; Sat 2–9pm; Sun 12:30–9pm.

Exchange Restaurant GRILL This long, narrow, bistro-style restaurant in the Westgrove Hotel is popular with locals for its straightforward, no-nonsense American-style menu, as well as its friendly atmosphere. This is a good place to go if you’re feeling like a reasonably priced sirloin steak, a burger, a steaming bowl of seafood chowder, or pan-fried salmon. It’s not fancy, but it’s reliably good. Its sister restaurant, Exchange Plus, also in the Westgrove, is a more sophisticated option.

Westgrove Hotel, Clane, Naas, County Kildare. 045/989-900. www.westgrovehotel.com. Main courses €16–€23. MC, V. Sun–Wed 5–10pm; Thurs–Fri 5–11pm; Sat 12:30–11pm.

Silken Thomas GRILL This historic inn is an old-world pub and an atmospheric restaurant with wooden floors and fires crackling in the hearth. The menu offers a good selection of soups, sandwiches, burgers, and salads, as well as steaks, roasts, mixed grills, and fresh seafood platters. Chapter 16, an upscale restaurant adjoining the lounge bar, is one of a growing list of side ventures at the Silken Thomas (along with a nightclub and an alcohol-free teen disco). If you can’t bear to leave, it has plain-but-nice guest rooms as well (€65 double).

The Square, Kildare, County Kildare. 045/522232. www.silkenthomas.com. Reservations recommended for dinner. Main courses €12–€27. AE, MC, V. Mon–Sat 12:30–2:30pm and 6–10pm; Sun 12:30–3pm and 6–9pm.

Pubs

The George Inn The back room of this pub is what makes it special. It was probably the kitchen of the original cottage, which would explain the huge fireplace with warm inglenooks and a brass-and-leather horse harness hanging over the mantel. Seating is random at a hodgepodge of cozy pine tables and chairs, and the atmosphere is welcoming and local. Prosperous, County Kildare. 045/861041.

The Moone High Cross Inn This big, 18th-century inn is ideal for a pit stop. There’s genuine hospitality and excellent pub food—bacon and cabbage, shepherd’s pie, all the classics—not to mention an open fire, finely pulled pints, and convivial conversation. If you really like the place, you can spend the night in one of its five en-suite rooms. Moone, County Kildare. 059/862-4112. www.moonehighcrossinnonline.com.

COUNTIES MEATH, LOUTH & THE BOYNE RIVER VALLEY

48–80km (30–50 miles) N and W of Dublin

Less than 48km (30 miles) north of Dublin along Ireland’s east coast runs the River Boyne, surrounded by the rich, fertile countryside of counties Meath and Louth. More than any other river in the country, this meandering body of water has been at the center of Irish history.

The banks of the Boyne hold reminders of Ireland’s ancient past in the extraordinary and mysterious prehistoric passage tombs of Newgrange and the storied Hill of Tara, once the seat of the high kings. This was the setting for the infamous Battle of the Boyne, when in July 1690, King William III defeated the exiled King James II for the crown of England.

Today its historic treasures are tucked away among miles of farmland, smooth, rolling hills, and modern Dublin suburbs.

Essentials

GETTING THERE Irish Rail ( 01/836-6222; www.irishrail.ie) provides daily train service between Dublin and Drogheda.

Bus Éireann ( 01/836-6111; www.buseireann.ie) operates daily express bus service to Slane and Navan in County Meath, and Collon and Drogheda in County Louth. Bus Éireann and Gray Line Tours ( 01/458-0054; www.irishcitytours.com) offer seasonal sightseeing tours to Newgrange and the Boyne Valley for around €35 for an adult.

By car, take the N1 north from Dublin City to Drogheda, then the N51 west to Boyne Valley; the N2 northwest to Slane and east on the N51 to Boyne Valley; or the N3 northwest via Hill of Tara to Navan, and then east on the N51 to Boyne Valley.

VISITOR INFORMATION Contact the Dundalk Tourist Office, Jocelyn Street, Dundalk, County Louth ( 042/933-5484); the Drogheda Tourist Office, Mayoralty Street, Drogheda, County Louth ( 041/983-7070); or the Bru na Boinne Center, Newgrange, Donore, County Meath ( 041/988-0300).

County Meath: The Royal County

The verdant pastures and low hills of Meath are Dublin’s closest northern neighbor. The farmland here is so rich that there’s an old Irish saying that a farm in Meath is worth two in any other county. With sheep grazing peacefully in green fields, Meath may look ordinary, but it holds remnants of Ireland’s mysterious past. It is also the site of the Hill of Tara—the Olympus of early Ireland where the kings of Ireland ruled.

By then, though, the county was already very old. Meath’s rich soil has attracted settlers for more than 8,000 years, and archaeologists have uncovered burial grounds and settlements that give fascinating insight into where and how they lived. The most intriguing of these is Newgrange, with its mysterious carvings and huge stone passage tombs. Nearby, the Hill of Slane, a lofty 150m (492-ft.) mound, overlooks one of the loveliest parts of the Boyne Valley. On this hill, tradition has it, Patrick lit the Christian paschal fire in direct defiance of the Irish King Laoghaire, throwing down the gauntlet for a confrontation between Ireland’s old and new religious orders.

The chief town of County Meath is Navan, but nearby Kells is better known to most travelers because of its association with the famous Book of Kells—the hand-illustrated gospel manuscript on display at Trinity College in Dublin. The town of Kells, known in Gaelic as Ceanannus Mor (“Great Residence”), was originally the site of an important 6th-century monastic settlement founded by St. Colmcille. The monastery was dissolved in 1551, and today only ruins and crosses survive.

Less than 40km (25 miles) southeast of Kells, beside the River Boyne, stand the alluring ruins of Bective Abbey, a Cistercian monastery founded in 1147. Today it feels more like a castle than a monastery; it is a great ruin, with myriad staircases, passageways, and chambers—a favorite hide-and-seek playground for local children, and perfect for a family picnic.

Even though Meath is primarily an inland county, it is also blessed with a stretch of coastline and two fine sandy beaches, Bettystown and Laytown. History pops up everywhere in County Meath, even on the beach: The Tara Brooch was found at Bettystown in 1850. Often copied in modern jewelry designs, the brooch is one of Ireland’s finest pieces of early Christian gold-filigree work, embellished with amber and glass. It’s on view at the National Museum in Dublin.

SEEING THE SIGHTS

Hill of Tara ★ This hill is a sentimental lure to the Irish diaspora, drawn by legends and folklore that place it at the center of early Irish history. Something about this nondescript green hill has always attracted people for spiritual reasons. Ancient tombs have been discovered on the hill that date from the Stone Age. Pagans believed that the goddess Maeve lived and reigned from here. By the 3rd century, it was home to the most powerful men in Ireland—the high kings. They had a ceremonial residence on the hill, and ruled as much by myth as by military strength. Every 3 years, a feis (a banquet reaching the proportions of a great national assembly) was held there. It’s said that more than 1,000 princes, poets, athletes, priests, druids, musicians, and jesters celebrated for a week. A feis wasn’t all fun and games: Laws were passed, disputes settled, and matters of defense decided. The last feis was held in the year 560. After that, Tara went into a decline as the power and popularity of Christianity rose. What’s left is not physically impressive—grassy mounds, some ancient pillar stones, and depressions where the Iron Age ring forts stood. All the wooden halls rotted long ago, so you’ll have to rely on your imagination. But it’s still a magnificent spot, with the hill rising 90m (295 ft.) above the surrounding countryside. A visitor center, with exhibits and a stirring film, is in the old church beside the entrance to the archaeological area. There’s no picnicking, but there is a coffee shop/tearoom.

Off the main Dublin rd. (N3), Navan, County Meath. 046/902-5903. Admission (visitor center) €3 adults; €2 seniors; €1.10 students and children; €8 families. Late May to mid-Sept daily 10am–6pm.

MODERN motorway CHANGES ANCIENT TARA LANDSCAPE

At the height of the Irish economic boom, the country’s insatiable hunger for construction, highways, and speed collided head-on with its ancient history when the government expanded the M3 motorway through the middle of the historic Tara Valley. The €1-billion road-building project resulted in passionate protests and extensive legal cases.

From the beginning the project was controversial. In 2007, Ireland’s minister for transportation dug a ceremonial shovel of earth at a groundbreaking event, but within weeks, a previously undiscovered ancient archaeological site was found directly in the road’s planned path. Many thought that this would stop the government’s plans. But it turned out that the government had already amended the National Monuments Act to allow for the demolition of national monuments.

The Tara valley is riddled with ceremonial sites virtually as old as the land itself. Most have yet to be explored by scientists. Archaeologists believe one of them—known as the Mound of the Hostages—dates from 3,000 B.C., making it as old as the pyramids.

It is now alleged that the Irish government has also drawn up plans to expand the N2 highway to within 500 meters of the ancient Newgrange complex. So the protests continue.

In 2010, the Hill of Tara was nominated to UNESCO to be a World Heritage Site, and listed as one of the 100 most endangered sites by the World Monuments Fund.

You can learn the latest on the battle between progress and history around Dublin by reading Irish newspapers or visiting www.savetara.com.

Knowth ★★ There is some debate over whether this site is more historically important than Newgrange. Both are Stone Age burial grounds, with complex passage tombs. Knowth’s tomb was closed to the public for many years as archaeologists explored its depths, but is now open, at least in part. It is a massively long passage—at 34m (112 ft.), it is longer than the one at Newgrange. Then, in 1968, archaeologists discovered a second passage tomb on the opposite side of the mound that was 6m (20 ft.) longer. In the mound itself, scientists found the largest collection of passage tomb art uncovered thus far in Europe, as well as a number of underground chambers and 300 carved slabs. The mound itself is surrounded by 17 satellite graves in a complex pattern. The meaning of it all remains shadowed in mystery, and even now, all of Knowth’s secrets have not been uncovered—excavation work is quite constant here, and you may get a chance to see the archaeologists at work. All tickets are issued at the visitor center. Combined tickets with Newgrange are available.

Near Drogheda, County Louth (1.6km/1 mile northwest of Newgrange). 041/988-0300. www.knowth.com. Admission to Knowth and Bru na Boinne Centre €5 adults; €3 seniors, students, and children 7 and over; €13 families. Combined ticket with Newrange €11 adults; €8 seniors; €6 children 7 and over; €28 families. Nov–Jan daily 9am–5pm; Feb–Apr and Oct daily 9:30am–5:30pm; May and mid- to late Sept daily 9am–6:30pm; June to mid-Sept daily 9am–7pm. Last admission 45 min. before closing.

Loughcrew ★ The 30 passage tombs of Loughcrew, also known as Slieve na Calliaghe or “The Hill of the Witch,” crown three hilltops in western Meath. From their summits, the views of the plains of Meath and the lakelands of Cavan are spectacular on a clear day. Two of the cairns—ornamented with Neolithic carvings—can be entered with a key. Guided tours of the cairns are offered from mid-June to mid-September. From mid-September to mid-June, between 10am and 4pm, the keys to both cairns are available from the Loughcrew Coffee Shop, which is in the parking lot. (Note: They ask for an expensive refundable deposit: €50, plus your passport or driver’s license.) There are gardens on-site for a fee, but admission is a bit steep. The cairns, however, are free.

Outside Oldcastle, County Meath. 049/854-1356. www.loughcrew.com. Cairns free, admission to gardens €8 adults; €5 seniors and students; €4.50 children; €20 families. Apr–Sept daily 10am–6pm; year-round Sun and bank holidays only 1–5pm. Key is available at other times. From N3, take R195 through Oldcastle toward Mullingar. 2.4km (11⁄2 miles) out of Oldcastle, look for a signposted left turn. The next left turn into Loughcrew is also signposted.

Newgrange ★★★ Ireland’s best-known prehistoric monument is one of the archaeological wonders of western Europe. Built as a burial mound more than 5,000 years ago—long before the Egyptian pyramids or Stonehenge—it sits atop a hill near the Boyne, massive and mysterious. The mound is 11m (36 ft.) tall, and approximately 78m (256 ft.) in diameter. It consists of 200,000 tons of stone, a 6-ton capstone, and other stones weighing up to 16 tons each, many of which were hauled from as far away as County Wicklow and the Mountains of Mourne. Each stone fits perfectly in the overall pattern, and the result is a watertight structure, an amazing feat of engineering. The question remains, though: Who was it for? Even as archaeologists found more elaborate carvings in the stones—spirals, diamonds, and concentric circles—they got no clues as to whether it was for kings, political leaders, or for a long-lost ritual. Inside, a passage 18m (59 ft.) long leads to a central burial chamber that sits in pitch darkness all year, except for 5 days in December. As part of the tour, you can walk down the passage, past elaborately carved stones and into the chamber, which has three sections, each with a basin stone that once held cremated human remains. During the winter solstice (Dec 19–23), a shaft of sunlight travels down the arrow-straight passageway for 17 minutes, until it hits the back wall of the burial chamber. You can register for a lottery to be in the tomb for this extraordinary event.

Tips: Admission to Newgrange is by guided tour only. It’s 3.2km (2 miles) east of Slane. Get there early. All tickets are issued at the visitor center, Bru na Boinne. Combined tickets with Knowth (above) are available. Because of the great numbers of visitors, especially in the summer, expect delays; access is not guaranteed. The last tour is given at 4:30pm.

Off N51, Slane, County Meath. 041/988-0300. Fax 041/982-3071. www.knowth.com/newgrange.htm. Guided tour and admission to Bru na Boinne Centre €6 adults; €5 seniors; €3 students and children 7 and over; €15 families. Combined ticket with Knowth €11 adults; €8 seniors; €6 children 7 and over; €28 families. Nov–Jan daily 9am–5pm; Feb–Apr and Oct daily 9:30am–5:30pm; May and mid- to late Sept daily 9am–6:30pm; June to mid-Sept daily 9am–7pm.

Newgrange Farm After all that history, the kids will thank you for bringing them here to this busy 133-hectare (329-acre) farm where farmer Willie Redhouse and his family will take them on a 11⁄2-hour tour of their farm. You can feed the ducks, groom a calf, and bottle-feed the lambs and kid goats. Children can hold a newborn chick, pet a pony, and play with the pigs. In the aviaries are pheasants and rare birds. You can take a ride on a tractor for an extra €2. The high point of the week (for kids, anyway) occurs at roughly 4pm every Sunday and bank holiday, when the sheep take to the track with teddy bear jockeys for the weekly derby. Demonstrations of sheepdogs working, threshing, and horseshoeing are regularly underway, while in the herb garden, you can get a lesson in picking edible plants and herbs. There is a coffee shop and plenty of picnic space.

Off N51, 3.2km (2 miles) east of Slane (signposted off N51 and directly west of Newgrange monument), County Meath. 041/982-4119. www.newgrangefarm.com. Admission €8 per person; €18–€30 families. Daily 10am–5pm. Closed Sept to Good Friday.

St. Colmcille’s House Sitting incongruously near more modern houses, like a memory of Ireland’s past, St. Colmcille’s House is all that’s left of an old monastic settlement that once stood where modern homes are now built. Most of the building is 10th century, although the oldest parts predate that by another hundred years. Precisely what the house was built for is unknown, although some experts believe it was once a scriptorium—where monks wrote and illuminated books. The first-floor room still contains the traces of an ancient fireplace and entryway. A narrow metal staircase ascends 4.5m (15 ft.) to a dark vault just under the roof. The small two-chambered space has both a structural and mythical dimension. It is thought to help reinforce the stone arch of the oratory roof and—though this is more conjectural—is also said to be the place where the Book of Kells was completed.

About 180m (about 590 ft.) northwest of St. Columba’s Church, Church Lane, Kells, County Meath. No phone. Free admission. Mon–Sat 10am–5pm. Ask for key from caretaker Mrs. B. Carpenter, next door to the oratory on Church Lane.

Slane Castle This 18th-century castle is best known within Ireland for the open-air rock and pop concerts held here in the summertime. For tourists, the big draw is the building itself, a Gothic Revival structure by James Wyatt. The design of the building was made grander in the early 19th century in advance of a visit by the English King George IV to Lady Conyngham, who is believed to have been his mistress (in fact, the Irish claim that the road from Dublin to Slane was built to ease George’s journeys to her home). A fire in 1991 burned most of the castle’s extensive collection of art and antiques. After extensive renovations, the castle is now open again for visits.

Just west of Slane (signposted off the Navan rd.), County Meath. 041/988-4400. www.slanecastle.ie. Admission €7 adults; €5 seniors, students, and children; €20 families. Mid-June to late Aug Sun–Thurs noon–5pm.

Trim Castle ★ This massive Anglo-Norman edifice is a magnificent sight. The Norman lord Hugh de Lacy occupied the site in 1172 and built the enclosed cruciform keep. In the 13th century, his son Walter enlarged the keep, circled it with a many-towered curtain wall, and added a great hall as an upgraded venue for courts, parliaments, and feasts. After the 17th century, it was abandoned and lay in ruins for centuries. Few paid much attention to it until Mel Gibson chose to use it as a setting for the film Braveheart. Since then, it’s generally overrun with curious visitors in the summertime. The Irish Heritage Service restored it as a “preserved ruin,” leaving much of its historic integrity. It’s a skeletal reminder of the once-great Anglo-Norman clout. You can take the guided tour, but you’ll have to arrive early. It’s usually a sellout, but can’t be booked in advance. Note: This tour is unsuitable for small or unruly children, and for anyone unable to maneuver steep climbs or afraid of formidable heights.

Trim, County Meath. 046/943-8619. Admission to grounds and tour of keep €4 adults; €3 seniors; €2.30 students and children; €10 families. Admission to grounds only €3 adults; €2 seniors; €1 children and students; €8 families. Easter to mid-Sept daily 10am–6pm; mid-Sept to late Dec Sat–Sun only 10am–5pm. Tours every 30 min. starting at 10:15am; last admission 1 hr. before closing.

Gruesome Find at Trim Castle

In 1971 when excavation work was underway at Trim Castle, workers made a macabre discovery: While digging to the south of the central keep, they uncovered the remains of 10 headless men. Historians believe that the bodies date from the 15th century. During a time of high crime in 1465, King Edward IV ordered that all robbers should be beheaded, and their heads displayed on spikes to intimidate those who might be thinking of a career in crime. Presumably, these men had all suffered that fate.

SHOPPING

Mary McDonnell Craft Studio Textile artist Mary McDonnell welcomes visitors to watch as she creates leather items, ceramics, jewelry, cushions, and quilts. Her shop stocks the works of local artisans inspired by ancient Celtic designs. Open Tuesday to Saturday from 10:30am to 6pm, Sunday from 3 to 6pm. 4 Newgrange Mall, Slane, County Meath. 041/982-4722.

SPORTS & OUTDOOR PURSUITS

CYCLING You can rent bikes by the day from Clarke’s Sports Den at the back of the Navan Indoor Market (39 Trimgate St., Navan; 046/902-1130). Rates are around €15 per day.

GOLF The Headfort Golf Club, Kells ( 046/924-0146; www.headfortgolfclub.ie.com), has two courses and its greens fees are €40 to €50 weekdays, €55 to €70 weekends. Even more reasonably priced is the par-73 County Meath Golf Club, Trim ( 046/943-1463; www.countymeathgolfclubtrim.ie), with greens fees of €30 weekdays, €35 weekends. If you prefer links courses, the Laytown and Bettystown Golf Club, Bettystown ( 041/982-7170; www.landb.ie), charges greens fees of €50 weekdays, €60 weekends.

HORSEBACK RIDING Visitors can expect to pay an average of €25 per hour for trekking or trail riding in the countryside. To arrange a ride, contact the Kells Equestrian Centre, Kells ( 046/924-6998; www.kellsequestrian.com).

WHERE TO STAY & EAT

Trim Castle Hotel A modern hotel close to historic Trim Castle, this place couldn’t be more handy for visiting Trim unless it were located atop the castle keep. Rooms are newly done in neutral colors, with big comfortable beds. Some have views of the castle, others overlook gardens. It’s all very businesslike here and probably not the type of place where you’ll make lifelong friends, but it’s a fine place to base yourself while exploring the area. The on-site restaurant and bar are very useful when you’re too tired to go out and explore the town in the evening.

Castle St., Trim, County Meath. www.trimcastlehotel.com 046/948-3000. 68 units. €95–€150 double. Rates include full breakfast. MC, V. Free parking. Amenities: Restaurant; bar. In room: TV, hair dryer.

Brogans Bar and Guesthouse This family-run hotel has a devoted following of regulars who forgive it the tiny guest rooms and instead applaud its low prices and good restaurant. Located near the river in central Trim, Brogans is in a 200-year-old stone building within easy walking distance of Trim’s main sights. Rooms are, indeed, compact—in some doubles the bed virtually fills the space. But the beds are comfortable and the staff are friendly (although the front desk is often unmanned overnight). The in-house steakhouse offers good, meaty meals at reasonable prices, and the bar regularly features traditional Irish music and a festive craic.

High St., Trim, County Meath. www.brogans.ie. 046/943-1237. Fax 046/943-7648. 18 units. €50–€95 double. Rates include full breakfast. MC, V. Free parking. Amenities: Restaurant; bar. In room: TV, hair dryer, Wi-Fi (free).

Vanilla Pod ★ MODERN IRISH In this modern, creative little restaurant in the center of Kells, fresh local ingredients are the center of attention. The menu features light dishes prepared with local poultry and meat. The menu changes with the seasons, but dishes usually include things like warm black pudding, or crab and chili risotto as appetizers, and main courses such as herb-crusted rack of local lamb, and grilled Irish sirloin with balsamic onions. It’s all served in a warm and cheerful dining room, with a friendly touch.

At the Headfort Arms Hotel, John St., Kells, County Meath. 046/924-0084. Main courses €19–€25. MC, V. Mon–Thurs 5:30–10pm; Fri–Sat 5:30–11pm; Sun noon–3pm and 5–10pm. Early-bird specials until 7:30pm.

County Louth/Cuchulainn Country

Blink and you’ll miss it—to the north and east of Meath, little Louth is Ireland’s tiniest county at only 824 sq. km (318 sq. miles), and even its largest towns (Drogheda and Dundalk) are quite small. The heritage town of Carlingford ★★ is easily the prettiest, sitting on a spur of the Cooley Mountains, overlooking glassy Carlingford Lough—a photo just waiting to happen. Established by the Vikings, Carlingford still follows its medieval street patterns, and is overseen by a massive 13th-century castle. On the heights above the town, the ancient Irish folk hero Cuchulainn is said to have single-handedly defeated the armies of Ulster in an epic battle.

Drogheda is a busy modern hillside town with a dark history. In 1649, English forces led by Oliver Cromwell sieged the town, which had been held by a small regiment of Irish rebels. Cromwell’s forces smashed their way through city walls that had once been thought nearly impregnable. The subsequent indiscriminate massacre of townspeople and Catholic clergy there was so brutal that it remains infamous in Ireland to this day.

SEEING THE SIGHTS

Carlingford Heritage Centre Also known more poetically as the “Holy Trinity Heritage Centre,” this museum in a beautifully restored medieval church details Carlingford’s history from its Norman origins. If you would like, your visit could include a guided walking tour of the town and a look at King John’s Castle, the Mint, the Tholsel (the sole surviving, though altered, gate to the old medieval town), and a Dominican friary. The cost varies according to how much you want to see, but averages about €5. Book a tour in advance at the number below, or through the local tourism office ( 042/937-3033).

Carlingford, County Louth. 042/9373454. www.carlingfordheritagecentre.com. Admission €3 adults; €1.50 seniors, students, and children. Sept–May Sat–Sun noon–5pm; June–Aug daily 10am–4:30pm.

Millmount Museum and Martello Tower ★ In the courtyard of 18th-century Millmount Fort, this eclectic little museum tells the history of Drogheda and the Boyne Valley. The collection includes Bronze Age finds, medieval tiles, and a large collection of 19th-century trades-union banners, which the staff will enthusiastically talk your ear off about if business is slow. The mishmash display also includes random domestic items: looms, brewing equipment, gramophones, and, strangely, mousetraps. A geological exhibit contains specimens of stone from every county in Ireland, every country in Europe, and beyond.

Duleek St., off the main Dublin rd. (N1), Drogheda, County Louth. 041/983-3097. www.millmount.net. Admission museum and tower €5.50 adults; €3 seniors and children; €4 students; €12 families. Tower only €3 adults; €2 seniors and children; €2.50 students; €6 families. Museum only €3.50 adults; €2.50 seniors and children; €3 students; €8 families. Mon–Sat 9:30am–5:30pm; Sun and bank holidays 2–5pm. Last tour 1 hr. before closing.

Monasterboice ★ This interesting ancient monastic site holds a peaceful cemetery, one of the tallest round towers in Ireland, ancient church ruins, and two excellent high crosses. The atmosphere here is dreamy, and you get the sense that it was once a peaceful place of prayer. The original site is said to have been founded in the 4th century by a follower of St. Patrick named St. Buithe. The name “Buithe” was corrupted to Boyne over time, and thus the whole region is named after him. The small monastic community thrived here for centuries, until it was seized and occupied by Vikings in the 10th century, but the Vikings were, in turn, defeated by the Irish high king of Tara, Donal, who is said to have single-handedly killed 300 of them. Today there’s only a little left, but the Muiredach’s High Cross is worth the trip all on its own. Dating from 922, the near-perfect cross is carved with elaborate scenes from the Old and New Testaments. Two other high crosses are more faded, and one was smashed by Cromwell’s forces.

Off the main Dublin rd. (N1), 9.7km (6 miles) northwest of Drogheda, near Collon, County Louth. Free admission. Daily dawn–dusk.

Old Mellifont Abbey Founded in the 12th century, this was the first Cistercian monastery on the island, and ultimately became the most spectacular. Enough is left of the abbey buildings just a few miles north of Drogheda to give you an idea of what Mellifont was like in its day, when it was the center of Cistercian faith in Ireland, with more than 400 monks living and working within its walls. You can see the outline of the cross-shaped nave, as well as the remains of the cloister, refectory, and warming room, which, because the monks lived lives of suffering, would have been the only part of the monastery with heating. Mellifont was closed in the 16th century during the English dissolution, and a manor house was soon built on the site for an English landlord, using the abbey’s stones. A century later, that house would be the last place where Hugh O’Neill, the final Irish chief, stayed before surrendering to the English and then fleeing to Europe in 1607, in the “flight of the Earls.” There’s a good visitor center next door where you can find out more about the monastery and its complex and lengthy history.

On the banks of the Mattock River, 9.7km (6 miles) west of Drogheda, off T25, Collon, County Louth. 041/982-6459. Admission €3 adults; €2 seniors and students; €1 children; €8 families. Late April to late Sept daily 10am–6pm.

Proleek Dolmen Standing around 3.6m (12 ft.) tall, this huge dolmen is said to resemble a giant’s finger when viewed from a distance. We’ve never quite seen the resemblance, but it’s an impressive sight nonetheless. The capstone, which looks alarmingly precarious, balanced on top of three smaller stones like a crude, misshapen tripod, weighs a massive 35 tons. The top of the capstone is invariably covered with pebbles, due to a local legend that if you can throw a stone and it stays there, your wish will come true. You can reach the dolmen down a paved footpath from the parking lot of the Ballymascanlon House Hotel; 042/935-8200; www.ballymascanlon.com), about 6km (33⁄4 miles) outside Dundalk. It’s about a .4km (1⁄4 mile) walk. To find the hotel from Dublin, take exit 18 for Dundalk North off the M1, then take the N52 off the first roundabout, and the road to Ballymascanlon from the second. The hotel is about 3km (13⁄4 miles) down this road.

HIGH CROSSES: icons OF IRELAND

You see them all over Ireland, often in the most picturesque rural surroundings, standing alone like sentries, high Celtic crosses with faded stories carved into every inch of space. They are extraordinary—mournful and unforgettable—but when they were created, they served a useful purpose: They were books, of sorts, in the days when books were rare and precious. Think of the carvings, which inevitably explain the stories of the Bible, as illustrations acting sort of like cartoons explaining the Bible to the uneducated population. When they were created, the crosses were probably brightly painted as well, but the paint has long been lost to the wind and rain.

The Muiredach Cross ★ at Monasterboice has carvings telling, from the bottom up, the stories of Adam and Eve, Cain and Abel, David and Goliath, and Moses, as well as the wise men bringing gifts to the baby Jesus. At the center of the old cross, the carving is thought to be of Revelation, while, at the top, St. Paul stands alone in the desert. The western side of the cross tells the stories of the New Testament, with, from the top down, a figure praying, the Crucifixion, St. Peter, Doubting Thomas, and, below that, Jesus’ arrest. On the base of the cross is an inscription of the sort found often carved on stones in ancient Irish monasteries. It reads in Gaelic, “A prayer for Muiredach for whom the cross was made.” Muiredach was the abbot at Monasterboice until 922, so the cross was probably made as a memorial shortly after his death.

Another excellent example of a carved high cross is to be found at the monastery of Clonmacnoise near Shannonbridge.

On the grounds of the Ballymascanlon House Hotel, Dundalk, County Louth. Site has no phone; hotel 042/935-8200. Free admission.

St. Peter’s Church of Ireland This church dating from the 18th century is the latest in a series of churches on this site. It’s a low-key but lovely place, approached through frilly, wrought-iron gates. Inside the simple, peaceful nave are several heavily carved tombs, including one spooky carving featuring skeletons wearing shrouds. Some have associated it with the Black Death. St. Peter’s is notorious for an incident that occurred here during the battle of Drogheda in 1649. A group of Irish men, fleeing the losing battle, sought refuge in this Protestant church. When Cromwell’s forces invaded the church, the men climbed into the steeple. Cromwell’s troops used the pews as timber to start a fire, and the men were burned alive, an act so terrible that some of his own men refused the order, risking a charge of mutiny. This is the second rebuilding of St. Peter’s since that infamous event.

William St., Drogheda, County Louth. No phone. Free admission. Daily 10am–3pm.

SHOPPING

Celtic Clays This little pottery shop sells the work of Ciaran O’Conboirne. He uses Celtic motifs and rich, earthy tones to create distinctive, collectible pieces that look and feel Irish. Every item is handmade and makes a superb souvenir. You can also watch the potters at work in their studio. Open weekdays 9am to 5:30pm, weekends and holidays noon to 6pm. 2 Riverlane, Carlingford, County Louth. 042/938-3996. www.celticclays.com.

WHERE TO STAY & EAT

Ballymascanlon House Hotel This 19th-century Victorian mansion was formerly the home of Baron Plunkett. The house has been enlarged several times with astounding lack of sympathy for the beauty and symmetry of the original building. If you can ignore the unattractiveness of some of the modern structures, you can enjoy the award-winning gardens and grounds forming a peaceful oasis—which includes the impressive Proleek Dolmen. Rooms vary in size, but all are decorated with antiques. The Terrace Bar offers live music on Saturday nights, although it’s more middle-of-the-road than traditional.

Off the Dublin-Belfast rd. (N1), Dundalk, County Louth. www.ballymascanlon.com. 042/935-8200. Fax 042/937-1598. 90 units. €380 double; €590 suite. Rates include full breakfast. AE, DC, MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant; pub; golf course; gym; pool; sauna; tennis courts. In room: TV, hair dryer.

Ghan House ★★ This 18th-century country house makes a beautiful and quiet retreat overlooking the glassy waters of Carlingford Lough. Some guest rooms are in the main house, while others are in an atmospheric converted dairy next door—all are spacious and have a charmingly old-fashioned feel, with antique beds, floral fabric, and wingback chairs. Little touches—bathrobes, homemade cookies left in your room—convey a small sense of luxury. The Ghan House restaurant is actually the main draw for most guests. The menu emphasizes local meat and fish cooked in innovative ways; it changes daily but might include Carlingford mussels, Antrim Estate pheasant, or Dromoland Castle venison. If you’re coming in the winter months you might even be able to catch one of the festive Georgian-themed nights, with full costume and authentic dishes, but these generally need to be booked well in advance.

Coast Rd., Carlingford, County Louth. www.ghanhouse.com. 042/937-3682. Fax 042/937-3772. 12 units. €140–€250 double. Rates include full breakfast. 5-course fixed-price dinner €55. Georgian-themed nights €75 usually twice yearly, Feb/Mar and Nov (call for details). AE, MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant. In room: TV, hair dryer.

Shalom B&B In a small, modern compound at the edge of the lake in Carlingford, Shalom is a peaceful, tree-shaded place just five minutes walk from the medieval town center. Guest rooms are spacious and homey with comfortable double or twin beds—all have private bathrooms. Owners Kevin and Jackie Woods are eager to share their knowledge about the area, and will happily direct you to their favorite local restaurants and pubs. The compound includes three private one-bedroom self-catering apartments (€95 per night), each with a comfortable living room, kitchen, and bedroom, and little balconies overlooking the lough.

Ghan Rd., Carlingford, County Louth. www.jackiewoods.com. 042/937-3151. 7 units. €60 double. Rates include full breakfast. MC, V. Amenities: Wi-Fi (free). In room: TV, hair dryer.

THE BEST OF IRELAND

Tiny, and with ever-changing scenery, Ireland is an addictive place to explore. Within a few miles you can travel from plunging cliffs to flat pastureland to towering mountains to gloomy peat bog. You can spend the night in ancient castles or state-of-the-art spa hotels, dine on fine Irish cuisine or snack on fish and chips served in a paper bag. The sheer number of sights, little villages, charming pubs, and adorable restaurants and shops is overwhelming—you always feel that you might be missing something. So it’s nice to have somebody help you focus, and that’s why we’ve put together this list of some of our favorite places and things in Ireland. We hope that while you’re here, you’ll find a few of your own.

THE BEST PICTURE-POSTCARD TOWNS

• Dalkey (County Dublin): The cutest of a string of upscale seaside towns in suburban Dublin nicknamed “Bel Eire” (pronounced “Bellaire,” get it?) for their wealth, beauty, and density of celebrity residents, Dalkey is both a short drive and a million miles away from the busy city. With a castle, a mountaintop folly, lovely beaches, and some fine restaurants, this is a town that tempts you to settle into its comfortable affluence.

• Carlingford (County Louth): The ancient name for this gorgeous little town is Cuan Aighneach, which means “Haven of the People with the Perfect Reputation.” With its castle ruins overlooking the glassy lough, and pedestrian-friendly lanes filled with colorful shops, cafes, and pubs, this place tends to live up to its reputation. See for more information.

• Inistioge (County Kilkenny): Nestled in the Nore River valley, surrounded by undulating hills, this riverfront village with two spacious greens and a host of pubs cries out to be photographed. Its rivers and lakes are swimming with fish and attract hosts of anglers.

• Kinsale (County Cork): Kinsale’s narrow streets all lead to the sea, dropping steeply from the hills around the harbor, although the crowds of visitors teeming on the sidewalks every summer attest to the fact that the Kinsale secret is out. The walk from Kinsale through Scilly to Charles Fort and Frower Point is breathtaking. Kinsale has the added benefit of being a foodie town, with no shortage of good restaurants.

• Dingle/An Daingean (County Kerry): Dingle is a charming hilltop medieval town. Its stone buildings ramble up and down hills, and its small population is relaxed about visitors. It has lots of little diners and picturesque pubs, and a lovely, historic church.

• Kenmare (County Kerry): It’s easy to fall in love with Kenmare, with its stone cottages, colorful gardens, and flowers overflowing from window boxes. It’s also home to several elegant hotels, so it makes an enchanting base when exploring the Ring of Kerry.

• Athlone (County Westmeath): Sitting at the edge of the River Shannon, its streets curving around a sturdy, fortresslike castle, Athlone is a charmer. Houses are painted in bright hues, and with its small, funky boutiques and spirit of fun, it has the feel of a busy university town. Good restaurants and lively pubs add to its charms.

• Ardara (County Donegal): On the southwest coast of County Donegal, the tiny town of Ardara looks as if it were carved out of a solid block of granite. Its streets undulate up and down the rocky hills, and are lined with little boutiques and charming arts shops, many selling clothes made of the famed Donegal wool. You can wander its entirety in a few minutes. It’s a bite-size place.

THE BEST NATURAL WONDERS

• MacGillycuddy’s Reeks (County Kerry): A mountain range on the Iveragh Peninsula, MacGillycuddy’s Reeks not only has the best name of any mountain range in Ireland, but also the highest mountain on the island, Carrantuohill (1,041m/3,414 ft.). The Reeks are among Ireland’s greatest spectacles.

• The Slieve Bloom Way (County Laois): Slieve Bloom, Ireland’s largest and most unspoiled blanket bog, rises gently above the peat fields. Its beauty—gentle slopes, glens, rivers, waterfalls, and bog lands—is subtle but persistent, and it is comparatively untouched. You can have it more or less to yourself, apart from its deer and foxes, and an occasional frolicking otter.

• The Burren (County Clare): We can guarantee this: The Burren is one of the strangest landscapes you’re likely to see. Its vast limestone grassland is spread with a quilt of wildflowers from as far afield as the Alps, all softening the stark stones jutting out of the ground. Its inhabitants include nearly every species of butterfly found in Ireland.

• Cliffs of Moher (County Clare): Rising from Hag’s Head to the south, these magnificent sea cliffs reach their full height of 214m (702 ft.) just north of O’Brien’s Tower. The views of the open sea, of the Aran Islands, and of the Twelve Bens mountains of Connemara are spectacular. A walk south along the cliff edge at sunset makes a perfect end to any day.

• The Twelve Bens (County Galway): Amid Connemara’s central mountains, bogs, and lakes, the rugged Twelve Bens range crowns a spectacular landscape. Some of the peaks are bare and rocky, others clothed in peat. The loftiest, Benbaun, in Connemara National Park, reaches a height of 719m (2,395 ft.).

• Croagh Patrick (County Mayo): Rising steeply 750m (2,460 ft.) above the coast, Croagh Patrick is seen as a holy mountain, where the saint is said to have retreated in penance. Traditionally, barefoot pilgrims climb it the last Sunday of July, but in recent years, hundreds of Nike-shod tourists have been making the ascent daily. The view from above can be breathtaking or nonexistent—the summit is often wrapped in clouds.

• Slieve League (County Donegal): The Slieve League peninsula stretches for 48km (30 miles) into the Atlantic. Its pigmented bluffs rise to startlingly high sea cliffs. They can also be walked along, if you dare.

• Giant’s Causeway (County Antrim): At the foot of a cliff by the sea, this mysterious mass of dark, tightly packed, naturally occurring hexagonal basalt columns are nothing short of astonishing. This volcanic wonder, formed 60 million years ago, looks marvelous from above, even better when negotiated (cautiously) on foot.

THE BEST CASTLES

• Trim Castle (County Meath): Trim, also called King John’s Castle, restored as a preserved ruin, is a massive Anglo-Norman structure. It was all but impregnable for 4 centuries (late 12th to mid–17th c.). Until it was abandoned and collapsed in the 17th century, it never underwent any significant alteration. For anyone with imagination, Trim is a visual gateway into medieval Ireland.

• Cahir Castle (County Tipperary): One of the largest of Ireland’s medieval fortresses, this castle is in an extraordinary state of preservation. Tours explain some fascinating features of the military architecture, and then you’re free to roam through a maze of tiny chambers, spiral staircases, and dizzying battlements.

• Kilkenny Castle (County Kilkenny): Although parts of the castle date from the 13th century, the existing structure has the feel of an 18th-century palace. There have been many modifications since medieval times, including the addition of colorful landscaping, and the old stables now hold numerous art galleries and shops.

• Blarney Castle (County Cork): Despite the mobs of tourists who besiege it daily, this majestic tower house is worth a visit. While you’re there, check out the Badger Cave and dungeons at the tower’s base, as well as the serpentine paths that wind through the castle gardens. Need we mention the Blarney Stone? You sidle in under the upper wall with your head hanging over a 10-story drop. You kiss it. It’s a thing people do.

• Bunratty Castle and Folk Park (County Clare): This grand old castle has been well restored and filled with a curious assortment of medieval furnishings, offering a glimpse into the life of its past inhabitants. This is the first stop for many arrivals from Shannon, so expect crowds.

• Doe Castle (County Donegal): This picturesque tower house is surrounded on three sides by the waters of Sheep Haven Bay and on the fourth by a moat carved into the bedrock that forms its foundation. It has a remote waterfront setting and sweeping views of the nearby hills.

• Carrickfergus Castle (County Antrim): This well-preserved Norman fortress on the bank of Belfast Lough is huge and impressive, with an imposing tower house and a high wall punctuated by corner towers.

• Dunluce Castle (County Antrim): These castle ruins surmount a razor-sharp promontory jutting into the sea. This was a highly defensible setting, and the castle wasn’t abandoned until a large section collapsed and fell into the breakers.

THE BEST OF ANCIENT IRELAND

• Hill of Tara (County Meath): Of ritual significance from the Stone Age to the Christian period, Tara has seen it all and kept it all a secret. This was the traditional center and seat of Ireland’s high kings. Although the hill is only 154m (512 ft.) above sea level, from here you can see each of Ireland’s four Celtic provinces on a clear day. The site is mostly unexcavated and tells its story in whispers. It’s a place to be walked slowly.

• Newgrange (County Meath): One of the archaeological wonders of western Europe, Newgrange is the centerpiece of a megalithic cemetery dating back 5,000 years. Its massive mound and passage tomb are amazing feats of engineering. But the question remains: What was it all for?

• Loughcrew (County Meath): At this little-known site, not far from Newgrange, a series of cruciform passage tombs crown two hills. Guided tours of the cairns are offered during the summer, but we prefer to come in the off season, when you can borrow a key and make your own imaginative reconstruction.

• Lough Gur (County Limerick): This lakefront site will convince you that the Neolithic farmers of Ireland had an estimable sense of real estate. Inhabited for more than 4,000 years, the ancient farming settlement offers a number of prehistoric remains. The most impressive of these is the largest surviving stone circle in Ireland, made up of 113 stones.

• Dún Aengus (County Galway): No one knows who built this massive stone fort, or when. The eminent archaeologist George Petrie called Dún Aengus “the most magnificent barbaric monument in Europe.” Facing the sea, where its three stone rings meet steep 90m (295-ft.) cliffs, Dún Aengus still stands guard today over the southern coast of the island of Inishmore, the largest of the Aran Islands.

• Carrowmore and Carrowkeel (County Sligo): These two megalithic cities of the dead (Europe’s largest) may have once contained more than 200 passage tombs. The two together—one in the valley and the other atop a nearby mountain—convey an unequaled sense of the scale and wonder of the ancient peoples’ reverence for the dead. Carrowmore is well presented and interpreted, while Carrowkeel is left to itself and to those who seek it out.

• Navan Fort (County Antrim): There is no longer much remaining here to reflect the great past of this fort, though it was once the ritual and royal seat of Ulster. Thankfully, the interpretive center here is nothing short of remarkable, and it offers a great introduction to the myth and archaeology of the fort, known in Irish as Emain Macha.

Save Money: Buy a Heritage Card

The Heritage Card is a pass that allows you free entry to almost all historic sites owned or managed by the Irish government. Given that these include some of the country’s most popular attractions, this can be a big saving. The card costs €21 for adults, €16 for seniors, €8 for children, and €55 for families. You can buy them at any of the site ticket offices, or at www.heritageireland.ie.

Dozens of sights listed in this book take Heritage Cards, including: Aughnanure Castle; the Blasket Centre; Carrowmore Megalithic Cemetery; Céide Fields; Charles Fort; Clonmacnoise; Dublin Castle; Fota House; Glendalough; Glenveagh National Park; the Hill of Tara; the Iveagh Gardens; Jerpoint Abbey; the John F. Kennedy Arboretum; Kilmainham Gaol; Kilkenny Castle; Muckross House; the National Botanic Gardens; the Rock of Cashel; and Trim Castle.

THE BEST EARLY CHRISTIAN RUINS

• Glendalough (County Wicklow): Nestled in “the glen of the two lakes,” this atmospheric monastic settlement was founded in the 6th century by St. Kevin, who was looking for seclusion and certainly found it here. The setting is endlessly scenic, with lakes and forests surrounding it. Although quite remote, Glendalough suffered assaults from the Vikings and English forces, and eventually faded away. Today its stone ruins collude with the countryside to create one of the loveliest spots in Ireland.

• The Rock of Cashel (County Tipperary): In name and appearance, “the Rock” suggests a citadel, a place designed more for power than prayer. In fact, Cashel (or Caiseal) means “fortress.” The rock is a huge outcropping—or an upcropping—of limestone topped with spectacularly beautiful ruins, including what was formerly the country’s finest Romanesque chapel. This was the seat of clerics and kings, a power center to rival Tara. Now, however, the two sites vie only for the attention of tourists.

• Jerpoint Abbey (County Kilkenny): Jerpoint is the finest representative of the many Cistercian abbeys whose ruins dot the Irish landscape. Somehow, hundreds of years of rain and wind have failed to completely wipe away medieval carvings, leaving us a rare chance for a glimpse of how magnificent these abbeys once were. The splendid, richly carved cloister is the best place to spot the carvings, particularly at the top of the many columns.

• Skellig Michael (County Kerry): Thirteen kilometers (8 miles) offshore of the Iveragh Peninsula, rising sharply 214m (702 ft.) out of the Atlantic, this is a remote rocky crag dedicated to the archangel Michael. In flight from the world, early Irish monks in pursuit of “white martyrdom” (meaning martyrdom without bloodshed) chose this spot to build their austere hermitage. Today the journey to Skellig, across choppy seas, and the arduous climb to its summit are challenging and unforgettable.

• Clonmacnoise (County Offaly): This was once one of Ireland’s most important religious, artistic, and literary centers, a place of pilgrimage and culture. Founded in the mid–5th century at the axis of the River Shannon and the medieval east-west thoroughfare known as the Eiscir Riada, Clonmacnois thrived for centuries until its prime riverfront location brought repeated violent raids that proved its undoing. Even in ruins, Clonmacnois remains a place of peculiar serenity.

• Inishmurray (County Sligo): This uninhabited island off the Sligo coast holds another striking monastic ruin, this one surrounded by what appears to be the walls of an even more ancient stone fort. Despite its remoteness, the Vikings sought out this outpost of peace-seeking monks for destruction in A.D. 807. Today its circular walls and the surrounding sea create a stunning view, well worth the effort required to reach it.

THE BEST LITERARY SPOTS

• Dublin Writers Museum (Dublin): With handwritten letters from Brendan Behan to friends back home, and early flyers from the Abbey Theatre when it was run by Lady Gregory and Yeats, this museum is heaven for bookish types. You can spend hours reading the memorabilia and marveling at the trivia.

• Glasnevin Cemetery (Dublin): Besides being the setting for part of Ulysses, this is the resting place of James Joyce’s parents and other members of his family. The English-born poet Gerard Manley Hopkins is buried here, in the Jesuit plot. Maud Gonne, the Irish nationalist and longtime Dublin resident who is said to have inspired Yeats’s play Cathleen ní Houlihan, is buried in the Republican plot. The writer, drinker, and Irish Republican Brendan Behan is also buried here.

• Davy Byrnes (Dublin): In Ulysses Joyce describes the main character, Leopold Bloom, stopping in at this Dublin pub for a Gorgonzola sandwich and a glass of burgundy. “He raised his eyes and met the stare of a bilious clock. Two. Pub clock five minutes fast. Time going on. Hands moving. Two. Not yet.” Today the clock is kept 5 minutes fast, in honor of Bloom and Joyce.

• James Joyce Museum (Dublin): At the edge of the sea in the Dublin suburb of Sandycove, this Martello tower was home to Joyce for a short time, and he based a character on his host, Oliver St. John Gogarty, described in Ulysses as “stately, plump Buck Mulligan.” The museum was opened in 1962, and its interior has been restored to look as it did when Joyce was here, along with plenty of memorabilia, including Joyce’s walking stick and guitar.

• St. Patrick’s Cathedral (Dublin): Jonathan Swift tickled and horrified the world with his vicious wit. He shook up political establishments with his sarcasm, and nauseated the English-speaking world with his suggestion that people should dine on Irish babies. While kicking up such a stir, he was dean of St. Patrick’s Cathedral, which sponsored and supported him through it all. He is buried here alongside his longtime companion, Stella Johnson.

• County Sligo: With its many connections to the beloved poet W. B. Yeats, this county is a pilgrimage destination for Yeats fans. The poet’s writing was shaped by the landscape and people in this farming region, and many of its monuments—including Lough Gill, Glencar Lake, Ben Bulben Mountain, and Maeve’s tomb—appear in his poetry. There are also several museums housing first editions, photographs, and other memorabilia, and Yeats’s dark and somber grave is in Drumcliff.

THE BEST GARDENS

• Powerscourt Gardens (County Wicklow): This grandiose Irish garden is set amid the natural splendor of the Wicklow Hills just outside of Dublin. The sprawling, manicured gardens and the wild beauty of the Powerscourt waterfall make this a great day’s outing, and a respite from the noise and congestion of the city.

• Japanese Gardens (County Kildare): On the grounds of the National Stud, this peaceful enclave is based on the traditional designs of Japanese gardens. A Japanese specialist planned the structure and its symbolism, and most of the plants and stones were imported from Japan.

• Ilnacullin (County Cork): A ferry conveys visitors from a rhododendron-framed bay in the town of Glengarriff to Garinish Island, the unlikely site of a fine Italianate garden. The formal garden, with the casita at its center, is linked to a “wild garden” that showcases a collection of rhododendrons, azaleas, and rare trees.

• Glenveagh National Park (County Donegal): A castle and its gardens stretch across a strangely barren valley high in the hills of Donegal, along the banks of Lough Veagh. The sprawling park contains a grand statuary garden, a walled garden, and a rhododendron-lined path that leads to a stunning view of the castle and lake.

• Mount Stewart House Gardens (County Down): Built upon an elaborate plan, the Mount Stewart House has several gardens of distinctive character. The Ards Peninsula provides a climate conducive to cultivating many subtropical species. The statuary, topiary, and planting designs reflect a touch of whimsy.

THE BEST FAMILY ACTIVITIES

• Dublin Zoo in the Phoenix Park (Dublin): Kids love this sympathetically designed zoo, with its wild creatures, animal-petting corners, and train ride. The surrounding park has room to run, picnic, and explore.

• Irish National Heritage Park (County Wexford): Nearly 9,000 years of Irish history come alive here in ways that will fascinate visitors of all ages. The whole family will be captivated by the story of ancient Ireland, from its first inhabitants to its Norman conquerors.

• Fota Island Wildlife Park (County Cork): In this wildlife park, rare and endangered animals roam freely. You’ll see everything from giraffes and zebras to kangaroos, flamingos, penguins, and monkeys wandering the grassland. Add in a small amusement park for toddlers, a tour train, picnic tables, and a gift shop and you have the makings of a wonderful family outing.

• Muckross House and Gardens (Killarney, County Kerry): This huge Victorian mansion with its exquisite gardens is also home to skilled artisans at work. Nearby are a series of reconstructed traditional farms, with animals and docents, providing a gateway to rural Ireland as it was for centuries.

• Fungie the Dolphin Tours (Dingle, County Kerry): Every day, fishing boats ferry visitors out into the nearby waters to see Fungie, the friendliest dolphin you’re ever likely to meet. Fungie swims right up to the boat, and the boatmen stay out long enough for ample sightings. You can also arrange an early-morning dolphin swim.

• Bunratty Castle and Folk Park (County Clare): Kids are enthralled by this well-restored medieval castle and re-created 19th-century village. It’s complete with a school and loaded with active craftspeople.

• Marble Arch Caves (Marlbank, County Fermanagh): Adventurous families are guided by boat through well-lit underground waterways to explore caves and view amazing stone formations.

THE BEST ACTIVE VACATIONS

• Sailing Ireland’s West Coast: Spectacular coastal scenery, interesting harbor towns, and an abundance of islands make the west coast a delight for cruising sailors.

• Horseback Riding in Donegal: The wild and woolly coast of Donegal offers the perfect scenic backdrop for trail riding, and as varied a terrain—beaches, countryside, mountains—as you’ll find anywhere.

• Sea Kayaking in West Cork: In Skibbereen, Atlantic Sea Kayaking specializes in accompanied trips along the dramatic, rugged coastline of West Cork. There are trips for various levels, so you can play it as safe or as rough as you want.

• Bicycling in the Southwest: The peninsulas and islands of Cork and Kerry are perfect for cycling, with an abundance of beautiful places to visit. Roycroft’s Cycles in Skibbereen, County Cork, rent bikes that are a notch above the usual rental equipment.

• Walking the Donegal Coast: The rugged headlands of Donegal are the most spectacular in Ireland, and the best way to explore them is on foot. Among the finest walks are Slieve League, Malin Head, and Horn Head.

THE BEST DRIVING TOURS

• Antrim Coast: The Antrim Coast is 97km (60 miles) long, stretching north of Larne and west past Bushmills and the Giant’s Causeway to Portrush. If you start in gorgeous Glenarm, with its castle walls and barbican gate, and head north along the coast from there, the route takes in sweeping views of midnight-blue sea against gray unforgiving cliffs and deep green hillsides. You often have the road mostly to yourself.

• Conor Pass (Dingle Peninsula): The main road from Tralee to Dingle Town takes you 390m (1,300 ft.) above sea level on a road that seems impossibly narrow and rough, but which offers extraordinary views. You may (as we have done) find yourself above the clouds here, and in places you can see for miles. It’s an unforgettable drive, especially in the spring or fall, when the weather can create gorgeous skies.

• Slea Head Drive (Dingle Peninsula): This drive, starting from Dingle Town and heading down the Ventry road, follows the sea past a series of ancient ruins, including the Dunbeg Fort. Taking in deep blue ocean views along the way, it brings you to Dunqiun, where you can embark on boats to the Blasket Islands, with their ancient remains. From there you continue on to Gallarus Oratory, and then back to Dingle Town.

• Inishowen Peninsula (County Donegal): This far-flung promontory in the northern outreaches of Ireland stretches out from Lough Foyle to the east and Lough Swilly to the west toward Malin Head, its farthest point. Around the edges are ancient sites, charming villages, and beautiful beaches surrounded by intimidating rocky coves attacked by crashing waves. At its center are gorgeous views, mountains, and quiet, vivid green pastures. If you are looking to get lost, this is a great place to do it.

THE BEST LUXURY ACCOMMODATIONS

• The Clarence (Dublin; 01/407-0800; www.theclarence.ie): Owned by members of the band U2, the Clarence is a perfect mixture of sleek sophistication and coolness. Everything here is designed for subtle elegance, from the soft, neutral color schemes, to the luxurious bed linens and huge beds, to the helpful staff. The Octagon Bar is a relaxing hangout, while the Tea Room restaurant is one of the best eateries in town. Its Relax spa will pummel and facial you into relaxation, while the staff members hurry off to find your favorite red wine. Staying here is a real treat.

• Park Hotel Kenmare (County Kerry; 800/323-5463 in the U.S., or 064/664-1200 in Ireland; www.parkkenmare.com): In a palm-tree-lined garden beside Kenmare Bay, this imposing 19th-century hotel is grand and luxurious. In the high-ceilinged sitting rooms, fires crackle in the open fireplaces, oil paintings decorate the walls, and there’s a full set of armor at the top of the grand staircase surrounded by tapestries and rare antiques. Guest rooms have Georgian and Victorian furnishings and peaceful waterfront or mountain views. The guest-only, in-house spa is extraordinary.

• Gregans Castle Hotel (County Clare; 800/323-5463 in the U.S., or 065/707-7005 in Ireland; www.gregans.ie): Not a castle at all, but an ivy-covered, stone manor house, this small, family-run hotel is filled with light, and has lovely views of the Burren and Galway Bay. The drawing room and expansive hallways are filled with heirlooms, and the walls are decorated with Raymond Piper’s mural paintings of the Burren. Guest rooms are spacious and elegantly decorated in muted colors with antique pieces, and all have expansive views of the gorgeous countryside. Dinners here are outstanding, and worth every penny.

• Delphi Lodge (County Galway; 095/42222; www.delphilodge.ie): This was once the country hideaway for the marquis of Sligo, and now it can be yours. Inside, the emphasis is on clean, bright simplicity and perfect taste. It’s a different kind of luxury—there’s no spa here; instead the spectacular setting, at the edge of a lake and at the foot of a lush, green mountain, provides the beauty and the relaxation. “Tranquillity,” “comfort,” and, well, “fishing” are the operative words here. Whether or not you’re an angler, you will want to stay longer than you’d planned—and by renting one of the cottages for a week or more, you can make the indulgence more affordable.

• Rathmullan House (County Donegal; 800/223-6510 in the U.S., or 074/915-8188 in Ireland; www.rathmullanhouse.com): This getaway lies at the end of a long private drive on the banks of the mirrorlike waters of Lough Swilly. Rooms are big and beautifully detailed, with a soft color scheme, claw-foot tubs, and private patios. There are half a dozen drawing rooms in which you can relax on big leather sofas by open fires. The staff is friendly and open, the hotel restaurant is stellar, and the atmosphere is one of pure rural rest and relaxation.

THE BEST MODERATELY PRICED ACCOMMODATIONS

• Moy House (County Clare; 065/708-2800; www.moyhouse.com): This unusual 19th-century tower house atop a hill overlooking the sea is beautiful inside and out. Rooms have comfortable, modern beds covered in crisp Irish linens, and are decorated with original paintings and period antiques. Bathrooms are beautifully designed to combine modern conveniences with the building’s old architecture (a glass panel in one room provides a look down into an ancient well). Downstairs, the small, attractive dining room serves up excellent food and has a sea view. It’s a snug, warm, friendly place to visit.

• The Bervie (County Mayo; 098/43114; www.bervie-guesthouse-achill.com): Views really don’t get any better than this—right at the edge of the sea, overlooking the cliffs across the bay. This cozy retreat is an ideal place to stay for those exploring Ireland’s wild west coast. Owners Elizabeth and John Barrett are charming hosts who greet you with fresh scones and will cook you a delightful dinner if you wish. The house is a former coast guard station—as solid as a rock, and as comforting as a security blanket.

• Temple House (County Sligo; 071/918-3329; www.templehouse.ie): Not a hotel, yet not quite like any other B&B we’ve stayed in, Roderick and Helena Perceval’s grand manor house is an extraordinary place where ceilings soar to the stratosphere, marble stays solidly underfoot, and the family’s working farm stretches out for miles around you. A Templar castle lies in ruins on the banks of their lake. They offer amazing breakfasts, and will cook you a wonderful dinner. You can explore their pond, boat on their lake, and experience a bit of their country idyll. To spend a few days here is to experience a different world.

• Iskeroon (County Kerry; 066/947-5119; www.iskeroon.com): This charming place sits amid an arrestingly beautiful natural setting, overlooking the sailboats of Derrynane Harbour and the Skelligs beyond. Inside, the 1930s building has been done in fresh Cape Cod style with locally made furniture and linens. It’s now self-catering, but they’ll bring you the supplies for a fresh, delicious breakfast.

• Waterloo House (Dublin; 01/660-1888; www.waterloohouse.ie): A classy guesthouse at the edge of central Dublin, Waterloo House has a lovely Georgian look, with a comfortable sunny drawing room where you can read the papers and fluffy white comforters on the bed in your room. A quiet, peaceful option.

THE BEST BUDGET ACCOMMODATIONS

• The Bastion (County Westmeath; 090/649-4954; www.thebastion.net): This simple and peaceful guesthouse in the heart of colorful Athlone is a find. Run by brothers Vinny and Anthony McCay, it has a minimalist approach, with clean white walls and crisp white linens contrasted with dark polished wood. The big, rambling house is comfortable, friendly, and perfectly located for touring Athlone, or as a base for exploring the surrounding countryside.

• Devondell (County Galway; 091/528306): Definitely one of the best value places to stay in Galway Town, this elegant little B&B sits in an upscale residential district a short stroll from the sea. Breakfasts here are something else.

• The Shores (County Kerry; 066/713-9196): It’s not often you find a place with a private beach for under €100 per night. Views of Tralee Bay from this guesthouse are stunning, especially on a sunny day. Bedrooms are comfortable and well designed, and the breakfast menu will give you a good start to your day.

• Glencairn Inn (County Waterford; 058/56232; www.glencairninn.com): A cozy farmhouse with a charming country-chic decor, this is a lovely option where rooms are the color of buttermilk, beds are iron or brass, and bathrooms have big, claw-foot tubs. The French owners also run the outstanding Pastis Bistro, where dinners are an event.

• Wicklow Way Lodge (County Wicklow; 01/281-8489): Set on a peaceful farm with sweeping views of the surrounding countryside, this is one of those places that you can’t quite believe you’ve found for the money. Hosts Seamus and Marilyn Kinlan could hardly make their guests feel more welcome.

• Tara Lodge (Belfast; 028/9059-0900): This stylish, comfortable little boutique hotel is an excellent find in Belfast, a city not known for the quality of its budget accommodations. Rooms are comfortable and well designed. Try the homemade porridge at breakfast—it’s practically legendary.

THE BEST RESTAURANTS

• L’Gueuleton (Dublin; 01/675-3708): This place is worth the effort you’ll have to put in to book a table well in advance. The cozy dining room is all candlelight, exposed brick walls, polished wood beams, and Prada-clad clientele. The Irish-French menu changes constantly, but includes warming options such as whole roast sea bass with new potatoes and chive beurre blanc, or venison casserole with juniper and organic root vegetables.

• Chapter One (Dublin; 01/873-2266): Arguably the city’s most atmospheric restaurant, this remarkable eatery fills the vaulted basement space of the Dublin Writers Museum. Artfully lighted and tastefully decorated, it offers a menu with local, organic ingredients, all cleverly used in dishes like the squab pigeon Wellington style, and the hot cured Clare Island salmon with glazed red pepper and crab. Fabulous!

• The Chart House (County Kerry; 066/915-2255): In this inviting bistro, everyone comes for the confident, simple cooking. Think wonderful comfort food with a flair, such as steak filet with black pudding mash, or roasted pork with brandied apples. And the service is, as the Irish would say, “spot on.”

• Fishy Fishy Café (County Cork; 021/470-0415): This superfriendly little restaurant is the place to go for seafood in Kinsale. No reservations, no fuss, just perfectly prepared food, sourced locally. Really local. As in, the waiter can tell you exactly who caught your dinner.

• The Wild Geese (County Limerick; 061/396451): The emphasis here is simple, but perfect: Start with superb local ingredients and build on that. This is clear in dishes such as the Irish duck confit served on wontons with sesame dressing, the Clare crabmeat soufflé, or grilled salmon with tempura vegetables.

• Moira’s at the Cromleach Lodge (County Sligo; 071/916-5155): Moira’s is well situated in the lovely country house of Cromleach Lodge, with panoramic views of Lough Arrow and environs. The menu changes nightly, depending on what is freshest and best from the sea and garden. It may include such dishes as pan-fried fish of the day with lobster tartare and champagne sauce, or grilled filet of beef with shallot and pancetta ragout and confit garlic mash.

• James Street South (Belfast; 028/9043-4310; www.jamesstreetsouth.co.uk): This fashionable place in Belfast is a hit because of the terrific cooking, which delivers modern classics with an Irish twist. The lamb is always excellent, and shouldn’t be missed. Portions are generous, the wine list very good, the crowd rapturous.

• Deane’s (Belfast; 028/9033-1134; www.michaeldeane.co.uk): Owned and run by Irish celebrity chef Michael Deane, this restaurant offers his unique approach to Irish cuisine. Using seasonal, local produce and meats, he creates Irish food with an international twist. The seafood is outstanding, and the desserts are unforgettable.

THE BEST PUBS

• Brazen Head (Dublin): Nearly qualifying as one of Ireland’s ancient sites, the Brazen Head, commissioned by Charles II, is more than 300 years old, but its stout is as fresh as it comes. Among its illustrious alumni are Wolfe Tone, Daniel O’Connell, and Robert Emmet, who planned the Dublin rising of 1803 under the Head’s low timbers.

• Abbey Tavern (Dublin): A short distance from Dublin center, the Abbey Tavern is the perfect place to recover and refuel after spending a day exploring Dublin. The Abbey is known far and wide for its ballads as well as its brew.

• The Long Valley (County Cork): For anyone who knows and loves Cork, this is a place of pilgrimage. There’s one endless, low-slung room with a bar running its full length, doors taken from an ocean liner, barmen in white butchers’ coats, and a selection of delectable sandwiches. It’s a slice of heaven.

• McGann’s (County Clare): Doolin, a dot of a town on the Clare Coast, is a magnet for traditional Irish musicians—and a wonderful spot to hear impromptu sessions of Irish music. Gus O’Connor’s, down the road, is more famous (but also thicker with tourists); McGann’s remains the genuine article without the hype.

• Moran’s Oyster Cottage (County Galway): Famed for its seafood, this centuries-old thatched-cottage pub on the weir also draws a perfect pint. This may well be the oyster capital of Ireland. It’s 19km (12 miles) out of Galway and well worth the drive—or the walk, for that matter.

• Crown Liquor Saloon (Belfast): This National Trust pub, across from the Grand Opera House in Belfast, is a Victorian gem. Your mouth will drop open at its antique publican splendor even before you lift your first pint.

THE BEST WEBSITES

• Dublin Tourist Office visitdublin.com: This site is the most comprehensive resource for visiting the capital. We especially like the last-minute booking service, which lets you find out which hotels and guesthouses have immediate availability, as well as which are offering the best discounts.

• Irelandhotels.com (www.irelandhotels.com): What catapults this accommodations database ahead of all the others is its “search by facility” function. Gotta have a gym? Need to find a babysitter? Want in-room Wi-Fi for your laptop? No problem. Plug in your requirements and you’ll get a list of hotels and guesthouses that fit the bill.

• Tourism Ireland (www.discoverireland.ie): Bord Fáilte’s site is easy to navigate and extremely informative. It’s an excellent place to gather ideas for your trip.

• AA Roadwatch (www.aaroadwatch.ie): Planning on driving? The route-planning feature of the Irish Automobile Association’s site is brilliantly simple. Plug in a starting point and destination and you’ll get a detailed, no-brainer set of directions from A to B.

• Entertainment Ireland (www.entertainment.ie): This handy, exhaustive, searchable database includes just about every event in Ireland, from museum exhibitions and rock concerts to new plays and nightclub theme nights—and there are well-written reviews of them all.

• Irish Family History Foundation (www.irishroots.net): This comprehensive genealogy resource contains documentation from all 32 counties. Much of the archived information is free for your perusal, or you can avail yourself of researchers.

• Newshound (www.nuzhound.com): Hands down, this is the best single resource for keeping up-to-date on Northern Ireland. It’s a searchable library of news articles about developments in the North, including a terrific timeline of key events in the troubles. In addition, there are articles on the Republic, as well as travel and dining reviews.

• Menu Pages (www.menupages.ie): This online restaurant guide hosts the latest menus, prices, locations, and customer reviews of restaurants in Ireland’s biggest towns. The frank reviews by recent customers can be brutally honest. Also, restaurant special offers are featured on the home page daily.

IRELAND IN DEPTH

The grounds of St. Dubhan’s Church, on the Hook Peninsula in County Cork.

This is a difficult time for Ireland, as it reels from an ongoing economic crisis and struggles to find political and financial equilibrium. In 2011, the country’s government collapsed and a new government was elected quickly, but the Irish are clearly worried about where they’re headed. A complex, small country with a deeply troubled past, Ireland is rich with history, beauty, and life. Troubled though these days are, this is a fascinating time to visit and see Ireland in transition.

IRELAND TODAY

The Irish boom economy of the late 1990s changed the country monumentally—resulting in an unprecedented spread of unbelievable wealth and a huge amount of property development. The excess associated with the boom—business executives flying from Dublin to Galway in their private helicopters for lunch at a particularly good oyster bar, for example, and small apartments in Dublin selling for millions of euros—always seemed unsustainable. And so it was. As suddenly as the boom started, it ended. Over the course of a few weeks in 2008, the economy crashed, sending the country into an economic and political tailspin. Ireland’s banks were faced with €8 billion worth of bad loans. In a country with only four million residents, that’s a catastrophe. The economy continued its freefall in 2009 and 2010. Property prices in Dublin tumbled by 50% over the course of just 18 months. In 2011, the government that led the country into the economic disaster resigned.

This all came as a shock to the Irish, who, after more than 15 years of European investment, had begun to believe their newfound affluence would last forever. As recently as 2007, the country was still pouring money into infrastructure—expanding Dublin’s tram system, building new government offices, and improving the national transportation system. The chatter of jackhammers formed a constant aural background in nearly every town in the Republic, and the dump truck seemed to be the national symbol of Ireland, as the huge vehicles trundled along by the dozen, carrying tons of gravel and sand to be used laying new roads and building new neighborhoods. But there was little sense to Ireland’s growth mania as construction far outpaced demand. Entire subdivisions were built with nobody to live in them—thousands of new homes sat empty. Developers gambling on future growth built shining new ghost towns. At the same time, property prices were so high, families crowded into tiny two-bedroom apartments, and parents commuted long distances to work in city centers where they couldn’t afford to live.

Now, it seems, birdsong is returning to Ireland. But it is a changed country—littered with unneeded subdivisions and apartment complexes, dotted with soulless glass office buildings. For a while, property prices made many Irish people millionaires—at least, on paper. Now the plunging prices have left millions of families in negative equity. The crash was so sudden, tales spread of people driving to unemployment offices in €30,000 sports cars.

At the same time, the peace that had held in the North since 1998 was shattered in 2009 by a series of brutal sectarian murders in the North. In the subsequent years, low-level violence has continued. An IRA splinter group opposed to the peace agreement calling itself “the Real IRA” claimed responsibility for most of the attacks, and several people have been arrested. Although the violence was nowhere near the levels experienced in the 1970s, it still sent a shiver down the spine of those living in both the Republic and the North, as they remembered how fragile peace can be on this island. Even before the recent outbreak, this was always the kind of place where you looked over your shoulder when you talked, even in the most inoffensive terms, about religion or politics.

In 2011, with a new government, and Enda Kenny as new taoiseach, or prime minister, the Irish hoped to put the economic nightmare behind them. Experts think the process could take years, though. Possibly decades. And Ireland may never be as wealthy as it was for a few short years during the boom. But it will survive. It has been through worse.

THE MAKING OF IRELAND

THE FIRST SETTLERS With some degree of confidence, we can place the date of the first human habitation of the island somewhere after the end of the last ice age, around the late 8000s B.C.

Ireland’s first colonizers, Mesolithic Homo sapiens, walked, waded, or floated across the narrow strait from what is now Britain in search of flint and, of course, food.

The next momentous prehistoric event was the arrival of Neolithic farmers and herders, sometime around 3500 B.C. The Neolithic “revolution” was the first of many to come to Ireland a bit late, at least 5,000 years after its inception in the ancient Near East. The domestication of the human species—settled life, agriculture, animal husbandry—brought with it a radically increased population, enhanced skills, stability, and all the implications of leisure. Unlike Ireland’s Mesolithic hunters, who barely left a trace, this second wave of colonizers began to transform the island at once. They came with stone axes that could fell a good-size elm in less than an hour. Ireland’s hardwood forests receded to make room for tilled fields and pastureland. Villages sprang up, and more permanent homes, planked with split oak, appeared at this time.

Far more striking, though, was the appearance of massive megalithic monuments, including court cairns, dolmens (stone tables), round subterranean passage tombs, and wedge tombs. There are thousands of these scattered around Ireland, and to this day only a small percentage of them have been excavated. These megalithic monuments speak volumes about the early Irish. To visit Newgrange and Knowth in the Boyne Valley and Carrowmore in County Sligo is to marvel at the mystical practices of the early Irish. Even today little is known about the meaning of these mysterious stone remnants of their lives.

Early Celtic inhabitants of the island assumed that the tremendous stones and mounds were raised by giants. They called them the people of the sí, who eventually became the Tuatha Dé Danann, and, finally, fairies. Over many generations of oral tradition, the mythical people were downsized into “little people,” who were believed to have led a magical life, mostly underground, in the thousands of raths, or earthwork structures, coursing the island like giant mole tunnels. All of these sites were believed to be protected by the fairies, and to tamper with them was believed to bring great bad luck, so nobody ever touched them. Thus they have lasted to this day—ungraffitied, undamaged, unprotected by any visible fences or wires, but utterly safe.

THE CELTS Of all the successive waves of outsiders who have, over the years, shaped, cajoled, and pockmarked the timeline of Irish history, none have made quite such a deep-seated impact as that of the Celts. They came in waves, the first perhaps as early as the 6th century B.C. and continuing until the end of the 1st millennium. They fled from the Roman invasion and clung to the edge of Europe—Ireland being, at the time, about as far as you could go to elude a Roman force. In time, they controlled the island and absorbed into their culture everyone they found there. Their ways—and their genes—dominated. They brought iron weapons; chariots; cults and contests; and poetry, music, and other forms of artistic genius, all of which took root and flourished in Irish soil.

DATELINE

ca. 8000 b.c. Earliest known human settlers arrive in Ireland.

2000 b.c. First metalworkers come to Ireland.

ca. 700 b.c. Celtic settlement of Ireland begins.

ca. a.d. 100 The Gaels arrive in Ireland, naming one of their biggest settlements Dubhlinn.

a.d. 432 Traditional date of St. Patrick’s return to Ireland as a Christian missionary.

500–800 Ireland becomes one of the largest centers of Christianity in Europe—often referred to as the “Golden Age.”

795 First Viking invasion.

841 Vikings build a sea fort in the area of modern-day Dublin.

853 Danes take possession of the Norse settlement.

1014 Battle of Clontarf. High king of Ireland, Brian Boru, defeats the Vikings.

1167–71 Forces of English King Henry II seize Dublin and surrounding areas.

1204 Dublin Castle becomes center of English power.

1297 First parliamentary sessions in Dublin.

1300s First great plague kills a third of the population of Dublin.

1500s English rule consolidated across Ireland. Henry VIII proclaims himself king of Ireland.

1534–52 Henry VIII begins suppression of Catholic Church in Ireland.

1558–1603 Reign of Elizabeth I. Ireland proclaimed an Anglican country. The “plantation” of Munster divides Ireland into counties.

1591 Trinity College founded.

1607 The flight of the Irish earls, marking the demise of the old Gaelic order.

1641 Irish Catholic revolt in Ulster led by Sir Phelim O’Neill ends in defeat.

1649 Oliver Cromwell invades and begins the reconquest of Ireland.

1690 The forces of King James II, a Catholic, are defeated at the Battle of the Boyne, consolidating Protestant order in England.

1691 Patrick Sarsfield surrenders Limerick. He and some 14,000 Irish troops, the “Wild Geese,” flee to the Continent.

1704 Enactment of first Penal Laws. Apartheid comes to Ireland.

1778 The Penal Laws are progressively repealed.

1782 The Irish Parliament is granted independence.

1791 Wolfe Tone founds the Society of the United Irishmen.

1796–97 Wolfe Tone launches an invasion from France, fails, is taken captive, and commits suicide.

1798 “The Year of the French.” A French invasion force is defeated at Killala Bay. General Humbert surrenders to Cornwallis.

1801 The Irish Parliament is induced to dissolve itself. Ireland becomes part of the United Kingdom.

1803 Twenty-five-year-old Robert Emmet is hanged after his uprising of fewer than 100 men is a tragic failure.

1829 Daniel O’Connell secures passage of the Catholic Emancipation Act. He is later named lord mayor of Dublin.

1845–c.52 The Great Famine. An estimated two million Irish either die or emigrate, mostly to the U.S.

1848 The revolt of the Young Irelanders ends in failure.

1858 The Irish Republican Brotherhood, a secret society known as the Fenians, is founded in New York.

1866 In an imaginative publicity stunt, a minuscule army of Fenians attempts to invade Canada.

1879 Michael Davitt founds the National Land League to support the claims of tenant farmers.

1879–82 The “land war” forces the enactment of reform. The tenant system unravels; land returns to those who work it.

1886 and Bills for Home Rule are defeated 1894 in Parliament.

1893 The Gaelic League is founded to revive the Irish language.

1904 The Abbey Theatre opens in Dublin.

1905–08 Founding of Sinn Fein (“We Ourselves”) with close links to the Irish Republican Brotherhood.

1912 Third Home Rule bill passes in the House of Commons and is defeated by the House of Lords.

1916 Patrick Pearse and James Connolly lead an armed uprising on Easter Monday to proclaim the Irish Republic. Defeat is followed by the execution of 15 leaders of the revolt.

1918 Sinn Fein wins a landslide election victory against the Irish Parliamentary Party.

1919 Sinn Fein, led by Eamon de Valera, constitutes itself as the first Irish Dáil and declares independence.

1919–21 The Irish War of Independence. Michael Collins commands the Irish forces.

1921 Anglo-Irish Treaty. Ireland is partitioned. Twenty-six counties form the Free State; the other six remain a part of the U.K. The Free State adopts its first constitution a year later.

1922–23 The Irish civil war, between the government of the Free State and those who opposed the Anglo-Irish treaty. Michael Collins is assassinated by the IRA, who saw the treaty as a sellout.

1932 Eamon de Valera leads Fianna Fáil to victory and becomes head of government.

1937 The Free State adopts a new constitution, abandoning membership of the British Commonwealth and changing the country’s official name to Eire.

1939 Dublin is bombed by Germany at start of World War II, but Ireland remains neutral.

1948 The Republic of Ireland Act. Ireland severs its last constitutional links with Britain.

1955 Ireland is admitted into the United Nations.

1963 U.S. President John F. Kennedy visits Dublin.

1969 Violence breaks out in Northern Ireland. British troops are called in.

1972 In Derry a peaceful rally turns into “Bloody Sunday.” The Northern Irish Parliament is dissolved, and direct rule imposed from Britain.

1973 Ireland joins the European Community.

1986 The Anglo-Irish Agreement gives the Republic a say in the government of Northern Ireland.

1990 Mary Robinson is elected Ireland’s first female president.

1994 The IRA announces a cease-fire, and the Protestant paramilitaries follow suit. Commencement of peace talks.

1995 The British and Irish governments issue “A New Framework for Agreement,” and U.S. President Bill Clinton makes a historic visit to Ireland, speaking to large crowds in Belfast and Derry. He is received with enthusiasm in the Republic.

1996 The IRA breaks its cease-fire. An IRA bomb in Omagh kills 29. The North sees the worst rioting in 15 years.

1997 The IRA declares a new cease-fire. Sinn Fein enters inclusive all-party peace talks designed to bring about a comprehensive settlement.

1998 The all-party peace talks conclude with the so-called Good Friday Agreement, later strongly supported in referendums held on the same day in the Republic and the North. John Hume and David Trimble are awarded the Nobel Peace Prize.

1999 The implementation of the agreement is blocked by a Unionist demand—“in the spirit” but contrary to the letter of the Good Friday Agreement—that IRA decommissioning precede the appointment of a new Northern Ireland executive. The peace process stalls until November, when the new power-sharing Northern Ireland Executive is established.

2000 The IRA issues a statement saying it will decommission its arms. In May, power is restored to the institutions established by the Good Friday Agreement.

2001 David Trimble threatens to resign as Ulster Unionist party leader if the IRA does not decommission as promised. The IRA doesn’t; Trimble resigns in June. Following a surge of feeling in the wake of the September 11 terrorist attacks on the U.S., IRA decommissioning begins.

2002 The peace process continues amid sectarian violence on both sides.

2004 Irish government passes smoking ban in all public indoor spaces. U.S. President George W. Bush arrives for E.U.-U.S. Summit and is greeted with anti–Iraq War protests.

2005 A £27-million bank robbery in Northern Ireland—thought to be the work of an IRA splinter group—leads to the withdrawal of the region’s entire currency stocks. David Trimble loses his parliamentary seat, but hard-line parties Sinn Fein and the Democratic Unionist Party (DUP) do extremely well. The IRA decommissioning process is officially declared complete, and the IRA disbands as a paramilitary unit.

2007 A power-sharing executive is put into place in Northern Ireland, bringing together lifelong enemies DUP leader Ian Paisley and Sinn Fein leader Gerry Adams.

2008 Ireland’s economy begins to crash as the country becomes the first in the E.U. to officially enter recession.

2009 A series of sectarian murders in Northern Ireland threatens the peace process, though virtually all sides unite in condemnation.

2010 British prime minister David Cameron apologized for “Bloody Sunday”—when British soldiers killed 14 Irish protesters in Bogside, a Catholic neighborhood in Derry, Northern Ireland, in 1972.

2011 Longtime ruling party Fianna Fáil is swept out of office on a wave of voter anger, replaced by Fine Gael. New taoiseach Enda Kenny vows to restore Irish economic stability.

Despite their cultural potency, however, the Celts developed little in the way of centralized government, existing instead in a near-perpetual state of division and conflict with one another. The island was divided among as many as 150 tribes, grouped under alliances to five provincial kings. The provinces of Munster, Leinster, Ulster, and Connaught date from this period. They fought fiercely among themselves over cattle (their “currency” and standard of wealth), land, and women. None among them ever ruled the entire island, though not for lack of trying. One of the most impressive monuments from the time of the warring Celts is the stone fortress of Dún Aengus, on the wind-swept hills of the Aran Islands.

THE COMING OF CHRISTIANITY The Celtic chiefs neither warmly welcomed nor violently resisted the Christians who came ashore beginning in the 5th century A.D. Although threatened, the pagan Celts settled for a bloodless rivalry with this new religion. In retrospect, this may have been a mistake.

Not the first, but eventually the most famous, of these Christian newcomers was a man called Maewyn Succat, a young Roman citizen torn from his Welsh homeland in a Celtic raid and brought to Ireland as a slave, where he was forced to work in a place called the Forest of Foclut (thought to be around modern County Antrim). He escaped on a ship bound for France, where he spent several years as a priest before returning to Ireland as a missionary. He began preaching at sacred Celtic festivals, a tactic that frequently led to confrontations with religious and political leaders, but eventually he became such a popular figure with the people of Ireland that after his death in 461, a dozen clan chiefs fought over the right to bury him. His lasting legacy was, of course, the establishment in Ireland of one of the strongest Christian orthodoxies in Europe—an achievement for which he was later beatified as St. Patrick.

Ireland’s conversion to Christianity was a somewhat negotiated process. The church at the time of St. Patrick was, like the man who brought it, Roman. To Ireland, an island then still without a single proper town, the Roman system of dioceses and archdioceses didn’t apply to the way they lived. So the Irish adapted the church to their own situation. They built isolated monasteries with extended monastic “families,” each more or less autonomous. The pope, like an Irish high king, was to them like an ordained prizefighter—he was expected to defend his title, one challenge after another, or lose it.

Ireland flourished in this fashion for several centuries, and became a center of monastic learning and culture. Monks and scholars were drawn to it in droves, and they were sent out in great numbers as well, to Britain and the Continent as emissaries for the island’s way of thinking and praying.

As the historian Thomas Cahill wrote in How the Irish Saved Civilization (Nan A. Talese, 1995), “Wherever they went the Irish brought with them their books, many unseen in Europe for centuries and tied to their waists as signs of triumph, just as Irish heroes had once tied to their waists their enemies’ heads.” And they worked with a fervor; in fact, they worked so hard that the Irish penned more than half the biblical commentaries written worldwide between A.D. 650 and 850.

Like their megalithic ancestors, these monks left traces of their lives behind, and these have become enduring monuments to their spirituality. Early monastic sites such as gorgeous Glendalough in County Wicklow, wind-swept Clonmacnois in County Offaly, and isolated Skellig Michael off the Kerry coast give you an idea of how they lived, while striking examples of their work can be seen at Trinity College (which houses the Book of Kells) and at the Chester Beatty museum at Dublin Castle.

THE VIKING INVASIONS The monastic city-states of early medieval Ireland might have continued to lead the world’s intellectual process, but the Vikings came along and ruined everything. After centuries of relative peace, the first wave of Viking invaders arrived in A.D. 795. The wealthy nonviolent Irish monasteries were among their first targets. Unprepared and unprotected, the monasteries, which had amassed collections of gold, jewels, and art from followers and thinkers around the world, were decimated. The round towers to which the monks retreated for safety were neither high enough nor strong enough to protect them and their treasures from the onslaught.

Once word spread of the wealth to be had on the small island, the Scandinavian invaders just kept on coming, but much as they were experts in the arts of pillage and plunder, one thing of which they had no knowledge was literature. They didn’t know how to read. Therefore, they paid scant attention to the magnificent books they came across, passing them over for more obvious riches. This fortunate quirk of history allowed the monks some means of preserving their dying culture—and their immeasurably valuable work—for the benefit of future generations.

Of course, the Vikings did more than hit and run. They settled down and took over much of the country—securing every major harbor on Ireland’s east coast with a fortified town. These were the first real towns in Ireland: In addition to Dublin, they also founded Cork, Waterford, and the river city of Limerick. They had plundered the country fairly thoroughly by the time the Irish, always disinclined to unite, did so at last, and managed to push out the Vikings after a decisive military campaign lead by the army of Brian Boru in 1014. When the Vikings departed, they left their towns behind, forever altering the Irish landscape. The legacy of the Vikings in Ireland is complex, and a visit to Dublin’s Wood Quay and the city walls of Waterford is a good introduction to their influence.

With the Vikings gone, Ireland enjoyed something of a renewal in the 11th and 12th centuries. Its towns grew, its regional kings made successive unsuccessful bids to unite the country under a single high kingship, and its church came under increased pressure to conform to the Vatican’s rules. All of these factors would play a part in ripening Ireland for the next invasion.

The Vikings may have been gone, but prosperous and factionalized Ireland made attractive prey to other nations, and it was, tragically, an Irish king who opened the door to the next predator. Diarmait Mac Murchada, king of Leinster, whose ambition was to be king of all of Ireland, decided he could do it, with a little help. So he called on Henry II, the Norman king of England. Diarmait offered Henry a series of incentives in return for military aid: Not only did he bequeath his eldest daughter to whoever led the army, but he also offered them overlordship of the Kingdom of Leinster. To put it bluntly, he made Henry an offer he couldn’t refuse. So it was that an expeditionary force, led by the Earl of Pembroke, Richard de Clare—better known as Strongbow—was sent to Diarmait’s aid. After the successful invasion and subsequent battles in which Strongbow emerged victorious, he remained in Ireland as governor, and thus gave the English their first foothold in Ireland. What Diarmait did not realize, of course, was that they would never leave.

THE NORMAN INVASION In successive expeditions from 1167 to 1169, the Normans, who had already conquered Britain, crossed the Irish Sea from England with crushing force. The massive Norman fortifications at Trim are a powerful reminder of the sheer power the invaders brought with them. During the next century, the Norman-English settled in, consolidating their power in new towns and cities. Indeed, many settlers grew attached to the island, and did their best to integrate with the local culture. Marriages between the native Irish and the invaders became commonplace. Over the next couple of centuries, they became more Irish and less English in their loyalties.

In 1314 Scotland’s Robert the Bruce defeated the English at Bannockburn and set out to fulfill his dream of a united Celtic kingdom. He installed his brother Edward on the Irish throne, but the constant state of war took a heavy toll. Within 2 years, famine and economic disorder had eroded any public support Edward might have enjoyed. By the time he was defeated and killed at Dundalk in 1317, few were prepared to mourn him.

Over the next 2 centuries, attempts to rid Ireland of its English overlords fell short. Independent Gaelic lords in the north and west continued to maintain their territories. By the close of the 15th century, English control of the island was effectively limited to the Pale, a walled and fortified cordon around what is now greater Dublin. (The phrase “beyond the pale” comes from this—meaning anything that is uncontrollable or unacceptable.)

ENGLISH POWER & THE FLIGHT OF THE EARLS During the reign of the Tudor monarchs in England (1485–1603), the brutal reconquest of Ireland was set in motion. Henry VIII was the first to proclaim himself king of all Ireland—something even his warlike ancestors had stopped short of doing—but it wasn’t until later that century that the claim was backed up by force. Elizabeth I, Henry’s daughter, declared that all Gaelic lords in Ireland must surrender their lands to her, with the dubious promise that she would immediately grant them all back again—unsurprisingly, the proposition was hardly welcomed in Ireland, and a rebel army was raised by Hugh O’Neill and “Red” Hugh O’Donnell, two Irish chieftains.

Despite significant victories early on in their decade-long campaign, most notably over a force led by the Earl of Essex, whom Elizabeth had personally sent to subdue them, by 1603 O’Neill was left with few allies and no option but to surrender, which he did on March 23, the day before Elizabeth died. O’Neill had his lands returned, but constant harassment by the English prompted him, along with many of Ireland’s other Gaelic lords, to sail for Europe on September 14, 1607, abandoning their lands and their aspirations for freedom.

THE COMING OF CROMWELL By the 1640s, Ireland was effectively an English plantation. Family estates had been seized and foreign (Scottish) labor brought in to work them. A systematic persecution of Catholics, which began with Henry VIII’s split from Rome but did not die with him, barred Catholics from practicing their faith. Resentment against the English and their punitive laws led to fierce uprisings in Ulster and Leinster in 1641, and by early 1642 most of Ireland was again under Irish control. Unfortunately for the rebels, any hope of extending the victories was destroyed by internal disunion and by the eventual decision to support the Royalist side in the English civil war. In 1648 King Charles I of England was beheaded, and the victorious commander of the parliamentary forces, Oliver Cromwell, was installed as ruler. Soon his supporters were taking on his enemies in Ireland. A year later, the Royalists’ stand collapsed in defeat at Rathmines, just south of Dublin.

Defeat for the Royalist cause did not, however, mean the end of the war. Cromwell became paranoid that Ireland would be used to launch a French-backed insurgency if it was not brought to heel, and he detested the country’s Catholic beliefs. So it was that as the hot, sticky summer of 1649 drew to a close, Cromwell set sail for Dublin, bringing with him an army of 12,000 men, and a battle plan so ruthless that it remains notorious to this day.

In the town of Drogheda, more than 3,552 Irish soldiers were slaughtered in a single night. When a group of men sought sanctuary in the local church, Cromwell ordered the church burned down with them locked inside—an act of such monstrosity that some of his own men risked a charge of mutiny and refused the order. On another day, in Wexford, more than 2,000 were murdered, many of them civilians. The trail of destruction rolled on, devastating counties Galway and Waterford. When asked where the Irish citizens could go to be safe from him, Cromwell famously suggested they could go “to hell or Connaught”—the latter being the most far-flung, rocky, and unfarmable part of Ireland.

After a rampage that lasted 7 months, killing thousands and leaving churches, monasteries and castles in ruins, Cromwell finally left Ireland in the care of his lieutenants and returned to England. Hundreds of years later, the memory and lore of his extraordinary violence lingers painfully in Ireland. In certain parts of the country, people still spit at the mention of his name.

THE PENAL LAWS Cromwell died in 1658, and 2 years later the English monarchy was restored, but the anti-Catholic oppression continued. In 1685, though, something quite remarkable happened. Contrary to the efforts of the English establishment, the new king, James II, refused to relinquish his Catholic faith after ascending to the throne. It looked for a while as if things could change in Ireland, and that the Catholics might have found a new ally in the unlikeliest of quarters. However, such hopes were dashed 3 years later, when James was ousted from power, and the Protestant William of Orange installed in his place.

James fled to France to raise support for a rebellion, then sailed to Ireland to launch his attack. He struck first at Derry, to which he laid siege for 15 weeks before finally being defeated by William’s forces at the Battle of the Boyne. The battle effectively ended James’s cause, and with it, the hopes of Catholic Ireland for the best part of a century.

After James’s defeat, English power was once more consolidated across Ireland. Protestant landowners were granted full political power, while laws were enacted to effectively immobilize the Catholic population. Being a Catholic in late-17th-century Ireland was not exactly illegal per se, but in practice life was all but impossible for those who refused to convert to Protestantism. Catholics could not purchase land, and existing landholdings were split up unless the families who owned them became Protestants; Catholic schools were banned, as were priests and all forms of public worship. Catholics were barred from holding any office of state, practicing law, or joining the army. Those who still refused to relinquish their faith were forced to pay a tax to the Anglican church, and by virtue of not being able to own land, the few who previously had been allowed to vote certainly were not anymore.

The new British landlords settled in, planted crops, made laws, and sowed their own seeds. Inevitably, over time, the “Anglos” became the Anglo-Irish. Hyphenated or not, they were Irish, and their loyalties were increasingly unpredictable. After all, an immigrant is only an immigrant for a generation; whatever the birthright of the colonists, their children would be Irish-born and bred. And so it was that an uncomfortable sort of stability set in for a generation or three, albeit of a kind that was very much separate and unequal. There were the haves—the wealthy Protestants—and the have-nots—the deprived and disenfranchised Catholics.

A kind of unhappy peace held for some time. But by the end of the 18th century, the appetite for rebellion was whetted again. To understand why, one need look no further than the intellectual hotbed that flourished among the coffee shops and lecture halls of Europe’s newest boomtown: Dublin.

WOLFE TONE, THE UNITED IRISHMEN & THE 1798 REBELLION By the 1770s, Dublin was thriving as never before. As a center for culture and learning, it was rivaled only by Paris and London; thanks to the work of such architects as Henry Gratton (who designed Custom House, the Kings Inns, and the Four Courts), its very streets were being remodeled in a grand, neoclassical style that was more akin to the great cities of southern Italy than of southern Ireland.

However, while the urban classes reveled in their newfound wealth, the stringent Penal Laws that had effectively cut off the Catholic workers from their own countryside forced many of them to turn to the city for work. In Dublin’s buzzing intellectual scene political dissent soon brewed, and even after a campaign by Irish politicians led to many of the Penal Laws being repealed in 1783, Dublin was a breeding ground for radicals and political activists. The results were explosive.

When war broke out between Britain and France in the 1790s, the United Irishmen—a nonviolent society formed to lobby for admission of Catholic Irishmen to the Irish Parliament—sent a secret delegation to persuade the French to intervene on Ireland’s behalf against the British. Their emissary in this venture was a Dublin lawyer named Wolfe Tone. In 1796 Tone sailed with a French force bound for Ireland and determined to defeat forces loyal to the English crown, but they were turned back by storms.

In 1798, though, full-scale insurrection led by the United Irishmen did spread across much of Ireland, particularly the southwestern counties of Kilkenny and Wexford, where a tiny republic was briefly declared in June. But it was crushed by Loyalist forces, which then went on a murderous spree, killing tens of thousands of men, women, and children, and burning towns to the ground. The nadir of the rebellion came when Wolfe Tone, having raised another French invasion force, sailed into Lough Swilley in Donegal, but was promptly captured by the British. At his trial, wearing a French uniform, Tone requested that he be shot, in accordance with the rights of a foreign soldier, but when the request was refused, he suffered a more gruesome end. While waiting for the gallows, he slit his own throat in jail; however, he missed the jugular vein, instead severing his windpipe, leading to a slow and painful death 8 days later. His last words were reputed to have been: “It appears, sir, that I am but a bad anatomist.”

The rebellion was over. In the space of 3 weeks, more than 30,000 Irish had been killed. As a final indignity in what became known as “The Year of the French,” the British tricked the Irish Parliament into dissolving itself, and Ireland reverted to strict British rule.

A CONFLICT OF CONFLICTS In 1828 a Catholic lawyer named Daniel O’Connell, who had earlier formed the Catholic Association to represent the interests of tenant farmers, was elected to the British Parliament as Member of Parliament for Dublin. Public opinion was so solidly behind him that he was able to persuade the British prime minister that the only way to avoid a civil war in Ireland was to force the Catholic Emancipation Act through Parliament. He remained an MP until 1841, when he was elected Lord Mayor of Dublin, a platform he used to push for repeal of the direct rule imposed from London after the 1798 rebellion.

O’Connell organized enormous rallies (nicknamed “monster meetings”) attended by hundreds of thousands, and provoked an unresponsive conservative government to such an extent that it eventually arrested him on charges of seditious conspiracy. The charges were dropped, but the incident—coupled with growing impatience toward his nonviolent approach of protest and reform—led to the breakdown of his power base. “The Liberator,” as he had been known, faded, his health failed, and he died on a trip to Rome.

AN BHFUIL GAEILGE AGAT? (DO YOU speak IRISH?)

Ireland has two official languages, Irish Gaelic and English. Today English is still the first and most commonly spoken language for the vast majority of the Irish people. But there was at time when that wasn’t the case. In 1835 the Irish-speaking population of Ireland was reckoned at four million. The British suppressed the language—forbidding its use and teaching—so thoroughly that soon few could remember it. When the 2002 census was taken, just under 60,000 Irish residents said they spoke Gaelic.

There is a huge and emotional pro-Irish-language movement underway in Ireland right now—one that is disproportionate to the actual number of Irish speakers (although the popularity of the language is growing, particularly among the young, as all Irish children now learn Gaelic in school). All Irish citizens are now entitled by law to conduct any official business with the state (legal proceedings, university interviews, and filing taxes, for example) in Gaelic. Increasingly, street signs are in both Gaelic and English, and many towns are reverting to their Gaelic names (which often bear no resemblance to their old English names).

Areas of the country (counties Kerry, Galway, and Donegal in particular) where Gaelic is widely spoken are Gaelic protection zones called Gaeltacht, and in those areas all English words have been removed from road signs, warning signs, and street signs. This has cartographers moving as rapidly as possible (which, unfortunately, isn’t that fast) to rewrite maps in order to keep up, but the simple fact is you’re likely to have a map that still calls the Dingle “Dingle,” rather than the name that all the street signs now call it: “An Daingean.” And even the cartographers won’t tell you the Gaelic word for “Caution.”

The growing Gaeltacht movement in Ireland is increasingly aggressive, with a bit of a nationalistic bent, and its proponents want to make no exceptions to the strict anti-English rules on signage for the millions of tourists who visit the island every year. This means that visitors are more likely to find themselves utterly lost—clutching a map in which the town’s names are all in English, and standing in a town in which all street names are in Gaelic. Should this happen to you, don’t hesitate to ask for help—all Irish residents who speak Gaelic also speak English, and most are very sympathetic to the plight of nonresidents who do not know this complex, ancient language.

THE GREAT FAMINE Even after the anti-Catholic legislation began to recede, the vast majority of farmland available to the poor, mostly Catholic population of the countryside was harsh, and difficult to cultivate. One of the few crops that could be grown reliably was the potato, which effectively became the staple diet of the rural poor. So when, in 1845, a fungus destroyed much of the potato crop of Ireland, it is not difficult to understand the scale of the devastation this caused. However, to label the Great Irish Famine of the 1840s and 50s as a “tragedy” would be an incomplete description. It was, of course, tragic—undeniably, overwhelmingly so—but at the same time, the word implies a randomness to the whole sorry, sickening affair that fails to capture its true awfulness. The fact is that what started out as a disaster was turned into a devastating crisis by the callous response of an uninterested British establishment.

As the potato blight worsened, it became apparent to many landlords that their farm tenants would be unable to pay rent. In order to offset their financial losses, they continued to ship grain overseas, in lieu of rent from their now-starving tenants. The British Parliament, meanwhile, was reluctant to send aid, putting the reports of a crisis down to, in the words of Prime Minister Robert Peel, “the Irish tendency to exaggerate.”

Of course, as people started to die by the thousands, it became clear to the government that something had to be done, and emergency relief was sent to Ireland in the form of cheap, imported Indian cornmeal. However, this contained virtually no nutrients, and ultimately contributed to the spread of such diseases as typhus and cholera, which were to claim more victims than starvation itself.

To make matters worse, the cornmeal was not simply given to those in need of it. Fearful that handouts would encourage laziness among a population they viewed as prone to that malaise, the British government forced people to work for their food. Entirely pointless make-work projects were initiated, just to give the starving men something to do for their cornmeal; roads were built that led nowhere, for instance, and elaborate follies constructed that served no discernible purpose, some of which still litter the countryside today, memorials to cruelty and ignorance.

One of the most difficult things to comprehend a century and a half later is the sheer futility of it all. For behind the statistics, the memorials, and the endless personal anguish, lies perhaps the most painful truth of all: that the famine was easily preventable. Enormous cargoes of imported corn sat in Irish ports for months, until the British government felt that releasing them to the people would not adversely affect market rates. Meanwhile, huge quantities of meat and grain were exported from Ireland. (Indeed, in 1847, cattle exports went up 33% from the previous year.)

Given the circumstances, it is easy to understand why so many chose to leave Ireland. More than a million emigrated over the next decade, about three-quarters of them to America, the rest to Britain or Europe. They drained the country. In 1841, Ireland’s population was 8 million; by 1851 it was 6.5 million.

THE STRUGGLE FOR HOME RULE As the famine waned and life returned to something like normality, the Irish independence movement gained new momentum. New fronts opened up in the struggle for Home Rule, both violent and nonviolent, and, significantly, the Republicans now drew considerable support from overseas—particularly from America. There, groups such as the Fenians fund-raised and published newspapers in support of the Irish cause, while more audacious schemes, such as an 1866 “invasion” of Canada with fewer than 100 men, amounted to little more than publicity stunts, designed to raise awareness for the cause.

Back home in Ireland, partial concessions were won in Parliament, and by the 1880s, nationalists such as the MP for Meath, Charles Stewart Parnell, were able to unite various factions of Irish nationalists (including the Fenian Brotherhood in America) to fight for Home Rule. In a tumultuous decade of legislation, he came close, but revelations about his long affair with Kitty O’Shea, the wife of a supporter, brought about his downfall as a politician.

By 1912, a bill to give Ireland Home Rule was passed through the British House of Commons, but was defeated in the House of Lords. Many felt that the political process was still all but unstoppable, and that it was only a matter of time before the bill passed fully into law and effective political independence for Ireland would be secured. However, when the onset of World War I in 1914 forced the issue onto the back burner once again, many in the Home Rule movement grew tired of the political process.

THE EASTER REBELLION On Easter Monday 1916, a group of nationalists occupied the General Post Office in the heart of Dublin, from which they proclaimed the foundation of an Irish Republic. Inside were 1,500 fighters, led by schoolteacher and Gaelic League member Patrick Pearse and Socialist leader James Connolly.

The British, nervous at an armed uprising on its doorstep while it fought a massive war in Europe, responded with overwhelming force. Soldiers were sent in, and a battle raged in the streets of Dublin for 6 days before the leaders of the rebellion were captured and imprisoned. There are still bullet holes in the walls of the post office and the buildings and statues up and down O’Connell Street. Pearse, Connolly, and 12 other leaders were imprisoned, secretly tried, and speedily executed.

Ultimately, though, the British reaction was as counterproductive as it was harsh. The totality with which those involved in organizing the rebellion were pursued and dispatched acted as a lightning rod for many of those who had been undecided about the effectiveness of a purely political struggle. Indeed, a fact that has become somewhat lost in the ensuing hundred or so years since Patrick Pearse stood on the steps of the post office early on that cold Monday morning, reading a treatise on Irish independence, is that a great many Irish didn’t support the rebellion at the time. Many either believed that the best course of action was to lie low until the war had ended, when concessions would be won as a result, or that it was simply the wrong thing to do, as long as sons of Ireland were sacrificing their lives in the trenches of Europe.

The aftermath of 1916 all but guaranteed, for better or for worse, that Ireland’s future would be decided by the gun.

REBELLION A power vacuum was left at the heart of the nationalist movement after the Easter Rising, and it was filled by two men: Michael Collins and Eamon de Valera. On the surface, both men had much in common; Collins was a Cork man who had returned from Britain in order to join the Irish Volunteers (later to become the Irish Republican Army, or IRA), while de Valera was an Irish-American math teacher who came back to Ireland to set up a new political party, Sinn Fein.

When de Valera’s party won a landslide victory in the general election of 1918, its MPs refused to sit in London, instead proclaiming the first Dáil, or independent parliament, in Dublin. De Valera went to rally support for the cause in America, while Collins stayed to concentrate on his work as head of the Irish Volunteers. Tensions escalated into violence, and for the next 2 years, Irish nationalists fought a tit-for-tat military campaign against the British in Ireland.

Impressions

You cannot conquer Ireland. You cannot extinguish the Irish passion for freedom. If our deed has not been sufficient to win freedom, then our children will win it by a better deed.

—Patrick Pearse (1879–1916)

The low point of the struggle came in 1920, when Collins ordered 14 British operatives to be murdered in their beds, in response to which British troops opened fire on the audience at a football game at Croke Park in Dublin, randomly killing 12 innocent people. A truce was eventually declared on July 9, 1921, and 6 months later, the Anglo-Irish treaty was signed in London, granting legislative independence to 26 Irish counties (known together as the Irish Free State). The compromise through which that freedom was won, though, was that six counties in the north would remain part of the United Kingdom. Collins knew that compromise would not be accepted by the more strident members of his rebel group. And he knew they would blame him for agreeing to it in the first place. When he signed the treaty he told the people present, “I am signing my own death warrant.”

As he feared, nationalists were split between those who accepted the treaty as a platform on which to build, and those, led by the nationalist de Valera, who saw it as a betrayal, and would accept nothing less than immediate and full independence at any cost. Even the withdrawal of British troops from Dublin for the first time in nearly 800 years did not quell their anger. The result was an inexorable slide into civil war. The flashpoint came in April 1922, when violence erupted around the streets of the capital, and rolled on for 8 days until de Valera’s supporters were forced to surrender.

The government of the fledgling free state ordered that Republicans be shot on sight, leading to the deaths of 77 people. And Collins had been right about his own fate: Four months later he was assassinated while on a visit to his childhood home.

The fallout from the civil war dominated Irish politics for the next decade. De Valera split from the Republicans to form another party, Fianna Fáil (“the Warriors of Ireland”), which won the election of 1932 and governed for 17 years. Despite his continuing dedication to the Republican ideal, however, de Valera was not to be the one who finally declared Ireland a republic, in 1948; ironically, that distinction went to a coalition led by de Valera’s opponent, Douglas Hyde, whose victory in the election of 1947 was attributed to the fact that de Valera had become too obsessed with abstract Republican ideals to govern effectively.

STUCK IN NEUTRAL One of the more controversial, not to say morally ambiguous, decisions that Eamon de Valera made while in office was to stay neutral during World War II, despite the best efforts of Winston Churchill and Franklin Roosevelt to persuade him otherwise. The basis for his decision—a combination of Ireland’s size and economic weakness, and the British presence in Northern Ireland—may have made sense to some extent, but it left Ireland in the peculiar position of tacitly favoring one side in the war, but refusing to help it. After the death of Adolf Hitler in April 1945, de Valera alienated the Allies further by sending his personal sympathies to the German ambassador.

His reticence didn’t find much favor among the Irish population either. During the war, as many as 300,000 Irish men found ways to enlist in the British or U.S. armies. In the end, more than 50,000 Irish soldiers perished in a war their country had refused to join.

TROUBLE ON THE WAY After the war, 2 decades passed without violence in Ireland, until the late 1960s once more saw the outbreak of sectarian conflict in the North. What started out as a civil rights movement, to demand greater equality for Catholics within Northern Ireland, soon escalated into a cycle of violence that lasted for 30 years.

It would be a terrible oversimplification to say that the Troubles were merely a clear-cut struggle between those who wanted to complete the process of Irish unification and those who wanted to remain part of the United Kingdom, although that was, of course, the crux of the conflict. Factors such as organized crime and terrorism, together with centuries-old conflicts over religious, land, and social issues, make the conflict even harder for outsiders to understand.

The worst of the Troubles came in the 1970s. In 1972, British troops inexplicably opened fire on a peaceful demonstration in Derry, killing 12 people—many of whom were shot while they tended to the wounds of the first people injured. The IRA took advantage of the mood of public outrage to begin a civilian bombing campaign on the British mainland. The cycle of violence continued for 20 years, inexorably and depressingly, while all the while, none of the myriad sides in the conflict would talk to each other. Finally, in the early 1990s, secret talks were opened between the British and the IRA, leading to an IRA cease-fire in 1994 (although the cease-fire held only shakily—an IRA bomb in Omagh 4 years later killed 29, the most to die in any single incident of the Troubles).

The peace process continued throughout the 1990s, helped significantly by the mediation efforts of U.S. President Bill Clinton, who arguably became more involved in Irish affairs than any president before him until, eventually, on Good Friday 1998, a peace accord was finally signed in Belfast. The agreement committed all sides to a peaceful resolution of the conflict in Northern Ireland, and included the reinstatement of full self-government for the region in a power-sharing administration. It stopped short of resolving the territorial issue once and for all—in other words, Northern Ireland is still part of the U.K., and will be for the foreseeable future. On the contrary, to some extent the conflicts rage more bitterly and more divisively than ever before, the difference being that, with notable exceptions, they are fought through the ballot box, rather than the barrel of a gun. In 2005 the IRA fully decommissioned its weapons, and officially dissolved itself as a paramilitary unit.

The peace held until 2009, when violence again broke out in the North, and as this book was going to press, efforts were underway to stop the North from spinning again into a tailspin of attack and counterattack.

But in 2010, after an investigation that took 12 years and cost nearly £195 million, all 13 people killed on Bloody Sunday were officially cleared of any wrongdoing. Britain’s new prime minister, David Cameron, said, “There is no doubt. There is nothing equivocal. There are no ambiguities. What happened on Bloody Sunday was both unjustified and unjustifiable. It was wrong.”

While Northern Ireland still struggled to find peace, the Republic of Ireland flourished. The 1990s brought unprecedented wealth and prosperity to the country, thanks in part to European Union subsidies, and partly to a thriving economy, which acquired the nickname “the Celtic Tiger” for its new global strength. But that too came crashing down in 2009, as the property market crashed and the economy crumbled, as detailed in the introduction to this chapter. The country was scrambling to find firm economic ground as this book was being written. But that firm ground was proving awfully hard to find.

IRELAND IN POPULAR CULTURE

Books

FICTION Ireland is one of the most written-about places in the world. If you’re looking to read about the country before your trip, you’re going to be busy.

If you’re especially ambitious, you could bite off James Joyce’s Ulysses, a classic to be certain, but a famously impenetrable one. Some Joycean classics that are a bit easier to dip into include Dubliners, a book of short stories about the titular city, and A Portrait of the Artist as a Young Man.

Dive into the absorbing books and plays of Brendan Behan with Borstal Boy, his semi-autobiographical book about growing up as a member of the IRA. Also good is his play Quare Fellow.

If you’re headed out into the Irish countryside, you might want to pick up a copy of W. B. Yeats’s Collected Poems, since the view you’re about to see is the same one that inspired him.

Of modern writers, among the best loved are Maeve Binchy (Dublin 4); J.P. Donleavy (whose book The Ginger Man, about a drunken Trinity College student, was banned by the Catholic Church); Roddy Doyle (whose book The Commitments, about aspiring Irish musicians, became a top-grossing film); and Jennifer Johnston, who addressed the tension between Protestants and Catholics in How Many Miles to Babylon? You can also try Edna O’Brien (The Country Girls) for bawdy laughs, Flann O’Brien (At-Swim-Two-Birds) for hilarious writing about writing, and Liam O’Flaherty, whose The Informer is a thriller about a veteran of the civil war.

Respected expat novelists include Irish journalist and novelist Colm Tóibín (The Heather Blazing and The Master) and Colum McCann (Let the Great World Spin).

NONFICTION Two excellent books by Tim Pat Coogan, The Irish Civil War (2001) and The Troubles: Ireland’s Ordeal 1966–1996 and the Search for Peace (1997), are essential reading for anyone wanting to understand the complexities of 21st-century Ireland. For a look at modern Ireland, try John Ardagh’s Ireland and the Irish (1997), or F. S. Lyons’s Ireland Since the Famine (2009). To understand more about the famine, try Cecil Woodham-Smith’s The Great Hunger (1992). It’s viewed as the definitive, dispassionate examination of what really happened.

Film

Although lots of movies have been made about Ireland, not very many good movies have been made about Ireland. Here are a few exceptions. Michael Collins (directed by Neil Jordan, 1996) is a fine biopic about the Irish rebel, filmed largely on location. Maeve (directed by John Davis and Pat Murphy, 1982) is widely viewed as one of Ireland’s first proper independent films. It addresses the lives of the young amid sectarian violence. Veronica Guerin (directed by Joel Schumacher, 2003) is a dark, fact-based film with Cate Blanchett about a troubled investigative reporter on the trail of a drug boss.

In a cheerier vein, Wild About Harry (2000) is a romantic comedy about a philandering TV host, while Intermission (2003) is a lively romance featuring Colin Farrell talking in his own accent. The Commitments (1990) may be the most famous Irish musical yet made, but Once (2007) is a touching, Oscar-winning portrait of two struggling young musicians busking on Dublin’s streets.

Music

Music is inescapable in Ireland, and if you hear a band play in a bar and you like them, we strongly advise you to buy a CD from them. Some local faves include Damien Rice (O), who did play in bars until he became a superstar a couple of years ago. The Irish folk singer Christy Moore (Live at the Point) is still widely viewed as one of the greatest ever. Barry McCormack has been winning accolades from critics for his We Drank Our Tears. David Kitt is one of Dublin’s top songwriters; check out his Big Romance. The Frames, led by singer/guitarist Glen Hansard, have been playing on the Dublin scene for years, and you can join their devoted followers by buying Cost. Finally, Adrian Crowley’s When You Are Here, You Are Family, is a warm and delightful folksy album worth owning. Obviously, traditional music is still alive and well in Ireland, particularly in close association with Irish step dancing. The folk culture is primarily found outside of Dublin, although some pubs in the city do still showcase traditional music. There’s also Cultúrlann na hÉireann, which offers much in the way of traditional Irish performances. Similarly, in Galway the Taibhdhearc Theatre offers a program of traditional music, dance, and plays. In County Kerry, Siamsa Ti offers a mixture of Irish music, dance, and mime. For a less formal atmosphere, check out local pubs in small towns, which almost always can be counted on to host Irish music and sometimes dancing, too.

EATING & DRINKING IN IRELAND

Restaurants

Restaurants in Ireland have become surprisingly expensive in recent years, and even with the economic crash it’s still rather difficult to find good places that do not charge an average of €25 for a main course. On the plus side, restaurants are varied and interesting here—settings range from old-world hotel dining rooms, country mansions, and castles to sky-lit terraces, shop-front bistros, riverside cottages, thatched-roof pubs, and converted houses. Lately, appreciation has grown for creative cooking here, with an emphasis on locally grown produce and meat.

Before you book a table, here are a few things you should know.

RESERVATIONS Except for self-service eateries, informal cafes, and some popular seafood spots, most restaurants encourage reservations; most expensive restaurants require them. In the most popular eateries, Friday and Saturday nights are often booked up a week or more in advance, so have a few options in mind if you’re booking at the last minute and want to try out the hot spots.

Tip: If you stop into or phone a restaurant and find that it is booked from 8 or 8:30pm onward, ask if you can dine early (at 6:30 or 7pm), with a promise to leave by 8pm. It works sometimes.

PRICES Meal prices at restaurants include taxes (13.5% VAT in the Republic of Ireland and a 17.5% VAT in Northern Ireland). Many restaurants include the tip as a service charge added automatically to the bill (it’s usually listed at the bottom, just before the bill’s total). It usually ranges from 10% to 13%. When no service charge is added, tip around 12% or so, depending on the quality of the service. But do check your bill, as some unscrupulous restaurants do not make it clear that you have already tipped, thus encouraging you to accidentally do so twice.

The price categories used in this book are based on the price of a complete dinner (or lunch, if dinner is not served) for one person, including tax and tip, but not wine or alcoholic beverages:

Very Expensive €50 and up

Expensive €35 to €50

Moderate €17 to €34

Inexpensive Under €17

DINING TIPS Don’t be surprised if you are not ushered to your table as soon as you arrive at some upscale restaurants. This is not a delaying tactic—many of the better dining rooms carry on the old custom of seating you in a lounge while you sip an aperitif and peruse the menu. Your waiter then comes to discuss the choices and to take your order. You are not called to the table until the first course is about to be served. You are not under an obligation to have a cocktail, of course. It’s perfectly fine to order a soft drink or just a glass of water.

Dining Bargains

Despite the economic bust, restaurant prices are still generally absurdly high, largely because of taxes, but partly for reasons of hubris. Nobody is more aware of this than the Irish. Here are some strategies they use (and you can too) to keep meal costs down.

If you want to try a top-rated restaurant but can’t afford dinner, have your main meal there in the middle of the day by trying the set-lunch menu. You’ll experience the same great cuisine at half the price of a nighttime meal. The latest economic troubles have seen restaurants competing for customers by offering more set-price meals, early-bird specials (sometimes through the whole evening, or every night early in the week), and other discount enticements. Keep an eye out for them.

Alternatively, try an inexpensive lunch in a cafe or a pub. Pub food is usually a lot better than its name suggests; the menu usually includes a mix of sandwiches and traditional Irish food, including stews and meat pies. In recent years, many pubs have converted or expanded into restaurants, serving excellent, unpretentious meals at (somewhat) reasonable prices. But beware: Some pubs have taken advantage of rising restaurant prices to raise their own prices—check the menu before you sit down at a table (most places post them by their doors).

Supermarkets and grocery stores in Ireland sell good premade sandwiches (these are much better than similar supermarket sandwiches in the U.S.) for a few euros. These can make a good, cheap lunch or dinner. Coffee shops also sell sandwiches for a few euros, and muffins for even less (for a quick, cheap breakfast).

Pubs

The pub continues to be a mainstay of Irish social life. There are pubs in every city, town, and hamlet. Most people have a “local”—a favorite pub near home—where they go for a drink and some conversation with neighbors, family, and friends. Pubs are not bars—they are more about socializing than drinking, and many people you see in the pub are just having a soft drink (lime cordial and soda water is a particular favorite, or orange juice and lemon soda). So feel free to go to the pub, even if you don’t drink alcohol. It’s a good way to meet locals.

PUB HOURS The Republic of Ireland’s drinking hours were extended a couple of years ago, a mere 2 centuries after they were first created. Gone are the days when all pubs closed at 11pm. Now pubs set their own hours. Most still close by 11:30pm, but some stay open until 2am, and most stay open throughout the day (laws previously required pubs to close from 2–4pm). After normal pub hours, nightclubs and discos keep going to the wee hours.

You’ll notice that when the dreaded “closing time” comes, nobody clears out of the pub. That’s because the term is a misnomer. The “closing time” is actually the time when the barmen must stop serving alcohol, so expect to hear a shout for “Last orders!” or, occasionally, the marvelous if antiquated “Time, gentlemen, please!” Anyone who wants to order his or her last drink does so at that point. The pubs don’t actually shut their doors for another 20 to 30 minutes. When the time comes to really close, the bartenders will shout “Time to leave!” lights will be turned up brightly, and people make their way to the doors.

In the North, the laws have also changed recently to allow pubs to stay open later, although most still close at 11pm on Monday to Thursday. On Friday and Saturday nights, many pubs stay open until midnight or 1am, and a few even later than that—particularly in large towns and cities.

WHEN TO GO

A visit to Ireland in the summer is very different from a trip in the winter. Apart from climatic considerations, there are the issues of cost, closures, and crowds. Generally speaking, in summer, airfares, car-rental rates, and hotel prices are highest and crowds at their most intense. But the days are long (6am sunrises and 10pm sunsets), the weather is warm, and every sightseeing attraction and B&B is open. In winter, you can get rock-bottom prices on airfare and hotels. But it will rain and the wind will blow, and many rural sights and a fair proportion of the rural B&Bs and restaurants will be closed.

All things considered, we think the best time to visit is in spring and fall, when weather falls in between bad and good, but you get lower-than-high-season prices and the crowds have yet to descend.

Weather

Rain is the one constant in Irish weather, although a bit of sunshine is usually just around the corner. The best of times and the worst of times are often only hours, or even minutes, apart. It can be chilly in Ireland at any time of year, so think layers when you pack.

Winters can be brutal, as the wind blows in off the Atlantic with numbing constancy, and gales are common. But deep snow is rare, and temperatures rarely drop much below freezing. In fact, Ireland is a fairly temperate place: January and February bring frosts but seldom snow, and July and August are very warm, but rarely hot. The Irish consider any temperature over 68°F (20°C) to be “roasting,” and below 34°F (1°C) as bone chilling. For a complete online guide to Irish weather, consult www.ireland.com/weather.

Holidays

The Republic observes the following national holidays: New Year’s Day (Jan 1); St. Patrick’s Day (Mar 17); Easter Monday (variable); May Day (May 1); first Mondays in June and August (summer bank holidays); last Monday in October (autumn bank holiday); Christmas (Dec 25); and St. Stephen’s Day (Dec 26). Good Friday (the Fri before Easter) is mostly observed, but not statutory.

In the North, the schedule of holidays is the same as in the Republic, with some exceptions: The North’s summer bank holidays fall on the last Monday of May and August; the Battle of the Boyne is celebrated on Orangeman’s Day (July 12); and Boxing Day (Dec 26) follows Christmas.

In both Ireland and Northern Ireland, holidays that fall on weekends are celebrated the following Monday.

Ireland Calendar of Events 2012 and 2013

This sampling of events is drawn from 2011 schedules. Many events had not set their 2012 dates at the time this book was being written. The most up-to-date listings of events can be found at www.discoverireland.ie and www.entertainment.ie for Ireland, and www.eventguide.ie and www.visitdublin.com for Dublin.

For an exhaustive list of events beyond those listed here, check http://events.frommers.com, where you’ll find a searchable, up-to-the-minute roster of what’s happening in cities all over the world.

JANUARY

Funderland. Royal Dublin Society, Ballsbridge, Dublin 4. An annual indoor fun fair, complete with white-knuckle rides, carnival stalls, and family entertainment ( 01/283-8188; www.funfair.ie). December/January. (Also smaller events in Cork, Limerick, and Belfast later in the year; check the website for details.)

Yeats Winter School. Sligo Park Hotel, Sligo Town. This event offers a weekend of relaxation, lectures, and a tour of Yeats Country ( 071/914-2693; www.yeats-sligo.com). Late January.

FEBRUARY

Dublin International Film Festival. Irish Film Centre, Temple Bar, Dublin 2, and various cinemas in Dublin. More than 100 films are featured, with screenings of the best in Irish and world cinema, plus seminars and lectures on filmmaking, lately sponsored by Jameson whiskey ( 01/662-4620; www.jdiff.com). Late February.

MARCH

St. Patrick’s Dublin Festival. Held around St. Patrick’s Day itself, this massive 4-day festival is open, free, and accessible to everyone. Street theater, carnival acts, sports, music, fireworks, and other festivities culminate in Ireland’s grandest parade, with marching bands, drill teams, floats, and delegations from around the world ( 01/676-3205; www.stpatricksday.ie). On and around March 17.

St. Patrick’s Day Parades. Held all over Ireland and Northern Ireland, celebrating Ireland’s patron saint. March 17.

APRIL

Pan Celtic Festival. County Donegal. For 5 days, the wider Celtic family (including Cornwall, Isle of Man, Scotland, Wales, and Brittany) unites for culture, song, dance, sports, and parades with marching bands and pipers. There are also lots of fringe events, from nature walks to poetry readings (www.panceltic.ie). March/April.

Samhlaíocht Chiarrai/Kerry Arts Festival. Tralee, County Kerry. A spring festival of music, food, literature, crafts, film, performance, and visual art. Running at the same time is the Bumblebee Festival, a largely hands-on program of activities for kids ( 066/712-9934;www.samhlaiocht.com). Late April.

World Irish Dancing Championships. Gleneagle Hotel, Killarney. The premier international competition in Irish dancing features more than 4,000 contenders from as far away as New Zealand ( 01/814-6298; www.clrg.ie). April.

MAY

Belfast City Marathon. An epic 42km (26-mile) race of 6,000 international runners through the city. It starts and finishes at Maysfield Leisure Centre ( 028/9060-5944; www.belfastcitymarathon.com). Early May.

May Day Races. Down Royal Racecourse, Maze, Lisburn, County Antrim. One of the major events on the horse-racing calendar ( 028/9262-1256; www.downroyal.com). Early May.

Wicklow Arts Festival. Hot on the heels of the Gardens Festival, this is Wicklow’s other big spring event, held over 5 days in Wicklow Town. There are dozens of music, theater, art, and literary events, many of which are free wicklowartsfestivalie. Early May.

JUNE

Murphy’s Cat Laughs Comedy Festival. Various venues in Kilkenny Town. Past performers at this international festival of stand-up comedy include American comics Bill Murray, George Wendt, and Emo Phillips, and Ireland’s Dara O’Briain ( 056/776-3837; www.thecatlaughs.com). Early June.

Music Festival in Great Irish Houses. Various venues throughout counties Dublin, Wicklow, and Kildare. This 10-day festival of classical music performed by leading Irish and world-renowned international artists is intimately set in the receiving rooms of stately buildings and mansions ( 01/664-2822; www.musicgreatirishhouses.com). Early June.

Taste of Ireland. Iveagh Gardens, Dublin. Visitors to this 4-day celebration of all things food-related can sample dishes prepared by some of the country’s top chefs. Best to book in advance as the event is usually a sellout—and consider wearing elastic-waistband pants ( 01/210-9290; www.tastefestivals.ie). Mid-June.

Bloomsday Festival. Various Dublin venues. This unique day of festivity celebrates Leopold Bloom, the central character of James Joyce’s Ulysses. Every aspect of the city, including the menus at restaurants and pubs, duplicates the aromas, sights, sounds, and tastes of Joyce’s fictitious Dublin on June 16, 1904, the day when all of the action in Ulysses takes place. Ceremonies are held at the James Joyce Tower and Museum; guided walks visit Joycean sights. Contact the James Joyce Centre, 35 N. Great George’s St., Dublin 1 ( 01/878-8547; www.jamesjoyce.ie). June 16.

Cork Midsummer Arts Festival. Emmet Place, Cork City. The program includes musical performances and traditional Irish céilí bands, and always has a strong literary content. Bonfire nights are particularly popular ( 021/421-5131; www.corkfestival.com). Mid- to late June.

Irish Derby. The Curragh, County Kildare. This is Ireland’s version of the Kentucky Derby or Royal Ascot and is a fashionable gathering (hint: jackets for men, posh hats for women) of racing fans from all over the world. It’s one of the richest and most definitive middle-distance horse races in Europe. Booking recommended ( 045/441205; www.curragh.ie). Late June.

Killarney SummerFest. Fitzgerald Stadium, Killarney, County Kerry. This (mainly rock) music festival gets bigger every year and is one of the highlights of the Irish summer of music. Past performers have included Bryan Adams and Sheryl Crow. Fringe events include street entertainment and art workshops. ( 064/71560; www.killarneysummerfest.com). Late July/early August.

County Wicklow Gardens Festival. In the county known as the “garden of Ireland,” stately heritage properties and gardens open their gates to visitors on selected dates. Contact Wicklow County Tourism ( 0404/20070; www.visitwicklow.ie). Entire summer, kicks off in June.

JULY

Oxegen. Punchestown Racecourse, County Kildare. This (mainly rock) music festival is now one of Europe’s premier summer music fests, with nearly 100 acts playing on five stages during 1 weekend. Previous headliners have included Coldplay and Eminem. For tickets, contact www.oxegen.ie or www.oxegen.ie. Early July.

The Temple Bar Summer Sensational. Dublin 2. This 4-day festival features street theater, film, photography, and music, all set amid the backdrop of Dublin’s most cultured district ( 01/677-2255; www.templebar.ie). Mid-July.

Battle of the Boyne Commemoration. Belfast and other cities. This annual event, often called Orangeman’s Day, recalls the historic battle between two 17th-century kings. It’s a national day of parades by Protestants all over Northern Ireland; most have a celebratory atmosphere, although some parades still turn nasty in West Belfast and Derry, so proceed with caution. Contact the House of Orange, 65 Dublin Rd., Belfast BT2 7HE ( 028/9032-2801). July 12.

Galway Arts Festival & Races. Galway City and Racecourse. This 2-week fest is a shining star on the Irish arts scene, featuring international theater, concerts, literary evenings, street shows, arts, parades, music, and more. The famous Galway Races follow, with 5 more days of racing and merriment, music, and song ( 091/509700; www.galwayartsfestival.ie). Mid- to late July.

Lughnasa Fair. Carrickfergus Castle, County Antrim. A spectacular revival with a 12th-century Norman castle and its grounds, this event features people in period costumes, medieval games, traditional food, entertainment, and crafts ( 028/9335-1273). Late July/early August.

AUGUST

Fáilte Ireland Horse Show. RDS Showgrounds, Ballsbridge, Dublin 4. This is the most important equestrian and social event on the Irish national calendar. Aside from the daily dressage and jumping competitions, highlights include a fashionable ladies’ day, nightly formal hunt balls, and the awarding of the Aga Khan Trophy and the Nation’s Cup ( 01/668-0866; www.dublinhorseshow.ie or www.rds.ie). Early August.

Kilkenny Arts Festival. Kilkenny Town. This weeklong event has it all, from classical and traditional music to plays, one-person shows, readings, films, poetry, and art exhibitions ( 056/775-2175; www.kilkennyarts.ie). August.

Puck Fair. Killorglin, County Kerry. Each year the residents of this tiny Ring of Kerry town capture a wild goat and enthrone it as “king” over 3 days of merrymaking that include open-air concerts, horse fairs, parades, and fireworks. This is one of Ireland’s oldest festivals (/fax 066/976-2366; www.puckfair.ie). August 10 to August 12.

Rose of Tralee International Festival. Tralee, County Kerry. A gala atmosphere prevails at this 5-day event, with a full program of concerts, street entertainment, horse races, and a beauty-and-talent pageant leading up to the televised selection of the “Rose of Tralee” ( 066/712-1322; www.roseoftralee.ie). Late August.

National Heritage Week. More than 400 events are held throughout the country—walks, lectures, exhibitions, music recitals, and more ( 056/777-0777; www.heritageweek.ie). Late August.

Fleadh Cheoil na hÉireann. Tullamore, County Offaly. This has been Ireland’s premier summer festival of traditional music since 1951, with competitions held to select the all-Ireland champions in all categories of instruments and singing. Note that the website address is year-specific; we presume it will be different for 2012 and 2013 ( 087/936-5059; www.fleadh2011.ie). Late August/early September.

SEPTEMBER

Lisdoonvarna Matchmaking Festival. Lisdoonvarna, County Clare. Still the biggest and best singles’ event after all these years, this traditional “bachelor” festival carries on in the lovely spa town of Lisdoonvarna, with lots of wonderful music and dance ( 065/707-4005; www.matchmakerireland.com). September/October.

All-Ireland Hurling & Gaelic Football Finals. Croke Park, Dublin 3. The finals of Ireland’s most beloved sports, hurling and Gaelic football, are Ireland’s equivalent of the Super Bowl. If you can’t be at Croke Park, experience this in the full bonhomie of a pub. You can find information at www.gaa.ie, or obtain tickets through Ticketmaster ( 01/836-3222; www.ticketmaster.ie). September.

Irish Antique Dealers’ Fair. RDS Showgrounds, Ballsbridge, Dublin 4. Ireland’s premier annual antiques fair, with hundreds of dealers from all over the island ( 01/679-4147; www.iada.ie). Late September/early October.

Galway International Oyster Festival. Galway and environs. Find out why London’s Sunday Times put it on its “Top 12 World’s Best Event List.” A haven for oyster aficionados from across the globe, its highlights include the World Oyster Opening Championship, a grand opening parade, a yacht race, an art exhibition, a gala banquet, traditional music, and, of course, lots of oyster eating ( 091/587992; www.galwayoysterfest.com). Late September.

Dublin Theatre Festival. Theaters throughout Dublin. Showcases for new plays by every major Irish company (including the Abbey and the Gate), plus a range of productions from abroad ( 01/677-8439; www.dublintheatrefestival.com). Late September/mid-October.

OCTOBER

Kinsale International Gourmet Festival. Kinsale, County Cork. The foodie capital of Ireland hosts this well-respected annual fest, featuring special menus in all the restaurants and plenty of star chefs in town from abroad. ( 021/477-3571; www.kinsalerestaurants.com). October.

Baboró International Arts Festival for Children. Galway. A fun-filled, educational festival geared to kids 3 to 12 years of age, with theater, music, dance, museum exhibitions, and literary events ( 091/562667; www.baboro.ie). Late October.

Guinness Cork Jazz Festival. Cork City. Ireland’s second city stages a first-rate festival of jazz, with an international lineup of live acts playing in hotels, concert halls, and pubs ( 021/427-8979; www.guinnessjazzfestival.com). Late October.

Kinsale Fringe Jazz Festival. Meanwhile, not to be outdone, nearby Kinsale plays host to its own concurrent fringe jazz festival ( 021/477-2234; www.kinsale.ie). Late October.

Dublin City Marathon. On the last Monday in October, more than 5,000 runners from both sides of the Atlantic and the Irish Sea participate in this popular run through the streets of the capital ( 01/623-2250; www.dublinmarathon.ie). Late October.

Wexford Festival Opera. Theatre Royal, Wexford City. This is not your average stuffy opera festival. Famous as much for the jubilant, informal atmosphere as for the acclaimed productions of lesser known 18th- and 19th-century operatic masterpieces, the festival also offers classical music concerts, recitals, and more. ( 053/912-2144; www.wexfordopera.com). Late October/early November.

Belfast Festival at Queen’s. Queen’s University, Belfast. Ireland’s largest arts festival attracts enormous crowds each year for its stellar program of drama, opera, music, and film ( 028/9097-1197; www.belfastfestival.com). There’s also a concurrent fringe festival in the Cathedral Quarter ( 028/9027-0466). October/November.

NOVEMBER

Murphy’s Cork International Film Festival. Cinemas throughout Cork. Ireland’s oldest film festival offers a plethora of international features, documentaries, short films, and special programs ( 021/427-1711; www.corkfilmfest.org). Mid-November.

DECEMBER

Killarney Christmas Market. Fair Hill, Killarney, County Kerry. Killarney gets very enthusiastic indeed about the festive season, so it’s unsurprising that it should host some of the region's best Christmas markets, devoted mainly to quality local crafts and food ( 064/663662; www.christmasinkillarney.com). Various dates in December.

12 Days of Christmas Market. IFSC, Dublin. Now part of the traditional run-up to Christmas in Dublin, this huge event all but takes over Docklands. Mostly it’s an opportunity to shop (there are over 100 different traders), but there’s also a traditional-style fairground, and festive food and drink aplenty ( 01/818-3300; www.docklands.ie). Mid-December.

Limerick Christmas Racing Festival. Limerick Racecourse, Greenpark, Limerick. Four days of holiday horse racing ( 061/320000; www.limerickraces.ie). Late December.

RESPONSIBLE TRAVEL

Responsible tourism is conscientious travel. It means being careful with the environments you explore, and respecting the communities you visit. Two overlapping components of responsible travel are eco-tourism and ethical tourism. The International Ecotourism Society (TIES) defines eco-tourism as responsible travel to natural areas that conserves the environment and improves the well-being of local people. TIES suggests that eco-tourists follow these principles:

• Minimize environmental impact.

• Build environmental and cultural awareness and respect.

• Provide positive experiences for both visitors and hosts.

• Provide direct financial benefits for conservation and for local people.

• Raise sensitivity to host countries’ political, environmental, and social climates.

• Support international human rights and labor agreements.

You can find some eco-friendly travel tips and statistics, as well as touring companies and associations—listed by destination under “Travel Choice”—at the TIES website, www.ecotourism.org.

Responsible Travel (www.responsibletravel.com) is a great source of sustainable travel ideas; the site is run by a spokesperson for ethical tourism in the travel industry. Sustainable Travel International sustainabletravelinternational.org promotes ethical tourism practices, and manages an extensive directory of sustainable properties and tour operators around the world.

In the U.K., Tourism Concern (www.tourismconcern.org.uk) works to reduce social and environmental problems connected to tourism.

Volunteer travel has become increasingly popular among those who want to venture beyond the standard group-tour experience to learn languages, interact with locals, and make a positive difference while on vacation. Volunteer travel usually doesn’t require special skills—just a willingness to work hard—and programs vary in length from a few days to a number of weeks. Some programs provide free housing and food, but many require volunteers to pay for travel expenses, which can add up quickly.

For general info on volunteer travel, visit www.volunteerabroad.org and www.idealist.org.

TOURS

History & Architecture Tours

The Dublin bus company Dublin Bus ( 01/873-4222; www.dublinbus.ie) operates several tours focusing on Irish history and architecture, all of which depart from the Dublin Bus office at 59 Upper O’Connell St., Dublin 1. You can buy your ticket from the bus driver or book in advance at the Dublin Bus office or at the Dublin Tourism ticket desk on Suffolk Street.

Gray Line ( 01/605-7705; www.irishcitytours.com) offers a range of full-day and multiple-day excursions from Dublin to the historic monastic site at Glendalough, as well as to the prehistoric remains at Newgrange, and the architecturally significant Powerscourt.

The national bus company, Bus Éireann ( 091/562000; www.buseireann.ie), provides a good range of tours throughout Ireland. You can tour Dublin and around to Glendalough or Newgrange by bus, or travel by boat to Waterford, and it also offers good tours of Galway, taking in the Maam Cross, Recess, Roundstone, and Clifden.

For a more historical, intellectual approach to Ireland’s famous history, try Mary Gibbons Tours ( 086/355-1355; www.newgrangetours.com), which leads absorbing, in-depth tours of Newgrange, Powerscourt, and Glendalough.

Adventure Trips

For touring the Wicklow Mountains and Glendalough, try Discover Dublin ( 01/280-1899; www.discoverdublin.ie), which offers a tour it has dubbed the “Wild Wicklow Tour.” Wild might be too strong a word, but it is certainly lively and enjoyable, and includes visits to the mountainous area around Avoca and the scenic Sally Gap.

Political Tours

The best tours in Belfast are the extraordinary Black Taxi Tours ★ ( 0800/052-3914 or 0289/064-2264; www.belfasttours.com), which take you through the areas where the Troubles had the most impact, and explain it all in intelligent, compassionate, unbiased, firsthand terms.

PLANNING YOUR TRIP TO IRELAND

GETTING THERE

By Plane

About half of all visitors from North America arrive in Ireland on direct transatlantic flights to Dublin Airport (DUB; 01/814-1111; www.dublinairport.com), Shannon Airport (SNN; 061/471369; www.shannonairport.com), or Belfast International Airport (BFS; 028/9448-4848; www.belfastairport.com). The other half fly first into Britain or Europe, then backtrack into Ireland by air or sea.

In the Republic, there are seven smaller regional airports, all of which offer service to Dublin and several of which receive some (very limited) European traffic. They are Cork, Donegal, Galway, Kerry, Knock, Sligo, and Waterford. In Northern Ireland, the secondary airports are Belfast City Airport and Derry City Airport. Airline service to these smaller airports changes frequently, so be sure to consult your preferred airline or travel agent as soon as you begin to sketch your itinerary.

By Ferry

If you’re traveling to Ireland from Britain or the Continent, traveling by ferry is a good alternative to flying. Several car and passenger ferries offer reasonably comfortable furnishings, cabin berths (for longer crossings), restaurants, duty-free shopping, and lounges.

Prices fluctuate seasonally and depend on your route, your time of travel, and whether you are on foot or in a car. It’s best to check with your travel agent for up-to-date details, but just to give you an idea, the lowest one-way adult fare in high season on the cruise ferry from Holyhead to Dublin starts at around €30. A car usually costs €75 to €150.

Irish Ferries (www.irishferries.ie) operates from Holyhead, Wales, to Dublin, and from Pembroke, Wales, to Rosslare, County Wexford. For reservations, call Scots-American Travel ( 800/247-7268 in the U.S.; www.scotsamerican.com) or Irish Ferries ( 0870/517-1717 in the U.K., or 0818/300-400 in the Republic of Ireland; 353/818-300-400 in Northern Ireland; www.irishferries.com). Stena Line ( 01/204-7777; www.stenaline.com) sails from Holyhead to Dun Laoghaire, 13km (8 miles) south of Dublin; from Fishguard, Wales, to Rosslare; and from Stranraer, Scotland, to Belfast, Northern Ireland. P&O Irish Sea Ferries ( 352/3420-808-294 in the U.S., 0871/664-2121 in Britain, or 01/407-3434 in Ireland; www.poferries.com) operates from Liverpool to Dublin and from Cairnryan, Scotland, to Larne, County Antrim, Northern Ireland.

GETTING AROUND

By Car

Although Ireland has a reasonably extensive network of public transportation, there are many advantages to having your own car there. Trains tend not to go to charming small towns and villages, and great houses and castles tend to be miles from any major town. Buses are slow and service to places off the beaten track can be infrequent.

In the summer, weekly rental rates on a manual-transmission compact vehicle begin at around €160 and ascend steeply. Rates are much cheaper out of season.

Unless your stay in Ireland extends beyond 6 months, your own valid driver’s license (provided you’ve had it for at least 6 months) is all you need to drive in Ireland. Rules and restrictions for car rental vary slightly and correspond roughly to those in other European nations and the U.S., with two important distinctions. Most rental-car agencies in the Republic won’t rent to you (1) if you’re 24 and under or 75 and over (there’s no upper age limit in the North) or (2) if your license has been valid for less than a year.

DRIVING LAWS, TIPS & WARNINGS Highway safety has become a critical issue in Ireland during the past several years. The number of highway fatalities is high for such a small nation—Ireland is ranked as the second-most dangerous country in Europe in which to drive (second only to Greece). In an effort to rein in the Irish drivers, the Republic now uses a penalty “points” system similar to that in the U.K. and the U.S. While visitors won’t have points added to their licenses, they may still be penalized with fines if they speed or commit driving infractions.

All distances and speed limits on road signs in the Republic of Ireland are in kilometers, while in Northern Ireland they are in miles. Take care if you’re driving around the borderlands—the border is unmarked, so you can cross over from one side to the other without knowing it. It’s easy to get confused and speed accidentally.

If you’re not used to driving in rural areas on the left-hand side of the road, take precautions. Try to avoid driving after dark; stay off the road when driving conditions are compromised by rain, fog, or heavy traffic. Getting used to left-side driving, left-handed stick shift, narrow roads, and a new landscape are enough for the driver to manage, so it’s helpful if you can have somebody along to navigate, or rent a GPS navigation device with your car—most major rental firms offer them.

Roundabouts (what Americans call traffic circles or rotaries) are found on most major roads and take a little getting used to. Remember always to yield to traffic coming from the right as you approach a roundabout and follow the traffic to the left, signaling before you exit the circle.

One signal that could be misleading to U.S. drivers is a flashing amber light at a pedestrian traffic light. This almost always follows a red light and it means yield to pedestrians, but proceed when the crossing is clear.

There are relatively few types of roads in the Republic. National (N) roads link major cities on the island. Though these are the equivalent of U.S. highways, they are rarely more than two lanes in each direction, and are sometimes as small as one U.S.-size lane. Most pass directly through towns, making cross-country trips longer than you’d expect. Regional (R) roads have one lane of traffic traveling in each direction, and generally link smaller cities and towns. Last are the rural or unclassified roads, often the most scenic back roads. These can be poorly signposted, very narrow, and a bit rough, but travel through beautiful countryside.

In the North, there are two Major Motorways (M), equivalent to interstates, as well as a network of lesser A- and B-level roads. Speed limits are posted.

Both the North and the Republic have severe laws against drunk driving, and the legal blood alcohol limit is very low. Even one pint of beer can put you over the limit. The general rule is: Do not drink and drive.

ROAD RULES IN A nutshell

1. Drive on the left side of the road.

2. Road signs are in kilometers, except in Northern Ireland, where they are in miles.

3. On motorways, the left lane is the traveling lane. The right lane is for passing.

4. Everyone must wear a seat belt by law. Children must be in age-appropriate child seats.

5. Children 11 and under are not allowed to sit in the front seat.

6. When entering a roundabout (traffic circle), give way to traffic coming from the right.

7. The speed limits are 50kmph (31 mph) in urban areas; 80kmph (50 mph) on regional and local roads, sometimes referred to as non-national roads; 100kmph (62 mph) on national roads, including divided highways (called dual carriageways); and 120kmph (75 mph) on freeways (called motorways).

RENTALS Try to make car-rental arrangements well in advance of your departure. Ireland is a small country, and in high season it can completely run out of rental cars—but before it does, it runs out of affordable rental cars. Discounts are common in the off season, of course, but it’s also possible to negotiate a decent deal for July and August if you reserve in advance.

Major international car-rental firms are represented at airports and cities throughout Ireland and Northern Ireland. They include Alamo-Treaty ( 871/384-1086; www.goalamo.com), Auto-Europe ( 800/358-1229; www.autoeurope.com), Avis ( 21/428-1111 in Ireland; 800/230-4898 in the U.S.; www.avis.ie), Budget ( 90/662-7711; 800/527-0700 in the U.S.; www.budget.ie), Hertz ( 01/870-5777; 800/654-3001 in the U.S.; www.hertz.ie), Murrays Europcar ( 61/206086; 800/800-6000 in the U.S.; www.europcar.ie), National ( 800/227-7368 in the U.S.; www.nationalcar.com), Payless ( 800/729-5377 in the U.S.; www.paylesscar.com), and Dan Dooley/Kenning Rent-a-Car ( 62/53103; 800/331-9301 in the U.S.; www.dan-dooley.ie).

When comparing prices, always ask if the quoted rate includes the 13.5% government tax (VAT), the €15 airport pickup fee (assuming you pick up your car right upon arrival), CDW (collision damage waiver), and theft insurance. If you have your own auto insurance, you may be covered; check your existing policy before you pay for additional coverage you may not need. If you rent a car in the Republic, it is best to return it to the Republic, and if you rent it in the North, return it in the North. (Most firms charge extra for cross-border drop-offs.)

If you rent with a credit card that claims to provide free protection, be sure to call your card’s customer service line to make certain there are no restrictions on that coverage in Ireland. Visa does not offer insurance protection for car rentals in Ireland. And MasterCard and American Express—even gold cards—have limited their protection on Irish rentals. Be certain that your information is current. Always confirm the details of your coverage when you charge your car rental to your credit card. If you are renting a car in the Republic and taking it into the North (or vice versa), be sure to ask the car-rental firm if the CDW and theft insurance covers cross-border transport. If not, you may be required to buy extra insurance.

PARKING You’re better off without a car in Dublin. Traffic, a shortage of parking places, and one-way streets conspire to make you regret having wheels. In Dublin, virtually all streets are pay to park. Look for signs directing you to ticket machines; there should be one each block or so. Some larger towns also have multistory car parks; in central Dublin they average about €2 per hour and €23 for 24 hours.

By contrast, parking in most villages and small towns is easy and usually free. Look out for public parking lots—they’re often free and are clearly marked at the edge of town centers.

In Belfast and other large cities in the North, some special security measures are always in place. Control zone signs indicate that no unattended vehicle can be left there at any time. That means if you are a single traveler, you cannot leave your car; if you are a twosome, one person must remain in the car while it’s parked. Also, unlocked cars anywhere in the North are subject to a fine, for security reasons.

By Train

Iarnród Éireann (Irish Rail; 1850/366222 or 01/836-6222; www.irishrail.ie) operates the train services in Ireland. Train travel is generally the fastest way to get around the country. Most lines radiate from Dublin to other principal cities and towns. From Dublin, the journey time to Cork is 3 hours; to Belfast, 2 hours; to Galway, 3 hours; to Limerick, 21⁄4 hours; to Killarney, 4 hours; to Sligo, 31⁄4 hours; and to Waterford, 23⁄4 hours.

Iarnród Éireann also offers an enticing array of weekend-to-weeklong holiday packages or RailBreaks to practically every corner of Ireland, north as well as south.

Ticket Talk

When buying travel tickets—air, ferry, or train—ask for either a “single” (one-way) or a “return” (round-trip).

In addition to the Irish Rail service between Dublin and Belfast, Translink ( 028/9066-6630; www.nirailways.co.uk) operates routes from Belfast that include Coleraine and Derry, in addition to virtually all 21 localities in Northern Ireland. The same organization runs the Belfast city service, called Citybus.

By Bus

Bus Éireann ( 01/836-6111; www.buseireann.ie) operates an extensive system of express bus service, as well as local service, to nearly every town in Ireland. Express routes include Dublin to Donegal (41⁄4 hr.), Killarney to Limerick (21⁄2 hr.), Limerick to Galway (2 hr.), and Limerick to Cork (2 hr.). The Bus Éireann website provides timetables and fares for bus service throughout Ireland. Similarly, Translink provides detailed information on services within Northern Ireland ( 028/9066-6630; www.nirailways.co.uk/atulsterbus.asp). Bus travel in both countries is affordable, reliable, and comfortable, but slow.

By Plane

Because Ireland is such a small country, it’s unlikely you’ll be flying from place to place within it. If you do need to get somewhere very quickly, the main domestic carrier is Aer Arann ( 818/210-210 in Ireland, 011/353-81821-0210 in the U.S., or 0800/587-23-24 in the U.K.; www.aerarann.com). It operates flights to airports in Dublin, Belfast, Cork, Derry, Donegal, Galway, Kerry, and Knock. Aer Lingus ( 818/365-000 in Ireland, 800/474-7424 in the U.S., or 0871/1718-5000 in the U.K.; www.aerlingus.com) also operates some domestic flights.

MONEY-SAVING RAIL & BUS passes

For extensive travel by public transport, you can save money by purchasing a rail/bus pass or a rail-only pass. The options include the following:

• Eurailpass: Of the dozens of different Eurailpasses available, some are valid for unlimited rail travel in 17 European countries—but none include Britain or Northern Ireland. Other passes let you save money by selecting fewer countries. In the Irish Republic, the Eurailpass is good for travel on trains, Expressway coaches, and the Irish Continental Lines ferries between France and Ireland. Passes that let you travel throughout continental Europe and the Republic of Ireland, start at around €400 ($570) for 2 weeks of travel. The pass must be purchased 21 days before departure for Europe by a non–European Union resident. For further details or for purchase, call Rail Pass Express ( 800/722-7151; www.eurail.com). It’s also available from STA Travel ( 800/781-4040; www.sta.com) and other travel agents.

• BritRail Pass + Ireland: Includes all rail travel throughout the United Kingdom and Ireland, including a round-trip ferry crossing on Stena Line. A pass is good for any 5 days of unlimited travel within a 30-day period. But they don’t come cheap. Passes start at $450 and go up from there. They must be purchased before departure for Ireland or the United Kingdom from BritRail ( 866/BRITRAIL [274-8724]; www.britrail.com).

TIPS ON ACCOMMODATIONS

In this guide, we use our own system of zero to three stars for rating places to stay, based on quality of amenities, atmosphere, and the most subjective, overall value for money. Cost is only a factor inasmuch as it affects value. For example, an expensive hotel may rate only one star, while a moderately priced guesthouse rates two stars if it delivers an exceptional experience for the money. See the “Where to Stay” sections throughout this book for recommendations.

For even more information about staying in Ireland, Be Our Guest is a comprehensive guide to the hotels, country houses, castles, and inns of Ireland, published by the Irish Hotel Federation. It is available from the Irish Tourist Board. It’s also online at www.irelandhotels.com, which is a handy, searchable site, with options to sort hotels by feature (TV in all rooms, elevators, babysitting, and so on).

Those looking for something exclusive should try Ireland’s Blue Book (irelands-blue-bookie), which lists a collection of upscale manor house hotels and castles.

Bed & Breakfasts

You receive a personal touch when you stay in someone’s home, and more often than not, this is a real bonus. For anyone on a budget who is touring the country and spending only a night or two in each location, B&Bs are often hard to beat.

While most B&Bs are regulated and inspected by Ireland’s Tourism Quality Services (look for the shamrock seal of approval), many operate outside the regulation system. Those without governmental supervision or approval are not necessarily worse than those stamped with the green shamrock. Approval involves an annual fee and some restrictions that some B&B owners choose not to accept.

In the high season it’s a good idea to make your reservation weeks in advance. However, you can often find a room at a B&B when you arrive out of season. In a moderately priced B&B, the average cost for a room with private bathroom is roughly €45 per person per night. Obviously, some B&Bs charge less than this, and some charge more. While each year more and more B&Bs accept credit cards, but many still do not—ask in advance.

In the North, the Northern Ireland Tourist Board inspects each of its recommended B&Bs annually. Its Information Guide to Bed & Breakfast is available free from the NITB. The NITB also sells a useful comprehensive annual listing titled Where to Stay in Northern Ireland.

Hidden Ireland

Hidden Ireland is essentially a collection of particularly elegant and unique B&Bs. These private houses offer you the opportunity to experience life in a castle or in a historic manor house, including some of Ireland’s oldest and grandest buildings. Expect to pay anywhere from €150 to €345 a night for a double room in one of these places. To explore this option, contact the Hidden Ireland, PO Box 31, Westport, County Mayo ( 01/662-7166, or 800/688-0299 in the U.S.; www.hidden-ireland.com).

Farmhouse B&Bs

Many of Ireland’s small, family-run farms offer an inexpensive alternative to hotels and guesthouses, especially for families with small children. The Irish Farm Holidays Association ( 071/982-2222; www.irishfarmholidays.com) produces an annual guide to farmhouse accommodations, and we’ve included a number in this guide.

Self-Catering

If you want to stay awhile and establish a base, you might consider renting an apartment, town house, or cottage. Self-catering is a huge business in Ireland, and the range on offer is impressive. The minimum rental period is usually 1 week, although shorter periods are negotiable in the off season. Families and small groups often find self-catering works out to be significantly less expensive than staying in hotels. However, in the high season, in both the Republic and the North, a cottage sleeping seven could cost anywhere from around €350 to more than €1,000 per week. Both Tourism Ireland and the Northern Ireland Tourist Board prepare helpful annual guides to self-catering cottages.

Among the self-catering companies worth checking out is Trident Holiday Homes, 15 Irishtown Rd., Irishtown, Dublin 4 ( 01/201-8440; www.tridentholidayhomes.ie). For alluring seaside properties in west County Cork, try Cashelfean Holiday Houses, Durrus, County Cork ( 027/62000; www.cashelfean.com). In the west of Ireland a selection of traditional Irish cottages, fully equipped to meet modern expectations, is offered by Rent an Irish Cottage PLC, 85 O’Connell St., Limerick, County Limerick ( 061/411109; www.rentacottage.ie). Finally, for self-catering in the stunning countryside of Northern Ireland and Donegal, try Cottages in Ireland ( 028/9036-0500; www.cottagesinireland.com).

Youth Hostels

Some Irish hostels are broadening their scope and redesigning to attract travelers of all ages, as well as families. Many have private rooms and, although they cost a fraction of even a modest bed-and-breakfast, quite a few are attractive and in extraordinarily beautiful locations. We’ve included the best of these in this guide.

AnÓige, the Irish Youth Hostel Association, 61 Mountjoy St., Dublin 7 ( 01/830-4555; www.anoige.ie), runs dozens of exquisitely located hostels in Ireland, many of them in buildings of real character.

In the North, YHANI (Youth Hostels Association of Northern Ireland), 22–32 Donegall Rd., Belfast BT12 5JN ( 028/9032-4733; www.hini.org.uk), runs similar hostels in often extraordinary locations.

The Bottom Line on Beds

RATES In recent years, as the Irish economy has crumbled, hotel prices have become more unstable. Generally there’s been a downward trend in prices across the Republic and Northern Ireland. However, in the summer, prices can spike up and fall within the course of a week. We recommend booking well ahead to get the best prices. And please note that, especially in cities, if you book a month or two in advance, you can often get a better rate at a four-star hotel than at a two-star guesthouse. The most expensive hotels have been offering in-advance discounts of up to 70%. So before you book that cheap hotel with no services, just have a peek at your dream hotel’s prices and see if it’s not as cheap if not cheaper for at least some of your time in the country.

The price categories used throughout this guide indicate the cost of a double room for two per night, including tax but not service charges:

Very Expensive €251 and up

Expensive €176 to €250

Moderate €100 to €175

Inexpensive Under €100

Note: Many hotels span more than one of these categories, and in those cases, we’ve done our best to put them into the price category you’re most likely to encounter on your visit.

Some hotels and B&Bs list their prices per person, but we find that confusing so in this guide we’ve used the price a double room would cost for two people spending 1 night. If you’re traveling on your own, expect to play slightly more than half the price of a double.

Children staying in their parent’s room are usually charged at 20% to 50% of the adult rate.

TERMINOLOGY The Irish use the phrase “en suite” to indicate a room with private bathroom. A “double” has a double bed, and a “twin” has two single beds. An “orthopedic” bed has an extra-firm mattress. Queen- and king-size beds are not common except in large, deluxe hotels.

RESERVATIONS Foreign visitors to Ireland should always have at least their first night’s room booked, as they will be required to give an address at Immigration when they arrive at the airport.

If you arrive in Ireland without a room reservation for some nights of your stay, and you’re not sure where to look, try the local tourist office, which can help with its computerized reservation service known as Gulliver. In Ireland or Northern Ireland, you can also call the Gulliver line directly ( 00800/668-668-66). This is a nationwide and cross-border “free-phone” facility for credit card bookings, operated 8am to 11pm from Monday to Friday, and 8am to 10pm weekends. Gulliver is also accessible from the United States ( 011-800/668-668-66) and on the Web at www.gulliver.ie.

QUALITY & VALUE Despite the various systems of approval, regulation, and ratings, accommodations in Ireland are quite uneven in quality and cost. Often these variations are due to location; a wonderful, budget B&B in an isolated area of countryside can be dirt-cheap, while a mediocre guesthouse in Dublin or Cork can cost much more.

In any given lodging, the size and quality of the rooms can vary considerably, often without any corresponding variation in cost. This is particularly true of single rooms, which can approach Victorian boardinghouse stand-ards in some guesthouses. Don’t be discouraged by this, but know what you’re getting into so you’re not disappointed. If you have complaints, state them at once and unambiguously—doing so may bring an immediate resolution (ask for a lower rate or a better room).

Note: Many lodgings close for a few days or more on and around Christmas, even when they announce that they are open year-round. If you plan to visit Ireland during the Christmas holidays, double-check that the hotels, restaurants, and attractions you’re counting on will be open.

Keys to the Castle

Dream of spending your vacation like a king or queen? Two companies specialize in self-catering accommodations in Ireland’s historic and architecturally significant properties—including elegant Georgian manor houses, stately country mansions, lighthouses, and castles. The Irish Landmark Trust, 25 Eustace St., Dublin 2 ( 01/670-4733; www.irishlandmark.com), rescues historic but neglected properties all over the island and restores them into fabulous hideaways, complete with period furnishings. It’s a not-for-profit institution, so prices are hard to beat. Elegant Ireland, 15 Harcourt St., Dublin 2 ( 01/473-2505; www.elegant.ie), can put you up in anything from an upscale seaside bungalow to a medieval castle that sleeps 20. As most properties are privately owned, they are priced according to what the market will bear. Bargains are harder to come by, and deals are more likely in the off season.

IRELAND

Area Codes Area codes in Ireland range from one digit (the Dublin area code is “1”) to three. Area codes are included in all listings in this guide. Within Ireland, you dial 0 before the area code. Outside of Ireland, however, you do not dial 0 before the area code.

Business Hours Banks are open 10am to 4pm Monday to Wednesday and Friday, and 10am to 5pm Thursday. Post offices (also known as An Post) in larger city centers are open from 9am to 5:30pm Monday to Friday and 9am to 1:30pm Saturday. The GPO on O’Connell Street in Dublin is open 8:30am to 6pm Monday to Saturday. Post offices in small towns often close for lunch from 1 to 2:30pm. Museums and sights are generally open 10am to 5pm Tuesday to Saturday and 2 to 5pm Sunday. Shops generally open 9am to 6pm Monday to Friday, with late opening on Thursday until 7 or 8pm, and Saturday from 10am to 5pm. In Dublin’s city center, most department stores and many shops are open noon to 6pm Sunday.

In Northern Ireland, bank hours are Monday to Friday 9:30am to 4:30pm. Post offices are open 9:30am to 5:30pm Monday to Friday and Saturday 9am to 1pm. Some in smaller towns close for an hour at lunchtime. Shopping hours are much the same as in the Republic, with some smaller shops closing for an hour at lunchtime.

Car Rental See “By Car” under “Getting Around,” earlier in this chapter.

Cellphones See “Mobile Phones,” below.

Crime See “Safety,” later in this section.

Disabled Travelers For travelers with disabilities, Ireland is a mixed bag. Its modern buildings and cities are generally accessible, but many of its buildings are historic, and those often lack wheelchair access. Trains can be accessed by wheelchairs but only with assistance. If you plan to travel by train in Ireland, be sure to check out Iarnród Éireann’s website (www.irishrail.ie), which includes services for travelers with disabilities. A mobility-impaired liaison officer ( 01/703-3299) can arrange assistance for travelers with disabilities if given 24-hour notice prior to the departure time.

If you’re conducting research prior to your trip, one of the best Irish-based online resources is www.disability.ie.

For advice on travel to Northern Ireland, contact Disability Action, Portside Business Park, 189 Airport Rd. W., Belfast BT3 9ED ( 028/9029-7880; www.disabilityaction.org). The Northern Ireland Tourist Board also publishes a helpful annual Information Guide to Accessible Accommodation, available from any of its offices worldwide.

Finding accessible lodging can be tricky in Ireland. Many of the buildings here are hundreds of years old, and older hotels, small guesthouses, and landmark buildings still have steps outside and in. The National Rehabilitation Board of Ireland, 24–25 Clyde Rd., Ballsbridge, Dublin 4 ( 01/608-0400), publishes several guides to accessible guesthouses, the best of which is Guide to Accessible Accommodation in Ireland).

Many travel agencies offer customized tours and itineraries for travelers with disabilities. Among them are Flying Wheels Travel ( 507/451-5005; www.flyingwheelstravel.com), Access-Able Travel Source ( 303/232-2979; www.access-able.com), and Accessible Journeys ( 800/846-4537 or 610/521-0339; www.disabilitytravel.com).

Doctors Healthcare in Ireland is comparable to that in other European nations. In the Irish system, private doctors and hospitals provide care and patients purchase healthcare insurance. Contact the International Association for Medical Assistance to Travelers (IAMAT; 716/754-4883, or 416/652-0137 in Canada; www.iamat.org) for tips on health in Ireland, and for lists of doctors.

Drinking Laws You must be age 18 or over to be served alcoholic beverages in Ireland. Restaurants with liquor licenses are permitted to serve alcohol during the hours when meals are served. Hotels and guesthouses with licenses can serve during normal hours to the public; overnight guests, referred to as “residents,” can be served after closing hours. Children are allowed in pubs that serve food during daylight hours. Alcoholic beverages by the bottle can be purchased at stores displaying OFF-LICENSE signs and at most supermarkets, but only during legal drinking hours. Ireland has very severe laws and penalties regarding driving while intoxicated, and the legal blood-alcohol limit is low—even one pint can put some people over the limit.

Driving Rules See “Getting Around,” earlier in this chapter.

Electricity The Irish electric system operates on 220 volts with a plug bearing three rectangular prongs. The Northern Irish system operates on 240 volts. To use standard American 110-volt appliances, you’ll need both a transformer and a plug adapter. Most new laptops have built-in transformers, but some do not, so beware. Attempting to use only a plug adapter is a sure way to fry your appliance or, worse, cause a fire.

Embassies & Consulates The American Embassy is at 42 Elgin Rd., Ballsbridge, Dublin 4 ( 01/668-8777); the Canadian Embassy is at 7–8 Wilton Terrace, Third Floor, Dublin 2 ( 01/417-4100); the British Embassy is at 29 Merrion Rd., Dublin 2 ( 01/205-3700); and the Australian Embassy is at Fitzwilton House, Seventh Floor, Wilton Terrace, Dublin 2 ( 01/664-5300). In addition, there is an American Consulate at Danesfort House, 223 Stranmillis Rd., Belfast BT9 5GR ( 028/9038-6100).

Emergencies For the Garda (police), fire, ambulance, or other emergencies, dial 999.

Family Travel To locate accommodations, restaurants, and attractions that are particularly kid-friendly, look for the “Kids” icon throughout this guide.

Gasoline In Ireland, gas is called petrol and it is sold by the liter. At press time, the cost of a liter of petrol was about €1.40, which means a gallon of gas was around €5.60.

Insurance For information on traveler’s insurance, trip cancellation insurance, and medical insurance while traveling, please visit www.frommers.com/planning.

Internet & Wi-Fi Wi-Fi is widespread in Irish cities, but rural areas are still not well served. The best B&Bs do provide it, but in some far-flung areas (Donegal, the North, and parts of Galway) it’s still quite rare in rural B&Bs, and even some four-star hotels. Internet cafes are less common than they used to be, although you’ll still find PCs you can use in hotels, hostels, libraries, and tourist information offices, especially in larger towns and more tourist-centered areas.

Language Ireland has two official languages: English and Gaelic (which is also known as Irish). All native Irish can speak English. Gaelic is growing in popularity, and there is a strong national movement to preserve and expand use of the language. Areas of the country where Gaelic is protected and promoted are known as the Gaeltacht and include Donegal, Galway, and parts of Kerry. In these regions, signs are in Gaelic only (no English translation is provided). As Gaelic is a complex and ancient language that you will not be able to figure out on your own, don’t hesitate to ask for help (in English) if you get lost—despite the government’s best efforts, everybody in Gaeltacht regions speaks English.

LGBT Travelers Ireland has come a long way since homosexuality was legalized in 1993 (1982 in the North), but gay and lesbian visitors should be aware that this is still a deeply conservative country. With rare exceptions, gay communities are low-key, and even in such ostensibly liberal places as Dublin and Galway, gay bashing is not unheard of. Things have improved a great deal, but proceed with caution.

There’s a burgeoning gay community in Dublin. The Gay Community News (GCN), a monthly free newspaper of comprehensive Irish gay-related information, is available in gay venues and bookshops. In Dublin, the city’s leading event listings guide, dedicates several pages to gay events, club info, and a helpful directory. Two small magazines have recently emerged—Free! and Scene City—and both contain city maps with gay venues highlighted.

Among the best resources on the Web are Gay Ireland Online (www.gay-ireland.com) and Outhouse (www.outhouse.ie). These include events listings, advice sections, useful contacts, and discussion forums.

Mail In Ireland, mailboxes are painted green with the word POST on top. In Northern Ireland, they usually look the same but are painted red, with a royal coat of arms symbol. From the Republic, an airmail letter or postcard to the United States or Canada, not exceeding 25 grams, costs €.85 and takes 5 to 7 days to arrive. From Northern Ireland to the United States or Canada, airmail letters not exceeding 20 grams cost 97p and postcards 50p and also take about 5 to 7 days.

Mobile Phones The three letters that define much of the world’s wireless capabilities are GSM (Global System for Mobiles), a big, seamless network that makes for easy cross-border cellphone use throughout Europe and dozens of other countries worldwide. In the U.S., T-Mobile and AT&T Wireless use this quasi-universal system; in Canada, Microcell and some Rogers customers are GSM, and all Europeans and most Australians use GSM.

If your cellphone is on a GSM system, and you have a world-capable multiband phone, you can make and receive calls while you’re in Ireland. Just call your wireless operator and ask for “international roaming” to be activated on your account. Unfortunately, per-minute charges can be very high. Other options include renting a phone in Ireland. You can either rent a phone from any number of overseas sites, including kiosks at airports and at car-rental agencies, or rent one before you leave home.

As another option, you can purchase a “pay as you go” SIM card from an Irish phone company and use that in your own phone, topping it up whenever you need to. There’s a Vodafone shop in Dublin airport where you can purchase an Irish SIM card. This allows you to pay in-country rather than international rates for calls you receive while you’re there.

Disposable phones are less common in Ireland and the U.K. than in some other countries, although some supermarkets do sell them.

If you buy a disposable phone or an Irish SIM card, local calls may be as low as 10¢ per minute, and in Ireland incoming calls are free.

Money & Costs The Republic of Ireland uses the single European currency known as the euro (€). Euro notes come in denominations of €5, €10, €20, €50, €100, €200, and €500. The euro is divided into 100 cents; coins come in denominations of €2, €1, 50¢, 20¢, 10¢, 5¢, 2¢, and 1¢.

As part of the United Kingdom, Northern Ireland uses the British pound sterling (£). The British pound is not accepted in the Republic, and the euro is not accepted in the North—if you’re traveling in both parts of Ireland, you’ll need some of both currencies, although shops right on the border tend to accept both. For those traveling between Great Britain and Northern Ireland, although the pounds issued in Northern Ireland are legal tender in Great Britain and vice versa, the paper money actually looks different, and you may find that cabdrivers and small business owners in the North won’t accept bills issued in Great Britain and vice versa. In that case, you can change the money into locally issued versions at any large central bank, free of charge.

The British currency used in Northern Ireland has notes in denominations of £5, £10, £20, £50, and £100. Coins are issued in £2, £1, 50p, 20p, 10p, 5p, 2p, and 1p denominations.

Note for all international travelers: The values of most currencies have been fluctuating a great deal lately, so it is best to begin checking exchange rates well in advance of your visit to get a feel for where they will stand for your trip.

The easiest and best way to get cash away from home is from an ATM (automated teller machine), sometimes referred to as a “cash machine” or a “cashpoint.” The Cirrus and PLUS ATM networks span the globe; look at the back of your bank card to see which network you’re on. Be sure you know your personal identification number (PIN) and daily withdrawal limit before you depart. Note: Remember that many banks impose a fee every time you use a card at another bank’s ATM, and that fee can be higher for international transactions (up to $5 or more). In addition, the bank from which you withdraw cash may charge its own fee. For international withdrawal fees, ask your bank.

Large towns usually have an ATM, but in rural counties—especially Galway, Clare, and Limerick—ATMs can be few and far between. We once drove 50 miles looking for an ATM in Clare before finally finding one, so stock up on cash if you’re headed out to the countryside. If you’re having difficulty locating an ATM, some convenience stores have their own (usually indicated by a sign outside), although these usually incur an extra charge of a couple of euros.

Most Republic and Northern Ireland ATMs accept PINs of four to six digits, but they often do not have alphanumeric keypads. If your PIN features letters (for example: STAN37), use a telephone dial to figure out the numeric equivalents (or better yet, memorize it before you leave home).

Credit cards are another safe way to carry money. They also provide a convenient record of all your expenses, and they generally offer relatively good exchange rates. You can withdraw cash advances from your credit cards at banks or ATMs, provided you know your PIN. Keep in mind that you’ll pay interest from the moment of your withdrawal, even if you pay your monthly bills on time. Also, note that many banks now assess a 1% to 3% “transaction fee” on all charges you incur abroad (whether you’re using the local currency or your native currency). Visa and MasterCard are the most widely accepted credit cards in Ireland. American Express and Diners Club are accepted by most major hotels, but are less commonly accepted elsewhere. Cards are widely accepted at shops and restaurants, although small rural businesses and some B&Bs do not accept them.

Traveler’s checks are not widely accepted in Ireland. You’ll probably have to change the checks at a bank and pay a fee for the privilege. That said, the most popular traveler’s checks are offered by American Express ( 800/807-6233 or 800/221-7282 for cardholders—this number accepts collect calls, offers service in several languages, and exempts Amex gold and platinum cardholders from the 1% fee), Visa ( 1800-411-055 toll-free in Ireland), and MasterCard ( 800/622-7747).

For help with currency conversions, tip calculations, and more, download Frommer’s convenient Travel Tools app for your mobile device. Go to www.frommers.com/go/mobile and click on the “Travel Tools” icon.

Newspapers & Magazines The Irish Independent is the country’s bestselling newspaper, and it’s published daily (www.independent.ie). Other major daily newspapers include the Irish Examiner and the Irish Times. The Dubliner Magazine is a slick, monthly news and entertainment magazine with listings, arts and culture information, and a useful website (www.thedubliner.ie). In Dublin Magazine (www.indublin.ie) is a popular arts-and-entertainment listings magazine.

Passports See www.frommers.com/planning for current discussions and news about passports. See “Embassies & Consulates,” above, for whom to contact if you lose yours while traveling in Ireland. For additional, country-specific information, please contact the following agencies:

For Residents of Australia Contact the Australian Passport Information Service at 131-232, or visit the government website at www.passports.gov.au.

For Residents of Canada Contact the central Passport Office, Department of Foreign Affairs and International Trade, Ottawa, ON K1A 0G3 ( 800/567-6868; www.ppt.gc.ca).

For Residents of New Zealand Contact the Passports Office at 0800/225-050 in New Zealand or 04/474-8100, or log on to www.passports.govt.nz.

For Residents of the United Kingdom Visit your nearest passport office, major post office, or travel agency or contact the United Kingdom Passport Service at 0870/521-0410 or search its website at www.ukpa.gov.uk.

For Residents of the United States To find your regional passport office, either check the U.S. State Department website (www.state.gov) or call the National Passport Information Center toll-free number ( 877/487-2778) for automated information.

Petrol. Please see "Gasoline" above.

Police In the Republic of Ireland, a law enforcement officer is called a Garda, a member of the Garda Síochána (“Guardian of the Peace”); in the plural, it’s Gardaí (pronounced Gar-dee) or simply “the Guards.” Dial 999 to reach the Gardaí in an emergency. Except for special detachments, Irish police are unarmed and wear dark blue uniforms. In Northern Ireland you can also reach the police by dialing 999.

Safety By U.S. standards, Ireland is very safe, but, particularly in the cities, it’s not safe enough to warrant carelessness. Travelers should take normal precautions to protect their belongings from theft and themselves from harm. In the countryside, you’re unlikely to encounter any problems with crime, but keep valuables in the trunk of your car all the same. In Dublin and Belfast, you’ll need to be wary of the usual tourists’ plague: pickpockets, purse snatchers, and car thieves. Also, in recent years, some of Dublin’s busiest thoroughfares have been the scenes of brutal attacks at night. To alert visitors to potential dangers, the Dublin Police (called the Garda) publish a small leaflet, A Short Guide to Tourist Security, which is available at tourist offices and other public places. The booklet advises you not to carry large amounts of money or important documents like your passport or airline tickets when strolling around.

Most advice is standard for travel anywhere: Do not leave cars unlocked or cameras, binoculars, or other expensive equipment unattended. Take special care if you’ll be out in Dublin late at night when the pubs and nightclubs close. Ask at your hotel which areas are safe and which are not. Take a taxi back to your hotel if you’re out after about 11pm.

In Northern Ireland, safety has to be a somewhat greater concern because of the political unrest that has prevailed there for the past 30 years, but violence has diminished. Occasionally flare-ups do happen, and there were a number of incidents in 2011. Outbreaks of violence often occur during the Orange marching season in the late summer. Still, visitors rarely, if ever, have problems with sectarian strife, since they are simply not the target of it.

Senior Travel Mention the fact that you’re a senior when you first make your travel reservations—although most of the major U.S. airlines have canceled their senior discount and coupon book programs, many hotels still offer discounts for seniors. In most cities, people over the age of 60 qualify for reduced admission to theaters, museums, and other attractions.

Seniors, known throughout Ireland as OAPs (old-age pensioners), enjoy a variety of discounts and privileges. Native OAPs ride the public transport system free of charge, but the privilege does not extend to tourists. Visiting seniors can avail themselves of other discounts, though, particularly on admission to attractions and theaters. Always ask about an OAP discount if special rates are not posted.

Tourism Ireland is helpful, and can offer advice on how to find the best accommodations, travel, and so forth. It publishes lists of reduced-rate hotel packages for seniors; contact it for details.

Members of AARP (formerly known as the American Association of Retired Persons), 601 E St. NW, Washington, DC 20049 ( 888/687-2277; www.aarp.org), get discounts on hotels, airfares, and car rentals. AARP offers members a wide range of benefits, including AARP The Magazine and a monthly newsletter. Anyone 50 and over can join. Similarly, SAGA Tours ( 800/343-0273 or 617/262-2262) operates tours to Ireland specifically geared to seniors or anyone 50 and over.

Smoking Ireland and Northern Ireland both have broad antismoking laws that ban smoking in all public places, including bars, restaurants, and hotel lobbies. However, most restaurants and pubs have covered outdoor smoking areas.

Student Travel If you’re interested in studying here, contact your university to find out if it has a partnership program in Ireland. To get basic info on whether or not you need a student visa and how to get one, get in touch with the Irish Department of Foreign Affairs Visa Section, Hainault House, 69–71 St. Stephen’s Green, Dublin ( 01/478-0822). U.S. firms offering educational travel programs to Ireland include Academic Travel Abroad ( 800/523-4293; www.academictravel.com) and North American Institute for Study Abroad ( 570/275-5099).

If you do spend a semester or two in Ireland, contact the Union of Students in Ireland Travel ( 01/602-1906; www.usit.ie). It’s great for arranging travel from and around Ireland at the cheapest rates. Its notice boards are filled with flat shares, language classes, jobs, and cheap flights.

If you’re looking for less structured knowledge, try spending a week in Glencolmcille, County Donegal, studying the Irish (Gaelic) language, dancing, archaeology, Celtic pottery, or tapestry weaving at Oideas Gael ( 074/973-0248; www.oideas-gael.com).

If you’re traveling internationally, you’d be wise to arm yourself with an International Student Identity Card (ISIC), which offers substantial savings on rail passes, plane tickets, and entrance fees. It also provides you with basic health and life insurance and a 24-hour helpline. The card is available from STA Travel ( 800/781-4040 in North America; www.sta.com or www.statravel.com, or www.statravel.co.uk in the U.K.), the biggest student travel agency in the world. If you’re no longer a student but are still age 25 or under, you can get an International Youth Travel Card (IYTC) from the same people, which entitles you to some discounts (but not on museum admissions). Travel CUTS ( 800/592-2887 in the U.S. or 1866/246-9762 in Canada; www.travelcuts.com) offers similar services for both Canadians and U.S. residents. Irish students may prefer to turn to USIT ( 01/602-1906; www.usit.ie), an Ireland-based specialist in student, youth, and independent travel.

Taxes As in many European countries, sales tax is called VAT (value-added tax) and is often already included in the price quoted to you or shown on price tags. In the Republic, VAT rates vary—for hotels, restaurants, and car rentals, it is 13.5%; for souvenirs and gifts, it is 21%. In Northern Ireland, the VAT is 20% across the board. VAT charged on services such as hotel stays, meals, car rentals, and entertainment cannot be refunded to visitors, but the VAT on products such as souvenirs is refundable.

Telephones In the Republic, the telephone system is known as Eircom; in Northern Ireland, it’s British Telecom. Every effort has been made to ensure that the numbers and information in this guide are accurate at the time of writing. Overseas calls from Ireland can be quite costly, whether you use a local phone card or your own calling card.

To call Ireland from home: Dial the international access code (011 from the U.S., 00 from the U.K., 0011 from Australia, or 0170 from New Zealand). Then dial the country code (353 for the Republic, 44 for the North). Next, dial the local number, remembering to omit the initial 0, which is for use only within Ireland (for example, to call the County Kerry number 066/12345 from the United States, you’d dial 011-353-66/12345).

To make local calls: To dial a local number within an area code, drop the initial 0. To dial a number within Ireland, but in a different area code, use the initial 0. Local calls from a phone booth require a Callcard (in the Republic) or Phonecard (in the North). Both are prepaid computerized cards that you insert into the phone instead of coins. They can be purchased in a range of denominations at phone company offices, post offices, and many retail outlets (such as newsstands). There’s a local and international phone center at the General Post Office on O’Connell Street in Dublin.

To make international calls from within Ireland, first dial 00 and then the country code (U.S. and Canada 1, U.K. 44, Australia 61, New Zealand 64). Next you dial the area code and local number. For example, to call the U.S. number 212/000-0000 from Ireland, you’d dial 00-1-212/000-0000. The toll-free international access code for AT&T is 1-800-550-000, for Sprint it’s 1-800-552-001, and for MCI it’s 1-800-55-1001. Note: To dial direct to Northern Ireland from the Republic, simply replace the 028 prefix with 048.

For directory assistance, dial the toll-free number 11811 if you’re looking for a number inside Ireland. In Northern Ireland, try 118888. From the United States, the (toll) number to call is 00353-91-770220.

Time Ireland follows Greenwich Mean Time (1 hr. earlier than Central European Time) from November to March, and British Summer Time (the same as Central European Time) from April to October. Ireland is 5 hours ahead of the eastern United States. Ireland’s latitude makes for longer days and shorter nights in the summer, and the reverse in the winter. In June, the sun doesn’t fully set until around 11pm, but in December, it is dark by 4pm.

Tipping For porters or bellhops, tip €1 per piece of luggage. For taxi drivers, hairdressers, and other providers of service, tip as you would at home, an average of 10% to 15%.

For restaurants, the policy is usually printed on the menu—either a gratuity of 10% to 12% is automatically added to your bill or it’s left up to you. Always ask if you are in doubt. As a rule, bartenders do not expect a tip, except when table service is provided.

Toilets Public restrooms are usually simply called “toilets” or are marked with international symbols. In the Republic of Ireland, some of the older ones still carry the Gaelic words FIR (MEN) and MNA (WOMEN). Among the newest and best-kept restrooms are those found at shopping malls and department stores. Free restrooms are available to customers of sightseeing attractions, museums, hotels, restaurants, pubs, shops, and theaters. Most of the newer gas stations (called “petrol stations” in Ireland) have public toilets, and a few have baby-changing facilities.

VAT See “Taxes,” above.

Visas Citizens of the United States, Canada, Australia, and New Zealand entering the Republic of Ireland or Northern Ireland for a stay of up to 3 months do not need a visa, but a valid passport is required.

For citizens of the United Kingdom, when traveling on flights originating in Britain, the same rules apply as they would for travel to any other member state of the European Union (E.U.).

For information about Irish Visas go to www.travel.state.gov and click on “Visas.” If you have any doubts about your eligibility, contact the Irish Embassy in your home country. A full list of countries who qualify for the Irish Visa waiver program can be found by going to www.citizensinformation.ie and clicking on “Travel and Recreation,” “Travel to Ireland,” then “Visas for Tourists Visiting Ireland.”

Water Tap water throughout the island of Ireland is generally safe. However, some areas in the west of Ireland have been battling with out-of-date water-purification systems. This is rare, but keep an eye out for signs warning you that water is not drinkable, and always carry a large bottle of water with you.

Wi-Fi See “Internet & Wi-Fi,” earlier in this section.

Women Travelers Women should expect few if any problems traveling in Ireland. Women are accepted traveling alone or in groups in virtually every environment, and gone are the days when women were expected to order half-pints of beer in pubs, while men were allowed to order the bigger, more cost-effective pints of ale. In fact, the only time you’re likely to attract any attention at all is if you eat alone in a restaurant at night—a sight that is still relatively uncommon in Ireland outside of the major cities. Even then, you’ll not be hassled.

If you drink in a pub on your own, though, expect all kinds of attention, as a woman drinking alone is still considered to be on the market—even if she’s reading a book, talking on her cellphone to her fiancé, or doing a crossword puzzle. So be prepared to fend them off. Irish men almost always respond well to polite rejection, though.

In cities, as ever, take a cab home at night, and follow all the usual advice of caution you get when you travel anywhere. Essentially, don’t do anything in Ireland that you wouldn’t do at home.

Copyright © 2012 John Wiley & Sons, Inc., Hoboken, New Jersey. All rights reserved.

No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording, scanning or otherwise, except as permitted under Sections 107 or 108 of the 1976 United States Copyright Act, without either the prior written permission of the Publisher, or authorization through payment of the appropriate per-copy fee to the Copyright Clearance Center, 222 Rosewood Drive, Danvers, MA 01923, 978/750-8400, fax 978/646-8600. Requests to the Publisher for permission should be addressed to the Permissions Department, John Wiley & Sons, Inc., 111 River Street, Hoboken, NJ 07030, 201/748-6011, fax 201/748-6008, or online at http://www.wiley.com/go/permissions.

Frommer’s is a trademark or registered trademark of Arthur Frommer. Used under license. All other trademarks are the property of their respective owners.

ISBN 9781118191811 (ebk); ISBN 9781118191804 (ebk); ISBN 9781118191828 (ebk)

For information on our other products and services or to obtain technical support, please contact our Customer Care Department within the U.S. at 877/762-2974, outside the U.S. at 317/572-3993 or fax 317/572-4002.

Index

A

Abbey Tavern (Dublin), 186

Abbey Theatre (Dublin), 188

Accommodations, 660–665. See also Accommodations Index

best, 16–20

Achill Island (An Caol), 498

Active vacations, best, 15–16

Adare, 412

Adare Heritage Centre, 412

Adventure trips, 57

Aer Arann Islands, 472

Ahenny High Crosses, 394

Aille Cross Equestrian Centre (Loughrea), 464

Aillwee Cave (Ballyvaughan), 433–434

AirCoach (Dublin), 101

Airlink Express Coach (Dublin), 101

Air travel, 292, 655, 660

Alias Tom (Dublin), 175

All-Ireland Hurling & Gaelic Football Finals (Dublin), 55

Altamont Garden, 91, 202

American Express, Dublin, 112

Ancient Ireland

best of, 9–10

suggested itinerary, 73–75

An Creagán Visitors' Centre (Creggan), 640

Andrew Jackson Cottage (Carrickfergus), 596–597

Angling. See Fishing

Angling Kinsale, 314

Anna Livia (Dublin), 155

AnOige, 87

Antrim Coast, 608

Apartment (Belfast), 592

Aran Island Ferries, 472

Aran Islands, 441, 471–473

Aran knit sweaters, 484

Aras an Uachtaráin (Dublin), 141

Architecture tours, 57

Archive's Antiques Centre (Belfast), 583

Ardara (Ard an Rátha), 545, 549

Ardara Heritage Centre, 550

Ardclinis Activity Centre (Cushendall), 612

Ardgillan Castle and Demesne (Balbriggan), 194

Ardhowen Theatre (Enniskillen), 653

Ardmore High Cross, 265–266

Ards Forest Park, 553

Ards Peninsula, 598–602

Area codes, 665

The Ark: A Cultural Centre for Children (Dublin), 162

Arklow Golf Club, 212–213

Armagh, County, 604–607

Armagh Astronomy Centre and Planetarium, 605

Armagh City, 605

Armagh County Museum, 605

Armagh Public Library, 605–606

Arnotts (Dublin), 172

Arnotts Project (Dublin), 175

Arthur's Quay Centre (Limerick), 409

Arthur Young's Walk, 364

Arts and Crafts Market (Limerick), 409

Athassel Priory, 394, 396

Athlone Castle, 487

Athlone Golf Club, 490

The Atlantic Highlands, 548–557

Atlantic Sea Kayaking (Skibbereen), 332

Attic @ Liquid (Galway City), 467

Aughnanure Castle (Oughterard), 476

Austins (Derry), 633

Aviva Stadium (Dublin), 171

Avoca Handweavers

Avoca, 211

Connemara, 478–479

Dublin, 173, 174

Moll's Gap, 349

Avondale House & Forest Park (Rathdrum), 204

B

Backroads, 84, 89

Badger Cave (Blarney), 301

Baginbun Head, 248

Ballina (Béal an Atha), 423, 498

Ballinderry, 423

Ballinskelligs, 346

Ballintubber Abbey, 499–500

Ballycroy National Park, 88

Ballyferriter, 375

Ballyhack, 248

Ballyhack Castle, 247

Ballymaloe Cookery School (Shanagarry), 321

Ballynahinch Castle Hotel, 480

Ballyshannon, 540

Ballyvaughan, 432

Baltimore Diving Centre, 331

Ba Mizu (Dublin), 184

Banba's Crown (Fíorcheann Éireann), 559

Bandon Pottery (Enniskeane), 329–330

The Bank on College Green (Dublin), 184–185

Bantry House, 326

Bar Bacca/La Lea (Belfast), 592

Barkers (Wexford), 253

Barleycove Beach, 330

Barnesmore Gap, 559

Battle of Aughrim Interpretative Centre (near Ballinasloe), 488

Battle of the Boyne Commemoration (Belfast and other cities), 54

Beaches. See also specific beaches

County Wexford, 254

Dingle Peninsula, 379

Donegal Bay, 542, 552

Dublin area, 167–168

Glencolumbkille, 546

Inishowen Peninsula, 560

Sligo Bay, 519

West Cork, 330

Beaghmore Stone Circles, 640–641

Beara Peninsula, 330, 332

Beatty, Sir Alfred Chester, 144

Bective Abbey (near Kells), 229

Belfast, 571–596

accommodations, 585–589

Black Taxi Tour, 577

emergencies, 575

getting around, 574–575

getting there, 572, 574

nightlife, 592–596

outdoor pursuits, 585

pubs, 575

restaurants, 590–592

seeing the sights, 575–583

shopping, 583–585

side trips from, 596–607

U.S. consulate general, 575

visitor information, 574

Belfast Castle, 576

Belfast Cathedral, 576

Belfast City Marathon, 52

Belfast Zoo, 576–577

Belleek, 645

Belleek china, 647

Belleek Visitors Centre, 646–647

Belltable Arts Centre (Limerick), 412

Ben Bulben, 518

Benburb Valley Park, Castle, and Heritage Centre, 606

Benwee Head, 506

Bergin Clarke Studio (Rathdrum), 212

Biking and mountain biking, 83–85

Ards Peninsula, 600–601

Athlone, 490

Connemara, 479

Cork City, 306

County Meath, 234

County Tipperary, 398

County Waterford, 267

County Wexford and County Carlow, 254

Derry, 633

Dingle, 379–380

Donegal Town, 536

Dublin, 112

Fermanagh Lakelands, 649–650

Galway City, 464

Kildare, 225

Killarney, 364

Kinsale, 314

Mourne Mountains, 620

northern Donegal Bay, 546

Sligo, 519

the Southeast, 281

Sperrin countryside, 643

West Cork, 330–331

Billy Delaney Cabs (Kilkenny City), 275

Bird-watching, 90–92

the Atlantic Highlands, 553

County Clare, 434, 441

County Tipperary, 398

County Wexford, 254

Dingle Peninsula, 380

Dublin, 168

Fermanagh Lakelands, 650

Rathlin Island, 612

Sperrin Mountains, 643

West Cork, 331

Wexford Wildfowl Reserve, 247

BirdWatch Ireland, 91

Birr Castle Demesne, 488

Birr Golf Club, 490

Black Abbey (Kilkenny City), 275–276

Blackstairs Mountains, 255

Black Taxi Tours (Belfast), 57, 577

Blackwater Anglers (Kilmore Quay), 255

Blackwater estuary, 261

Blackwater River, 306

Blarney Castle, 300, 301

Blarney Lake, 301

Blarney Stone, 300, 301

Blarney Woollen Mills

near Cork City, 307

Dublin, 178

Blasket Island Ferry, 377

Blasket Islands, 375

Blennerville Windmill, 387

Blessington Lakes Leisure, 214

The Bloody Foreland, 550

Bloomsday Festival (Dublin), 53

Blue Haven (Kinsale), 314

Blue Pool Nature Trail, 360, 364–365

Blue Raincoat Theatre (Sligo), 523

Boating (boat rentals). See also Kayaking; Sailing

Athlone and Banagher, 490

Carrick-on-Shannon, 527–528

County Clare, 424–425

Fermanagh Lakelands, 650

Bogs

Connemara, 473, 475, 476

Peatlands Park, 606

The Bogside (Derry), 626, 629–630

Boland's Kinsale Crafts, 313

The Bolton Library (Cashel), 396

The Book Centre

Kilkenny City, 280

Waterford City, 267

The Book of Kells (Dublin), 141, 144

Books, recommended, 46

Booley Bay, 248

Boyle, 523

Boyle Abbey, 524–525

Brandon Bay, 379

Brandon Gallery, 378

Brandon's Bar (Ennis), 431

Bray, 165

Bray Head, 165, 170

Brennanstown Riding School (Kilmacanogue), 213

Breweries and distilleries

Dublin, 154–155

Locke's Distillery Museum (Kilbeggan), 489

Old Bushmills Distillery, 611

St. Francis Abbey Brewery (Kilkenny City), 277–278

Brian de Staic (Dingle), 378

Bridge Mills (Galway City), 464

The Bridge Pottery (Burnchurch), 280–281

Bridges of Ross, 441

Brigid, St., 225

Britton and Daughters (Rossnowlagh), 542

Broad Street Centre (Waterford City), 267

Browne's Hill Dolmen (Carlow), 204

Brown Thomas

Dublin, 172

Galway City, 466

Limerick, 409

Brú Ború Heritage Centre (Cashel), 396

Bruxelles (Dublin), 185

BT2 (Dublin), 175

Bull Island, 168

The Bull Ring (Wexford), 245

Bumblebee Festival (Tralee), 52

Buncrana, 557, 559, 560

Bundoran, 540

Bunratty, 419

Bunratty Castle and Folk Park, 420

Bunratty Village Mills, 424

Bunratty Winery, 421

The Bureau (Belfast), 583

The Burren, 432–437

Burren Bird of Prey Centre (Ballyvaughan), 434

The Burren Centre (Kilfenora), 434

Burren National Park, 88, 433

Burren Smokehouse (Lisdoonvarna), 441

Burren Way, 433

Burtonport (Ailt an Chorrain), 550

Bus Éireann, 57

Business hours, 665

Bus travel, 658, 660

Buttermarket, Enniskillen Craft and Design Centre, 649

Button Factory (Dublin), 189

Byrne's Bookstore & World of Wonder (Wexford), 253

C

Café en Seine (Dublin), 185

Caha Mountains, 332

Caherdaniel, 346

Cahersiveen, 344

Cahill Cycles (Naas), 225

Cahir Castle, 396–397

Calendar of events, 52–56

Cape Clear Island, 331, 333–334

Carlingford, 235–236

Carlingford Adventure Centre, 96

Carlingford Heritage Centre, 235–236

Carlow, County, 201–206, 209–210, 216–217

Carnlough, 608–609

Carrantuohill, 344

Carrick-a-Rede Rope Bridge (Larrybane), 609–610

Carrickfergus, 596–597

Carrickfergus Castle, 597

Carrigafoyle Castle (near Tralee), 386, 387

Carrowkeel Passage Tomb Cemetery, 516–517

Carrowmore Megalithic Cemetery, 515, 517

Car travel, 655–658

Cashel, 394

Casino Marino, 194–195

Castle Coole (near Enniskillen), 647

Castle Espie (Comber), 91–92, 599

Castlegregory, 375–376

The Castle Inn (Caislean Ui Cuain; Kilkenny City), 287

Castle Leslie (Glaslough), 651

Castle Lough, 426

Castlepark Marina Centre (Kinsale), 314

Castles, best, 8–9

Castletown (Celbridge), 222

Castletroy Golf Club, 409

Castle Ward (Strangford), 599

Castlewellan Forest Park, 619

The Cat & the Moon (Sligo), 514

Cathach Books (Dublin), 172, 174

Cathedral of St. Columb (Derry), 630–631

The Causeway Coast, 607–617

Causeway Coast Path, 613

Cavan Crystal Craft & Design Centre, 525

Cave Hill Country Park (Belfast), 577

C. Bonner & Son (Ardara), 552

Ceardlann an Spidéil/Spiddal Craft Village, 449

Céide Fields (Ballycastle), 500

Celbridge Cycle, 225

Cellphones, 667–668

Celtic Angling (Ballingarry), 409

Celtic Clays (Carlingford), 238

Celtic Cycling, 85, 212, 254, 267, 281, 398

The Celtic Note (Dublin), 179

The Celts, 29–31

Charles Fort (Kinsale), 311, 313

Charleville Castle (Tullamore), 488

Charlie Byrne's Bookshop (Galway City), 465

Chester Beatty Library (Dublin), 144

Christ Church Cathedral (Dublin), 144–145

Christianity, 31–32

best early Christian ruins, 10–12

Christy's Irish Stores (Killarney), 363

Church of the Assumption and Church of the Immaculate Conception (Wexford), 246

Church of the Long Man, 279

City Hall

Belfast, 578–579

Waterford City, 263

City Square (Waterford City), 267

C. Kennedy & Sons Ltd. (Ardara), 552

Claddagh Records (Dublin), 179

Claddagh ring, 455

Claire Garvey (Dublin), 175

Clare, County, 416–445

accommodations, 426–429, 436–437

coast of, 437–445

getting there, 416, 418

nightlife, 431–432, 437

restaurants, 429–431, 437, 444–445

seeing the sights, 420–424

shopping, 424

sports and outdoor pursuits, 424–426

visitor information, 418–419

Clare Heritage and Genealogical Centre (Corofin), 435

Clare Island, 498, 501

Clare Museum (Ennis), 421

Clarenbridge, 468

Clarke's Sports Den (Navan), 234

Clerys (Dublin), 172

Clifden, 475

Cliffs of Moher, 437–439

Cloghane, 376

Cloghereen Nature Trail, 360, 365

Clonalis House (near Castlerea), 525–526

Clonmacnoise (near Shannonbridge), 488–489

Clonmel, 394

Clonmel Civic Swimming Pool, 399

Clonmel Equestrian Centre, 398

Clonmines, 248

Clonshire Equestrian Centre (Adare), 409–410

Cloonamoyne Fishery (Ballina), 504

Club Classic (Cork City), 308

Coal Quay Market (Cork City), 301

Cobh: The Queenstown Story, 321–322

Cobwebs (Galway City), 465

Cois na hAbhna (Ennis), 431

Colligan River, 267

Collins, Michael, 43–44, 326, 328–329

Collins Barracks (Dublin), 145

Combridge Fine Arts (Dublin), 172

Comeragh Mountains, 261

Comeragh Valley Drive, 394

Cong, 495

Connemara Golf Club (Clifden), 480

Connemara Marble Visitor Centre, 479

Connemara National Park, 88, 476, 481

Connemara ponies, 478

Connemara region, 473–486

accommodations, 481–485

exploring the area, 475–478

getting there and getting around, 474

outdoor pursuits, 479–481

restaurants, 485–486

sights and attractions, 476–478

visitor information, 474

Connemara Walking Centre, 478

Coole Park National Forest, 469

Corcomroe Abbey (near Oughtmama), 435

Corcoran's Tours (Killarney), 358–359

Cork, County, 289–339

East, 320–324

South, 309–320

West, 325–339

accommodations, 334–338

exploring the region, 325–326

getting there, 325

outdoor pursuits, 330–332

restaurants, 338–339

seeing the sights, 326–329

shopping, 329–330

visitor information, 325

Cork and environs, 60

Cork Arts Theatre, 309

Cork Butter Museum (Cork City), 301–302

Cork City, 290–309

accommodations, 296–298

drugstores, 295

emergencies, 295

gays and lesbians, 295

getting around, 294–295

getting there, 292, 294

hospitals, 295

Internet access, 295

layout, 294

library, 295

nightlife, 307–309

outdoor pursuits, 306

police, 296

post office, 296

restaurants, 298–300

seeing the sights, 300–305

shopping, 306–307

spectator sports, 305–306

visitor information, 294

Cork City Gaol and Radio Museum, 302

Cork City Tours, 305

Cork Golf Club (Cork City), 306

Cork Midsummer Arts Festival, 53

Cork Opera House, 308

Cork Public Museum (Cork City), 302

Cork Racecourse (Cork City), 305

Cornmarket (Wexford), 245

Corofin, 432

Corrib Cruises, 478

Corrib Princess (Woodquay), 463

Costelloe & Costelloe (Dublin), 176

County Meath Golf Club (Trim), 234

County Wicklow Gardens Festival, 53

Courtmacsherry Ceramics, 330

Courtmacsherry Sea Angling Centre, 331

Crackpots Pottery (Kinsale), 313

Crafts of Ireland (Cork City), 307

Craftworks Gallery (Belfast), 583

Crag Cave (near Killarney), 361

Craggaunowen—The Living Past Experience (Quin), 422

Crawford Art Gallery (Cork City), 302–303

Credit cards, 669

Croagh Patrick, 498

Crom Estate (Newtownbutler), 647–648

Cromwell, Oliver, 36–37, 241

Cruises Street Shopping Centre (Limerick), 409

Crumlin Lodge Fisheries (Inverin), 450

Cuchulainn Country, 235–239

Culdaff (Cúil Dabhcha), 558

Cultra, 597–598

Cultúrlann McAdam O Fiaich (Belfast), 579, 583

Cultúrlann na hÉireann (Dublin), 186–187

Cummingeera, 332

The Curragh, 222

Curragh Golf Club, 226

Custy's Traditional Music Shop (Ennis), 424

Cyclescene (Cork City), 306

Cycling Safaris, 85, 212

D

Dalkey Castle and Heritage Centre, 190, 192

Dalkey Hill, 165, 170

Dalkey Island, 165

Dan O'Hara's Homestead Farm (Clifden), 476–477

DART (Dublin Area Rapid Transit), 110

David O'Sullivan's Cycles (Killarney), 364

De Barra Jewellery (Kenmare), 349

Declan Bates, 254

Delphi Mountain Resort, 96

The Derg Inn (Terryglass), 431

Dero's Tours (Killarney), 359, 362

Derreen Gardens (Lauragh), 326–327

Derry City, 624–639

accommodations, 634–636

getting around, 628–629

getting there, 627–628

history of, 624, 628

nightlife, 638–639

outdoor pursuits, 633–634

restaurants, 636–638

seeing the sights, 629–633

shopping, 633

tours, 629

visitor information, 628

Derry Craft Village, 633

Derry Genealogy Centre, 631–632

Derrynane, 346

Derrynane House National Historic Park, 346–347

Design Centre (Dublin), 175

Design Concourse (Galway City), 465

Designer Mart at Cow's Lane (Dublin), 177

DESIGNyard (Dublin), 176

Desmond Castle (Kinsale), 311

De Valera, Eamon, 43–45

Devenish Island (near Enniskillen), 648

Dingle Golf Club (Ceann Sibéal), 380

Dingle Sailing Centre, 380

Dingle's Oceanworld Aquarium, 376

Dingle Town and Peninsula, 371–385

accommodations, 382–384

emergencies, 374

exploring, 375–377

getting around, 372

getting there, 371

outdoor activities, 379–382

pubs, 385

restaurants, 384–385

shopping, 378–379

visitor information, 371–372

Dingle Way, 381

Disabled travelers, 665–666

Discover Dublin, 57

Distilleries and breweries

Dublin, 154–155

Locke's Distillery Museum (Kilbeggan), 489

Old Bushmills Distillery, 611

St. Francis Abbey Brewery (Kilkenny City), 277–278

Diving, 97–98

Ards Peninsula, 601

Connemara, 479

County Wexford, 255

Dingle, 380

West Cork, 331

Doe Castle (Creeslough), 550

Doheny & Nesbitt (Dublin), 75–76

Dolan's Pub and Restaurant (Limerick), 412

Dolan's Warehouse (Limerick), 412

Dollar Bay, 248

Dolphin-watching

Cork Harbour, 316

Shannon Estuary, 441

Donegal, County, 531–561

Donegal Bay Coast, 539–548

Northern Donegal Bay, 544–548

Donegal Bay Waterbus (Donegal), 534–535

Donegal Castle, 534

Donegal Craft Village, 535

Donegal Historical Society Museum (Rossnowlagh), 542

The Donegal Shop (Derry), 633

Donegal Town, 531–539

Donegal Town Summer Festival, 535

Dooks Golf Club (Glenbeigh), 350

Doolin, 438, 440–445

Doolin Crafts Gallery, 441

Doolin Ferry Co., 441

Doonbeg Golf Club, 441–442

Dooney Rock, 518

Douglas Golf Club, 306

Down Cathedral (Downpatrick), 603

Downpatrick, 603

Doyar-Chú, 90

The Dragon (Dublin), 187

The Drawing Room (Dublin), 174

Drinking laws, 666

Driving tours, best, 16

Drogheda, 37

Dromahair, 518

Drombeg Stone Circle (Rosscarbery and Glandore), 327

Dromineer, 423, 426

Dromoland Golf Club, 426

Druids Glen Golf Club (Newtonmountkennedy), 212

Druid's Heath (Newtonmountkennedy), 212

Druid Theatre (Galway City), 468

Drumcliff & Yeats's Grave, 517–518

Drumena Cashel (near Castlewellan), 619

Drum Manor Forest Park, 641

Dublin, 60, 100–199

accommodations, 114–127

American Express, 112

arriving in, 101–104

average temperatures, 51

banks, 112

business hours, 112

currency exchange, 112

dentists, 112

doctors, 112–113

embassies and consulates, 113

emergencies, 113

gays and lesbians, 113, 187

getting around, 109–112

hospitals, 113

hot lines, 113

Internet access, 113

layout, 105–107

magazines, 113

neighborhoods in brief, 107–108

nightlife, 179–190

pubs, 75–78, 179–183

orientation, 100–108

outdoor activities, 167–170

pharmacies, 113

police, 114

post office, 114

restaurants, 127–140

money-saving tips, 130

traditional Irish food, 136

shopping, 171–179

side trips from, 190–199

sights and attractions, 141–167

spectator sports, 170–171

visitor information, 104

weather, 114

Dublin Bus, 57, 101, 109

tours, 163–164

Dublin Castle, 146

Dublin City Bus Tour, 164

Dublin Ghost Bus, 164

Dublinia (Dublin), 147

Dublin International Airport, 101

Dublin International Film Festival, 52

Dublin Pass, 146

Dublin Tourism, 104

Dublin Woollen Mills, 178

Dublin Writers Museum, 147–148

Dublin Zoo, 162–163

Duiske Abbey, 274, 278

Dún Aengus (Inishmore), 472

Dunbeg Fort, 375

Dunbrody, SS, Emigrant Ship (New Ross), 252

Dunbrody Abbey (near Duncannon), 248

Dunbrody Visitor Centre (New Ross), 247, 249

Dundrum, 617

Dundrum Castle, 619

Dungarvan Golf Club, 268

Dunguaire (near Kinvara), 467–468

Dunguaire Castle (Kinvara), 469–470

Dún Laoghaire, 168, 190

Dunluce Castle (Bushmills), 610

Dunluce Centre (Bushmills), 610

Dunmore Cave (Ballyfoyle), 278

Dunmore East Adventure Centre, 268

Dunquin, 375

Dursey Island, 325–326

Durty Nelly's (Bunratty), 431–432

Dysert O'Dea Castle and Clare Archaeology Centre (Corofin), 422

E

Eagle Lodge Equestrian Centre (Gortatlea), 388

Eamonn Doran's (Dublin), 189

Earth (Derry), 639

Eask Tower (Dingle), 376–377

East Clare Golf Club, 426

East Clare Heritage Centre/Holy Island Tours (Tuamgraney), 422

East Cork, 320–324

Easter Rebellion (1916), 42–43

EastWest Mapping, 87

Eating and drinking, 48–50

Economy of Ireland, 26–27

Eddie Doherty (Ardara), 552

Electricity, 666

Elizabeth I, Queen, 36, 301

Elm Park Golf & Sports Club (Dublin), 168

Embassies and consulates, 666

Emerald Cycles/Ireland Rent-A-Bike, 85

Empire Music Hall (Belfast), 593, 595

Ennis, 419

The Ennis Bookshop, 424

Enniscorthy Castle, 250

Enniscorthy Golf Club, 255

Ennis Friary, 422–423

Ennis Golf Club, 426

Enniskillen, 645

Enniskillen Castle, 648

Erneside Shopping Centre (Enniskillen), 649

Erne Tours Ltd. (Enniskillen), 645

Eurotrek Raleigh, 85

Everyman Palace (Cork City), 309

Explore Erne (Belleek), 648

Exploris (Portaferry), 599

Eyre Square Centre (Galway City), 464

F

Fáilte Ireland Horse Show (Dublin), 54

Faithlegg Golf Club, 268

Fallers of Galway (Galway City), 465–466

Faller's Sweater Shop (Galway City), 466

Falls Road (Belfast), 579–580

Families with children

best activities for, 14–15

Dublin attractions, 164–165

suggested itinerary, 68–70

Fanad Peninsula, 550

Farmer's Market (Limerick), 409

Farmhouse Holidays, 337

Fermanagh Lakelands, 645–653

Ferns Castle, 250

The Ferryman of Coliemore Harbour, 165

Festivals and special events, 52–56

Films, 47

The Firkin Crane (Cork City), 308–309

Fishing, 94–95

Ards Peninsula, 601

Belfast, 585

Connemara, 480

Cork City, 306

County Mayo, 504

County Waterford, 267

Derry, 633

Dingle, 380

Donegal Town, 536

Dublin, 168

Fermanagh Lakelands, 650

Galway Bay coast, 450

Galway City, 464

Killarney, 364

Kinsale, 314

Limerick, 409

Mourne Mountains, 620

North Antrim Glens, 613

northern Donegal Bay, 546

River Nore, 281

River Suir, 398

Roscommon, 528

Sligo, 519

Sperrin Mountains, 643

West Cork, 331

Wicklow, 212

Fishing, Shooting and Archery Store (Limerick), 409

Fitzgerald, John, 413

Fitzgerald Stadium (Killarney), 365–366

Fleadh Cheoil na hÉireann (Tullamore), 54

Florence Court, 648–649

Focus Theatre (Dublin), 188

Folk Village Shop (Glencolumbkille), 545

Forest reserve parks, 88

Forget-Me-Not/The Craft Shop (Donegal), 535

Fort Dunree Military Museum (Buncrana), 559

Forum Theatre (Waterford City), 271

Fota Island Golf Club (Carrigtwohill), 314

Fota Island Wildlife Park & Arboretum Gardens, 322–323

Foynes Flying Boat Museum, 412–413

Frank Lewis Gallery (Killarney), 363

The Front Lounge (Dublin), 187

The Fry Model Railway (Malahide), 195

Fuchsia Crafts (Oughterard), 479

Funderland (Dublin), 52

Fungie the Dolphin (Dingle), 377, 382

G

GAA Museum (Dublin), 163

Gaelic, 41

Gaelic games

Cork City, 305

Killarney, 365–366

Gaelic sports, Dublin, 170

Gaeltacht, 41

County Mayo, 495

Gaiety (Dublin), 188

Gallarus Oratory (near Ballyferriter), 375

Galtee Mountains, 394, 399

Galway, County. See also Connemara region; Galway City

eastern, 486–493

Galway Bay coast, 447–451

Galway and environs, 61

Galway Arts Centre (Galway City), 462

Galway Arts Festival & Races (Galway City), 54

Galway Bay coast, 447–451

Galway Cathedral (Galway City), 462

Galway City, 451–471

accommodations, 456–459

drugstores, 455

emergencies, 455

gays and lesbians, 455

getting around, 454–455

getting there, 452, 454

Internet access, 455–456

layout, 454

nightlife, 466–468

post office, 456

pubs, 466–467

restaurants, 459–461

seeing the sights, 461–463

shopping, 464–466

spectator sports, 463–464

suburbs of, 468–471

visitor information, 454

Galway City Museum, 462

Galway Golf Club (Blackrock), 464

Galway Greyhound Track, 463

Galway Irish Crystal (Galway City), 465

Galway Irish Crystal Heritage Centre (Galway City), 462

Galway Oyster Festival (Clarenbridge and Kilcolgan), 468

Galway Racecourse (Ballybrit), 463

Galway Races, 463

Galway Tribes, 456

Gap of Dunloe, 344, 358, 362

Gap of Mamore, 559

Gardens, best, 13

Garinish Island (Ilnacullin), 327

Garter Lane Arts Centre (Waterford City), 263

Garter Lane Arts Centre Theatre (Waterford City), 271

Gasoline, 666

The Gate (Dublin), 188

Gay and Lesbian Line Southeast (Waterford City), 262

Gays and lesbians, 667

Belfast, 596

Dublin, 113, 187

Galway City, 455

Waterford City, 262

Genealogy Advisory Service (Dublin), 163

Genealogy Center (near Wexford Town), 253

The George (Dublin), 187

George's Court (Waterford City), 267

George's Street Arcade (Dublin), 172

Giant's Causeway (Bushmills), 610

Giant's Ring (Ballynahatty), 599

Gift Venue (Ennis), 424

Glasnevin Cemetery (Dublin), 157–158

Glassillaun Beach, 476

Glasson Golf Hotel & Country Club, 490

Glebe House and Gallery (Church Hill), 550–551

Glenbeigh, 344

Glencolumbkille, 545–547

Glencolumbkille Folk Park, 545

Glendalough (County Wicklow), 204–205, 214

Glendalough Woollen Mills, 212

Glengesh Pass, 545

Glen Head, 547

Glenmacnass Waterfall, 205

Glenmalure Golf Club (Rathdrum), 212

Glenshane Pass, 643

Glenties (Na Gleanta), 549

Glenveagh National Park and Castle (Letterkenny), 88, 551

Glin Castle (Glin), 413

Golf, 92

Ards Peninsula, 601

Athlone and Birr area, 490

the Atlantic Highlands, 553

Belfast, 585

Connemara, 480

Cork City, 306

County Cavan, 528

County Clare, 425–426, 441–442

County Kilkenny, 281–282

County Mayo, 504

County Meath, 234

County Waterford, 268

County Wexford, 255

Derry, 634

Dingle, 380

Donegal Bay coast, 542

Dublin, 168–169

Fermanagh Lakelands, 650

near Galway City, 464

Inishowen Peninsula, 560

Kildare, 225–226

Killarney, 364

Kinsale, 314

Limerick, 409

Mourne Mountains, 620–621

North Antrim, 613

Portumna, 491

Ring of Kerry, 350

Sligo, 519

Sperrin Mountains, 643

Tralee, 388

Wicklow and Carlow, 212–213

Gollum's Precious (Dublin), 177

Gone Fishing (Dungarvan), 267

Good Vibrations (Belfast), 583

Gortin Glen Forest Park (Cullion), 641

Gougane Barra, 334

The Grand Canal Theatre (Dublin), 189

Grand Canal Way, 226

Grand Opera House (Belfast), 595

Granny's Bottom Drawer (Kinsale), 313

Grant Ancestral Home (Ballygawley), 641

Gray Line (Dublin), 57

Gray's Printers' Museum (Strabane), 641–642

The Great Famine, 40–42

Irish Agricultural Museum and Famine Exhibition (Wexford), 250

Great Saltee Island, 254

Greencastle (An Cáisleá Nua), 558

Greencastle Fort, 619

Greencastle Maritime Museum and Planetarium, 559–560

Green Holes of Doolin, 440

Greenlane Gallery (Dingle), 378

Green on Red (Dublin), 172

Grey Abbey (Greyabbey), 599–600

Greyhound racing

Cork City, 305

Dublin, 170–171

Galway City, 463

Tralee, 388

Grianan of Aileach, 559

Grogan's Castle Lounge (Dublin), 76

Guided Walks and Hikes, 89

Guild Hall (Derry), 632

Guinness Jazz Festival, 310

Guinness Storehouse (Dublin), 154

Gweedore (Gaoth Dobhair), 549

H

Halo (Galway City), 467

Harbour Thrills (Kilmore Quay), 255

Hartmann & Son Ltd. (Galway City), 466

Havana Browns (Cork City), 308

Hawk's Well Theatre (Sligo), 523

Hayes Cycle Shop (Wexford Town), 254

Hazelwood Sculpture Trail, 518

Headfort Golf Club (Kells), 234

The Helix (Dublin), 189

Henry VIII, 36

Hidden Ireland Tours (Dingle), 382

Hidden Trails, 94

High crosses, 236

Hiking and walking, 85–90, 426

the Atlantic Highlands, 553

Burren National Park, 433

Connemara, 480–481

Cork City, 306

County Mayo, 506

County Tipperary, 399

County Wexford, 255

Derry, 634

Dingle, 381–382

Donegal, 536

Hiking and walking (cont.)

Dublin, 170

Fermanagh Lakelands, 651

Kildare, 226

Killarney, 364–365

Kinsale, 315

North Antrim Coast, 613

northern Donegal Bay, 546

Ring of Kerry, 350

Sperrin Mountains, 643

Waterford City, 265

West Cork, 332

Wicklow, 213–214

Hill of Tara, 229–230

Hillview Sports Club (Clonmel), 399

Historical Walking Tours of Dublin, 167

History of Ireland, 26–46

the Celts, 29–31

coming of Christianity, 31–32

Cromwell, 36–37

The Easter Rebellion (1916), 42–43

first settlers, 27–29

The Great Famine, 40–42

the Norman invasion, 34–35

Penal Laws, 37–38

rebellion of 1798, 39

struggle for Home Rule, 42

tours, 57

the Troubles, 45–46

the Vikings, 32–34

Wolfe Tone and the United Irishmen, 39

World War II, 44–45

History of Northern Ireland, 563, 566–567, 578, 582

Hodges Figgis (Dublin), 174

Holden Leathergoods (Dingle), 378

Holidays, 51

Holy Trinity Cathedrals (Waterford City), 264

Holy Trinity Heritage Centre (Carlingford Heritage Centre), 235–236

Home Rule, 42

Honey Fitz Theatre (Patrickswell), 413

Hook Head, 254, 553

Hook Peninsula, 248

Horetown House (Foulksmills), 255

Horn Head (Corrán Binne), 550

Horseback riding, 92–94

the Atlantic Highlands, 553

Belfast, 585

Connemara, 480

County Leitrim, 528

County Tipperary, 398

Derry, 634

Dingle, 380

Dublin, 169

Fermanagh Lakelands, 650

Foulksmills, 255

near Galway City, 464

Kells, 234

Kildare, 226

Killarney, 364

Killotteran, 268

Limerick, 409–410

Mourne Mountains, 621

Sligo, 520

Sperrin Mountains, 643

Tralee, 388

Wicklow, 213

Horse-drawn carriage rides

Dublin, 166

Killarney, 358, 362–363

Horse racing

Cork City, 305–306

The Curragh, 222

Dublin, 171

Galway City, 463–464

Kilbeggan, 491

Killarney, 366

Tralee, 388

Hostelling International Northern Ireland, 87

Hotels, 660–665. See also Accommodations Index

best, 16–20

Howl at the Moon (Dublin), 185

Howth Castle, 196

Howth Castle Rhododendron Gardens, 195

Hugh Lane Municipal Gallery of Modern Art (Dublin), 148, 149

Huntington Castle (Clonegal), 205–206

Hunt Museum (Limerick), 406–407

Hurling, Dublin, 170

I

ILAC Centre (Dublin), 172

Ilnacullin (Garinish Island), 327

IMMA (Irish Museum of Modern Art; Dublin), 153–154

Inchagoill Island, 478

Inch Strand, 379

Inchydoney Beach, 330

Inishbofin, 477

Inisheer, 471

Inishmaan, 471

Inishmore, 471

Inishmurray, 516

Inishowen Peninsula, 557–561

Inistioge, 274

Inland Fisheries Ireland (Earl's Island), 450, 464, 480

Innisfallen, 356

Internet and Wi-Fi, 666

Inverin, 448

Ionad An Bhlascaoid Mhoir/The Blasket Centre (Dunquin), 377

Ionad Arann (Kilronan), 472

Irene & Nan's (Belfast), 593

Irish Agricultural Museum and Famine Exhibition (Wexford), 250

Irish Birding, 91

Irish City Tours (Dublin), 165

Irish Cycle Tours, 85

Irish Derby (The Curragh), 53, 222

Irish Famine Museum (Strokestown), 527

Irish Film Institute (Dublin), 153

Irish Landmark Trust (Northern Ireland), 588

Irish Linen Centre and Lisburn Museum, 604

Irish Museum of Modern Art (IMMA; Dublin), 153–154

Irish National Heritage Park (Wexford), 245–246

Irish National Stud (Kildare), 223

The Irish Pewtermill (Timolin-Moone), 223

The Irish President's House (Dublin), 141

Itineraries, suggested, 62–78

ancient Ireland, 73–75

Dublin pub-crawl, 75–78

for families, 68–70

for free and by public transit, 78–81

northern Ireland, 70–72

in 1 week, 62–66

in 2 weeks, 66–68

The Iveragh Peninsula, 341–354

getting there, 341

visitor information, 342

J

Jagoes Mill Pottery (Kinsale), 313

James Fort (Kinsale), 312

James II, 37–38

James Joyce Centre (Dublin), 161–162

James Joyce Museum (Sandycove), 192

Jameson Heritage Centre (Midleton), 323

Japanese Gardens (Kildare), 223

Jenny Vander (Dublin), 175–176

Jerpoint Abbey (Kilkenny City), 272, 278

Jerpoint Glass Studio (Stoneyford), 281

Jervis Shopping Centre (Dublin), 172

John Barry Monument (Wexford), 246

John Cleere's (Kilkenny City), 286

John F. Kennedy Arboretum (New Ross), 250, 252

John Hewitt Bar & Restaurant (Belfast), 594

John Molloy (Ardara), 552

Joyce, James

Anna Livia statue (Dublin), 155

James Joyce Centre (Dublin), 161–162

James Joyce Museum (Sandycove), 192

Ulysses, 46, 179, 192

Bloomsday Festival (Dublin), 53

K

Karma (Galway City), 467

Kate's Kitchen (Sligo), 514

Kayaking, 95

County Mayo, 505

Dunmore East Adventure Centre, 268

West Cork, 332

Kebble National Nature Reserve (Rathlin Island), 612

Kells, 229, 274

Kells Equestrian Centre, 234

Kells Priory, 279

Kelly's (Waterford City), 267

Kenmare, 342, 344

accommodations, 350–352

restaurants, 353–354

shopping, 349–350

Kenmare Bookshop, 349

Kenmare Druid Circle, 347–348

Kenmare Golf Club, 350

Kennedy's Pet Farm (Killarney), 361–362

Kenny's Book Shop and Galleries Ltd. (Galway City), 465

Kerry, County, 341–391

Kerry Bog Village Museum (Glenbeigh), 348

Kerry County Museum (Tralee), 387

Kerry Literary and Cultural Center (Listowel), 386

Kerry Way, 350, 360, 365

Kevin & Howlin (Dublin), 175

Kilbeggan Racecourse (Loughnagore), 491

Kilcolgan, 468

Kildare, County, 221–228

accommodations, 226–227

getting there, 222

outdoor pursuits, 225–226

pubs, 228

restaurants, 227–228

seeing the sights, 222–225

visitor information, 222

Kildare Heritage Centre, 222

Kildare Hotel & Country Club (K Club), 225

Kilfane Glen and Waterfall (Thomastown), 279

Kilkea Castle Golf Club (Castledermot), 225–226

Kilkenny, County, 272–287. See also Kilkenny City

accommodations, 282–284

attractions, 278–279

outdoor pursuits, 281–282

restaurants, 285–286

shopping, 280–281

Kilkenny Arts Festival, 54, 286

Kilkenny Castle, 276–277

Kilkenny City, 272–287. See also Kilkenny, County

drugstores, 275

emergencies, 275

exploring, 275–279

getting around, 275

getting there, 274

Internet access, 275

layout, 275

nightlife, 286–287

organized tours, 278

post office, 275

pubs, 287

shopping, 279–280

visitor information, 274

Kilkenny City Sightseeing Tour, 278

Kilkenny Crystal (Kilkenny City), 280

Kilkenny Design Craft Centre (Kilkenny City), 280

Kilkenny Golf Club (Glendine), 282

Kilkenny Library, 275

Kilkenny Taxi Service, 275

Killala (Cill Alaidh or Cill Ala), 498

Killaloe, 423

Killarney, 354–371

accommodations, 366–369

drugstores, 358

emergencies, 358

getting around, 357–358

getting there, 356–357

Internet access, 358

layout, 357

organized tours, 362

pubs, 370–371

restaurants, 370

seeing the sights, 358–363

shopping, 363–364

spectator sports, 365–366

visitor information, 357

Killarney Art Gallery, 363

Killarney Bookshop, 363

Killarney Christmas Market, 56

Killarney Golf & Fishing Club, 364

Killarney Lakes, 344

Killarney National Park, 88, 344, 356, 358, 360, 364–365

Killarney Racecourse, 366

Killarney SummerFest, 53

Killiney, 165

Killiney Hill, 170

Kill International Equestrian Centre, 226

Killorglin, 344

Killotteran Equitation Centre, 268

Killruddery House & Gardens, 206

Killybegs (Ceala Beaga), 545

Kilmainham Gaol Historical Museum (Dublin), 148–149

Kilmore Quay, 255

Kilmurray Bay at Minard, 379

Kiltealy, 247

Kincora, 423

Kingdom Greyhound Racing Track (Oakview), 388

Kingfisher Angling Centre (Castleconnell), 409

King John's Castle (Limerick), 404, 407–408

Kinsale, 309–320

accommodations, 316–317, 323–324

getting around, 310

getting there, 310

outdoor pursuits, 314–316

pubs, 319–320

restaurants, 317–319, 323–324

seeing the sights, 311–313

shopping, 313–314, 323

visitor information, 310

Kinsale Angling, 314

Kinsale Crystal, 314

Kinsale Golf Club, 314

Kinsale Museum, 311–312

Kinsale Silver, 314

Knappogue Castle & Walled Gardens (Quin), 423–424

Knockmealdown Drive, 394

Knocknarea, 516

Knockreer Estate (Killarney), 359

Knowth (near Drogheda), 230–231

Kozo Paper (Belfast), 583

Kremlin (Belfast), 596

Kylemore Abbey, 477

L

Lace House (Glencolumbkille), 545

Lahinch, 438

Lahinch Golf Club, 442

Lahinch Seaworld and Leisure Centre, 439

Lahinch Surf School, 442

Lake Isle of Innisfree, 518

Lake Muskry, 399

Lambert Puppet Theatre and Museum (Monkstown), 164, 165

Language, 667

Larchill Arcadian Garden (Kilcock), 224

The Lavit Gallery (Cork City), 303

Laytown and Bettystown Golf Club (Bettystown), 234

Leenane, 480

Legananny Dolmen (Slieve Croob), 600

Leinster, Mount, 247

Leinster House (Dublin), 160

Leitrim, County, 524

Leopardstown Race Course (Dublin), 171

Leprechauns, 408

Letterfrack, 475–476

Lettergesh, 476

Letterkenny (Leitir Ceanainn), 559

LGBT travelers. See Gays and lesbians

Liam Costigan (Kilkenny City), 280

Lillie's Bordello (Dublin), 185–186

Limavady, 632

Limerick Christmas Racing Festival, 56

Limerick City and County, 404–416

accommodations, 410, 414–415

getting around, 405–406

getting there, 405

nightlife, 411–412

pubs, 416

restaurants, 411, 415

seeing the sights, 406–408, 412–414

sports and outdoor pursuits, 409–410

visitor information, 405

Limerick City Gallery of Art, 408

Limerick Golf Club, 409

Limerick Museum, 408

Limericks, 406

Liquid (Galway City), 467

Lisburn, 604

Lisdoonvarna, 432, 436

Lisdoonvarna Matchmaking Festival, 54, 436

Lismore Castle, 266

Lismore Heritage Centre, 266

Listowel, 386

Literary Pub Crawl (Dublin), 167

Literary spots, best, 12–13

Little Killary Adventure Company (Leenane), 96, 479, 481

Little Skellig, 346

Locke's Distillery Museum (Kilbeggan), 489

The Long Hall (Dublin), 76–77

Loop Head, 441

Loughcrew (near Oldcastle), 231–232

Lough Derg, 426, 533–534

Lough Derg Drive, 423

Lough Gill, 518

Lough Gill Cruises (Sligo), 514

Lough Gill Drive, 518

Lough Gur, 413–414

Lough Gur Storytelling Festival, 413

Lough Inagh, 481

Lough Ine, 332

Lough Key Forest Park, 88, 526

Lough Neagh, 604

Lough Neagh Discovery Centre, 92, 604

Louise Kennedy (Dublin), 176

Louis Mulcahy Pottery (Ballyferriter), 378

Louth, County, 235–239

Lughnasa Fair (Carrickfergus Castle), 54

Lynch Memorial Window (Galway City), 462

Lynch's Castle (Galway City), 461

Lyric Theatre (Belfast), 595

M

McDaid's (Dublin), 77

Mac Eocagain/Galway Woollen Market (Galway City), 466

MacGillycuddy's Reeks, 365

McKernan Scarves (Tuamgraney), 424

Magee of Donegal Ltd., 535

Maherabeg, 379

Mahon Falls, 267

Mail, 667

Mainly Murder (Cork City), 306

Malahide Castle (Malahide), 195–196

Malin (Málainn), 558

Malin Head (Cionn Mhélanna), 558

The Mall (Armagh), 606

Mannion Cycles (Clifden), 479

Man of Aran (film), 472

Maps, 87

Marble Arch Caves (Florence Court), 649

The Market Bar (Dublin), 185

Market Cross (Kilkenny City), 280

Marlfield Lake Wildfowl Refuge, 398

Marsh's Library (Dublin), 161

Mary Gibbons Tours, 57, 202

Mary McDonnell Craft Studio (Slane), 234

May Day Races (Lisburn), 52

Mayo, County, 495–509

accommodations, 506–508

exploring, 497–503

getting there, 496–497

outdoor pursuits, 504–506

restaurants, 508–509

visitor information, 497

Mayo Angling Advice Centre (Foxford), 504

Meadows & Byrne (Cork City), 307

Meath, County, 229–235

Medieval banquets

County Clare, 430–431

Dunguaire Castle (Kinvara), 470

Galway City, 467–468

Melody Maker Music Shop (Donegal), 535

Merchant's Quay Shopping Centre (Cork City), 306

Merrion Square (Dublin), 164

Michael Collins Memorial Centre (Woodfield), 328

Michael Kennedy Ceramics (Sligo), 514–515

The midlands, 61, 523–529

Milk Bar Club (Belfast), 594

Milk Market (Limerick), 408–409

Millars Connemara Tweed Ltd. (Clifden), 479

Millennium Forum (Derry), 639

Millennium Spire (Dublin), 155

Millmount Museum and Martello Tower (Drogheda), 236

Minder Finders (Dublin), 165

Mint Bar (Dublin), 185

Mizen Head Signal Station, 328–329

Mobile phones, 667–668

The Model (Sligo), 512

Moll's Gap, 344

Molly Malone, 155

Monaghan's (Dublin), 178

Monasterboice (near Collon), 237

Money and costs, 668–669

Moone High Cross, 224

Moore Street Market (Dublin), 177

Moorlands Equestrian & Leisure Centre (Drumshanbo), 528

Mossy Woods Nature Trail, 360, 364

Mountaineering Council of Ireland, 87

Mount Brandon, 376, 381

Mount Juliet Golf and Country Club (Thomastown), 281

Mount Leinster, 247

Mountshannon, 423

Mount Stewart House (Newtownards), 600

Mount Temple Golf Club (Moate), 490

Mount Usher Gardens (Ashford), 206–207

Mourne Mountains, 617–624

Mourne Wall trek, 620

Moville (Bun an Phobail), 558

Moyle Way, 613

Moyne Abbey, 498–499

M. Quirke (Sligo), 515

M3 motorway, 230

Muckie, 90

Muckross Abbey (Killarney), 359

Muckross House and Gardens (Killarney), 359

Muckross Traditional Farms (Killarney), 359

Mucros Craft Centre (Killarney), 363

Muiredach Cross (Monasterboice), 236

Murlough Nature Reserve (near Dundrum), 619

Murphy's Cat Laughs Comedy Festival (Kilkenny Town), 53

Music, traditional Irish, 47–48

County Clare, 424, 431, 437, 441

Dublin, 167, 179

Galway City, 466

Limerick, 412

Yola Farmstead (Tagoat), 260

Music Festival in Great Irish Houses, 53

Muskry, Lake, 399

Mutton Lane Mural (Cork City), 303

MV Lily of Killarney Tours, 363

MV Pride of the Lakes Tours (Killarney), 363

N

Naran (An Fhearthainn), 549

National Botanic Gardens (Glasnevin), 196

National Concert Hall (Dublin), 189–190

National Folk Theatre of Ireland (Siamsa Tire; Tralee), 385, 391

National Gallery of Ireland (Dublin), 149

National Heritage Week, 54

National Library of Ireland (Dublin), 161

National Museum of Ireland: Archaeology (Dublin), 150

National Nature Reserves, 90

National parks, 88

National Photographic Archive (Dublin), 161

National Sea Life Centre (Bray), 165, 207

National Transport Museum of Ireland (Howth), 195

National Trust (Northern Ireland), 597

The National 1798 Visitor Centre (Enniscorthy), 252

Natural History Museum (Dublin), 150

Navan, 229

Navan Fort (Armagh), 606

Nenagh, 423

Nendrum Monastic Site (near Comber), 600

Ness Woods, 634

Newbridge House and Park (Donabate), 196–197

Newbridge Silverware, 224

Newcastle, 617

Newgrange, 229, 232

Newgrange Farm (near Slane), 232–233

Newman House (Dublin), 160

Newmarket-on-Fergus, 419

Newshound, 567

Newspapers and magazines, 669

Nicholas Mosse Pottery (Bennettsbridge), 281

Nicky Power Taxi (Kilkenny City), 275

1916 Rebellion Walking Tour (Dublin), 167

Nire Valley Drive, 394

No Alibis (Belfast), 584

Noble & Beggarman (Dublin), 174

Nora Barnacle House (Galway City), 462

North Bull, 168

North Coast and Castle Tour, 164

Northern Ireland (Ulster), 45–46, 60, 61, 563–653

area code, 570

business hours, 570

checklist for visiting, 568

currency, 570

electricity, 570

emergencies, 570

gas (petrol), 570

getting around, 569–570

history of, 563, 566–567, 578, 582

mail, 570

newspapers and magazines, 571

parking, 571

police, 571

safety, 571

suggested itinerary, 70–72

taxes, 571

telephone, 571

traveling to, 567–569

visitor information, 567

The northwest, 61

Number Twenty Nine (Dublin), 163

O

Oakland Antiques (Belfast), 584

O'Connell, Daniel, 40

Octagon Bar (Dublin), 185

O'Dalaigh Jeweller (Clifden), 479

Odyssey (Belfast), 595

Odyssey Complex (Belfast), 580

Offaly, County, 486

Old Abbey (Donegal), 534

Old Boat House Nature Trail, 364

Old Bushmills Distillery, 611

Old English Market (Cork City), 303–304

Old Head Golf Links (Kinsale), 314

The Old Jameson Distillery (Dublin), 155

Old Mellifont Abbey (Collon), 237

The Old Midleton Distillery/Jameson Heritage Centre, 323

Old Railway Line (Cork City), 306

Olympia (Dublin), 188

O'Mahoney's (Limerick), 409

O'Máille (O'Malley; Galway City), 466

O'Malley, Grace, 505

O'Neill, Hugh, 36

O'Neill's (Dublin), 78

Ormeau Baths Gallery (Belfast), 581

Ormond Castle (Carrick-on-Suir), 397

O'Sullivan Beara trail, 332

O'Tuama, Sean, 406

The O2 (Dublin), 190

Oughterard Golf Club, 480

Our Lady of Dublin, 157

Outdoor activities, 83–98

Outhouse (Dublin), 187

Oxegen (Punchestown Racecourse), 53

Oxfam Fair Trade Store (Dublin), 173

P

Padraig Pearse Cottage (Ros Muc), 448–449

Palm House & Belfast Botanical Gardens, 580–581

Pan Celtic Festival (County Donegal), 52

Panti Bar (Dublin), 187

Parke's Castle (Lough Gill Drive), 518–519

Parnell, Charles Stewart, 204

Passports, 669–670

Patrick's Bed, 481

Patrickswell, 413

Paulbeg Riding School (Shillelagh), 213

The Peacock (Dublin), 188, 189

Peatlands Park (The Birches), 606

Penal Laws, 37–38

The Pen Corner (Dublin), 174

Penrose Crystal (Waterford City), 267

Perryville House (Kinsale), 312

Petticoat Loose, 394

Phoenix Park (Dublin), 150, 164

Pier House Diving Centre (Kilmore Quay), 255

Pirate Adventure Park (Westport), 503

Police, 670

Political tours, 57

Poll na gColm, 440

Polo, Dublin, 171

Pontoon Bridge Hotel Fly Fishing School, 504

Pony trekking, 613

Portacloy, 506

Portaferry Castle, 600

Portarra Lodge (Moycullen), 480

The Porterhouse (Dublin), 78

Portmagee, 344

Portmarnock Golf Club (Dublin), 169

Portnoo, 549

Portumna, 423

Portumna Bay, 426

Portumna Castle, 489

Portumna Forest Park, 426, 489

Portumna Golf Club, 491

Potcheen, 421

Poulnabrone Dolmen, 435–436

Powerscourt Gardens, House Exhibition, and Waterfall (Enniskerry), 206–208

Powerscourt Townhouse Centre (Dublin), 171–172, 174

P. Powell and Sons (Galway City), 466

Project (Dublin), 188

Proleek Dolmen (Dundalk), 237–238

P. T. Murphy (Kilkenny City), 280

Pubs, 50. See also Pubs Index

best, 22–23

Puckane, 423

Puckane Crafts, 424

Puck Fair (Killorglin), 54, 344

Q

Queen's University (Belfast), 581

The Quiet Man (film), 495–496

Quills Woollen Market

Cork City, 307

Kenmare, 350

Killarney, 363

Macroom, 330

R

Raheen Woods, 426

Rathlin Island, 612

Raven Nature Reserve (near Wexford Town), 255

Rebellion of 1798, 39

Red Bank House (Skerries), 198

Red Hand of Ulster, 582

Reginald's Tower (Waterford), 264

Regions in brief, 60–61

Responsible travel, 56

Restaurants, 48–50. See also Restaurants Index

best, 20–22

Rhinestones (Dublin), 178

Richard Walsh Cycles (Woodquay), 464

Ring of Kerry, 342–354

Rí-Rá (Dublin), 186

River Barrow, 398

River Corrib, 463

River Lee, 306, 334

River Nore, 281, 398

River Suir, 398

River Tour (Dublin), 166

Robinson's Bar (Belfast), 594

Rockabill Island, 168

The Rock of Cashel, 397–398

Rogerstown and Malahide estuaries, 168

Rojo (Belfast), 584

RoolaBoola Childrens Arts Festival (Knock), 502–503

Roscommon, County, 523

Rose of Tralee Festival, 54, 385, 386

Rosguill (Ros Goill), 550

Ros Muc, 448

Rossaveal, 448

Ross Castle (Killarney), 359–360

Rosserk Abbey, 499

The Rosses, 550

Rossmore Country Pottery, 330

Rossnowlagh, 542

Rothe House (Kilkenny City), 277

Rotterdam (Belfast), 594

Roundstone, 475

Royal Dublin Golf Club (Dublin), 169

Royal Hibernian Way (Dublin), 172

Royal Society for the Protection of Birds, 91

Roycroft Cycles (Skibbereen), 331

Rugby, Dublin, 171

Russborough House (Blessington), 208, 209

Rusty Zip (Belfast), 584

S

Safety, 670

Sail Cork (Cobh), 332

Sailing, 95–96

Dingle, 380

Dunmore East Adventure Centre, 268

Kilmore Quay, 255

Kinsale, 314–315

West Cork, 332

St. Anne's Church (Cork City), 304

St. Audeon's Church (Dublin), 156

St. Brigid's Cathedral (Kildare), 224

St. Canice's Cathedral (Kilkenny City), 277

St. Colmcille's House (Kells), 233

St. Eugene's Cathedral (Derry), 632

St. Fiachra's Garden (Kildare), 223

St. Fin Barre's Cathedral (Cork City), 304

St. Francis Abbey Brewery (Kilkenny City), 277–278

St. George's Market (Belfast), 584

St. Helens Bay Golf Club (Kilrane), 255

St. Iberius Church (Wexford), 246

St. Kevin's Way, 214

St. Margaret's Golf & Country Club (Dublin), 169

St. Mary's Cathedral (Killarney), 360–361

St. Mary's Cathedral (Limerick), 408

St. Mary's Pro-Cathedral (Dublin), 156

St. Michan's Church (Dublin), 156–157

St. Mullin's Monastery (near New Ross), 209–210

St. Multose Church (Kinsale), 315

St. Nicholas's Collegiate Church (Galway City), 463

St. Patrick Heritage Centre/Down County Museum (Downpatrick), 603

St. Patrick's Cathedral (Dublin), 151–152

St. Patrick's Church of Ireland Cathedral (Armagh), 607

St. Patrick's Day Parades, 52

St. Patrick's Dublin Festival, 52

St. Patrick's Roman Catholic Cathedral (Armagh), 607

St. Patrick's Trian Visitor Complex (Armagh), 607

St. Patrick's Well (near Clonmel), 398

St. Peter's Church of Ireland (Drogheda), 238

St. Stephen's Green (Dublin), 164

St. Stephen's Green Centre (Dublin), 172

St. Teresa's Church (Dublin), 157

Salthill, 448

Sámas spa (Killarney), 367

Samhlaíocht Chiarrai/Kerry Arts Festival (Tralee), 52

Sandymount Strand (Dublin), 168

Sawel Mountain Drive, 643

Scattery Island, 440–441

Scilly (Kinsale), 312

Sciuird Archaeological Adventures (Dingle), 377–378

Scuba diving, 97–98

Ards Peninsula, 601

Connemara, 479

County Wexford, 255

Dingle, 380

West Cork, 331

Seafari Eco-nature Cruises and Seal-Watching Trips (Kenmare), 348

Sea kayaking, 95

County Mayo, 505

Dunmore East Adventure Centre, 268

West Cork, 332

The Seanchaí: Kerry Literary and Cultural Centre (Listowel), 387–388

Seasons, 51

Selskar Abbey (Wexford), 246

Senior travel, 670–671

Serendipity (Killarney), 363–364

Shandon Craft Centre (Cork City), 307

Shankill Road (Belfast), 582

Shannon Callows, 90

Shannon-Erne Waterway, 645

Shannon Golf Club, 425–426

Share Holiday Village (Lisnaskea), 645–646

Shaw Birthplace (Dublin), 162

Sheep's Head Loop, 325

Sheep's Head Way, 334

Siamsa Tire (National Folk Theatre of Ireland; Tralee), 385, 391

Síla Mag Aoide Designs (Sheila Magee; Roundstone), 479

Silent Valley Mountain Park, 620

Silent Valley Reservoir, 617

The Silver Strand, 450

The Skellig Experience (Valentia Island), 348–349

Skellig Islands, 347

Skellig Michael, 346

Skerries Mills (Skerries), 197–198

Slane Castle (near Slane), 233

Slea Head, 375

Slea Head Drive, 375

Slieve Bloom Way, 426

Slieve Donard, 617

Slieve League, 545, 546–547

Slievenamon, 399

Sligo Abbey, 512–513

Sligo County Museum, 513–514

Sligo Town, 509–523

accommodations, 520–521

getting around, 512

getting there, 510

layout, 510

nightlife, 522–523

outdoor pursuits, 519–520

restaurants, 521–522

seeing the sights

in Sligo Town, 512–514

in the surrounding countryside, 515–519

shopping, 514–515

visitor information, 510

Smoking, 671

Smyth's Irish Linens (Belfast), 584

Sneem, 346

Soccer, Dublin, 171

South Coast and Gardens Tour (Dublin), 165

The southeast, 60

The southwest, 60–61

SouthWestWalks Ireland Ltd., 89, 365

Sovereign Sailing (Kinsale), 315

Spaniard Inn (Kinsale), 312

Spanish Arch (Galway City), 461

Spanish Parade (Galway City), 461

Special events and festivals, 52–56

Sperrin Heritage Centre (Cranagh), 642

Sperrin Mountains, 640–644

Spiddal, 448–451

Sports Shop (Kilkenny), 281

SS Dunbrody Emigrant Ship (New Ross), 252–253

Staigue Fort, 346

Standún (Spiddal), 450

Steam Museum (Straffan), 224–225

The Steensons (Belfast), 584

The Steensons (Glenarm), 612

Stoneware Jackson (Bennettsbridge), 281

Strand (Derry), 639

Strandhill, 516

Strangford Lough, 598

Strokestown, 526–527

Strokestown Park House, Gardens, and Famine Museum, 526–527

Student travel, 671

Studio Donegal (Kilcar), 546

Suck Valley Way, 528

Suir Scenic Drive, 394

Summer Cove (Kinsale), 312–313

Surfdock Centre (Dublin), 170

Surfing

Donegal Bay coast, 542

Inishowen Peninsula, 560

Lahinch, 442

Sustainable tourism, 56

Swift, Jonathan, 152

Swimming

Clonmel, 399

Galway Bay coast, 450

Lough Derg, 426

Swiss Cottage (Cahir), 398

T

Taibhdhearc Theatre (Galway City), 468

Taipeis Gael (Glencolumbkille), 546

Taste of Ireland (Dublin), 53

Taxes, 671

Teampall na Slellig (Glendalough), 205

Telephones, 672

Temple Bar Book Market (Dublin), 177

Temple Bar Food Market (Dublin), 177

Temple Bar Gallery and Studios (Dublin), 154

The Temple Bar Summer Sensational (Dublin), 53–54

Tennis, Clonmel, 399

Terryglass, 423, 428

Thatch Bar (Ballyshannon), 544

Tholsel (Kilkenny City), 272

Thomas Dillon's Claddagh Gold (Galway City), 466

Thoor Ballylee (Gort), 469

Time zones, 672

Tintern Abbey (New Ross), 248, 253

Tipperary, County, 393–404

accommodations, 399–402

exploring the area, 394–398

getting there, 393

outdoor pursuits, 398

pubs, 403–404

restaurants, 402–404

visitor information, 393–394

Tipping, 672

Titanic Trail, 322

Tivoli (Dublin), 188

Toilets, 672

Tollymore Forest Park (Newcastle), 620

Tom Caldwell Gallery (Belfast), 584

Tone, Wolfe, 39, 251

statue of (Dublin), 155

Torc Mountain, 365

Torc Waterfall, 365

Torr Head Scenic Road, 609

Tours, 57

Tower Design Centre (Dublin), 174

Tower Museum (Derry), 632

Trabeg Beach, 379

Traditional Irish Musical Pub Crawl (Dublin), 167

Traditional Irish music, 47–48

County Clare, 424, 431, 437, 441

Dublin, 167, 179

Galway City, 466

Limerick, 412

Yola Farmstead (Tagoat), 260

Traditional Music Shop (Doolin), 441

Train travel, 658, 660

Tralee, 385–391

Tralee Golf Club, 388

Tralee Racecourse, 388

Traveling to Ireland and Northern Ireland, 655

Treasure Chest (Galway City), 465

Trim Castle (Trim), 233–234

Trinity College (Dublin), 152

Triskel Arts Centre (Cork City), 309

Tulle (Dublin), 176

Tullynally Castle and Gardens (Castlepollard), 490

12 Days of Christmas Market (Dublin), 56

Twice as Nice (Galway City), 465

The Twin Churches: Church of the Assumption and Church of the Immaculate Conception (Wexford), 246

Tynan's Walking Tours (Kilkenny City), 278

U

Ulster. See Northern Ireland

Ulster American Folk Park (Omagh), 642

Ulster Folk & Transport Museum (Cultra), 597–598

Ulster Hall (Belfast), 595

Ulster Museum (Belfast), 582–583

Ulysses (Joyce), 46, 179, 192

Bloomsday Festival (Dublin), 53

The United Irishmen, 38–39

University College, Cork, 304–305

University Concert Hall (Limerick), 412

University of Limerick Arena, 412

Upstairs (Limerick), 412

Utopia (Belfast), 584

V

Valentia, 344, 346

Valentia Island, 344

Vale of Avoca, 210

VBT, 84

Vee Gap, 394, 399

Vicar Street (Dublin), 189

Victorian Kitchen Walled Garden (Dublin), 150

Vikings, 32–34, 209, 235

Monasterboice (near Collon), 237

Viking Splash Tour (Dublin), 164, 166

Viking Tours (Athlone), 490

The Village (Dublin), 189

Vinegar Hill (Enniscorthy), 251

Visas, 673

Volunteer travel, 56

Voyager Internet Cafe (Waterford City), 262

W

Walking, 85–90, 426

the Atlantic Highlands, 553

Burren National Park, 433

Connemara, 480–481

Cork City, 306

County Mayo, 506

County Tipperary, 399

County Wexford, 255

Derry, 634

Dingle, 381–382

Donegal, 536

Dublin, 170

Fermanagh Lakelands, 651

Kildare, 226

Killarney, 364–365

Kinsale, 315

North Antrim Coast, 613

northern Donegal Bay, 546

Ring of Kerry, 350

Sperrin Mountains, 643

Waterford City, 265

West Cork, 332

Wicklow, 213–214

Walking Tours of Wexford, 247

Waltons, 173

Water, drinking, 673

Waterford, County, 260–272. See also Waterford City

accommodations, 268–271

getting there, 261–262

visitor information, 262

Waterford Castle Golf and Country Club (Ballinakill), 268

Waterford City, 260–267. See also Waterford, County

drugstores, 262

exploring, 263–267

getting around, 262

layout, 262

nightlife, 271–272

outdoor pursuits, 267–268

shopping, 267

Waterford City Walking Tour, 265

Waterford Crystal Factory, 264

Waterford Crystal Visitor Centre (Waterford City), 264–265

Waterford Gay and Lesbian Resource Centre, 262

Waterford Golf Club (Newrath), 268

Waterford Heritage Services, 265

Waterford Treasures at the Granary Museum, 265

Waterfront Hall (Belfast), 595

Watergate Theatre (Kilkenny City), 286

Watersports. See also specific sports

Castlewellan, 621

Connemara, 481

County Clare, 424–425

County Mayo, 506

Dublin, 170

Fermanagh Lakelands, 651

Inishowen Peninsula, 560

Kinsale, 315

Wicklow, 214

Waterstone's (Cork City), 306

Waterville, 346

Waterville Golf Links, 350

Waterworld (Castlegregory), 380

Wayfarers, 365

Weather, 51

The Weavers' Shop (Dingle), 379

Websites, best, 23–24

Wee House of Malin, 559

Wehrly Bros. Ltd. (Sligo), 515

Weir and Sons (Dublin), 178

Wellington Bridge, 248

The west, 61

West Cork, 325–339

accommodations, 334–338

exploring the region, 325–326

getting there, 325

outdoor pursuits, 330–332

restaurants, 338–339

seeing the sights, 326–329

shopping, 329–330

visitor information, 325

Western Way, 481

Westgate Design (Wexford), 253

Westgate Heritage Tower (Wexford), 246–247

Westmeath, County, 486

Westport (Cathair na Mairt), 498

Westport House, 503

Wexford, County, 241–260. See also Wexford Town

accommodations, 256–258

attractions, 247–253

sports and outdoor pursuits, 254–255

Wexford Arts Centre, 259

Wexford Coastal Path, 255

Wexford Festival Opera, 259

Wexford Opera House, 259

Wexford Silver, 254

Wexford Town, 241–254

accommodations, 257, 258

drugstores, 244

emergencies, 244

exploring, 244–247

getting around, 242, 244

getting there, 241–242

Internet access, 244

layout, 242

nightlife, 259–260

post office, 244

pubs, 260

restaurants, 258–259

shopping, 253–254

visitor information, 242

Wexford Wildfowl Reserve, 91, 247

Whale of a Time (Kinsale), 316

Whale-watching, Kinsale, 316

Whelan's (Dublin), 189

Whelan's Boat Hire (Killaloe), 425

Whitefriar Street Carmelite Church (Dublin), 157

White's Tavern (Belfast), 594–595

The Wicker Man (Belfast), 583, 584–585

Wicklow, County, 201–221

accommodations, 214–219

getting there, 202

outdoor activities, 212–214

pubs, 221

restaurants, 219–221

seeing the sights, 202

shopping, 211–212

visitor information, 202

Wicklow Arts Festival, 52–53

Wicklow Mountains National Park, 88, 210–211

Wicklow's Historic Gaol, 211

Wicklow Way, 85, 213–214

Wilderness Gorge, 399

William Britton & Sons (Donegal), 535

Wilson Ancestral Home (Strabane), 642

The Winding Stair (Galway City), 465

Windsurfing, 98

Cape Clear Island, 334

Dingle, 382

Dunmore East Adventure Centre, 268

Kinsale, 315

Women travelers, 673

Woodford, 423

The Workhouse (Dunfanaghy), 552

The Workhouse Museum and Library (Derry), 632–633

Workshops Collective (Belfast), 585

World Irish Dancing Championships (Killarney), 52

World War II, 44–45

Y

Yeats, William Butler

Drumcliff & Yeats's Grave, 517–518

Thoor Ballylee (Gort), 469

Yeats Memorial Building (Sligo), 514

Yeats Winter School (Sligo), 52

Yola Farmstead (near Wexford Town), 253, 260

Youghal Pottery (Foxhole), 323

Accommodations

Abbey Gate Hotel (Tralee), 388

Abbeyglen Castle (Clifden), 482

Abbey House (Thomastown), 283

Absolute Hotel & Spa (Limerick), 410

Adare Country House, 415

Adare Manor, 414

Aghadoe Heights Hotel & Spa (Killarney), 366, 367

Ahakista, 337

Aherne's Townhouse and Restaurant (Youghal), 324

Anne's Grove Gatelodge (Castleownroach), 337

An Oige Glendaloch International Hostel (Glendalough), 217

An Oige Youth Hostel (Cape Clear Island), 333

Aran View House (Doolin), 443

Ardeen House (Ramelton), 555

Ard na Breatha (Donegal), 538

Ard-na-Mara (Rossnowlagh), 543

Arnold's Hotel (Dunfanaghy), 555

Ashford Castle (Cong), 506–507

Aspect Hotel Kilkenny, 284

Avalon House (Dublin), 122

Avarest Bunratty, 427

Ballealy Cottage (near Belfast), 588

Ballinalacken Castle Country House (Doolin), 443

Ballinkeele House (Enniscorthy), 256

Ballycastle House (Newtownards), 601–602

Ballyduff House (Thomastown), 283

Ballygarry House Hotel (Tralee), 389

Ballyknocken Guesthouse Hotel & Cookery School (Ashford), 216

Ballylickey Manor House, 334

Ballyliffin Lodge, 560

Ballymaloe House (Midleton), 323–324

Ballymascanlon House Hotel (Dundalk), 238

Ballynahinch Castle (Recess), 481–482

Ballyseede Castle Hotel (Tralee), 389

Barberstown Castle (Straffan), 226

Barnacle's Quay Street House (Galway City), 459

The Bastion (Athlone), 492

Bayly Farm (Nenagh), 428

Bayview Hotel (Ballycotton), 324

Beach House (Newcastle), 622

Beech Hill Country House Hotel (Derry), 634

Bellair Cottage (Glenarm), 615

Belmore Court Motel (Enniskillen), 652

Benedict's (near Belfast), 589

Benners Hotel (Dingle), 383

The Bervie (Keel), 508

Blindgate House (Kinsale), 316

The Blue Haven (Kinsale), 316

Briers Country House (Newcastle), 622

Brogans Bar and Guesthouse (Trim), 235

BrookLodge & Wells Spa (Macreddin Village), 214

Brooks Hotel (Dublin), 119–120

Brosna Lodge Hotel (Banagher), 491

Bruckless House, 547

Bunratty Castle Hotel, 427

Burrendale Hotel and Country Club (Newcastle), 621

Bushmills Inn, 613–614

Buswells Hotel (Dublin), 118

Butler House (Kilkenny), 282

Butlers Town House (Dublin), 126

The Captain's House (Dingle), 384

Carlton Redcastle Hotel & Spa (Moville), 560–561

Cashel House Hotel, 482

Cashel Palace Hotel, 399–400

Castle Grove (Letterkenny), 554

Castle Leslie (Glaslough), 651–652

Castle Oaks House (Castleconnell), 410

City Hotel (Derry), 634–635

The Clarence (Dublin), 115

Clarence House (Derry), 635

The Clarion Hotel Dublin IFSC, 123

Clarion Hotel Limerick, 410

Cloch na Scíth/Kellough Thatched Cottage (Spiddal), 450

Clomantagh Castle (Freshford), 284

Clonalis House (Castlerea), 520

Clonard House (Wexford Town), 258

Clone House (Enniscorthy), 258

Clontarf Castle Hotel, 198

Connemara Coast Hotel (Furbo), 450–451

Connemara Gateway (Oughterard), 484–485

Conrad Hotel (Dublin), 120

The Courtyard Hotel (Leixlip), 227

Crescent Town House (near Belfast), 589

Cromleach Lodge (Castlebaldwin), 520

Culloden Estate and Spa (Belfast), 585–586

Currarevagh House (Clifden), 482–483

Da Vinci's Hotel (Derry), 635

Delphi Lodge (Leenane), 483

Derrynane Hotel (Caherdaniel), 351

Desmond House (Kinsale), 316

Devondell (Galway City), 459

Dingle Skellig Hotel, 382–383

Dolphin Beach House (Clifden), 483

Donegal Thatched Cottages (Cruit Island), 555–556

Doonmacfelim Guest House (Doolin), 443

Doonmore Hotel (Inishbofin), 485

Drom Caoin (Belmullet), 508

Dromoland Castle (Newmarket-on-Fergus), 426

Dufferin Coaching Inn (Killyleagh), 622

Dunraven Arms (Adare), 414

Dún Ulún House, 547

The Dylan (Dublin), 125–126

Earls Court House (Killarney), 368

Echo Lodge (Ballingarry), 414

Edenvale House (Newtownards), 602

Egan's House (Glasnevin), 198

Eliza Lodge (Dublin), 118

Enniscoe House (Ballina), 507

Errisbeg Lodge (Roundstone), 485

Europa Hotel (Belfast), 586

Everglades Hotel (Derry), 634

Fairview House (Killarney), 368

Farnham Estate Hotel (Cavan), 529

Fergus View (Corofin), 436–437

Ferrycarrig Hotel (Wexford Harbour Bridge), 256

Fitzgerald's Hotel (Bundoran), 543

Fitzgerald's Woodlands House Hotel (Adare), 415

Fitzpatrick Castle Hotel (Killiney), 192

The Fitzwilliam Hotel (Dublin), 120

Fort Royal Hotel (Rathmullan), 554

Fortview House (Goleen), 336

Four Seasons (Dublin), 124–125

Foxmount Country House (Waterford), 269

Fuchsia House (Killarney), 368–369

The G (Galway City), 456

Galley Head Lightkeeper's House (Galley Head), 337

Galway Harbour Hotel (Galway City), 457

Garnish House (Cork City), 297

Ghan House (Carlingford), 238

Glassdrumman Lodge Country House and Restaurant (Annalong), 622

Gleann Fia Country House (Killarney), 369

Glebe Country House (Bandon), 336

Glencairn Inn, 269

Glenlo Abbey Hotel (Galway City), 457

Glen Valley Farm (near Leenane), 485

Glenview Hotel (Delgany), 215–216

Glocca Morra (Ogonnelloe), 428–429

Grand Canal Hotel (Dublin), 126

Grand Hotel (Tralee), 389

Grange Lodge (Dungannon), 643–644

Greenmount House (Dingle), 383

Greenmount Lodge (Omagh), 644

Gregans Castle Hotel (Ballyvaughan), 436

The Gresham (Dublin), 123–124

The Gresham Metropole (Cork City), 296

Hanna's Close (Kilkeel), 623

Harvey's Point Country Hotel (Donegal), 536–537

Hayfield Manor Hotel (Cork City), 296

The Heron's Cove (Goleen), 336

Hotel Europe (Killarney), 366–367

Hotel Isaacs (Cork City), 297

Hotel Isaacs (Dublin), 124

Hotel Kilkenny, 282

Hotel Meyrick (Galway City), 457

The House Hotel (Galway City), 457–458

Illauntannig Island Cottage (Castlegregory), 390

The Imperial Hotel (Cork City), 296–297

Iskeroon (Caherdaniel), 352–353

Kathleen's Country House (Killarney), 369

Kelly's Resort Hotel (Rosslare), 256–257

Kenmare Bay Hotel & Resort, 351–352

Kerry Cottages (Castlegregory), 390–391

Kildare Hotel & Country Club (Straffan), 226

Kilgraney Country House (Carlow), 216

Kilkenny Ormonde Hotel (Kilkenny City), 283–284

Killarney Park Hotel, 367

Killarney Royal, 369

Killyleagh Castle Towers, 602

Kilmorey Arms Hotel (Kilkeel), 622–623

Kilmurvey House (Inis Mór), 473

Kippure Estate, 218

Lakeside Hotel, 427

Lawcus Farm Guesthouse (Stonyford), 284

Londonderry Arms Hotel (Carnlough), 614

Longueville House Hotel (Mallow), 334–335

Loop Head Lightkeeper's House (near Kibaha), 443–444

The Lord Bagenal (Leighlinbridge), 216–217

Lorum Old Rectory (Bagenalstown), 217

Lough Inagh Lodge (Recess), 483

Lough Rynn Castle (near Mohill), 528

McMenamin's Townhouse (Wexford Town), 258

Magherabuoy House Hotel (Portrush), 614

Malmaison Belfast, 586

Malone Lodge Hotel (near Belfast), 589

Man of Aran Cottage (Kilronan), 473

Manor House Country Hotel (Enniskillen), 652

Manor West Hotel (Tralee), 389

Maranatha Country House (Cork City), 297–298

Marlfield House (Gorey), 256

Meadowlands Hotel (Tralee), 390

The Meadows (Cushendall), 615

Menlo Park (Galway City), 458

Merchant Hotel (Belfast), 586

Merrion Hotel (Dublin), 122–123

Mill Park Hotel (Donegal), 537

Milltown House (Dingle), 383

The Morrison (Dublin), 123

Mount Falcon Castle (Ballina), 507

Mount Juliet Estate (Thomastown), 282

Mountshannon, 428

Moy House (Lahinch), 443

Muckross Park Hotel (Killarney), 368

The Newpark Hotel (Kilkenny), 283

Newport House Hotel (Newport), 507–508

Number 31 (Dublin), 120–121

The Old Bank House (Kinsale), 316–317

Old Ground Hotel (Ennis), 427

The Old Inn (Belfast), 588

The Old Presbytery (Kinsale), 317

Old School House Inn (Comber), 602

Park Hotel Kenmare, 350–351

Park House Hotel (Galway City), 458

Pax Guest House (Dingle), 383

Portaferry Hotel (Portaferry), 601

Premier Suites Stephen's Hall (Dublin), 121–122

Radharc An Chlair (Inis Oirr), 473

The Radisson Blu Hotel & Spa (Galway City), 458

Randles Court (Killarney), 369

Rathmullan House, 554

Rathsallagh House Hotel & Golf Club (Dunlavin), 215

Renvyle House, 483–484

Rhu-Gorse (Donegal), 538

Ritz-Carlton at Powerscourt (Enniskerry), 215

The River Lee Hotel (Cork City), 297

Riverside Park Hotel (Enniscorthy), 257

Rock Cottage (Barnatonicane), 335

Rolf's Country House (Baltimore), 336–337

Rosapenna Golf Hotel (Downings), 554–555

Ross Castle and House (Mount Nugent), 529

Roxford Lodge (Dublin), 127

Royal Marine Hotel (Dún Laoghaire), 192–193

Rusheen Lodge (Ballyvaughan), 437

The Saddlers House and the Merchant's House (Derry), 635–636

Sallyport House (Kenmare), 352

Sanda (Glenariff), 615

Sandhouse Hotel (Rossnowlagh), 543

Sea View House (Ballylickey), 335

Shalom B&B (Carlingford), 239

Shandon Hotel (Dunfanaghy), 555

Sheen Falls Lodge (Kenmare), 351

The Shelbourne (Dublin), 121

Shelburne Lodge (Kenmare), 352

Sherwood Park House (Ballon), 217

The Shores (Castlegregory), 390

Silver Springs Moran Hotel (Cork City), 298

Sleepzone (Galway City), 459

Sleepzone Townhouses (Galway City), 459

The Slieve Donard Spa and Resort (Newcastle), 621

Slieve Russell Hotel (Ballyconnell), 528–529

Sligo Park Hotel, 520–521

Solis Lough Eske Castle (Donegal), 537

Sperrin Clachan (Cranagh), 644

Tahilla Cove (Sneem), 352

Talbot Hotel Wexford (Wexford Town), 257

Tannery Townhouse (Dungarvan), 269

Tara Lodge (near Belfast), 589

Temple Bar Hotel (Dublin), 118–119

Temple Country House & Spa (Moate), 491

Temple House (Ballymote), 521

Ten Square (Belfast), 588

Termon House (Maghery), 556

Tinakilly Country House & Restaurant (Rathnew), 215

Tower Hotel (Derry), 635

The Tower Hotel (Waterford), 269

Travelodge (Derry), 636

Treacy's Hotel Spa & Leisure Club (Waterford), 268–269

Trim Castle Hotel, 234–235

Trinity Lodge (Dublin), 122

Tudor Lodge (Laragh), 217–218

Tully Cottage (Glenarm), 615

The Twelve (Barna), 451

25 Eustace Street (Dublin), 119

Tynte House (Dunlavin), 218

Vanilla Pod (Kells), 235

Walyunga (Kinsale), 317

Waterford Castle (Ballinakill), 268

Waterloo House (Dublin), 126

The Westbury Hotel (Dublin), 121

West Cork Hotel (Skibbereen), 335

Westgrove Hotel & Conference Centre (Naas), 227

The Westin (Dublin), 115, 118

White Horse Hotel (Derry), 636

Whitepark House (Ballintoy), 614

Wicklow Head Lighthouse, 218–219

Wicklow Way Lodge (Roundwood), 218

Wineport Lodge (Athlone), 491

Woodbrook House (Enniscorthy), 257

Zetland Country House Hotel (Cashel), 484

Restaurants

Achill Cliff House (Keel), 508–509

Aherne's Townhouse and Restaurant (Youghal), 324

Alden's (Belfast), 590

An Cafe Liteartha (Dingle), 384–385

An Fulacht Fia (Ballyvaughan), 437

An Port Mor (Westport), 509

Apartment (Belfast), 591

Ard Bia at Nimmo's (Galway City), 460

Ardmore Room Restaurant (Derry), 636

Avoca Handweavers Tea Shop (Avoca), 221

Backstage @ Bel's (Greystones), 219

Badger's (Derry), 638

Ballymore Inn, 227

Bang (Dublin), 137

Bansha House, 401–402

Beatrice Kennedy (Belfast), 590

Befani's (Clonmel), 403

Bishop's Buttery (Cashel), 400

Blackboard Bistro (Dublin), 137–138

Blairs Cove (Durrus), 338

The Blue Bull (Sneem), 353

The Blue Haven (Kinsale), 317

The Blue Haven (near Kilcar), 547

Bodega! (Waterford), 270–271

Boluisce (Spiddal), 451

Bon Appétit Restaurant and Brasserie (Malahide), 199

Boojum (Dublin), 139

Brannagans (Galway City), 460–461

Bricín (Killarney), 370

Brogan's (Ennis), 429

Brown's Bar and Brasserie (Derry), 637

Builín Blasta Café (Spiddal), 449

Bunratty Castle, 431

Busker Brownes (Galway City), 461

Café Mao (Dublin), 135–136

Café Paradiso (Cork City), 298–299

Café Sol (Kilkenny City), 285

Casino House (Kilbrittain), 338

Caviston's (Sandycove), 193

Cayenne (Belfast), 590

Chakra by Jaipur (Greystones), 219

Chapter One (Dublin), 138

The Chart House (Dingle), 384

The Cherry Tree Restaurant (Killaloe), 429

Chez Hans (Cashel), 402–403

Chez Youen (Baltimore), 338–339

Coast (Portrush), 616

Coopers Cottage (Bansha), 402

Copper and Spice (Limerick), 411

Cornucopia Wholefood Restaurant (Dublin), 136

Cosy Cottage (Moville), 561

Country Choice (Nenagh), 430

Crackpots (Kinsale), 318

The Crawford Café (Cork City), 299

Crookedwood House (Mullingar), 492

Cruise's Pub and Restaurant (Ennis), 429

Curragower Seafood Bar (Limerick), 411

D'Arcy's Oyster Bar and Grill (Kenmare), 353

Da Vinci's Grill Room (Derry), 637

Deane's (Belfast), 590–591

Dobbins (Dublin), 138

Doyle's Seafood Bar (Dingle), 384

The Duke Restaurant (Warrenpoint), 623

Dundrum House Hotel (Dundrum), 400–401

Eden (Dublin), 131

Ely Bar & Brasserie (Dublin), 138

Ely Gastro Pub (Dublin), 138

Ely Winebar (Dublin), 138

Epicurean Food Hall (Dublin), 139–140

Exchange Restaurant (Naas), 227

Fenn's Quay Restaurant (Cork City), 299

Fishy Fishy Café (Kinsale), 318–319

Fitzroy's (Derry), 638

Forde's Restaurant, 258

Franco's (Enniskillen), 652

Freddy's Bistro (Limerick), 411

The French Paradox (Dublin), 140–141

Gaby's Seafood Restaurant (Killarney), 370

Gaslight Grill (Derry), 637

G.B.C. (Galway Bakery Company), 461

Good Things Café (Durrus), 339

Goosers (Ballina), 429

Gordon Ramsey at Powerscourt (Enniskerry), 219–220

Govinda's (Dublin), 127, 130

Grangecon Café (Blessington), 221

Greenes (Cork City), 299–300

The Harbour (Donegal), 538

The Harbour Bistro (Portrush), 616

Hartleys (Dún Laoghaire), 193

Harty's Restaurant (near Midleton), 324

Hatter's Lane (Athlone), 493

The Helm (Westport), 509

Heron's Cove (Creevy), 543–544

The Heron's Cove (Goleen), 339

High Moors (Clifden), 485–486

Hotel Minella (Clonmel), 400

Idaho Cafe (Cork City), 300

Irish Film Centre Cafe Bar (Dublin), 134

The Ivory Tower (Cork City), 298

Jacob's on the Mall (Cork City), 300

Jacques (Cork City), 299

James Street South (Belfast), 591

Jim Edwards (Kinsale), 318

John Hewitt Bar & Restaurant (Belfast), 591–592

Jola's (Kinsale), 318

Juice (Dublin), 132

Kealy's Seafood Bar (Greencastle), 561

Kilcoran Lodge Hotel (Cahir), 401

Kilkenny Design Centre Restaurant, 286

Kilmaneen Farmhouse (Newcastle), 402

Kirwan's Lane (Galway City), 459

Kitty Kelly's (Killybegs), 548

Knappogue Castle (Quin), 431

Knockmuldowney (Collooney), 521

La Bella Vita (Westport), 509

La Boheme (Waterford), 270

La Mère Zou (Dublin), 135

Lantern House (Ogonnelloe), 430

The Larder (Dublin), 134

La Sosta (Derry), 636

Lautrecs (Kilkenny City), 285–286

L'Ecrivain, 137

Left Bank Bistro (Athlone), 492

Lemon (Dublin), 136–137

Leo Burdock's (Dublin), 130

Les Frères Jacques (Dublin), 131

L'Gueuleton (Dublin), 131–132

Lime Tree (Kenmare), 353

The Loft Bar & Grill (Howth), 199

Londonderry Arms Hotel (Carnlough), 616

Lord Bakers (Dingle), 384

Lord Edward (Dublin), 127

McDonagh's (Galway City), 461

The Malt House (Galway City), 459–460

Mange 2 (Derry), 637

Mange 2 (Wexford), 258–259

Marble City Bar and Tea Rooms (Kilkenny City), 286

Mary Ann's (Skibbereen), 339

Max's Wine Bar Restaurant (Kinsale), 318

Mellon Country Hotel (Omagh), 644

Mermaid Café (Dublin), 132

The Mews (Baltimore), 339

The Mill Restaurant (Figart), 556

Mobarnane House (Fethard), 400

Moira's Restaurant at Cromleach Lodge (Ballindoon), 522

Molly's Bar and Restaurant (Killaloe), 430

Montmartre (Sligo), 522

Moran's Oyster Cottage (Kilcolgan), 470

The Motte (Inistioge), 285

Mr. Bumbles (Clonmel), 402, 403

Mulcahy's (Kenmare), 353

The Mustard Seed at Echo Lodge (Ballingarry), 415

Nick's Warehouse (Belfast), 591

Nosh (Dalkey), 193

O'Brien's American Steakhouse & Grill (Derry), 638

O'Dowd's Seafood Restaurant (Roundstone Harbour), 486

101 Talbot (Dublin), 139

One Pico (Dublin), 134

Packie's (Kenmare), 354

Paddy Burke's (Clarenbridge), 470–471

Park Room Restaurant (Galway City), 460

Pastis Bistro (Lismore), 270

Peploe's (Dublin), 135

The Pig's Ear (Dublin), 132

Poppies Country Cooking (Enniskerry), 220

Prego (Kenmare), 354

Primrose Bar and Restaurant (Ballynahinch), 602

Purple Heather (Kenmare), 354

Quay Co-op (Cork City), 300

Quaywest Wine Bar & Restaurant (Derry), 638

Queen of Tarts (Dublin), 131

The Ramore Oriental Restaurant (Portrush), 616

The Red Bank (Skerries), 199

The Red Door (Fahan), 561

Red Panda (Belfast), 592

Restaurant Patrick Guilbaud (Dublin), 137

Roly's Bistro (Dublin), 140

Roundwood House (near Mountrath), 401

Roundwood Inn (Roundwood), 220–221

Sabor Brasil (Dublin), 135

Satchmo's Restaurant (Derry), 637

Sea Salt (Newcastle), 623

Silken Thomas (Kildare), 228

A Slice of Life (Athlone), 493

Smuggler's Inn Country House (Giant's Causeway), 616

Snaffles Brasserie (Glaslough), 652–653

Soup Dragon (Dublin), 140

Springsteen's Bar & Grill (Wexford Town), 259

Station House Restaurant (Clifden), 486

Steam Coffee House (Clifden), 486

The Strand (Ballyliffin), 561

The Strand Seafood Restaurant (Dunmore East), 271

The Strawberry Tree (Macreddin Village), 220

Sweeney's Public House Wine Bar (Portballintrae), 616

The Tankard (Fenit), 391

The Tannery (Dungarvan), 270

The Tea Room (Dublin), 132

Tinakilly Country House Hotel (Rathnew), 220

Tobergal Lane (Sligo), 522

Treyvaud's (Killarney), 370

Tulsi (Ennis), 430

Vina Mara (Galway City), 460

The Water Garden (Thomastown), 286

Water's Edge (Rathmullan), 556

The Weaver's Loft (Donegal), 538

Westgate Design (Wexford Town), 259

White's Tavern (Belfast), 592

The Wild Geese (Adare), 415

Winding Stair (Dublin), 139

Zuni (Kilkenny City), 285

Pubs

An Bodhran (Cork City), 307

An Droichead Beag/The Small Bridge (Dingle), 385

An Pucan (Galway City), 466

An Spailpin Fánac (The Migrant Worker; Cork City), 307

Antique Tavern (Wexford Town), 260

The Auld Dubliner (Dublin), 182

Biddy O'Barnes (Barnesmore), 539

Blakes of the Hollow (Enniskillen), 653

Bleeding Horse (Dublin), 184

Brazen Head (Dublin), 182

The Bulman (Kinsale), 319

Caislean Ui Cuain (The Castle Inn; Kilkenny City), 287

Capitol, 184

The Clarendon (Derry), 639

The Coach House (Roundwood), 221

The Cobblestone (Dublin), 183

Crane Bar (Galway City), 466

The Crossbar (Gurteen), 522–523

The Crown Bar (Wexford Town), 260

Crown Liquor Saloon (Belfast), 593

Dakota (Dublin), 184

Daltons (Kinsale), 319

Davy Byrnes, 179

Derragarra Inn (Butlersbridge), 529

Dick Mack's (Dingle), 385

Doheny & Nesbitt (Dublin), 180

Eamon Langton's (Kilkenny City), 287

Finnegan's (Annacotty), 416

Front Door (Galway City), 467

The George Inn (Prosperous), 228

Gerry Chawkes (Clonmel), 403

Gertie Browns (Athlone), 493

The Greyhound (Kinsale), 319

Grogan's Castle Lounge (Dublin), 180–181

Gus O'Connor's Pub (Doolin), 445

Harbour Bar (Killybegs), 548

Harbour Inn (Annalong), 624

Harty's Lounge Bar (Tralee), 391

The Hibernian (Cork City), 307

Jack Meades (Halfway House), 271

Jacob Halls (Kilkeel), 624

J. McCollam (Cushendall), 617

John Henchy & Sons (Cork City), 308

Johnnie Fox's (Rathdrum), 221

Killarney Grand, 370

Killeen's (Shannonbridge), 493

Kirby's Olde Brogue Inn (Tralee), 391

Kyteler's Inn (Kilkenny City), 272, 287

Lakeside Centre (Dunlewey), 557

The Laurels (Killarney), 370

Limelight & Katy Daly's (Belfast), 594

The Locke (Limerick), 411

The Long Hall (Dublin), 181

The Long Valley (Cork City), 308

Lord Kinsale (Kinsale), 319–320

McDaid's (Dublin), 181

McGann's (Doolin), 445

Marble City Bar and Tea Rooms (Kilkenny City), 287

Mary Ann's (Skibbereen), 339

The Meetings (Avoca), 221

The Merry Ploughboy (Dublin), 183

M. McBride's (Cushendun), 617

Molly Darcy's (Killarney), 370

The Moone High Cross Inn, 228

Moran's (Woodford), 493

Morning Star (Belfast), 594

The Munster (Waterford City), 272

Murty Rabbitt's (Galway City), 467

Nancy's (Ardara), 557

Neary's (Dublin), 181–182

Oak Tavern (Ferrycarrig), 260

O'Connor's (Killarney), 371

O'Donoghue's (Dublin), 183

O'Flaherty's (Dingle), 385

The Olde Castle Bar (Donegal), 539

Oliver St. John Gogarty (Dublin), 183

O'Malley's (Portstewart), 617

O'Neill's (Dublin), 182

O'Shaughnessy's (Glin), 416

Oyster Tavern (Tralee), 391

Paddy's Pub (Terryglass), 432

Pat's Bar (Belfast), 594

The Percy French (Newcastle), 624

P. McCormack and Sons (Dún Laoghaire), 193–194

The Porterhouse (Dublin), 182

The Purty Kitchen (Dún Laoghaire), 194

The Quays (Galway City), 467

Railway Bar (Clonmel), 403

River Inn (Derry), 639

Sandino's Cafe Bar (Derry), 639

The Schooner Inn (Donegal), 539

Sean's Bar (Athlone), 493

Sinnotts (Dublin), 184

The Spaniard Inn (Kinsale), 320

Stag's Head (Dublin), 182

Stanford's Village Inn (Dromahair), 523

T. & H. Doolan (Waterford City), 272

Tatler Jack (Killarney), 371

The Thatch (Ballisodare), 523

Tierney's (Clonmel), 404

Tynan's Bridge House (Kilkenny City), 287

Vaughn's (Kilfenora), 437

Vintage Club (Limerick), 411

Whelan's (Dublin), 184

The White House (Kinsale), 320

W.J. South's (Limerick), 411–412

The Wren's Nest (Wexford Town), 260

Chap Title

Accommodations Index

Accommodations Index

Restaurant Index

Restaurant Index

Pubs INdex

Photo Credits

Photo Credits

p. i: © Wojtek Buss / AGE Fotostock; p. iii, iv, v, vi: © Anthony Woods; p. 1: © nagelestock.com / Alamy; p. 2: © Photolibrary; p. 3: © Dennis Flaherty / Alamy; p. 6: © Michael McLaughlin; p. 7, top: © Grianne Flynn; p. 7, bottom: © Arco Images GmbH / Alamy; p. 8: © The Irish Image Collection / AGE Fotostock; p. 9: © Declan Masterson; p. 11, left: © Anthony Woods; p. 11, right: © Adafir / Alamy; p. 12: © Anthony Woods; p. 13: © Grianne Flynn; p. 14: © Michael McLaughlin; p. 15: © Mira / Alamy; p. 16: © The Irish Image Collection / AGE Fotostock; p. 17, top: © Courtesy Park Hotel Kenmare; p. 17, bottom: © Courtesy Gregans Castle; p. 19: © Courtesy Temple House; p. 20: © Anthony Woods; p. 21, left: © Courtesy Ballymaloe House, Photo by Keewi Photography; p. 21, right: © Stefano Lunardi / Marka / AGE Fotostock; p. 22: © Anthony Woods; p. 23, left: © Michael McLaughlin; p. 23, right: © Michael McLaughlin; p. 23, bottom: © Stephen Rafferty / Eye Ubiquitous / Alamy; p. 25: © Stephen Emerson / Alamy; p. 26: © Courtesy the Merchant Hotel; p. 29: © Michael McLaughlin; p. 30: © Michael McLaughlin; p. 31: © Ancient Art & Architecture Collection Ltd / Alamy; p. 35: © Victor Ginesi; p. 39: © 19th era / Alamy; p. 42: © An Post/Maxwell Photography; p. 44, left: © Carl Mydans//Time Life Pictures/Getty Images; p. 44, right: © Barry Batchelor / AFP / Newscom; p. 47: © Vivi Film/Cartoon Saloon / The Kobal Collection; p. 48: © James Horan; p. 49: © Stefano Lunardi / Marka / AGE Fotostock; p. 50: © Stephen Rafferty / Eye Ubiquitous / Alamy; p. 58: © The Irish Image Collection / AGE Fotostock; p. 62: © James Horan; p. 64: © Anthony Woods; p. 65: © Anthony Woods; p. 67: © Michael McLaughlin; p. 68: © Michael McLaughlin; p. 72: © Victor Ginesi; p. 73: © Michael McLaughlin; p. 76, left: © James Horan; p. 76, right: © Anthony Woods; p. 78: © James Horan; p. 80: © Richard Cummins / The Irish Image Collection / AGE Fotostock; p. 81: © Anthony Woods; p. 82: © Peter McCabe / The Irish Image Collection / AGE Fotostock; p. 84: © Anthony Woods; p. 86: © Gareth McCormack / Lonely Planet Images; p. 87: © Hon F. Lau / Alamy; p. 89, top: © Michael McLaughlin; p. 89, bottom: © Grianne Flynn; p. 92: © Michael McLaughlin; p. 93: © Michael McLaughlin; p. 98: © Michael McLaughlin; p. 99: © Anthony Woods; p. 105: © James Horan; p. 106, top: © James Horan; p. 106, bottom: © James Horan; p. 107: © James Horan; p. 141: © The Print Collector / Alamy; p. 145: © James Horan; p. 146: © James Horan; p. 147, left: © James Horan; p. 147, right: © James Horan; p. 148, left: © Anthony Woods; p. 148, right: © Jim Cole / Alamy; p. 151, top: © James Horan; p. 151, bottom: © Anthony Woods; p. 153: © James Horan; p. 154, left: © James Horan; p. 154, right: © Howard Davies / Alamy; p. 157: © James Horan; p. 159: © An Post/Maxwell Photography; p. 160: © James Horan; p. 162: © Anthony Woods; p. 166: © James Horan; p. 169: © Anthony Woods; p. 171: © Anthony Woods; p. 172: © James Horan; p. 176: © James Horan; p. 177: © James Horan; p. 178: © James Horan; p. 180: © Anthony Woods; p. 183: © Anthony Woods; p. 184: © Anthony Woods; p. 185: © Courtesy of The Clarence Hotel; p. 188: © Courtesy Abbey Theatre, Photo by Ros Kavanagh; p. 192: © Anthony Woods; p. 195: © Anthony Woods; p. 196: © Anthony Woods; p. 197, top: © Anthony Woods; p. 197, bottom: © Anthony Woods; p. 200: © Anthony Woods; p. 202: © Anthony Woods; p. 204: © Anthony Woods; p. 207: © Anthony Woods; p. 209: © Anthony Woods; p. 210: © Anthony Woods; p. 211: © Anthony Woods; p. 213, top: © Anthony Woods; p. 213, bottom: © Anthony Woods; p. 223: © Anthony Woods; p. 231: © Jim Cole / Alamy; p. 232: © Declan Masterson; p. 237: © Anthony Woods; p. 240: © Anthony Woods; p. 244: © Anthony Woods; p. 246: © Anthony Woods; p. 252, top: © Anthony Woods; p. 252, bottom: © Anthony Woods; p. 254: © Anthony Woods; p. 261: © David Lyons / Alamy; p. 266: © Richard Cummins / SuperStock; p. 274: © K. Loos / Arco Images GmbH / Alamy; p. 276: © Anthony Woods; p. 279: © isifa Image Service s.r.o. / Alamy; p. 280: © J. De Meester / Arco Images GmbH / Alamy; p. 281: © Kevin Schafer / Alamy; p. 288: © Christopher Gallagher / The Garden Picture Library / Alamy; p. 290: © Adina Tovy / Robert Harding Picture Library Ltd / Alamy; p. 301: © Anthony Woods; p. 302: © Anthony Woods; p. 303, top: © Rick Senley / Loop Images / Photolibrary; p. 303, bottom: © Anthony Woods; p. 304: © Richard Cummins / The Irish Image Collection / AGE Fotostock; p. 309: © Christian Handl / Imagebroker / AGE Fotostock; p. 311: © Anthony Woods; p. 313: © Liam White / Alamy; p. 315: © Anthony Woods; p. 319: © Michael Leonhard / Alamy; p. 321: © Courtesy Ballymaloe Cookery School; p. 322: © Anthony Woods; p. 323, left: © Enzo Cositore / Alamy; p. 323, right: © Courtesy Ballymaloe House, Photo by Keewi Photography; p. 327: © Anthony Woods; p. 330: © Anthony Woods; p. 331: © The Irish Image Collection / SuperStock ; p. 340: © H. & D. Zielske / Look / Alamy; p. 342: © Anthony Woods; p. 348: © David Lyons / Alamy; p. 349: © David Lyons / Alamy; p. 350: © Anthony Woods; p. 354: © Anthony Woods; p. 356: © Anthony Woods; p. 358: © Andrew McConnell / Alamy; p. 366: © Courtesy Park Hotel Kenmare; p. 371: © Anthony Woods; p. 372: © Anthony Woods; p. 376, top: © Courtesy Dingle Oceanworld Aquarium; p. 376, bottom: © Anthony Woods; p. 378: © Anthony Woods; p. 379: © Anthony Woods; p. 380: © Gareth McCormack / Alamy; p. 381: © Lilian Henglein / Cultura RM / Alamy; p. 382: © Frank van der Zwan / Alamy; p. 387: © Anthony Woods; p. 392: © Ingolf Pompe / Look / AGE Fotostock; p. 396: © Avico Ltd / Alamy; p. 397: © Anthony Woods; p. 404: © Anthony Woods; p. 418: © nagelestock.com / Alamy; p. 420: © Michael McLaughlin; p. 432: © Robert Knight/ Eye Ubiquitous / Alamy Images; p. 433: © Michael McLaughlin; p. 434, top: © Michael McLaughlin; p. 434, bottom: © Michael McLaughlin; p. 435: © Courtesy Aillwee Caves; p. 438: © Michael McLaughlin; p. 440, left: © Michael McLaughlin; p. 440, right: © Michael McLaughlin; p. 442, top: © Michael McLaughlin; p. 442, bottom: © Courtesy Lahinch Surf School; p. 444: © Blaine Harrington III / Alamy; p. 446: © The Irish Image Collection / AGE Fotostock; p. 448: © Michael McLaughlin; p. 452: © Michael McLaughlin; p. 454: © Michael McLaughlin; p. 456: © Courtesy Volvo Ocean Race, Photo by Rick Tomlinson; p. 463: © The Irish Image Collection/Design Pics/Newscom; p. 467: © Steppenwolf / Alamy Images; p. 468: © Courtesy Druid Theatre, Photo by Robert Day; p. 469: © Michael McLaughlin; p. 470: © Michael McLaughlin; p. 471: © Michael McLaughlin; p. 474: © Michael McLaughlin; p. 475: © Michael McLaughlin; p. 476: © Michael McLaughlin; p. 480: © Alberto Paredes / Alamy; p. 487: © Grianne Flynn; p. 494: © The Irish Image Collection / AGE Fotostock; p. 496: © David Lyons / Alamy; p. 498: © Michael McLaughlin; p. 499, top: © Michael McLaughlin; p. 499, bottom: © Michael McLaughlin; p. 500: © Michael McLaughlin; p. 503: © The Irish Image Collection / AGE Fotostock; p. 505: © Michael McLaughlin; p. 506: © Gareth McCormack / Alamy; p. 514: © Michael McLaughlin; p. 515: © Michael McLaughlin; p. 516: © Michael McLaughlin; p. 517: © Michael McLaughlin; p. 518: © Michael McLaughlin; p. 519: © Michael McLaughlin; p. 527: © Courtesy Stroketown Park; p. 530: © David Lyons / Alamy; p. 532: © Grianne Flynn; p. 534: © Grianne Flynn; p. 536: © Grianne Flynn; p. 537: © Grianne Flynn; p. 538: © Grianne Flynn; p. 544: © Michael McLaughlin; p. 548: © Grianne Flynn; p. 551: © Grianne Flynn; p. 558: © Tony Lilley / Alamy; p. 559: © Michael Foyle / Alamy; p. 562: © Britain on View / Photolibrary; p. 572: © Victor Ginesi; p. 574: © Victor Ginesi; p. 576: © Victor Ginesi; p. 577: © Victor Ginesi; p. 579: © Victor Ginesi; p. 580: © Steffan Hill / Alamy; p. 581: © Peter Evans / Alamy; p. 582: © Courtesy National Museums Northern Ireland; p. 593: © H & D Zielske / Look-foto / Photolibrary; p. 595: © Victor Ginesi; p. 596: © Victor Ginesi; p. 598: © Victor Ginesi; p. 608: © J Orr / Alamy; p. 609, top: © JoeFox / Alamy; p. 609, bottom: © Victor Ginesi; p. 610: © Ken Gibson / Photolibrary; p. 611: © Victor Ginesi; p. 618: © The Irish Image Collection / SuperStock ; p. 626: © JoeFox CountyDerry / Alamy; p. 627: © Victor Ginesi; p. 630: © Victor Ginesi; p. 641: © Rob Whitworth / Alamy; p. 646: © Grianne Flynn; p. 649: © Grianne Flynn; p. 654: © Eoin Clarke / Lonely Planet Images.

Photo Credits

Notes

Dublin Side Trips, Ireland: Frommer's® Shortcuts

Table of Contents

Around Dublin

County Wicklow & County Carlow

Russborough House: A Life of crime!

County Kildare: Ireland’s Horse Country

St. Brigid: Early feminist

Counties Meath, Louth & the Boyne River Valley

Modern motorway Changes Ancient Tara Landscape

High Crosses: icons of Ireland

The Best of Ireland

The best Picture-Postcard Towns

The best Natural Wonders

The best Castles

The best Of Ancient Ireland

The best Early Christian Ruins

The best Literary Spots

The best Gardens

The best Family Activities

The best Active Vacations

The best Driving Tours

The best Luxury Accommodations

The best Moderately Priced Accommodations

The best Budget Accommodations

The best Restaurants

The best Pubs

The best Websites

Ireland In Depth

Ireland Today

The Making of Ireland

An Bhfuil Gaeilge Agat? (Do You speak Irish?)

Ireland in Popular Culture

Eating & Drinking in Ireland

When to Go

Responsible Travel

Tours

Planning Your Trip to Ireland

Getting There

Getting Around

Road Rules in a nutshell

Money-Saving Rail & Bus passes

Tips on Accommodations